Hard start, cold start problem,rough idle...now Idle Switch/MAF code

Kneale Brownson kneale at coslink.net
Mon Jul 3 13:34:42 EDT 2006

The 5k and 200 sensors are the same and cost around $100 new.  The V8 has
two such sensors, same as the other two except for the color of the
insulation on the wiring (one's gray and the other's black), and the length
of the wires.  The V8 sensor price is in the $150 range and the one with
black insulation supposedly is no longer available.  I bought two for our
V8 #1 a couple years ago and put black tape on one to make identification
at the wiring connector easier.   I just got a new 5K/200 version for use
on our V8 #2, which has developed the non-restart when hot symptoms.  The
gray wire is three times as long, but I have enough black tape to make it
look black, and I bet I can find a way to take up the slack.

At 09:22 AM 7/3/2006 -0700, Kenneth Keith wrote:
>Kneale Brownson <kneale at coslink.net> wrote:
>> Just for curiosity's sake:
>> On the V8, the engine speed sensor has a history of failing with age.  It
>> sits under the driver side exhaust manifold, supposedly protected by a heat
>> shield.  When it starts to fail, the car will not restart when hot.  Will
>> start cold and run OK cold/hot, but shut it off and try to restart a few
>> minutes later and there is no go.  I'm guessing the ECU needs signal from
>> the sensor to let the ignition spark.
>> Has anyone ever found an engine speed sensor go bad on an I-5 engine?
>> Could that device cause poor idling on an I-5, but not necessarily no start?
>Yes, my buddy's '89 200q10v had an RPM switch go bad, which would make
>the car die when hot.  We put another used one in and it is okay now.
>I had never heard of that failing until this incident, but another
>person pointed us in that direction claiming it's a common failure.
>Upon describing the symptoms, he went straight to that diagnosis.
>It's simple enough to check if you have another sensor to try.

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