From paul at heneghan.co.uk Sun Oct 1 02:34:05 2000 From: paul at heneghan.co.uk (Paul Heneghan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:07 2003 Subject: Help - front Dif is not unlocking In-Reply-To: <200009300219.WAA22459@audifans.com> Message-ID: > From: Penasack_Tim@emc.com > The front dif on my 86 4KQ is not unlocking but the rear locks > and unlocks. > If I put the car on 4 jack stands and run it - it usually unlocks. Haven't > tried it since my last spirited drive. On my 1984 80q (same car), the centre diff (you can't lock the front diff - I presume you mean the centre diff) has always been a bit unwilling to unlock than the rear diff. Probably something to do with the extra linkage that goes from the actuator on the rear diff to the locking lever on the centre diff. I remember once driving 20 miles on a motorway waiting for the centre diff to unlock and it never did. Ways to unlock it include: Spirited driving - it often unlocks as the revs drop when changing from 2nd to 3rd gear change (due to increased vacuum ?). Drive it in reverse for a couple of seconds Turn a corner. Once when all these techniques failed, I checked it out and found that although the linkage was OK, the rear diff mountings had totally disintegrated. Replacing those sorted out the diff locking problem. Paul From paul at heneghan.co.uk Sun Oct 1 02:34:07 2000 From: paul at heneghan.co.uk (Paul Heneghan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start In-Reply-To: <200009301603.MAA04065@audifans.com> Message-ID: > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Then I switched the battery back, and the REAL problems > started. The car won't start (no spark) and the ECU > cnsistently stores 'coolant sensor'. Also the tachometer > jumps to 3500 revs as soon as the key is turned. Might not be related, but . . . I saw these symptoms once on a VW that I'd stored for a couple of years. Turned out to be a 12V battery with a couple of dead cells. Completely confused the tacho (read half scale all the time), indicator relay etc. I wouldn't think the computer would be too keen on low volts either! Paul From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 01:01:19 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Looking for Bob Myers References: <4.3.1.2.20000930103501.00bb1520@traverse.com> Message-ID: <39D6B70F.A9FAC9D4@worldnet.att.net> He's currently in Atlanta for the ALMS series - won't be back to the list until tomorrow eve at the earliest. Kneale Brownson wrote: > Try: rmyers@oak.total-web.net > > At 10:15 AM 09/30/2000 -0400, Adam P. Brodeur wrote: > > >Hello, > > > >I would like to get some information about having some window decals > >made up. Please contact me off list if possible. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Adam Brodeur > >84 4ksq > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From danz at voicenet.com Sun Oct 1 01:14:00 2000 From: danz at voicenet.com (Dan Z. Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor References: <20000930233005.28138.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <002f01c02b57$e04d8620$6ccffcd1@andrewlu> Message-ID: <39D6BA08.C15D2F19@voicenet.com> Andrew et al The passenger side O2 sensor removal is relatively easy. The driver side, well, what the &^%$ where they thinking? The trajectory of the sensor is right through the ABS unit. You will need a universal joint on the socket to get it out. Thanks for the socket size correction. 1/2" worked fine, but seemed just slightly loose. -DanZ Andrew Lundy wrote: > Hi Bill, > > I also was faced with this problem about four months ago!! I finally got it > out after cutting the wire and putting a 22mm(I think?) deepwell socket on > it!! First thing to do is switch to metric so you don't round it off any > worse!! > > Which side are you on?? I did the passengers side on mine. I was able to > put the 22mm deepwell socket on it and a few extension and get at it from > above the engine(without taking ANYTHING loose). I just put a breaker bar > on the extensions and with a bit of force it popped free!! You may be able > to do the drivers side the same but I'm not sure on that??? > > This was after spending about 3 days of soaking it in penetrating oil and > finally getting so pi##ed I broke down and cut the wire!! > > This is the best advice I can offer!!! > Good Luck!! > --- > Andrew Lundy > fast928@prodigy.net > 90 80Q > 91 90 > 95 90Q > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Magliocco" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 6:30 PM > Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor > > > Even using plenty of "blaster" pentrating oil, I have > > done a nice job of rounding the edges of the 7/8" nut > > (or metric equivalent) on one of the oxygen sensors on > > my new V6 toy. Was using one of those specially made > > deep "oxygen sensor" sockets that is partially cut > > away (where the wires go). > > > > Am afraid to cut the wires off the end and get a > > standard deep socket, because I may not succeed. > > > > Any ideas from the gallery? Cold engine or hot? > > Apply heat to the sensor...whatever? > > > > TIA, Bill > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro -- =========================================== Dan Z. Johnson, Editor The Mosin Nagant Webpage http://www.voicenet.com/~danz/MN/ From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 01:32:28 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: ALMS report Message-ID: <39D6BE5C.C26AD1A2@worldnet.att.net> Audi squeaks by with a 1-2 win, Panoz charging hard at the end for 2nd after the final yellow, number 77 throws a blocking move... In GTS, Corvette charges hard in the last 4 laps and overdives the Viper leader into a spinoff - Corvette goes 1,3. In 1000 miles of driving, the last 4 laps, the distance between the top 3 ccars in both classes was under 2 seconds! The evening was spent watching a Direct TV Speedvision feed on the side of the Rogers/Corell RV. BMW - #43 does a 360 the hard way early on when he catches air in a Mercedes Lemans manner and walks away. #42 damages the rear wing & suspension in the final 1/2 hour and takes himself outa contention in a seriously loooong pit stop. The qlist/QCUSA was very well represented with over 65 cars, only one of which was a V8 (Ed?...). A superb condition local 87.5 CGT arrived late - 130hp eng and rear disks - had never heard of the qlist... Most unusual older Audi - Paul Cassara's early 5Ktq in Sport colors with Jetta headlights. Nicest older Audi - a drop dead gorgeous tornado red 4000CSq, lowered. Several early Avants, one each 91 200 tqa and tqs, urS4s and S6s abounded, 6 tts, one tt roadster, coupla coupe qs including Erics 'runnin iron'. Most unusual non - Audi: the '61 35' Gatorojo custom coach brought by the kindly and erudite Unka Bart. A good time was had by all - except the poor 70# doe that narrowly avoided being hit TWICE by the SAME Porsche GT in the first 15 minutes of the race at the chicane. Rare to see a caution due to frantic wildlife... From gerard at poboxes.com Sun Oct 1 07:55:32 2000 From: gerard at poboxes.com (Gerard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1992 - 1995 Audi 500 SEL - Cape Town South Africa References: <0DB13FAA2C83D411A33800508B6BAA39168383@spdcexcs2.metropolitan.co.za> <39D5FB3D.D1A472DC@online.no> Message-ID: <39D6C3C4.CEF3E798@poboxes.com> Quite simple really. All type-44 cars were called the 500 here, as opposed to the 100/200/5000 and so on elsewhere. When the type-C4 came out it retained the designation of 500 until the universal name of A6 started. The type-44 was available in 5 levels: 400, 500, 500E, 500SE. Most with the 2.2 litre motor, some with an 1800 I think (not really sure with the 400). The c4 then offered the 2.8 V6 and the top model was the 500SEL, "L" probably for something silly like "luxury" or "limo". G. -- gerard@poboxes.com q-list info: 1989/90 200 (mac13a MC-1) From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:22 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: > That "3500 rpm" make me wonder if it isn't trying to spit out a trouble > code, the old fashioned way. The MAC05/MAC07 way, with the KG engine? It looks _just_ like that - the needle slewed straight to 3500 and sat there as steady as a rock. Had me digging out the old stuff, too. Then it stopped happening as abruptly as it started. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:26 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: >> Reassembled, tried the starter. Just the same as before. >> Tried again - started and purred l.ike a kitten. Drove it for 15 >> miles - cut out once. Tacho dropped to zero, even though >> the engine was still running. > Sounds to me like an ignition switch on its way out. BTDT. The coolant > code could be there if the power to the electronic thermoswitch failed. Good theory - especially since the 'lights/radio are on' warning buzzer has also changed its behaviour. > Also, don't forget to check the ground connections located below the > fuse panel. I've had two type 44s with loose grounding bolts which > caused all sorts of mayhem... Again, another good one. I found the manifold grounds loose and got all happy for a moment or two ... -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:31 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: brake pedal gets slushy when held down Message-ID: > When I keep the brake pedal depressed for 30 seconds > or so, it starts to give and slip towards the floor. > Letting it back up and pumpimg it once alleviates the > problem. is this the pump or air in the line or > something else? 86 coupe gt. Master cylinder. You are not very far away from complete brake failure. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:35 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 200q exhaust manifolds Message-ID: > so i new it would happen.....at 220k mi, the exhaust > manifold has cracked, so the question is who & what is > the best way to go for purchasing a replacement (high > performance)system. a) Change the right engine mount. b) Check the duct that's supposed to flood it with cooling air at speed. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:40 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: >>All European cars on the European market have only > one rear foglight, > err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights > '93 V6 80 quattro Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:59 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? Message-ID: > I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? They were standard after the 1985 model year and it's a very common retrofit here in the UK. The parts for a post-1985 car simply bolt up to an earlier car. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:38:08 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: '88 5kcstq in-tank issues Message-ID: > Anyway, I fixed it. Here's is a pic of what it looked like when I > found it. http://www.neta.com/~auditude/fuelpump.jpg > It's a high res pic. Since I bitch so much about the ones who get it wrong, balance requires me to comment on those who get it right. A URL and notification (and even a warning that the image is BIG) is just wonderful compared with the simple 'post the binary straight to the list' appraoch. Thanks to Ken and others who do it right - it's much appreciated by those who _PAY_ (throught the nose) for Internet access. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:54 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: > Depending upon the wattage of the bulb you use, you may be overloading > the wiring to the driver's side rear fog by splicing in the other > socket to have two rear fogs. Be aware, the concept of having only one > rear fog light (well explained in someone's, I unfortunately forgot > whoms, sorry, post) is a safety issue: Yes it is, and the post was probably mine. Running with two fog lights is illegal in many European countries. In the UK, it depends on the year of first registration - I think the legal requirement for a single light on the offside of the car is from 1 September 1993, though I'm not absolutely sure. The reason is that twin rear fogs mask the 'startle reflex' effect deliberately designed into brake lights. Rear sides are 5w in the UK, and brake lights 21w. Taking reflector designs into account - side (marker) lights have a wide spread, brake lights are focussed into more of a beam - the perceived brightness difference is 1:64 at the eye. The eye is a remarkably accomodating organ, but this difference is enough to 'startle' it and cause a reaction - even if the change occurs in peripheral vision. If both sides have rear fogs, the ratio between overall apparent luminance with and without the brake lights is reduced to 1:2 or 1:4 - not enough to generate a startle reflex in peripheral vision. Yes, you'll see the brake lights come on if you're looking directly at the back of the car. But if you just happen to glance away at the instruments you're dependent on that startle reflex. Also the law in the UK allows their use only when visibility is less than 50 metres and specifically forbids their use in rain. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:49 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor Message-ID: > Even using plenty of "blaster" penetrating oil, I have > done a nice job of rounding the edges of the 7/8" nut > (or metric equivalent) on one of the oxygen sensors on > my new V6 toy. Was using one of those specially made > deep "oxygen sensor" sockets that is partially cut > away (where the wires go). > Am afraid to cut the wires off the end and get a > standard deep socket, because I may not succeed. If I ever catch up with the **** [insert exceedingly offensive epithet] who designed the OXS sensor placement on the 90 quattro 20V I will do something that will require him/her to claim a permanent disability pension. There is no way to remove and replace the upper downpipe to catalyser clamp without removing the sensor, and no way to get anything but a proper split 22m socket on it. Of course, after ten years' residence, the OXS sensor doesn't want to budge and the socket just opens out ... Anyway: a) Use a proper (expen$ive, unfortunately) OXS sensor socket. b) Once the socket's in place on the sensor, apply as many hose clips (Jubilee clips) as will fit around the base of the socket to stop it opening out and jumping round. c) Apply heat if possible. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:44 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1991 200T Message-ID: > All European cars on the European market have only one rear foglight, but many > (or even most) Japanese cars have two foglights. I dont know why, but there is > no law (AFAIK) that mandates only one light. Oh, yes - there is. Construction and Use Regulations in the UK, from about 1993 onwards. > Anyway, there is no way to mistake the rear fog lights for brakelights, IMHO. > The loght output is about twice that of the brake light, even though both use a > 21 watt bulb. It's all in the reflector/lense. Yes, you see the difference when you're staring at the car. But the peripheral startle reflex is masked when you're looking elsewhere, such as in your mirrors or at the instruments. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:38:03 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: >> From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk >> Then I switched the battery back, and the REAL problems >> started. The car won't start (no spark) and the ECU >> cnsistently stores 'coolant sensor'. Also the tachometer >> jumps to 3500 revs as soon as the key is turned. > Might not be related, but . . . > I saw these symptoms once on a VW that I'd stored for a couple of years. > Turned out to be a 12V battery with a couple of dead cells. Completely > confused the tacho (read half scale all the time), indicator relay etc. I > wouldn't think the computer would be too keen on low volts either! I've seen very odd behaviour in ur-quattros with failing alternators - persistent ABS and brake pressure warnings, for instance. So that was my first port of call and the original reason I swapped the batteries. The batteries are identical - both Audi parts - and mine has written on it: "Changed at 97k miles, 27 Jan 1999". I'd like to think it hasn't failed yet, but I'm keeping an open mind for the present. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From tnas at euronet.nl Sun Oct 1 11:52:35 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001001104828.00ae9400@mail.euronet.nl> "John Corbishley" wrote: >I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > > >Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? If your car wasn't equipped with one from new, you have to go aftermarket. The OE items are mounted on a special bracket, and even the shape of the inner hood panels is different. We compared this on a CGT without and an Urq with the struts recently. Tom From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 05:58:53 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: <20001001115853.21034.qmail@web801.mail.yahoo.com> >> err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights >> '93 V6 80 quattro >Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. just been to check..both light up. But, on closer inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run out of proper car wire. mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 07:06:16 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database Message-ID: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Guys Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site that gave part numbers for car parts I bookmarked it but when i go back i can only find the german version would someone please refresh my memory cheers mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From naitove at bellatlantic.net Sun Oct 1 11:11:29 2000 From: naitove at bellatlantic.net (John Naitove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter Message-ID: <39D7460F.BE82B026@bellatlantic.net> Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of the car or the back of the car? John Naitove From lindgre at online.no Sun Oct 1 17:13:21 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1992 - 1995 Audi 500 SEL - Cape Town South Africa References: <0DB13FAA2C83D411A33800508B6BAA39168383@spdcexcs2.metropolitan.co.za> <39D5FB3D.D1A472DC@online.no> <39D6C3C4.CEF3E798@poboxes.com> Message-ID: <39D74681.7EA465C@online.no> Gerard wrote: > The type-44 was available in 5 levels: 400, 500, 500E, 500SE. > Most with the 2.2 litre motor, some with an 1800 I think (not really > sure with the 400). I see. 400 with 4-cyl engine, and 500 with 5-cyl engine! Just liek Volvos were once, 240 with 4-cyl and 260 with 6-cyl. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From lindgre at online.no Sun Oct 1 17:19:06 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Diesel motors, etc. References: <388008499.970354353967.JavaMail.root@web425-wra> Message-ID: <39D747DA.F4B7C11@online.no> larry leung wrote: > Yeah, but how would you EVER fit one into a type 44, B3 or anything else in the line? The fit of the 5 seems tight enough! The 6-cylinder VW diesel was nver used in ANY VW or Audi passenger car. The only VW with this engine was the LT delivery van, which is bigger than the Vanagon. It had front engine and rear wheel drive, teh only VW ever to offer this configuration. The fact that it wouldn fit in any Audi just shows the size of the Volvo 700-series PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From critchie1 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 15:33:01 2000 From: critchie1 at hotmail.com (Christopher Ritchie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement Message-ID: Just finished checking the archives. Still a little confused. Can anyone post the procedure for replacing the outer CV joint boot (on an '88 5KSQ)? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 11:44:07 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database In-Reply-To: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001104344.00aa5ae0@traverse.com> Click on the icon of a flag at the top of the page and you can select the English version. At 06:06 AM 10/01/2000 -0700, mike wrote: >Guys > >Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site >that gave part numbers for car parts > >I bookmarked it but when i go back i can only find the >german version > >would someone please refresh my memory > >cheers > >mike > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! >http://photos.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From caramieschnell at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 10:34:02 2000 From: caramieschnell at hotmail.com (caramie schnell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: for sale: '89 90 quattro, red with black leather interior, all options. it has 65,000 miles on it. caramieschnell@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From pdooley at gte.net Sun Oct 1 12:34:23 2000 From: pdooley at gte.net (Pat Dooley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Diesel motors, etc. In-Reply-To: <39D747DA.F4B7C11@online.no> Message-ID: <000401c02b9b$8c42fee0$1525273f@patco> I think the Volvo layout is the difference. The 700's are rear drive. The motor doesn't have to be shoved forward to accommodate the transaxle placement to reach front wheels, ALA Audi. > > The fact that it wouldn fit in any Audi just shows the size of > the Volvo 700-series > > PerL > 92 100 2,8q Avant > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Audi_80 at email.msn.com Sun Oct 1 13:13:48 2000 From: Audi_80 at email.msn.com (Alexander van Gerbig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Need Auto Trans mount for '89 90 References: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD105AFE31C@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com> <39D668E6.F0277120@netconnx.net> Message-ID: <000f01c02bc2$95d9c2a0$0101fea9@99e6s> 893 399 151A Rubber Mount $85.00 This is what I paid at German Auto Recyclers, new. It is slightly different from the old stock ones. Though it's a redesigned or upgraded deal. Honestly give them a shot and see what they can do. Took them a week to get mine, but the price beats all of the ones you have been quoted. Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 The Audi 80 Pages----------------- http://surf.to/the80pages.com North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 13:31:54 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database References: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002301c02bc5$1cba58a0$fd8f6395@big1> http://app5.bosch.de/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/BoschVer?language=English ----- > Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site > that gave part numbers for car parts From jcnf at uswest.net Sun Oct 1 11:32:54 2000 From: jcnf at uswest.net (joe fyffe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter References: <39D7460F.BE82B026@bellatlantic.net> Message-ID: <39D76736.EF13C50E@uswest.net> My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They should be facing toward the back. Joe John Naitove wrote: > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of > the car or the back of the car? > > John Naitove > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 13:40:47 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Avant 85 Parting out (Ottawa, ON) Message-ID: <003101c02bc6$5aa5ace0$fd8f6395@big1> My 85 Avant S parts car is going to be moved soon, stripped, and tossed. trans/diff mine bomb/pump mine turbo suspension/brakes/wheels is mine (but my S bits are available, I guess) rear seat is spoken for sunroof is mine Pretty much all else is up for grabs, shipping possible (it's in Ottawa Ontario) interior is in great shape! From kevphill at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 10:46:11 2000 From: kevphill at yahoo.com (Kevin Phillips) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 Message-ID: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but maybe it should have been the M-401. Thanks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From lubedealer at juno.com Sun Oct 1 12:50:42 2000 From: lubedealer at juno.com (lubedealer@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Can I do a Search on archives/ Message-ID: <20001001.115042.-344779.0.lubedealer@juno.com> How do you do a search on the archives?___ Lookin to replace my headliner in my 87 5000sQ Thanks, Bob _________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 14:02:49 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 References: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005a01c02bc9$7707e1c0$fd8f6395@big1> I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks From critchie1 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 18:44:23 2000 From: critchie1 at hotmail.com (Christopher Ritchie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal Questions ('88 5KSQ) Message-ID: I need to replace the radiator on my '88 5KSQ. Some questions on how to remove the old one. 1. Can the radiator come out by itself? That is, without the fan assembly and the A/C condensor. I can see where they are all bolted together on the tops. Is there anything holding them together at the bottoms? 2. Will it clear the hydraulic pump? Or, does that need to be moved? 3. Any helpful hints? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 13:01:14 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: free at last! (was stuck oxy sensor) Message-ID: <20001001190114.580.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> The subject line says it all: A good overnight drenching in "blaster" penetrating oil, along with using a deep 22mm socket (1/2" drive) did the trick. I broke the top of the sensor off with vise grips to shorten the sensor enough to fit inside the deep socket. This includes cutting the wires off. Then with a 12" extension and a small hammer, I beat down on the affair to insure the socket was seated on the remnants of the hex (somewhat rounded off yesterday). Once I heard the socket making solid contact with the exh. manifold, I was set. One good 1/4 turn from my breaker bar, and voila'! The re-use of the existing harness to accomodate the Bosch 13913 only adds 10~15 minutes of stripping, soldering and use of heat shrink tubing per sensor. That part is easy for me because I do that stuff for a living. The money saved makes it well worth the time. I don't know who came up with the sub, but THANK YOU! Lunch at the Waffle House is on me (whenever you are in Atlanta). Thanks too to those who put the $0.02 on getting the old ones out. The sensors appear to have a date code of "47/92" on them...which leads me to believe that they've been in there since this '93 100 was built. Did I decode the date code correctly? Now, my tech tip-disconnect the battery while you're doing this work. Not only is it safer for you and the car, you'll also erase the fault memory from the ECU. Won't it be nice to see "$$$$" when I dump the codes after a drive? Oops, there I go thinking of the type $$ again! One last question on this topic...will this Bosch 13913 oxy sensor also replace the one in an '86 5kT? If I wind up keeping the car, it's probably next on the list to replace. Thanks again to all, Bill Magliocco 2 VW Diesels, a better running 100 and a sick 5kT __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 13:04:19 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in Seattle, WA. Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very factory: The non-factory mods: 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) The factory-looking mods: 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper cover assemblies were painted full body color. 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that were very nice looking. I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. -- Software suppliers are trying to make their software packages more "user- friendly"... Their best approach, so far, has been to take all the old brochures, and stamp the words, "user-friendly" on the cover. - Bill Gates From Kevphill at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 16:01:33 2000 From: Kevphill at yahoo.com (Kevin Phillips) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 References: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> <005a01c02bc9$7707e1c0$fd8f6395@big1> Message-ID: <004a01c02bda$0b465f00$f1975ed1@natedog> Well I can exclusively that the Mobil M-301 filter won't fit the MC-2 engine, too fat by quarter inch or so. So I compared the internal structure of the Mobil filter and the Bosch that I had and they looked to be of similar high quality with anti-drain + pressure by-pass valves. I used Mobil Tri-synthetic 15-50 on sale at Kmart for $3.50/q for the 200 and the Saab got a Mobil filter and Castrol 10-30 synthetic. ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Bigelow To: ; Kevin Phillips Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 13:02 Subject: Re: oil filters for MC-2 I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From GMBCHEF at aol.com Sun Oct 1 16:39:07 2000 From: GMBCHEF at aol.com (GMBCHEF@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Could be a Tresor 4000? -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: "Mark L. Chang" Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:04:19 -0700 (PDT) Size: 3009 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/c92ec38f/attachment.eml From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 13:43:40 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database Message-ID: <20001001194340.3012.qmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks....got it now mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 13:48:20 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) In-Reply-To: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Message-ID: On Sun, 1 Oct 2000 GMBCHEF@aol.com wrote: > Could be a Tresor 4000? Don't think so - no other body kit stuff was evident. -- Windows NT crashed. I am the Blue Screen of Death. No one hears your screams. -- Peter Rothman From mx at snet.net Sun Oct 1 13:48:23 2000 From: mx at snet.net (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) References: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D79507.52EB0E01@snet.net> Sounds like an 84 with later bumpers. Bob GMBCHEF@aol.com wrote: > Could be a Tresor 4000? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) > Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:04:19 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Mark L. Chang" > To: Quattro List > > Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in > Seattle, WA. > > Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things > off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very > factory: > > The non-factory mods: > 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) > 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) > 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) > > The factory-looking mods: > 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper > cover assemblies were painted full body color. > 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. > 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about > knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: > http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg > But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that > were very nice looking. > > I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find > it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. > > -- > Software suppliers are trying to make their software packages more "user- > friendly"... Their best approach, so far, has been to take all the old > brochures, and stamp the words, "user-friendly" on the cover. > - Bill Gates > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 13:55:31 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 Message-ID: <20001001195531.11075.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> Heya, Not sure how this thread started but I use the Mobil MI-205 filter. this is the one spec'd for the Audi Turbo motors. ANd as Kevin mentioned (I think it was Kevin) the Mobil filters are of very high quality. I would venture to say just as high of quality as the Audi filters (Mahle / Mann) but maybe a better filter media. Its a very High flow rate but high filtration synthetic media. l8r Todd Kevin Phillips wrote: Well I can exclusively that the Mobil M-301 filter won't fit the MC-2 engine, too fat by quarter inch or so. So I compared the internal structure of the Mobil filter and the Bosch that I had and they looked to be of similar high quality with anti-drain + pressure by-pass valves. I used Mobil Tri-synthetic 15-50 on sale at Kmart for $3.50/q for the 200 and the Saab got a Mobil filter and Castrol 10-30 synthetic. ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Bigelow To: ; Kevin Phillips Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 13:02 Subject: Re: oil filters for MC-2 I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattroHeya, Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/64a2e752/attachment.htm From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 14:22:30 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors Message-ID: <20001001202230.13440.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> There are quite a few vendors that have slotted rotors. If you want zinc plated ones then I know that 2-Bennett has them available but at like $200+ a set I think. I know there is a company in Cadada that advertises in European car that has very cheap prices after exchange rate and will slot them. They are Brembo disks and I think they actually order them slotted from Brembo but they may do it in house. Which is not a problem for slotting. just never buy drilled rotors that are drilled after the fact. I am using 2-bennet rear slotted rotors as they will drill the 5-bolt pattern into them for me since I need 4kq rears with 5-bolt holes. ANd I get the zinc plated rotor as well. No one else would drill the 5-holes for a reasonable price. :-) IF you call around though, there are others that do this. I just cant think of their names. Wolf Sport maybe. ANd there is a Brake only place in EC that has them. Good luck. l8r Todd Ameer Antar wrote: Where can you get slotted rotors for 5k's? I bought the powerdiscs for only a few bucks more than the OE discs. Are there slotted rotors avail. for as good a price? Also, are there any places w/ zinc coated discs? The only one I can find are drilled, which is not what I'm looking for...too espensive + shorter life. The zinc coated ones look nice though and keep from rusting where the pads don't touch. Any advice appreciated. -ameer '84 5kT...190k At 04:32 AM 9/30/00, you wrote: >While a hot brake disk may not have moisture on it, Driving around in >deep snow and heavy deep rain sure as hell does get them wet and after say >10 minutes on the highway in 6" snow when you slam on the brakes (or >rather ease into them) wet disks dont stop. IMHO (and the exp of many >rally drivers) slotted rotors do clean the moisure off and thus eliminate >that moment of panic when you feel you have no brakes. Granted, cold pads >sometimes dont work to well but some do. Comparison is with same pads >that work great when cold, jsut not wet. > > Also, the cleaning action also works for Mud, dirt, grime (that > includes brake dust) etc. I like draditional slotted rotors better than > powerdisc's because they clean better. water is a non issue of > comparison but mud and dirt is. The ATE's dont give it anywhere to be > thrown, other slotted rotors do. If you live in LA or somewhere where > you get now snow and mud then they are fine, otherwise I prefer the other > options. > > Just my opinion. And in response to Greg's question, I believe that > most people install with the slots moving backwards. IE< the hub > portion of slot leads the outer portion when driving forward. The other > way tends to suck the pads in which I remember from a theread a few > months ago some people liked for soem reason. But I think most havbe > them suck out. > >l8r > > Todd > > Kwattro@aol.com wrote: >>In a message dated 00-09-29 23:44:01 EDT, you write: >> >><< On the other rotor, the slots are front slash /. Which rotor goes on >>the left side and which goes on the right? Does it make any difference? It >>would >>seem that in one instance the squeezing brake pads will cause the gases >>and/or >>moisture to flow towards the hub and in the other instance they would flow >>towards >>the edge of the rotor. Which is better and why? >> >>Greg J >> >> >> >> >>Get Ate powerdiscs (radius cut rotors...) , and remember that there isn't >>any >>moisture on a activated brake disc, and the pad compounds of today do not >>generate gases like old compounds. So what are the slots for? Massive >>amounts of brake dust - they provide a channel for it. For those interested, >>this was from a BMWCCA school lecture on brake performance, in which I asked >>a brake expert (t! he founder of DECH mustangs, which mostly concentrate on >>braking/suspension work) if I had spent the money in the right area by >>getting slotted instead of drilled. The answer was a resounding yes, with >>the aforementioned explaination why... >> >>Later! >>Carter J >>Kwattro@aol.com >>_______________________________________________ >>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >>please visit the web interface at >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro >Sure > >Todd Phenneger >83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) >84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. > > > >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 >Free! _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/6edf65ec/attachment.htm From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 17:29:32 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal Questions ('88 5KSQ) References: Message-ID: <39D79EAC.3F56FC8F@worldnet.att.net> Remove the pump, leave the lines on - shift it over to the valve cover. The AC condensor rests in a wedge at the bottom - lift and pull forward slightly. There is a rubber mount on the bottom of the radiator - order it, it will need replacement. There are 2 -3 other bolts under there that hold the lower shroud to the bottom. Romove the fan wires and pull the radiator/fan & shroud as an assembly - its easiest! Christopher Ritchie wrote: > I need to replace the radiator on my '88 5KSQ. Some questions on how to > remove the old one. > > 1. Can the radiator come out by itself? That is, without the fan assembly > and the A/C condensor. I can see where they are all bolted together on the > tops. Is there anything holding them together at the bottoms? > > 2. Will it clear the hydraulic pump? Or, does that need to be moved? > > 3. Any helpful hints? > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 14:32:14 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Tie rod ends. 4000 Q Rears Message-ID: <20001001203214.13961.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> THis is a VERY late post. Sorry, But I have never had a problem with my Method. Or rather, After using this method. ANd've I've had some VERY stubbgorn ones. Probably done a total of 5 cars with this method. I use what is basically a hub puller. It has two claws that grab the Tie rod arm and then the threaded screw that sits on the nut side of Tie rod end. Take off nut, screw it down and when its REALLY tight pop the arm with a real hammer. The shock will break it loose. Or if it doesnt, tighten it some more and tap again. Keep going like this. I've never ruined a set of thereads (except Before I used this tool) and It works every time. Then, once the tie rod end is off, take out the entire Tie Rod and put it in a vise. soak with penatrant and use muscle to break loose the nuts. YOu will likely have a hell of a time getting them off so what I do is unscrew the center portion of the tie rod off the two ends. Then use a Die to clean up the well corroded threads. Then remove nut and replace with a nice new stainless Jam Nut. then reassemble wiht some anti-sieze. IF your end was in good shape then your good to go wihtout spending $100 x 2 on new tie rods. And you alignment shop will LOVE you and be able to do a proper alignment. I take cars to a friend that works at a shop so I always do this ont he 4kq's so it makes his job easy. ITs almost impossible to align the back if those tie rods have been on for a while. l8r Todd Suffolk wrote: Subject: Re: Need advice on breaking free rear 4kq tierods and ball joints Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:09:17 -0400 If you have air tools the Home Depot sells a ~ Campbell Hausefield air chisel for ~$30 and there are 5 chisels in a set, for ~$ 12. Those that don't come out with liquid penetrant and the sledge (on the nut covering the end of the treads) get the magic air chisel. As you look at the treads sticking thru the hub assembly (conical "V" Shape), place a nut and thread down until flush with the end of the treaded shaft ( to keep the threads in tact and help keep the chisel point ( use the round pointed one) from slipping off the end of the threaded stud as you squeeze the trigger and BRUp,brup,brup the whole thing loose. It will only go to the nut (broken free) so you'll have to socket off the nut to pull the assembly free. BUT if you did alot of chisel point walking to the nut at the contact point with the treads you may now need a nut splitter to take off the nut. I'll be doing that this week or so. -Scott BOSTON just some input. Had a similar problem with my 86 4kcsq as well. I was able to get the rear tie rod ends loose with a torch, and a large hammer. They were not reusable when I was done though. The ball joint on the drivers side was nearly impossible to remove. What I ended up doing was pulling the ball joint seat(not sure what it is called)out from the control arm, and removing it and the strut assembly as one piece. I then went down to the workshop, and tried to remove it with a torch. Couldn't get it. Then I tried a torch, and a large sledge. Still couldn't get it. Eventually, I took the bolts off of the joint, where it seats into the bottom of the strut assy, and cut/pried the joint out, so I just had the ball joint and seat as a piece. Then the drill press got the ball joint out. Took me a total of 3.5 hours for that side. Funny enough, the passenger side ball joint popped right out with a little heat and a tap from the hammer, and I was able to use the appropriate tool to get the joint out of the strut assembly. That side took much less time. Wasn't a very elegant way to fix it, but it worked, and the rear suspension is much tighter. The guy at the alignment shop was appreciative. I dropped off the car, and he rolled his eyes and started cussing under his breath. When I went back to pick it up though, he was smiling, and said "that was the easiest alignment I've ever done on one of those damn cars". I guess it helps when every component on the suspension has just been replaced. :) Sorry for my ramble, and good luck with yours. groa@Cinergy.com> To: "'quattro@audifans.com'" , "'mrobinso@CH2M.com'" _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/71b24821/attachment.htm From sjensen at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 17:24:53 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? Message-ID: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump off post, vroom and off and running. Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News but no joy. Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling the carpet back now. Please help! -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq 87 5kcstqw From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Sun Oct 1 23:08:05 2000 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1991 200T References: Message-ID: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: ; > > > Anyway, there is no way to mistake the rear fog lights for brakelights, IMHO. > > The loght output is about twice that of the brake light, even though both use a > > 21 watt bulb. It's all in the reflector/lense. > > Yes, you see the difference when you're staring at the car. But the > peripheral startle reflex is masked when you're looking elsewhere, > such as in your mirrors or at the instruments. It all depends - some vehicles have a really stupid combined tail & fog light setup, SAAB 9000 for example. Couple of years ago my ex complained to me that her car (9000) had failed inspection because the rear fog didn't work (like it was _my_ problem). I took a close look to discover that some monkey lad had fitted the bulbs incorrectly (not a difficult thing to do, actually) so everytime she switched on her lights she got 21w and when she added the fogs it was just another 5w which nobody could see. In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... Regards, Jim Haseltine From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Sun Oct 1 22:56:28 2000 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? References: <4.3.2.7.0.20001001104828.00ae9400@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <00a801c02beb$e9c848e0$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Nas" > "John Corbishley" wrote: > > >I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > > > > > >Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? > > If your car wasn't equipped with one from new, you have to go aftermarket. > The OE items are mounted on a special bracket, and even the shape of the > inner hood panels is different. We compared this on a CGT without and an > Urq with the struts recently. My 88 Ur-q now has a bonnet donated from my 83 CGT, all the hardware swapped over without problems. The bonnet fitted to my 81 Ur-q has also got all the holes and slots required for the strut brackets to fit. All three bonnets have both the slots for the strut brackets and the hole for the single prop. Regards Jim Haseltine From alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu Sun Oct 1 17:43:26 2000 From: alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu (Albert Ng) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: ALMS report In-Reply-To: <39D6BE5C.C26AD1A2@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: Damn, I wonder when they gonna bring ALMS to Indy!!!! I hope they do it next year! Albert Ng On Sun, 1 Oct 2000, David Head wrote: > Audi squeaks by with a 1-2 win, Panoz charging hard at the end for 2nd > after the final yellow, number 77 throws a blocking move... In GTS, > Corvette charges hard in the last 4 laps and overdives the Viper leader > into a spinoff - Corvette goes 1,3. In 1000 miles of driving, the last 4 > laps, the distance between the top 3 ccars in both classes was under 2 > seconds! The evening was spent watching a Direct TV Speedvision feed on > the side of the Rogers/Corell RV. > BMW - #43 does a 360 the hard way early on when he catches air in a > Mercedes Lemans manner and walks away. #42 damages the rear wing & > suspension in the final 1/2 hour and takes himself outa contention in a > seriously loooong pit stop. > The qlist/QCUSA was very well represented with over 65 cars, only one of > which was a V8 (Ed?...). A superb condition local 87.5 CGT arrived late > - 130hp eng and rear disks - had never heard of the qlist... Most > unusual older Audi - Paul Cassara's early 5Ktq in Sport colors with > Jetta headlights. Nicest older Audi - a drop dead gorgeous tornado red > 4000CSq, lowered. Several early Avants, one each 91 200 tqa and tqs, > urS4s and S6s abounded, 6 tts, one tt roadster, coupla coupe qs > including Erics 'runnin iron'. Most unusual non - Audi: the '61 35' > Gatorojo custom coach brought by the kindly and erudite Unka Bart. > A good time was had by all - except the poor 70# doe that narrowly > avoided being hit TWICE by the SAME Porsche GT in the first 15 minutes > of the race at the chicane. Rare to see a caution due to frantic > wildlife... > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 16:19:49 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ Message-ID: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> I just did this in August on an '86 5kt (a/t)...this may not be exact: 1) Pull the hydraulic (p/s) pump. Get it out of there completely. Move hoses so you don't get goo2000 all over. 2) Disconnect the battery...safety tip. Don't forget you have a fan and fan switch to contend with. 3) There are three rubber mounts. Two small ones on the top, one larger one on the botttom. There are also shield mounting bolts to contend with too. Get the latest revision on the top mounts. These will have a "cup" of metal around half the rubber part. I can get the revison letter for you if you need it. The "cup" improves axial (sideways) rigidity. 4) Get the Modine radiator. Don't put the same problem back into your car. 5) Drain as much coolant as you can before you begin the process. 6) Might as well change those hoses while you're at it>good luck finding the top "3 way" hose at a traditional auto parts store. You are going to need the dealer or the specialists (Blau, GPR, etc.). __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 16:25:19 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: changing o2 sensors-V6 motors Message-ID: <20001001222519.6881.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> Forgot to add that pulling the battery not only is safer, wipes the memory, but also resets the "learning curve" of the ECU back to its base values. I don't know if that is absolutely necessary, but it certainly can't hurt. After all, the ECU started life at the Audi factory in a car with new o2 sensors. For those with CIS and earlier, and non-lambda models, sorry for the BW. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Mon Oct 2 00:41:26 2000 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: cgt clutch change (long) Message-ID: <001701c02bf8$d10f52a0$31e331d4@thebeast> ok the time came for the clutch change, i got a sachs clutch from german and swedish for ?89 +vat, that included drive plate, friction plate and release bearing. followed the haynes manual - remove airbox disconnect and remove downpipe disconnect track rods from joining bracket (not exact words so i didnt understand and left that) unbolt and slide driveshafts out of the way disconnect reverse light switch support front of engine (cant see any reason why so i wont bother) disconnect clutch cable unbolt gearchange mechanism unbolt top gearbox bolts unbolt and push to one side gearbox steady and remove mount unbolt lower gearbox bolts ok the gearbox is now free, easy peasy you think. well so far i have snapped a downpipe stud, so inlet manifold off, then exhaust manifold off......... so now its just a case of sliding the box back, ok put a jack under the box, and pull back...... 10mm of movement and stop, ok wiggle gearbox....... no more....... crow bar gearbox, ok weve got about an inch and a half of movement, stuck looking ontop of the box i find out what the manual was talking about when it mentioned the track rod brackety thingy... the gearbox wont move because it is now hitting this bracket DOH!!!! ok its easier to shift that out of the way before you move the box, but, lesson learned. wiggle and lever some more and its almost free, then stuck again, after much messing i constructed a 'table' out of bricks and a sheet of ply about an inch below the gearbox, got to large crowbars and forced the gearbox to drop, it worked!!!. upon examining the release bearing i realised what the spring was that i found lodged between the front gearbox cover and the gearbox, several months before, it was on of the springs of the release bearing, so the release bearing always slid back crooked. my friends-girlfriend's-brother came round and told me he could do this job in four hours!! this is after 12 maybe.... apparently it helps if you jacke the front of the engine up, LESSON 2 anyway sorry about the long email just a bit of info for anyone wanting to do something like this From jimknopf at bigfoot.com Mon Oct 2 01:54:23 2000 From: jimknopf at bigfoot.com (Jens) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Could use help on US specs References: <200010012026.QAA03900@audifans.com> Message-ID: <39D7CEAE.A89B87D6@bigfoot.com> Hi there listers! I finally started working on a thorough restructuring on parts of my page. However, as I am German, I don't know too much about the US versions. So, if you want to help me, I would be very happy. The "task": ;) Go to http://home.germany.net/100-157656/el.htm (It is part of www.audistory.de in case you wonder.) And find all the mistakes I have committed. Feel free to send e-mails to me directly, if you prefer. Also, if you find mistakes concerning the European versions: tell me. Nothing is uglier than mistakes on a page I think. (Well, except for animated gifs ;) ) TIA Jens PS: If anyone finds out that I use his/her pic(s) without his/her knowledge and/or credit given, please tell me. PPS: Two new pics of Steppenwolf on my page. From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Mon Oct 2 00:46:30 2000 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: exhaust manifold insulating Message-ID: <002501c02bf9$71b4cfa0$31e331d4@thebeast> since i have it off, i waas going to remove all the loose rust, paint it and insulate it. my plan was hi temp paint, then tinfoil, then a fabric of some kind ( iwant to do this cheaply and easily and tomorrow) ill probably do the same on the downpipe. has anyone got anty recommendations as to how i can keep this lot in situe, can i use epoxy to bond the fabric?? i dont know what kind of temperatures this will see/take. any help would be really cool From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 16:58:30 2000 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan Message-ID: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Hello list, I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the drain plug, went to change the oil today and found that the threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit there with no oil in it? As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I would be interested in it. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:05:51 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? In-Reply-To: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html At 04:24 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: >Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der >Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: > >Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, >but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. >Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump >off post, vroom and off and running. > >Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, >but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News >but no joy. > >Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling >the carpet back now. > >Please help! > >-Steve Jensen >87 5kcstq >87 5kcstqw > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Mon Oct 2 12:33:39 2000 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors In-Reply-To: <970325512.22668@egroups.com> Message-ID: <000201c02bfc$c517acf0$cb164290@DAVE> ditto for the ap's on my ur-q. according to their mounting instructions that is.... dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 23:20:54 -0500 From: "Jimmy Pribble, Managing Editor, UrS4.com" Subject: RE: Slotted Rotors My Zimmerman rotors slotted by Weston Motorsports (Hi Paul!) are both slotted "back." That is, facing the rotor, the slot curves clockwise from inside to the outside. I think this is the correct configuration, but I'm not exactly sure why. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle that the slot cuts across the pad. