Audi Drama. Blew Motor. Suggestions?

CLAG500 at CLAG500 at
Sat Dec 30 09:38:26 EST 2006

    Yes seems I obviously should have checked a few  things before  cranking 
the boost up. Will have to be more thorough  if I get humpty dumpty back 
together again. 
    I was running 94 octane fuel. I had just added a can of  BG44K to a full 
tank of fuel. The chips were from Ben Swann. He had actually  suggested I 
might need some bigger injectors with the boost I was seeing. (1.9  on the gauge 
so possibly getting close to 2.5 bar actual). I have a boost gauge  but it's 
still on the kitchen table so it didn't tell me much. 
   Yes I do want to have a hot rod. Looks like I will have  to do some 
homework on what the best route will be. I thought I had it sorted  but I guess 
making a ton of power isn't necessarily sorted. Lot easier to  grenade one of 
these things than I thought. At least it waited until it was in  the garage to 
barf up a rod. 
   I'm assuming I'll need an entire bottom end crank, rods,  block. I haven't 
seen the crank or rods yet but it can't be too good.
  Thank you for the words of wisdom.
In a message dated 12/30/2006 2:23:19 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pcolegrps at writes:

On Fri,  29 Dec 2006 22:12:56 -0500 (EST), CLAG500 at wrote:

>Please elaborate on your comment. What are you classifying as abuse?  

Not to join Bernie but it does take some work to  blow up an I5 that is 
properly setup.

>The chips? 
maybe-  whose chip? I've found more than one error in how the TAP folks 
mapped my  engine
( PO installed the chip and spring kit)

>The wastegate  spring? 
maybe- the gate can fail and lead to overboost-  especially with the stock 
K-24 it can make
pressure but no FLOW resulting  in hot air and makes fueling an issue.
Usually that blows head gaskets  first though.

>Downshifting to 4th to pass a car on the freeway?  
Only if you MISS a shift. :-)

>Maybe an Audi is not the  car for me as the only reason I own one is to  get 
>good  performance for a cheap price. I'm not interested in tootling  around 

IF you plan on "hot rodding" a 15 year old car you need to at least do  a few 
basic checks
like- A/F ratios at WOT, EGT temps at WOT and full load,  mixture temps 
before and after IC,
pull and check the injectors for flow  and pattern, replace plugs with 
hi-perf ones ( that
in and of itself is a  highly debatable subject) and make sure the old ones 
read well ie no signs of  cyl to cyl fueling or oiling issues, 
perform a cyl leak down test to be  sure you're NOT leaking oil into a 
cylinder ( that WILL cause hot spotting and  substantially 
enhance the chance of detonation), make sure the ignition  system is 100% 
with new wires and cap/rotor (the right one for a 3B),
have  the oil checked for bearing debris to be sure you don't have an ailing  
rod/main bearing,
check that the engine oiling system is 100% and a few  other sanity checks 
before turning up der schrapenal knobben.
You get the  picture- basically to get long life from a hi-boost engine it 
ALL has to be  pretty well "spot on"

>an old Audi just to be tooltling around in an  old Audi. When I got  this 
car it 
>was slow as molasses. I finally  got it running very strong and  it throws a 

The  I5 is one  strong engine- I suspect a lean condition and then 
detonation. Might also be a  misfire.
You didn't mention what fuel you were using or what checks ( WBO2,  egt etc)
you did BEFORE pounding on the engine.

I've got damn near  120k on my chipped and WG spring mod'ed car.
Granted I don't pound on it  much anymore ( it does have 330k miles now) but 
when I had it new
( to me  at 180k miles) I ran it fairly hard- as in track days at BIR, RA, 
I  did find "map" errors on a dyno run and had to have that  corrected.

>rod. I don't know if it was the chips or if it was just  a case of a  car 
>babied for 140k miles and then being  driven at full capacity.

Sounds like a lean detonation event-  you typically only get 1 of these in a 
turbo car.
It doesn't take more than  a few seconds to hammer a rod bearing to pieces, 
then the
rod tends to weld  itself to the journal and then the thing ends up outside 
the block.
Slam,  bam, thank you man!

>The only attraction I have for these cars is  that they can perform  very 
>well. Like I said in my post. If I  can't have the kind of power I was  
making with 
>my 2.5 bar chips  I'm going to have to find something else.  That's the only 
>reason  I bought this car. 

At 2.5 bar ( is that absolute or gauge  btw) you are at the fringe of the 
stock fueling system to keep you out of lean  mode.
At the least you need to be sure the WOT switch works, the WGFV  works, the 
knock sensors work and the "chip" maps the boost 
correctly, the  FPR (fuel pressure regulator) works, the fuel pump 
is 100% at flow and  pressure ( determined by the voltage/current at the pump 
oh and be DAMN  sure you use 92+ octane fuel.

>I think they can handle it though as  there are many driving  
>S2ed cars out there  without internals going external.  
There have been many I5T  blown engines over the years, last one I 
post-mortem'd was an oil
filter  failure causing a Urq to loose pressure while whaling down the main 
straight  at RA.
It took about 5 seconds for the rod and crank to become one and then  exit 
stage right ( passengers side)

>If you know something about  this please let me know. If you don't reply  
>anyway as you've got  me fully primed for a pissing match with your  comment.

Paul R.  Cole:
'83 Urq Helios Blue ( SAR) #900335        
'91  CQ Indigo Mettalic Blue, 143k miles- daily driver
'91 200 TQ 20v- still  going strong  @335+k!!. Old cars-84x2 CGT, 89  200tq
pcole at #  Powered by OS/2 Warp  4

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