No start after TB????We Got Fire!!!!
kneale at knitknacks.com
Thu Oct 22 19:52:05 PDT 2009
Upon the insistence of one of my advisers on this task, who maintained
the backfire meant the crank was 180 degrees out of time with the
camshaft, I went through the painful process of realigning as
suggested. I found I could loosen the waterpump bolts just enough to
slide it into the loose belt position without leaking coolant. I think
the fact I coated the block and seal with a compatible grease before
installing the pump helped a lot. Once reassembled, with the auxiliary
radiator back in place, I fired right up.
However, I did fail in my efforts to seal up the intake. The gasket
between the throttle body and intake manifold looked smooth and so I
thought I'd be OK by just cleaning everything up. First chance to get
beyond maybe 1.3 boost, I got the big hit. Guess I'll have to strip
the old gasket off and apply a new one. No time now because I'm already
a week late in getting to Colorado, where we're heading tomorrow.
Anyway, thanks to all who helped suggest solutions to my troubles.
This has been a real ordeal for me. Sunday, the 11th, I fell off the
doorsill to my tractor cab, landing on my back five feet below. I've
had broken rib-type pain in my chest ever since. X-rays showed nothing,
but every move of my torso has been a sharp jab. First couple days I
couldn't do anything, and I originally was scheduled to leave last
Thursday. If I hadn't already taken the front off the car before my
fall, I wouldn't have done the timing belt in this circumstance.
Kneale Brownson wrote:
> With a freshly charged battery this a.m., the engine would spin quickly,
> but still no start. I got a couple backfires and then quit. I pulled
> the plugs--#1 had a little fuel on it, the rest smelled of fuel (these
> are new plugs), one through four had some black stuff on them, but #5
> has none--looks almost like it isn't firing or isn't getting fuel, but
> it smells of fuel.
> I've confirmed that the plug wires follow the firing order around the
> I've rechecked the other connections in the engine bay and can't find
> anything loose.
> Next step, I guess, is recheck the timing belt timing. I'm correct,
> aren't I, that the camshaft pulley's dot only aligns with the V mark on
> the valve cover at TDC? Even if I'm wrong, the new belt went on with
> the same alignment of crank and cam pulleys as the old one.
> Can I loosen the waterpump just enough to remove the belt without losing
> the $25 worth of Autobahn coolant I just put in?
> Kneale Brownson wrote:
>> Got the car buttoned up after the new timing belt ran on track (idler
>> pulley reset straight), and I get no start.
>> Got an almost start before the battery, which has been sitting for
>> several weeks, started going low. Charged it up and used the charger
>> boost to augment starter operation. Engine spun a lot faster, backfired
>> once and no start.
>> Camshaft and crankshaft orientation remained unchanged throughout the
>> belt replacement procedure. Used the locker to take the bolt loose.
>> Both cam and crank moved a degree or two when belt was untensioned, but
>> stayed that way until I put the belt back on. Had to move the
>> crank--and cam--slightly to get the tool back on, but ended up with the
>> cam pulley dot aligned the same with the arrow on the valve cover as it
>> had been when I loosened everything. My TDC "gauge" in the front
>> cylinder lined up at the mark I've used on it to do several other TBs,
>> and every time I spun the engine by hand, it still came up to the mark
>> when the cam pulley dot lined up.
>> The other things: I replaced the spark plugs with new correct plugs. I
>> had the throttle body off to try to fix an air leak at its mating with
>> the intake manifold I discovered earlier with a pressurized intake
>> test. I used some carb cleaner to get the gunk off the throttle body
>> and intake manifold before reassembling.
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