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:16:15 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan In-Reply-To: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001191325.00bba140@traverse.com> Another vote for Fumoto? http://www.fumotovalve.com/ Maybe drop the pan, install the Fumoto and add a seal and nut to the inside? At 03:58 PM 10/01/2000 -0700, Ron Wainwright wrote: > Hello list, > > I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the >drain plug, > went to change the oil today and found that the >threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I >tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay >torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first >question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around >for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit >there with no oil in it? > >As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get >this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably >the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I >would be interested in it. >Thanks >Ron > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! >http://photos.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From gregsj at iea.com Sun Oct 1 17:15:38 2000 From: gregsj at iea.com (Greg Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors References: <000201c02bfc$c517acf0$cb164290@DAVE> Message-ID: <39D7C599.85D5DB83@iea.com> Thanks to all who replied. Its been nearly unanimous and I have my rotors mounted the correct way. What caused all this is the picture of the new Saleen on the front of Autoweek. His rotors are mounted the other direction. Greg J Dave Eaton wrote: > ditto for the ap's on my ur-q. according to their mounting instructions > that is.... > > dave > '95 rs2 > '90 ur-q > > -----Original Message----- > Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 23:20:54 -0500 > From: "Jimmy Pribble, Managing Editor, UrS4.com" > Subject: RE: Slotted Rotors > > My Zimmerman rotors slotted by Weston Motorsports (Hi Paul!) are both > slotted "back." That is, facing the rotor, the slot curves clockwise from > inside to the outside. I think this is the correct configuration, but I'm > not exactly sure why. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle > that the slot cuts across the pad. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:20:48 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: "Footwell Splice"? addendum In-Reply-To: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> References: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001191939.00bc4830@traverse.com> At 07:05 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Kneale Brownson wrote: >Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all >Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html >When you get there, search on "alternator to battery cable splice repair" > >At 04:24 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: > >>Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der >>Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: >> >>Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, >>but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. >>Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump >>off post, vroom and off and running. >> >>Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, >>but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News >>but no joy. >> >>Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling >>the carpet back now. >> >>Please help! >> >>-Steve Jensen >>87 5kcstq >>87 5kcstqw >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >>please visit the web interface at >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Sun Oct 1 19:25:33 2000 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan In-Reply-To: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As a very temporary solution, I have seen expandable replacement plugs. As you tighten them, a piece of rubber expands to seal the opening. Again, this would be a pretty sketchy set-up, but it will make the car usable, and at least hold oil in the engine. I think that these can be found at most national chain-type auto parts stores. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Ron Wainwright Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 5:59 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: oil pan Hello list, I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the drain plug, went to change the oil today and found that the threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit there with no oil in it? As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I would be interested in it. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sjensen at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 20:16:56 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? References: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> Message-ID: <004401c02bfd$b1ea0c80$cf0345cf@default> Earlier, Kneale said: > Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all > Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is what I was looking for but I couldn't remember where it was. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq 87 5kcstqw From mwvogt at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 20:44:58 2000 From: mwvogt at mindspring.com (Mark Vogt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: WTB: 6Jx15H2 ET 45 4 lug RIMS Message-ID: <200010012343.TAA12969@smtp10.atl.mindspring.net> Friends, I'm looking for (4) 15" 4lug ET45 RIMS for my (hopefully running soon) 5000s Avant. I'm redoing auto-wagon for wife/family car, so nothing fancy or too costly. The 14's on there now are beat to s--t and probably bent from Boston curbs. I think this size was used on 100's. TIA Mark Vogt, Exeter, NH '90 80 '89 200tqa '87 5000sa (in intensive care) From l.leung at juno.com Sun Oct 1 20:53:52 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: <389029829.970444432960.JavaMail.root@web649-wra> Was your car bought new? If not, then this was a P.O. mod. Not one of the better ones, IMHO. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: =?iso-8859-1?q?mike?= To: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk, quattro@audifans.com Sent: October 1, 2000 11:58:53 AM GMT Subject: Re: foglights >> err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights >> '93 V6 80 quattro >Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. just been to check..both light up. But, on closer inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run out of proper car wire. mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 17:55:53 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) In-Reply-To: <39D79507.52EB0E01@snet.net> Message-ID: On Sun, 1 Oct 2000, Bob wrote: > Sounds like an 84 with later bumpers. Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- Q: How many surrealists does it take to change a light bulb? A: Two, one to hold the giraffe, and the other to fill the bathtub with brightly colored machine tools. From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Mon Oct 2 03:17:55 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: exhaust manifold insulating In-Reply-To: <002501c02bf9$71b4cfa0$31e331d4@thebeast> Message-ID: There are no high temp paint that will cope with the temps of a turbo exhaust manifold. I dont think that exhaust wrap is good on our cars either. I know people that has had more problems with cracking manifolds with the exhaust wrapping... No experience with audis though... J?rgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden From quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net Sun Oct 1 21:10:20 2000 From: quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 1991 200T In-Reply-To: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> References: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> Message-ID: At 10:08 PM +0100 10/1/00, Jim Haseltine wrote: >In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo >last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... At least on the 960, it's very hard to "accidentally" leave it on. The rear fog light, when on, also lights a -very- bright orange light in the instrument cluster. it's all in the instrumentation. I think that there would be far less confusion if the diagram was a car, with lines out the back...not just "lines straight out of a reflector"(which is almost -exactly- like the "fog light" symbol(which is lines out of reflector, pointing down.) The diagram is clearly not effective enough...but it's probably some ISO standard, that nobody can touch or question... Brett -- ---- Brett Dikeman Systems Engineer CFN(formerly iClick, Inc) 914-872-8043 120 Bloomingdale Rd. 914-872-8100(fax) White Plains, NY 10605 http://www.iclick.com PGP Fingerprint: 06C2 5D5B D2B4 7626 BB24 2BBC 9E4A C8B3 PGP Key location: http://pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net/pgp/brett.pgp From l.leung at juno.com Sun Oct 1 21:14:28 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Audi Spottings/potential New Lister Message-ID: <390305490.970445668368.JavaMail.root@web315-wra.mail.com> First the spotting: 5:15 PM. Sunday, 10/1. Heading north on NY Rt 9 south of Fishkill, NY, BEAUTIFUL '90 Coupe Quattro in silver, OEM 5 spoke 3 - pieces, I was in a Pearl 200Q with a bicycle roof rack and A4 5 spokes heading south. Lister? Potential New Lister - Guy approached me while I was in the Staples Parking lot in Kingston, NY. Complimented my 200Q and wanted to know of my opinions of Audi's in general :) and what I thought of a '97 A4 2.8Q, especially in terms of maintenance (he had a Saab in the past). I figured if he was used to Saab maintenance, then he'd be more than happy with the A4, which, possibly due to newness just doesn't seem as "maintenance intensive" as the type $$, especially the turbos. He's hooked on the longevity of the cars (and was somewhat shocked at the milage on mine (158K) and on the 4KQ I sold (188K, now the friend whom has it is at 240K), their build, and styling, etc. I think we've another lister (and thanks to my Q-list decals, it was easy for me to give him the web site. Contact Bob Myers, c/o this list....) LL - NY From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 21:25:20 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ References: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator that lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you really expect to have the car another 10 years? William Magliocco wrote: > 4) Get the Modine radiator. Don't put the same > problem back into your car. From Identiles at aol.com Sun Oct 1 21:29:51 2000 From: Identiles at aol.com (Identiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: AUDI 200Q Avant High Speed Run Message-ID: Last night, a Pearl black Audi 200 Quatttro Avant made it from Atlantic city NJ to Staten Island NY in one hour. It also stopped for gasoline. This wagon was hauling. The bright xenon wanna be lights lite up the Garden State Parkway quite well. It also got the attention of left lancer's to move very quickly out of the way at 3 am. It must have been pretty scary to have this UFO coming up on the slow people at excess of 100 mph. I just wished that both my rear fog lights worked for those who lingered in the passing lane......... TEAM AUDI !!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone in the NYC or NJ area who would like to get together with there audis e-mail me. From leelevitt at excite.com Sun Oct 1 18:35:47 2000 From: leelevitt at excite.com (Lee Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter Message-ID: <15058998.970446947616.JavaMail.imail@bronty> joe fyffe writes: John Naitove wrote: > CC: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They should > be facing toward the back. Joe > > John Naitove wrote: > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of > > the car or the back of the car? What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am assuming that your 85 is a typo...). Lee '96 A6qw _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html From alanpage at connix.com Sun Oct 1 21:39:43 2000 From: alanpage at connix.com (alan page) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start Message-ID: <39D7D934.D84CC7C8@connix.com> Hello, I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the engine? Anything simple I should check on? Thanks, Alan Page Sandy Hook, CT USA '94 S4 '90 80q From BRIT4VWS at aol.com Sun Oct 1 22:01:19 2000 From: BRIT4VWS at aol.com (BRIT4VWS@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan Message-ID: I fixed mine with an oversize drain plug self tapping and everything. 5 oil changes later works like a beauty and there is another oversize plug after the 1st (1 oversize and 2 oversize). You might give it a try I got mine at pep boys or Napa or checker I can't remember sense they all have them. On another note I bought a new oil pan genuine parts for 30 or around there. The gasket for the pan was more expensive than the pan it self. This was a parts warehouse that I got mine at in Colorado. Britton Ingraham 1987 4000 CS quattro 1986 Quantum GL 1973 Type 1 Sedan From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 19:27:09 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: I stand corrected (was adaptive ECU-V6) Message-ID: <20001002012709.28211.qmail@web2905.mail.yahoo.com> Forgot all about last versions of CIS ECUs, which had some of the same functionality I was talking about. Sorry, Alex! My frame of reference on CIS was the 85-86 Audi type $$, an '84 VW Quantum, '85 Golf GTI and '88 VW Fox. None of those had diagnostic ECU systems, let alone adaptive controls. Some had buzzer freq valves, some had DPR valves, and the GTI had electronically controlled variable timing and the knock sensor. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 23:13:25 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start In-Reply-To: <39D7D934.D84CC7C8@connix.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move ahead to contact the flywheel. At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: >Hello, > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > >Thanks, >Alan Page >Sandy Hook, CT USA > >'94 S4 >'90 80q > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Kwattro at aol.com Sun Oct 1 23:18:54 2000 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: In a message dated 00-10-01 20:00:06 EDT, you write: << Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- >> Well, a couple of things. First off, some of the 86's and most 87's had the mirrors body color. As for the trim, it would be an easy fit for any trim piece, if you think about it. Sounds like the guy or gal is in with a body shop. There are also paints that can be used on lights, giving the effect of body color - there was a Mercedes show car with titanium colored taillights not too long ago. Duane Hale's turbo 4000CSQ had no side trim, and painted stainless and rubber trim (it was in Eurocar for those who don't know.). Nothing is impossible - it's all about money. The car's actually look nice without the side trim, but somewhat void since the black stripe matches up. However, the character line from the 84 is still present, just covered up by the trim. Grill sounds custom, of course. Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From naitove at bellatlantic.net Sun Oct 1 23:27:16 2000 From: naitove at bellatlantic.net (John Naitove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter References: <15058998.970446947616.JavaMail.imail@bronty> Message-ID: <39D7F283.359C3D75@bellatlantic.net> It's a 95 and the manual recommended replacing it. John Lee Levitt wrote: > joe fyffe writes: > > John Naitove wrote: > > > CC: quattro@audifans.com > > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They > should > > be facing toward the back. Joe > > > > John Naitove wrote: > > > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about > dealers/dealer > > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front > of > > > the car or the back of the car? > > What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am > assuming that your 85 is a typo...). > > Lee > '96 A6qw > > _______________________________________________________ > Say Bye to Slow Internet! > http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sjensen at mindspring.com Mon Oct 2 00:19:19 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: It's always something...(longish) Message-ID: <004001c02c1f$8e94d220$5a9b56d1@default> Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. Oh well, I'll be a minivan pilot for a few days. S'okay, it's an Audi, its always something but it can be fixed... After Dave Head's spot on review of Road Atlanta, I wanted to chime in with my .02 cents. First of all, it was a heckuva lot of fun: I finally got to meet some of the folks from the List whose posts have given me great enjoyment and/or saved me money. After being invited into a motorhome Elliott Potter and I had been admiring, I met Unka Bart, Bob Myers, and Dave Head (whose idea of buying a 5 spd. 4.2L V-8 in Germany, ripping out all the required guts and computers and shipping it back to the US didn't sound half bad). Audi cameraderie was the plan of the day, and Bob Myers said it best when he mentioned the sense of community and friendliness one gets from reading posts (sometimes for years) before finally meeting someone from the List in person. It was a pleasure meeting all three of you. Kudos should also go out to Tom Saltino, who arranged the Audi Corral - 4Ks, 5Ks, S cars (more S cars in one place than I've ever seen), quattros and front drivers. And the neat thing was that everyone left their ego back at the house, I think everyone had a ball (except for that errant deer that wandered out onto the track, she'll probably have nightmares for weeks about racing cars dodging her). I have walked thru the Porsche and Ferrari corrals at other races and the attitude was sometimes so thick you'd need hip waders. Refreshing to walk amongst the various Audi types and see no barriers. In the rest of the infield, the "you don't see that everyday" award goes to the guy with the gas turbine powered pick up truck, followed closely by a guy on a gas turbine powered motorcycle!!! What a hoot! And after the Audis won, who else but Unka Bart would whip out a bottle of champagne to celebrate? Bart, you are truly a class act. The bottom line is this - both my Audis are broken, one with a bum clutch and the other that won't start without a jump - but so what? If I wanted an appliance, I'd put an engine and wheels on my wifes Kelvinator washing machine, life is too short to own boring cars. I have a Bentley, and I have the good List people who don't mind spreading information to help others keep their older and not-so-older Audis running. This is a good place to be. Oh, and the guy driving the Audi 90 that helped jump off my TQW and get me back on the road? Turns out he's got 4 Audis of various types (the 90, a V8, a 5K and the other I forget), but he'd never heard of the List. That has since been rectified. Please give Tom Badger a warm welcome when he posts. Sorry for the long post/rant but I wanted to share. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq (awaiting clutch transplant) 87 5kcstqw (awaiting splice surgery, but now sporting Audifans stickers) From JordanVw at aol.com Mon Oct 2 00:33:38 2000 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? Message-ID: title sez it all.. anyone know? chris From alanpage at connix.com Mon Oct 2 00:39:35 2000 From: alanpage at connix.com (alan page) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start References: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Message-ID: <39D80363.D00E26FD@connix.com> Kneale, That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and lube the starter? Thanks, Alan Kneale Brownson wrote: > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > >Hello, > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > >Thanks, > >Alan Page > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > >'94 S4 > >'90 80q > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From niederst at telerama.com Mon Oct 2 01:18:23 2000 From: niederst at telerama.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? References: Message-ID: <000601c02c27$d0a69a60$5004c9cd@acer> The stock 100 wheels are either 15x6 (non-quattro) or 15x7 (quattro), 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset. I have had the stock 15x6, A4/A6 15x7 and A4/A6 16x7 (all 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset) on my '92 100 with no problems. If the Fuchs have this offset and bolt pattern (if I remember correctly they do), they will fit. HTH. Craig '92 100S (90k) '86 CGT (191k) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 11:33 PM Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? > title sez it all.. anyone know? > chris > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From erik at aero.und.edu Mon Oct 2 00:21:14 2000 From: erik at aero.und.edu (Erik Addy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Carparts.com cupons Message-ID: Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for carparts.com? I was thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but the # I had is no longer valid. Thanks Erik From tnas at euronet.nl Mon Oct 2 08:50:45 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001002074710.00aec8b0@mail.euronet.nl> "Mark L. Chang" wrote: >Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in >Seattle, WA. >Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things >off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very >factory: >The non-factory mods: >1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) >2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) >3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) >The factory-looking mods: >1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper >cover assemblies were painted full body color. >2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. >3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about >knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: >http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg >But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that >were very nice looking. >I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find >it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. Sounds like a custom paint job to me, as Euro 90qs never had more parts painted body colour than the US 4ks. My site's at http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/AudiJunk/ Regards, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/955aba5c/attachment.htm From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Mon Oct 2 01:31:06 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ References: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <00e001c02c42$ba757f20$0201a8c0@pnix.net> > If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator that > lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you > really expect to have the car another 10 years? ... IME the Modines are available for around the same price as the discounted dealer price. When I got the replacement for the 4kSQ from Carlsen it was an all metal rad made in the Netherlands. I'm sorry, but I don't happen to agree here on replacing with plastic at all, but if it is cool for you, go ahead! The thought that an overtightened radiator hose might lead to a warped head is enough to make up my mind ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) ... with experience on just about all of my Audis with an unexpected catastrophic failure of a plastic rad tank, heater hose or pump without warning in almost every case ... I've learnt my lesson! From pjberr at home.com Mon Oct 2 04:32:49 2000 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c02c42$f7b2fca0$3800000a@JATER> Mine broke off three months ago - quite irritating to say the least but it's been on for at least 6000 km no problem. In fact I just did a run to new york city and back 1780km in 27 hours (stopped in for some business). I had forgotten it broke until I just read your post. Peter 1990 200TQ > >snip > >I guess I should be grateful that the car breaks when and > >where it does. > >But I am getting sick of constantly working on the thing. > > > >All this leads to a question. Isn't there a fix for broken radiator > >outlets? Something like epoxying a neck in the remaining > >stub? Anybody > >ever do this? Anybody ever ride around for any length of > >time with the hose > >attached only to a 1 inch neck. (I want to get the radiator > >pressure tested > >before I go to all the trouble of replacing it.) From wbr90 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 01:37:58 2000 From: wbr90 at yahoo.com (Keith Lawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Carparts.com cupons Message-ID: <20001002073758.24615.qmail@web215.mail.yahoo.com> Try coolsavings.com. You can usually get the latest coupon codes there. Keith L. --- Erik Addy wrote: > Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for > carparts.com? I was > thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but > the # I had is no > longer valid. > > Thanks > Erik __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:37 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: >>Also the law in the UK allows their use only when > visibility is less than 50 metres and specifically > forbids their use in rain. > Does it?..i thought the law was vauge..."poor > visibility" EU harmonisation. Just be thankful we don't yet have the lastest - automatic 50kph limit in rain. > Also did that stuck plug ever come out?...and if so > how All five plugs were snapped off - not by me. The car's owner claims to have got them out without lifting the head. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:42 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder Message-ID: > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... If we're going to have these: a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few thousand posts? b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe to use this word, and my filters spot it. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:51 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: >>> '93 V6 80 quattro >>Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog > light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right > hand traffic only'. > just been to check..both light up. But, on closer > inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the > car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in > household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run > out of proper car wire. It's illegal and should not have passed its last MoT. Just don't pass a bored HM Fuzz patrol with them switched on - it's more than adequate excuse to pull you over and go through the book, including a breath test. Figure on about GBP40, three points, a 'present vehicle repaired within five days' chit and possibly even invalidation of your MoT. And that's if they don't find anything else. I know of one case (illegally low front foglights) where the police notified the DoT and the MoT testing station got a written warning. The MoT station we use (Crossroads Garage, Dunton Basset) would most definitely have failed the car. I know, because Kieth (the tester) failed a 20V ur-quattro that had been converted to LHD by simply adding the right fog light and not deleting the left one. I would strongly suggest you at least take the bulb out. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:56 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: changing o2 sensors-V6 motors Message-ID: > Forgot to add that pulling the battery not only is > safer, wipes the memory, but also resets the "learning > curve" of the ECU back to its base values. > I don't know if that is absolutely necessary, but it > certainly can't hurt. After all, the ECU started life > at the Audi factory in a car with new o2 sensors. We had one case of a 20V RR ur-quattro that had a defective inlet air temperature sender. The owner had it replaced but complained that the car still didn't perform. He took it back to the (specialist!) dealer three times. I met him at the Area K meeting one day and he explained this. I just pulled the ECU fuses, whistled 'Dixie' (the recommended tune) for a minute and put them back. The car was transformed. I have a letter from him framed on my office wall. > For those with CIS and earlier, and non-lambda models, > sorry for the BW. No, still good advice for some CIS cars - notably the MAC14 MC-2 engine. Non-volatile memories are not the sole preserve of Motronics. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:52:00 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement Message-ID: > Just finished checking the archives. Still a little confused. > Can anyone post the procedure for replacing the outer CV joint boot (on an > '88 5KSQ)? Other than "don't - take it to a dealer"? Half-shaft out, spread the circlip inside the joint, and pound away. Even with the circlip out of the way (there's a new one in the kit, so you can happily destroy the old one) the splines are a very tight interference fit - it's really a two-man job with proper tools. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:52:05 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start Message-ID: > I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > engine? Anything simple I should check on? Pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor arm is turning. I also have a neat little spark cell - it's a kind of neon tube you put in series with #1 spark plug to see if the engine's trying to fire. You can get much the same effect by tie-wrapping the removed plug to the engine hoist bracket. Don't handle the plug while you're doing this - a full belt from a solid state ignition system can be dangerous. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From wbr90 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 02:09:10 2000 From: wbr90 at yahoo.com (Keith Lawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Audi 200 rear seat wiring harness? Message-ID: <20001002080910.16154.qmail@web217.mail.yahoo.com> Hello, I'm the proud owner of a new-to-me '89 200tq avant. My first question of many is what are the wires running to the underside of the rear seat? Much thanx, Keith L. '81 4ks '86 4kcsq '89 200tq __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From Peter_Guthrie at agilent.com Mon Oct 2 11:26:17 2000 From: Peter_Guthrie at agilent.com (Peter Guthrie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder References: Message-ID: <39D854B9.C2F291D8@agilent.com> isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk wrote: > > > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... > > If we're going to have these: > > a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not > much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few > thousand posts? > > b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe > to use this word, and my filters spot it. > c) Let's not put unencrypted passwords in the message! Peter From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 08:11:17 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: V8 Work Message-ID: <39D86D55.C61DE90@mestek.com> Well, I took the morning Saturday, and installed a new RPM sensor, and a new O2 sensor (now I'm averaging 20 mpg, instead of 12), and that seams to fix it. The car hasn't died out on me yet, and it's running much smoother, as well as starting every time. Now I have to order the Dist. caps. I took them off Saturday to have a look at them, and they have about 1/8" of corrosion on the electrode tabs. I buffed them clean with my drill and wire brush head, but I am planning on ordering new ones this week. Thanks for all your help. I was wondering if I could install generic cat's on the car. Thanks again for all your help. Theron J. Bliss Massachusetts 1990 V8 Quattro 194,000 Miles From Thefredx at aol.com Mon Oct 2 09:18:27 2000 From: Thefredx at aol.com (Thefredx@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge Message-ID: <6d.a00f708.2709d713@aol.com> no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot light does not report trouble! this car is not on the road yet...i just bought it (crunched front pass fender s.b. easy fix) ive owned a urq for 9 yrs so i figured by now i've gotten used to "audi hell"! :-o any help out there for a cheap pass side headlight? car is pearl w/stock pearl rims (not fuchs) 2 owner 128kmiles also, this car has low black rubber deck spoiler...looks factory; i've never seen one on a 5k. any info on this spoiler? From magliocc at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 2 06:20:10 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) Message-ID: <20001002122010.10596.qmail@web2903.mail.yahoo.com> Now, Phil adds to the equation...again, I've never owned a MAC-14 ECU equipped car (MC-2 motor)! But, on the subject of non-volatile memory, I will assert that a memory circuit that you can wipe by simply removing power _IS_ VOLATILE! The ECU is simply obtaining some of its power sources straight from the battery rather than through key switches, relays, etc. I've worked on a tremendous amount of electronic gear with backup batteries (often lithium) used for memory, product configuration, clock/calendars, ad nauseam. It is my understanding that true "non-volatile" memory means you have memory that won't change state when all power is removed. There was one group of products that had a very stringent method to change said battery...if you got it wrong, you needed to send the product back to the factory for reprogramming. As I stood corrected, my older gasoline powered V-A-G cars had the simpler ECUs...my thinking did not extend beyond the 1986 5000 kT sitting outside (with bad diff), or the '88 VW Fox (hardly a high-tech ECU by today's standards)... in that latter case, the ECU was not even able to tell me when the coolant temp sensor failed in "cold" mode. Had to diagnose it by the book...cold the car was ok, but when warm, way too rich with attendant driveability problems. The ECU had no diagnostics. I think it was all linear ICs inside the box too. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From BSWANN at arinc.com Mon Oct 2 09:35:44 2000 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B10057671B0@exanpmb1.arinc.com> I intend to re-torque "properly" when all gets re-assembled. As I now have the engine mounted on a proper stand and not dangling, it will be easier to control. I believe it is easier to tighten to torqued specification than to break the friction of the bolt that has been on for years, and in my case of performing a partial overhaul, this was the best way. Regards, Ben Swann 87.5 GT Coupe engine for 4KQ -----Original Message----- From: james accordino [mailto:ssgacc@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 10:42 AM To: Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN) Cc: audi list Subject: Re: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... --- "Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)" wrote: > > I tried several things incl. breaker bar. > Well I borrowed a high torque impact wrench (not my > cheesy SAMS special). > Brapp Brapp - it was off so fast I couldn't believe > I wasted so much time > trying another way. > > 1 vote for the impact wrench. Before I even knew any better, I took mine off like that. CP gun with about 550 ft. lbs. "true" torque. It was off in about 2 seconds. I believe you could damage the key or keyway, but probably could by hand as well. Phil is right about needing to lock the crank to reinstall it correctly though. I cheated by using Loctite blue and the gun to reinstall. I'm NOT recommending this and will probably do it correctly next time. BTW, you can gauge torque surprising accurately with a gun when you become very used to the sound and frequency of the blows. The "cadence" if you will. This assumes you use a quality gun at a constant air pressure, and have a good torque wrench to verify the values occasionally. This will establish your reference and "gauge" your ear occasionally. Again, I'm NOT advocating this, I just believe it is possible. Jim Accordino 2nding the motion From damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca Mon Oct 2 09:36:03 2000 From: damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca (Damien Gaboury) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Instrument cluster dead: solved References: <20000928233515.12044.qmail@web2906.mail.yahoo.com> <39D3FD57.FAB02249@abraxis.com> <001c01c02a12$48d6f9c0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> <002201c02a38$797f60a0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> Message-ID: <004701c02c6d$53aa48e0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> Thank to the numerous peoples (Todd, Steven, Elliot, Ottar, Dan Z..) that have suggested various solutions for solving my problem. As expected, the problem was related to the wire harness in the truck. 6 of the 7 wires were broken and they were all together in short circuit. I have spited the harness and added a section of wire for all the seven in order to ensure good flexibility in the hinge. The reparation involve soldering of new wire sections that I have grouped under a rubber tubing to protect them. The modification looks stock. For the benefice of the list, below are the problems encountered in relation to the short circuit in the truck wiring harness: 1- Erratic operation of the central looking doors when opening and closing the truck; 2- Alarm doesn't want to be armed sometime. 3- Burned fuse on the licence plate light. 4- Finally the burning of the instrument cluster fuse: everything "dead" including speedometer, odometer, tachometer, clock, warning lights, and the all the gauges (water temp, oil temp, voltmeter, oil pressure and fuel). Hope that the information will help other peoples. Damien Gaboury, PhD Scientifique de recherche Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem ----- Original Message ----- From: Damien Gaboury To: Damien Gaboury ; Cc: Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 1:12 PM Subject: Instrument cluster dead: update and help > Car: 90SQ 1993, V6-12V 2.8L > > Going to work this morning, I looked at my instrument cluster (dash) and > discovered that it was dead. All instruments were dead. During the lunch > time, I have performed some checks and bought some new fuses. Effectively, > it was the fuse. I replaced it, and it burned out again. Looking at the > situation as a scientist, I realized that the fuse burn out when and only > when I engage the reserve speed (manual). Ouf... > > That a good observation, because, as every bodies known, resolving > electrical problems on Audi is commonly expensive in time and money. > > I have to mention again that I don't have yet the Bentley manual for this > car 90 1993 (it will be available soon). Anyway, any gurus have some tips > for me ? As a way to look up, I know that I have open-circuit problems with > a wire harness in my truck (plate light fuse burned, central looking doors > operate erratically when I open the truck.). That sounds good considering > that the reverse lights use that wire set. However, I have problem to figure > out the electrical link with the instrument cluster and the reverse lights. > > Any help please before the week-end. At the point, I try to use only forward > speed. > > Damien Gaboury, PhD > Scientifique de recherche > Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) > Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi > 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 > e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca > Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From radonut at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 06:43:08 2000 From: radonut at yahoo.com (Kris Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A4 fuel smell Message-ID: <20001002124308.21852.qmail@web3101.mail.yahoo.com> Greetings, I have recently began getting a strong gas smell from the rear of my A4 Avant immediately after parking and while driving, with the windows down. I have looked under the car, and there is no real evidence of a leak. I took the access panel over the pump off, and the smell of gas is very strong there, but no wetness. I understand that the gas tank has to vent somewhere, I just don't know where, and if it is normal, it sucks because the smell of gas in the cabin is nauseating at times. Any BTDT appreciated!! ===== Kris Hansen Pomfret Vermont 98 A4 quattro Avant 30v tiptronic 96 A4 quattro 12v 5 speed __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From capalmer at nortelnetworks.com Mon Oct 2 09:55:21 2000 From: capalmer at nortelnetworks.com (capalmer@nortelnetworks.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: S6 - battery dieing, resolution Message-ID: <200010021255.IAA26116@dingo.engeast> And the answer was... bad battery. Split casing, one empty cell. So the sunroof gyrations were a symptom rather than a cause of the low battery. -- Chris Palmer (1995.5 S6 Avant) "Ashes to ashes, Sustaining IBM/Switched Protocols dust to dust, Nortel Networks if Lillee don't get you, capalmer@nortelnetworks.com Thommo must." From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 2 10:05:24 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge References: <6d.a00f708.2709d713@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D88813.67CBCF0D@worldnet.att.net> Normally this is caused by the blue single wire coming off the alternator. You may want to pull and check the regulator/brushes also. Once you have the rear cooling cover off, its only 2 phillips head bolts. Have fun getting the cover off - those upper nuts are a pain. Thefredx@aol.com wrote: > no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot > light does not report trouble! From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 10:22:46 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: It's always something...(longish) In-Reply-To: <004001c02c1f$8e94d220$5a9b56d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002092130.00aa2100@traverse.com> Even more thanks to Chris for providing a source anybody could point you to, Steve. At 11:19 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: >Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful >page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know >what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known >good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 10:35:44 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start In-Reply-To: <39D80363.D00E26FD@connix.com> References: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002092435.00bc3100@traverse.com> I'm not familiar with the set-up in an 80, Alan, but on a predecessor 4Kq, it's two bolts to detach the starter. I'm presuming that if your starter whirrs, it's getting power. Of course, it could be inadequate power (you can test for voltage) or corroded contacts that don't let the power get to the solenoid. My procedure with starters (on vehicles prior to my association with Audis that began a decade ago--never had an Audi starter problem) has been to take them off the car, truck or tractor and take the into a starter repair service. A good one will lube/replace bearings, clean up contacts, etc., in addition to replacing the solenoid or whatever it needs. At 11:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: >Kneale, > >That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the >starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? >After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and >lube the starter? > >Thanks, >Alan > >Kneale Brownson wrote: > > > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > > > >Hello, > > > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > > > >Thanks, > > >Alan Page > > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > > > >'94 S4 > > >'90 80q > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > > >please visit the web interface at > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 2 10:32:57 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: V8 cooling Message-ID: <39D88E88.B0658D25@worldnet.att.net> I removed the instrument cluster this morning and removed the fan control circuit board. This board is mounted directly on the back of the instrument cluster and can be removed without dismantling the cluster itself. The cover has 3 screws that hold it on. When removing the cluster, you'll spot it by the 2 pin connector that plugs into it. It has about a 20 pin connector that plugs into the Autocheck board. Careful prying with a tweaker on both sides and it comes right out. Although I had previously ordered the correct replacement chip from Digikey, I remembered John Cassarra had shown me a spare cluster he had up in his garage attic the last time I visited him. Since I was heading up to Atlanta anyway and knew he had sold his V8 a while back I gave him a call and we made the deal. I still have an Autocheck problem to troubleshoot in the other V8 and the spare cluster will come in handy. Eyeballing the 2 cards, I noticed the later one from the spare (12/89) was missing a resistor that mine had (5/89), and had a larger power transistor. The red V8 is a very early US production model (build date 6/89), and it appears VDO was already incorporating some running changes. When I get around to pulling the cluster in the lago blue car to do the Autocheck work I'll compare that board also - then maybe see if Scott Mockrey wants to play around with it to see if there are some improvements to be made. After putting the cluster back in, I hooked up the 100 ohm resistors to each sensor. This gives a signal of about 118C (I've exceeded that while sitting in traffic - no pleasant experience!). All 3 fans speeds cycled through perfectly. Awesome! Its nice to hear the hurricane of the 3rd stage - same sound as the 200. I've previously added a 16" pusher fan in front w/thermostat. I'm not expecting any more cooling problems. When we do the timing belt shortly we'll be replacing the water pump and thermostat as preventive maintenance items also. Dave Head 90 V8q - 76K 90 V8q - 107K (the hanger queen) 90 V8q - IC - 4512 miles... :-) From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 10:49:31 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Audi 200 rear seat wiring harness? In-Reply-To: <20001002080910.16154.qmail@web217.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002094918.00bc4550@traverse.com> seat heater? At 01:09 AM 10/02/2000 -0700, Keith Lawyer wrote: >Hello, I'm the proud owner of a new-to-me '89 200tq >avant. My first question of many is what are the >wires running to the underside of the rear seat? > >Much thanx, >Keith L. >'81 4ks >'86 4kcsq >'89 200tq > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! >http://photos.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net Mon Oct 2 11:13:58 2000 From: quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:10 2003 Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder In-Reply-To: <39D854B9.C2F291D8@agilent.com> References: <39D854B9.C2F291D8@agilent.com> Message-ID: At 10:26 AM +0100 10/2/00, Peter Guthrie wrote: >c) Let's not put unencrypted passwords in the message! From the main mailman page(www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro/) "You must enter a privacy password. This provides only mild security, but should prevent others from messing with your subscription. Do not use valuable passwords! Once a month, your password will be emailed to you as a reminder." -- ---- Brett Dikeman Systems Engineer CFN(formerly iClick, Inc) 914-872-8043 120 Bloomingdale Rd. 914-872-8100(fax) White Plains, NY 10605 http://www.iclick.com PGP Fingerprint: 06C2 5D5B D2B4 7626 BB24 2BBC 9E4A C8B3 PGP Key location: http://pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net/pgp/brett.pgp From ggthack at swansea.ac.uk Mon Oct 2 15:59:45 2000 From: ggthack at swansea.ac.uk (Graham Thackrah) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:10 2003 Subject: igntion switch and relief relay troubles Message-ID: <00100215285501.25603@gghail.swan.ac.uk> Hi list, Picture the scene, dark and raining and in the middle of Wales on the way to my parents place. Me with a lovely (!) red leicester and onion sandwich from the services watching my temp guage ride high until the temp coolant light shines merrily, no rad fan. No lights either, no leccy windows, heated rear screen or heater blower. Ignition off. Car cools down and I prod and poke about in the fuse box a bit. Tried ignition again and back to normal business, quick ride round the block and rad fan works fine. Repeat three hours later in pub carpark about 10 miles from home this time and I have to go in convoy with a mate and no lights but main beams held on physically till I get home, hoping we dont stop and need the rad fan... Checking things the next day we work out it's likely to be the relief relay, but we fall short of the real problem as a known good replacement had all the same troubles. AA bloke gets the bright spark award for identifying a dodgy contact in the ignition switch that the relief relay coil takes is juice from. Now my question, it's not that hard to replace the ignition switch is it? Do I need to drill the column to remove the ignition barrel to get to the switch or can I do it without? There's a black plastic connector on the rear of the barrel that I didn't have time to play with as I had to get the last train back to Swansea last night, is it as easy as pulling that out? Secondly, you can identify the fault using the main beams as a diagnostic aid, back in the archives from '96 Dan Simoes said you can use the main beams to get a sunroof to shut without the ignition on, or something like that, the reason is the relief relay takes power from the ignition switch but the wire to the contact on the ignition is shared with the dipped headlights and main beams, with the dipped beams on and the main beams flashed it provides power to the relief relay coil, bypassing the ignition switch, and all works fine until you release the main beams, check out the wiring diagram on page something or other in Haynes. Cheers in advance for any pointers to the ignition switch replacement. Graham 85 90q P.S. it was a lot of fun with the glovebox out, fuse box in bits and auxiliary relay panel scattered all over the passenger side footwell, at least I learnt a bit watching the AA guy troubleshoot the problem with the wiring diagram from Haynes and he even said he liked my Fluke 18:) From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 11:43:46 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Counterpoint to replacement of trans fluid References: <689F5E17232FD41194E600062B0021F3BB07B1@kmail2.genzyme.com> Message-ID: <39D89F22.E83389F1@mestek.com> I'm also curious about this, and I was also wondering how you check the levels of tranny fluid. Mine has a dip stick tube, but just a red cap on the top. Should there be a dip stick, or is this something where they expect you to go to the dealer for? Thanks. Theron J. Bliss "Harris, Tim" wrote: > Recently, I spoke to one of the two V8Q factory trained wrenches employed at > a local dealership regarding replacement of the transmission fluid and > filter. I indicated I was leaning towards synthetic ATF. His response was > interesting, saying that he did not recommend replacement of the trans fluid > on these cars (unless the car has very low mileage), only checking and > topping off the fluid level. His rationale was that over time, the > thickening of the original fluid and resulting "varnish" tends to hold all > the pieces together, compensating somewhat for a slight increase in > tolerances with age. Introducing new fluid, he believes, may have been > responsible for a car developing trans problems shortly after fluid > replacement. > > Any thoughts? I had been planning to replace the trans fluid, but now...? > > Thanks, > > --Tim > '91 V8Q auto., 70k mi. > Lago blue/gray leather From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Oct 2 11:46:02 2000 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: [urq] Delrin bushings Message-ID: <6f.b30641b.2709f9aa@aol.com> In a message dated 10/2/00 7:32:48 AM Pacific Daylight Time, gpowell@ennovatenetworks.com writes: << Why not double nut? It's real tought to get up inside the control arm to get a wrench on a single nut! >> I disagree, I have double nutted mine, the second nut is much easier since it can be tightened right in the opening in the sub frame, not buried like the first one. This is not what I would call a "tough" procedure. Javad From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 12:00:45 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Help needed with Trunk Lock on Type 44 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002105546.00bcbef0@traverse.com> That sliding sound may be the rod that runs from the vacuum "motor" or solenoid, or whatever it's called to the lock assembly to cycle the lock on and off along with all the door locks. It's held in place by a clip that may have slid off. If you examine the back of the lock assembly, you can see the rod coming in from the vacuum dohicky (Audi ? term). It's even easier to spot if you watch while someone else manipulates the central locking from the driver door. The other liklihood, of course, is that the lever on the lock assembly is kahputtt. At 11:59 AM 09/27/2000 -0700, Adam Jansen wrote: >Went through the Bentley and it isn't helping >On Type 44 the central locking system is supposed to work all the doors AND >the truck lock? >My truck lock appears to be stuck in the manual operation mode (e.g. to open >stick in key, turn key push in) > >I can hear something sliding in the trunk area when I unlock the doors, but >cannot find the problem > >thanks > >Adam >87 5KCSQ 201,345 miles >Everett, WA >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From rmezic at keyspanenergy.com Mon Oct 2 11:55:07 2000 From: rmezic at keyspanenergy.com (RICHARD MEZIC) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: FW: Inspection / Battery Message-ID: <001401c02c80$c11ccca0$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> Monday morning problems: - NYS inspection is due on the '91 Audi 200 wagon today. While driving the car this weekend, I noticed a sound like "rushing air" below the passenger side rear seat. I removed the seat (while parked) and there was nothing wrong. Thinking it was the fuel pump on the way out, I proceeded to look under the car and noticed that the shield below the center resonator appears to be rotted through. I'm assuming the worst and thinking it rotted from the inside out due to condensation. This would explain the (sometimes) rotten egg smell and the (sometimes) smell of fuel like the car was running rich. I dropped the car off at the mechanic this morning and I'm waiting for his call... Like I said, I *need* to have the inspection done... The question is - if it *is* the center resonator/cat, can this be replaced and would this be compatible with an aftermarket exhaust in the future? I'd hate to spend $$$ on replacing the resonator, only to have to get rid of it in the future *if* I go the route of an aftermarket, high-perf exhaust. Could this noise also be the fuel pump? NAC question: My '97 Passat TDI needs a new battery. It seems reasonable to me (for a 3-year-old car) because the car spends the week in the garage and only comes out to play on the weekend. The battery was dead when I recently tried to start the car. I removed the caps, topped the cells off with (approved) water and let it charge overnight. The half near the positive terminal spewed black gunk all over the top of the battery and the negative half seemed OK. Upon disconnection from the battery charger, it was unable to start the car. No lights, no reading on the odometer, nothing. Time for a new battery?... Replace with a standard "VARTA"?... Additional question - why does VW/AUdi not use a sealed battery? Or the better question - are sealed batteries truly sealed? Or can you just NOT add water to them when they die out? Looking at the "green eye" to see if the battery is charged is kinda convenient. Thanks in advance to all! Hit me with the BTDTs - the list hasn't failed me yet! -RJM- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/e6878375/attachment.htm From lindgre at online.no Mon Oct 2 17:48:14 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1991 200T References: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> Message-ID: <39D8A02E.2DDE5533@online.no> Brett Dikeman wrote: > At 10:08 PM +0100 10/1/00, Jim Haseltine wrote: > > >In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo > >last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... > > At least on the 960, it's very hard to "accidentally" leave it on. > The rear fog light, when on, also lights a -very- bright orange light > in the instrument cluster. On some new cars, the rear fog light turns it self off when you turn off the lights. The Golf 3 and 4 are good examples of this. No chance of forgetting the rear fog light. Most of the problem is people forgetting they even turned it on, because they are virtually sleeping behind the wheel. