[Biturbos4] Buying a 2000 S4
thehenrys at sympatico.ca
Sun Mar 5 12:36:46 EST 2006
Yes, the feedback from Keman was exceptional (and greatly appreciated). The
prices you listed for the timing belt and turbo's are from the dealer... I
probably would not use a dealer to do those job's (couldn't afford those
prices). I have an excellent mechanic that specializes in Audi and is less
then half the cost of the dealer. I can do many of the easier repair work,
so those things don't bother me -- but the turbo's are a concern for sure...
without being able to speak to the previous owner (maybe I can ask the
dealer to call him?) I won't know how good he was with the warm-up cool-down
procedure for the turbo's.
I am really hoping that I will find that this car has been well maintained
and many of the common service items have been dealt with already!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rohan Singh" <rohanj_singh at yahoo.com>
To: "Brent Henry" <thehenrys at sympatico.ca>; <biturbos4 at www.audifans.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Biturbos4] Buying a 2000 S4
> Hi Henry,
> If there is anyone who seems to know about this car,
> its Keman whose advice has been invaluable to me as
> well. I have a 2001 S4 which I bought used in in
> Toronto in 2004 with 78K kilometres (About 50K miles).
> I now have 115K kilometres and no issues except for
> basics such as:
> 1. Rear bearings had to be replaced
> 2. Oxygen sensor replacement
> 3. Rear bose speaker had to be replaced
> Definitely follow the warm up and cool down
> instructions. Its frustrating to have people whiz by
> you impatiently as you're waiting for the oil
> temperature gauge to go up but you can always catch up
> later! The dealer in Toronto recommends that the
> timing belt and water pump be replaced at 128K
> kilometres and says it will cost around Cdn $1,500. I
> asked about a turbo replacement in the unfortunate
> event that it ever happended to me - it's around Cdn
> Good luck with yours! I plan to keep mine till it
> dies. Its runs beautifully and every drive is an
> exhilirating experience!
> --- Keman <keman at interwolf.net> wrote:
> > Hi there Henry. Welcome to the biturbo s4 mailing
> > list.
> > i'm one of the lists resident (but somewhat dorment)
> > ex audi techs, and I
> > used to have an '01 S4 Avant. I would recommend you
> > check the following:
> > 100k issues or points of notice:
> > timing belt (and water pump) .. if it's not done
> > now, do it. While I've seen
> > them go 130k, I would do them every 60-80k miles. If
> > it does slip or break,
> > you'll experience the pain of replacing a lot of
> > intake valves on top of
> > pulling the engine and turbos, as that's the only
> > way to get the heads off.
> > If noone can tell you if it's been done or not, peer
> > at the belt by prying
> > back the timing belt cover a few mm and look at the
> > belt with a flashlight.
> > If it looks fresh and new and black, it's new. If it
> > looks worn and old,
> > well.. it's not.
> > coolant: Right now it should be fresh and bright
> > pink, not brownish or
> > orangish. Don't base it off the coolant overflow
> > bottle, as it will be
> > somewhat discolored by now. But, those are only $28
> > at the dealer and I
> > recommend replacing them as they come with a new
> > cap, if/when you do the
> > coolant flush. It's long life coolant, but 100k
> > miles is a long time and
> > that's when it should be flushed. The only drain is
> > the block drain, located
> > between the trans and engine directly underneith
> > looking straight up through
> > the bellhousing. It's an 8mm green hex key bolt, it
> > will be very tight and
> > need an 8mm hex driver and breaker bar, and needs a
> > new O-ring (available at
> > the dealer) once removed. You need a vacuum coolant
> > filler to put coolant
> > into these engines properly, so either borrow one or
> > pay the dealer to do
> > this job for you.
> > Coolant leaks: Inspect for any pink crustys.
> > Particulary look into the V of
> > the engine from above once the middle engine dress
> > cover is removed, peering
> > in at a 45 degree angle through the small gap below
> > the throttle body. If
> > you see any pink in there, your afterrun pump or
> > coolant hardline is
> > leaking. Also look in back of the engine on the
> > passenger side. Any pink
> > crustys = leak.
> > Battery: If it looks old and original, the cells
> > probably need topping off
> > with distilled water. It's a maintanence item but
> > few actually know that
> > it's supposed to be topped off regularly. Just twist
> > each cell cover off and
> > there's a little MIN/MAX bar on each one.
> > Diverter valves: While looking for coolant leaks,
> > start the engine up and
> > reach normal operating temperature. Put your hand on
> > the two black roundish
> > looking valves, roughly 3" in diameter that point
> > towards the throttle body.
