UrS and 200 ball joint failures
David.Schaible at jrspharma.com
Thu Nov 13 20:15:30 PST 2008
how could i forget a name like "thrust" bearing that one begs to be lubed and serviced!
From: Bernie Benz [mailto:b.benz at charter.net]
Sent: Thu 11/13/2008 6:40 PM
To: Schaible, David
Cc: 200q20V mailing list
Subject: Re: UrS and 200 ball joint failures
Our 44 chassis struts have a pretty good thrust bearing design,
pretty well protected from the elements, but they do get dry and are
easly cleaned and relubed when you have the strut apart. The only
caution is that the many small balls are uncaged, so use caution when
separating the races not to loose any balls.
It is the 88 and 89 chassis cars that employ a very poor, small and
unprotected, thrust bearing design. Their springs are commonly
winding up and releasing with a “twang”. Solved that problem by
adding splash protection to the design.
On Nov 13, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Schaible, David wrote:
> This sounds like a classic example of your front strut bearing getting
> seized up, the part is a plastic cased bearing on the top of spring
> assembly, basically as I understand it the spring gets wound when
> turning at low speed and then releases the tension which is the clunk.
> The function of the bearing is to prevent the spring winding while
> moving or stationary. Many times the bearing can be relubed...talk to
> bernie about relubing anything, the part cost like $30 from the dealer
> two years ago when I bought them new.
> If you look at the bently parts diagram you will see what I'm talking
> about and if I mislead you I will be corrected with a multiplicity of
> responses soon,
> My personal 0.02$ is this is not a big concern as itdoesnt usually
> affect handling too much, I would wait until I had good reason to
> remove the strut assemblies b/c they are a major hassle and require
> special tools and know how to get this back together properly.
> If you have cash, then by all means get it fixed right away and pay a
> shop to do it.
> David Schaible
> JRS Pharma LP
> 2981 Rt. 22
> Patterson, NY 12563
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jlagnese at massed.net [mailto:jlagnese at massed.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 3:16 PM
> To: michael; 200q20v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: UrS and 200 ball joint failures
> Backing up as well? I also have this. Also
> undiagnosed as yet. 91 200 TQ 20V with 135K.
> ---- Original message ----
> Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 13:50:16 -0600
> From: michael <mdearing at mhtc.net>
> Subject: Re: UrS and 200 ball joint failures
> To: 200q20v at audifans.com
>> I have had a mysterious clunk in the front end
> for many miles(since
>> 150k, now 230k). Alignment specialists have not
> been able to figure
>> it out. A good indy with lots of 5000/100/200/S
> experience has not
>> been able to figure it out. It now happens more
> often. Happens only
>> when turning at very low speed (out of a parking
> space for instance)
>> and mostly when just starting out (less than 5
>> Any clues as to what to have checked that may
> have been missed?
>> - michael
>> On Aug 12, 2008, at 2:00 PM,
> 200q20v-request at audifans.com wrote:
>>> Message: 3
>>> Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 12:41:09 -0400
>>> From: "mike claire" <mike.claire at gmail.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [s-cars] UrS and 200 ball joint
>>> To: "Peter Schulz" <pcschulz at comcast.net>
>>> Cc: 200 20v List <200q20v at audifans.com>,
>>> <s-car-list at audifans.com>, Fred Munro
> <munrof at sympatico.ca>
> <d219f42d0808120941m636c26edl2d8f895aa6ef2458 at mail.gmail.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>> Good deal, that answers it for me. No clunks
> and tight front-end =
>>> worry about it. I'll have somebody I trust give
> the pinch bolts a
>>> good look
>>> the next time it's in.
>>> On Tue, Aug 12, 2008 at 9:55 AM, Peter Schulz
>>> <pcschulz at comcast.net> wrote:
>>>> I second what Fred said about the pinch
> bolts..happened to my wife
>>>> in our
>>>> green S6 and luckily it was in a parking lot.
>>>> If you purchase your car used, and have a
> mysterious clunk in the
>>>> front end
>>>> that you can't resolve despite checking
> everything and replacing
>>>> most wear
>>>> items save the control arms, don't just check
> the torque on the pinch
>>>> bolt...remove it and make sure its not a: the
> wrong type of bolt,
>>>> unknown, b: cross threaded, so you "think"
> it's tight...
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