[200q20v] sticking caliper
ssgacc at yahoo.com
Mon Aug 21 17:06:11 EDT 2000
--- Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> wrote:
> I'd be interested in knowing how you go about
> stripping out the innards of
> the caliper if you try it, Brett. After removal of
> the piston (it just
> screws off the stud it screws in and out on), you're
> looking at the stud
> coming through what looks to be a washer held in
> place by a circlip that's
> too far in to be manipulated by any of the circlip
> pliars in my assortment.
> I think the mechanism by which the parking brake
> lever transfers pressure
> to the cylinder is buried behind that washer, and I
> think that's where the
> problem of sticky rear calipers lies.
I found several ways to remove the circlip. One is to
use a seal pick. Once you get one end out of the
groove it's pretty easy. Under that is a spring
washer, the piston stud and a "pill". That is what
actuates the parking brake. Once you remove these,
you can pull the parking brake lever out. The rust
was on the machined surfaces at the base of the piston
stud and on the shaft for the parking brake lever.
There are o-rings on the base of the piston stud and
the top of the parking brake shaft under the seal.
Mine were stiff and flattened. I got replacements at
PepBoys in the bin that has cotter pins, grease
fittings, etc. The oil seal under the brake lever was
also shot. 16mmx24mmx6mm, I believe. In stock and
around $1 at my bearing supply house. Once you do a
caliper, it's not so hard after that. I had to figure
out how to get it apart and together again. All the
parts cost about $10-12 to do 2, including the cal.
kits. Much better than $130. per plus $80 core, and
shipping. Damage seems to be from never flushing the
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