[Biturbos4] Dashboard center display

j y jimnetpa at yahoo.com
Sun Jan 30 02:29:39 EST 2005

Nah - VAG won't help u with this. I have a VAG - I don't remember it contacting that controller. Once u remove the cluster - it's a piece of cake to get to that piece and remove it from the instrument cluster (like the dealer would do). 
In fact, I have a Y2K S4 and I have the same problem that David described. I'm just gonna replace the who unit. The hardest part of the process - removing the *&^^** S4 instrument cluster and putting it back. That's why u will be charged $$$ by the Stealership (Dealer). 
To remove and re-install the instrument cluster should take about 45 mins (for each) the first time, u can cut it to 30 minutes (for each) after you've done it more than once.

"John M. Harrison" <johnmh at uwyo.edu> wrote:
A glance at the factory repair CD suggests that the whole dash needs to 
come out in order to remove the instrument cluster. Question is - can 
you get to any connectors on the back of the instrument cluster without 
doing all this. Another question - would Vag-Com reveal anything about 
this problem? It would be nice to verify that a controller chip isn't 
bad. I think the Vag tool would do this. You could try just hosing 
down the back of the instrument cluster with DeoxIT (this is the new 
name for Cramolin). I don't think you would damage anything by doing 
this, but I don't know if you get to the "target" either, assuming bad 
connector contacts (a major assumption). Be careful about sticking your 
hand in places where dangerous voltage/current might bite you.

Personally, I'd probably try spraying a little Cramolin around, if you 
can get anywhere near the back of the instrument cluster. Beyond that 
I'd probably go to the dealer. Their fix might just be to replace the 
entire cluster. The labor (as with so many things) probably makes the 
cost of the cluster pale in comparison. But then I'm still under 
warranty until July.

Probably not much help here - mostly idle speculation. Please let us 
know how it turns out Cramolin can be amazingly effective if you can 
get it to the offending contacts. I hosed down door switches in my old 
'83 Honda Accord from the outside without any disassembly whatsoever and 
enough got in there to work.. I was amazed. John H.

David Kavanagh wrote:

>I guess the "dash" is too broad a term. Specifically, the instrument
>cluster is what gets removed. Does that sound easier? (it is!).
>Anyway, just wanted to clarify.
>On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 22:08:50 -0500, Grant wrote:
>>Thanks John (and others who have provided lots of potential problem
>>areas to keep my eye out for). I'm familiar with Cramolin, which caig
>>used to distribute ( and have "lots"). I presume this is fairly
>>Is it feasible to kind of squirt it up at the back of the display from
>>However I'll re-iterate my *real* question - "can I get at this without
>>removing the dash, and if not, how hard is it to get the dash out?"
>>That's actually the much larger problem, at least for me.
>>Still hoping someone has taken it out and can either warn me off the
>>job, or steer me through it.
>>On Jan 29, 2005, at 9:58 PM, John M. Harrison wrote:
>>>I've had very good results with a contact cleaning and preserving
>>>product called DeoxIT from Caig Laboratories. This is the first
>>>thing I try on electrical and electronic connectors, switches, relay
>>>contacts, light bulb sockets, computer edge connectors, etc. Given
>>>the plethora of such connectors on modern automobiles, this is a good
>>>thing to have handy and try first before resorting to more extreme and
>>>potentially expensive diagnosis and repair. Its available at
>>>electronic shops or from the Caig website at www.caig.com. Contains
>>>no CFCs and doesn't eat or stain plastics or leave much messy residue
>>>- overspray pretty much evaporates away, so you can hose things down
>>>that you can't get to easily, for example the turn signal contacts in
>>>the steering column. Comes with a flexible plastic tube about 5" long
>>>that you can attach to the aerosol nozzle to get it into hard to reach
>>>places. This is how I use it most of the time. Highly recommended.
>>>No, I don't work for them or gain anything by this recommendation -
>>>just a very satisfied customer. Cheers and happy motoring.
>>>John M. Harrison Laramie, Wyoming
>>>2001.5 S4 Avant 6 speed silver stock loaded 35k miles
>>>still lovin' it - a definite keeper
>>>David Kavanagh wrote:
>>>>>From my experience on my '91 200q20v, the center display did require
>>>>some R&R. I started by re-soldering many of the connections in the
>>>>dash and display PC boards. I also disassembled the display module and
>>>>removed the display and interconnects (those little elasomer strips).
>>>>Once I re-assembled everything, the display worked fine.
>>>>I had a similar problem with the LCD display on a Fluke multi-meter. I
>>>>did the dis-assemble, re-assemble thing with the display (and the
>>>>elastomer connectors), and it worked great after that.
>>>>On Sat, 29 Jan 2005 17:35:39 -0500, Grant wrote:
>>>>>The center display (where the radio, temp, etc is displayed) is
>>>>>out and beginning to miss pixels and/or entire lines. I believe this
>>>>>is an LCD display, so there's no bulb involved.
>>>>>Does this sound like a failing voltage regulator? If so, is it
>>>>>easy to get at? Anyone know how or have any tricks for me?
>>>>>Car is an '00 S4.
>>>>>Biturbos4 mailing list
>>>>>Biturbos4 at www.audifans.com

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