Hot start-wont start

Steve Hauptmann vwaudiporschefan at
Tue Aug 1 16:18:57 EDT 2006

FWIW, I had a similar experience. Did the same to my injectors, replaced the pump and FPR.....still had an occasional no startcondition that seemed to me to be random. Turns out the braided S/S line going to the FPR was leaking...and intermittently at that. It was leaking where the braided line joins the end...and I presume, depending on vibration etc., it created an intermittent leak. 
  Steve Hauptmann

Peter Schulz <pcschulz at> wrote:
  Ok, here's a good one for the brain trust..

I've replaced the pump with the new style one, replaced all the 
brittle vent hoses around the pump, replaced the FPR and had the 
injectors cleaned, balanced and blue printed by Marren motorsports.

Still have a hot start issue...

I'm considering figuring out how to put a supplemental inline check 
valve on the pump...


At 01:36 PM 8/1/2006, Phil Rose wrote:
>At 12:21 PM -0400 8/1/06, James Miller wrote:
> >Hello,
> >
> >I'm having issues with the car starting once it is warm.
> >this is what is happening
> >1.the car starts fine after sitting since the day before
> >2. I drive 5 miles and stop and eat lunch
> >3. when I return after 45 min. the car didn't start on the first try but
> >fired up on the second try (it was about 80 degrees and the car was in the
> >sun)
>etc., etc.
>This is a quite frequently discussed symptom. The hot/warm starting
>difficulty is usually caused by a loss of pressure in your (car's)
>fuel line. This can be caused by several possible problems (i.e.,
>1. The brass check-valve that is screwed into to the top your (car's)
>fuel pump is a very common reason for the symptoms you described;
>it's also about the cheapest item to replace. However if you've had
>the fuel pump replaced in recent years and the new pump is the
>so-called "slim" type, there is no separate check valve to fail. So
>best to consider other source(s) of leakage:
>2. One or more leaky fuel injectors ($$)
>3. Leaky fuel pressure regulator.
>In my car the answer was #1. A new check valve is very inexpensive,
>although the replacement procedure requires as much work as changing
>the fuel pump itself. If you still are using the original pump (and
>especially if it's a noisy one) you might want to consider installing
>a new pump. BTW, even if there had been a new original-style pump
>("fat") installed in recent years, the old check valve may have been
>* Phil & Judy Rose Rochester, NY *
>* mailto:pjrose at *
>200q20v mailing list

-Peter Schulz
Chelmsford Ma, USA

1991 200 20v Q Avant Titan Grey
1991 200 20v Q Avant Indigo Mica
1991 90 20v Q Red

1990 CQ silver (awaiting S2 engine transplant)
1991 CQ silver (potentially replacing the 1990 for the transplant)
1990 CQ red ( to part or not)

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