b.benz at charter.net
Mon Oct 2 18:52:44 EDT 2006
Nothing wrong with dino oil in these cars. That¹s all my car has ever seen
in its 210K and it gets no topping off between 10K oil and 20K filter
changes. You could use a higher viscosity, 10-40 or 15-50, but won¹t solve
Derek, If you drive under boost all the time you don¹t need intake valve
stem seals! Brakes maybe.
> From: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
> Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 15:42:58 -0700
> To: David.Schaible at jrspharma.com, b.benz at charter.net
> Cc: 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: Burning Oil???
> I've always run dino oil in the car, albeit maybe not always the best
> viscosity for the temp range. Right now running 10w-30. Oil temps have
> always been the same, with the temp needle never getter past maybe 1/4 to
> 1/3 from the left of the gauge (can't remember that temp at this point).
> Yes Bernie, same story, different day. I've hesitated on addressing the
> issue given the effort/money factor to accomplish said goal. Also heard that
> replacing the seals only does not always fix oil consumption problems.
> Aggravating the situation...older the car gets the less sense major work
> like this makes. And like I'd mentioned...only times I ever see visible
> signs of oil burning is on start up and these three long term, traffic
> related idleing excercises.
> Derek P
>> Sounds like oil viscosity reduction due to heat as well. didn't you just
>> switch to dino oil? What is the grade? Oil temps? Etc.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Bernie Benz [mailto:b.benz at charter.net]
>> Sent: Monday, October 02, 2006 4:40 PM
>> To: Derek Pulvino
>> Cc: 200q20V mailing list
>> Subject: Re: Burning Oil???
>> The same, years old problem, huh, Derek,
>> Max. intake manifold vacuum occurs at idle and when using engine braking.
>> Sounds like your condition, if you have the same results going down a long
>> hill and then accelerating at the bottom. Bad intake valve stem seals thus
>> will pass the most oil during these high vacuum conditions, to be burned
>> when you open the throttle. Your valve guides may not be in terrible shape,
>> not needing replacement, as they won¹t wear much with all that lube passing
>> So on the cheap (knowing Derek), first just change the valve stem seals,
>> which can be done with the head in place. You must pressurize the cyl that
>> you are working on to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder.
>> Convert an old spark plug into a pressure supply. You will need to make (or
>> borrow from me, I made one several years ago & never used yet) a valve
>> spring compressor tool that attaches to the cam bearing cap bolt holes.
>> you get the valve spring off the valve you can measure the valves side
>> within the guide, thus checking for wear.
>> A good little DIY job for you!
>> Regards, Bernie
>>> From: "Derek Pulvino" <dbpulvino at hotmail.com>
>>> Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2006 11:58:09 -0700
>>> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
>>> Subject: Burning Oil???
>>> Here's the newest skinny. For a while I've suspected I need to replace
>>> valve guides and seals as I'm seeing higher than normal oil consumption
>>> miles/quart) and get puffs of oil smoke on start up. The other thing
>>> found is in those situations where I get stuck in traffic and wind up
>>> idleing with very little movement (ie never move faster than 1st gear
>>> for upwards up 15-minutes or so, when I finally do start moving the car
>>> burns oil....very badly, embarassingly badly. In fact, at those times,
>>> bad is the smoke that the untrained eye may actually mistake the 200 for
>>> 80's vintage Dodge Caravan.
>>> I've seen this situation (idle for long periods of time then drive with
>>> bad, smoke) happen three times. Talking to my local shop this morning
>>> mentioned that if the seals/guides are bad, when you sit and idle for
>>> long, excessive oil can accumulate within the combustion chamber leading
>>> exactly what I've seen...lots of oil smoke out the back on acceleration,
>>> more and more white smoke coming out the tailpipe the longer you idle.
>>> Today after idleing and moving less than a 1/4-mile in a half hour, the
>>> was burning oil while idleing, and then really burning oil once I got on
>>> freeway, however once the oil cloud went away (about 3-miles later), it
>>> didn't come back under any condition (heavy acceleration, idleing,
>>> with or without foot on gas).
>>> Has anybody else heard of/experienced this situation? Any other
>>> To my knowledge, the head gasket is fine. No oil in the coolant
>>> no moisture or foam on dipstick/filler cap.
>>> At this point I'm on the knifes edge between biting the bullet and
>>> the head redone, or biting the other bullet and getting a different car.
>>> Reservations on head rebuild is the mileage of the vehicle (235k) with
>>> potential for block/ring and/or turbo seal issues in the future, and of
>>> course all the other oddities that plague the 200 (windows, lights, fuel
>>> injectors, bomb, exhaust system...)
>>> Derek P
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