[200q20v] sticking caliper

Kneale Brownson knotnook at traverse.com
Mon Aug 21 21:40:16 EDT 2000

Great stuff, Jim.  If only we had a Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc.  The one 
franchised parts place we've had here in the rural northwoods went belly up 
after a couple years.  Probably from paying for disposal of all the used 
oil people put at their doorstep.

At 04:06 PM 08/21/2000 -0700, james accordino wrote:

>--- Kneale Brownson <knotnook at traverse.com> wrote:
> > I'd be interested in knowing how you go about
> > stripping out the innards of
> > the caliper

>I found several ways to remove the circlip.  One is to
>use a seal pick.  Once you get one end out of the
>groove it's pretty easy.  Under that is a spring
>washer, the piston stud and a "pill".  That is what
>actuates the parking brake.  Once you remove these,
>you can pull the parking brake lever out.  The rust
>was on the machined surfaces at the base of the piston
>stud and on the shaft for the parking brake lever.
>There are o-rings on the base of the piston stud and
>the top of the parking brake shaft under the seal.
>Mine were stiff and flattened.  I got replacements at
>PepBoys in the bin that has cotter pins, grease
>fittings, etc.  The oil seal under the brake lever was
>also shot.  16mmx24mmx6mm, I believe.  In stock and
>around $1 at my bearing supply house.  Once you do a
>caliper, it's not so hard after that.  I had to figure
>out how to get it apart and together again.  All the
>parts cost about $10-12 to do 2, including the cal.
>kits.  Much better than $130. per plus $80 core, and
>shipping.  Damage seems to be from never flushing the
>brake fluid.
>Good Luck
>Jim Accordino

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