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From Eric.Harten at nellis.af.mil Mon Oct 2 09:14:33 2000 From: Eric.Harten at nellis.af.mil (Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! Message-ID: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDA9@lsv-ms-422tes.nellis.af.mil> Hell has officially frozen over!! My automotively apathetic wife asked me what that whooshing sound was when I got on it in second gear the other day (in her new 2001 A4 1.8T). (me)"That is the wastegate venting extra boost and power" I said. (wife)"Is there no way to keep that in, it seems like such a waste!" (me)"Yes dear; a chip would do the trick." (wife)"Well, look in to one" THERE YOU HAVE IT! Cleared hot to chip her car! I heard the Garrett chip seems to be a local favorite. Does anybody have number for them? I have not heard much about chips for the new high output 1.8T motor. Also, is the chip on the 2001 removable? So I can switch it out before going into the dealer for any motor related service? Thanks. Eric 95' 90SQ 01' A4 1.8TQ From Eric.Harten at nellis.af.mil Mon Oct 2 09:19:23 2000 From: Eric.Harten at nellis.af.mil (Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Anybody ever get the Blau high-flow throttle body for their 12v V 6? Message-ID: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDAA@lsv-ms-422tes.nellis.af.mil> Has anybody ever used Blau's high flow throttle body conversion for their 12v V6? I am seriously considering it for a bit more low end grunt. Any other manufacturers of such modifications besides Blau? Does $300 for such a mod seem out of line? Any thoughts? Thanks. Eric From jenny at physics.spa.umn.edu Mon Oct 2 11:22:22 2000 From: jenny at physics.spa.umn.edu (Jenny Curtis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Successful Body repair BTDT Message-ID: <39D8A829.2491ECF0@physics.spa.umn.edu> Hey Q-list: I gave the Princess a major facelift this week-end to remove rust pits and patch a hole. Here are the highlights. Last week-end: Used scraper to open up pits and see extent of damage. After a stiff drink and some tears, applied rustoleum rust converter to pits and a hole in my trunk. This week-end: Friday afternoon: Bought supplies, including paint mixed to match original paint code. (Match is almost perfect. I'm lucky enough to have little fading on my original paint, especially since I polished and waxed about a month ago). I got the paint from an auto body store that supplies most of the body shops in town. They'll mix paint and put it in spray cans for about $30 a can. Friday night: Pulled back trunk liner to patch hole with fiber glass patch and resin. Applied metal tape to front of hole on exterior of car to support patch. Used three layers of patch, I think it dried stronger than the surrounding metal. Saturday morning: Used grinding discs to remove all the black gunk left behind by rust converter (with 80 paper). Feathered into surrounding good paint with 100 and 200 paper. This is the hardest, most painful part: hurting good paint. Removed metal tape from hole and used bondo to add height to the patch. Formed it in a small lump over the top of the hole so that it could be sanded flat. Note: When using bondo, make sure you have fiberglass or plenty of bare metal behind it, or it will rust out from behind. Used 200 paper to sand bondo flush with surface of car. Masked all the trim, wheels, bumper and glass with masking tape and newspaper. Since work had to be done on the inside of doors, I also had to mask those to keep primer and paint from blowing into the interior. My car looked really ugly at this point. I went inside and had a sandwhich and a beer. It looked less scary then. Started priming with 6 coats of primer. Allowed primer to dry 20 minutes. Wet sanded. I'd never done this before but I was really impressed by the results. You use a fine grit paper on a block sander and sand while flooding the area with a wet sponge. The result is an absolutely glossy, silky finish. Dried the car with a chamois and used some bondo glazing putty to fill in any little pinholes size pits that might be visible through the primer. Allowed putty to dry half and hour and then wet sanded the putty. Dried the car again and applied three more coats of primer. Waited a half hour to dry and then wet sanded that with very fine grit paper (500). Dried the car again and got out the spray enamel and applied two coats with a few minutes between coats. This is the most nerver wracking part because 9 hours of prep work came down to a few minutes spraying. Then there those annoying little glops which inevatably burp out of the spray can. Those can usually be polished out or touched up later, though. The results are really nice. I will finish up by waiting a few weeks before I polish and wax to blend the new paint into the old. As it is now, you cannot really tell where the new paint is and you absolutely cannot see where the rust was. The real test will be Minnesota winter. I'll know next May whether I did a really good job. One final note: It took my boyfriend and I about 9 hours on Saturday to complete all the sanding and priming. The wet sanding is especially difficult for one person to do well, and I think it would help to have an extra pair of hands for this job. I'm hoping to have photos and more complete info on my web page soon. Jenny 4kcsQ The Eurotrash Princess From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 17:25:12 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Slotted Rotors Message-ID: >> It would >> seem that in one instance the squeezing brake pads will cause the gases and/or >> moisture to flow towards the hub and in the other instance they would flow towards >> the edge of the rotor. Which is better and why? > Outside. You do not want to force the water inwards by the Coriolice > force of the cut grooves so that it fights the Centrifugical force > caused by the water-to-rotor friction. Dust and various gases too. Some mount them the other way round because it's quieter - the pads are pulled into the caliper frame when braking and there's no audible click. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 17:25:17 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: igntion switch and relief relay troubles Message-ID: > ... raining and in the middle of Wales ... Tautology. > Checking things the next day we work out it's likely to be the relief relay, > but we fall short of the real problem as a known good replacement had all the > same troubles. AA bloke gets the bright spark award for identifying a dodgy > contact in the ignition switch that the relief relay coil takes is juice from. Could have done that in my sleep. How heavy is your keyring? Any Swiss Army knives on it? Nightsticks? Tin baths? > Now my question, it's not that hard to replace the ignition switch is it? Do I > need to drill the column to remove the ignition barrel to get to the switch or > can I do it without? There's a black plastic connector on the rear of the > barrel that I didn't have time to play with as I had to get the last train back > to Swansea last night, is it as easy as pulling that out? Leave the lock barrel in place. Take out the upper section of the steering column, pull it out of the sleeve, and take out the small grub screw that holds the switch into the back of the barrel. Don't forget a new shear bolt to hold the column in - otherwise your insurance is invalidated. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From ad at tibco.com Mon Oct 2 09:42:05 2000 From: ad at tibco.com (Adrian Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Tire pressures for A4 Avant with sport pkg Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20001002084205.00b0da40@venus.tibco.com> Listers, I checked my tire pressures yesterday and was so shocked at what my gauge was showing I assumed that the gauge was kaput. After buying a new gauge I confirmed that my old gauge was in fact working properly and the dealer had indeed pumped the tires up to 44 psi (measured with cold tires)!! This seems way too high to me. According to the chart on the fuel filler door, the recommended pressure is 32 psi for up to 3 adults with a little baggage and 42 psi for 5 adults with lots of baggage. Since I do most of my miles on the freeway with just me in the car wouldn't 32 psi be right for me? Wheels and tires are standard sport package, i.e. 16-inch alloy wheels with 205/55 Dunlop SP8000e tires. Also, what are the effects of over and under inflation on cornering and braking? Thanks, AD. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 17:24:57 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: > As for why rear fogs are forbidden in the rain, I don't understand > why. It would seem to still serve as a marker function, not unlike > tailights on Formula cars. Dazzle. Formula One cars don't have brake lights. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 17:25:02 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) Message-ID: > But, on the subject of non-volatile memory, I will > assert that a memory circuit that you can wipe by > simply removing power _IS_ VOLATILE! The ECU is > simply obtaining some of its power sources straight > from the battery rather than through key switches, > relays, etc. All memory circuits are ultimately volatile - it's just a question of the size of the bomb. My point is that the MAC14 is non-volatile in normal use, whereas MAC01/02/05/07/11/12 lose their stored codes whenever the ignition is switched off. > I've worked on a tremendous amount of electronic gear > with backup batteries (often lithium) used for memory, > product configuration, clock/calendars, ad nauseam. > It is my understanding that true "non-volatile" memory > means you have memory that won't change state when all > power is removed. There was one group of products > that had a very stringent method to change said > battery...if you got it wrong, you needed to send the > product back to the factory for reprogramming. The radio originally envisaged for the ur-quattro had seventy memories that were guaranteed to retain programmed frequencies for ten years using EEPROMS. Unfortunately Audi decided that Blaupunkt had a better reputation in overseas markets than Philips - just as Daimler-Benz has had to drop the superb Becker range in many export markets because the brand is virtually unknown. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From tnas at euronet.nl Mon Oct 2 09:07:14 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Urq hood struts Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001002075649.00ae8450@mail.euronet.nl> I've since received messages telling me it's no problem fitting OE struts to cars not so equipped and saw a couple of cars where OE struts would NOT fit. The bottom line: before you try to fit an OE hood strut to your car which was not so equipped from the factory look closely at the construction of the inner hood strengthening, especially at the point where the strut hanger attaches. If there's a slot to accommodate the strut, you're set. If there's not you'll have to go for an aftermarket setup. I've found no logic to the presence and absence of such slots, but we're accustomed to that... HTH, Tom From ameer at snet.net Mon Oct 2 12:47:54 2000 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ In-Reply-To: <00e001c02c42$ba757f20$0201a8c0@pnix.net> References: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002114544.009f44d0@pop.snet.net> I don't really understand the difference between plastic and metal. The only 'plastic' I could see is the overflow tube on top. I thought the rad. was aluminum. What is the metal one made out of. Is the only difference in the overflow tube, so it doesn't snap off? Or is it a different material...ie. brass? thanks. -ameer At 03:31 AM 10/2/00, you wrote: > > If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator >that > > lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you > > really expect to have the car another 10 years? > >... IME the Modines are available for around the same price as the >discounted dealer price. When I got the replacement for the 4kSQ from >Carlsen it was an all metal rad made in the Netherlands. I'm sorry, but I >don't happen to agree here on replacing with plastic at all, but if it is >cool for you, go ahead! The thought that an overtightened radiator hose >might lead to a warped head is enough to make up my mind ... > >Steve Buchholz >San Jose, CA (USA) > >... with experience on just about all of my Audis with an unexpected >catastrophic failure of a plastic rad tank, heater hose or pump without >warning in almost every case ... I've learnt my lesson! > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 12:49:21 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! References: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDA9@lsv-ms-422tes.nellis.af.mil> Message-ID: <39D8AE81.483AFDE3@mestek.com> I've heard great things about Autothority chips over TAP, and I plan to go with Authority on my V8. They should be available now, and as I understand it (I know this for a fact on VW), all OBDII ECU's should be plug-n-play. They are solderless EPROMS. I'm not completely positive on the Audis, but I know it's the case on VW, and I think on all OBDII's. Theron Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE wrote: > Hell has officially frozen over!! My automotively apathetic wife asked me > what that whooshing sound was when I got on it in second gear the other day > (in her new 2001 A4 1.8T). (me)"That is the wastegate venting extra boost > and power" I said. (wife)"Is there no way to keep that in, it seems like > such a waste!" (me)"Yes dear; a chip would do the trick." (wife)"Well, > look in to one" THERE YOU HAVE IT! Cleared hot to chip her car! I > heard the Garrett chip seems to be a local favorite. Does anybody have > number for them? I have not heard much about chips for the new high output > 1.8T motor. Also, is the chip on the 2001 removable? So I can switch it > out before going into the dealer for any motor related service? Thanks. > > Eric > > 95' 90SQ > 01' A4 1.8TQ > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From Audi_80 at email.msn.com Mon Oct 2 13:07:45 2000 From: Audi_80 at email.msn.com (Alexander van Gerbig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Slotted Rotors References: Message-ID: <00a201c02c8a$e94e36a0$0101fea9@99e6s> I have seen cars with the slots facing the other direction, forwards. My Coleman rotors have slots that follow the directional vanes inside the rotor. According to a matey of mine the DTM cars are running slots in the forwards direction vs. the traditional slanted back following the vanes configuration. Coleman can do slots going the opposite way of the vanes is asked nicely. Coleman says the slots are just pad wipers, no real cooling benefits. They keep the pad from glazing in high stress/heat apps, fires slots. Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 The Audi 80 Pages----------------- http://surf.to/the80pages.com North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 From JordanVw at aol.com Mon Oct 2 12:28:56 2000 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: FS: type44 black leather back seatbottom, plus other parts Message-ID: <3b.aa45e1f.270a03b8@aol.com> nice shape, black leather rear seat bottom. no splits or rips. p-mail if interested. also parting out 5kT, i have other parts too..ask. chris From armanmik at n-jcenter.com Mon Oct 2 12:19:06 2000 From: armanmik at n-jcenter.com (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 560 SEL AMG (NAC) Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20001002111906.300f3fae@n-jcenter.com> Got a client who has a 1984 560 SEL (big four door) AMG package (real), maroon, gold trim, brown leather, under 100K miles, very nice shape, and needs to sell it. Got some quickie digital pix if that will help, better ones coming next week. Any idea what this bolide is worth and/or best places to hustle it? Best Regards, Mike Arman From Steadi at swbell.net Mon Oct 2 12:02:46 2000 From: Steadi at swbell.net (Eric Fletcher S.O.C.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > Dazzle. > > Formula One cars don't have brake lights. Hmmm Phil, Then why would F1 cars have RAIN LIGHTS mounted on the base of the wing? Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From BeattyR at ummhc.org Mon Oct 2 13:10:30 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: V8 Engine Problem Message-ID: > -----Original Message----- > From: Weiss, Dave [SMTP:Dave.Weiss@MKG.com] > Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 8:19 PM > To: 'quattro@audifans.com' > Subject: V8 Engine Problem > > > 1) Leakdown can't check oil rings because they have different angle to > cylinder walls when engine is running. Also, ring gaps could be lined up. > Probably valve guides, but if head teardown shows they're not too bad, can > replace rings (and rod bearings). $1800-2500 if it's just the head(s). > $5000 absolute worst case w/ used engine (and he says can swap rear plates > to mate auto engine up to 5-speed). > If you go with option one.... there is more than just changing rear plates for an Auto trans motor to a standard.... You must also put in a guide for the timing belt on the standard trans motors to keep the timing from jumping teeth if using the engine for braking... I'm sure some of the other V-8 guys can back me up on this. Rob From mchang at ee.washington.edu Mon Oct 2 10:51:37 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: On Sun, 1 Oct 2000 Kwattro@aol.com wrote: > piece, if you think about it. Sounds like the guy or gal is in with a body > shop. There are also paints that can be used on lights, giving the effect of I was just shocked by the very "factory" look of it all. I suppose that it could have been a body shop deal, but the car looked rather stock otherwise, and totally un-tricked out. Oh well... twas interesting, and confirmed to my wife that I am indeed crazy. -- The surest way to corrupt a youth is to instruct him to hold in higher esteem those who think alike than those who think differently. -- Nietzsche From rmyers at oak.total-web.net Mon Oct 2 13:52:39 2000 From: rmyers at oak.total-web.net (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! In-Reply-To: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDA9@lsv-ms-422tes.nelli s.af.mil> Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.2.20001002125108.020296f0@mail.oak.total-web.net> MY GOD!!!! Does she have a sister?!? My bachelor son would like to meet her. At 11:14 AM 10/2/00, Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE wrote: >Hell has officially frozen over!! My automotively apathetic wife asked me >what that whooshing sound was when I got on it in second gear the other day >(in her new 2001 A4 1.8T). (me)"That is the wastegate venting extra boost >and power" I said. (wife)"Is there no way to keep that in, it seems like >such a waste!" (me)"Yes dear; a chip would do the trick." (wife)"Well, >look in to one" THERE YOU HAVE IT! Cleared hot to chip her car! I >heard the Garrett chip seems to be a local favorite. Does anybody have >number for them? I have not heard much about chips for the new high output >1.8T motor. Also, is the chip on the 2001 removable? So I can switch it >out before going into the dealer for any motor related service? Thanks. > >Eric > >95' 90SQ >01' A4 1.8TQ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.193 / Virus Database: 93 - Release Date: 9/19/00 Bob ***** Robert L. Myers rmyers@oak.total-web.net Home 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From MCTXR4 at aol.com Mon Oct 2 13:56:48 2000 From: MCTXR4 at aol.com (MCTXR4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! Message-ID: www.giac.com From magliocc at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 2 10:58:59 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: smog rack redux ('93 v6-12v) Message-ID: <20001002165859.26940.qmail@web2903.mail.yahoo.com> I'm singing the "4444" blues. The car is still sick but the ECU is singing a different tune. Score thus far: Smog Rack 2, Bill 0. 1) Test results, 1st visit (9/26) & second visit (10/2) , limit HC-ppm: 98, 95, limit 117 PASS BOTH CO-%: 0.29, 0.24, limit 0.65 PASS BOTH NO-ppm: 1171, 0946, limit 0821 FAIL BOTH CO+CO2%: 14.2, 14.6, min 6.0% PASS BOTH Same machine did the tests. Over the weekend: two new o2 sensors, 6 new Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and replaced a cracked vacuum line coming off the intake manifold Decided to visit Mr. Midas. Believe or not, the manager did not try to sell me cats! His generics won't fit. He also felt that the engine could be massaged by the local smog guru tech for less than the cats. Doesn't think the cats are bad. Smog guru didn't want to discuss much with me after looking at the test reports. Wants me to drop it off and pay the $75 etc. What confuses me is that both of these "MLs" seem to think timing is an issue. OK, I have distributorless ignition so they can't rotate something that's not there. This engine is so highly controlled that I wonder just how much CAN be adjusted. After all, there is no CO control and the Federal/CA label indicates there are no adjustments. Paying someone $75 to tell me the cats are bad seems a waste. When I made noises like that, the guy got pissed. Says he's from Detroit and does not like "furrin" cars anyway. OK, gallery, give it another shot. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From frank at zk3.dec.com Mon Oct 2 14:00:00 2000 From: frank at zk3.dec.com (Douglas Frank) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Tire pressures for A4 Avant with sport pkg References: <3.0.5.32.20001002084205.00b0da40@venus.tibco.com> Message-ID: <39D8BF10.AC1D8A67@zk3.dec.com> Adrian Johnson wrote: > > I checked my tire pressures yesterday and was so shocked at what my > gauge was showing I assumed that the gauge was kaput. ... > the dealer had indeed pumped the tires up to 44 psi (measured with > cold tires)!! This seems way too high to me. My dealer told me the cars arrive off the boat with tires inflated to 90 psi. That's what she said-- 90! -- Douglas Frank Compaq Computer Corp. Larceny, n. A sturdy fiber ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. of which the human heart is 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 more or less composed. From tyoung at wamnet.com Mon Oct 2 13:11:06 2000 From: tyoung at wamnet.com (Todd Young) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! References: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDA9@lsv-ms-422tes.nellis.af.mil> <39D8AE81.483AFDE3@mestek.com> Message-ID: <39D8C1AA.2307BA3D@wamnet.com> Personally, I'd go to GIAC (Garrett Lim), he is a magic man when it comes to chipping Audi/VW. http://www.giacusa.com/welcome.html "Theron J. Bliss" wrote: > I've heard great things about Autothority chips over TAP, and I plan to go > with Authority on my V8. They should be available now, and as I understand it > (I know this for a fact on VW), all OBDII ECU's should be plug-n-play. They > are solderless EPROMS. I'm not completely positive on the Audis, but I know > it's the case on VW, and I think on all OBDII's. > > Theron > > Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE wrote: > > > Hell has officially frozen over!! My automotively apathetic wife asked me > > what that whooshing sound was when I got on it in second gear the other day > > (in her new 2001 A4 1.8T). (me)"That is the wastegate venting extra boost > > and power" I said. (wife)"Is there no way to keep that in, it seems like > > such a waste!" (me)"Yes dear; a chip would do the trick." (wife)"Well, > > look in to one" THERE YOU HAVE IT! Cleared hot to chip her car! I > > heard the Garrett chip seems to be a local favorite. Does anybody have > > number for them? I have not heard much about chips for the new high output > > 1.8T motor. Also, is the chip on the 2001 removable? So I can switch it > > out before going into the dealer for any motor related service? Thanks. > > > > Eric > > > > 95' 90SQ > > 01' A4 1.8TQ > > _______________________________________________ > > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > > please visit the web interface at > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro -- ----------------------------------------------------------- Life's a beach. Dig your toes into the sand and enjoy. ----------------------------------------------------------- Todd Young WAM!NET Inc. tyoung@wamnet.com 655 Lone Oak Drive, Bldg#A 651-256-5051 Eagan, MN 55121 800-585-1133 ext.5051 http://www.wamnet.com/ '93 Audi 90S(|___\====OOOO====/___|) From markbyrum at erols.com Mon Oct 2 14:14:33 2000 From: markbyrum at erols.com (Mark W. Byrum, Jr.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) References: <4.3.2.7.0.20001002074710.00aec8b0@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <39D8C279.7A3D5DF6@erols.com> FWIW, I have to "Amen" the body shop connection. The taxi cabs in our neck of the woods often appear with various "body color" trim that was not in the original. Sounds like the owner liked the updated "body color" everything possible as opposed to chrome or brushed aluminum. Mark '95 Sport 90 '86 4kcsq Tom Nas wrote: > "Mark L. Chang" wrote: > > >> Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in >> Seattle, WA. >> Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things >> off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very >> factory: >> The non-factory mods: >> 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) >> 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) >> 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) >> The factory-looking mods: >> 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both >> bumper >> cover assemblies were painted full body color. >> 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. >> 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about >> knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say >> here: >> http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg >> But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings >> that >> were very nice looking. >> I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't >> find >> it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. > > > Sounds like a custom paint job to me, as Euro 90qs never had more > parts painted body colour than the US 4ks. > > My site's at http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/AudiJunk/ > > Regards, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/5f5a0f1c/attachment.htm From Doyt at nwonline.net Mon Oct 2 14:26:23 2000 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ In-Reply-To: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002114544.009f44d0@pop.snet.net> References: <00e001c02c42$ba757f20$0201a8c0@pnix.net> <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20001002131510.00a31e60@mail.nwonline.net> If you want to know more about radiator replacement and repair, these websites will help, really fast: START HERE: http://www.radiatorinfo.com/index.html THEN GO TO: http://www.radiatorinfo.com/modine.html HELPFUL QUOTE: "Minor radiator problems can often be repaired, although you should be aware that repairing is frequently a short-term solution to a long-term problem. Copper/brass radiators are bonded with solder which can deteriorate and corrode. The newer aluminum radiators are somewhat more durable, but are also more difficult to repair. Plastic tanks on many newer cars present a different set of problems, but in most cases can be replaced. For all radiators, higher engine temperatures increase expansion and contraction. Before risking failures and costly engine and transmission damage, consult with a cooling system professional who can advise you of your replace, recore and repair options." LIST OF RADIATOR SPECIALISTS, VENDORS, with phone numbers: http://www.radiatorinfo.com/phonenumbers.html >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 11:47 AM 10/2/00 -0400, you wrote: I don't really understand the difference between plastic and metal. The only 'plastic' I could see is the overflow tube on top. I thought the rad. was aluminum. What is the metal one made out of. Is the only difference in the overflow tube, so it doesn't snap off? Or is it a different material...ie. brass? thanks. -ameer From VWAudiPorscheNut at aol.com Mon Oct 2 14:29:13 2000 From: VWAudiPorscheNut at aol.com (VWAudiPorscheNut@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1 wire O2 sensor? HELP! Message-ID: <5f.b3045b4.270a1fe9@aol.com> Hi Guys, My daily driver, a 1988 Jetta GL 1.8L Digifant, needs an O2 sensor... apparently someone cut the wire, and put a spark plug in the bung (smart huh?) Anyway, a new 3 wire is like $143, and a little pricey for my wallet. I was curious is I can use a 1 wire? I know there is no heater, I assume the computer would just stay open loop for a bit longer, right? Thanks for any help! Jay 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh 44mm carbs, 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a truck....) From randrews at austin.rr.com Mon Oct 2 13:32:06 2000 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Tire pressures for A4 Avant with sport pkg References: <3.0.5.32.20001002084205.00b0da40@venus.tibco.com> <39D8BF10.AC1D8A67@zk3.dec.com> Message-ID: <006201c02c96$afbeaf80$f855a218@austin.rr.com> > > My dealer told me the cars arrive off the boat with tires > inflated to 90 psi. That's what she said-- 90! > Thats gotta be wrong...most tires would explode at that pressure From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 14:32:49 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Tire pressures for A4 Avant with sport pkg References: <3.0.5.32.20001002084205.00b0da40@venus.tibco.com> <39D8BF10.AC1D8A67@zk3.dec.com> Message-ID: <39D8C6C1.C89628B8@mestek.com> 90???? That's a bit high. Douglas Frank wrote: > Adrian Johnson wrote: > > > > I checked my tire pressures yesterday and was so shocked at what my > > gauge was showing I assumed that the gauge was kaput. > ... > > the dealer had indeed pumped the tires up to 44 psi (measured with > > cold tires)!! This seems way too high to me. > > My dealer told me the cars arrive off the boat with tires > inflated to 90 psi. That's what she said-- 90! > > -- > Douglas Frank Compaq Computer Corp. Larceny, n. A sturdy fiber > ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. of which the human heart is > 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 more or less composed. > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From DAWSON-MD at email.msn.com Mon Oct 2 14:41:53 2000 From: DAWSON-MD at email.msn.com (DAWSON-MD) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Help needed with Trunk Lock on Type 44 Message-ID: <017601c02c98$263a9b00$30891b3f@oemcomputer> The trunk lock works in two ways. 1) lock works in conjunction with all the other doors. 2) trunk stays locked regardless of whether the other doors are locked are not. If I remember correctly (car and owner's manual are 30 miles away) turning the trunk lock to the left sets the lock to operate with the doors, turning right keeps it locked (what you call manual mode). My trunk lock didn't "work right" for the first year of ownership either; until I read the owners manual! Silly me! Mike 83 Urq 84 4Kq 87 5Ktq 77 Ferrari 308 GT4 From frank at zk3.dec.com Mon Oct 2 14:47:06 2000 From: frank at zk3.dec.com (Douglas Frank) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Tire pressures for A4 Avant with sport pkg References: <3.0.5.32.20001002084205.00b0da40@venus.tibco.com> <39D8BF10.AC1D8A67@zk3.dec.com> <006201c02c96$afbeaf80$f855a218@austin.rr.com> Message-ID: <39D8CA1A.F02820FD@zk3.dec.com> Rob Andrews wrote: > > Thats gotta be wrong...most tires would explode at that pressure Nevertheless, that's what she said. As to exploding, well I sure wouldn't want to hit a railroad crossing with tires at 90 psi... but I've done it. Back in '75 I took my X-1/9 to a garage to have the snows balanced and mounted. The owner asked his son to check the inflation. I stood by and watched the poor kid, about 10 years old, struggle to get a seal with the air hose. He kept at it until he got a reading of 32 psi, but with all the hissing going on, that had to be low. I eased the car across Idaho Falls, across the tracks, and home to my own pressure gauge. All were over 90 psi. -- Douglas Frank Compaq Computer Corp. Larceny, n. A sturdy fiber ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. of which the human heart is 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 more or less composed. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 19:46:32 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: >> Formula One cars don't have brake lights. > Then why would F1 cars have RAIN LIGHTS mounted on the base of the wing? Erm - because they don't have brake lights? If they're not present, there's no possibility of them being masked by a rear light. And it's not just a 'rain' light - it's also used in fog. Agreed, not many F1 races take place in fog these days, but it used to be common on the old Nuerburgring. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From auditude at neta.com Mon Oct 2 11:27:27 2000 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge In-Reply-To: <6d.a00f708.2709d713@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D8630F.22553.B4B494@localhost> Does the idiot light come on with the key on at all? On the Coupe GT's and such, if the bulb is burnt out, then no signal is sent to tell the alternator to do its job. Ken Thefredx@aol.com wrote: > > no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot > light does not report trouble! > this car is not on the road yet...i just bought it (crunched front pass > fender s.b. easy fix) ive owned a urq for 9 yrs so i figured by now i've > gotten used to "audi hell"! :-o > any help out there for a cheap pass side headlight? > car is pearl w/stock pearl rims (not fuchs) 2 owner 128kmiles > also, this car has low black rubber deck spoiler...looks factory; i've never > seen one on a 5k. any info on this spoiler? > From audi90quattro at hotmail.com Mon Oct 2 18:53:51 2000 From: audi90quattro at hotmail.com (Scott Sierakowski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1.8T in 90Q Message-ID: Does anyone know if a 1.8T motor will bolt up to a 95 90q V6 5sp transmission? thanks -scott _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From a4 at d-9.net Mon Oct 2 14:48:59 2000 From: a4 at d-9.net (Audi A4) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: any chips for 2001 1.8T available yet? HELL HAS FROZEN OVER!! In-Reply-To: <39D8C1AA.2307BA3D@wamnet.com> Message-ID: I believe that Audi Performance and Racing (APR) has a 2001 model as well. You can buy an option on that chip that will let you toggle between stock and "chipped" settings so you can change very quickly before you take it in for service. This is done with the cruise controls levers. This is the one I am thinking of getting for my 2001 www.goapr.com Jon On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Todd Young wrote: > Personally, I'd go to GIAC (Garrett Lim), he is a magic man when it comes to > chipping Audi/VW. > > http://www.giacusa.com/welcome.html > From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 20:25:43 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: > Boy, you really get the crazy problems, don't you? Normally would say to > check and clean all grounds (common problem). But since this is affecting > both dash, starting, as well as keeping it running, then it sounds like a > power line off the starter or Alternator that feeds all these areas. I > don't have the wiring diagram but I say corrosion on a main power feed. I get the normal ones too - I just post the real whacky ones in case someone else has seen them before. In this case I think it's some general electrical malaise - perhaps water ingress somewhere. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 20:25:49 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Rebore one pot only? Message-ID: > I've been thinking again (that can be dangerous). Phil, I'd normally > recommend boring out the damaged cylinder oversize but due to the high cost > of just one piston I'd say sleeve the cylinder block back to standard. Thought of that, but worried about heat transfer in a turbo engine. Standard size pistons are a drug on the market here. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 20:25:57 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Cibie lights available in U.S. Message-ID: >> Cibie were the standard and sole providers of lights for the European >> ur-quattros from about 1982 until the end of production. > I don't believe that is quite right. The ur q lights I purchased a few > years back were made by Hella. These are the motorized beam height > adjustable units for the late ur q. I believe that in-cockpit beam > height adjustment was mandatory in Germany (correct me if I am wrong) > beginning in '89 or '90. The Cibie units I have seen do not have this > provision, but the Hellas do. I do prefer the look of the Cibie lens, > as they seem to have a less faceted appearance. > You will notice that the family album lists both the Cibie and Hella > units. Yers. The Hellas have a 'D..' mark against them - Germany only - and adjustable lights were only fitted to 20Vs. So I think we're talking about 130 out of 11,000+ cars. I'm not aware of any legal requirement, but the feature was very high profile in marketing by, e.g., Daimler-Benz at the time. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 20:26:23 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: [urq] Delrin bushings Message-ID: >> Why not double nut? It's real tought to get up inside the control arm >> to get a wrench on a single nut! > I disagree, I have double nutted mine, the second nut is much easier > since it can be tightened right in the opening in the sub frame, not buried > like the first one. This is not what I would call a "tough" procedure. The following was already written and will appear in the November UK club newsletter: It goes in BACKWARDS!?! Audi's service documentation states quite explicitly that some bolts MUST be inserted from the rear of the car with the nut facing the front. One prime example is the lower ball joint clamp bolt on each suspension strut. The reason is safety - the longtitudinal G-force experienced during braking is much greater than anything achieved during acceleration - should the nut ever fall off, natural use of the car will cause the bolt to slide forward during braking and remain in place - even without a nut. Of course, the nut shouldn't ever fall off - for this reason Audi recommends that both the self-locking nut and the bolt be replaced each time. Self-locking nuts should only ever be used once - but the bolt is a different issue. Where there is no corrosion (e.g., on the bolts securing the pedal frame to the car inside the passenger compartment) then it's OK to replace just the nut. Where there is corrosion - nowhere more of a problem than on the suspension - then the bolt must also be replaced. Winding a self-locking nut over a corroded bolt just destroys the self-locking function, regardless of whether this is achieved with a plastic insert or deliberate nut malformation. Of course, as many of us know, corroded bolts have a self-locking function all of their own. Don't forget that wishbone bushes must not be fully tightened until the car's weight is on its wheels. If they're tightened with the car in the air and the wheels unsupported, putting the car back on its wheels applies a strong bias to the bushes leading to early failure. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 20:26:18 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Counterpoint to replacement of trans fluid Message-ID: > I'm also curious about this, and I was also wondering how you check the levels > of tranny fluid. Mine has a dip stick tube, but just a red cap on the top. > Should there be a dip stick, or is this something where they expect you to go to > the dealer for? Yes, they do - but you can buy a dipstick as a spare part. Try part # 018 321 431D. >> Recently, I spoke to one of the two V8Q factory trained wrenches employed at >> a local dealership regarding replacement of the transmission fluid and >> filter. I indicated I was leaning towards synthetic ATF. His response was >> interesting, saying that he did not recommend replacement of the trans fluid >> on these cars (unless the car has very low mileage), only checking and >> topping off the fluid level. His rationale was that over time, the >> thickening of the original fluid and resulting "varnish" tends to hold all >> the pieces together, compensating somewhat for a slight increase in >> tolerances with age. Introducing new fluid, he believes, may have been >> responsible for a car developing trans problems shortly after fluid >> replacement. Why was the new fluid introduced in the first place? Was the owner becoming suspicious? In that event, failure shortly afterwards should be no surprise. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From randrews at austin.rr.com Mon Oct 2 14:25:38 2000 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1/8NPT fittin to metric adapter? Message-ID: <001d01c02c9e$2a250ce0$f855a218@austin.rr.com> I'm installing an oil pressure gauge on the A4 and I cant' seem to source a 1/8NPT fitting to 10mm fitting. Anyone have a good source for one of these? Later! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rob Andrews - Dell Home Sales Division 1800-879-3355 ext 47218 Rob_Andrews@Dell.com randrews@austin.rr.com ICQ # 4385114 99 A4 2.8QS... http://home.austin.rr.com/robsquattro -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/5cbdd7cd/attachment.htm From pchandyman at intrex.net Mon Oct 2 15:40:04 2000 From: pchandyman at intrex.net (Noah Godwin) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 2pc Manifold needed (5kcstq) Message-ID: <003301c02ca0$2f5d3140$6401a8c0@mercury> I need a 2 pc exhaust manifold for my '86 5kcstq. Can this part be found anywhere for a reasonable price? -Noah -84 UrQ -86 5kcstq -83 Callaway Scirocco (for sale) http://pchandyman.tripod.com/ From quattroking at hotmail.com Mon Oct 2 12:34:48 2000 From: quattroking at hotmail.com (The Quattro King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: What kind of Wheel locks? Message-ID: What are the preferred type of wheel lock to buy? I think I remember something about Euro Locks or something to that effect. TIA, Shayne P. 1972 MB 280 SEL 1984 4ksq 1987 4ks 1991 v8q5 1991 200q Sedan 1992 S4 Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Mon Oct 2 14:47:00 2000 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Anybody ever get the Blau high-flow throttle body for their 12v V6? In-Reply-To: <03646B74FF4DD411BCAC00A0C9B41AEA2FBDAA@lsv-ms-422tes.nellis.af.mil> Message-ID: I have been considering doing this myself. In conversation with Jim Blau, he said that boring the throttle body actually produces a seat-of-the-pants feeling of improvement. I think it only slightly increases power, but expands the powerband. It would be nice to have something under 3200 rpm. 300 bones is a pretty big price, though, considering you do most of the work yourself(r/r), and it requires your core. As with anything, several upgrades multiply the imporvement. I think I may do it sometime in the future, but I'd do it myself, not pay 300 bucks for 20-30 minutes worth of work. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Harten Eric C Capt 422 TES/DOE Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 10:19 AM To: 'quattro list' Subject: Anybody ever get the Blau high-flow throttle body for their 12v V6? Has anybody ever used Blau's high flow throttle body conversion for their 12v V6? I am seriously considering it for a bit more low end grunt. Any other manufacturers of such modifications besides Blau? Does $300 for such a mod seem out of line? Any thoughts? Thanks. Eric _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From armanmik at n-jcenter.com Mon Oct 2 15:38:58 2000 From: armanmik at n-jcenter.com (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: The dealer said . . . Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20001002143858.3567d0e8@n-jcenter.com> >> My dealer told me the cars arrive off the boat with tires >> inflated to 90 psi. That's what she said-- 90! Personally, if a car dealer told me the sun was shining, I'd walk outside and verify this for myself. Car dealers, and their wretched spawn, Monkey lads (tm), have attained nirvana of a sort, a blissful, almost total ignorance of the product which runs deep in their genetic makeup, and is almost as legendary as their dishonesty and incompetence. If Ambrose Bierce was alive and updated his "Devil's Dictionary" with an entry for car dealers, it might read something like this: "A particularly noxious form of human life which regards all other humans as it's rightful victims. The purpose of car dealers is to extract the maximum amount of blood from the victim, while giving the least possible value in return. The shoddy, unreliable and often unserviceable merchandise offered is designed by idiots, slapped toghether haphazardly by morons, and is then relentlessly marketed to nincompoops by charlatans. There is a special circle in Hell reserved for car dealers, with an even more uncomfortable area set aside for USED car dealers. The manager (warden?) of this circle has been quoted as "loving the smell of napalm in the morning." (I'm a little annoyed today - Sears is next on my "to call" list . . . ) Best Regards, Mike Arman From RndLiteBMW at aol.com Mon Oct 2 16:04:09 2000 From: RndLiteBMW at aol.com (RndLiteBMW@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: cracked UrQ EM Message-ID: <7e.afe8cd9.270a3629@aol.com> My UrQ is now making the classic Audi 5 cylinder cracked manifold "chuff chuff chuff." I noticed a slight ticking on startup on Saturday, and began to worry- then I autocrossed it yesterday. Now it sounds like old truck. I''ve forgotten-is the manifold an UrQ-only part? My questions are these: Can I still get a new manifold (Audi or aftermarket)? Are there good (better flowing?) aftermarket alternatives? I know about the Dialynx manifolds' tendency to crack, so that's out. Just wanted to see what the collective wisdom of the list thinks before I proceed :) Thanks for any help/advice! Tucker Fritch '83 UrQ ps: Has anyone fitted the 2B Quickrev downpipe to their cars? Any comments? From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 16:10:08 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: V8 Alarm Message-ID: <39D8DD90.421DBF9F@mestek.com> I'm planning to install a complete remote starter system with alarm, and keyless entry, however, until I stop buying parts for my car, I haven't saved up for the started yet. For now, I'm having problems with the factory alarm. First of all, I have to lock and unlock the car from the passengers side, because that little plastic thingy is broken in the drivers door. The alarm sounds, and sets, but on 4 occasions now, the alarm goes off for no apparent reason. I thought the alarm was passive like that on my 1996 Golf, which had no shock sensor, and only went off if the doors, trunk, etc. were opened, or if the car was hot wired. Does anyone have any ideas about this? On a happier note, after changing my O2 sensor with a factory one ($133), and seeing the improvement in gas mileage fro 12 to almost 22, I just got back from inspection, and this time, my emissions passed. One down, and a few more to go. Theron J. Bliss Massachusetts 1990 V8 Quattro 194,000 Miles From nhollow at sover.net Mon Oct 2 16:49:42 2000 From: nhollow at sover.net (Leslie Carlson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Good mechanic Message-ID: <00e001c02ca9$e93a9680$2375c6d1@HPnhollow> Does anyone out there know of a good, ethical, reasonable mechanic in or near Hoboken or Jersey City, New Jersey? My daughter took my 90 100Q down there and I want to make sure she can get any problems taken care off while she's at school. Thanks! Leslie 89 100 avant (I think I'll keep it!) 90 100Q From Mrbeau at roushind.com Mon Oct 2 16:40:31 2000 From: Mrbeau at roushind.com (Matthew Beaubien) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: V8 Engine Problem Message-ID: Dave, >I bought it, now at 125k. Ned's chip, other engine and exhaust stock. >Good compression all cylinders (and w/in 10%). Cylinders 2, 3, and 8 have >significant leakdown, and can hear air going into crankcase on those >cylinders. Plugs 2, 3, and 8 show a little more brown deposits than the >others. What sort of leakdown numbers are we talking about? 5%? 10%? 40%? None of the plugs have black deposits from burning oil? Could indicate that the exhaust valve guides/seals are shot, and the oil is entering the exhaust port and not the chamber. >1) Leakdown can't check oil rings because they have different angle to >cylinder walls when engine is running. Also, ring gaps could be lined up. Leakdown and compression tests can't tell you anything about the condition of the oil rings. You can have great compression and leakdown numbers but still burn lots of oil if the oil control rings are gummed up. Ring gaps that are lined-up will not produce "significant leakdown" values. If the oil rings are gummed up (chances are they're fine given synth oil and regular changes) you could conceivably free them and have it run fine. If the chip has caused any detonation, you could have broken rings/ring lands etc. Hope that helps. Matt Beaubien '86 5kt '73 911E From lindgre at online.no Mon Oct 2 22:56:38 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light References: Message-ID: <39D8E876.F211BBBD@online.no> isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk wrote: > >> Formula One cars don't have brake lights. > > > Then why would F1 cars have RAIN LIGHTS mounted on the base of the wing? > > Erm - because they don't have brake lights? If they're not present, > there's no possibility of them being masked by a rear light. And it's > not just a 'rain' light - it's also used in fog. Agreed, not many F1 > races take place in fog these days, but it used to be common on the > old Nuerburgring. The F1 cars make their own fog! They have no fenders etc so they blow up a lot of "steam" and spray with their wide wheels, thus being almost impossible to locate for the drivers behind. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From jervidae at cybermesa.com Mon Oct 2 14:39:50 2000 From: jervidae at cybermesa.com (Tom and Carlyn Jervis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: V8 Engine Problem In-Reply-To: <200010021504.LAA22757@audifans.com> References: <200010021504.LAA22757@audifans.com> Message-ID: If you squirt some (heavy) oil in the leaking cylinders, it should seal the rings against leakdown unless the wear is really bad (in which case the compression should be also). This should answer the question about rings versus valves and if the compression comes up a lot tell you something about cylinder wear. How do you know the air is going into the crankcase? Note that 500-700 miles/qt is probably within the "acceptable" range for Audi to avoid warranty claims (I think the limit is 600). It does not seem likely that this usage would be poisoning the O-2 sensor. Does it indicate anything on the diagnostic codes? Bad valve guides usually show smoke on shifting in my experience and if they are bad enough to cause poor seating, the valves are probably burned by now as well and the compression would show it. VW AG had a lot of problems with valve guide seals in VWs in the 70s and early 80s and may not have entirely solved the problems. I suspect something else is wrong that is causing the miss and a full diagnostic is called for. Check ign wires, for example. If not, I vote with wrench #2, fix the acute problems and leave the chronic ones unless you can verify that the valves are the problem. A lot depends on how committed you are to this car. Are you ready to rebuild the suspension, drivetrain, electricals, etc. as they begin to fail? Tom -- From frank at zk3.dec.com Mon Oct 2 17:17:18 2000 From: frank at zk3.dec.com (Douglas Frank) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <39D8ED4E.F2F77732@zk3.dec.com> Hello all, The Dunlop 8000e's that came on my A4 are nearing end of life. Any recommendations on what to replace them with are very welcome. I'm perfectly happy with the OEM tires, which may tell you something about how I drive (i.e., like your grandpa), but who knows... the Yokohama A520's look interesting... considerably less $ than the Dunlops.... BTW car has the sport suspension-- 205x55 R16. thanks! (I searched the archives... 7336 hits on 'a4 tire'... oh sure! :-) -- Douglas Frank Compaq Computer Corp. Larceny, n. A sturdy fiber ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. of which the human heart is 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 more or less composed. From MCTXR4 at aol.com Mon Oct 2 17:25:32 2000 From: MCTXR4 at aol.com (MCTXR4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <1e.b6fe76f.270a493c@aol.com> A tire you may like better than the 8000e would be the Dunlop SP5000. Good overall performance, v.good to excellent in the wet and M+S rated. Can be found at local tire discounters for less than $120 ea. I've had 'em on my hot rod A4 for about a year with no complaints. Mike Torio From jwamboldt at moseleycorp.com Mon Oct 2 17:35:17 2000 From: jwamboldt at moseleycorp.com (Justin Wamboldt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 Message-ID: <006B2F421AC5D211847300805F65E3F970A99D@MOSELEYNTSERVER> Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites I've found only offered chips for the 30v From randrews at austin.rr.com Mon Oct 2 16:35:25 2000 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 References: <006B2F421AC5D211847300805F65E3F970A99D@MOSELEYNTSERVER> Message-ID: <015601c02cb0$4b981c20$f855a218@austin.rr.com> Nope they dont exist Later! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rob Andrews - Dell Home Sales Division 1800-879-3355 ext 47218 Rob_Andrews@Dell.com randrews@austin.rr.com ICQ # 4385114 99 A4 2.8QS... http://home.austin.rr.com/robsquattro ----- Original Message ----- From: Justin Wamboldt To: Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites > I've found only offered chips for the 30v > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From kentmclean at mindspring.com Mon Oct 2 11:12:42 2000 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Avant Ouch! Message-ID: <000201c02cb0$a77f06c0$1c0df7a5@silknet.com> I'd like an Avant, but not this one.: http://www.srsvw.com/gifs/34.gif There is a comforting shot of the passenger compartment: http://www.srsvw.com/gifs/34.gif Kent McLean '89 200 TQ, with leaking front seal and squeaking belts From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Mon Oct 2 14:44:49 2000 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: ALMS at Laguna Seca / Problems with the "Bay Area" list Message-ID: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD105AFE332@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com> My apologies to all of you around the world who are not able to participate in the events in northern California. We have an e-mail list that was started by Scott Fisher which is used for audifans in the area to arrange to do things together. Well, it appears that for some reason this list is down ... which would not be a major problem ... except that the ALMS races at Laguna Seca will be happening in less than two weeks now! Hopefully Scott will be able to get things running again soon, but I thought I'd post here so that interested individuals could get in touch with me and we can set up some sort of ad hoc e-mail distribution scheme for the time being. At last we spoke it sounds like our last hope of being able to participate in a corral at the track is in the hands of Michael S Williams (no pressure Mike :) ... otherwise we're just going to have to caravan down to the track together. Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Mon Oct 2 16:46:13 2000 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 In-Reply-To: <006B2F421AC5D211847300805F65E3F970A99D@MOSELEYNTSERVER> Message-ID: Wetterauer is the only one I know of.(www.chip-tuning.com) In addition, they only make chips for certain ECU numbers. Be prepared to pay aroung 500-600 dollars for about 12 HP. Not worth it in my book. That's why nobody makes them. The 12v engine is not extremely tunable, without great investment. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Justin Wamboldt Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM To: 'quattro@audifans.com' Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites I've found only offered chips for the 30v _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From mchang at ee.washington.edu Mon Oct 2 14:43:51 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) In-Reply-To: <39D8ED4E.F2F77732@zk3.dec.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Douglas Frank wanted tire info: Dunlop D60A2 JLB. -- Out of memory. We wish to hold the whole sky, But we never will. -- Francis Heaney From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Tue Oct 3 10:48:02 2000 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: bmw's plans for 2001 In-Reply-To: <970497694.5713@egroups.com> Message-ID: <001001c02cb2$0fecec80$cb164290@DAVE> news that bmw is pulling out of the dtm and alms series next year. to concentrate on f1. for the alms, they will run an m3 apparently, but not the prototype. where that leaves dtm is open to question. with audi stating that they will not run a factory effort until the a4 coupe is available, if ever, this leaves abt and m-b alone in the dtm. alms should still be good value with audi/panoz and hopefully the new (ex riley & scott) caddy (rumours are for a prodrive chassis). whether the 2000 r8 will be enough against the new (petit le mans) panoz and the new caddy - time will tell. dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q From v8q at hotmail.com Mon Oct 2 15:02:58 2000 From: v8q at hotmail.com (K M) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: V8 Headlights Message-ID: A friend of mine is having problems installing his european headlamps on his Audi V8. They seem to be getting stuck on the wiper unit(which is riveted in place). Is there anything that has to be removed in order to install the light? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From audi90quattro at hotmail.com Mon Oct 2 22:17:52 2000 From: audi90quattro at hotmail.com (Scott Sierakowski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: CT Foliage Cruise 10/15 Message-ID: There is a CT car club outside Hartford called Wasserwerks. They (we) are having a foliage drive on 15th of October. You can find out more info at: http://www.wasserwerks.com/ The drive will be going into western CT and having a picnic in the afternoon. -scott _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 23:19:20 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: cracked UrQ EM Message-ID: > My UrQ is now making the classic Audi 5 cylinder cracked manifold "chuff > chuff chuff." I noticed a slight ticking on startup on Saturday, and began to > worry- then I autocrossed it yesterday. Now it sounds like old truck. I''ve > forgotten-is the manifold an UrQ-only part? My questions are these: Can I > still get a new manifold (Audi or aftermarket)? Are there good (better > flowing?) aftermarket alternatives? I know about the Dialynx manifolds' > tendency to crack, so that's out. Just wanted to see what the collective > wisdom of the list thinks before I proceed :) Thanks for any help/advice! Despite all the claims, I'm not aware of a better manifold than Audi's. They're very much still available (I fitted two last week) and somewhat cheaper (at least in the UK) than they were. The Dialynx manifold doesn't crack, it warps. On hydraulic lifter engines, like a wet board. A Dialynx manifold wrecked my MB's first head and I got the Big Red Bus GBP500 cheaper than market value because it had a Dialynx manifold warping off an MC-2 head. I had to rebuild the head and it now has four helicoils and one stepped stud. A few weeks ago I gave three Dialynx manifolds to a UK club member who wanted to hill-climb his car. There was a court case in the UK today in which a club member sued a workshop for some very bodged work. Roger Galvin went down to appear as a witness for the member - he and I wrote the initial report on the car's condition. Aelred (Dialynx) was also scheduled to appear on behalf of the workshop, though I don't think it was entirely voluntary. A lot of the case centres around a Dialynx manifold that has to be repeatedly retightened. We've already had the suspension bolt issue today - this (exhaust) issue is coincidentally another one that I've written about in the November newsletter: Exhaust manifolds revisited We seem to bang on a lot about 10V exhaust manifolds, but then that's what they do in many members' cars. As we've said before, the primary cause of manifold cracking seems to be failure of the right engine mount causing the engine to sit on the subframe. You can test for this by trying to pass a strip of paper around between engine and subframe. The turbo is heavy and supported only by the manifold - if the mount has failed, road shocks are transmitted directly to the assembly like hammer blows. In turn, the principle cause of engine mount failure seems to be the rusting away of the heatshield that should protect it from exhaust heat. The problem doesn't affect the 20V engine because all the heat is much further away from the engine mount. If its environment is correct (good mount, intact heatshield) there is no evidence that the original Audi 10V manifold has any undue liability to crack. Another source of problems is leakage, primarily caused by loose nuts, and this is where the story gets interesting. First of all - a loose stud or nut is easy to detect on a cold car, because the thick washer underneath the nut can be turned with the tip of a finger. But why do they come loose? Here's the good bit - the spare parts microfiche (and the ETKA system now used by dealers) now lists a different set of exhaust manifold fasteners from that used in production. The stud (N 900 717 02), washer (N 900 955 01) and nut (N 902 002 01 - watch you don't get palmed off with inferior generic brass nuts) are the same - but a speednut (N 012 608 1) has been added to lock the primary nut in place. If you do have the misfortune to have to replace a 10V manifold, specify that the fasteners, engine mount and heatshield should also be replaced (about GBP110) and that speednuts should be added - at 40 pence each they're cheap insurance. Exhaust manifold studs should always be replaced - they're only 70 pence each and a major source of problems when reused. And if your manifold isn't cracked, make sure you have the right engine mount checked at the next service - it's about three hours' labour to renew it. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com Mon Oct 2 15:37:47 2000 From: Steven.Buchholz at kla-tencor.com (Buchholz, Steven) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 4kSQ window R&R Message-ID: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD105AFE335@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com> Well, I'll finally be getting to the replacement of the window on the rear door driver's side on the '85 4kSQ. The thing that isn't clear to me is how one installs the window ... does it require removal of the guides in the door beforehand? I know how to get the metal base off the window actuator, but actually installing one that has a piece of intact glass attached is something I have yet to do. Unlike the type 44, the door is all one piece and there doesn't appear to be a hole in the door panel large enough to slide the glass through ... TIA for any advice on this project! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From peter at madriver.com Mon Oct 2 18:40:46 2000 From: peter at madriver.com (Peter McConnel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: proper hydraulic flush method 5kcstq Message-ID: hello all, would some kind person out there please advise on the proper hydraulic fluid flushing method for the 5kcstq. i need to try all possible fixes before replacing the pump.... thanks, Peter McConnel '87 5kcstq 192k -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/c0d128a8/attachment.htm From magliocc at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 2 15:42:49 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: troubleshooting EGR (V6, '93 100) Message-ID: <20001002214249.1777.qmail@web2906.mail.yahoo.com> Since all the signs point to EGR, I thought that I would take a stab at looking around there. the valve itself does something when I use a mity-vac pump on it. It is normally relaxed when at idle->suction to the EGR valve makes the engine cough and stumble quite nicely (until the ECU starts taking over). Similar results at 2000 RPM (parked) or idle. Don't seem to get much action, though from the vacuum feed going to it. Maybe the gage flutters 2-5 inches of vacuum, but that's it-nothing steady at all. The rubber/plastic line from the solenoid seems OK, as I can manipulate the solenoid (by the MAP unit)using the existing hose. what I don't seem to understand is the four vacuum lines going to this contraption, and the small one way valve also attached to it. I thought the variable duty cycle of the solenoid was to regulate the vacuum throughput. Maybe I'll just hook +12 power up to it straight and see if I can get normal engine vacuum at the EGR valve. Elliott Potter suggested I go through the vacuum lines as PM on the car due to aging. He's right, as the brading covers a lot of sins! __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 18:43:18 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: CT Foliage Cruise 10/15 References: Message-ID: <39D90176.7563F018@mestek.com> Is anyone here going to this? It's finally something close to my home. -Theron Scott Sierakowski wrote: > There is a CT car club outside Hartford called Wasserwerks. They (we) are > having a foliage drive on 15th of October. > You can find out more info at: http://www.wasserwerks.com/ The drive will > be going into western CT and having a > picnic in the afternoon. > > -scott > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca Mon Oct 2 16:04:02 2000 From: ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca (T T T) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: The dealer said . . . Message-ID: Mike Arman says: >There is a special circle in Hell reserved for car dealers, with an even >more uncomfortable area set aside for USED car dealers. The manager >(warden?) of this circle has been quoted as "loving the smell of napalm in >the morning." And their punishment is a whip (or a dip in hot used engine oil, Pentosin for Audi dealers) for every time they mentioned the word "only" From bradw at pobox.com Mon Oct 2 17:05:32 2000 From: bradw at pobox.com (Brad Wilson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Chipping 2.7t at high altitude Message-ID: <9330891980.20001002160532@pobox.com> I've heard mention of some 2000 S4s (perhaps some A6s) that had chips installed, and then the turbos overspooled and blew up (specifically a problem here in Denver, given that we're at higher altitude than most). Anybody happen to know whose chips those things were running? There has been some recommendation for people with chips for the 2.7ts, and being at high altitude (my house is 6500, and I regularly go up into the mountains), I wouldn't be willing to risk a non-warranteed death of my turbos. Any suggestions (including "don't do it!!!")? :) Best regards, Brad 2000 A6 2.7 biturbo quattro http://www.quality.nu/bradw/audi/ From VWAudiPorscheNut at aol.com Mon Oct 2 19:15:06 2000 From: VWAudiPorscheNut at aol.com (VWAudiPorscheNut@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: THanks for O2 sensor help. Message-ID: <49.18c87ed.270a62ea@aol.com> Thanks all! I went and picked up a Bosch generic 3 wire at autozone, Part number 13913, $37.00. Peace. Jay 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh 44mm carbs, 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a truck....) From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Tue Oct 3 01:34:15 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1/8NPT fittin to metric adapter? In-Reply-To: <001d01c02c9e$2a250ce0$f855a218@austin.rr.com> Message-ID: Any shop that works with custom brakes will probably be able to help you with that, I guess that you need a 10MMX1. One of the fine thread M10 versions. This is used on the brakes as well on our cars. -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Rob Andrews Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 8:26 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: 1/8NPT fittin to metric adapter? I'm installing an oil pressure gauge on the A4 and I cant' seem to source a 1/8NPT fitting to 10mm fitting. Anyone have a good source for one of these? Later! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rob Andrews - Dell Home Sales Division 1800-879-3355 ext 47218 Rob_Andrews@Dell.com randrews@austin.rr.com ICQ # 4385114 99 A4 2.8QS... http://home.austin.rr.com/robsquattro From smitty at pcrealm.net Mon Oct 2 19:32:55 2000 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1/8NPT fittin to metric adapter? References: <001d01c02c9e$2a250ce0$f855a218@austin.rr.com> Message-ID: <39D90D17.A595DABB@pcrealm.net> Autometer as well as VDO sell adapters. If you use a VDO gauge and sender the sender will be 10mm. I am guessing that that is the block tapping. Smitty From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Tue Oct 3 12:03:20 2000 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: radio In-Reply-To: <200010021609.MAA24606@audifans.com> Message-ID: <001101c02cc0$008541d0$cb164290@DAVE> ahh, the old m-b fintail, departed this last year, was a fine piece of automotive sculpture, and a pig of a car. but the becker radio? the original am-only? a pearl. also agree about blaupunkt. my theory is that its a snob thing. people figure that if you can pronounce it, then it must be good. they're wrong of course. ripped out the bluedotty thing from the ur, and installed a becker in it's place. now just have to add the mdf parcel shelf... dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- To: , From: Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 16:25:02+0000 Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk The radio originally envisaged for the ur-quattro had seventy memories that were guaranteed to retain programmed frequencies for ten years using EEPROMS. Unfortunately Audi decided that Blaupunkt had a better reputation in overseas markets than Philips - just as Daimler-Benz has had to drop the superb Becker range in many export markets because the brand is virtually unknown. From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Tue Oct 3 12:26:50 2000 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: f1 in the rain In-Reply-To: <200010022035.QAA02129@audifans.com> Message-ID: <001201c02cc0$01e63160$cb164290@DAVE> unless you're david coulthard - worrying about being seen by cars when about to be lapped in the heaviest of rain, in the ardennes. if you're mr coulthard, you easily capable of finding following traffic using the simple (how often this adjective perfectly describes the actions of the aforesaid f1 driver) expedient of locating the following driver by aiming for the pointy bit of the car about to lap you, and waiting for contact.... this does require some skill - don't try it a home folks.... dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 21:56:38 +0200 From: Per Lindgren To: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk Subject: Re: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk wrote: > >> Formula One cars don't have brake lights. > > > Then why would F1 cars have RAIN LIGHTS mounted on the base of the wing? > > Erm - because they don't have brake lights? If they're not present, > there's no possibility of them being masked by a rear light. And it's > not just a 'rain' light - it's also used in fog. Agreed, not many F1 > races take place in fog these days, but it used to be common on the > old Nuerburgring. The F1 cars make their own fog! They have no fenders etc so they blow up a lot of "steam" and spray with their wide wheels, thus being almost impossible to locate for the drivers behind. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Oct 3 00:49:04 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: The dealer said . . . Message-ID: > Mike Arman says: >>There is a special circle in Hell reserved for car dealers, with an even >>more uncomfortable area set aside for USED car dealers. The manager >>(warden?) of this circle has been quoted as "loving the smell of napalm in >>the morning." > And their punishment is a whip (or a dip in hot used engine oil, Pentosin > for Audi dealers) for every time they mentioned the word "only" Dealers or not, there should be a bathtub of used rear differential oil (and they have to DRINK it) for anyone selling a car who says anything like: "It's never been raced or rallied." "Never been damaged." "They all smoke/rattle/use oil/scrub tyres/whine at the back." "The mileage is genuine - I can guarantee it." If this project is realised, I will personally round up enough ur-quattros to drain out a bathful. We can collect it after use and re-use it - they won't notice the difference. My personal experience, as an inspector of cars on behalf of club members, is that ordinary dealers are just incompetent. The tricks and stunts are pulled by the specialist dealers - but the real criminals are usually private sellers or people dealing in just a few cars a year. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Tue Oct 3 02:04:03 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! In-Reply-To: <49.18c87ed.270a62ea@aol.com> Message-ID: > 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh > 44mm carbs, > 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) > 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) > 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a truck....) Jay, if you really _need_ a VAG pickup you could get a Toyota hilux and slap some VW Taro stickers on it. Instant VW pickup truck! If VW can do it this way why can't you? ;) Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden From Gary.Kaklikian at compaq.com Mon Oct 2 19:11:24 2000 From: Gary.Kaklikian at compaq.com (Kaklikian, Gary) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: FS:Snow tires/wheels Message-ID: <202F03744BDCD31194270000F803CA9E7C53BD@cxoexc2.cxo.dec.com> I still have a set of snow tires/wheels for sale: 5000TQ aero alloy wheels 15x6, 5x112 with Yokohama Guardex 205/60-15 used very briefly on my (ex-)5000, tires have <500 miles and about 95% tread excellent snow tire, decent dry pavement tire wheels are in good condition -- will fit 5000,200,V8,S4 , etc asking $300 located in Colorado Gary Kaklikian 86 4ktq 92 S4 From Kwattro at aol.com Mon Oct 2 20:49:35 2000 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: bmw's plans for 2001 Message-ID: <30.aeadd80.270a790f@aol.com> In a message dated 00-10-02 17:00:18 EDT, you write: << whether the 2000 r8 will be enough against the new (petit le mans) panoz and the new caddy - time will tell. >> There are supposedly a few new teams going at it, too. Saleen is building a prototype-looking car which will supposedly compete in Le Mans. Oreca is switching to Viper V-10 powered LMP cars, and there have been ongoing rumors that Bentley will make it back to Le Mans (having a 1926/1929 3/4.5 open tourer in the family makes this important). The new Panoz looks preetttyyy mean, too... Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From randrews at austin.rr.com Mon Oct 2 20:28:11 2000 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 1/8NPT fittin to metric adapter? References: Message-ID: <020601c02cd0$d0054580$f855a218@austin.rr.com> > Any shop that works with custom brakes will probably be able to help you > with that, I guess that you need a 10MMX1. One of the fine thread M10 > versions. This is used on the brakes as well on our cars. > I believe the pitch is 1...could be 1.5 I have not measured yet. It is standard block thread though I believe. From StevieK1 at aol.com Mon Oct 2 21:34:31 2000 From: StevieK1 at aol.com (StevieK1@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: 2.7TT Lister Opinions Message-ID: My brother-in-law is looking at leasing the 2000 A6 2.7TT. I wondered if any owners out there have any comments about it, including what to look for at the dealer before you buy, lease lingo, BTDT's, etc. I understand the car is sickeningly awesome to drive!! Thanks, Steve K. 1990 V8Q 1990 100 1997 Chevy Suburban Rockville, MD From Steadi at swbell.net Mon Oct 2 20:39:16 2000 From: Steadi at swbell.net (Eric Fletcher S.O.C.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > And it's not just a 'rain' light - it's also used in fog. And it's used to signal when the car is on the pit lane limiter so that anyone using it for start line cheating on launch. Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From jimknopf at bigfoot.com Tue Oct 3 04:14:47 2000 From: jimknopf at bigfoot.com (Jens) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: bmw's plans for 2001 References: <200010030032.UAA07390@audifans.com> Message-ID: <39D94117.BD1901BF@bigfoot.com> Hi there! > news that bmw is pulling out of the dtm and alms series next year. You call that news? Here it is a known fact that BMW lets die the ALMS (hey, no serious development this year, not driven by an official factory team im LeMans...). The DTM is somewhat another story. BMW is currently not participating in it. Gerhard Berger has to decide, but chances are high, that they will skip further development of their DTM Coupe. Stupid. BMW has a long tradition in touring cars and the DTM cars really are relatively cheap. (a lot bang for the buck) > for the alms, they will run an m3 apparently, but > not the prototype. Oh, you mean in the small category? That is interesting, most we see here is the larger cars. I knew there was an M3 racing (with Hans-Joachim Stuck?). But I did not know that BMW thought of changing anything there. So they will race the old M3 again? > where that leaves dtm is open to question. with audi stating that > they will > not run a factory effort until the a4 coupe is available, if ever, > this > leaves abt and m-b alone in the dtm. Well, there is the company called Opel. AFAIK they will be back next year again. This year, they had some bad luck but were otherwise very competitive, in contrast to the Abt TT-Rs. :( Let's hope for next year. CU Jens From matt_20v at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 19:29:14 2000 From: matt_20v at yahoo.com (Matt twentyV) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: ALMS at Laguna Seca / Problems with the "Bay Area" list Message-ID: <20001003012914.28123.qmail@web5305.mail.yahoo.com> At the Sears Point ALMS in July, there was a small corral of Audis. I don't know who set it up or how one gained entrance. I didn't know any of the people parked there, but I gotta suspect it was organized by QCUSA... or perhaps Audi NA, as their hospitality tent was very nearby (I didn't have an invitation to that, either). The crowd at SP was mellow and relatively small. I would suspect the same for Laguna Seca. So besides making it possible to get very close to the race cars in the paddock and on the track, it should be possible to get some corral parking space. I hope that if this happens it will be publicized. ===== Matt Rooke '91cq- modified, still slow '00S4- stock, very fast __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From magliocc at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 2 19:51:46 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: egr checking Message-ID: <20001003015146.14382.qmail@web2906.mail.yahoo.com> Have changed most of the rubber lines, checked the EGR valve for some level of operation, etc. Drove around tonight, pulling off the modulated vacuum line to the EGR valve. After some driving, got a 2411 blinky light code (EGR trouble)...once on the light latched on until I replaced the hose onto the valve assembly. Tried the same thing with the plug to the EGR frequency modulating solenoid. The software caught that one immediately, same trouble code. Any advice??? Really gotta get to the bottom of this. Hopefully an IR thermometer will make itself available tomorrow. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From DRGABE at aol.com Mon Oct 2 23:04:59 2000 From: DRGABE at aol.com (DRGABE@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:11 2003 Subject: audi 100cs 1992 bose system door speaker Message-ID: <9f.b6b4ccd.270a98cb@aol.com> Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me with my stereo system, it seems the amp in the driver door is out and I want to send it to the shop. I just can't figure how to get to the speaker, when i tried removing the door cover, found 2 screws, that I took out, but still could not detach panel i have already rebuilt the amp in the trunk drgabe@aol.com audi 100cs 1992 From niederst at telerama.com Mon Oct 2 23:11:27 2000 From: niederst at telerama.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor Message-ID: <001701c02cdf$3f6533a0$6804c9cd@acer> With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. It currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 wire sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've looked in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this sensor will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg according to the trip computer). TIA. Craig '92 100S (90k) '86 CGT (191k) From munrof at isys.ca Mon Oct 2 23:17:30 2000 From: munrof at isys.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: V8 Engine Problem References: Message-ID: <01e301c02ce0$481c8920$3751dfd8@munrof> > If the chip has caused any detonation, you could have broken rings/ring lands etc. > When I pulled the 400 out of my '69 GTO for a rebuild at 120k miles, every ring in the engine was broken. I suspect over-revving by the PO given the low gearing and high HP. And...you could still see the factory cross-hatching the full length of the cylinders. High oil usage prompted the rebuild. Fred Munro '94 S4 112k km From kentmclean at mindspring.com Mon Oct 2 23:19:00 2000 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Avant Ouch! inside view URL Message-ID: <03c901c02ce0$4b4dcbe0$1c0df7a5@silknet.com> Loops, me bad. The correct URL for the inside view: http://www.srsvw.com/gifs/38.gif Kent McLean, who can cut and paste, but not twice in a row From munrof at isys.ca Mon Oct 2 23:28:19 2000 From: munrof at isys.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: smog rack redux ('93 v6-12v) References: <20001002165859.26940.qmail@web2903.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01e901c02ce1$986e40c0$3751dfd8@munrof> Hi William; NOx is generated at high combustion temperatures and the output peaks as the mixture leans out past the stoichiometric ratio of 14.7:1. Judging from your tests, you could afford to richen up the mixture slightly to drop the NOx since you have room in CO and HC. I'd look for an air leak which is causing the car to run lean. The cat does reduce NOx, CO, & HC, but if you have vacuum leaks you may not need new cats. Good luck! Fred Munro '94 S4 112k km ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Magliocco" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 12:58 PM Subject: smog rack redux ('93 v6-12v) > I'm singing the "4444" blues. The car is still sick > but the ECU is singing a different tune. > > Score thus far: Smog Rack 2, Bill 0. > > 1) Test results, 1st visit (9/26) & second visit > (10/2) , limit > > HC-ppm: 98, 95, limit 117 PASS BOTH > CO-%: 0.29, 0.24, limit 0.65 PASS BOTH > NO-ppm: 1171, 0946, limit 0821 FAIL BOTH > CO+CO2%: 14.2, 14.6, min 6.0% PASS BOTH > > Same machine did the tests. > > Over the weekend: > > two new o2 sensors, 6 new Bosch Platinum +4 plugs and > replaced a cracked vacuum line coming off the intake > manifold > > Decided to visit Mr. Midas. Believe or not, the > manager did not try to sell me cats! His generics > won't fit. He also felt that the engine could be > massaged by the local smog guru tech for less than the > cats. Doesn't think the cats are bad. > > Smog guru didn't want to discuss much with me after > looking at the test reports. Wants me to drop it off > and pay the $75 etc. > > What confuses me is that both of these "MLs" seem to > think timing is an issue. OK, I have distributorless > ignition so they can't rotate something that's not > there. This engine is so highly controlled that I > wonder just how much CAN be adjusted. After all, > there is no CO control and the Federal/CA label > indicates there are no adjustments. > > Paying someone $75 to tell me the cats are bad seems a > waste. When I made noises like that, the guy got > pissed. Says he's from Detroit and does not like > "furrin" cars anyway. > > OK, gallery, give it another shot. > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From rhouck at neo.rr.com Mon Oct 2 23:18:32 2000 From: rhouck at neo.rr.com (Rick Houck) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Quattro digest, Vol 1 #218 - 23 msgs References: <200010020420.AAA12673@audifans.com> Message-ID: <012b01c02cf9$61fca500$06ac5d18@neo.rr.com> I have four good spare 15" BBS with 4 lugs and reasonable tires on them. I'm not sure the ET, but I can check if you are interested. Rick Houck Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 9:20 PM Subject: Quattro digest, Vol 1 #218 - 23 msgs Send Quattro mailing list submissions to quattro@audifans.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to quattro-request@audifans.com You can reach the person managing the list at quattro-admin@audifans.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Quattro digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re:Slotted Rotors (Greg Johnson) 2. Re: "Footwell Splice"? addendum (Kneale Brownson) 3. RE:oil pan (Ryan Hoitink) 4. Re:Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? (Steve Jensen) 5. WTB: 6Jx15H2 ET 45 4 lug RIMS (Mark Vogt) 6. Re:foglights (larry leung) 7. Re:Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) (Mark L. Chang) 8. RE:exhaust manifold insulating (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) 9. Re:1991 200T (Brett Dikeman) 10. Audi Spottings/potential New Lister (larry leung) 11. Re:pulling the rad on type $$ (David Head) 12. AUDI 200Q Avant High Speed Run (Identiles@aol.com) 13. Re:A6 Cabin filter (Lee Levitt) 14. '90 80q no start (alan page) 15. Re:oil pan (BRIT4VWS@aol.com) 16. I stand corrected (was adaptive ECU-V6) (William Magliocco) 17. Re:'90 80q no start (Kneale Brownson) 18. Re:Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) (Kwattro@aol.com) 19. Re:A6 Cabin filter (John Naitove) 20. It's always something...(longish) (Steve Jensen) 21. will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? (JordanVw@aol.com) 22. Re:'90 80q no start (alan page) 23. Re:will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? (Craig D. Niederst) --__--__-- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 16:15:38 -0700 From: Greg Johnson To: Dave.Eaton@clear.net.nz CC: s-car-list@egroups.com, "'Quattro List'" Subject: Re: Slotted Rotors Thanks to all who replied. Its been nearly unanimous and I have my rotors mounted the correct way. What caused all this is the picture of the new Saleen on the front of Autoweek. His rotors are mounted the other direction. Greg J Dave Eaton wrote: > ditto for the ap's on my ur-q. according to their mounting instructions > that is.... > > dave > '95 rs2 > '90 ur-q > > -----Original Message----- > Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 23:20:54 -0500 > From: "Jimmy Pribble, Managing Editor, UrS4.com" > Subject: RE: Slotted Rotors > > My Zimmerman rotors slotted by Weston Motorsports (Hi Paul!) are both > slotted "back." That is, facing the rotor, the slot curves clockwise from > inside to the outside. I think this is the correct configuration, but I'm > not exactly sure why. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle > that the slot cuts across the pad. --__--__-- Message: 2 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 19:20:48 -0400 To: "Steve Jensen" , "Quattro List" From: Kneale Brownson Subject: Re: "Footwell Splice"? addendum --=======67CB6F75======= Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-6F4A6692 At 07:05 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Kneale Brownson wrote: >Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all >Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html >When you get there, search on "alternator to battery cable splice repair" > >At 04:24 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: > >>Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der >>Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: >> >>Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, >>but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. >>Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump >>off post, vroom and off and running. >> >>Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, >>but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News >>but no joy. >> >>Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling >>the carpet back now. >> >>Please help! >> >>-Steve Jensen >>87 5kcstq >>87 5kcstqw >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >>please visit the web interface at >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro --=======67CB6F75=======-- --__--__-- Message: 3 From: "Ryan Hoitink" To: "Ron Wainwright" , Subject: RE: oil pan Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:25:33 -0500 charset="iso-8859-1" As a very temporary solution, I have seen expandable replacement plugs. As you tighten them, a piece of rubber expands to seal the opening. Again, this would be a pretty sketchy set-up, but it will make the car usable, and at least hold oil in the engine. I think that these can be found at most national chain-type auto parts stores. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Ron Wainwright Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 5:59 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: oil pan Hello list, I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the drain plug, went to change the oil today and found that the threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit there with no oil in it? As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I would be interested in it. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro --__--__-- Message: 4 From: "Steve Jensen" To: "Kneale Brownson" , "Quattro List" Cc: "Chris Miller" Subject: Re: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 19:16:56 -0400 charset="iso-8859-1" Earlier, Kneale said: > Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all > Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is what I was looking for but I couldn't remember where it was. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq 87 5kcstqw --__--__-- Message: 5 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 19:44:58 -0400 Subject: WTB: 6Jx15H2 ET 45 4 lug RIMS From: "Mark Vogt" To: quattro@audifans.com Friends, I'm looking for (4) 15" 4lug ET45 RIMS for my (hopefully running soon) 5000s Avant. I'm redoing auto-wagon for wife/family car, so nothing fancy or too costly. The 14's on there now are beat to s--t and probably bent from Boston curbs. I think this size was used on 100's. TIA Mark Vogt, Exeter, NH '90 80 '89 200tqa '87 5000sa (in intensive care) --__--__-- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 19:53:52 -0400 (EDT) From: larry leung To: =?iso-8859-1?q?mike?= , quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk, quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: foglights Was your car bought new? If not, then this was a P.O. mod. Not one of the better ones, IMHO. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: =?iso-8859-1?q?mike?= To: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk, quattro@audifans.com Sent: October 1, 2000 11:58:53 AM GMT Subject: Re: foglights >> err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights >> '93 V6 80 quattro >Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. just been to check..both light up. But, on closer inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run out of proper car wire. mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro --__--__-- Message: 7 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 16:55:53 -0700 (PDT) From: "Mark L. Chang" To: Bob cc: GMBCHEF@aol.com, quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) On Sun, 1 Oct 2000, Bob wrote: > Sounds like an 84 with later bumpers. Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- Q: How many surrealists does it take to change a light bulb? A: Two, one to hold the giraffe, and the other to fill the bathtub with brightly colored machine tools. --__--__-- Message: 8 From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= To: "Alan Pritchard" , "audi list" Subject: RE: exhaust manifold insulating Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 02:17:55 +0200 charset="iso-8859-1" There are no high temp paint that will cope with the temps of a turbo exhaust manifold. I dont think that exhaust wrap is good on our cars either. I know people that has had more problems with cracking manifolds with the exhaust wrapping... No experience with audis though... J?rgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden --__--__-- Message: 9 <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:10:20 -0400 To: "Jim Haseltine" , , , From: Brett Dikeman Subject: Re: 1991 200T At 10:08 PM +0100 10/1/00, Jim Haseltine wrote: >In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo >last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... At least on the 960, it's very hard to "accidentally" leave it on. The rear fog light, when on, also lights a -very- bright orange light in the instrument cluster. it's all in the instrumentation. I think that there would be far less confusion if the diagram was a car, with lines out the back...not just "lines straight out of a reflector"(which is almost -exactly- like the "fog light" symbol(which is lines out of reflector, pointing down.) The diagram is clearly not effective enough...but it's probably some ISO standard, that nobody can touch or question... Brett -- ---- Brett Dikeman Systems Engineer CFN(formerly iClick, Inc) 914-872-8043 120 Bloomingdale Rd. 914-872-8100(fax) White Plains, NY 10605 http://www.iclick.com PGP Fingerprint: 06C2 5D5B D2B4 7626 BB24 2BBC 9E4A C8B3 PGP Key location: http://pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net/pgp/brett.pgp --__--__-- Message: 10 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:14:28 -0400 (EDT) From: larry leung To: Quattro List Subject: Audi Spottings/potential New Lister First the spotting: 5:15 PM. Sunday, 10/1. Heading north on NY Rt 9 south of Fishkill, NY, BEAUTIFUL '90 Coupe Quattro in silver, OEM 5 spoke 3 - pieces, I was in a Pearl 200Q with a bicycle roof rack and A4 5 spokes heading south. Lister? Potential New Lister - Guy approached me while I was in the Staples Parking lot in Kingston, NY. Complimented my 200Q and wanted to know of my opinions of Audi's in general :) and what I thought of a '97 A4 2.8Q, especially in terms of maintenance (he had a Saab in the past). I figured if he was used to Saab maintenance, then he'd be more than happy with the A4, which, possibly due to newness just doesn't seem as "maintenance intensive" as the type $$, especially the turbos. He's hooked on the longevity of the cars (and was somewhat shocked at the milage on mine (158K) and on the 4KQ I sold (188K, now the friend whom has it is at 240K), their build, and styling, etc. I think we've another lister (and thanks to my Q-list decals, it was easy for me to give him the web site. Contact Bob Myers, c/o this list....) LL - NY --__--__-- Message: 11 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 20:25:20 -0400 From: David Head CC: critchie1@hotmail.com, quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: pulling the rad on type $$ If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator that lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you really expect to have the car another 10 years? William Magliocco wrote: > 4) Get the Modine radiator. Don't put the same > problem back into your car. --__--__-- Message: 12 From: Identiles@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 20:29:51 EDT Subject: AUDI 200Q Avant High Speed Run To: quattro@audifans.com Last night, a Pearl black Audi 200 Quatttro Avant made it from Atlantic city NJ to Staten Island NY in one hour. It also stopped for gasoline. This wagon was hauling. The bright xenon wanna be lights lite up the Garden State Parkway quite well. It also got the attention of left lancer's to move very quickly out of the way at 3 am. It must have been pretty scary to have this UFO coming up on the slow people at excess of 100 mph. I just wished that both my rear fog lights worked for those who lingered in the passing lane......... TEAM AUDI !!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone in the NYC or NJ area who would like to get together with there audis e-mail me. --__--__-- Message: 13 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 17:35:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Lee Levitt To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter joe fyffe writes: John Naitove wrote: > CC: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They should > be facing toward the back. Joe > > John Naitove wrote: > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of > > the car or the back of the car? What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am assuming that your 85 is a typo...). Lee '96 A6qw _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html --__--__-- Message: 14 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 20:39:43 -0400 From: alan page Reply-To: alanpage@connix.com To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: '90 80q no start Hello, I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the engine? Anything simple I should check on? Thanks, Alan Page Sandy Hook, CT USA '94 S4 '90 80q --__--__-- Message: 15 From: BRIT4VWS@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 21:01:19 EDT Subject: Re: oil pan To: ron_01056@yahoo.com, quattro@audifans.com I fixed mine with an oversize drain plug self tapping and everything. 5 oil changes later works like a beauty and there is another oversize plug after the 1st (1 oversize and 2 oversize). You might give it a try I got mine at pep boys or Napa or checker I can't remember sense they all have them. On another note I bought a new oil pan genuine parts for 30 or around there. The gasket for the pan was more expensive than the pan it self. This was a parts warehouse that I got mine at in Colorado. Britton Ingraham 1987 4000 CS quattro 1986 Quantum GL 1973 Type 1 Sedan --__--__-- Message: 16 Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 18:27:09 -0700 (PDT) From: William Magliocco Subject: I stand corrected (was adaptive ECU-V6) To: quattro@audifans.com Forgot all about last versions of CIS ECUs, which had some of the same functionality I was talking about. Sorry, Alex! My frame of reference on CIS was the 85-86 Audi type $$, an '84 VW Quantum, '85 Golf GTI and '88 VW Fox. None of those had diagnostic ECU systems, let alone adaptive controls. Some had buzzer freq valves, some had DPR valves, and the GTI had electronically controlled variable timing and the knock sensor. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ --__--__-- Message: 17 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 22:13:25 -0400 To: alanpage@connix.com, quattro@audifans.com From: Kneale Brownson Subject: Re: '90 80q no start --=======345A7A78======= Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-65597447 Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move ahead to contact the flywheel. At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: >Hello, > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > >Thanks, >Alan Page >Sandy Hook, CT USA > >'94 S4 >'90 80q > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > --=======345A7A78=======-- --__--__-- Message: 18 From: Kwattro@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 22:18:54 EDT Subject: Re: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) To: mchang@ee.washington.edu CC: quattro@audifans.com In a message dated 00-10-01 20:00:06 EDT, you write: << Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- >> Well, a couple of things. First off, some of the 86's and most 87's had the mirrors body color. As for the trim, it would be an easy fit for any trim piece, if you think about it. Sounds like the guy or gal is in with a body shop. There are also paints that can be used on lights, giving the effect of body color - there was a Mercedes show car with titanium colored taillights not too long ago. Duane Hale's turbo 4000CSQ had no side trim, and painted stainless and rubber trim (it was in Eurocar for those who don't know.). Nothing is impossible - it's all about money. The car's actually look nice without the side trim, but somewhat void since the black stripe matches up. However, the character line from the 84 is still present, just covered up by the trim. Grill sounds custom, of course. Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com --__--__-- Message: 19 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 22:27:16 -0400 From: John Naitove To: Lee Levitt CC: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter It's a 95 and the manual recommended replacing it. John Lee Levitt wrote: > joe fyffe writes: > > John Naitove wrote: > > > CC: quattro@audifans.com > > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They > should > > be facing toward the back. Joe > > > > John Naitove wrote: > > > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about > dealers/dealer > > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front > of > > > the car or the back of the car? > > What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am > assuming that your 85 is a typo...). > > Lee > '96 A6qw > > _______________________________________________________ > Say Bye to Slow Internet! > http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro --__--__-- Message: 20 From: "Steve Jensen" To: "Quattro List" Subject: It's always something...(longish) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 23:19:19 -0400 charset="iso-8859-1" Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. Oh well, I'll be a minivan pilot for a few days. S'okay, it's an Audi, its always something but it can be fixed... After Dave Head's spot on review of Road Atlanta, I wanted to chime in with my .02 cents. First of all, it was a heckuva lot of fun: I finally got to meet some of the folks from the List whose posts have given me great enjoyment and/or saved me money. After being invited into a motorhome Elliott Potter and I had been admiring, I met Unka Bart, Bob Myers, and Dave Head (whose idea of buying a 5 spd. 4.2L V-8 in Germany, ripping out all the required guts and computers and shipping it back to the US didn't sound half bad). Audi cameraderie was the plan of the day, and Bob Myers said it best when he mentioned the sense of community and friendliness one gets from reading posts (sometimes for years) before finally meeting someone from the List in person. It was a pleasure meeting all three of you. Kudos should also go out to Tom Saltino, who arranged the Audi Corral - 4Ks, 5Ks, S cars (more S cars in one place than I've ever seen), quattros and front drivers. And the neat thing was that everyone left their ego back at the house, I think everyone had a ball (except for that errant deer that wandered out onto the track, she'll probably have nightmares for weeks about racing cars dodging her). I have walked thru the Porsche and Ferrari corrals at other races and the attitude was sometimes so thick you'd need hip waders. Refreshing to walk amongst the various Audi types and see no barriers. In the rest of the infield, the "you don't see that everyday" award goes to the guy with the gas turbine powered pick up truck, followed closely by a guy on a gas turbine powered motorcycle!!! What a hoot! And after the Audis won, who else but Unka Bart would whip out a bottle of champagne to celebrate? Bart, you are truly a class act. The bottom line is this - both my Audis are broken, one with a bum clutch and the other that won't start without a jump - but so what? If I wanted an appliance, I'd put an engine and wheels on my wifes Kelvinator washing machine, life is too short to own boring cars. I have a Bentley, and I have the good List people who don't mind spreading information to help others keep their older and not-so-older Audis running. This is a good place to be. Oh, and the guy driving the Audi 90 that helped jump off my TQW and get me back on the road? Turns out he's got 4 Audis of various types (the 90, a V8, a 5K and the other I forget), but he'd never heard of the List. That has since been rectified. Please give Tom Badger a warm welcome when he posts. Sorry for the long post/rant but I wanted to share. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq (awaiting clutch transplant) 87 5kcstqw (awaiting splice surgery, but now sporting Audifans stickers) --__--__-- Message: 21 From: JordanVw@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 23:33:38 EDT Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? To: quattro@audifans.com title sez it all.. anyone know? chris --__--__-- Message: 22 Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 23:39:35 -0400 From: alan page Reply-To: alanpage@connix.com To: Kneale Brownson CC: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: '90 80q no start Kneale, That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and lube the starter? Thanks, Alan Kneale Brownson wrote: > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > >Hello, > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > >Thanks, > >Alan Page > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > >'94 S4 > >'90 80q > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > --__--__-- Message: 23 From: "Craig D. Niederst" To: Cc: "Quattro List" Subject: Re: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:18:23 -0400 charset="iso-8859-1" The stock 100 wheels are either 15x6 (non-quattro) or 15x7 (quattro), 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset. I have had the stock 15x6, A4/A6 15x7 and A4/A6 16x7 (all 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset) on my '92 100 with no problems. If the Fuchs have this offset and bolt pattern (if I remember correctly they do), they will fit. HTH. Craig '92 100S (90k) '86 CGT (191k) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 11:33 PM Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? > title sez it all.. anyone know? > chris > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro --__--__-- _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro End of Quattro Digest_______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From donohue at netconnx.net Mon Oct 2 23:11:17 2000 From: donohue at netconnx.net (Thomas J. Donohue, Jr.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Avant center taillight section References: <20001002073758.24615.qmail@web215.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39D94045.73F3F476@netconnx.net> Hi all...still looking for a center taillight section for my 91 TQA. I believe any turbo wagon section will do, but the sedan versions I know will not. If anyone needs a sedan section, I have one available. Thanks. Tom Donohue From jwrich4 at compuserve.com Tue Oct 3 05:18:21 2000 From: jwrich4 at compuserve.com (John Rich) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Looking for Audi Contacts Message-ID: <000001c02ce1$bf9ee820$0544d3d4@TheRichs> If there is a subscriber to this list living in Raum 6, please contact me offline. I am looking for a competent shop to do some "tuning". Danke, John From kzildjian at home.com Mon Oct 2 23:26:21 2000 From: kzildjian at home.com (kzildjian@home.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Dead Cat/Exhaust - Need Help Message-ID: <39D943CD.4290B12A@home.com> Hello All, Turns out the cat on my 1990 Coupe Quattro (A014304 VIN) is dead. As a matter of fact, it has nothing inside! I went through inspection and failed. I replaced the O2 sensor, and brought the COs do a little bit, but not enough. I want to replace the entire exhaust with a performance exhaust and a new cat. Can someone suggest some exhausts. Thank You. -- Tim Meritzis TCM Productions 1990 Audi CQ 20V 1984 Subaru Brat D/L (732) 241-2931 From fast928 at prodigy.net Mon Oct 2 22:32:28 2000 From: fast928 at prodigy.net (Andrew Lundy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 References: Message-ID: <002d01c02ce2$35293d20$9ecffcd1@andrewlu> Hey Ryan, I looked at that site but I didn't see anything for the 12v!!! Is it possible that they dropped the chip?? --- Andrew Lundy fast928@prodigy.net 90 80Q 91 90 95 90Q ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Hoitink" To: "Justin Wamboldt" ; Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:46 PM Subject: RE: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > Wetterauer is the only one I know of.(www.chip-tuning.com) In addition, > they only make chips for certain ECU numbers. Be prepared to pay aroung > 500-600 dollars for about 12 HP. Not worth it in my book. That's why > nobody makes them. The 12v engine is not extremely tunable, without great > investment. > > -Ryan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > Behalf Of Justin Wamboldt > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM > To: 'quattro@audifans.com' > Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites > I've found only offered chips for the 30v > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From l.leung at juno.com Mon Oct 2 23:40:24 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: proper hydraulic flush method 5kcstq Message-ID: <387313872.970540825577.JavaMail.root@web395-wra.mail.com> Pour it in. It'll leak out..... ;-) LL - NY 200Q Pentosin Filter, hydraulic system work needed.... ------Original Message------ From: Peter McConnel To: Audi Quattro List Sent: October 2, 2000 9:40:46 PM GMT Subject: proper hydraulic flush method 5kcstq hello all, would some kind person out there please advise on the proper hydraulic fluid flushing method for the 5kcstq. i need to try all possible fixes before replacing the pump.... thanks, Peter McConnel '87 5kcstq 192k From B070410 at aol.com Mon Oct 2 23:47:27 2000 From: B070410 at aol.com (B070410@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: blowing hot air/86 5kcst Message-ID: <49.1914257.270aa2bf@aol.com> well, after checking the the bowden cable, which doesn't move at all when I cycle the hi/low on ac, though the fan does what it should do, the cable doesn't budge. I can hear the clicking when I press the different functions on climate control. Yesterday I actually got cold air blowing and today also, though I have done nothing other than move wires and hoses and still have the whole area opened and exposed. The ac seems to cycle off on it's own while driving then I have to play around with the buttons for it to come back on. Could this be the climate control head itself that's causing the problem? or ac programmer since cable doesn't move? Anybody got spares? I could pay reasonable price or possibly trade for other parts. Anyway, I'm trying to prioritize my next few steps with this car, I've got it running really well, I've spent lots of time and money getting it to this level (nothing fancy, just a good reliable daily driver, so far) thank goodness the car only cost $300 or I'm sure I wouldn't have kept it. It is in need of some window work, (presently unplugged) non functioning radio, intermittent ac problem, and an outer cv joint replacement. Also have to deal with a shop that replaced my front rotors and brakes, the rotors were warped at 6 weeks and less than 2500 miles on them. They've already replaced the pads and brake mechanism and turned the rotors. Brakes still don't feel good. Thanks for all your help! Linda 86 5kcst 177k From l.leung at juno.com Mon Oct 2 23:48:34 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <391563625.970541314950.JavaMail.root@web340-wra.mail.com> If looking for Z or V-rated. Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 - 3 season tire (not M+S rated), Dunlop 8000 performance with a quieter, smoother ride and a 300 Treadwear rating. Avail through TireRack at a whopping $72/tire! If you go H-rated, and (sort-of) all season, I'd agree with the Dunlop D60M2 JLB. Note the all season part is weak, as I'd have to say from personnal experience, the snow performance is rather marginal. About the same price as the Kumho. If looking for Z all-season performance with supposedly little compromises (according to Grassroots Motorsports when equipping a set of E-12 and E-28 5-series Bimmers) the Michelin Pilot XGT V or Z 4. Expect to pay over $120/tire. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: Douglas Frank To: quattro list Sent: October 2, 2000 8:17:18 PM GMT Subject: tire thread (yet again) Hello all, The Dunlop 8000e's that came on my A4 are nearing end of life. Any recommendations on what to replace them with are very welcome. I'm perfectly happy with the OEM tires, which may tell you something about how I drive (i.e., like your grandpa), but who knows... the Yokohama A520's look interesting... considerably less $ than the Dunlops.... BTW car has the sport suspension-- 205x55 R16. thanks! (I searched the archives... 7336 hits on 'a4 tire'... oh sure! :-) -- Douglas Frank Compaq Computer Corp. Larceny, n. A sturdy fiber ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. of which the human heart is 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 more or less composed. _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Mon Oct 2 22:52:56 2000 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 In-Reply-To: <002d01c02ce2$35293d20$9ecffcd1@andrewlu> Message-ID: Send them an email message. Tell them that you heard they offer a chip for the 2.8 12v Audi v6. Ask them to tell you what Bosch ecu #'s they offer a chip for. They will get back to you within a couple days. Compare it to the one you have in your car. I just inquired about it about 2 weeks ago. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Lundy [mailto:fast928@prodigy.net] Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:32 PM To: Ryan Hoitink; Justin Wamboldt; quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: chip for 12v A4 2.8 Hey Ryan, I looked at that site but I didn't see anything for the 12v!!! Is it possible that they dropped the chip?? --- Andrew Lundy fast928@prodigy.net 90 80Q 91 90 95 90Q ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan Hoitink" To: "Justin Wamboldt" ; Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:46 PM Subject: RE: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > Wetterauer is the only one I know of.(www.chip-tuning.com) In addition, > they only make chips for certain ECU numbers. Be prepared to pay aroung > 500-600 dollars for about 12 HP. Not worth it in my book. That's why > nobody makes them. The 12v engine is not extremely tunable, without great > investment. > > -Ryan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > Behalf Of Justin Wamboldt > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM > To: 'quattro@audifans.com' > Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites > I've found only offered chips for the 30v > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From l.leung at juno.com Mon Oct 2 23:59:47 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors Message-ID: <387648348.970541988135.JavaMail.root@web340-wra.mail.com> Coriolis force is the apparent deflection of the direction of motion or path of a moving object as it moves perpendicular to the axis of any rotating body, not just Earth (which was the first body where it was noted, by artillery engineer Coriolis). The greater the rate of rotation, the greater the apparent deflection. It would simply (in the case of water leaving a rotating brake disk) plot the path of the water in relation to the disk as the wheel rotates. Since there is actually no centrifugal force "throwing" water off of the disk either, neither percieved force (both the coriolis EFFECT and centrifugal force are percieved, not actual forces) they have little to do with how well water would be retained or "thrown" from a rotating brake disk. However, it would probably be better to have the trailing edge of rotor slots point towards the rear at the top of the disk, when looking at the disk from outside the car, so that the inertia of any water in the slots would not tend to trap the vater within the slot. - the Physics Teacher - ------Original Message------ From: Michael Shields To: KBATTPO Sent: October 2, 2000 6:40:49 PM GMT Subject: Re: Slotted Rotors In article <39D61449.3977A772@s-cars.org>, KBATTPO wrote: > Outside. You do not want to force the water inwards by the Coriolice > force of the cut grooves so that it fights the Centrifugical force > caused by the water-to-rotor friction. The Coriolis force is the apparent torque placed on objects by the earth's rotation. It is not a major factor in brake cooling. I agree with your conclusions though. -- Shields. _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From ameer at snet.net Tue Oct 3 00:01:16 2000 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor In-Reply-To: <001701c02cdf$3f6533a0$6804c9cd@acer> Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002225547.009f3760@pop.snet.net> in '86 audi was using unheated sensors, so it's prolly correct. The extra unused connector you see is the CIS OXS duty cycle for setting the mixture and CO level. Even if you put a 3-wire in, the ECU won't do anything w/ the signal till the thermoswitch triggers. So unless you swapped ecu's too, you wouldn't benefit. The poor mileage is prolly combination of things...bad o2 sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, engine compression, vacc. leaks, etc. try replacing the cheap stuff first and inspect the whole thing carefully...good luck. -ameer At 10:11 PM 10/2/00, you wrote: >With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. It >currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 wire >sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, >there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 >CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've looked >in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this sensor >will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg >according to the trip computer). TIA. > >Craig >'92 100S (90k) >'86 CGT (191k) > > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From egav at wireless2000.com Mon Oct 2 21:17:22 2000 From: egav at wireless2000.com (Efraim) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) References: <000601c02c42$f7b2fca0$3800000a@JATER> Message-ID: <007301c02ce8$7236c240$6fc97118@crdva1.bc.wave.home.com> Mine broke off about 5-6 months ago. I placed and tightened the hose clamp on remaining part of the tube and so far it didn't move at all. Efraim '88 5KCDTQ 322K km (200K mi) , 1.8 Bar '90 90 99K km (62K mi) Vancouver, Canada ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Berrevoets" To: "'Christopher Ritchie'" ; "1 Quattro List (E-mail)" Sent: October 2, 2000 12:32 AM Subject: RE: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) > Mine broke off three months ago - quite irritating to say the least but it's > been on for at least 6000 km no problem. In fact I just did a run to new > york city and back 1780km in 27 hours (stopped in for some business). I had > forgotten it broke until I just read your post. > > Peter > 1990 200TQ > > > > >snip > > >I guess I should be grateful that the car breaks when and > > >where it does. > > >But I am getting sick of constantly working on the thing. > > > > > >All this leads to a question. Isn't there a fix for broken radiator > > >outlets? Something like epoxying a neck in the remaining > > >stub? Anybody > > >ever do this? Anybody ever ride around for any length of > > >time with the hose > > >attached only to a 1 inch neck. (I want to get the radiator > > >pressure tested > > >before I go to all the trouble of replacing it.) > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Brian at superrealty.com Tue Oct 3 00:22:20 2000 From: Brian at superrealty.com (Brian Raymond) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Bottom Engine cover 95-90 (second try) Message-ID: Well I didn't get any replies from anyone in the area (Boston) so I thougth I would try again. If anyone has or knows someone with a bottom engine cover for a 95 90 I would be interesting in purchasing it. Thanks.. Brian Raymond From rickert at engr.orst.edu Mon Oct 2 21:30:08 2000 From: rickert at engr.orst.edu (Luke Rickert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: poor idle on 4kq Message-ID: <39D952C0.3146E768@engr.orst.edu> Problem with an 87 4kq: poor initial idle I have a problem, which I suspect to be caused by a bad O2 sensor, although at this point that is just conjecture. Any guidance before I investigating further would be much appreciated. Just to see what it would do, I duct tapped up a rather large hole in a very deteriorated, what I believe is called, ?cold air inlet? a rubber ~3 inch tube that makes a 90 degree bend below the air box. Can anyone confirm that ID and even give me a part number for that hose? I haven't been able to make a positive ID with Bentley. Anyway the real problem is that now that I have closed up the leak in the hose, the car idles very poorly when initially started from cold. It starts ok and then immediately begins to oscillate between ~1400 and 300 rpm with a period of a few seconds. At the bottom of the range it sounds like it is going to die and I have to give it some gas to bring the engine speed up. After it has warmed up for a short time the oscillation goes away and everything seems OK if perhaps a little rough. Does anyone have any ideas of what to check? I don't know for sure but would not be surprised if this car were on its original O2 sensor. Thanks for the help Luke From devin at infinite1.net Mon Oct 2 21:22:34 2000 From: devin at infinite1.net (Devin Avery) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: audi 100cs 1992 bose system door speaker References: <9f.b6b4ccd.270a98cb@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D950FA.13145B7F@infinite1.net> I am pretty sure you have to remove the door panel it self. DRGABE@aol.com wrote: > Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me with my stereo system, it > seems the amp in the driver door is out and I want to send it to the shop. I > just can't figure how to get to the speaker, when i tried removing the door > cover, found 2 screws, that I took out, but still could not detach panel > i have already rebuilt the amp in the trunk > drgabe@aol.com > > audi 100cs 1992 > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From ameer at snet.net Tue Oct 3 00:37:56 2000 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: blowing hot air/86 5kcst In-Reply-To: <49.1914257.270aa2bf@aol.com> Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002232710.009eceb0@pop.snet.net> I prefer to do brakes myself. I've never been happy when a shop does my brakes. I guess most people don't have time for it, but it's really easy esp. on a 5k. I'd have the shop check the whole system, instead of just pads and rotors. It depends on what the symptoms are, but things to check are leakage at calipers, cracked/spongy hoses, old fluid, air in the system, possibly master cylinder. It all depends on what it's doing...soft pedal, high effort, vibration...etc. It's very strange that the discs got warped so quickly. Any explanation from them? That should not happen, unless something was wrong w/ the part or a bad install. I've heard if you torque the wheel nuts more than the spec 80 ft-lbs., the disc can warp, make sure they're not just using an impact wrench. That's why I like doing it myself. I will torque things to spec. I don't know of any mechanic who torques -anything. Hope this helps... -ameer At 10:47 PM 10/2/00, you wrote: > well, after checking the the bowden cable, which doesn't move at all when I >cycle the hi/low on ac, though the fan does what it should do, the cable >doesn't budge. I can hear the clicking when I press the different functions >on climate control. Yesterday I actually got cold air blowing and today >also, though I have done nothing other than move wires and hoses and still >have the whole area opened and exposed. The ac seems to cycle off on it's >own while driving then I have to play around with the buttons for it to come >back on. Could this be the climate control head itself that's causing the >problem? or ac programmer since cable doesn't move? Anybody got spares? I >could pay reasonable price or possibly trade for other parts. >Anyway, I'm trying to prioritize my next few steps with this car, I've got it >running really well, I've spent lots of time and money getting it to this >level (nothing fancy, just a good reliable daily driver, so far) thank >goodness the car only cost $300 or I'm sure I wouldn't have kept it. It is >in need of some window work, (presently unplugged) non functioning radio, >intermittent ac problem, and an outer cv joint replacement. Also have to deal >with a shop that replaced my front rotors and brakes, the rotors were warped >at 6 weeks and less than 2500 miles on them. They've already replaced the >pads and brake mechanism and turned the rotors. Brakes still don't feel >good. >Thanks for all your help! > >Linda >86 5kcst >177k >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From gregsj at iea.com Mon Oct 2 22:11:38 2000 From: gregsj at iea.com (Greg Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Re: Slotted Rotors References: Message-ID: <39D95C79.28516C2@iea.com> Yes and No. They do what you said, but they do provide a runoff gutter of sorts. When it rain, you can get a slight layer of moisture between the brake pad and the rotor which needs to go a way before the pad "grabs" completely. The slots give the moisture a place to run-off. The slots also clean the pads and help avoid pad glazing. My two cents. Greg J S4audinut@aol.com wrote: > Please correct me if I am mistaken, but slots are on rotors to vent hot > gasses and promote a flat wear/friction surface; not provide a runoff gutter > for liquids. > Rod From turbo_quattro at hotmail.com Mon Oct 2 22:57:40 2000 From: turbo_quattro at hotmail.com (Nik Brkic) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Tire Wheel Combo Message-ID: What is the biggest tire wheel combo that I can fit on a stock bodied '86 5KTQ? how wide can I go with out getting too personal with the tie rod? I want to fit a 17" rim with at least a 215/40 or 45/ZR17 and am willing to do some body work to make this combination work. TIA Nik Brkic 1986 Audi 5KTQ 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 (For Sale) Vancouver BC Canada _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From ckrug at laf.cioe.com Tue Oct 3 01:03:29 2000 From: ckrug at laf.cioe.com (Calvin Krug) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Petit LeMans Message-ID: I just returned home from my annual visit to Road Atlanta. This year was especially nice, as the weather was perfect all weekend, and I got to see Team Joest's Audis finish first and second. On top of that, my friend got Alan McNish's autograph, and I caught one of the Michelin hats that the drivers wore on the podium. Those guys have quite an impressive operation. I walked through the paddock, and saw something quite interesting. All the teams use pit boards with magnetic letters, which a crew member holds over the pit wall for the driver to see..........except for Audi. Their pitboards were electronic, lighted (great when racing at night), and mounted on an arm which would pivot them out automatically when the car approached. Very slick. Why hadn't anyone else thought of that? Calvin Krug From Doyt at nwonline.net Tue Oct 3 02:50:57 2000 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: poor idle on 4kq In-Reply-To: <39D952C0.3146E768@engr.orst.edu> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20001003014056.00a3b380@mail.nwonline.net> Try taking the patch off and see if your idle problem goes away. If the idle returns to "within factory specifications," then look for and correct obstructions/restrictions to the air flow through the induction tube from behind the passenger headlight region. That tube may have a hornet's nest, or a loose flap of tube liner, or just be collapsed somewhere along it's length past the point of your patch. I had an 86 4kq with a similar very deteriorated "cold air inlet tube." I drove the car through some flood water and the engine slurped up about a quart of the flood water and hydrolocked the engine, bending most of the rods. I had to replace the engine. Good hunting. Doyt Echelberger >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 08:30 PM 10/2/00 -0700, you wrote: Problem with an 87 4kq: poor initial idle ..snip.... Just to see what it would do, I duct tapped up a rather large hole in a very deteriorated, what I believe is called, "cold air inlet" a rubber ~3 inch tube that makes a 90 degree bend below the air box. ...snip....Anyway the real problem is that now that I have closed up the leak in the hose, the car idles very poorly when initially started from cold. It starts ok and then immediately begins to oscillate between ~1400 and 300 rpm with a period of a few seconds. At the bottom of the range it sounds like it is going to die and I have to give it some gas to bring the engine speed up. After it has warmed up for a short time the oscillation goes away and everything seems OK if perhaps a little rough. Does anyone have any ideas of what to check? I don't know for sure but would not be surprised if this car were on its original O2 sensor. Thanks for the help Luke From JCS_TX at webtv.net Tue Oct 3 01:55:56 2000 From: JCS_TX at webtv.net (HOUSTON) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Tire Wheel Combo Message-ID: <17582-39D974EC-7406@storefull-125.iap.bryant.webtv.net> www.tires.com/ec also know as www.discounttiredirect.com only goes up to 18in for the 86 5KQT. They have to be 18x7.5, and the tires they have available for it was 215 40/45 18. Just click above link, click to your door, then click on tires. It's quite informative. It gives you the rim offset also. I'm going with 17x7.5 MAS MGR rims, but haven't decided on the tires yet. If the G-Year TK/TKW's are available in that siz, those are what I'll get. -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: "Nik Brkic" Subject: Tire Wheel Combo Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 21:57:40 PDT Size: 2474 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/45a22651/attachment.eml From tnas at euronet.nl Tue Oct 3 08:51:44 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Cibie lights available in U.S. Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001003074728.00abc100@mail.euronet.nl> wrote: >Yers. The Hellas have a 'D..' mark against them - Germany only - and >adjustable lights were only fitted to 20Vs. So I think we're talking >about 130 out of 11,000+ cars. > > >I'm not aware of any legal requirement, but the feature was very high >profile in marketing by, e.g., Daimler-Benz at the time. In Holland, there's been a law requiring electrically heigth-adjustable lights on every new car since '94 I think. Tom From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Tue Oct 3 00:43:22 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor References: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002225547.009f3760@pop.snet.net> Message-ID: <033c01c02d05$39ad02a0$0201a8c0@pnix.net> Wrongo! Audi was well entrenched into 3-wire OXS' in 1986. Apologies for being a bit abrupt, but please remember that someone reading the post might have believed you to be correct and installed a 1-wire OXS in their car to save $$$. Unfortunately, the other thing that Audi did was to mount the OXS a bit farther downstream in the exhaust ... depending upon the heater to ensure proper operation of the OXS. When I bought my '85 4kSQ the car never really ran well ... when I dropped the cat (yes that's where the OXS is mounted on this car!) I found the PO had installed a one wire OXS in place of the requisite 3-wire. After chasing down a set of replacement heater wires (thanks Chris Semple!) I was able to fit a universal 3-wire replacement ... and the car runs like a champ! While you are right that the ECU will ignore the OXS until the engine warms up, if you install a 1-wire in a car which is supposed to have a 3-wire the ECU will start reacting to the OXS when the engine warms up ... but the OXS will not be operating properly as it is not at the correct temperature! Get a 3-wrie replacement Craig ... you will definitely see a difference in the way your engine runs ... and the fuel economy will probably improve as well ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) > in '86 audi was using unheated sensors, so it's prolly correct. The extra > unused connector you see is the CIS OXS duty cycle for setting the mixture > and CO level. Even if you put a 3-wire in, the ECU won't do anything w/ the > signal till the thermoswitch triggers. So unless you swapped ecu's too, you > wouldn't benefit. The poor mileage is prolly combination of things...bad o2 > sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, engine compression, vacc. > leaks, etc. > > try replacing the cheap stuff first and inspect the whole thing > carefully...good luck. > > -ameer > > > At 10:11 PM 10/2/00, you wrote: > >With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. It > >currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 wire > >sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > >there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 > >CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've looked > >in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this sensor > >will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg > >according to the trip computer). TIA. From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Tue Oct 3 00:47:41 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) References: <000601c02c42$f7b2fca0$3800000a@JATER> <007301c02ce8$7236c240$6fc97118@crdva1.bc.wave.home.com> Message-ID: <034501c02d05$d3a3fd00$0201a8c0@pnix.net> > Mine broke off about 5-6 months ago. I placed and tightened the hose clamp > on remaining part of the tube and so far it didn't move at all. Remember that the part of the fitting that broke off had a ridge which helped to hold the hose in place ... so now to keep the hose on you will need to tighten the hose clamp more ... over a fitting that has already demonstrated that it is brittle. No big deal, I did that myself on the '88 5kCSQA before the fitting broke away again (while the wife was driving on the freeway) ... when the car got a replacement radiator ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Tue Oct 3 01:02:54 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: ALMS at Laguna Seca / Problems with the "Bay Area" list References: <20001003012914.28123.qmail@web5305.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <039a01c02d07$f40baa00$0201a8c0@pnix.net> As far as I have been able to determine, the corral at Sears Point was part of the Audi dealers' promo package. As I understand it things were apparently fairly loose ... you were supposed to pay $10 to park in the corral. QCUSA had nothing at all to do with anything at Sears Point. It was all pretty ad hoc ... I hear some folks managed to park in the corral for $10 ... others got to park there free ... I am sure that if you walked into an Audi dealer and paid somewhere around $150 you could participate in the hospitality stuff at Laguna ... and pay the $10 to park in the corral. I was hoping to be able to set up something in advance, but (as I posted on the BA list) SCRAMP (i.e. Laguna Seca) requires that you sign up for a hospitality of some sort to be able to qualify for a corral. AoA has indicated very clearly that they aren't at all interested in helping us set up a corral ... our last suggestion (by Harrison) was to have Michael Williams check through his connections with the local dealers to see if there is some way we could get in. As I had said earlier, we're not expecting to weasel into the hospitality suite gratis ... it would simply be nice to be able to pony up an extra $10 to be able to park in the corral. The event is coming up ... perhaps I can give Ann Boge another call to see if we might be able to set something up now ... I hope this helps you (and everyone else) get up to speed ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) > At the Sears Point ALMS in July, there was a small > corral of Audis. I don't know who set it up or how > one gained entrance. I didn't know any of the people > parked there, but I gotta suspect it was organized by > QCUSA... or perhaps Audi NA, as their hospitality tent > was very nearby (I didn't have an invitation to that, > either). > The crowd at SP was mellow and relatively small. I > would suspect the same for Laguna Seca. So besides > making it possible to get very close to the race cars > in the paddock and on the track, it should be possible > to get some corral parking space. I hope that if this > happens it will be publicized. From gerard at poboxes.com Tue Oct 3 10:23:15 2000 From: gerard at poboxes.com (Gerard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Avant Ouch! References: <000201c02cb0$a77f06c0$1c0df7a5@silknet.com> Message-ID: <39D98963.8DDFA1E7@vis.co.za> Ouch, indeed. The roof folded up just like it did on the car I was in. http://64.176.6.234/images/accident/6.jpg http://64.176.6.234/images/accident/7.jpg Or just http://64.176.6.234/oops.html From rneyhart at sover.net Tue Oct 3 06:51:02 2000 From: rneyhart at sover.net (Russell T. Neyhart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: 2.5l engines & brake tubing. Message-ID: <01d401c02d1f$7327d400$c6c0fea9@desktop> Hi All, Besides scouring the countryside for dead Eurovans in wrecking yards, where might a 2.5 liter lower end be found? After I've found a lower end, is there say, a cylinder head the equivalent of using a GTi/GLi big-valve head, but for the 5-cyl.? I have finally finished my brake tubing replacement project on my QSW. It seems that double flaring is somewhat of a skill that I need practice with. Has anyone found a better way to double flare than the little hand units available from Sears and KD? The Sears unit failed on the first try not clamping tight enough and taking the knurls (sp.?) off the clamp rendering it useless. The KD unit worked better, but my skills at this are lacking somewhat. Russ From DFAUTOHAUS at aol.com Tue Oct 3 09:24:31 2000 From: DFAUTOHAUS at aol.com (DFAUTOHAUS@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Looking for bottom engine cover 95 90 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/00 4:59:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Brian@superrealty.com writes: << It didn't come with a bottom engine cover. >> go to your nearest quick oil change shop, it should be leaning against the wall .02 df From tyoung at wamnet.com Tue Oct 3 08:28:21 2000 From: tyoung at wamnet.com (Todd Young) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! References: Message-ID: <39D9D0E5.49111C04@wamnet.com> Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup (actually Rabbit), and I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front wheel drive, easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. Sounds like a perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh > > 44mm carbs, > > 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) > > 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) > > 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a truck....) > > Jay, if you really _need_ a VAG pickup you could get a Toyota hilux and slap > some VW Taro stickers on it. Instant VW pickup truck! If VW can do it this > way why can't you? ;) > > Jorgen Karlsson > Gothenburg, Sweden > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro -- ----------------------------------------------------------- Life's a beach. Dig your toes into the sand and enjoy. ----------------------------------------------------------- Todd Young WAM!NET Inc. tyoung@wamnet.com 655 Lone Oak Drive, Bldg#A 651-256-5051 Eagan, MN 55121 800-585-1133 ext.5051 http://www.wamnet.com/ '93 Audi 90S(|___\====OOOO====/___|) From rmezic at keyspanenergy.com Tue Oct 3 09:22:18 2000 From: rmezic at keyspanenergy.com (RICHARD MEZIC) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Oxygen sensor Message-ID: <000c01c02d34$923881e0$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> I apologize for not following the recent thread re: oxygen sensors. It didn't interest me until I realized that my 200 now needs one. What's the summary - go to Pep Boys / Strauss / (u-fill-it-in) and get a generic replacement? A oxygen sensor is an oxygen sensor? Cst approximately $40 versus $100+ from the dealer? -RJM- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/86d35ca1/attachment.htm From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 09:33:04 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Tire Wheel Combo References: Message-ID: <39D9D200.C054B2B0@mestek.com> You shouldn't have any problems fitting 17". If I could do it on my golf, you definately can on the 5k. Probably like a 225/40-17, or a 215/45-17 would work great. Just double check your offset, but if the rims have the wrong offset, spacers can be safely used. Check out some of these sights: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/discount.splash.html http://www.tirerack.com/index.jsp http://www.victoriatire.com/ http://www.tires-wheels.com/ I hope this helps. I also have a tire size conversion chart in xls (Excel) format if you want to properly plus size tires. It gives you circumfrence and RPM divergence. Theron J. Bliss 1990 V8 Quattro Nik Brkic wrote: > What is the biggest tire wheel combo that I can fit on a stock bodied '86 > 5KTQ? how wide can I go with out getting too personal with the tie rod? I > want to fit a 17" rim with at least a 215/40 or 45/ZR17 and am willing to do > some body work to make this combination work. TIA > > Nik Brkic > 1986 Audi 5KTQ > 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 (For Sale) > Vancouver BC Canada > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From jwamboldt at moseleycorp.com Tue Oct 3 09:39:41 2000 From: jwamboldt at moseleycorp.com (Justin Wamboldt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 Message-ID: <006B2F421AC5D211847300805F65E3F970A99F@MOSELEYNTSERVER> Since it looks like I won't get much of a performance increase even if I do find one, other than exhaust, what are my other options for getting more power out of this car? > -----Original Message----- > From: Ryan Hoitink [mailto:rahoitink@students.wisc.edu] > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 10:53 PM > To: Andrew Lundy; Justin Wamboldt; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: RE: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > Send them an email message. Tell them that you heard they > offer a chip for > the 2.8 12v Audi v6. Ask them to tell you what Bosch ecu #'s > they offer a > chip for. They will get back to you within a couple days. > Compare it to > the one you have in your car. I just inquired about it about > 2 weeks ago. > > -Ryan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Andrew Lundy [mailto:fast928@prodigy.net] > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:32 PM > To: Ryan Hoitink; Justin Wamboldt; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > Hey Ryan, > > I looked at that site but I didn't see anything for the 12v!!! Is it > possible that they dropped the chip?? > --- > Andrew Lundy > fast928@prodigy.net > 90 80Q > 91 90 > 95 90Q > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ryan Hoitink" > To: "Justin Wamboldt" ; > > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:46 PM > Subject: RE: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > > Wetterauer is the only one I know of.(www.chip-tuning.com) > In addition, > > they only make chips for certain ECU numbers. Be prepared > to pay aroung > > 500-600 dollars for about 12 HP. Not worth it in my book. > That's why > > nobody makes them. The 12v engine is not extremely > tunable, without great > > investment. > > > > -Ryan > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > Behalf Of Justin Wamboldt > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 3:35 PM > To: 'quattro@audifans.com' > Subject: chip for 12v A4 2.8 > > > Does anyone know of someone that makes a chip for the 12v 2.8? All the sites > I've found only offered chips for the 30v > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Oct 3 09:45:40 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! Message-ID: When I was in college, one of my friends had a book of cars for sale, rediculous things like the Fonz's motorcycle in Happy Days and a 900+ hp 57 chevy for 50,000. Well one of the cars advertised was a VW rabbit with a 911 Turbo motor stuffed in the back of the car. The rear half of the body would swing open as if the motor was mounted on a trailing arm kind of like the rear suspension on a dirt bike. It looked quite sick, thou WHY anyone would bother with that kind of power in a Rabbit is beyond me. It was supposedly capable of over 160mph as well. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: Todd Young [SMTP:tyoung@wamnet.com] > > Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup (actually > Rabbit), and > I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front wheel > drive, > easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. Sounds like > a > perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. > > Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > > > 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh > > > 44mm carbs, > > > 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) > > > 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) > > > 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a > truck....) > > > > Jay, if you really _need_ a VAG pickup you could get a Toyota hilux and > slap > > some VW Taro stickers on it. Instant VW pickup truck! If VW can do it > this > > way why can't you? ;) > > > > Jorgen Karlsson > > Gothenburg, Sweden > > > .audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 09:42:33 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: V8 Alarm References: Message-ID: <39D9D439.D98C6696@mestek.com> Yes. It's the original from dealer O2 sensor, with 3 wire (2 on one plug, and 1 on the other) connection. The box has the Audi, VW, Seat, and Skoda logo's on them. The price was actually $140. (the $133 was the RPM sensor I got at the same time. I figured for $140, it made more sense then buying a generic. Theron J. Bliss Ron Woods wrote: > This was the original OX sensor with the factory plug in? Where did > you get it if so for this price? > > -----Original Message----- > From: V8Q-owner@u.washington.edu [mailto:V8Q-owner@u.washington.edu]On > > Behalf Of Theron J. Bliss > Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 2:10 PM > To: Audi V8 quattro list > Subject: V8 Alarm > > I'm planning to install a complete remote starter system with > alarm, > and keyless entry, however, until I stop buying parts for my car, I > haven't saved up for the started yet. For now, I'm having problems > with > the factory alarm. First of all, I have to lock and unlock the car > from > the passengers side, because that little plastic thingy is broken in > the > drivers door. The alarm sounds, and sets, but on 4 occasions now, the > > alarm goes off for no apparent reason. I thought the alarm was > passive > like that on my 1996 Golf, which had no shock sensor, and only went > off > if the doors, trunk, etc. were opened, or if the car was hot wired. > Does anyone have any ideas about this? > > On a happier note, after changing my O2 sensor with a factory one > > ($133), and seeing the improvement in gas mileage fro 12 to almost 22, > I > just got back from inspection, and this time, my emissions passed. > One > down, and a few more to go. > > Theron J. Bliss > Massachusetts > 1990 V8 Quattro > 194,000 Miles -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/071de7f4/attachment.htm From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Oct 3 09:48:15 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Tire Wheel Combo Message-ID: I have an 87 5ktq with the A6 16" wheels and 205/55/16 tires on it and NO body mods. I have about 3 mm of space between the front tires and the tie rod ends and about 8-10mm between the rear tires and the body... I havent seen 17" before without body mods not sure if it will work, just be advised about the tire to tie rod clearance. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: Theron J. Bliss [SMTP:tbliss@mestek.com] > > You shouldn't have any problems fitting 17". If I could do it on my golf, > you > definately can on the 5k. Probably like a 225/40-17, or a 215/45-17 would > work > great. Just double check your offset, but if the rims have the wrong > offset, > spacers can be safely used. > > I hope this helps. I also have a tire size conversion chart in xls > (Excel) > format if you want to properly plus size tires. It gives you circumfrence > and > RPM divergence. > > Theron J. Bliss > 1990 V8 Quattro > > > > Nik Brkic wrote: > > > What is the biggest tire wheel combo that I can fit on a stock bodied > '86 > > 5KTQ? how wide can I go with out getting too personal with the tie rod? > I > > want to fit a 17" rim with at least a 215/40 or 45/ZR17 and am willing > to do > > some body work to make this combination work. TIA > > > >.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From rmezic at keyspanenergy.com Tue Oct 3 09:41:51 2000 From: rmezic at keyspanenergy.com (RICHARD MEZIC) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sealed batteries = unsealed? Message-ID: <001301c02d37$4dab5860$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> Sorry, but there's NAC... My '97 Passat TDI needs a new battery. It seems reasonable to me (for a 3-year-old car) because the car spends the week in the garage and only comes out to play on the weekend. The battery was dead when I recently tried to start the car. I removed the caps, topped the cells off with (approved) water and let it charge overnight. The half near the positive terminal spewed black gunk all over the top of the battery and the negative half seemed OK. Upon disconnection from the battery charger, it was unable to start the car. No lights, no reading on the odometer, nothing. Time for a new battery?... Replace with a standard "VARTA"?... Additional question - why does VW/Audi not use a sealed battery? Or the better question - are sealed batteries truly sealed? Or can you just NOT add water to them when they die out? Looking at the "green eye" to see if the battery is charged is kinda convenient. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/1a9095d5/attachment.htm From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 09:51:06 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! References: <39D9D0E5.49111C04@wamnet.com> Message-ID: <39D9D63A.9293B395@mestek.com> Speaking of witch, I have two of the VW pickups. One was started on as a restore, but never finished. I thought it would be a cool project to drop in a 1.8T motor and Audi Quattro drivetrain. Oh well, more dreams then money or sense I suppose. Theron Todd Young wrote: > Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup (actually Rabbit), and > I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front wheel drive, > easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. Sounds like a > perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. > > Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > > > 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh > > > 44mm carbs, > > > 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) > > > 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) > > > 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a truck....) > > > > Jay, if you really _need_ a VAG pickup you could get a Toyota hilux and slap > > some VW Taro stickers on it. Instant VW pickup truck! If VW can do it this > > way why can't you? ;) > > > > Jorgen Karlsson > > Gothenburg, Sweden > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > > please visit the web interface at > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > -- > ----------------------------------------------------------- > Life's a beach. Dig your toes into the sand and enjoy. > ----------------------------------------------------------- > Todd Young WAM!NET Inc. > tyoung@wamnet.com 655 Lone Oak Drive, Bldg#A > 651-256-5051 Eagan, MN 55121 > 800-585-1133 ext.5051 http://www.wamnet.com/ > '93 Audi 90S(|___\====OOOO====/___|) > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tpsidders1 at netzero.net Tue Oct 3 08:58:15 2000 From: tpsidders1 at netzero.net (Tim Sidders) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Where's the air temp sensor on 91 200 20v Message-ID: <000a01c02d4a$5d9d65c0$d07243d8@computer> Hi all, I have a 91 200 20v that I just bought and am trying to sort the car out, the check engine light just came on and pulled code 2322, which according to Scott Mocky's site is a faulty air temp sensor. I can't seem to find the damn thing though. I know where it is on my 5000, but cant find it for the life of me on the 91 200. thanks for the help in advance. Tim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/0d03492e/attachment.htm From armanmik at n-jcenter.com Tue Oct 3 09:46:50 2000 From: armanmik at n-jcenter.com (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sproink! Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20001003084650.227f2df2@n-jcenter.com> Well actually "Snap-Sproink!" And now the sunroof doesn't work properly. For a 1986 5K, anyone have the right side sunroof guide? Goes on the lid which tilts, held on with a screw at the rear, and has the oddly shaped track. I understand there's an "improved, upgraded" part number, but either the older one or the newer one would be fine. Minor PITA to change, but this is a good opportunity to strip and lubricate the whole mess. Best Regards, Mike Arman From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Oct 3 07:22:08 2000 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) Message-ID: <20001003132208.4391.qmail@web4402.mail.yahoo.com> --- isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk, quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk wrote: > Unfortunately Audi decided that Blaupunkt had a > better reputation in > overseas markets than Philips - just as Daimler-Benz > has had to drop > the superb Becker range in many export markets > because the brand is > virtually unknown. I wondered about that myself. The Becker in my uncles 80 240D had the best radio reception I've ever seen in an auto. Ari was pretty cool also. The US really sucks sometimes. (see DOT headlamps) Jim Accordino From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 10:23:08 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sproink! References: <3.0.3.16.20001003084650.227f2df2@n-jcenter.com> Message-ID: <39D9DDBC.C965F030@mestek.com> I've currently got 4 5000 parts cars, all sedans. I'm sure one of them has a good track. If you need me to, I can check for you. When my brother worked in a machine shop, he machined new ones from solid billet stainless steel, and they never broke again. Theron J. Bliss Mike Arman wrote: > Well actually "Snap-Sproink!" > > And now the sunroof doesn't work properly. > > For a 1986 5K, anyone have the right side sunroof guide? Goes on the lid > which tilts, held on with a screw at the rear, and has the oddly shaped > track. I understand there's an "improved, upgraded" part number, but either > the older one or the newer one would be fine. > > Minor PITA to change, but this is a good opportunity to strip and lubricate > the whole mess. > > Best Regards, > > Mike Arman From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Oct 3 07:47:45 2000 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Petit LeMans Message-ID: <20001003134745.1798.qmail@web4403.mail.yahoo.com> --- Calvin Krug wrote: > ..........except > for Audi. Their > pitboards were electronic, lighted (great when > racing at night), and > mounted on an arm which would pivot them out > automatically when the car > approached. Very slick. Why hadn't anyone else > thought of that? How about the luminescent side numerals that appear to be lit at night? That threw one announcer a curve on Speedvisions coverage. But my personal favorite is the "quickchange" rearend, where they can change the entire transaxle and rear suspension as a clip with an overhead gantry system. They changed TWO rearends at Lemans faster than BMW was able to repair their rear wing at Road Atlanta. If others are unwilling or unable to match their innovations, they are destined to fail. Jim Accordino From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Oct 3 08:14:15 2000 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Capscrew fun-disassembling a quattro Message-ID: <20001003141415.25318.qmail@web4401.mail.yahoo.com> Just doing some major work on the junkyard special. The capscrews that hold the driveshaft CV to the rear drive input flange are installed with Loctite Red. Yeow! One must have taken 400 ft. lbs. to break loose! Observations so far: The rear struts are shot. Side slop especially in crosswinds and sideloading (like exit/entrance ramps) indicated such, and the fluid all over the body of one and the lack of any rebound confirmed. Do Boge struts fail in rebound first? The 6 I have examined so far all had fair compression resistance, but almost no rebound resistance. All my seals on the rear drive leak. I knew the the input flange seal or cover o-ring leaked. It's about a Class 2/3 for any military types. The rear axle flange seals both show slight weeping so I'll replace those as well. The rear end of this car (184k miles) has obviously never been touched. At all. I'm amazed at how undamaged everything is. I knew the inner bushing on the rear trap arm was shot, but all the other bushings are very tight and undamaged. I thought the wheel bearings might be marginal, so I bought 4 new ones to replace, but they aren't as bad as I thought they might be. I will inspect them more closely when I get them out of the housing. The exhaust system is HUGE! I can't believe how heavy this thing is. Three mufflers and assorted pipes, all welded together. Again, it is in remarkably good condition given the age and mileage. Noticeably rumbly exhaust note, particularly at idle, suggests to me that the internal baffling may be going away. Any thoughts? There are NO visible holes anywhere on the outside of the system. The sound REALLY bothers the SO, so I probably will replace this soon. Anyone buy one of these monsters? What does it cost? How do they ship this thing? I am finally going to get a chance to try the BMW center bearing replacement. Mine is not really shot, but the rubber mounting is a little soft. This is a subjective observation based on the stiffness of the rubber on the existing one compared to the new BMW replacement I purchased. More to come on this as I sort it out. Jim Accordino p.s.- any observations, comments, or suggestions are cheerfully accepted From MCTXR4 at aol.com Tue Oct 3 11:17:24 2000 From: MCTXR4 at aol.com (MCTXR4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Petit LeMans Message-ID: In a message dated 10/03/2000 1:24:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ckrug@laf.cioe.com writes: > Their > pitboards were electronic, lighted (great when racing at night), and > mounted on an arm which would pivot them out automatically when the car > approached. Very slick. Why hadn't anyone else thought of that? Probably because they could spend the money better elsewhere. Mike Torio From BLampke at veic.org Tue Oct 3 11:25:05 2000 From: BLampke at veic.org (Barry Lampke) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: 200Q Headlights Message-ID: Should I try to clean mine (if possible-how?) or get some Hella driving lights for under the bumper? What diff between Hella 530 and 550? Are 530s worth it for $50? There are two allen head bolts under bumper. What are they for and can I use the holes to mount lights? If not, how do I secure them under the bumper? Thanks! From JArchibald at whpacific.com Tue Oct 3 08:45:24 2000 From: JArchibald at whpacific.com (Jon Archibald) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: UrQ G60 Conversion ??'s Message-ID: I found a great '88 5kcsq donor car and have already pulled all 4 calipers. My question for the dozens who have done this procedure is do I also need to use different rotors and if so can I pull them from the same 5kscq? For that matter is there anything else I should grab? I'm sure the answer to this question will reveal itself when I take the car apart, but I want to go back for the rest of the parts I need before they disappear and I won't have time to dig into the switch for a few weeks. If anyone has a procedure for this conversion that they can email or have posted details on a webpage I would love to know about it. I know its been discussed here many times before, but my limited archive-searching prowess forces me to bring it to the list. TIA, Jon From Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com Tue Oct 3 10:48:03 2000 From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com (Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <006231EA.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Douglas Frank wanted tire info: Mark Chang and others responded: >Dunlop D60A2 JLB. Wouldn't the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 for $64 or the Bridgestone Potenza RE930 for $60 be better choices than the Dunlop D60A2 JLB for $51 in the M+S ("All-Season") rated performance tire category? Albeit, the SP5000 and RE930 are about $10 more per tire, but they are better tires too. I have heard that the D60 can get "lumpy" even in the "A2 JLB" version. I know my older D60 tires got lumpy. I have not heard any bad things about the Bridgestone Potenza RE930 suffering tread separation like the SUV tires under recall right now. Mine work very well. Maybe the price will drop given all of the bad press Bridgestone-Firestone is getting right now. Does anyone have any bad things to say about the SP5000 or RE930? Eric R. Kissell 1989 200q Avant, needs 1.8 bar upgrade 1986 5000cstq, 1.8 bar, k24, Fuchs at next tire change 1987 VW GTI 16v, 1984cc, Euro Intake Camshaft, Techtonics SS exhaust, etc. From wphelps at rizzo.com Tue Oct 3 11:48:50 2000 From: wphelps at rizzo.com (Bill Phelps) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Avant Ouch Message-ID: <6338D3B810C2D211ABE10060979F9F3992B663@mail.rizzo.com> Isn't that what most wrecking yards advertise as "runs and yard drives"?? or perhaps "Easy hit in front" > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:23:15 +0200 > From: Gerard > To: Kent McLean > CC: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: Avant Ouch! > > Ouch, indeed. > > The roof folded up just like it did on the car I was in. > > http://64.176.6.234/images/accident/6.jpg > http://64.176.6.234/images/accident/7.jpg > > Or just http://64.176.6.234/oops.html > > --__--__-- > > From jervidae at cybermesa.com Tue Oct 3 09:49:37 2000 From: jervidae at cybermesa.com (Tom and Carlyn Jervis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Avant, new price Message-ID: OK, price comes down to $12,000. I will sell this car. If you are interested let me know. Price will continue to come down (slowly) until it sells, but then its gone. Lots of people buy these cars for $9,500 and then spend $5,000 putting them right. This one already is. 1991 Audi 200 TQ Avant, Glacier Blue/Dark blue interior, 114,000 miles, compulsively maintained to date by original owner. Car garaged when not on the road. This car could sit on a showroom floor without embarrassment. No phone, no kids, no pets, no smokers, no Bose fireworks system, no cracks in front shock tower bracing. Everything works (actually, I think one of the indicator lights in the window switches is out.). UFO rotors with no-dust pads. New distributor this winter. Oil changes at 3,000-4,000 miles, Burns no oil. All other maintenance performed as required. Power steering fluid and filter changed regularly. Modifications/upgrades: Euro lights, Bilstein HD shocks, UFOs cold-treated, No engine mods. Michelin Pilot XGT-VR-4 tires at 97K mi, roof bars, original floor mats unused. UFOs survived track time a year ago (prior to cold treatment) so they are probably keepers. Never any structural damage. Right rear quarter panel was repainted by high-quality shop in July, 1998 as a result of small ding (2" diameter) from hit and run. You can't see any contrast to orginal paint. There are no body dings. Can deliver within reasonable distance but that depends on price. If you want an Avant, this is the one. Tom Jervis Los Alamos, NM 505-662-5287 Jervidae@cybermesa.com -- From JShadzi at aol.com Tue Oct 3 11:58:43 2000 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: 1.8T in 90Q Message-ID: <79.a5d7c88.270b4e23@aol.com> In a message dated 10/2/00 11:47:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, audi90quattro@hotmail.com writes: << Does anyone know if a 1.8T motor will bolt up to a 95 90q V6 5sp transmission? >> No, the mounting bolt patterns are different, you would need to use an earlier, longitudinal mount 4 cyl. tranny. Javad From JCorbs at gtresort.com Tue Oct 3 12:11:38 2000 From: JCorbs at gtresort.com (John Corbishley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: UrQ G60 Conversion ??'s References: Message-ID: <002101c02d4c$3b33f880$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Make sure you get the mounting brackets!! Use Ate Powerdiscs John Corbs ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Archibald To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 10:45 AM Subject: UrQ G60 Conversion ??'s > I found a great '88 5kcsq donor car and have already pulled all 4 > calipers. My question for the dozens who have done this procedure is do > I also need to use different rotors and if so can I pull them from the > same 5kscq? For that matter is there anything else I should grab? I'm > sure the answer to this question will reveal itself when I take the car > apart, but I want to go back for the rest of the parts I need before > they disappear and I won't have time to dig into the switch for a few > weeks. If anyone has a procedure for this conversion that they can email > or have posted details on a webpage I would love to know about it. I > know its been discussed here many times before, but my limited > archive-searching prowess forces me to bring it to the list. > TIA, > Jon > From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Tue Oct 3 18:41:50 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! In-Reply-To: <39D9D0E5.49111C04@wamnet.com> Message-ID: > Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup > (actually Rabbit), and > I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front > wheel drive, > easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. > Sounds like a > perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. > I know which one you mean, it was called VW Caddy over here and was built in Jugoslavia, the factory was destroyed during the first part of the war, years ago, that is why the production of these stopped. After that VW started building a delivery type car based on the Polo. Now VW and Skoda now has a common pickup truck design based on the polo. I know of a guy in the US that has installed a turbo charged GTI engine in the old Caddy, I think he ran mid to low 13's on the 1/4mile!!! The Taro was based on a Toyota Hilux 4X4. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 12:48:59 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! References: Message-ID: <39D9FFEB.E2638C2B@mestek.com> I'll try to find the web address, but theres a VW pickup here that runs low 10's with a caburated 2.0 16Valve. Theron Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup > > (actually Rabbit), and > > I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front > > wheel drive, > > easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. > > Sounds like a > > perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. > > > > I know which one you mean, it was called VW Caddy over here and was built in > Jugoslavia, the factory was destroyed during the first part of the war, > years ago, that is why the production of these stopped. After that VW > started building a delivery type car based on the Polo. Now VW and Skoda > now has a common pickup truck design based on the polo. > > I know of a guy in the US that has installed a turbo charged GTI engine in > the old Caddy, I think he ran mid to low 13's on the 1/4mile!!! > > The Taro was based on a Toyota Hilux 4X4. > > Jorgen Karlsson > Gothenburg, Sweden From ameer at snet.net Tue Oct 3 13:06:24 2000 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor In-Reply-To: <033c01c02d05$39ad02a0$0201a8c0@pnix.net> References: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002225547.009f3760@pop.snet.net> Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001003120243.009f4eb0@pop.snet.net> that's funny cuz my friend has a '86 that also has a one-wire. I guess it must be real common for people to switch sensors....that's pretty weird, I wonder who convinced em it was ok to use 1 vs. 3. Check w/ Rod at thepartsconnection and he can tell you what you're supposed to have. They have good prices, but I've heard some stores like PepBoys and Autozone can get cheaper ones, and you don't have to wait for the part. -ameer At 02:43 AM 10/3/00, you wrote: >Wrongo! Audi was well entrenched into 3-wire OXS' in 1986. Apologies for >being a bit abrupt, but please remember that someone reading the post might >have believed you to be correct and installed a 1-wire OXS in their car to >save $$$. Unfortunately, the other thing that Audi did was to mount the OXS >a bit farther downstream in the exhaust ... depending upon the heater to >ensure proper operation of the OXS. When I bought my '85 4kSQ the car never >really ran well ... when I dropped the cat (yes that's where the OXS is >mounted on this car!) I found the PO had installed a one wire OXS in place >of the requisite 3-wire. After chasing down a set of replacement heater >wires (thanks Chris Semple!) I was able to fit a universal 3-wire >replacement ... and the car runs like a champ! > >While you are right that the ECU will ignore the OXS until the engine warms >up, if you install a 1-wire in a car which is supposed to have a 3-wire the >ECU will start reacting to the OXS when the engine warms up ... but the OXS >will not be operating properly as it is not at the correct temperature! Get >a 3-wrie replacement Craig ... you will definitely see a difference in the >way your engine runs ... and the fuel economy will probably improve as well >... > >Steve Buchholz >San Jose, CA (USA) > > > in '86 audi was using unheated sensors, so it's prolly correct. The extra > > unused connector you see is the CIS OXS duty cycle for setting the mixture > > and CO level. Even if you put a 3-wire in, the ECU won't do anything w/ >the > > signal till the thermoswitch triggers. So unless you swapped ecu's too, >you > > wouldn't benefit. The poor mileage is prolly combination of things...bad >o2 > > sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, engine compression, >vacc. > > leaks, etc. > > > > try replacing the cheap stuff first and inspect the whole thing > > carefully...good luck. > > > > -ameer > > > > > > At 10:11 PM 10/2/00, you wrote: > > >With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. >It > > >currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 >wire > > >sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > > >there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 > > >CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've >looked > > >in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this >sensor > > >will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg > > >according to the trip computer). TIA. > > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From donohue at netconnx.net Tue Oct 3 13:15:35 2000 From: donohue at netconnx.net (Thomas J. Donohue, Jr.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! References: Message-ID: <39DA0627.5823A9D9@netconnx.net> You should try a porsche powered Karmann-Ghia. An uncle of mine in the San Diego area pushed one of these for years. Hmmmm. Wonder if he still has it? "Beatty, Robert" wrote: > When I was in college, one of my friends had a book of cars for sale, > rediculous things like the Fonz's motorcycle in Happy Days and a 900+ hp 57 > chevy for 50,000. Well one of the cars advertised was a VW rabbit with a > 911 Turbo motor stuffed in the back of the car. The rear half of the body > would swing open as if the motor was mounted on a trailing arm kind of like > the rear suspension on a dirt bike. It looked quite sick, thou WHY anyone > would bother with that kind of power in a Rabbit is beyond me. It was > supposedly capable of over 160mph as well. > > Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Todd Young [SMTP:tyoung@wamnet.com] > > > > Actually, here in the USA, there was a Golf hybrid pickup (actually > > Rabbit), and > > I've seen some pretty hot custom jobs on web sites. Hmmmm, front wheel > > drive, > > easily modified, and probably very cheap, if you can find one. Sounds like > > a > > perfect recipe for a third vehicle, that only gets used occasionally. > > > > Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > > > > > 1977 924 (full tilt, 2.1L, elgin cam,msds header,two mikuni phh > > > > 44mm carbs, > > > > 2100lbs,944 brakes, roll bar, 150HP....) > > > > 1988 Jetta GL (everyday Deutsch flog-hound) > > > > 1983 Ford Ranger 4x4 V6 (WHAT? a FORD!sorry VAG doesnt MAKE a > > truck....) > > > > > > Jay, if you really _need_ a VAG pickup you could get a Toyota hilux and > > slap > > > some VW Taro stickers on it. Instant VW pickup truck! If VW can do it > > this > > > way why can't you? ;) > > > > > > Jorgen Karlsson > > > Gothenburg, Sweden > > > > > .audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From erickson at teleport.com Tue Oct 3 10:20:33 2000 From: erickson at teleport.com (Gary Erickson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: [Fwd: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor] Message-ID: <39DA0751.B1FF3FBA@teleport.com> I had originally sent this directly to Craig, but it looks like I should have replied to "all." ;-) -Gary -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:56:37 -0700 From: Gary Erickson To: "Craig D. Niederst" "Craig D. Niederst" wrote: > With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. It > currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 wire > sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 > CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've looked > in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this sensor > will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg > according to the trip computer). TIA. Craig, The Coupe GT's still had the oxygen sensor mounted in the downpipe from the manifold (rather than in the neck of the catalytic converter like the 4kq's). That location is warm enough that Audi continued to use the single-wire sensor in the GT's through the end of their life. (The mythical high-compression 2.3l special edition GT's sold as '87.5 models may be a different story) The 2-wire socket that you are referring to is a test point for the CIS system to plug in one of the diagnostic tools. Even if you do find 12V there, I wouldn't recommend trying to use it as a power source! ;-) The single wire OXS is the correct replacement, if you were willing to wire up a power source that was switched with the ignition, you could easily install a three wire OXS, but I'm betting any gains would be minimal. HTH! -Gary '85 turbo GT coupe '89 80q '89 200q From msvphoto at pacbell.net Tue Oct 3 10:32:02 2000 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: bmw's plans for 2001 Message-ID: <39DA0A02.FEA83ABE@pacbell.net> Some clarifications and additions... Also, go to http://fastdetails.com/ for some exceptional photography by Tim Crete and stories on new and exiting things in the world of sports car racing. Yes, BMW is pulling out of prototypes. They really already started to in that this season's ALMS effort is not a factory one, rather the Schnitzer team running last year's cars. (I hope they can get two put together in time for the Laguna Seca round...last two races they pretty much wrote off two cars.) The BMW M3 effort really only means even more factory support for the PTG team that already runs the latest version M3 in GT class (and still can't beat the Porsche GT3 even with the likes of Hans Stuck and Boris Said driving more often than not). The latest rumors for Caddilac include Dallara (Ferrari 333SP constructor) and TWR (nuf said but the Arrows sure ain't what them TWR Jaguars used to be...hmm, maybe it's cuz Audi has their old designer?). GM can pretty much forget it for 2001...too late now to change horses in the middle of the stream. VW seems intent to continue development of a car for the 675 class (think IMSA GTP "lights" in the US). Bugatti may make a showing. Judd is starting to sell a lot of engines and they sound sweet. Lola is making a bigger presence with a Newman Haas racing transporter at PLM offering parts and technical support to the Lola runners (not a bad chassis really). Panoz. The new car looks *gorgeous* and the engine is an all new 4.0L all aluminum design built in-house. The car will still have the engine in front of the driver but more towards the middle of the car and very low. I believe this car is set to debut at the season finale in Australia (close to you Dave!). Audi. Who knows? Apparently Audi only commits to motorsport budgets on a year-by-year basis and next year's budget/plans are not yet announced. It appears that Audi is in ALMS and LeMans for the long haul. Look for Kristensen to replace McNish as lead driver in one car (McNish will be busy full-time testing Toyota's new F1 engine it appears). I have no worries about the 2000 R8 remaining competitive. It is the most technologically advanced sports car in motorsports history and should easily have two seasons worth of staying power. Porsche. Check out the shot in the above site. That thing will run in the GTS (FIA GT) category with Vipers, 'Vettes, and the Saleen S7. Saleen S7. Is not a prototype. This is a GTS class legal car that is set to make it's competition debut in just under two weeks at Laguna Seca. (Tommy Kendel is listed as one of the drivers too!) There is much more going on in the world of sports car racing but this post is getting long. Some of my favorite sites for more info: http://www.supersportscarworld.com http://professionalsportscar.com (find me at the forum there) http://theracesite.com (where I am proud to provide photographs) and of course Tim Crete's excellent Fast Details site referenced above. The big question is will Audi step up and start selling customer cars??? They certainly seem committed to seeing ALMS/ELMS (two seperate series starting next year) succeed. I can't wait for Laguna Seca! Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From brodgers at ofdc.on.ca Tue Oct 3 13:40:07 2000 From: brodgers at ofdc.on.ca (Bryan Rodgers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: New to the list Message-ID: Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to everyone. I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k for $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. There were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm bushings and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence and a soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found it. Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that go 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is starting to see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be patient with me. Thanks for the bandwidth. Peace, B ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Cars previously owned: -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done to it, was!) -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and all) -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) -1976 VW Panel Van -1972 VW Bus -1969 VW Camper From yetmanc at ghsp.com Tue Oct 3 13:50:44 2000 From: yetmanc at ghsp.com (Chris Yetman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor Message-ID: I also just replaced my 1 wire with a 3 wire in an '86CGT, I used a F**d part from Autozone, Bosch and everything. The connector was there and everything. Right now I am waiting for the car to get out of the shop, it had a bad wheelbearing, and it cooked the hub. The dealer said $390 for the hub, Blau said $42.95, but sent the wrong one, so after a week I still don't have the car on the road yet, I just found out yesterday that Blau can't get the right hub at this time. So I had to buy a complete used strut housing from a local junkyard in hopes that it will have a good useeable hub on it. Ahh the joys/frusterations of owning a 15 year old car with parts hard to find and expensive. That putsa my total for the last month up to about $1750 in parts. Just venting over a week and I still don't have my car back, Chris '82 Cpe needs radiator '86 CGT new front end -----Original Message----- From: Ameer Antar [mailto:ameer@snet.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:06 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor that's funny cuz my friend has a '86 that also has a one-wire. I guess it must be real common for people to switch sensors....that's pretty weird, I wonder who convinced em it was ok to use 1 vs. 3. Check w/ Rod at thepartsconnection and he can tell you what you're supposed to have. They have good prices, but I've heard some stores like PepBoys and Autozone can get cheaper ones, and you don't have to wait for the part. -ameer At 02:43 AM 10/3/00, you wrote: >Wrongo! Audi was well entrenched into 3-wire OXS' in 1986. Apologies for >being a bit abrupt, but please remember that someone reading the post might >have believed you to be correct and installed a 1-wire OXS in their car to >save $$$. Unfortunately, the other thing that Audi did was to mount the OXS >a bit farther downstream in the exhaust ... depending upon the heater to >ensure proper operation of the OXS. When I bought my '85 4kSQ the car never >really ran well ... when I dropped the cat (yes that's where the OXS is >mounted on this car!) I found the PO had installed a one wire OXS in place >of the requisite 3-wire. After chasing down a set of replacement heater >wires (thanks Chris Semple!) I was able to fit a universal 3-wire >replacement ... and the car runs like a champ! > >While you are right that the ECU will ignore the OXS until the engine warms >up, if you install a 1-wire in a car which is supposed to have a 3-wire the >ECU will start reacting to the OXS when the engine warms up ... but the OXS >will not be operating properly as it is not at the correct temperature! Get >a 3-wrie replacement Craig ... you will definitely see a difference in the >way your engine runs ... and the fuel economy will probably improve as well >... > >Steve Buchholz >San Jose, CA (USA) > > > in '86 audi was using unheated sensors, so it's prolly correct. The extra > > unused connector you see is the CIS OXS duty cycle for setting the mixture > > and CO level. Even if you put a 3-wire in, the ECU won't do anything w/ >the > > signal till the thermoswitch triggers. So unless you swapped ecu's too, >you > > wouldn't benefit. The poor mileage is prolly combination of things...bad >o2 > > sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, engine compression, >vacc. > > leaks, etc. > > > > try replacing the cheap stuff first and inspect the whole thing > > carefully...good luck. > > > > -ameer > > > > > > At 10:11 PM 10/2/00, you wrote: > > >With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. >It > > >currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 >wire > > >sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > > >there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 > > >CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've >looked > > >in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this >sensor > > >will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg > > >according to the trip computer). TIA. > > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From JCorbs at gtresort.com Tue Oct 3 13:41:53 2000 From: JCorbs at gtresort.com (John Corbishley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q Message-ID: <00d001c02d58$d62b2e60$0f29010a@jcorbishley> I'd like to completely replace the hydraulic fluid in the steering system. Any tips, tricks, pitfalls, BTDTs in words of one syllable would be appreciated. TIA John Corbs From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Tue Oct 3 19:55:52 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Yihaaa! I finally found a suitable 4kq for my turbo projet!!!! Message-ID: These has proved to be very hard to find here in Sweden, but a few days ago I found one, ufortunally at the other end of the country. I had to pay $1700 unseen for it, but it has the perfect attributes for a turbo transplant, no sunroof, no equipment at all really. It is a 80Q from 1983. The seller probably think that I have lost my sanity... This weekend I will spend a lot of hours on a train. The cheapest airplane ticket was twice as expensive as a round trip to Miami from here! Sick or what? 200TQ -85 14@102 200TQ -85 Spares and donor car. 80Q -83 TQ sounds better then Q... From quattroking at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 10:53:39 2000 From: quattroking at hotmail.com (The Quattro King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sproink! In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.16.20001003084650.227f2df2@n-jcenter.com> Message-ID: Snag them from Volvos at the wrecking yard. The Audi's usually seem to have them already gone. Shayne P. 1972 MB 280 SEL 1984 4ksq 1987 4ks 1991 v8q5 1991 200q Sedan 1992 S4 Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 > From: Mike Arman > Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:46:50 > To: > Subject: Sproink! > > > Well actually "Snap-Sproink!" > > And now the sunroof doesn't work properly. > > For a 1986 5K, anyone have the right side sunroof guide? Goes on the lid > which tilts, held on with a screw at the rear, and has the oddly shaped > track. I understand there's an "improved, upgraded" part number, but either > the older one or the newer one would be fine. > > Minor PITA to change, but this is a good opportunity to strip and lubricate > the whole mess. > > Best Regards, > > Mike Arman > From ackramer at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 17:55:41 2000 From: ackramer at hotmail.com (Alan Kramer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor Message-ID: In my experience working on 1983, 1985, 1986 and 1987.5 CGT's, all except the 1987.5's have the oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust manifold just after the #5 cylinder by the battery tray. This is plenty hot for a single-wire oxygen sensor. In 1987.5 the 5-2-1 exhaust manifold was used on the NG motor; the oxygen sensor moved down into the downpipe just after all 5 cylinder's exhaust gasses combined. A 3 wire sensor was used from the factory here, because it is so far away from the head. I have never seen an oxygen sensor mounted in the cat on a CGT. I believe this is a 4kq phenomenon only. Interestingly, the 4kq's 5-3-1 exhaust manifold could have been cast with a hole for an oxygen sensor. There is a flat spot the diameter of an O2 sensor bung just before the flange to the downpipe. If a hole were there, it would only have measured the O2 for 4 of the cylinders (it would have split the wall between the two larger pipes). For that reason I believe the sensor was relocated to the cat, which on the 4kq is the first place where all cylinder's exhaust gasses pass together. My feeling is that if you have the oxygen sensor in the e-m, use a 1 wire. If it's in the downpipe or cat, use the 3 wire. HTH, Alan '83 CGT '86 CGT '86 4kcsq >From: Gary Erickson >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: [Fwd: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor] >Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 09:20:33 -0700 > >I had originally sent this directly to Craig, but it looks like I should >have replied to "all." ;-) > >-Gary > >-------- Original Message -------- >Subject: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor >Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 08:56:37 -0700 >From: Gary Erickson >To: "Craig D. Niederst" > >"Craig D. Niederst" wrote: > > > With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new >one. It > > currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 >wire > > sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > > there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the >'86 > > CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've >looked > > in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this >sensor > > will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 >mpg > > according to the trip computer). TIA. > >Craig, > >The Coupe GT's still had the oxygen sensor mounted in the downpipe from >the manifold (rather than in the neck of the catalytic converter like >the 4kq's). > >That location is warm enough that Audi continued to use the single-wire >sensor in the GT's through the end of their life. (The mythical >high-compression 2.3l special edition GT's sold as '87.5 models may be a >different story) > >The 2-wire socket that you are referring to is a test point for the CIS >system to plug in one of the diagnostic tools. Even if you do find 12V >there, I wouldn't recommend trying to use it as a power source! ;-) > >The single wire OXS is the correct replacement, if you were willing to >wire up a power source that was switched with the ignition, you could >easily install a three wire OXS, but I'm betting any gains would be >minimal. > >HTH! > >-Gary > >'85 turbo GT coupe >'89 80q >'89 200q _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From epotter at abraxis.com Tue Oct 3 14:12:40 2000 From: epotter at abraxis.com (Elliott Potter) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) References: <006231EA.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> Message-ID: <39DA1388.73243D78@abraxis.com> Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com wrote: > > On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Douglas Frank wanted tire info: > > Mark Chang and others responded: > > >Dunlop D60A2 JLB. > > Wouldn't the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 for $64 or the Bridgestone > Potenza RE930 for $60 be better choices than the Dunlop D60A2 > JLB for $51 in the M+S ("All-Season") rated performance tire > category? Albeit, the SP5000 and RE930 are about $10 more per > tire, but they are better tires too. I had a set of RE930's for a while -- absolutely hated them. They hydroplaned at about 40 mph in 1" of water, spun easily on dry flat surfaces, and couldn't grip on painted lines at all. IMO the D60's are much better. Never tried the SP Sport 5000's. > I have heard that the D60 can get "lumpy" even in the "A2 JLB" > version. I know my older D60 tires got lumpy. I'm on my second set of D60's and haven't felt this. Maybe it's a cold-weather thing? > Does anyone have any bad things to say about the SP5000 or > RE930? Last time I was at a track, I had a set of RE930's on the front and a set of D60A2's on the back (not a quattro). The RE930's had such bad traction that I swapped them to the back and put the D60's in front -- made a lot of difference, though the slalom was a bit tough since I kept fishtailing. Just my comparo. As I said, I've never tried the SP5000's so I couldn't say, but I'm pretty happy with the D60A2's. $0.02 -- Elliott From t44tq at bellatlantic.net Tue Oct 3 14:15:24 2000 From: t44tq at bellatlantic.net (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sproink! In-Reply-To: <39D9DDBC.C965F030@mestek.com> Message-ID: <001701c02d5d$84514160$d97afea9@noone> Billet stainless? Sweet! Too bad he's not still there- I really could have used a pair of those a couple months ago. Taka -----Original Message----- I've currently got 4 5000 parts cars, all sedans. I'm sure one of them has a good track. If you need me to, I can check for you. When my brother worked in a machine shop, he machined new ones from solid billet stainless steel, and they never broke again. Theron J. Bliss From BRIT4VWS at aol.com Tue Oct 3 14:19:26 2000 From: BRIT4VWS at aol.com (BRIT4VWS@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Fwd: V8 Engine Problem Message-ID: <46.b5b63fb.270b6f1e@aol.com> -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: BRIT4VWS@aol.com Subject: Re: V8 Engine Problem Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:18:42 EDT Size: 3172 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/c0d24033/attachment.eml From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Oct 3 14:23:16 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q Message-ID: In one syllable words: Lots of dough! :) Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: John Corbishley [SMTP:JCorbs@gtresort.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:42 PM > To: Quattro List; 'urquattro' > Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q > > I'd like to completely replace the hydraulic fluid in the steering system. > > Any tips, tricks, pitfalls, BTDTs in words of one syllable would be > appreciated. > > TIA > > John Corbs > From JCorbs at gtresort.com Tue Oct 3 14:22:33 2000 From: JCorbs at gtresort.com (John Corbishley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q References: Message-ID: <010c01c02d5e$84b05be0$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Why? I'm planning on doing it myself. What would need to be replaced other than the fluid? John Corbs ----- Original Message ----- From: Beatty, Robert To: 'John Corbishley' ; Quattro List ; 'urquattro' Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:23 PM Subject: RE: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q > In one syllable words: > > Lots of dough! :) > > Rob > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: John Corbishley [SMTP:JCorbs@gtresort.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 12:42 PM > > To: Quattro List; 'urquattro' > > Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q > > > > I'd like to completely replace the hydraulic fluid in the steering system. > > > > Any tips, tricks, pitfalls, BTDTs in words of one syllable would be > > appreciated. > > > > TIA > > > > John Corbs > > > From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 14:26:09 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Sproink! References: <001701c02d5d$84514160$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <39DA16B1.82DA0178@mestek.com> Maybe I can look into getting some made up, if there is enough of a desire for them. It might be more cost effective to make them out of billet aluminum. The stainless is a bit heavy, and expensive, and as long as the aluminum is billet, and not cast, they'll never break. If there are enough people who could use the sunroof tracks, or any other machined item like this, let me know, and I have a friend who owns a machine shop, where I could get prices on something like this. As I'm a CAD designer, I can make the designs, and CNC codes, and just have him mill the pieces. Theron J. Bliss TM wrote: > Billet stainless? Sweet! Too bad he's not still there- I really could have > used a pair of those a couple months ago. > > Taka > > -----Original Message----- > > I've currently got 4 5000 parts cars, all sedans. I'm sure one of them has > a > good track. If you need me to, I can check for you. When my brother worked > in > a machine shop, he machined new ones from solid billet stainless steel, and > they never broke again. > > Theron J. Bliss From kevphill at yahoo.com Tue Oct 3 14:27:51 2000 From: kevphill at yahoo.com (Kevin Phillips) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Capscrew fun-disassembling a quattro Message-ID: <003601c02d67$a41b0710$9b2c9e96@barco.com> >Noticeably rumbly exhaust note, particularly at idle, suggests to >me that the internal baffling may be going away. Any >thoughts? There are NO visible holes anywhere on the >outside of the system. The sound REALLY bothers the >SO, so I probably will replace this soon. Me thinks you should keep the rumbly exhaust and replace the missis. The I5 growling sounds better than any growling wife ever could !!!!! Kevin Phillips, W.Mass 1990 200TQ 136,000 miles 1995 Saab 900 SET Ragtop 107,000 miles From t44tq at bellatlantic.net Tue Oct 3 14:39:40 2000 From: t44tq at bellatlantic.net (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: Some 4kq related questions Message-ID: <001c01c02d60$e82c46a0$d97afea9@noone> Hi listers, A friend of mine just bought a VW Quantum Syncro last weekend. Now I'm somewhat familiar with these cars- basically the same as a 4kq. Some questions: Are there any differences in the drivetrain or engine from a 4kq? Why does an '88 Quantum still have the pull-knob system for the diff locks when the '85 4kq already went to the dial system? What would cause the drivetrain (possibly the rear diff) to whine? He's got some work to do: Sticky clutch wants to stay down when depressed- possible bad clutch slave cylinder? Suspension is messed up- one tire has heavy uneven wear on the outside shoulder. Hydraulic fluid is low- does this car use the special G00 2000 or does it take ATF? I assume it uses the special stuff. Wet return hose as well as the pressurized hose to the rack, but the pump is dry. Do these hoses go bad w/o the pump going? The pump is groaning rather loudly, but that may be due to low PS fluid. Car needs a tune up- cap, rotor, plugs and wires. Thanks, Taka From niederst at telerama.com Tue Oct 3 14:38:52 2000 From: niederst at telerama.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:12 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor References: <001701c02cdf$3f6533a0$6804c9cd@acer> <39DA01B5.992FC10B@teleport.com> Message-ID: <002b01c02d60$ce3712c0$4104c9cd@acer> Thanks for everyone's input. The sensor is mounted in the manifold downpipe, so it looks like a 1-wire sensor will do the trick. Does AutoZone sell these 1-wire sensors too, or do they need to be ordered from a specialty place. If there is a generic Bosch one available, anyone know the part number for them? Craig '92 100S (90k) '86 CGT (190k) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Erickson" To: "Craig D. Niederst" Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:56 AM Subject: Re: '86 CGT oxy sensor > "Craig D. Niederst" wrote: > > > With all this oxy sensor talk, I know my '86 CGT is in need of a new one. It > > currently has a one wire sensor in it now. I noticed that while this 1 wire > > sensor plugs directly into a single socket plug on the factory harness, > > there is a 2 wire socket on the same harness that is unused. Does the '86 > > CGT take a 3 wire heated sensor, or is the 1 wire one correct? I've looked > > in the family album, and its inconclusive. I am hoping replacing this sensor > > will correct the horrible idle problems and the poor gas mileage (~12 mpg > > according to the trip computer). TIA. > > Craig, > > The Coupe GT's still had the oxygen sensor mounted in the downpipe from > the manifold (rather than in the neck of the catalytic converter like > the 4kq's). > > That location is warm enough that Audi continued to use the single-wire > sensor in the GT's through the end of their life. (The mythical > high-compression 2.3l special edition GT's sold as '87.5 models may be a > different story) > > The 2-wire socket that you are referring to is a test point for the CIS > system to plug in one of the diagnostic tools. Even if you do find 12V > there, I wouldn't recommend trying to use it as a power source! ;-) > > The single wire OXS is the correct replacement, if you were willing to > wire up a power source that was switched with the ignition, you could > easily install a three wire OXS, but I'm betting any gains would be > minimal. > > HTH! > > -Gary > > '85 turbo GT coupe > '89 80q > '89 200q From msvphoto at pacbell.net Tue Oct 3 11:39:53 2000 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: ALMS at Laguna Seca / Problems with the "Bay Area" list Message-ID: <39DA19E9.314F88B3@pacbell.net> In a message dated 10/3/00 Matt twentyV writes: << At the Sears Point ALMS in July, there was a small corral of Audis. I don't know who set it up or how one gained entrance. I didn't know any of the people parked there, but I gotta suspect it was organized by QCUSA... or perhaps Audi NA, as their hospitality tent was very nearby (I didn't have an invitation to that, either). The crowd at SP was mellow and relatively small. I would suspect the same for Laguna Seca. So besides making it possible to get very close to the race cars in the paddock and on the track, it should be possible to get some corral parking space. I hope that if this happens it will be publicized. >> It was strange, the woman running the Audi Hospitality Tent (Audi Sport NA employee) was unaware that Sears Point was charging $10.00 per car for that corral. I believe that a pass for that corral was included in the $150.00 Audi dealer packages (which BTW really is not a bad deal if you can get one...three day admission with VIP treatment ain't bad for $150.00). Laguna Seca also will be charging for that corral AFAIK and it is entirely possible you could get in there if you really want to. The crowd size could be moderate. Nothing like '98 and '99 MH crowds or CART crowds of seasons past, but look for it to be decent. PLM had the largest crowd at Road Atlanta in a very long time from what I understand. Sears Point this year had a much larger crowd than last (but nothing like the 150k that pack in that track for NASCAR). I expect Friday to be the best day for paddock walks. It will be a crowded paddock just because of the number of different series running (ALMS, SVGT, TransAm, Star Mazda, and Lamborghini Challenge...that should be interesting--Diablos rubbin' and bumpin'). The ALMS car count looks good with 14 LMP cars, 10 GTS, cars, and 15 GT cars in the field as of today's entry list (entries closed at midnight last night but PSCR has been known to make exceptions and 4 spots remain available). Bay Area Audi Fans--(especially those in San Jose area) at noon Wednesday October 11 there will be a public viewing of the cars, drivers, etc. will be in downtown San Jose at noon. Not exactly sure where but I think it said something about that in the event flyer I have at home. I'll post again with more details. This is a great event that is done at all ALMS races in the spirit of downtown scrutineering at LeMans. They have driver autograph sessions, you can go right up to and touch the cars, they have a tire rolling contest, and other activities...great way to spend lunchtime downtown if you can get there (I can't but I'll be immersed in the weekend starting early Friday morning). There is also testing going on all day Thursday for those who just can't get enough (great day to show up and pick out your campsite if you're camping at the track). I'll post more as I hear about it... Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From Paul_Anderson at go.com Tue Oct 3 11:42:32 2000 From: Paul_Anderson at go.com (Paul Anderson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Bosch part number Message-ID: <947168.970594952988.JavaMail.Paul_Anderson@gomailjtp05> Hi all, Can anyone tell me the Bosch part# for the turbo bypass valve on a '91 200Q? Thanks Paul ___________________________________________________ GO.com Mail Get Your Free, Private E-mail at http://mail.go.com From gwbutler at net1plus.com Tue Oct 3 14:55:13 2000 From: gwbutler at net1plus.com (gwbutler) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: CV or not CV Message-ID: <39D65B44@imail.net1plus.com> Hello all, Interesting trip into work this morning in my 84ksq. Sequence: 1. Accelerating to merge onto highway 2. At approximately 39mph sound is being emitted from left front side of vehicle, sounds very similar to fan kicking on, only significantly louder,...and doesn't diminish until I reduce speed to under 39mph (fan works normally) 3. Also, sound does not diminish if I take vehicle out of gear or rev engine while out of gear (when over 39mph) While hoping for a simple fix, I'm thinking bearing, CV joint, etc. As this is my first Audi, I'm not sure what the sound characteristics of either condition would be...any guesses. TIA Regards, George B. Massachusetts From tlum at flash.net Tue Oct 3 11:50:25 2000 From: tlum at flash.net (Tony Lum) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor In-Reply-To: <5.0.0.25.0.20001002225547.009f3760@pop.snet.net> References: <001701c02cdf$3f6533a0$6804c9cd@acer> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20001003103911.00cd3100@pop.flash.net> At 11:01 PM 10/2/00 -0400, you wrote: >in '86 audi was using unheated sensors, so it's prolly correct. The extra >unused connector you see is the CIS OXS duty cycle for setting the mixture >and CO level. Even if you put a 3-wire in, the ECU won't do anything w/ >the signal till the thermoswitch triggers. So unless you swapped ecu's >too, you wouldn't benefit. The poor mileage is prolly combination of >things...bad o2 sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel injectors, engine >compression, vacc. leaks, etc. > >try replacing the cheap stuff first and inspect the whole thing >carefully...good luck. > >-ameer I've got to disagree here. My '85 4kcsq has a CIS-E fuel injection system with fully heated O2 system. The O2 sensor is mounted in the cat, quite far from the EM so the heated sensor is necessary. With the smog laws getting tougher each year, I can't believe that Audi ever went back to a 1 wire sensor. In studying the 1989 Model change info I got recently, emissions were getting so tight that even the charcoal cannister had a shut off valve and duty cycle valve to admit crankcase ventilation into the IM only above 1400 rpm! The duty cycle connector would be a white nylon connector with female contacts laying near or on the right strut tower, whereas the O2 sensor will be a 2 pin sealed connector with a wire snap lock release, probably at the left rear of the engine. Regards, -- Tony _______________________________________________________________________ Tony Lum 1987 5000CS Turbo Quattro Berkeley, California, U.S.A. 1985 4000CS Quattro Audi Owner/Driver/Mechanic by Necessity ;^) 1980 5000S Sedan QCUSA Member #6885 1987.5 Coupe GT 1983 Ur-quattro _______________________________________________________________________ From msvphoto at pacbell.net Tue Oct 3 11:59:52 2000 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Petit LeMans Message-ID: <39DA1E97.642ACC4E@pacbell.net> In a message dated 10/3/2000 james accordino writes: << How about the luminescent side numerals that appear to be lit at night? That threw one announcer a curve on Speedvisions coverage. But my personal favorite is the "quickchange" rearend, where they can change the entire transaxle and rear suspension as a clip with an overhead gantry system. They changed TWO rearends at Lemans faster than BMW was able to repair their rear wing at Road Atlanta. If others are unwilling or unable to match their innovations, they are destined to fail. >> Much as I would love to give Audi full credit for these inovations, one must also include Joest racing who was an excellent choice by Audi to run this team. I understand that there is some very serious competition between the two cars as well where the #77 is the "Joest car" and the #78 is the "Audi car" which could help make things a little more interesting as the two go running off into the ALMS sunset (which also explains why McNish was so upset watching his leading #77 block the Panoz at the end of PLM). I too thought that was funny when the speedvision announcer had to be corrected for describing the number illumination as being like a "license plate light" or something. As far as BMW encountering difficulty in replacing the rear wing, that was poorly commentated on by Speedvision when they made that comparison. That was accident damage and it should be noted that the #78 Audi also suffered from accident damage that was not repairable quickly...and in fact they had to run for several hours to the finish with ~10% reduction in total downforce as a result of not being able to replace the damaged rear diffuser (which is why it was close for second at the end). The Joest team simply knows how to win endurance races, Audi picked the best and it was not a hard choice. (Here's a shot of the now famous "cherry picker" http://motorsportvisions.com/spalms00/pages/sp00_023.htm) Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 15:01:48 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Some 4kq related questions References: <001c01c02d60$e82c46a0$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <39DA1F0C.7D09A1AA@mestek.com> Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm sure you all will. : ), but isn't the Quantum (Passat) more like a 1983 and older 5000 then the 4000? TM wrote: > Hi listers, > A friend of mine just bought a VW Quantum Syncro last weekend. > > Now I'm somewhat familiar with these cars- basically the same as > a 4kq. > > Some questions: > Are there any differences in the drivetrain or engine from a 4kq? > > Why does an '88 Quantum still have the pull-knob system for the > diff locks when the '85 4kq already went to the dial system? > > What would cause the drivetrain (possibly the rear diff) to whine? > > He's got some work to do: > Sticky clutch wants to stay down when depressed- possible bad clutch > slave cylinder? > > Suspension is messed up- one tire has heavy uneven wear on the outside > shoulder. > > Hydraulic fluid is low- does this car use the special G00 2000 or > does it take ATF? I assume it uses the special stuff. Wet return hose > as well as the pressurized hose to the rack, but the pump is dry. > Do these hoses go bad w/o the pump going? The pump is groaning rather > loudly, but that may be due to low PS fluid. > > Car needs a tune up- cap, rotor, plugs and wires. > > Thanks, > Taka From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Oct 3 15:14:49 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: CV or not CV Message-ID: Most likely front wheel bearing. Way to test is if the noise goes away when turning left, it is the left front wheel bearing that is bad. Turn right and gets quiet its the right side. Once you think you know what side it is, jack the car up and take off that wheel and see how that side spins, usually you can hear it grinding away when you turn it by hand. CV joints usually dont make noise at speed, they are more inclined to pop and snap when turning at low speeds. To test CV's find a big parking lot thats empty and roll down your windows. Turn the wheel to one side to the limit of steering travel and make a few SLOW circles in the lot. Repeat for other direction. If you have a bad CV joint you will hear clicking, snapping and popping sounds while turning. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: gwbutler [SMTP:gwbutler@net1plus.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:55 PM > To: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: CV or not CV > > Hello all, > > Interesting trip into work this morning in my 84ksq. Sequence: > > 1. Accelerating to merge onto highway > > 2. At approximately 39mph sound is being emitted from left front side of > vehicle, sounds very similar to fan kicking on, only significantly > louder,...and doesn't diminish until I reduce speed to under 39mph (fan > works > normally) > > 3. Also, sound does not diminish if I take vehicle out of gear or rev > engine > while out of gear (when over 39mph) > > While hoping for a simple fix, I'm thinking bearing, CV joint, etc. As > this > is my first Audi, I'm not sure what the sound characteristics of either > condition would be...any guesses. > > TIA > > Regards, > > George B. > Massachusetts From Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com Tue Oct 3 14:18:27 2000 From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com (Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <0062602C.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> On 10/3/2000 Elliott Potter responded: >I had a set of RE930's for a while -- absolutely hated them. >They hydroplaned at about 40 mph in 1" of water, spun easily >on dry flat surfaces, and couldn't grip on painted lines at all. Interesting. On what car did you have these Bridgestones? I will probably try Dunlop SP5000 tires next, unless I hear something bad about them. On the other hand, I may decide to go the route of three season tires plus a set of winter tires like I did when I lived in Michigan. I need to consider the pros and cons of my tire options again now that I live in the occasional ice belt of Southern Indiana rather than the continual snow belt of Western Michigan. Thanks, Eric R. Kissell 1989 200q Avant, needs 1.8 bar upgrade 1986 5000cstq, 1.8 bar, k24, Fuchs at next tire change 1987 VW GTI 16v, 1984cc, Euro Intake Camshaft, Techtonics SS exhaust, etc. From Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com Tue Oct 3 14:51:23 2000 From: Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com (Livolsi, Stephane) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: talking about weird problems.... Message-ID: The other night while driving, my daughter asks " Dad, why are the lights moving from side to side like that?" " hmm, what do you mean?" as I look down to see the button lights on the climate control "waving" from right to left. It actually looks kinda cool, but obviously there is something amiss. First the rightmost light comes on and as it goes out the next one to the left goes on and as it goes out the next one goes on and etc. When the "wave" gets to the numbers on the temp display it "waves" the numbers too, from right to left. for example, if the display was 23, it would light up the 3 and as the 3 goes out it lights up the 2, then the 2 goes out and the button lights keep waving down to the left. This repeats over and over again. The one thing that seems to affect this is the bulb dimmer switch. If it is set to max brightness, there is no wave. Anything less than max and it waves away.... Stephane Livolsi Williams Lake, BC, Canada 86 5KTQ (If you don't know what it means, you aren't in the club) >---------- >From: > quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk[SMTP:quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk] >Sent: October 1, 2000 5:00 PM >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start > > >> Boy, you really get the crazy problems, don't you? Normally would say to >> check and clean all grounds (common problem). But since this is affecting >> both dash, starting, as well as keeping it running, then it sounds like a >> power line off the starter or Alternator that feeds all these areas. I >> don't have the wiring diagram but I say corrosion on a main power feed. > >I get the normal ones too - I just post the real whacky ones in case >someone else has seen them before. In this case I think it's some >general electrical malaise - perhaps water ingress somewhere. > >-- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From brodgers at ofdc.on.ca Tue Oct 3 15:57:12 2000 From: brodgers at ofdc.on.ca (Bryan Rodgers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FW: New to the list Message-ID: if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... B -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:31 PM To: Bryan Rodgers Subject: Re: New to the list I am sorry to hear that becuase I think that you paid way too much for that car, especially for a non-quattro model. These cars can be gotten for $500.0 USD (or $700 CDN). Look for them on the net and check the prices for yourself. A couple weeks, Auto Trader had one for sale at $800 CDN in Ottawa region. $800 vs $ 1800 is a huge price difference. A 14, almost 15-year old car should not cost more than $1000 becuase you will be expected to feed it more $$$ on regular basis. Also, AUDI parts in Canada are very expensive and few and far between, unlike VW pieces. Consider yourself warned. Andrew 88 5ksq Ottawa, ON Bryan Rodgers wrote: > Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to everyone. > > I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k for > $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. There > were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm bushings > and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence and a > soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. > > I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) > > I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found it. > Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that go > 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is starting to > see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) > > I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be patient > with me. > > Thanks for the bandwidth. > > Peace, > B > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > Cars previously owned: > -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) > -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done to > it, was!) > -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) > -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and > all) > -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) > -1976 VW Panel Van > -1972 VW Bus > -1969 VW Camper From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 16:03:33 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: talking about weird problems.... References: Message-ID: <39DA2D85.2A87F710@mestek.com> Speaking of weird problems, my gas gauge (which at present decided it doesn't want to work), was acting kinda funky one night. As I was driving home, it would slowly fall to E (about a 10 second timing), then rapidly rise to full, then slowly descend to E again, and quickly rise to full... It did this over and over again for about 20 minutes, until I shut the car off. Any ideas? Now the gauge just doesn't work at all. Theron J. Bliss 1990 V8 Quattro "Livolsi, Stephane" wrote: > The other night while driving, my daughter asks " Dad, why are the > lights moving from side to side like that?" " hmm, what do you mean?" as > I look down to see the button lights on the climate control "waving" > from right to left. It actually looks kinda cool, but obviously there > is something amiss. First the rightmost light comes on and as it goes > out the next one to the left goes on and as it goes out the next one > goes on and etc. When the "wave" gets to the numbers on the temp > display it "waves" the numbers too, from right to left. for example, if > the display was 23, it would light up the 3 and as the 3 goes out it > lights up the 2, then the 2 goes out and the button lights keep waving > down to the left. This repeats over and over again. The one thing that > seems to affect this is the bulb dimmer switch. If it is set to max > brightness, there is no wave. Anything less than max and it waves > away.... > Stephane Livolsi > Williams Lake, BC, Canada > 86 5KTQ (If you don't know what it means, you aren't in the club) > > >---------- > >From: > > quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk[SMTP:quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk] > >Sent: October 1, 2000 5:00 PM > >To: quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start > > > > > >> Boy, you really get the crazy problems, don't you? Normally would say to > >> check and clean all grounds (common problem). But since this is affecting > >> both dash, starting, as well as keeping it running, then it sounds like a > >> power line off the starter or Alternator that feeds all these areas. I > >> don't have the wiring diagram but I say corrosion on a main power feed. > > > >I get the normal ones too - I just post the real whacky ones in case > >someone else has seen them before. In this case I think it's some > >general electrical malaise - perhaps water ingress somewhere. > > > >-- > > Phil Payne > > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From JCorbs at gtresort.com Tue Oct 3 16:11:45 2000 From: JCorbs at gtresort.com (John Corbishley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list References: Message-ID: <018901c02d6d$c5f61d60$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Hey Brian. There are a lot of good people on the list. Don't let one put you off. If the car has been well maintained it could well be worth what you paid. Having said that, the most important thing is that you are pleased and happy with it. That is its true worth. There are a lot of folks on the list who love the 4k and will be very happy to help with any issues you might have. BTW I thought that some of the "Ss" were quattros? John Corbs ----- Original Message ----- From: Bryan Rodgers To: Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail) Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:57 PM Subject: FW: New to the list > if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... > > B > > -----Original Message----- > From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:31 PM > To: Bryan Rodgers > Subject: Re: New to the list > > > I am sorry to hear that becuase I think that you paid way too much for that > car, > especially for a non-quattro model. These cars can be gotten for $500.0 USD > (or > $700 CDN). Look for them on the net and check the prices for yourself. A > couple > weeks, Auto Trader had one for sale at $800 CDN in Ottawa region. $800 vs $ > 1800 > is a huge price difference. A 14, almost 15-year old car should not cost > more > than $1000 becuase you will be expected to feed it more $$$ on regular > basis. > Also, AUDI parts in Canada are very expensive and few and far between, > unlike VW > pieces. Consider yourself warned. > > Andrew > 88 5ksq > Ottawa, ON > > > Bryan Rodgers wrote: > > > Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to > everyone. > > > > I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k for > > $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. > There > > were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm > bushings > > and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence and > a > > soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. > > > > I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) > > > > I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found > it. > > Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that go > > 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is starting > to > > see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) > > > > I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be patient > > with me. > > > > Thanks for the bandwidth. > > > > Peace, > > B > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- > > -- > > Cars previously owned: > > -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) > > -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done to > > it, was!) > > -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) > > -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and > > all) > > -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) > > -1976 VW Panel Van > > -1972 VW Bus > > -1969 VW Camper > From Doyt at nwonline.net Tue Oct 3 16:15:17 2000 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: tire thread (Bridgestones?) Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20001003151315.00a207f0@mail.nwonline.net> Eric Kissell asks: Can I say anything bad about Bridgestone RE930? I am on my 3d set of Bridgestone Potenza RE930 tires, and can report that they have stayed round and have retained their balance while providing adequate traction under most conditions encountered in a 4 season state (Ohio.) I do not drive them on a track. My demands are moderate and conservative, a condition imposed by several years of traffic tickets for speeding, after becoming an Audi enthusiast. My sanity has returned and my highway behavior is under control. My only worry is that in a used condition they might not provide adequate traction on wet roads in an emergency stop from legal highway speed. This only happened once, but it was memorable. As a result, I might consider another brand at the next replacement. Wet traction and snow traction have become more important to me, and this year I am going with 4 new Blizzaks or some such, on their own wheels for easy switching in the spring and fall. Haven't decided on the hot weather tires yet. They probably won't be the RE930's. So, Eric, perhaps I have said something bad about the Bridgestones, as you requested, if being an adequate and long-lasting trouble free tire for most moderate driving situations is a bad thing. It took years and an emergency to discover their mediocre wet traction when they have some mileage on them. I would have been smarter to have run them on a track, and tested their upper limits like some other responders. Doyt Echelberger 87 5kcstq >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 09:48 AM 10/3/00 -0400, you wrote: On Mon, 2 Oct 2000, Douglas Frank wanted tire info: Mark Chang and others responded: >Dunlop D60A2 JLB. Wouldn't the Dunlop SP Sport 5000 for $64 or the Bridgestone Potenza RE930 for $60 be better choices ,,,,,,,,,,,,snip,,,, Does anyone have any bad things to say about the SP5000 or RE930? Eric R. Kissell From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Oct 3 16:21:04 2000 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list Message-ID: I dont see how hes an A-hole for give his opinion that you may have spent too much on your car. I'd have to agree with him... they are a really cheap car to get these days... i paid 1800USD for my 87 5ktq and that was prolly a little too much considering the work i have done to it. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: Bryan Rodgers [SMTP:brodgers@ofdc.on.ca] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:57 PM > To: Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail) > Subject: FW: New to the list > > if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... > > B > > -----Original Message----- > From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:31 PM > To: Bryan Rodgers > Subject: Re: New to the list > > > I am sorry to hear that becuase I think that you paid way too much for > that > car, > especially for a non-quattro model. These cars can be gotten for $500.0 > USD > (or > $700 CDN). Look for them on the net and check the prices for yourself. A > couple > weeks, Auto Trader had one for sale at $800 CDN in Ottawa region. $800 vs > $ > 1800 > is a huge price difference. A 14, almost 15-year old car should not cost > more > than $1000 becuase you will be expected to feed it more $$$ on regular > basis. > Also, AUDI parts in Canada are very expensive and few and far between, > unlike VW > pieces. Consider yourself warned. > > Andrew > 88 5ksq > Ottawa, ON > > > Bryan Rodgers wrote: > > > Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to > everyone. > > > > I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k > for > > $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. > There > > were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm > bushings > > and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence > and > a > > soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. > > > > I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) > > > > I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found > it. > > Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that > go > > 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is > starting > to > > see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) > > > > I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be > patient > > with me. > > > > Thanks for the bandwidth. > > > > Peace, > > B > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > -- > > Cars previously owned: > > -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) > > -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done > to > > it, was!) > > -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) > > -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and > > all) > > -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) > > -1976 VW Panel Van > > -1972 VW Bus > > -1969 VW Camper From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 20:34:01 2000 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: EBay A8 Message-ID: Looks interesting for those looking. No reserve at 14K, currently about 17K http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=451801700&r=0&t=0 Sounds nice on the surface. Mike _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From t44tq at bellatlantic.net Tue Oct 3 16:38:00 2000 From: t44tq at bellatlantic.net (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000201c02d71$70976be0$d97afea9@noone> Bryan, I think you got off to a bad start. I agree that you may have paid too much for a 4000S (non-quattro), but don't take it the wrong way. I don't know what this guy is talking about w/regard to parts. I buy the expensive parts from a place in Canada because even w/ customs, I still come out far ahead. Otherwise, I would have paid $700+ for my Euro lights, $250 for fuel injectors and God knows how much for some other bits here and there. I'm glad you're happy with your car. I had an '85 4000S that came to an untimely demise due to a person making an unsignaled left turn across a four-lane major access road. :-( That was a sweet car, even though it was underpowered and underbraked. It felt solid, had decent handling and was generally a nice car. Everything worked in the car and it didn't cost that much to maintain. Now, on the other hand, my current '86 5kcstq has been quite expensive to maintain.... Regards, Taka -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Bryan Rodgers Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:57 PM To: Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail) Subject: FW: New to the list if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... B From Gary.Kaklikian at compaq.com Tue Oct 3 15:38:10 2000 From: Gary.Kaklikian at compaq.com (Kaklikian, Gary) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Driveshafts Message-ID: <202F03744BDCD31194270000F803CA9E7C53C2@cxoexc2.cxo.dec.com> Does anyone know of a source for rebuilt Quattro driveshafts, or even a shop capable of balancing one? Any BTDT with replacing the CV's and center U-joint, in particular on the 4k/5k? I know Blaufergnugen sells the CV's and center U-joint, but how involved is replacement of these parts? Also, why can't I find a driveline speciality shop that has the equipment to balance the driveshaft assembly? A complete rebuilt driveshaft (I assume balanced) is available from the dealer for $$$. The Bentley also mentions an alignment tool for adjusting the driveshaft. TIA, Gary Kaklikian 86 4ktq 92 S4 From epotter at abraxis.com Tue Oct 3 16:47:01 2000 From: epotter at abraxis.com (Elliott Potter) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) References: <0062602C.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> Message-ID: <39DA37B5.25E89495@abraxis.com> Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com wrote: > > On 10/3/2000 Elliott Potter responded: > >I had a set of RE930's for a while -- absolutely hated them. > >They hydroplaned at about 40 mph in 1" of water, spun easily > >on dry flat surfaces, and couldn't grip on painted lines at all. > > Interesting. On what car did you have these Bridgestones? 1993 90CS (fwd, auto transmission). > I will probably try Dunlop SP5000 tires next, unless I hear something > bad about them. On the other hand, I may decide to go the route of three > season tires plus a set of winter tires like I did when I lived in > Michigan. I need to consider the pros and cons of my tire options again > now that I live in the occasional ice belt of Southern Indiana rather > than the continual snow belt of Western Michigan. The D60's gripped fairly well in the minor bit of ice we got last winter here in Atlanta. I don't know how they would do in real bad stuff though. -- Elliott From MCTXR4 at aol.com Tue Oct 3 16:47:47 2000 From: MCTXR4 at aol.com (MCTXR4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <56.16b2b6e.270b91e3@aol.com> In a message dated 10/03/2000 10:53:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com writes: > I have heard that the D60 can get "lumpy" even in the "A2 JLB" > version. I know my older D60 tires got lumpy. My old D60's were "lumpy" as well, and when the road got really cold and wet their roadholding was not in the category I'd call good. Also they were difficult to keep balanced and didn't protect the rim as well as some other tires I've had. These tires were on a RWD "high performance" vehicle. I've also had V rated Michelin Pilots and they were compromised all the way around, not great in snow, cold and wet or dry. Just adequate. They were still a vast improvement over the stock Goodyear RS-A's. I've also had a set of Toyo Proxes T1S (can't remember the exact model) on a VR6 GTI. Pretty good traction in all scenarios, but never put to the test in snow deeper than a dusting. Way better than the stock Goodyear rubber bands. The BFG Comp T/A Z's (on a RWD car again) M+S rated were better in the cold and wet but none have come close to either my current SP5000's (in 225/50 ZR16 size) or a real snow tire like the Gislavid (sp?). No experience with Bridgestone, Sumitomos, Nitto, etc. I've competed against plenty of cars with Kumho's on the track and they appear to have good traction, but are a softer compound and don't last as long as BFG R1's for example. (This is a personal observation only based on what I've seen at various SCCA races in the IT classes. YMMV) If you need a 4 season tire and can give up "Deep" snow traction, the SP 5000's are it as far as I'm concerned. Otherwise, get a spare set of rims and put snows on. Mike Torio From kevin at cinesite.com Tue Oct 3 13:59:10 2000 From: kevin at cinesite.com (Kevin Schwab) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: CD changer magazine source Message-ID: <10010031259.ZM123805@kubrick.hollywood.cinesite.com> http://store.yahoo.com/parkplaceaudi/index.html 27.00 U.S. -- Kevin Schwab Digital Imaging Cinesite Digital Studios Hollywood, California -Running with scissors. From JArchibald at whpacific.com Tue Oct 3 14:10:29 2000 From: JArchibald at whpacific.com (Jon Archibald) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: MORE UrQ Brake conversion ??'s Message-ID: I should have mentioned this in this morning's post, but the main reason I decided to go ahead with the switch was because I have a frozen bleeder valve on one of the REAR calipers. I will still swap the fronts, but I guess I need to know if the rears from an '82 UrQ are interchangeable with any more prevalent cars from which I could pull replacements? When Folks refer to the "G60 conversion" I have always assumed both front and rears have the same degree of interchangeability. I've got the rears from the same 5000csq, can these be made to work as well? Help? Thanks Jon From jfgte8296 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 3 14:11:56 2000 From: jfgte8296 at yahoo.com (Jacques Fournier) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Timing belt Proceedure Message-ID: <20001003201156.2477.qmail@web4301.mail.yahoo.com> Anyone have documentation on changing the timing belt on an '89 Audi 90 with 2.3L? __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From auditude at neta.com Tue Oct 3 14:13:35 2000 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Some 4kq related questions In-Reply-To: <001c01c02d60$e82c46a0$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <39D9DB7F.19578.6736354@localhost> "TM" wrote: > > Hi listers, > A friend of mine just bought a VW Quantum Syncro last weekend. > > Now I'm somewhat familiar with these cars- basically the same as > a 4kq. Some questions: > Are there any differences in the drivetrain or engine from a 4kq? > > Why does an '88 Quantum still have the pull-knob system for the > diff locks when the '85 4kq already went to the dial system? The dial sytem is more in line with a luxury car, and the knobs are more utilitarian. (speculation, btw) Audi always likes to add stuff that could go wrong, dontcha know? :-P I must admit tho', when things are working properly, vacuum is a pretty cool way to get things done. Later, Ken From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Tue Oct 3 17:20:13 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list References: <018901c02d6d$c5f61d60$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Message-ID: <39DA3F7C.9D70C818@worldnet.att.net> I'll echo that statement. Although my specialty is type 44 chassis, I try to be helpful and also monitor prices. Its not up to me to say sight unseen what one should have paid for a car. I know where a nice 87 4000S quattro is for sale right now for $2K or less. But you'ld be redoing interior, etc etc. I'd much rather spend $1K over book for a car that needs little to nothing than $1K under for a car that needs $2K worth of work. John Corbishley wrote: > Hey Brian. There are a lot of good people on the list. Don't let one put > you off. If the car has been well maintained it could well be worth what > you paid. Having said that, the most important thing is that you are > pleased and happy with it. That is its true worth. There are a lot of > folks on the list who love the 4k and will be very happy to help with any > issues you might have. BTW I thought that some of the "Ss" were quattros? > > John Corbs > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bryan Rodgers > To: Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail) > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:57 PM > Subject: FW: New to the list > > > if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... > > > > B > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:31 PM > > To: Bryan Rodgers > > Subject: Re: New to the list > > > > > > I am sorry to hear that becuase I think that you paid way too much for > that > > car, > > especially for a non-quattro model. These cars can be gotten for $500.0 > USD > > (or > > $700 CDN). Look for them on the net and check the prices for yourself. A > > couple > > weeks, Auto Trader had one for sale at $800 CDN in Ottawa region. $800 vs > $ > > 1800 > > is a huge price difference. A 14, almost 15-year old car should not cost > > more > > than $1000 becuase you will be expected to feed it more $$$ on regular > > basis. > > Also, AUDI parts in Canada are very expensive and few and far between, > > unlike VW > > pieces. Consider yourself warned. > > > > Andrew > > 88 5ksq > > Ottawa, ON > > > > > > Bryan Rodgers wrote: > > > > > Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to > > everyone. > > > > > > I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k > for > > > $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. > > There > > > were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm > > bushings > > > and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence > and > > a > > > soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. > > > > > > I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) > > > > > > I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found > > it. > > > Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that > go > > > 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is > starting > > to > > > see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) > > > > > > I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be > patient > > > with me. > > > > > > Thanks for the bandwidth. > > > > > > Peace, > > > B > > > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > > -- > > > Cars previously owned: > > > -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) > > > -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done > to > > > it, was!) > > > -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) > > > -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and > > > all) > > > -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) > > > -1976 VW Panel Van > > > -1972 VW Bus > > > -1969 VW Camper > > From auditude at neta.com Tue Oct 3 14:19:18 2000 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Oxygen sensor In-Reply-To: <000c01c02d34$923881e0$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> Message-ID: <39D9DCD6.26707.6789E5B@localhost> Lister suggested that I use a Ford Mustang O2 sensor on my '88 5kcstq, which I did. All is good, and the part was under $40. Just cut off the connector and splice in your wiring. Be sure if you use heat shrink tubing or something, that you take into account the temperatures the connection will see. It is a good idea to stagger the connections so they are not right next to each other, I think. Good luck, Ken "RICHARD MEZIC" wrote: > > I apologize for not following the recent thread re: oxygen sensors. It > didn't interest me until I realized that my 200 now needs one. > > What's the summary - go to Pep Boys / Strauss / (u-fill-it-in) and get a > generic replacement? A oxygen sensor is an oxygen sensor? Cst > approximately $40 versus $100+ from the dealer? > > -RJM- > From APawlisz at cadmusgroup.com Tue Oct 3 17:30:12 2000 From: APawlisz at cadmusgroup.com (Andrew Pawlisz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses Message-ID: <39DA41B0.F972D229@cadmusgroup.com> Byan, there is no need for language like this: "if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered..." and "total piece of shit." or "consider yourself a jerk," (in a private message) because: 1. It was my opinon only and there is no need to offend other listers as you did 2. It was addressed only to you and you could have had offended just me 3. My message to you contained no gutter language, unlike your response 4. It reflected my personal experince with 4ks. You know, people on the list sell cars like that frequently, advertise good deals when they see them in papers, and even check cars out for people from out of town. I would have had done that for you and more despite my personal reservation as to what should be the price. Andrew 88 5ksq Ottawa, ON From JCorbs at gtresort.com Tue Oct 3 17:41:55 2000 From: JCorbs at gtresort.com (John Corbishley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: MORE UrQ Brake conversion ??'s References: Message-ID: <003801c02d7a$5f0fb9a0$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Jon: I had the same problem on the Rears of my '83. The '85 was upgraded to a caliper that it shares with a number of other vehicles, at least the later 4kQs. Some of the other guys will know what else. You will also have to change to the later cable which is often the initial source of the problem. There is also another alternative which is to go to the V8 rears. This also involves changing the rotors. Some of the parts are common to the 200 Avants but not all. These were the rears used on the RR Ur-Qs, the final iteration with the 20v engine. John Corbs ----- Original Message ----- From: Jon Archibald To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:10 PM Subject: MORE UrQ Brake conversion ??'s > I should have mentioned this in this morning's post, but the main reason I > decided to go ahead with the switch was because I have a frozen bleeder > valve on one of the REAR calipers. I will still swap the fronts, but I guess > I need to know if the rears from an '82 UrQ are interchangeable with any > more prevalent cars from which I could pull replacements? When Folks refer > to the "G60 conversion" I have always assumed both front and rears have the > same degree of interchangeability. I've got the rears from the same 5000csq, > can these be made to work as well? Help? > Thanks > Jon > From brodgers at ofdc.on.ca Tue Oct 3 17:49:36 2000 From: brodgers at ofdc.on.ca (Bryan Rodgers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FW: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses Message-ID: Oh, I forgot to add that I'm not an idiot. I've owned and modified plenty of my own and friends cars, and I feel I have a good idea of what something is worth. You may have had an opinion, but it would have been nicer to keep it to yourself in this particular instance. After all, it was MY hard-earned cash that was spent on it, and if I didn't know any better, I might have been really hurt by your 'honest opinion'. My friend does the exact same thing, offering up unwarranted opinions, he's an asshole and he knows it. Think of other people before you open your yap. peace, B -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:30 PM To: brodgers@ofdc.on.ca Cc: Quattro list Subject: Re: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses Byan, there is no need for language like this: "if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered..." and "total piece of shit." or "consider yourself a jerk," (in a private message) because: 1. It was my opinon only and there is no need to offend other listers as you did 2. It was addressed only to you and you could have had offended just me 3. My message to you contained no gutter language, unlike your response 4. It reflected my personal experince with 4ks. You know, people on the list sell cars like that frequently, advertise good deals when they see them in papers, and even check cars out for people from out of town. I would have had done that for you and more despite my personal reservation as to what should be the price. Andrew 88 5ksq Ottawa, ON From brodgers at ofdc.on.ca Tue Oct 3 17:50:01 2000 From: brodgers at ofdc.on.ca (Bryan Rodgers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FW: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Bryan Rodgers Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:37 PM To: 'Andrew Pawlisz' Subject: RE: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses ...well, if I stick my neck out for a nice 'hello', and someone writes back with unwarranted criticism, I'm gonna speak up. sorry, it's just the way I am. Since the message I've sent out, I've received plenty of 'nice' responses, so all is good. B -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:30 PM To: brodgers@ofdc.on.ca Cc: Quattro list Subject: Re: New to the list or there is no need for gutter responses Byan, there is no need for language like this: "if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered..." and "total piece of shit." or "consider yourself a jerk," (in a private message) because: 1. It was my opinon only and there is no need to offend other listers as you did 2. It was addressed only to you and you could have had offended just me 3. My message to you contained no gutter language, unlike your response 4. It reflected my personal experince with 4ks. You know, people on the list sell cars like that frequently, advertise good deals when they see them in papers, and even check cars out for people from out of town. I would have had done that for you and more despite my personal reservation as to what should be the price. Andrew 88 5ksq Ottawa, ON From armanmik at n-jcenter.com Tue Oct 3 17:27:23 2000 From: armanmik at n-jcenter.com (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Sproink! Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20001003162723.401f6c26@n-jcenter.com> >From: "Theron J. Bliss" >To: TM , >"'quattro@audifans.com'" , >"v8q@u.washington.edu" >Subject: Re: Sproink! > >Maybe I can look into getting some made up, if there is enough of a desire for >them. It might be more cost effective to make them out of billet aluminum. The >stainless is a bit heavy, and expensive, and as long as the aluminum is billet, >and not cast, they'll never break. If there are enough people who could use the >sunroof tracks, or any other machined item like this, let me know, and I have a >friend who owns a machine shop, where I could get prices on something like >this. As I'm a CAD designer, I can make the designs, and CNC codes, and just >have him mill the pieces. > Just out of curiosity, what kind of money are we talking here? Remember we should probably use the later pattern sunroof tracks as the model . . . Best Regards, Mike Arman From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Oct 3 17:52:28 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Sproink! References: <3.0.3.16.20001003162723.401f6c26@n-jcenter.com> Message-ID: <39DA470C.E005DDE4@mestek.com> I can try to get a hold of my friend tonight, and try to get an estimated cost tomorrow. Theron J. Bliss Mike Arman wrote: > >From: "Theron J. Bliss" > >To: TM , > >"'quattro@audifans.com'" , > >"v8q@u.washington.edu" > >Subject: Re: Sproink! > > > >Maybe I can look into getting some made up, if there is enough of a desire > for > >them. It might be more cost effective to make them out of billet > aluminum. The > >stainless is a bit heavy, and expensive, and as long as the aluminum is > billet, > >and not cast, they'll never break. If there are enough people who could > use the > >sunroof tracks, or any other machined item like this, let me know, and I > have a > >friend who owns a machine shop, where I could get prices on something like > >this. As I'm a CAD designer, I can make the designs, and CNC codes, and just > >have him mill the pieces. > > > > Just out of curiosity, what kind of money are we talking here? Remember we > should probably use the later pattern sunroof tracks as the model . . . > > Best Regards, > > Mike Arman From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 21:53:22 2000 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q Message-ID: Subject: Re: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 13:22:33 -0400 Organization: KSL Grand Traverse Resort charset="iso-8859-1" Why? I'm planning on doing it myself. What would need to be replaced other than the fluid? John, He doesn't realize your/our UrQs don't use Pentosin but the more pedestrian Dextron ATF. Mike _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From konstabo at ms.com Tue Oct 3 18:00:24 2000 From: konstabo at ms.com (Konstantin Bogach) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Plastic Radiator Repair References: <200010021337.JAA20340@audifans.com> Message-ID: <39DA48E7.84AE171B@ms.com> quattro-request@audifans.com wrote: > Send Quattro mailing list submissions to > quattro@audifans.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > quattro-request@audifans.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > quattro-admin@audifans.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Quattro digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Carparts.com cupons (Erik Addy) > 2. Re:Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) (Tom Nas) > 3. Re:pulling the rad on type $$ (urquattro) > 4. RE:Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) (Peter Berrevoets) > 5. Re:Carparts.com cupons (Keith Lawyer) > 6. RE:Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 7. audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 8. Re:foglights (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 9. changing o2 sensors-V6 motors (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 10. Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 11. '90 80q no start (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) > 12. Audi 200 rear seat wiring harness? (Keith Lawyer) > 13. Re:audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder (Peter Guthrie) > 14. V8 Work (Theron J. Bliss) > 15. 87 5ktq...no charge (Thefredx@aol.com) > 16. still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) (William Magliocco) > 17. RE:re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) > 18. Re:Instrument cluster dead: solved (Damien Gaboury) > 19. A4 fuel smell (Kris Hansen) > 20. Re:S6 - battery dieing, resolution (capalmer@nortelnetworks.com) > 21. Re:87 5ktq...no charge (David Head) > 22. Re:It's always something...(longish) (Kneale Brownson) > 23. Re:'90 80q no start (Kneale Brownson) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 01 Oct 2000 23:21:14 -0500 > From: "Erik Addy" > To: > Subject: Carparts.com cupons > > Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for carparts.com? I was > thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but the # I had is no > longer valid. > > Thanks > Erik > > --__--__-- > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 07:50:45 +0200 > To: quattro@audifans.com > From: Tom Nas > Subject: Re: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) > Cc: "Mark L. Chang" > boundary="=====================_298976770==_.ALT" > > --=====================_298976770==_.ALT > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed > > "Mark L. Chang" wrote: > > >Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in > >Seattle, WA. > >Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things > >off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very > >factory: > >The non-factory mods: > >1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) > >2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) > >3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) > >The factory-looking mods: > >1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper > >cover assemblies were painted full body color. > >2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. > >3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about > >knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: > >http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg > >But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that > >were very nice looking. > >I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find > >it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. > > Sounds like a custom paint job to me, as Euro 90qs never had more parts > painted body colour than the US 4ks. > > My site's at http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/AudiJunk/ > > Regards, Tom > > --=====================_298976770==_.ALT > Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" > > > "Mark L. Chang" <mchang@ee.washington.edu> wrote:
>
>
Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the > 520 floating bridge in
> Seattle, WA.
> Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few > things
> off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very
> factory:
> The non-factory mods:
> 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory)
> 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) >
> 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?)
> The factory-looking mods:
> 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both > bumper
> cover assemblies were painted full body color.
> 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat.
> 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about
> knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: >
> http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg >
> But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that
> were very nice looking.
> I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find
> it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice.

> Sounds like a custom paint job to me, as Euro 90qs never had more parts painted body colour than the US 4ks.
>
> My site's at http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/AudiJunk/
>
> Regards, Tom
> > > --=====================_298976770==_.ALT-- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 3 > From: "urquattro" > To: > Subject: Re: pulling the rad on type $$ > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:31:06 -0700 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > > If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator > that > > lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you > > really expect to have the car another 10 years? > > ... IME the Modines are available for around the same price as the > discounted dealer price. When I got the replacement for the 4kSQ from > Carlsen it was an all metal rad made in the Netherlands. I'm sorry, but I > don't happen to agree here on replacing with plastic at all, but if it is > cool for you, go ahead! The thought that an overtightened radiator hose > might lead to a warped head is enough to make up my mind ... > > Steve Buchholz > San Jose, CA (USA) > > ... with experience on just about all of my Audis with an unexpected > catastrophic failure of a plastic rad tank, heater hose or pump without > warning in almost every case ... I've learnt my lesson! > > --__--__-- > > Message: 4 > From: "Peter Berrevoets" > To: "'Christopher Ritchie'" , > "1 Quattro List \(E-mail\)" > Subject: RE: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 03:32:49 -0400 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Mine broke off three months ago - quite irritating to say the least but it's > been on for at least 6000 km no problem. In fact I just did a run to new > york city and back 1780km in 27 hours (stopped in for some business). I had > forgotten it broke until I just read your post. > > Peter > 1990 200TQ > > > >snip > > >I guess I should be grateful that the car breaks when and > > >where it does. > > >But I am getting sick of constantly working on the thing. > > > > > >All this leads to a question. Isn't there a fix for broken radiator > > >outlets? Something like epoxying a neck in the remaining > > >stub? Anybody > > >ever do this? Anybody ever ride around for any length of > > >time with the hose > > >attached only to a 1 inch neck. (I want to get the radiator > > >pressure tested > > >before I go to all the trouble of replacing it.) > > --__--__-- > > Message: 5 > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 00:37:58 -0700 (PDT) > From: Keith Lawyer > Subject: Re: Carparts.com cupons > To: Erik Addy , quattro@audifans.com > > Try coolsavings.com. You can usually get the latest > coupon codes there. > > Keith L. > --- Erik Addy wrote: > > Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for > > carparts.com? I was > > thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but > > the # I had is no > > longer valid. > > > > Thanks > > Erik > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > --__--__-- > > Message: 6 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:51:37+0000 > Subject: RE: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > >>Also the law in the UK allows their use only when > > visibility is less than 50 metres and specifically > > forbids their use in rain. > > > Does it?..i thought the law was vauge..."poor > > visibility" > > EU harmonisation. Just be thankful we don't yet have the lastest - > automatic 50kph limit in rain. > > > Also did that stuck plug ever come out?...and if so > > how > > All five plugs were snapped off - not by me. The car's owner claims > to have got them out without lifting the head. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 7 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:51:42+0000 > Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... > > If we're going to have these: > > a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not > much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few > thousand posts? > > b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe > to use this word, and my filters spot it. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 8 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:51:51+0000 > Subject: Re: foglights > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > >>> '93 V6 80 quattro > > >>Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog > > light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right > > hand traffic only'. > > > just been to check..both light up. But, on closer > > inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the > > car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in > > household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run > > out of proper car wire. > > It's illegal and should not have passed its last MoT. Just don't pass a > bored HM Fuzz patrol with them switched on - it's more than adequate > excuse to pull you over and go through the book, including a breath > test. Figure on about GBP40, three points, a 'present vehicle repaired > within five days' chit and possibly even invalidation of your MoT. And > that's if they don't find anything else. I know of one case (illegally > low front foglights) where the police notified the DoT and the MoT > testing station got a written warning. > > The MoT station we use (Crossroads Garage, Dunton Basset) would most > definitely have failed the car. I know, because Kieth (the tester) > failed a 20V ur-quattro that had been converted to LHD by simply adding > the right fog light and not deleting the left one. > > I would strongly suggest you at least take the bulb out. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 9 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:51:56+0000 > Subject: changing o2 sensors-V6 motors > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > > Forgot to add that pulling the battery not only is > > safer, wipes the memory, but also resets the "learning > > curve" of the ECU back to its base values. > > > I don't know if that is absolutely necessary, but it > > certainly can't hurt. After all, the ECU started life > > at the Audi factory in a car with new o2 sensors. > > We had one case of a 20V RR ur-quattro that had a defective inlet > air temperature sender. The owner had it replaced but complained > that the car still didn't perform. He took it back to the > (specialist!) dealer three times. I met him at the Area K meeting > one day and he explained this. I just pulled the ECU fuses, > whistled 'Dixie' (the recommended tune) for a minute and put > them back. The car was transformed. > > I have a letter from him framed on my office wall. > > > For those with CIS and earlier, and non-lambda models, > > sorry for the BW. > > No, still good advice for some CIS cars - notably the MAC14 MC-2 > engine. Non-volatile memories are not the sole preserve of > Motronics. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 10 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:52:00+0000 > Subject: Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > > Just finished checking the archives. Still a little confused. > > > Can anyone post the procedure for replacing the outer CV joint boot (on an > > '88 5KSQ)? > > Other than "don't - take it to a dealer"? Half-shaft out, spread the > circlip inside the joint, and pound away. Even with the circlip out > of the way (there's a new one in the kit, so you can happily destroy > the old one) the splines are a very tight interference fit - it's > really a two-man job with proper tools. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 11 > To: , > From: > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 08:52:05+0000 > Subject: '90 80q no start > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Reply-to: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > > > I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > > month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > > sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > > battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > > sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > > at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > > engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > Pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor arm is turning. > > I also have a neat little spark cell - it's a kind of neon tube you put > in series with #1 spark plug to see if the engine's trying to fire. > You can get much the same effect by tie-wrapping the removed plug to > the engine hoist bracket. Don't handle the plug while you're doing > this - a full belt from a solid state ignition system can be dangerous. > > -- > Phil Payne > UK Audi quattro Owners Club > Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 > > --__--__-- > > Message: 12 > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 01:09:10 -0700 (PDT) > From: Keith Lawyer > Subject: Audi 200 rear seat wiring harness? > To: list quattro > > Hello, I'm the proud owner of a new-to-me '89 200tq > avant. My first question of many is what are the > wires running to the underside of the rear seat? > > Much thanx, > Keith L. > '81 4ks > '86 4kcsq > '89 200tq > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > --__--__-- > > Message: 13 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 10:26:17 +0100 > From: Peter Guthrie > Organization: Agilent Technologies UK Ltd. > Cc: mailman-owner@audifans.com, quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder > > isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk wrote: > > > > > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... > > > > If we're going to have these: > > > > a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not > > much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few > > thousand posts? > > > > b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe > > to use this word, and my filters spot it. > > > > c) Let's not put unencrypted passwords in the message! > > Peter > > --__--__-- > > Message: 14 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 07:11:17 -0400 > From: "Theron J. Bliss" > To: "v8q@u.washington.edu" , > "'quattro@audifans.com'" > Subject: V8 Work > > Well, I took the morning Saturday, and installed a new RPM sensor, > and a new O2 sensor (now I'm averaging 20 mpg, instead of 12), and that > seams to fix it. The car hasn't died out on me yet, and it's running > much smoother, as well as starting every time. Now I have to order the > Dist. caps. I took them off Saturday to have a look at them, and they > have about 1/8" of corrosion on the electrode tabs. I buffed them clean > with my drill and wire brush head, but I am planning on ordering new > ones this week. Thanks for all your help. > > I was wondering if I could install generic cat's on the car. > > Thanks again for all your help. > > Theron J. Bliss > Massachusetts > 1990 V8 Quattro > 194,000 Miles > > --__--__-- > > Message: 15 > From: Thefredx@aol.com > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:18:27 EDT > Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge > To: quattro@audifans.com > > no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot > light does not report trouble! > this car is not on the road yet...i just bought it (crunched front pass > fender s.b. easy fix) ive owned a urq for 9 yrs so i figured by now i've > gotten used to "audi hell"! :-o > any help out there for a cheap pass side headlight? > car is pearl w/stock pearl rims (not fuchs) 2 owner 128kmiles > also, this car has low black rubber deck spoiler...looks factory; i've never > seen one on a 5k. any info on this spoiler? > > --__--__-- > > Message: 16 > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 05:20:10 -0700 (PDT) > From: William Magliocco > Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) > To: quattro@audifans.com > > Now, Phil adds to the equation...again, I've never > owned a MAC-14 ECU equipped car (MC-2 motor)! > > But, on the subject of non-volatile memory, I will > assert that a memory circuit that you can wipe by > simply removing power _IS_ VOLATILE! The ECU is > simply obtaining some of its power sources straight > from the battery rather than through key switches, > relays, etc. > > I've worked on a tremendous amount of electronic gear > with backup batteries (often lithium) used for memory, > product configuration, clock/calendars, ad nauseam. > It is my understanding that true "non-volatile" memory > means you have memory that won't change state when all > power is removed. There was one group of products > that had a very stringent method to change said > battery...if you got it wrong, you needed to send the > product back to the factory for reprogramming. > > As I stood corrected, my older gasoline powered V-A-G > cars had the simpler ECUs...my thinking did not extend > beyond the 1986 5000 kT sitting outside (with bad > diff), or the '88 VW Fox (hardly a high-tech ECU by > today's standards)... > > in that latter case, the ECU was not even able to tell > me when the coolant temp sensor failed in "cold" mode. > Had to diagnose it by the book...cold the car was ok, > but when warm, way too rich with attendant > driveability problems. The ECU had no diagnostics. I > think it was all linear ICs inside the box too. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > --__--__-- > > Message: 17 > From: "Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)" > To: "'james accordino'" , > "Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)" > > Cc: audi list > Subject: RE: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:35:44 -0400 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > I intend to re-torque "properly" when all gets re-assembled. As I now have > the engine mounted on a proper stand and not dangling, it will be easier to > control. > > I believe it is easier to tighten to torqued specification than to break the > friction of the bolt that has been on for years, and in my case of > performing a partial overhaul, this was the best way. > > Regards, > > Ben Swann > 87.5 GT Coupe engine for 4KQ > > -----Original Message----- > From: james accordino [mailto:ssgacc@yahoo.com] > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 10:42 AM > To: Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN) > Cc: audi list > Subject: Re: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... > > --- "Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)" > wrote: > > > > I tried several things incl. breaker bar. > > Well I borrowed a high torque impact wrench (not my > > cheesy SAMS special). > > Brapp Brapp - it was off so fast I couldn't believe > > I wasted so much time > > trying another way. > > > > 1 vote for the impact wrench. > > Before I even knew any better, I took mine off like > that. CP gun with about 550 ft. lbs. "true" torque. > It was off in about 2 seconds. I believe you could > damage the key or keyway, but probably could by hand > as well. Phil is right about needing to lock the > crank to reinstall it correctly though. I cheated by > using Loctite blue and the gun to reinstall. I'm NOT > recommending this and will probably do it correctly > next time. BTW, you can gauge torque surprising > accurately with a gun when you become very used to the > sound and frequency of the blows. The "cadence" if > you will. This assumes you use a quality gun at a > constant air pressure, and have a good torque wrench > to verify the values occasionally. This will > establish your reference and "gauge" your ear > occasionally. Again, I'm NOT advocating this, I just > believe it is possible. > > Jim Accordino > 2nding the motion > > --__--__-- > > Message: 18 > From: "Damien Gaboury" > To: > Cc: > Subject: Re: Instrument cluster dead: solved > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:36:03 -0400 > charset="iso-8859-1" > > Thank to the numerous peoples (Todd, Steven, Elliot, Ottar, Dan Z..) that > have suggested various solutions for solving my problem. As expected, the > problem was related to the wire harness in the truck. 6 of the 7 wires were > broken and they were all together in short circuit. I have spited the > harness and added a section of wire for all the seven in order to ensure > good flexibility in the hinge. The reparation involve soldering of new wire > sections that I have grouped under a rubber tubing to protect them. The > modification looks stock. > > For the benefice of the list, below are the problems encountered in relation > to the short circuit in the truck wiring harness: > > 1- Erratic operation of the central looking doors when opening and closing > the truck; > > 2- Alarm doesn't want to be armed sometime. > > 3- Burned fuse on the licence plate light. > > 4- Finally the burning of the instrument cluster fuse: everything "dead" > including speedometer, odometer, tachometer, clock, warning lights, and the > all the gauges (water temp, oil temp, voltmeter, oil pressure and fuel). > > Hope that the information will help other peoples. > > Damien Gaboury, PhD > Scientifique de recherche > Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) > Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi > 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 > e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca > Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Damien Gaboury > To: Damien Gaboury ; > Cc: > Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 1:12 PM > Subject: Instrument cluster dead: update and help > > > Car: 90SQ 1993, V6-12V 2.8L > > > > Going to work this morning, I looked at my instrument cluster (dash) and > > discovered that it was dead. All instruments were dead. During the lunch > > time, I have performed some checks and bought some new fuses. Effectively, > > it was the fuse. I replaced it, and it burned out again. Looking at the > > situation as a scientist, I realized that the fuse burn out when and only > > when I engage the reserve speed (manual). Ouf... > > > > That a good observation, because, as every bodies known, resolving > > electrical problems on Audi is commonly expensive in time and money. > > > > I have to mention again that I don't have yet the Bentley manual for this > > car 90 1993 (it will be available soon). Anyway, any gurus have some tips > > for me ? As a way to look up, I know that I have open-circuit problems > with > > a wire harness in my truck (plate light fuse burned, central looking doors > > operate erratically when I open the truck.). That sounds good considering > > that the reverse lights use that wire set. However, I have problem to > figure > > out the electrical link with the instrument cluster and the reverse > lights. > > > > Any help please before the week-end. At the point, I try to use only > forward > > speed. > > > > Damien Gaboury, PhD > > Scientifique de recherche > > Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) > > Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi > > 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 > > e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca > > Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > > please visit the web interface at > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > > --__--__-- > > Message: 19 > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 05:43:08 -0700 (PDT) > From: Kris Hansen > Subject: A4 fuel smell > To: Audi List > > Greetings, > > I have recently began getting a strong gas smell from > the rear of my A4 Avant immediately after parking and > while driving, with the windows down. I have looked > under the car, and there is no real evidence of a > leak. I took the access panel over the pump off, and > the smell of gas is very strong there, but no wetness. > I understand that the gas tank has to vent somewhere, > I just don't know where, and if it is normal, it sucks > because the smell of gas in the cabin is nauseating at > times. Any BTDT appreciated!! > > ===== > Kris Hansen > Pomfret Vermont > 98 A4 quattro Avant 30v tiptronic > 96 A4 quattro 12v 5 speed > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > --__--__-- > > Message: 20 > Subject: Re: S6 - battery dieing, resolution > To: quattro@audifans.com > Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2000 08:55:21 -0400 (EDT) > Reply-To: capalmer@nortelnetworks.com > From: capalmer@nortelnetworks.com > > And the answer was... > > bad battery. Split casing, one empty cell. > > So the sunroof gyrations were a symptom rather than a cause > of the low battery. > > -- > Chris Palmer (1995.5 S6 Avant) "Ashes to ashes, > Sustaining IBM/Switched Protocols dust to dust, > Nortel Networks if Lillee don't get you, > capalmer@nortelnetworks.com Thommo must." > > --__--__-- > > Message: 21 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 09:05:24 -0400 > From: David Head > To: Thefredx@aol.com, qlist > Subject: Re: 87 5ktq...no charge > > Normally this is caused by the blue single wire coming off the alternator. You > may want to pull and check the regulator/brushes also. Once you have the rear > cooling cover off, its only 2 phillips head bolts. Have fun getting the cover > off - those upper nuts are a pain. > > Thefredx@aol.com wrote: > > > no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot > > light does not report trouble! > > --__--__-- > > Message: 22 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 09:22:46 -0400 > To: "Steve Jensen" , > "Quattro List" > From: Kneale Brownson > Subject: Re: It's always something...(longish) > > --=======67D87770======= > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-6D8474A4 > > Even more thanks to Chris for providing a source anybody could point you > to, Steve. > > At 11:19 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: > > >Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful > >page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know > >what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known > >good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. > > --=======67D87770=======-- > > --__--__-- > > Message: 23 > Date: Mon, 02 Oct 2000 09:35:44 -0400 > To: alanpage@connix.com > From: Kneale Brownson > Subject: Re: '90 80q no start > Cc: quattro@audifans.com > > --=======46B265AD======= > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-6D8474A4 > > I'm not familiar with the set-up in an 80, Alan, but on a predecessor 4Kq, > it's two bolts to detach the starter. I'm presuming that if your starter > whirrs, it's getting power. Of course, it could be inadequate power (you > can test for voltage) or corroded contacts that don't let the power get to > the solenoid. My procedure with starters (on vehicles prior to my > association with Audis that began a decade ago--never had an Audi starter > problem) has been to take them off the car, truck or tractor and take the > into a starter repair service. A good one will lube/replace bearings, > clean up contacts, etc., in addition to replacing the solenoid or whatever > it needs. > > At 11:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > >Kneale, > > > >That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the > >starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? > >After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and > >lube the starter? > > > >Thanks, > >Alan > > > >Kneale Brownson wrote: > > > > > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > > > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > > > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > > > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > > > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > > > > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > > > > > >Hello, > > > > > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > > > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > > > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > > > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > > > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > > > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > > > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > > > > > >Thanks, > > > >Alan Page > > > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > > > > > >'94 S4 > > > >'90 80q > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > > > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > > > >please visit the web interface at > > > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > > --=======46B265AD=======-- > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list > Quattro@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > End of Quattro Digest_______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro I drove 10 month with the same problem. About 4-5 times clamp lost the grip and I had to add coolant. It always happened when I shut engine off (electric pump did not turn on yet). I noticed that pressure moves the hose and clamp a little bit off the stub. Time to time I had to move it back. