Now Yes Start and ~1.8bar
auditude at gmail.com
Sun Nov 23 14:23:58 PST 2008
Yeah, I don't know what the deal is with the check engine light. I need to
pass emissions, after failing the first time, so although I changed the fuel
and oil, plugs, ran some Seafoam through it, and O2 sensor, I thought I'd
give it a chance to tell me if there were any faults. Now I've also changed
the fuel filter and fixed some vacuum leaks, as well as verified the
function of the MFTS and TPS. With no codes popping up, I guess I'll get
the free retest.
I took it on the test drive and didn't even get out of the neighborhood when
I hit the overboost fuel cutoff at only 1.2 or so indicated (stock gauge so
far, but an analog gauge from my previous 200q20v is coming). So I head
back home and check the WG diaphragm and lower hose. All is good there and
reading SJM's site I almost suspected the MAF sensor, but then I saw that I
must have popped off the vacuum line to the FPR when I checked the
distributor (vacuum! vacuum! vacuum!). Popped that back on and I'm seeing
mostly 1.7bar (I saw 0.9bar with the key on, engine off earlier today) and
even 1.8bar for a moment. To me it feels slow, probably because my last
200q20v was at about 14psi and I recently drove that 2.0t FSI A3, but I
believe I am indeed getting full boost. I have Ben Swann's 2.5bar chipset
to go in when I'm brave enough to crack into one of the ECUs and solder in
the 2.5bar PT (and chip sockets?), or find someone capable of doing it for
I bought some vacuum hose and I'll replace the underhood pieces. The water
pump is weeping, which may be from when I had to loosen it to move the PS
pump and bracket to get the radiator replaced. The timing belt looked very
fresh so in trying to direct money towards the right things I think I may
replace the only water pump o-ring rather than throw a whole timing belt
regiment on it like I usually do (I thought I remembered the o-rings sold by
themselves without pumps, but I can't find them so I may be thinking of
thermostat o-rings, which are available. Anyone know what size the water
pump o-ring is?). The rear main seal may have a leak, so I've got bigger
fish to fry. I'll try some seal conditioner first before I drop the tranny
for a few drips.
I bought this car after it was sitting for maybe a year or more by the PO,
so I blame the very old gas for the poor emissions results (high NOX).
Silly me jumping the gun trying to smog it before the old crap was cleared
out. There is a lot of stuff I suppose that needed to be done on this car,
but having dealt with used 200q20v's before I think it's coming together
pretty well. The driver door lock linkage was busted so I fixed that
thinking I would also have to rewire the power window wires in the jamb,
because some didn't work, but I WD-40'ed the switches and they now work.
Since I was underneath looking at the rear brakes I threw on the stock
catback from my wrecked 200q20v to replaced the multiply-perforated one this
one had. Strange that the one on there was all one piece with the two
mufflers, but the one from my old car had another joint between the two
mufflers, which was easier to handle. I thought the water pump was
warbling, but after feeling how loose the distributor rotor is I think it's
just distributor rattle (does it make noise at idle, or is that just when
coming off throttle?).
This car like all the other 200q20v's I've been around has the hood catching
on the passenger wiper arm. What's the fix for that? Move the wiper up so
that it parks higher (unattractive) and/or pull the hood forward slightly
(seems to match up with the fenders fine like it is).
I think something is up with the climate control, of course. Aside from it
not blowing consistently cold with the a/c on, it almost feels like the
heater is on when it's on econ and set to a lower temp than ambient.
Also, the autocheck seems to be really pessimistic about how many more miles
I have 'til empty. When I'm just in the red or so it's already claiming 30
miles to go, etc. I've taken it down to E with just a little more room to
go until where the needle rests with the key off, and it takes more than 30
miles to get there from when the autocheck starts warning.
I was almost sad when this car wouldn't start, since I already have one
200q20v pearl yard ornament that won't start. I was hoping to, and still
plan to, use this running example to be able to swap and diagnose the other
one. Once I get both running I'll have to decide which one gets the RS2
parts, suspension, and other stuff I had installed or planned for my
previous 200q20v. Or maybe I'll sell both and get an 95.5 S6 Avant since I
still would like to have one. One step at a time though.
Anyway I hope this one stays running. Thanks for the tips and
On Sun, Nov 23, 2008 at 2:45 PM, <rbade12 at aol.com> wrote:
> It is a bit puzzling that the pieces of the puzzle don't add up, the check
> engine light and the fuel filter. Hopefully it's one of those, "well it's
> working, not going to think about it" deals! Let us know how behaves on the
> test run.
> Good luck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kenneth Keith <auditude at gmail.com>
> Ok, so the new fuel filter is in. I check for spark and have spark. So I tried to start it again and it starts and I have a check engine light. I
> pull codes and get 4444. I turn it off and restart fine, and I notice that
> the fuel pump actually doesn't make a noise until it's cranking, but the
> clicking I heard before, which must not be the FP relay after all.
> Hmm. I guess it's off for a hopefully 1.8bar test drive, AAA Plus card and
> cell phone in hand (and my FP relay jumper and another FP relay).
More information about the 200q20v