From paul at heneghan.co.uk Sun Oct 1 02:34:05 2000 From: paul at heneghan.co.uk (Paul Heneghan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:07 2003 Subject: Help - front Dif is not unlocking In-Reply-To: <200009300219.WAA22459@audifans.com> Message-ID: > From: Penasack_Tim@emc.com > The front dif on my 86 4KQ is not unlocking but the rear locks > and unlocks. > If I put the car on 4 jack stands and run it - it usually unlocks. Haven't > tried it since my last spirited drive. On my 1984 80q (same car), the centre diff (you can't lock the front diff - I presume you mean the centre diff) has always been a bit unwilling to unlock than the rear diff. Probably something to do with the extra linkage that goes from the actuator on the rear diff to the locking lever on the centre diff. I remember once driving 20 miles on a motorway waiting for the centre diff to unlock and it never did. Ways to unlock it include: Spirited driving - it often unlocks as the revs drop when changing from 2nd to 3rd gear change (due to increased vacuum ?). Drive it in reverse for a couple of seconds Turn a corner. Once when all these techniques failed, I checked it out and found that although the linkage was OK, the rear diff mountings had totally disintegrated. Replacing those sorted out the diff locking problem. Paul From paul at heneghan.co.uk Sun Oct 1 02:34:07 2000 From: paul at heneghan.co.uk (Paul Heneghan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start In-Reply-To: <200009301603.MAA04065@audifans.com> Message-ID: > From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk > Then I switched the battery back, and the REAL problems > started. The car won't start (no spark) and the ECU > cnsistently stores 'coolant sensor'. Also the tachometer > jumps to 3500 revs as soon as the key is turned. Might not be related, but . . . I saw these symptoms once on a VW that I'd stored for a couple of years. Turned out to be a 12V battery with a couple of dead cells. Completely confused the tacho (read half scale all the time), indicator relay etc. I wouldn't think the computer would be too keen on low volts either! Paul From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 01:01:19 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Looking for Bob Myers References: <4.3.1.2.20000930103501.00bb1520@traverse.com> Message-ID: <39D6B70F.A9FAC9D4@worldnet.att.net> He's currently in Atlanta for the ALMS series - won't be back to the list until tomorrow eve at the earliest. Kneale Brownson wrote: > Try: rmyers@oak.total-web.net > > At 10:15 AM 09/30/2000 -0400, Adam P. Brodeur wrote: > > >Hello, > > > >I would like to get some information about having some window decals > >made up. Please contact me off list if possible. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Adam Brodeur > >84 4ksq > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From danz at voicenet.com Sun Oct 1 01:14:00 2000 From: danz at voicenet.com (Dan Z. Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor References: <20000930233005.28138.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <002f01c02b57$e04d8620$6ccffcd1@andrewlu> Message-ID: <39D6BA08.C15D2F19@voicenet.com> Andrew et al The passenger side O2 sensor removal is relatively easy. The driver side, well, what the &^%$ where they thinking? The trajectory of the sensor is right through the ABS unit. You will need a universal joint on the socket to get it out. Thanks for the socket size correction. 1/2" worked fine, but seemed just slightly loose. -DanZ Andrew Lundy wrote: > Hi Bill, > > I also was faced with this problem about four months ago!! I finally got it > out after cutting the wire and putting a 22mm(I think?) deepwell socket on > it!! First thing to do is switch to metric so you don't round it off any > worse!! > > Which side are you on?? I did the passengers side on mine. I was able to > put the 22mm deepwell socket on it and a few extension and get at it from > above the engine(without taking ANYTHING loose). I just put a breaker bar > on the extensions and with a bit of force it popped free!! You may be able > to do the drivers side the same but I'm not sure on that??? > > This was after spending about 3 days of soaking it in penetrating oil and > finally getting so pi##ed I broke down and cut the wire!! > > This is the best advice I can offer!!! > Good Luck!! > --- > Andrew Lundy > fast928@prodigy.net > 90 80Q > 91 90 > 95 90Q > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Magliocco" > To: > Cc: > Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 6:30 PM > Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor > > > Even using plenty of "blaster" pentrating oil, I have > > done a nice job of rounding the edges of the 7/8" nut > > (or metric equivalent) on one of the oxygen sensors on > > my new V6 toy. Was using one of those specially made > > deep "oxygen sensor" sockets that is partially cut > > away (where the wires go). > > > > Am afraid to cut the wires off the end and get a > > standard deep socket, because I may not succeed. > > > > Any ideas from the gallery? Cold engine or hot? > > Apply heat to the sensor...whatever? > > > > TIA, Bill > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! > > http://photos.yahoo.com/ > > > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro -- =========================================== Dan Z. Johnson, Editor The Mosin Nagant Webpage http://www.voicenet.com/~danz/MN/ From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 01:32:28 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: ALMS report Message-ID: <39D6BE5C.C26AD1A2@worldnet.att.net> Audi squeaks by with a 1-2 win, Panoz charging hard at the end for 2nd after the final yellow, number 77 throws a blocking move... In GTS, Corvette charges hard in the last 4 laps and overdives the