steering rack replacement
b.benz at charter.net
Wed Oct 8 20:17:40 PDT 2008
I fought that problem several, many years ago after overhauling my
rack, so it may not be that your rebuilt rack is wrong. I don’t
remember if I tried with the outboard TREs free of the strut or not.
But I finely got them both started with about ½ or 1 turn, after
which all was OK. I’ve R&R‘ed and overhauled 44 chassis racks
previously without this problem. I don’t remember about your boot
interface problem, but the solution should be obvious. No reason that
the car need be off or on the floor to get things lined up straight.
On Oct 8, 2008, at 4:28 PM, Danny wrote:
> Whats up. Replaced the turbo coolant hose, or what was left of it,
> the other day and also installed a new rack. Im having trouble
> attaching the tierods to the rack though. I have a couple of
> 1) Does the car have to be on the floor? I know the bentley says
> that the when tightening the rods, the wheels should be on the
> floor. Does it also mean when i first attach them.
> 2) Is it possible that the tie rod bracket from my old rack is a
> different size then the reman one that i got?
> 3) Do i have to put the rubber boot of the rack over the nipples on
> the bracket, or does this happen when i tighten it down?
> The reason that im asking these is because it seems that one side
> is off by a slight fraction. It doesnt matter which side, if i bolt
> in the ds, then the pass side is off, and vice versa. For the hell
> of it, i tried to just tighten down the bracket without any of the
> tie rods and it was the same situation. Any ideas?
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