[20v] The shopping list

J.B. Hebert jhebert at wrxtra.com
Fri Dec 21 19:11:46 PST 2007

At 06:58 PM 12/21/2007, you wrote:

>On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:18:35 -0500, J.B. Hebert wrote:
> >I'm curious... do Audi water pumps really only last 60k miles (the
>Hard to say- the RISK is that it wasn't done last time and/or it was 
>over tensioned and the bearings are ready to
>crap out. There's NO way to tell. Since the majority of the co$t is 
>the labor( or your time) to get at the thing it is far easier and 
>less risky to
>simply replace it "while your there".
>Same with the front crank seal and cam seal- you already have 
>everything apart anyway- the incremental cost vs. the risk of 
>failure is an easy

That is a valid reason and makes sense.  I will probably give the 
pump a thorough inspection when I have it apart and I'll make my 
decision at that point.

>BTW- don't "cheap" out and try to do the TB service without 
>completely removing the "tin" that shield the belt and covers the
>water pump. You can try to bend it out of the way but it's easier to 
>just do it right.

Good advise.

>I assume you have the 2084 crank lock tool. You can get by with a 
>3/4" 27mm socket , t-bar and a big cheater pipe to loosen the crank bolt.
>re-torque at 350 lb-ft WITHOUT the 2079 "helper" wrench.

I don't yet, but I'll be getting one soon.  Who has the best prices 
on the 2084?

> >interval that I change the timing belts at), or do people just change
> >them at that time since it's convenient and the water pump isn't very
> >expensive?  I've gotten close to 200k miles out of several water
> >pumps, so I'm wondering why so many people recommend more frequent 
> replacement.
>Mostly they don't want it[pump] to fail 20k miles after they've had 
>everything apart. You've familiar with Mr. Murphy's law
>regarding parts failure I presume?
>Also don't be surprised to find one or more of the brake slider pins 
>stuck. Also check the rear e-brake cables and actuation
>levers , they tend to fail on a regular basis.
>I've found that the brake caliper holders work better and longer if 
>you take them off the car ( it's 2 bolts per) and have them cleaned, bead
>blasted and then paint them ( mask the slider area) with a decent 
>paint like POR-15.
>This task also tends to make the slider pins and pads work much better.

I've inspected the brakes already and the slide pins look good and I 
don't have any seized pistons.  I will likely pull the caliper 
holders when I do the brake job, blast them, and powder coat them.

>Don't forget to get the correct brake lube for the slider pins. Also 
>use some dielectric grease on the plugs when you reassemble the

Check and check.  I do this kind of work for a living and always 
do.  Saves headaches down the road.

>New cap & rotor- are you reusing the plug wires? If not the Magnecor 
>units are far better than the OEM stuff.

I'm reusing the wires, since they look to be in good shape, are 
really expensive to replace, and shouldn't fail unless abused, 
etc.  Maybe next year. :)

Thanks again,


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