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: konstabo.vcf Type: text/x-vcard Size: 295 bytes Desc: Card for Konstantin Bogach Url : http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/fceb1005/konstabo.vcf From rmezic at keyspanenergy.com Tue Oct 3 17:59:24 2000 From: rmezic at keyspanenergy.com (RICHARD MEZIC) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: You gotta see this... Message-ID: <004b01c02d7c$cf8a0ee0$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> Technical bulletins online... www.tech.vw.com It has VW and Audi service bulletins. I saw it while poking around on www.tdiclub.com for my '97 Passat. -RJM- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/8121cca8/attachment.htm From steveb at cme.nist.gov Tue Oct 3 18:19:40 2000 From: steveb at cme.nist.gov (Steve Barber) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: disabling autocheck bulb-out indicator Message-ID: <39DA4D6C.AF46759B@cme.nist.gov> I'll be doing the relay thing to the Audi and want to make sure I disable the autocheck indicator at the same time. I dug through the archives and found references to removing the output from the bulb-out circuit from the autocheck connector, but no details. Can anyone be more specific about which wire, for those of us who are Bentley-less? Or alternatively: Where is the bulb-check circuit located? (This is an '85 5000.) Thanks, Steve From dave_pisciotta at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 22:12:41 2000 From: dave_pisciotta at hotmail.com (Dave Pisciotta) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: 85 cgt speedo Message-ID: Hello all, A friend of mine has an 85' cgt with a non-working speedo. I obtained a working instrument cluster for him, and will be installing it this weekend. Could someone please give me a btdt on disassembly, etc. since I'm not familiar with the type 44's. I'm assuming the steering wheel should be removed. If so, what is the procedure? Other than that it looks pretty straight forward. Looking forward to your responses. TIA Sincerely, Dave _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From steveb at cme.nist.gov Tue Oct 3 18:40:02 2000 From: steveb at cme.nist.gov (Steve Barber) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: autocheck bulb-out warning Message-ID: <39DA5232.CC1AA7E2@cme.nist.gov> Answered my own question. I tried a few variations on my search keywords and finally ended up with two messages, at least one of which I expect will solve the problem. (My search keywords had to be "autocheck bulb warning"; otherwise I missed these.) Steve From sbigelow at sprint.ca Tue Oct 3 07:14:52 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: blowing hot air/86 5kcst References: <49.1914257.270aa2bf@aol.com> Message-ID: <000201c02d82$538075e0$a3916395@big1> > well, after checking the the bowden cable, which doesn't move at all when I > cycle the hi/low on ac, though the fan does what it should do, the cable > doesn't budge. Sounds like the gear on the programmer motor is fried. New motor required...check the cable for free movement as well, after unplugging from the motor. From mx at snet.net Tue Oct 3 15:58:06 2000 From: mx at snet.net (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: You gotta see this... References: <004b01c02d7c$cf8a0ee0$2b0fa8c0@p17-60A.crg.bug.com> Message-ID: <39DA566E.3C20E2C0@snet.net> Close, there is no www in that url. Its a handy site. Bob RICHARD MEZIC wrote: > Technical bulletins online...www.tech.vw.com It has VW and Audi > service bulletins.I saw it while poking around on www.tdiclub.com for > my '97 Passat.-RJM- -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/89cc7b17/attachment.htm From sbigelow at sprint.ca Tue Oct 3 18:57:29 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: disabling autocheck bulb-out indicator References: <39DA4D6C.AF46759B@cme.nist.gov> Message-ID: <005801c02d84$eda01c00$a3916395@big1> Do your relays first, and see if you actually have to fuss with the autocheck. I did one side, (Bulb out! Bulb out!) and then the other side (....silence...) a day later. Dunno why, don't care. (It was _cold_ alright!?) Steve B Audiwa > I'll be doing the relay thing to the Audi and want to make sure I > disable the autocheck indicator at the same time. From duane at hunch.zk3.dec.com Tue Oct 3 19:41:11 2000 From: duane at hunch.zk3.dec.com (Andrew Duane USG) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: "Silent" alarm, part 2 Message-ID: <200010032241.SAA0000026985@hunch.zk3.dec.com> Well, I dug into the Bentley today, and ran the diagnostics on the central locking, alarm, etc. module (V94). All the external diagnostics run fine. The horn sounds when I jumper the appropriate pins, so that's OK. There's correct voltage on all applicable pins. However, now the alarm no longer goes off audibly at all when I break in. I probably made it worse because I goofed and forgot to reconnect the battery before unplugging V94, which Bentley says you're supposed to do. The alarm still disables the car OK, and all windows, lights, etc. still work as desired. So the finger seems to be a friend circuit board in V94. Big giant suck. Since this is an all-in-one kind of thing (central locking, interior lights, alarm, windows, and door locks including the vaccuum pump) I bet it's $$$$$. :-( -- Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com Compaq Computer Corporation (603)-884-1294 110 Spit Brook Road M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH 03062-2698 Only my cat shares my opinions, and she makes more noise than the car now. From jonb at u.washington.edu Tue Oct 3 16:48:45 2000 From: jonb at u.washington.edu (Jon Blake) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: motor mount query Message-ID: Need another dose of list wisdom. Car is '86 4kcsq. Question about passenger side engine mount. Replacement mount form GPR significantly different in height (I believe more than offsetting pancake effect on old). Old had a rubber cone (perhaps heat shield). Question is new mount didn't come with one. Should I try to reuse the cone even though that will add more height to mount. Should say that the new mount appears to be of sturdier stuff - so no need for rubber cone (assuming it's a heat shield). Am hoping all will say don't need it as that's the way I put it in this past weekend, but have been losing sleep about it. Am doing other things to the car and so am not driving it at the moment. TIA - jon From mx at snet.net Tue Oct 3 16:49:48 2000 From: mx at snet.net (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Steppenwolf Message-ID: <39DA628C.29B01C25@snet.net> Does anyone know what kind of 'under the counter' hobbies these guys have? Whatever it is, it must be an expensive hobby... http://www.s-cars.org/Features/SWOLF/swolf.html Bob From clarkeg at telus.net Tue Oct 3 16:56:52 2000 From: clarkeg at telus.net (Geordie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list References: <200010032110.RAA02163@audifans.com> Message-ID: <001801c02d8d$3b609d40$1853e8d8@bc.hsia.telus.net> Hmmm, this is an interesting topic. Surely anyone who felt sympathetic,or maybe even empathetic for someone who paid too much for a car is not a jerk. I don't think the tone of the message was very bad to consider it rude either. You are totally right about the fac that an opinion does not an A-hole make. But I can also see how someone was excited about buying a new car, then got some reply that criticized the price they paid for it, when honestly,I didn't think it was a terrible price. Keeping in mind that I live in Victoria, BC. I paid $500 for my '82 Coupe just over a year ago now. That was a killer price for a coupe in these parts. Lately, I have seen some newer ones for sale ranging from $2000 up to $3200. And the cars I've seen are in no better shape than mine, likely worse. They also had higher mielage. For other 2WD models, I have seen much higer prices for mid eighties model years. Maybe that's just the market we have here. As for parts, yes they are expensive, especially if you go to an Audi specialist, but I found a wrecker that is largely VW/Japanese and got some very good deals on parts that would have been stupid expensive elsewhere. Find a wrecker that just wants to get rid of their unpopular stock and it will come cheap. So, yeah, there you have it. Car prices are all subjective. It all depends on where it was bought. Geordie Clarke '82 Coupe ----- Original Message ----- >From: "Beatty, Robert" >To: "'Bryan Rodgers'" , >"Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail)" >Subject: RE: New to the list >Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 15:21:04 -0400 > >I dont see how hes an A-hole for give his opinion that you may have spent >too much on your car. > >I'd have to agree with him... they are a really cheap car to get these >days... i paid 1800USD for my 87 5ktq and that was prolly a little too much >considering the work i have done to it. > From lindgre at online.no Wed Oct 4 02:02:02 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: 1.8T in 90Q References: <79.a5d7c88.270b4e23@aol.com> Message-ID: <39DA656A.98DA378E@online.no> JShadzi@aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/2/00 11:47:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, > audi90quattro@hotmail.com writes: > > << Does anyone know if a 1.8T motor will bolt up to a 95 90q V6 5sp > transmission? > >> > > No, the mounting bolt patterns are different, you would need to use an > earlier, longitudinal mount 4 cyl. tranny. > Javad In the German workshop manual I have for my 100 /C4 there are diagrams of the different bellhousings. I'm not sure if the drawings are identical for sake of ease, but the bolt patterns are different, but bellhousing is identical. They show where all bolts, studs and guide pins are located on the different engines, I-4, I-5 and V6. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From knotnook at traverse.com Tue Oct 3 20:13:32 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Draining and Refilling the Steering System Fluid - '83 Ur-Q In-Reply-To: <00d001c02d58$d62b2e60$0f29010a@jcorbishley> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001003190929.00be3e90@traverse.com> Disconnect the return line at the top and plumb it into a big coffee can. Run engine and keep putting in fresh as the reservoir starts to empty out. Have two cans minimum on hand. At 12:41 PM 10/03/2000 -0400, John Corbishley wrote: >I'd like to completely replace the hydraulic fluid in the steering system. > >Any tips, tricks, pitfalls, BTDTs in words of one syllable would be >appreciated. > >TIA > >John Corbs > > > From njconn at email.msn.com Tue Oct 3 20:16:11 2000 From: njconn at email.msn.com (Jon Linkov) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: An Audi site you might like Message-ID: This was given to me by my boss, who used to work for Audi. Not sure if everyone knows about it, but... http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/1f71ceb5/attachment.htm From 3quinns at ltol.com Tue Oct 3 17:13:19 2000 From: 3quinns at ltol.com (Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Adhesive removal Message-ID: Well I have messed up my car. A piece of the door molding was loose, I peaked under it and saw it was only held on by adhesive, I imagine much like the emblems. I went in the house and looked through pictures of European models which seem not to have any molding at all, or very little. So I pulled the loose one off, and then spent the next hour trying to get the adhesive tape off, what a mess! Does someone know what to do? If I have to, I will reinstall the molding, but I will still need to get the old tape off first. Help. Pat '95 90q Lake Tahoe, CA From gatorojo at earthlink.net Tue Oct 3 19:24:39 2000 From: gatorojo at earthlink.net (Unka Bart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: New to the list Message-ID: Good day to you, Bryan, ol' rutabaga, > -----Original Message----- > From: Bryan Rodgers [SMTP:brodgers@ofdc.on.ca] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 2:57 PM > To: Quattro@Audifans. Com (E-mail) > Subject: FW: > > if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... > > B Do forgive yer kindly ol' Unka Bart for evesdropping, but I couldn't help overhearing your plaintive whin... er, cry. Do allow me to set the record straight, once and for all. Watch carefully now, (Look, nothin' up my sleeve...) here is the definitive answer to your question. No. The list is full of nice, knowledgable, friendly and *very* helpful people who own and love Audis; some of whom own or love (or both) other marques as well. But one thing that the list has a very definite paucity of, is a-holes. I can assure you unequivocally that the list is not *full* of a-holes. There's me, of course. And now, you, naturally; that goes without saying. But, alas, that number, small as it assuredly is, is really quite sufficient to fully meet Q-list requirements in that department. And now that you have finally arrived, there are no longer any open vacancies in that department. But why, might I politely enquire, do you ask? Did you have a fellow asshole that you wanted to invite to enjoy the benefits of the list? We'd be happy to have your friend, but regrettably, due to the fact that we currently have no vacancies in that department, either you, or your friend, will have to fill one of the many "Good Guy Regular Lister" vacancies. I know it's a tough decision to make, but there you have it. Either you, or s/he has got to straighten up and fly right. And frankly, and please don't take offense at this, Bryon, ol' Kumquat, I simply do not believe you have what it takes to be a *real* a-hole, over the long haul. Might yer kindly ol' unka Bart suggest that you take one of those other vacancies, and leave that a-hole slot for someone better qualified, in that department? And thank you for asking, it's always a treat to do something nice for a fellow lister! Yer Kindly ol' Unka Bart Designated List A-hole (owned a bunch of cars, just too old to be able to remember 'em...) From mx at snet.net Tue Oct 3 17:28:15 2000 From: mx at snet.net (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: An Audi site you might like References: Message-ID: <39DA6B8F.D05829A8@snet.net> Scott Mockry's site. Its a staple here on the list :) Bob Jon Linkov wrote: > > This was given to me by my boss, who used to work for Audi. Not sure > if everyone knows about it, but... > > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/0a70e24d/attachment.htm From lindgre at online.no Wed Oct 4 02:29:34 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Homebrew VW truck! References: Message-ID: <39DA6BDE.697C429B@online.no> Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > Now VW and Skoda > now has a common pickup truck design based on the polo. The VW/Skoda pickup is not based on the Polo, rather the old Skoda Favorit pickup. The delivery van type (VW Caddy and Seat Inca) is not based on the Polo either, rather the Seat Ibiza/Cordoba. They share all sheetmetal from the b-pillar forward. The VW Taro was nothing else but a Toyo Hilux with VW badges, the story on why VW offered this model is that Toyo was looking for a partner that could build the Hilux locally for the Euro market. VW agreed to build the Toyota in it's Hannover Transporter plant, if they could sell VW badged models to fill the gap betweeen the Caddy and Transporter pickup. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From Jokeree at aol.com Tue Oct 3 20:32:04 2000 From: Jokeree at aol.com (Jokeree@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FS: audi 4000 *factory rear wing* Message-ID: <39.ae69448.270bc674@aol.com> Saw this on yahoo classifieds for $30. No affiliation, just thought someone might be interested. http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/40276938 Dave Farrer '91 200 turbo From lindgre at online.no Wed Oct 4 02:39:33 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Some 4kq related questions References: <001c01c02d60$e82c46a0$d97afea9@noone> <39DA1F0C.7D09A1AA@mestek.com> Message-ID: <39DA6E35.A75E1FDD@online.no> "Theron J. Bliss" wrote: > Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm sure you all will. : ), but isn't the > Quantum (Passat) more like a 1983 and older 5000 then the 4000? No, it's the same as the 4k. Pop the hood on them both, and you'd hardly tell the difference. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From ricksiev at erols.com Tue Oct 3 20:32:27 2000 From: ricksiev at erols.com (ricksiev) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq Message-ID: <00aa01c02d92$7ab91940$b3f4a4d8@phred> Well I've tried the professionals, now I will try the best. 1989 200TQ, 168k, WAUGC5442KN098256 - 3rd owner The Audi is in pretty good shape, upkeep, records etc. No great problems in the past (except there is always something to fix). Problem: On warm days (75 and above) after about a 15 min drive (or longer and sometimes shorter) the car will not start until it has rested appox 22.5 mins (on Tuesdays it is more like 27.5 mins) preferably with its hood open. This has been going on all summer and is driving me batty. I have learned to add an additional 20+ mins to each of my sales calls ... non chargeable. I became impatient with it one day in August and turned the garden hose on the engine .... and it started right up .... just can not take a hose with me around town. It runs fine when it runs, and I hope to own it for another 168k miles. SO .... do you have any ideas, any BTDTs. TIA Rick in DC -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001003/dcc27bfc/attachment.htm From gatorojo at earthlink.net Tue Oct 3 19:44:36 2000 From: gatorojo at earthlink.net (Unka Bart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Sorry, There are no vacancies for the position for which you recently applied Message-ID: Dear Konstantin, You recently replied to (one assumes) a message on the digest, but alas, in a bold stroke of non-editing, your response contained the *entire* digest. all 23 threaded messages, some quoting every message in the original thread going all the way back to the original, written sometime shortly following the fall of Athens and the subsequent rise of Rome. This is simply not done, Konstantine, ol' rutabaga. NO, no; simply *not* done! Tut, tut, lad; and bad show, to boot. We shall assume (in the name of Charity) that you did not deliberately *intend* to appear as (such) a clueless dweeb; and that you were merely cleaning you keyboard, when it went off, unexpectedly. But do be a good fellow, and see that it doesn't happen again... Which reminds me of my cousin, Father Fitzgerald; who once confided to his confessor, that he'd kissed a nun. "As long as it's only once," the old priest sternly rebuked him, "you can be forgiven. But DON"T get into the habit!" Words to live by, Konstantine, ol' Kumquat, wouldn't you say...? Yer Kindly ol' Unka Bart From donohue at netconnx.net Tue Oct 3 20:50:48 2000 From: donohue at netconnx.net (Thomas J. Donohue, Jr.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Adhesive removal References: Message-ID: <39DA70D7.9F2F445@netconnx.net> Hi all...the most reliable and environmentally friendly stuff that I have used is "Goo Gone." My wife has a resale shop and is always dealing with masking tape that has been on glass for 40 years, crayon, scotch tape, crayon marks, stickers, etc, etc. Should be able to find it in most hardware stores or WalMart. Made by Magic American Corporation in Cleveland. Phone number on the label is 1-800-321-6330 if you can't find some locally. It doesn't mar finishes and comes right off with the goo it removes. Let me know how it works out if you try it. Regards, Tom Donohue "Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn" wrote: > Well I have messed up my car. A piece of the door molding was loose, I > peaked under it and saw it was only held on by adhesive, I imagine much like > the emblems. I went in the house and looked through pictures of European > models which seem not to have any molding at all, or very little. > So I pulled the loose one off, and then spent the next hour trying to get > the adhesive tape off, what a mess! Does someone know what to do? If I have > to, I will reinstall the molding, but I will still need to get the old tape > off first. Help. > Pat > '95 90q > Lake Tahoe, CA From Audi_80 at email.msn.com Tue Oct 3 21:17:53 2000 From: Audi_80 at email.msn.com (Alexander van Gerbig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: 1.8T in 90Q References: <79.a5d7c88.270b4e23@aol.com> <39DA656A.98DA378E@online.no> Message-ID: <005f01c02d98$8bb8d900$0101fea9@99e6s> I am almost 100% certain a 1.8T will bolt right up to a B4 5 speed tranny. Audi stuff is very modular. I know the fellow in Germany who has the insane RS 80 1.8T and he has a B4 5 speed tranny bolted to the 1.8T, though his transmission is filled with an S2 diff and VW Motorsports gearing. Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 The Audi 80 Pages----------------- http://surf.to/the80pages.com North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 From caprio at flash.net Tue Oct 3 20:16:38 2000 From: caprio at flash.net (Matthew Caprio) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Original Glovebox Manual, 1988, non T Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20001003191638.00ac35a0@pop.flash.net> Does someone have the original Audi glovebox manual for an 88 5k NON TURBO, and a scanner? I need pages 39 and 40 for reference, and mine are gone... It turns out the turbo manual was different.. MUCH APPRECIATED. Please send the scanned images to my other address (mcaprio@flash.net). Thanks sincerely! Matt Caprio Austin, TX 88 5ksq ---- 88 5ksq Matthew Caprio Austin, TX From turbo_quattro at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 18:35:25 2000 From: turbo_quattro at hotmail.com (Nik Brkic) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Campbell-Nelson VW in WA Message-ID: Does anybody know if Campbell-Nelson Volkswagen in Edmonds WA has a website? I hear they have a huge inventory of used Audi and VW parts, I want to check their inventory to see if they have an ignition control unit for my '89 100. The price for a new one from the dealer has too many zeros in it. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From Mlynch4kq at aol.com Tue Oct 3 21:39:38 2000 From: Mlynch4kq at aol.com (Mlynch4kq@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Bentley Manual For a 4000CS quattro(CoupeGT and Ur Quattro) Message-ID: <65.a7c9b36.270bd64a@aol.com> I have a Bentley manual for my 4kq that I no longer need. I am willing to part with it for $70.00 + shipping. I think they retail for about $120.00. I also have a Audi/Bose stereo head unit from my 1991 200. I'll sell it for $40.00 plus shipping. I don't have the codes but I think you can get them from the dealer. Thanks. Michael Lynch 91 200 20vtq From JordanVw at aol.com Tue Oct 3 21:40:28 2000 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FS: audi 4000 *factory rear wing* ALSO FITS TYPE 44 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/3/00 7:37:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Jokeree@aol.com writes: << Saw this on yahoo classifieds for $30. No affiliation, just thought someone might be interested. http://page.auctions.yahoo.com/auction/40276938 Dave Farrer '91 200 turbo >> fyi people, this will fit a type44 also.. (5000, 100, 200) for pics of a '86 4k spoiler on a '86 5kTQ, go to: http://www.enter.net/~bloss/vw/turner/ chris From eddymattice at hotmail.com Tue Oct 3 21:50:10 2000 From: eddymattice at hotmail.com (Eddy Mattice) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: '86 CGT oxy sensor Message-ID: A good thought but in the cgt o2 is in the manifold right before the downpipe. I personally do not believe a heated o2 would make any difference in this application. Computers are the exact same and that 2 pin plug in the same insulation as the signal wire for th o2 is the heating element. This is only necessary in the 4kq as the o2 is mounted in the cat. Eddy 86 4kq 86 cgt 85 cgt (need anything) _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From JordanVw at aol.com Tue Oct 3 21:56:47 2000 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: WTB: passat 6cyl wagon or sedan (NAC) Message-ID: sorry for the Non Audi content, but im looking for a passat GLX sedan or wagon, with the VR6..or V6. oh.. MUST be automatic, and under 70k miles preferred. and no gold painted cars :<) i know, picky, picky :<) pls p-mail me if you have any leads, or know of one in your area for sale. im willing to travel for the right car. TIA for any leads- chris From Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com Tue Oct 3 21:16:23 2000 From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com (Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: disabling autocheck bulb-out indicator Message-ID: <00629794.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> On Tue, 03 Oct 2000, Steve Barber wrote: >I'll be doing the relay thing to the Audi and want to make >sure I disable the autocheck indicator at the same time. I found three entries in my archive. The last one is the one I used successfully: (1) Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2000 21:06:50 -0800 (PST From: Ti Kan The unit in question is located in the auxillary relay panel, under > the dash. Middle row, second from the right, looks like a standard > Hella relay. It is not. It's is a logic controller, P/N 443 919 > 469B, built around a single chip. The chip listens to the current > that flows through two very low reference resistors, comprised out > of two 15mm wires no less than 1mm in dia, probably Ag (they are > silver colour and have a very low resistance). The circuit listens > to the impedances of the low beams filaments and throws a red flag > (6v on terminal "K", goes to a thin grey wire, that is connected to > the kompooter) if either of two conditions are met: > 1. At least one filament is blown (R=infinity) or > 2. R of one filament significantly differs from R of another one. Igor made an elegant fix by using a non-functional relay which fit the hole, and by hardwiring it internally, then plugging it in. Pretty, but I didn't have such a spare relay body.... I did it the easy way by pulling the logic controller and making two short (3") jumper cables of 14-ga. wire, with a male spade bit (blue code) on each end. I then inserted the spade bits into the relay connections to jumper both headlight circuits. NOTE: You cannot defeat the warning just by pulling the logic controller and leaving it out of the circuit. If you do this, the low beams **do not** come on - only the "city lights". The high beams do work, however. Igor's directions tell you where to jumper: > For now I can suggest my non-destructive method. You want to shunt > those calibrated reference wires. You need to connect 56bR to 56bR1 > and connect 56bL to 56bL1. This is VERY easy to do, as the pins on the logic controller are labeled exactly as Igor says. Just pull the controller and CAREFULLY make a diagram of the contacts on the relay panel (which is a mirror image of the relay - so don't screw it up...) and you will know exactly which connections to jumper. Double-check this before inserting the jumpers - it's easy to screw up!! Hope this non-detructive method helps others turn off that #%&&*$ headlight warning. HTH, Eric R. Kissell 1989 200q Avant, needs 1.8 bar upgrade 1986 5000cstq, 1.8 bar, k24, Fuchs at next tire change 1987 VW GTI 16v, 1984cc, Euro Intake Camshaft, Techtonics SS exhaust, etc. From Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com Tue Oct 3 21:29:17 2000 From: Eric_R_Kissell at email.whirlpool.com (Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq Message-ID: <0062987C.C21405@email.whirlpool.com> On Tue, 3 Oct 2000, "ricksiev" wrote: >On warm days (75 and above) after about a 15 min drive (or longer and = >sometimes shorter) the car will not start until it has rested appox 22.5 = >mins (on Tuesdays it is more like 27.5 mins) preferably with its hood = >open. Is the injector cooling fan functioning? Is the plastic injector cooling fan shroud that passes from the injector cooling fan over the valve cover in good repair? It is my understanding that the injector cooling fan is designed to activate based on a thermoswitch input to blow cool air over the injectors and prevent vapor lock. Eric R. Kissell 1989 200q Avant, needs 1.8 bar upgrade 1986 5000cstq, 1.8 bar, k24, Fuchs at next tire change 1987 VW GTI 16v, 1984cc, Euro Intake Camshaft, Techtonics SS exhaust, etc. From munrof at isys.ca Tue Oct 3 22:41:09 2000 From: munrof at isys.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq References: <00aa01c02d92$7ab91940$b3f4a4d8@phred> Message-ID: <021e01c02da4$2c46d560$6e51dfd8@munrof> Hi Rick; Is your injector cooling fan working? This fan blows air through the metal plenum which sits over the valve cover to cool the injectors when underhood temperatures get high. It is activated by a thermoswitch. It should come on within a few minutes of stopping the car on a hot day. HTH Fred Munro '94 S4 112k km ----- Original Message ----- From: "ricksiev" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:32 PM Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq Well I've tried the professionals, now I will try the best. 1989 200TQ, 168k, WAUGC5442KN098256 - 3rd owner The Audi is in pretty good shape, upkeep, records etc. No great problems in the past (except there is always something to fix). Problem: On warm days (75 and above) after about a 15 min drive (or longer and sometimes shorter) the car will not start until it has rested appox 22.5 mins (on Tuesdays it is more like 27.5 mins) preferably with its hood open. This has been going on all summer and is driving me batty. I have learned to add an additional 20+ mins to each of my sales calls ... non chargeable. I became impatient with it one day in August and turned the garden hose on the engine .... and it started right up .... just can not take a hose with me around town. It runs fine when it runs, and I hope to own it for another 168k miles. SO .... do you have any ideas, any BTDTs. TIA Rick in DC From Mlynch4kq at aol.com Tue Oct 3 22:42:41 2000 From: Mlynch4kq at aol.com (Mlynch4kq@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FS 1986 4000cs quattro Message-ID: <29.af40545.270be511@aol.com> I hate to do it, but dust has been collecting on my beloved 4kq, so its time to pass it on so someone else can enjoy it. Here are the details: 1986 4000cs quattro 168,000 $3,500. Charcoal black with gray interior. No accidents. never been smoked in. Interior is very clean. No rips or holes. 2nd owner. Mobil 1 every 3,000 miles. K+N air filter. H+R springs and Boge turbo gas inserts. New brake pads, clutch slave, master cylinder, water pump, timing belt, crank, and cam seals. Extra set of Bridgestone Blizzak MZ-01 snow tires with lots of tread. Runs great and is a daily driver. I would love to keep this car, but I just bought a 200 20v turbo and would like some extra funds for modifications. The car is located in Jackson, WY. Contact Michael at: mpl20020vtq@aol.com or (307)734-7624 From kzildjian at home.com Tue Oct 3 22:43:05 2000 From: kzildjian at home.com (kzildjian@home.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: FW: New to the list References: Message-ID: <39DA8B29.C2B6BFC2@home.com> Hello All, I just sold my 175,000 Mile 1988 90Q for $5000. It has a book value of 1/2 of that. The person that bought it was very happy. $1800 Canadian is not bad for an Audi 4000 if the body is perfect and the motor runs strong. I say "GOOD LUCK" with it, and enjoy it to the fullest. It is a fun car. Tim Bryan Rodgers wrote: > > if this list is full of 'a-holes'... ...I don't know why I bothered... > > B > > -----Original Message----- > From: Andrew Pawlisz [mailto:APawlisz@cadmusgroup.com] > Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 1:31 PM > To: Bryan Rodgers > Subject: Re: New to the list > > I am sorry to hear that becuase I think that you paid way too much for that > car, > especially for a non-quattro model. These cars can be gotten for $500.0 USD > (or > $700 CDN). Look for them on the net and check the prices for yourself. A > couple > weeks, Auto Trader had one for sale at $800 CDN in Ottawa region. $800 vs $ > 1800 > is a huge price difference. A 14, almost 15-year old car should not cost > more > than $1000 becuase you will be expected to feed it more $$$ on regular > basis. > Also, AUDI parts in Canada are very expensive and few and far between, > unlike VW > pieces. Consider yourself warned. > > Andrew > 88 5ksq > Ottawa, ON > > Bryan Rodgers wrote: > > > Hey, I'm new to the Quattro list, and just wanted to say hello to > everyone. > > > > I just purchased a 1986 Audi 4000s, from the original owner with 230k for > > $1800cdn. The body's in fantastic shape, and the motor is very strong. > There > > were a few things that needed attention, like the lower control arm > bushings > > and a bunch of 'power' items that stopped working(a little persistence and > a > > soldering iron took care of that!), but I'm loving the car. > > > > I'm a certified VW fanatic, so purchasing an Audi wasn't that far off ;) > > > > I guess with age comes the need for a little 'class'. I think I've found > it. > > Although it's no A4 1.8T, it's still a very solid automobile(door that go > > 'thunk'!), and the power items are nice, my 27 year old frame is starting > to > > see some mileage(too many days at the track...heh heh heh);) > > > > I look forward to input I may need form time to time, so please be patient > > with me. > > > > Thanks for the bandwidth. > > > > Peace, > > B > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -- > > Cars previously owned: > > -1990 Corrado G60 ('mostly' stock) > > -1986 Golf GTI (my favorite of the bunch, everything that could be done to > > it, was!) > > -1979 Rabbit GTI (modified, and fun, fun, fun!) > > -1990 Golf GL ('fairy' stock, my mom now drive it..Eibach suspension and > > all) > > -1983 Honda Station Wagon (OUCH! ...it was free, but never again!) > > -1976 VW Panel Van > > -1972 VW Bus > > -1969 VW Camper -- Tim Meritzis TCM Productions 1990 Audi CQ 20V 1984 Subaru Brat D/L (732) 241-2931 From Kwattro at aol.com Tue Oct 3 22:56:06 2000 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Petit LeMans Message-ID: In a message dated 00-10-03 09:49:34 EDT, you write: << hey changed TWO rearends at Lemans faster than BMW was able to repair their rear wing at Road Atlanta. If others are unwilling or unable to match their innovations, they are destined to fail. >> I think you're comparing apples and oranges here - the BMW team had to do bodywork, not unbolt one section of engine and bolt another up to it. Granted the Audi feat was impressive, but the BMW team's ordeal was the result of an accident, not a mechanical failure. It would be shortsighted to call them slow - in reality, we have little or no idea what they were doing to the car, and they still replaced the badly damaged section (unlike the Audi team, which did not repair a broken section of car, seriously affecting its handleing characteristics...) in a reasonable, if not quick, amount of time. I think a reasonable comparison to the quickness of the Audi swap would be to that of the Corvette C-5R team at Daytona, when they had the heads off the car for 20 or more minutes. Still quick, but no candle to the Audisport work. Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From StevieK1 at aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:08:38 2000 From: StevieK1 at aol.com (StevieK1@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: V8 Speed limited: If you get a ticket read this! Message-ID: <96.a689e56.270beb26@aol.com> In a message dated 10/03/2000 9:50:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rautenberg@mediaone.net writes: << As for me, I just got a speeding ticket (go figure), so I'm kinda takin it easy. >> Guys, you may want to check out this technique if you get a ticket. I haven't tried it myself, but it comes from a reliable source. If You Get A. Traffic Ticket, This has been tried and it works..... I tried to send this to everyone I know. I know that for a fact this works so if you ever get in this situation, you have an out. We discovered that this procedure works in every state. Read it and try it, you have nothing to lose but the points on your license. This is how it works: If you get a speeding ticket or went through a red light or whatever the case may be, and you are going to get points on your license, then there is a method to ensure that you DO NOT get any points. When you get your fine, send in the check to pay for it and if the fine is say, $79, then make the check out for $82 or some small amount over the fine. The system will then have to send you back a check for the difference, but here is the trick! ***DO NOT CASH THE REFUND CHECK!!!*** Throw it away!! Points are not assessed to your license until all financial transactions are complete. If you do not cash the check, then the transactions are NOT complete. However, the system has gotten its money and is happy and will not bother you any more. This information came to our attention from a very reliable computer company that sets up the standard database used by each states' DMV. Varoom!>> Steve K. 1990 V8Q 1990 100 1997 Chevy Suburban Rockville, MD From mchang at ee.washington.edu Tue Oct 3 20:17:53 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: V8 Speed limited: If you get a ticket read this! In-Reply-To: <96.a689e56.270beb26@aol.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 3 Oct 2000 StevieK1@aol.com wrote: > If You Get A. Traffic Ticket, This has been tried and it works..... > ***DO NOT CASH THE REFUND CHECK!!!*** Urban legend: 1, Reality: 0. -- Hangover, n.: The burden of proof. From Kwattro at aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:19:48 2000 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: To the original new to list poster, 4k prices. Message-ID: <16.30ff97f.270bedc4@aol.com> Hey "B" : I don't think you paid too much if you're happy. I paid USD 1500 for my first coupe GT, and it needed work. After dumping a bunch of money into it, I sold it for 2100 because it was an auto and I couldn't swap the 5 speed from the 400$ wrecked coupe I had bought. I ended up buying a second Coupe. It had 192K, was in reasonable to ok shape, needed some minor attention, and paid 1200 (asking price was 1900$). I was happy. People said I was nuts. The car is really coming together now (sport quattro 20v track car.....mmmmm), and I'm still happy (car is quickly going to exceed 10,000$ soon, after about 2 years.). However, I can't sell my 120K 4000CSQ for 4000$, even though that's the going rate for a very nice quattro, and the car is really great. Just goes to show you....price is only determined by how you end up feeling. Lots of luck to you and the car, and I hope we can help you out. Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com 1986 4000CSQ (FS - 4K$) 1986 Coupe GT (too much to list, but getting faster...) From t44tq at bellatlantic.net Tue Oct 3 23:25:30 2000 From: t44tq at bellatlantic.net (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: V8 Speed limited: If you get a ticket read this! In-Reply-To: <96.a689e56.270beb26@aol.com> Message-ID: <001101c02daa$5db7f100$d97afea9@noone> Sorry, This does not work. They have closed this loophole. Taka From Thefredx at aol.com Tue Oct 3 23:20:57 2000 From: Thefredx at aol.com (Thefredx@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: 5ktq no charge Message-ID: <2b.b8410ee.270bee09@aol.com> as several of you suggested, the alt light does not come on w/key. next question(since i don't have a bentley for this car yet)... how do i get to this bulb?? fred From hahnmgh63 at earthlink.net Tue Oct 3 20:33:28 2000 From: hahnmgh63 at earthlink.net (Mark Hahn) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: 5KSQ ABS sensor wanted Message-ID: <002c01c02dab$7bb83060$5eef85ce@satellite> I'm looking for the right front ABS sensor new or used and the long wiring harness that is with it for a '87 or there about 5000S Quattro. I imagine anything a little newer or older with ABS will be the same. Thanks, MGH From sjensen at mindspring.com Tue Oct 3 23:32:37 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: Capscrew fun-disassembling a quattro References: <20001003141415.25318.qmail@web4401.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00ef01c02dab$5d6f32c0$110345cf@default> > The capscrews that hold the driveshaft CV to the rear > drive input flange are installed with Loctite Red. > Yeow! One must have taken 400 ft. lbs. to break > loose! That d*mn monkey lad must have gotten around, he did the same thing on the rear driveshaft/tranny output flange on my parts car! When I sold the tranny, I gave the new owner the remains of the allen head (with a little Loctite Red on the mangled remains) and told him that it was a five hour bolt. It took me five hours of stretching, straining, cursing, spraying (with PB penetrant) and finally filing and Vise-gripping to get that sucker out. They should have an IQ test before selling that stuff, sheesh! Rantification off. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq (the shiftless one) 87 5kcstqw (the startless w/o some help one) From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Tue Oct 3 20:50:01 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:13 2003 Subject: talking about weird problems.... References: <39DA2D85.2A87F710@mestek.com> Message-ID: <014101c02dad$cd187c60$0201a8c0@pnix.net> > Speaking of weird problems, my gas gauge (which at present decided it doesn't want to > work), was acting kinda funky one night. As I was driving home, it would slowly fall > to E (about a 10 second timing), then rapidly rise to full, then slowly descend to E > again, and quickly rise to full... It did this over and over again for about 20 > minutes, until I shut the car off. Any ideas? Now the gauge just doesn't work at all. ... on the V8 the instrument cluster has OBD built in ... check: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ecufv8.html#instout ... run the test that verifies the function of the fuel gauge ... if the test fails it is the gauge ... if the test passes it is in the connection to the sender or the sender itself. One thing that may indeed be true is that it is a interconnect on the IC itself ... HTH! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Wed Oct 4 00:29:03 2000 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: Ignition Control unit for 89 100 [NAC] Message-ID: <3d.1b46b3f.270bfe00@aol.com> Sorry for the WOB I accidentally erased an Email from someone who needed an ignition module for the above vehicle.. I might have one please repond. Thanks, Scott From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Oct 4 00:37:49 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq In-Reply-To: <021e01c02da4$2c46d560$6e51dfd8@munrof> References: <00aa01c02d92$7ab91940$b3f4a4d8@phred> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001003233502.00aa1a50@traverse.com> METAL plenum? Both my 5Kt's have PLASTIC plenums that are all broken up and plastic hosing that's been wrapped and rewrapped in the shadetree miracle fixit material ? sometimes referred to as Duct Tape. At 09:41 PM 10/03/2000 -0400, Fred Munro wrote: >Hi Rick; > >Is your injector cooling fan working? This fan blows air through the metal >plenum which sits over the valve cover to cool the injectors when underhood >temperatures get high. It is activated by a thermoswitch. It should come on >within a few minutes of stopping the car on a hot day. > >HTH > >Fred Munro >'94 S4 112k km > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "ricksiev" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:32 PM >Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq > > >Well I've tried the professionals, now I will try the best. > >1989 200TQ, 168k, WAUGC5442KN098256 - 3rd owner > >The Audi is in pretty good shape, upkeep, records etc. No great problems in >the past (except there is always something to fix). > >Problem: >On warm days (75 and above) after about a 15 min drive (or longer and >sometimes shorter) the car will not start until it has rested appox 22.5 >mins (on Tuesdays it is more like 27.5 mins) preferably with its hood open. >This has been going on all summer and is driving me batty. I have learned to >add an additional 20+ mins to each of my sales calls ... non chargeable. > >I became impatient with it one day in August and turned the garden hose on >the engine .... and it started right up .... just can not take a hose with >me around town. > >It runs fine when it runs, and I hope to own it for another 168k miles. > >SO .... do you have any ideas, any BTDTs. > >TIA >Rick in DC > > > > > > > > From nathan.stuart at maine.edu Wed Oct 4 00:53:51 2000 From: nathan.stuart at maine.edu (Nate Stuart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq References: <00aa01c02d92$7ab91940$b3f4a4d8@phred> Message-ID: <007c01c02db6$b6399a20$0200a8c0@ns.pivot.net> Did you pull the fault codes!??! I'll wager it's the Ignition Timing Reference Sensor (code 2132, I think....) BTDT x2, one '87 5kcstq, one '89 200tq. Exact same symptoms. Replaced the sensor and they fired right up hot or cold. Later! -Nate '86 4kcs(soon to be t)q www.mswanson.com/~nstuart '87 5kcstq (donor, need parts!?) www.mswanson.com/~nstuart/audisale.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "ricksiev" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:32 PM Subject: vapor lock ? 89 200tq Well I've tried the professionals, now I will try the best. 1989 200TQ, 168k, WAUGC5442KN098256 - 3rd owner The Audi is in pretty good shape, upkeep, records etc. No great problems in the past (except there is always something to fix). Problem: On warm days (75 and above) after about a 15 min drive (or longer and sometimes shorter) the car will not start until it has rested appox 22.5 mins (on Tuesdays it is more like 27.5 mins) preferably with its hood open. This has been going on all summer and is driving me batty. I have learned to add an additional 20+ mins to each of my sales calls ... non chargeable. I became impatient with it one day in August and turned the garden hose on the engine .... and it started right up .... just can not take a hose with me around town. It runs fine when it runs, and I hope to own it for another 168k miles. SO .... do you have any ideas, any BTDTs. TIA Rick in DC From l.leung at juno.com Wed Oct 4 01:05:22 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: tire thread (yet again) Message-ID: <388001764.970632324171.JavaMail.root@web649-wra> My personal opinion (snowbelter) of D60's in the snow was pretty poor. Managed to slide and spin (not drivetrain, 'twas a 4KQ, entire car) whereas my Pacemark snows would have simply tracked right on through. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: Elliott Potter To: Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com Sent: October 3, 2000 7:47:01 PM GMT Subject: Re: tire thread (yet again) Eric_R_Kissell@email.whirlpool.com wrote: > > On 10/3/2000 Elliott Potter responded: > >I had a set of RE930's for a while -- absolutely hated them. > >They hydroplaned at about 40 mph in 1" of water, spun easily > >on dry flat surfaces, and couldn't grip on painted lines at all. > > Interesting. On what car did you have these Bridgestones? 1993 90CS (fwd, auto transmission). > I will probably try Dunlop SP5000 tires next, unless I hear something > bad about them. On the other hand, I may decide to go the route of three > season tires plus a set of winter tires like I did when I lived in > Michigan. I need to consider the pros and cons of my tire options again > now that I live in the occasional ice belt of Southern Indiana rather > than the continual snow belt of Western Michigan. The D60's gripped fairly well in the minor bit of ice we got last winter here in Atlanta. I don't know how they would do in real bad stuff though. -- Elliott From fast928 at prodigy.net Wed Oct 4 00:10:16 2000 From: fast928 at prodigy.net (Andrew Lundy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: Campbell-Nelson VW in WA References: Message-ID: <007f01c02db9$01118920$9ecffcd1@andrewlu> Last time I was at their site they didn't list their inventory. You just filled out a parts request form and they get back to you!! Maybe they changed it!!! Here it is: http://www.findusedparts.com/ Good Luck!!! --- Andrew Lundy fast928@prodigy.net 90 80Q 91 90 95 90Q ----- Original Message ----- From: "Nik Brkic" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 7:35 PM Subject: Campbell-Nelson VW in WA > Does anybody know if Campbell-Nelson Volkswagen in Edmonds WA has a > website? I hear they have a huge inventory of used Audi and VW parts, I want > to check their inventory to see if they have an ignition control unit for my > '89 100. The price for a new one from the dealer has too many zeros in it. > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > From l.leung at juno.com Wed Oct 4 01:20:19 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: Tire Wheel Combo Message-ID: <383313707.970633221225.JavaMail.root@web315-wra.mail.com> I have the same size configuration on my '89 200Q and my tie rod clearance is more like 0.5 mm (seriously, just enough space to feed in a credit card), but it has never rubbed. Same clearance as Rob's in back. Without spacers in front (or less offset than 45 mm) there is no way for a wider 16 to fit. Since I know of other listers whom have successfully put 225/50-15's on their type 44's, (and since I know there were no clearance issues with stock 205/60-15s) I think the tight tie rod end clearance issue is due to WHERE the widest part of the tire is in relation to the axle. As you go up in plus sizing, the closer it seems to get to the tie rod end. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: "Beatty, Robert" To: 'Theron J. Bliss' , Nik Brkic , Quattro@audifans.com Sent: October 3, 2000 12:48:15 PM GMT Subject: RE: Tire Wheel Combo I have an 87 5ktq with the A6 16" wheels and 205/55/16 tires on it and NO body mods. I have about 3 mm of space between the front tires and the tie rod ends and about 8-10mm between the rear tires and the body... I havent seen 17" before without body mods not sure if it will work, just be advised about the tire to tie rod clearance. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: Theron J. Bliss [SMTP:tbliss@mestek.com] > > You shouldn't have any problems fitting 17". If I could do it on my golf, > you > definately can on the 5k. Probably like a 225/40-17, or a 215/45-17 would > work > great. Just double check your offset, but if the rims have the wrong > offset, > spacers can be safely used. > > I hope this helps. I also have a tire size conversion chart in xls > (Excel) > format if you want to properly plus size tires. It gives you circumfrence > and > RPM divergence. > > Theron J. Bliss > 1990 V8 Quattro > > > > Nik Brkic wrote: > > > What is the biggest tire wheel combo that I can fit on a stock bodied > '86 > > 5KTQ? how wide can I go with out getting too personal with the tie rod? > I > > want to fit a 17" rim with at least a 215/40 or 45/ZR17 and am willing > to do > > some body work to make this combination work. TIA > > > >.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From l.leung at juno.com Wed Oct 4 01:24:15 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Re: Slotted Rotors Message-ID: <387380119.970633455478.JavaMail.root@web124-wra.mail.com> Agreed, slotting or cross drilling is to relieve pad outgassing. However, the water issues seemed interesting, to say the least. And the slots/holes will also aid in water removal, no matter how little of it would be there on a hard driving car. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: Frank Amoroso To: s4audinut@aol.com, l.leung@juno.com, shields@msrl.com, igor@s-cars.org Sent: October 3, 2000 10:50:14 AM GMT Subject: Re: [s-cars] Re: Slotted Rotors Yep, to prevent pad outgassing from interfering with pad to rotor contact. An added benefit on cross drilled rotors in which the drilling does not vent to atmospere the slots allow for the gasses to, yet again, escape and help avoid a pulsating sensation that can be felt through the pedal. Frank-- --- s4audinut@aol.com wrote: > Please correct me if I am mistaken, but slots are on rotors to vent hot > gasses and promote a flat wear/friction surface; not provide a runoff gutter > for liquids. > Rod > > To unsubscribe, email: s-car-list-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From petergg at dimensional.com Tue Oct 3 23:35:54 2000 From: petergg at dimensional.com (Peter Golledge) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: Driveshafts References: <202F03744BDCD31194270000F803CA9E7C53C2@cxoexc2.cxo.dec.com> Message-ID: <39DAB3AA.D652FF9C@dimensional.com> "Kaklikian, Gary" wrote: > > Does anyone know of a source for rebuilt Quattro driveshafts, or even a shop > capable of balancing one? Any BTDT with replacing the CV's and center > U-joint, in particular on the 4k/5k? Every shop I found/called in CO would not touch an Audi driveshaft. Two places told me that my driveshaft "would never balance" after I had pulled it apart, naturally they were wrong.... :-) > I know Blaufergnugen sells the CV's and center U-joint, but how involved is > replacement of these parts? Also, why can't I find a driveline speciality > shop that has the equipment to balance the driveshaft assembly? > A complete rebuilt driveshaft (I assume balanced) is available from the > dealer for $$$. Are you sure that your driveshaft really needs to be balanced? A bad center bear or u-joint can really put out some vibration. I rebuilt my driveshaft (replaced u-joint, one CV and center support bearing) without a great deal of trouble. The biggest PITA was getting the yolk of the driveshaft. Use a punch to mark the orientation of the yolk on the shaft and the orientation of the yolks on each half of the driveshaft. Shop around for the CV joints, my local Audi dealer had them for a good price! > The Bentley also mentions an alignment tool for adjusting the driveshaft. No need, good idea to mark the original location though to ensure that the center support goes back where it was though. Cheers -- Peter Golledge 89 200TQ (Wagon + Sedan), 79 Porsche 930, 89 SAAB 900i From ameer at snet.net Wed Oct 4 02:10:02 2000 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:14 2003 Subject: control jet on turbo front hose?...84 5kT Message-ID: <5.0.0.25.0.20001004010532.009ed630@pop.snet.net> I had replaced my