Viper leader into a spinoff - Corvette goes 1,3. In 1000 miles of driving, the last 4 laps, the distance between the top 3 ccars in both classes was under 2 seconds! The evening was spent watching a Direct TV Speedvision feed on the side of the Rogers/Corell RV. BMW - #43 does a 360 the hard way early on when he catches air in a Mercedes Lemans manner and walks away. #42 damages the rear wing & suspension in the final 1/2 hour and takes himself outa contention in a seriously loooong pit stop. The qlist/QCUSA was very well represented with over 65 cars, only one of which was a V8 (Ed?...). A superb condition local 87.5 CGT arrived late - 130hp eng and rear disks - had never heard of the qlist... Most unusual older Audi - Paul Cassara's early 5Ktq in Sport colors with Jetta headlights. Nicest older Audi - a drop dead gorgeous tornado red 4000CSq, lowered. Several early Avants, one each 91 200 tqa and tqs, urS4s and S6s abounded, 6 tts, one tt roadster, coupla coupe qs including Erics 'runnin iron'. Most unusual non - Audi: the '61 35' Gatorojo custom coach brought by the kindly and erudite Unka Bart. A good time was had by all - except the poor 70# doe that narrowly avoided being hit TWICE by the SAME Porsche GT in the first 15 minutes of the race at the chicane. Rare to see a caution due to frantic wildlife... From gerard at poboxes.com Sun Oct 1 07:55:32 2000 From: gerard at poboxes.com (Gerard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1992 - 1995 Audi 500 SEL - Cape Town South Africa References: <0DB13FAA2C83D411A33800508B6BAA39168383@spdcexcs2.metropolitan.co.za> <39D5FB3D.D1A472DC@online.no> Message-ID: <39D6C3C4.CEF3E798@poboxes.com> Quite simple really. All type-44 cars were called the 500 here, as opposed to the 100/200/5000 and so on elsewhere. When the type-C4 came out it retained the designation of 500 until the universal name of A6 started. The type-44 was available in 5 levels: 400, 500, 500E, 500SE. Most with the 2.2 litre motor, some with an 1800 I think (not really sure with the 400). The c4 then offered the 2.8 V6 and the top model was the 500SEL, "L" probably for something silly like "luxury" or "limo". G. -- gerard@poboxes.com q-list info: 1989/90 200 (mac13a MC-1) From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:22 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: > That "3500 rpm" make me wonder if it isn't trying to spit out a trouble > code, the old fashioned way. The MAC05/MAC07 way, with the KG engine? It looks _just_ like that - the needle slewed straight to 3500 and sat there as steady as a rock. Had me digging out the old stuff, too. Then it stopped happening as abruptly as it started. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:26 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: >> Reassembled, tried the starter. Just the same as before. >> Tried again - started and purred l.ike a kitten. Drove it for 15 >> miles - cut out once. Tacho dropped to zero, even though >> the engine was still running. > Sounds to me like an ignition switch on its way out. BTDT. The coolant > code could be there if the power to the electronic thermoswitch failed. Good theory - especially since the 'lights/radio are on' warning buzzer has also changed its behaviour. > Also, don't forget to check the ground connections located below the > fuse panel. I've had two type 44s with loose grounding bolts which > caused all sorts of mayhem... Again, another good one. I found the manifold grounds loose and got all happy for a moment or two ... -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:31 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: brake pedal gets slushy when held down Message-ID: > When I keep the brake pedal depressed for 30 seconds > or so, it starts to give and slip towards the floor. > Letting it back up and pumpimg it once alleviates the > problem. is this the pump or air in the line or > something else? 86 coupe gt. Master cylinder. You are not very far away from complete brake failure. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:35 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 200q exhaust manifolds Message-ID: > so i new it would happen.....at 220k mi, the exhaust > manifold has cracked, so the question is who & what is > the best way to go for purchasing a replacement (high > performance)system. a) Change the right engine mount. b) Check the duct that's supposed to flood it with cooling air at speed. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:40 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: >>All European cars on the European market have only > one rear foglight, > err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights > '93 V6 80 quattro Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:59 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? Message-ID: > I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? They were standard after the 1985 model year and it's a very common retrofit here in the UK. The parts for a post-1985 car simply bolt up to an earlier car. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:38:08 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: '88 5kcstq in-tank issues Message-ID: > Anyway, I fixed it. Here's is a pic of what it looked like when I > found it. http://www.neta.com/~auditude/fuelpump.jpg > It's a high res pic. Since I bitch so much about the ones who get it wrong, balance requires me to comment on those who get it right. A URL and notification (and even a warning that the image is BIG) is just wonderful compared with the simple 'post the binary straight to the list' appraoch. Thanks to Ken and others who do it right - it's much appreciated by those who _PAY_ (throught the nose) for Internet access. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:54 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: > Depending upon the wattage of the bulb you use, you may be overloading > the wiring to the driver's side rear fog by splicing in the other > socket to have two rear fogs. Be aware, the concept of having only one > rear fog light (well explained in someone's, I unfortunately forgot > whoms, sorry, post) is a safety issue: Yes it is, and the post was probably mine. Running with two fog lights is illegal in many European countries. In the UK, it depends on the year of first registration - I think the legal requirement for a single light on the offside of the car is from 1 September 1993, though I'm not absolutely sure. The reason is that twin rear fogs mask the 'startle reflex' effect deliberately designed into brake lights. Rear sides are 5w in the UK, and brake lights 21w. Taking reflector designs into account - side (marker) lights have a wide spread, brake lights are focussed into more of a beam - the perceived brightness difference is 1:64 at the eye. The eye is a remarkably accomodating organ, but this difference is enough to 'startle' it and cause a reaction - even if the change occurs in peripheral vision. If both sides have rear fogs, the ratio between overall apparent luminance with and without the brake lights is reduced to 1:2 or 1:4 - not enough to generate a startle reflex in peripheral vision. Yes, you'll see the brake lights come on if you're looking directly at the back of the car. But if you just happen to glance away at the instruments you're dependent on that startle reflex. Also the law in the UK allows their use only when visibility is less than 50 metres and specifically forbids their use in rain. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:49 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Stuck oxygen sensor Message-ID: > Even using plenty of "blaster" penetrating oil, I have > done a nice job of rounding the edges of the 7/8" nut > (or metric equivalent) on one of the oxygen sensors on > my new V6 toy. Was using one of those specially made > deep "oxygen sensor" sockets that is partially cut > away (where the wires go). > Am afraid to cut the wires off the end and get a > standard deep socket, because I may not succeed. If I ever catch up with the **** [insert exceedingly offensive epithet] who designed the OXS sensor placement on the 90 quattro 20V I will do something that will require him/her to claim a permanent disability pension. There is no way to remove and replace the upper downpipe to catalyser clamp without removing the sensor, and no way to get anything but a proper split 22m socket on it. Of course, after ten years' residence, the OXS sensor doesn't want to budge and the socket just opens out ... Anyway: a) Use a proper (expen$ive, unfortunately) OXS sensor socket. b) Once the socket's in place on the sensor, apply as many hose clips (Jubilee clips) as will fit around the base of the socket to stop it opening out and jumping round. c) Apply heat if possible. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:37:44 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1991 200T Message-ID: > All European cars on the European market have only one rear foglight, but many > (or even most) Japanese cars have two foglights. I dont know why, but there is > no law (AFAIK) that mandates only one light. Oh, yes - there is. Construction and Use Regulations in the UK, from about 1993 onwards. > Anyway, there is no way to mistake the rear fog lights for brakelights, IMHO. > The loght output is about twice that of the brake light, even though both use a > 21 watt bulb. It's all in the reflector/lense. Yes, you see the difference when you're staring at the car. But the peripheral startle reflex is masked when you're looking elsewhere, such as in your mirrors or at the instruments. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Oct 1 10:38:03 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 100TQW MAC14 MC-2 won't start Message-ID: >> From: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk >> Then I switched the battery back, and the REAL problems >> started. The car won't start (no spark) and the ECU >> cnsistently stores 'coolant sensor'. Also the tachometer >> jumps to 3500 revs as soon as the key is turned. > Might not be related, but . . . > I saw these symptoms once on a VW that I'd stored for a couple of years. > Turned out to be a 12V battery with a couple of dead cells. Completely > confused the tacho (read half scale all the time), indicator relay etc. I > wouldn't think the computer would be too keen on low volts either! I've seen very odd behaviour in ur-quattros with failing alternators - persistent ABS and brake pressure warnings, for instance. So that was my first port of call and the original reason I swapped the batteries. The batteries are identical - both Audi parts - and mine has written on it: "Changed at 97k miles, 27 Jan 1999". I'd like to think it hasn't failed yet, but I'm keeping an open mind for the present. