[V8] UFO screw

Bernie Benz b.benz at charter.net
Sun Nov 4 13:56:21 PST 2007

If you’ve really buggered up the threads in the hub full depth,  
probably the easiest and best thing to do is get a Hellicoil kit fot  
the correct screw size and tap it out with the hellicoi tap and wind  
in the stainless insert.
In the meantime, nothing wrong with running with just the lug bolts  
orienting the rotor to the hub.


On Nov 4, 2007, at 1:39 PM, Kneale Brownson wrote:

> I've got just flathead machine screws (M6X1.0X15 with an oversize  
> head) that fill up the recess in the rotor.  That's what I have on  
> three sets of UFOs.  Never saw a flathead screw and washer.  I  
> wasn't aware of the washer included in that Bentley reference.
> When they start salting your roads in Montana or wherever you are,  
> you'll understand why an impact driver is needed to take these  
> little screws out.  I've never tightened them more than fingertip  
> tight on a screwdriver.  This car hasn't had pads changed (I like  
> to wear them out like you do--almost scraping metal to metal on all  
> four of these) for several years.  I always antiseize everything on  
> the brakes/wheels.  I once had a truck wheel I couldn't dislodge  
> with a sledge hammer.  Even picking up and dropping it with the  
> floorjack wasn't enough.  Had to put the nuts back on loosely and  
> drive it around to free it up.
> Regards, Kneale
> Bernie Benz <b.benz at charter.net> wrote:
> Kneale,
> I’ve assumed that you were refering to the later rotor to hub
> locating system, as depicted by Bentley 46.10e, and is mine, using
> the screw and cupped washer. Maybe not?
> An impact drive needed? Why, don’t you guys keep the interface
> surfaces on hub, rotor, and wheel clean and lightly greased for the
> needed face alignments and moisture exclusion? That Philips screw
> need be no tighter than a light snug.
> Bernie
> On Nov 4, 2007, at 11:53 AM, Kneale Brownson wrote:
> > Thanks, Bernie & Cobram. The problem with a next-size screw is it
> > comes with a larger head than the recess in the rotor. Suppose I
> > could take a flathead countersink to the rotor and enlarge that
> > too, eh?
> >
> > I was using an impact driver (hand-held hammering type) when the
> > screw head twisted off, unfortunately.
> >
> > I suppose Cobram's suggestion will help with roadside
> > orientation. I've got a broken snow broom with expandable shaft
> > that I've used to apply brakes so I could check lights, etc., so I
> > guess I'll leave that in that car instead of keeping it in the shop.
> >
> > cobram at juno.com wrote:
> > Kneale Brownson writes:
> >
> >> So I'm concerned about having to replace a wheel on the road if a
> >> tire problem developed, especially in the dark of night with  
> traffic
> >> whizzing by.
> >>
> >> Any suggestions?
> >
> > It's usually not a problem as a little corrosion goes a long way
> > towards
> > holding the orientation. You could cut a piece of broom stick so it
> > fits
> > between the seat and brake pedal to hold down the pedal and lock
> > the hubs
> > when you have to change a tire. A flat piece on the seat end helps,
> > you
> > wedge the piece in then use the seat adjustment to get a good lock.
> >
> > You need an impact driver if you want to get those hat screws out
> > without
> > breaking or stripping them.
> >
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