rear brakes

Bernie Benz b.benz at
Wed May 9 13:28:25 EDT 2007

Sounds like he does have a sludged up caliper and needs to overhaul  
all calipers and flush system.

IMO, an E-brake lever being off its stop, for whatever reason,  
shouldn’t have any effect on one’s ability to manually retract the  
piston all the way.


On May 4, 2007, at 5:59 AM, Phil Rose wrote:

> Are you using some sort of piston-compression tool (as you know, the
> piston needs to be rotated while compressing)? Anyway, it's usually
> necessary to compress the piston a bit further in than the edge of
> the boot in order to install brand new pads.
> As to the e-brake mechanism--yes, you should make sure that the
> e-brake lever (on the caliper) has returned all the way to its "rest"
> position. If the brake cables are bad (or if the caliper ebrake
> internals are gummed up) then the "return" spring may not have enough
> strength to fully retract; it will probably need some extra
> assistance (you). Otherwise there'll be interference with compressing
> the piston (and, in use there'll be excessive pad & rotor wear).
> Phil
> At 8:20 PM -0700 5/3/07, PyRo wrote:
>> do you have to do anything with the ebrake when
>> changing the rear brakes? just curious cause the
>> piston was a pita to push in (im gonna pick up a new
>> one) i think i got it all the way in but it still
>> didnt want to  fit on over the new pads i got. i got
>> the pads from it possible for them to have
>> given me a thicker pad then i actually need or does
>> the piston go in further than i think.(its pretty much
>> level with the rubber boot). and when i release my
>> ebrake it sounds like metal rubbing against my rotors?
>> any ideas. frustration + gasoline = a burned car. thanks
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