[20v] New (to me) '91 Coupe Quattro
jhebert at wrxtra.com
Wed Dec 12 09:03:30 PST 2007
At 02:09 AM 12/12/2007, you wrote:
>On Tue, 11 Dec 2007 23:18:02 -0500, J.B. Hebert wrote:
>HI- welcome aboard
> >A couple of firsts for me. First time posting to this list, and the
> >first time owning a 20v Audi. I just picked up a '91 Coupe Quattro
>What color? I've got '91 Indigo Blue ( over platinum) and a '91
>Black ( over tan) along with my son's '90 Ginster ( over black).
Tornado red over black.
> >that I will be overhauling for use as a daily driver. I have an '89
> >90 Quattro, so I'm used to working on these cars, but the 20v is new
>OK so you're used to the quirks on these cars. The CQ isn't really
>all that different from the
>10v cars EXCEPT there a few unique items with the EFI , suspension
>and interior bits.
>Do you have the Bently for the car? It's really the only source of
>repair info available for the unique bits on the '91 CQ.
I do indeed have the Bently manual; I had gotten it for the 90 and
luckily it covers both cars.
> >for me. Besides the obvious (timing belt, full fluid/filter change,
> >plugs/wires/cap/rotor, brakes), is there anything I should be looking
>The EFI parts are unique to the '91 20V. Hitachi ECU and injectors
>in particular are expensive and hard to come by.
>034efi.com has a "kit" to allow you to use standard BOSCH style EFI
>injectors instead of the hitachi POS units.
>Last time I checked the hitachi injectors were going for $250+ each.
Is it worth changing out the injectors if I'm not having any
drivability issues? With the Bosch units give me better performance
>The CQ really is happier on the higher octane fuel but will run on
>87 if need be. Don't use cheap fuel as those expensive injectors are
>easy to clog up.
The car will not be driven many miles (relatively short commute) so
feeding it with premium only is not an issue.
>The CQ has a unique brake rotor but the G60 calipers are the same
>as the type 44 cars.
>Wheel bearings can be difficult to source the correct units- like
>the brake rotors.
>The dealers no longer ( at least here) stock/list the distb. rotor.
>The car has a plastic GEAR on the distb. ( at the cam) if it's the
>This can and will FAIL without notice. At least the new/refurb BOSCH
>units have a metal gear on them. AMHIK.
>Replacement dizzy is aprox. $250.
>Magnecor has a plug wire set that's about the same cost as the Beru
>( DO NOT USE THE BOSCH stuff it SUCKS) OEM units and they are
>MUCH , MUCH better.
>I've had good luck with www.autohausaz.com for parts along with
>www.sjmauto.com ( who also has a treasure trove of diagnostic info)
> >at on this car? I know the car needs some work, with some minor
>The instrument cluster has some quirks and the standard "old Audi"
> >annoying leaks and at least on window regulator that needs attention,
>These[window regs] are a bit different from the other cars and really spendy.
>I think the local dealer quoted my son $700 for a new regulator and cable
>assembly. That's about 3/4 of what he paid for his '90 Ginster CQ.
>The frame-less windows/seals are all starting to leak and the dealer
>may or may not be able to source new ones.
>The front windshield can develop leaks around the seals and the
>"rain tray" can also leak water into the car.
>The rear hatch seals can leak and are made of more Audi NLA
>unobtanium. The hyd. spring struts fail but are replaceable with non-OEM stuff.
>The '91 has a carbon-fiber center driveline that is VERY expensive
>to fix if it needs it. A 4K unit fits.
> >but I couldn't pass it up for the money. It drives well, with good
>Sounds like a nice find.
> >power and no odd noises except the exhaust hitting the axle shaft,
> >which some new donuts should take care of.
>Yep- the CQ's are fun cars to drive ( I've got 3 of them in the
>"family") and I enjoy it so much more than my type 44's even though the
>'91 200 20v tq is way faster.
> >Any info would be appreciated.
>Let me know if you have any specific questions- I've gotten around
>300k miles out of my CQ "fleet" so I'm pretty familiar with them.
Actually, one thing that I'll need to address is the lack of dash
lights. All lights, including instrument and switch, are out. But
when I turn on the headlights, the clock dims so it knows that the
lights are on. Is there a common failure point for the dash
lights? I was suspecting the dimmer, but other suggestions are welcome.
Thanks a bunch for the info.
> >J.B. Hebert
>Paul R. Cole:
>'83 Urq Helios Blue ( SAR) #900335
>'91 CQ Indigo Mettalic Blue, 158k miles- daily driver
>'91 200 TQ 20V- new DD @ 249k miles
>'91 200 TQ 20v- needs a few things but going strong @340k!!. Old
>cars-84x2 CGT, 89 200tq
>'90,91 V8q- SAR
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