no-start after washing engine bay
brett at cloud9.net
Mon Sep 5 01:23:09 EDT 2005
On Sep 4, 2005, at 11:57 PM, Huw Powell wrote:
> Well, apart from the whole "undo, clean and dielectric gel" routine
> on all connectors... from the comment above I'd say, pop off the
> dist. cap and look at it and the rotor. Methinks they won't be in
> stock condition any mmore.
There was some water in it, but that's not the shocker (har har).
You see, I have magnecore wires. They never go bad. The same is not
true for distributors and rotors. And as I looked at the
distributor, with thick black soot all inside, the terminals
corroded, and the center 'button' that rides the rotor is completely
...I realized I couldn't remember having replaced the distributor or
rotor. Ever. In 8 years and 90,000 miles. I might have done it a
year or two after getting the car, but I'm not sure.
Well, this explains the slightly rough idle. And the occasional
bucking when the engine's cold. And the less-than-consistent
operation under boost. And the occasional slightly jerky driving in
lower gears (sorta like a bad/dead O2 sensor, only 'faster'.) I'm
astounded the car ran at all. This also might explain why the dyno
numbers many months ago were slightly less than expected; 214-217whp
peak (IA 3+). All of which I kept meaning to look into, but never
got around to.
So, I did remember having bought a replacement cap many years ago.
After 2 minutes rummaging around in the attic, I hold in my hand a
pristine 3B distributor cap. A little work with a dremel and some 3M
marine polish, and the rotor will be 'good enough' to not tear the
center button on the cap to pieces before I can get a new rotor (the
current rotor's surface looks like sandpaper, from getting blasted as
part of a spark gap, most likely).
I wonder if my city mileage will climb out of the high 17's too? :-)
"They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary
safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin
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