Audi Drama. Blew Motor. Suggestions?
CLAG500 at aol.com
CLAG500 at aol.com
Sat Dec 30 09:38:26 EST 2006
Yes seems I obviously should have checked a few things before cranking
the boost up. Will have to be more thorough if I get humpty dumpty back
I was running 94 octane fuel. I had just added a can of BG44K to a full
tank of fuel. The chips were from Ben Swann. He had actually suggested I
might need some bigger injectors with the boost I was seeing. (1.9 on the gauge
so possibly getting close to 2.5 bar actual). I have a boost gauge but it's
still on the kitchen table so it didn't tell me much.
Yes I do want to have a hot rod. Looks like I will have to do some
homework on what the best route will be. I thought I had it sorted but I guess
making a ton of power isn't necessarily sorted. Lot easier to grenade one of
these things than I thought. At least it waited until it was in the garage to
barf up a rod.
I'm assuming I'll need an entire bottom end crank, rods, block. I haven't
seen the crank or rods yet but it can't be too good.
Thank you for the words of wisdom.
In a message dated 12/30/2006 2:23:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
pcolegrps at mn.rr.com writes:
On Fri, 29 Dec 2006 22:12:56 -0500 (EST), CLAG500 at aol.com wrote:
>Please elaborate on your comment. What are you classifying as abuse?
Not to join Bernie but it does take some work to blow up an I5 that is
maybe- whose chip? I've found more than one error in how the TAP folks
mapped my engine
( PO installed the chip and spring kit)
>The wastegate spring?
maybe- the gate can fail and lead to overboost- especially with the stock
K-24 it can make
pressure but no FLOW resulting in hot air and makes fueling an issue.
Usually that blows head gaskets first though.
>Downshifting to 4th to pass a car on the freeway?
Only if you MISS a shift. :-)
>Maybe an Audi is not the car for me as the only reason I own one is to get
>good performance for a cheap price. I'm not interested in tootling around
IF you plan on "hot rodding" a 15 year old car you need to at least do a few
like- A/F ratios at WOT, EGT temps at WOT and full load, mixture temps
before and after IC,
pull and check the injectors for flow and pattern, replace plugs with
hi-perf ones ( that
in and of itself is a highly debatable subject) and make sure the old ones
read well ie no signs of cyl to cyl fueling or oiling issues,
perform a cyl leak down test to be sure you're NOT leaking oil into a
cylinder ( that WILL cause hot spotting and substantially
enhance the chance of detonation), make sure the ignition system is 100%
with new wires and cap/rotor (the right one for a 3B),
have the oil checked for bearing debris to be sure you don't have an ailing
check that the engine oiling system is 100% and a few other sanity checks
before turning up der schrapenal knobben.
You get the picture- basically to get long life from a hi-boost engine it
ALL has to be pretty well "spot on"
>an old Audi just to be tooltling around in an old Audi. When I got this
>was slow as molasses. I finally got it running very strong and it throws a
The I5 is one strong engine- I suspect a lean condition and then
detonation. Might also be a misfire.
You didn't mention what fuel you were using or what checks ( WBO2, egt etc)
you did BEFORE pounding on the engine.
I've got damn near 120k on my chipped and WG spring mod'ed car.
Granted I don't pound on it much anymore ( it does have 330k miles now) but
when I had it new
( to me at 180k miles) I ran it fairly hard- as in track days at BIR, RA,
I did find "map" errors on a dyno run and had to have that corrected.
>rod. I don't know if it was the chips or if it was just a case of a car
>babied for 140k miles and then being driven at full capacity.
Sounds like a lean detonation event- you typically only get 1 of these in a
It doesn't take more than a few seconds to hammer a rod bearing to pieces,
rod tends to weld itself to the journal and then the thing ends up outside
Slam, bam, thank you man!
>The only attraction I have for these cars is that they can perform very
>well. Like I said in my post. If I can't have the kind of power I was
>my 2.5 bar chips I'm going to have to find something else. That's the only
>reason I bought this car.
At 2.5 bar ( is that absolute or gauge btw) you are at the fringe of the
stock fueling system to keep you out of lean mode.
At the least you need to be sure the WOT switch works, the WGFV works, the
knock sensors work and the "chip" maps the boost
correctly, the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) works, the fuel pump
is 100% at flow and pressure ( determined by the voltage/current at the pump
oh and be DAMN sure you use 92+ octane fuel.
>I think they can handle it though as there are many driving
>S2ed cars out there without internals going external.
There have been many I5T blown engines over the years, last one I
post-mortem'd was an oil
filter failure causing a Urq to loose pressure while whaling down the main
straight at RA.
It took about 5 seconds for the rod and crank to become one and then exit
stage right ( passengers side)
>If you know something about this please let me know. If you don't reply
>anyway as you've got me fully primed for a pissing match with your comment.
Paul R. Cole:
'83 Urq Helios Blue ( SAR) #900335
'91 CQ Indigo Mettalic Blue, 143k miles- daily driver
'91 200 TQ 20v- still going strong @335+k!!. Old cars-84x2 CGT, 89 200tq
pcole at mn.rr.com # Powered by OS/2 Warp 4
More information about the 200q20v