> > There will be small vacuum lines running to each. If
> > you feel either
> > "vibrating" or making fluttering or honking noises
> > at idle, it might be
> > shot. To look further, if you pinch off one of the
> > vacuum lines with a pair
> > of pliars and it goes away, that valve is shot. They
> > die often, aftermarkets
> > that don't break (they use a piston instead of a
> > diaphram) are available for
> > a couple hundred bucks. Highly recommended as I ate
> > through about 4 sets of
> > the updated TT ones by 96k miles. They decrease
> > strain on the turbos when
> > you lift off the throttle, so.. when they're dead,
> > well... there's more
> > strain = wear and tear.
> > Oil leaks: Check the rear passenger and front
> > drivers side of the V of the
> > engine. Any wetness would be the legendary timing
> > chain tensioner gaskets.
> > They'll almost never leak so bad as to create a
> > steady drip of oil, but they
> > will start to leak and get wetter and wetter, making
> > some mess as mileage
> > goes up. These can be spendy to have replaced, with
> > dealers charging around
> > 8 hours of labor for both sides. If you've not done
> > it before, I wouldn't
> > try it yourself as you can drop tiny bits into the
> > engine. I used to use a
> > small magnet to catch them. Valve covers- these
> > start getting wet at 100k
> > miles. Loosening all the 10mm nuts that hold them on
> > and then re-torquing to
> > 115 INCH/lbs working from the center nut outwards in
> > a clockwise pattern,
> > slowly but surely, they may stop leaking forever. Or
> > you can just change
> > them.
> > Spark plugs: Even though they're double platinum the
> > engine still eats them
> > like candy. Misfire codes are a telltail sign. I'd
> > swap them every 25k miles
> > if you like to get on it.
> > Oil: 5W-40 synthetic is a good idea. 0W-40 German
> > Castrol is nice too, 0W-30
> > works alright. Basically, anything synthetic is
> > great for this engine, and
> > non synthetic is bad. You can tell what it's had all
> > it's life by looking at
> > the oil fill cap. Take it off and look inside. If
> > it's shiny metal, it's had
> > synthetic all it's life. If it's crusty and caked
> > and brown, it's not. The
> > more gelatinous cake under the cap, the less
> > synthetic oil it's seen in it's
> > life.
> > Interior: The dot matrix display is a common
> > failure. New gauge clusters
> > have bugfixed designs that don't drop dots or lines
> > (usually) but fetch a
> > high price, $750 or so (remanufactured, which is
> > good cuz it's bugfixed).
> > I'm a big fan of Stabilant 22 and CAIG's DeOxit D5,
> > but I've not read of a
> > success using it on this problem. It does resemble a
> > connection type of
> > problem between the display and the driver board, as
> > mine used to drop a
> > line but only when it was really cold out. The gauge
> > cluster comes out
> > without touching the rest of the dashboard, it's
> > held in with a couple of
> > torx screws accessable by popping the top steering
> > wheel trim off. You'll
> > have to reach in behind once the cluster is out a
> > few inches and pop the
> > spring-cam-lock connectors (all three) on the back
> > kind of blind to get it
> > all the way out.
> > Speakers: If they rattle with bass, they're probably
> > in need of replacement.
> > The Bose Symphony audi system doesn't take kindly to
> > aftermarket
> > replacements (it ends up sounding like crap) and the
> > factory replacements
> > are around $90 each. In a sedan, the rear speakers
> > are accessed from above,
> > not below. Kind of a pain. The door panels are much
> > easier to remove.
> > Stereo: If it changes channels on you, it's
> > posessed. They do that
> > sometimes. If it stops working, it'll need
> > replacement. They've gotten MUCH
> > cheaper last I checked. < $200 at the dealer now for
> > a reman if you provide
> > your old one as the core.
> > Rear diff: Sometimes the seals on the output shafts
> > get a little wet.
> > Wheel bearings: They'll be either freshly replaced,
> > or needing it soon. They
> > like to abandon ship at 100k miles. But they do so
> > rather gracefully, giving
> > you 10-15k miles of warning with a steady increase
> > in rattling noise.
> > O2 sensors: These don't like to live forever. There
> > are 4. The rear 2 are
> > easy. The front 2 ... well. Only easy if you've done
> > them before.
> > Coolant temp sensor: These get flakey. They're easy,
> > check out audiworld for
> > instructions. If the temp display is anything but in
> > the middle at normal
> > operating temps, the sensor is toast.
> === message truncated ===
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