b.benz at charter.net
Tue Jan 17 21:57:40 EST 2006
> From: Chuck Pierce <cpcycle at earthlink.net>
> Hi Bernie
> When adjusting the camber how many degree's or minute's does the camber
> change per mm of travel at the top?
> Top being the adjustment plate.
The strut assembly from lower ball joint to top anchor point is about 24"
tall. Thus using simple HS trig, one can calculate the length change of the
opposite triangle side required for a 1 degree included angle change. I
don't try to remember this trivia. You calculate.
> I did the Igor Kissel mod to my top plates, had to grind a little off
> the outside of the plates to get them to sit correctly.
Not as easy nor cheap as slotting the tower mounting holes to accomplish the
same magnitude of added adjustment.
> Do you have any BTDT advise on taking the outside CV joint apart? I did
> the inside already.
To remove it from the drive shaft such that one can replace the boot, or to
disassemble the already removed C/V joint? You previously indicated that
your boots were not yet broken but I agree, at 200K they may fail soon and
failure makes such a mess of everything in the wheel well! BTDT! If they
have not yet failed or only recently done so, one need not disassemble,
clean, and inspect the joint if they have not been clicking. Rather, just
replace the boot and repack with additional grease.
> It looks like I could use two sets of hands, one to hold the axle and
> keep the clip spread and one to smack the CV off the axle.
"Smacking it off the axle" is not the best technique, and three hands should
be more than adequate. I use the hub to axle retaining bolt as a "pusher"
to gently force the CV joint off the axle as I hold the retaining clip open.
Three hands, one holding the clip open for the first 0.050" travel, one to
hold a vice grip on the cv spline, and one to turn the axle bolt. The bolt
won't be long enough to completely remove the CV, but one can insert a 1"
plug to extend the push if necessary. All this can be done without removing
the strut from the car.
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