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From tnas at euronet.nl Sun Oct 1 11:52:35 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001001104828.00ae9400@mail.euronet.nl> "John Corbishley" wrote: >I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > > >Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? If your car wasn't equipped with one from new, you have to go aftermarket. The OE items are mounted on a special bracket, and even the shape of the inner hood panels is different. We compared this on a CGT without and an Urq with the struts recently. Tom From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 05:58:53 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: <20001001115853.21034.qmail@web801.mail.yahoo.com> >> err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights >> '93 V6 80 quattro >Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. just been to check..both light up. But, on closer inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run out of proper car wire. mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 07:06:16 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database Message-ID: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Guys Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site that gave part numbers for car parts I bookmarked it but when i go back i can only find the german version would someone please refresh my memory cheers mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From naitove at bellatlantic.net Sun Oct 1 11:11:29 2000 From: naitove at bellatlantic.net (John Naitove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter Message-ID: <39D7460F.BE82B026@bellatlantic.net> Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of the car or the back of the car? John Naitove From lindgre at online.no Sun Oct 1 17:13:21 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1992 - 1995 Audi 500 SEL - Cape Town South Africa References: <0DB13FAA2C83D411A33800508B6BAA39168383@spdcexcs2.metropolitan.co.za> <39D5FB3D.D1A472DC@online.no> <39D6C3C4.CEF3E798@poboxes.com> Message-ID: <39D74681.7EA465C@online.no> Gerard wrote: > The type-44 was available in 5 levels: 400, 500, 500E, 500SE. > Most with the 2.2 litre motor, some with an 1800 I think (not really > sure with the 400). I see. 400 with 4-cyl engine, and 500 with 5-cyl engine! Just liek Volvos were once, 240 with 4-cyl and 260 with 6-cyl. PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From lindgre at online.no Sun Oct 1 17:19:06 2000 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Diesel motors, etc. References: <388008499.970354353967.JavaMail.root@web425-wra> Message-ID: <39D747DA.F4B7C11@online.no> larry leung wrote: > Yeah, but how would you EVER fit one into a type 44, B3 or anything else in the line? The fit of the 5 seems tight enough! The 6-cylinder VW diesel was nver used in ANY VW or Audi passenger car. The only VW with this engine was the LT delivery van, which is bigger than the Vanagon. It had front engine and rear wheel drive, teh only VW ever to offer this configuration. The fact that it wouldn fit in any Audi just shows the size of the Volvo 700-series PerL 92 100 2,8q Avant From critchie1 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 15:33:01 2000 From: critchie1 at hotmail.com (Christopher Ritchie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement Message-ID: Just finished checking the archives. Still a little confused. Can anyone post the procedure for replacing the outer CV joint boot (on an '88 5KSQ)? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 11:44:07 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database In-Reply-To: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001104344.00aa5ae0@traverse.com> Click on the icon of a flag at the top of the page and you can select the English version. At 06:06 AM 10/01/2000 -0700, mike wrote: >Guys > >Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site >that gave part numbers for car parts > >I bookmarked it but when i go back i can only find the >german version > >would someone please refresh my memory > >cheers > >mike > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! >http://photos.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From caramieschnell at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 10:34:02 2000 From: caramieschnell at hotmail.com (caramie schnell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: for sale: '89 90 quattro, red with black leather interior, all options. it has 65,000 miles on it. caramieschnell@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From pdooley at gte.net Sun Oct 1 12:34:23 2000 From: pdooley at gte.net (Pat Dooley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Diesel motors, etc. In-Reply-To: <39D747DA.F4B7C11@online.no> Message-ID: <000401c02b9b$8c42fee0$1525273f@patco> I think the Volvo layout is the difference. The 700's are rear drive. The motor doesn't have to be shoved forward to accommodate the transaxle placement to reach front wheels, ALA Audi. > > The fact that it wouldn fit in any Audi just shows the size of > the Volvo 700-series > > PerL > 92 100 2,8q Avant > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Audi_80 at email.msn.com Sun Oct 1 13:13:48 2000 From: Audi_80 at email.msn.com (Alexander van Gerbig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Need Auto Trans mount for '89 90 References: <933713F1FB7BD111AC2300A0C98F1AD105AFE31C@milxpr06.kla-tencor.com> <39D668E6.F0277120@netconnx.net> Message-ID: <000f01c02bc2$95d9c2a0$0101fea9@99e6s> 893 399 151A Rubber Mount $85.00 This is what I paid at German Auto Recyclers, new. It is slightly different from the old stock ones. Though it's a redesigned or upgraded deal. Honestly give them a shot and see what they can do. Took them a week to get mine, but the price beats all of the ones you have been quoted. Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 The Audi 80 Pages----------------- http://surf.to/the80pages.com North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 13:31:54 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database References: <20001001130616.24670.qmail@web802.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002301c02bc5$1cba58a0$fd8f6395@big1> http://app5.bosch.de/cgi-bin/WebObjects.dll/BoschVer?language=English ----- > Last week someone posted the address for a Bosch site > that gave part numbers for car parts From jcnf at uswest.net Sun Oct 1 11:32:54 2000 From: jcnf at uswest.net (joe fyffe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter References: <39D7460F.BE82B026@bellatlantic.net> Message-ID: <39D76736.EF13C50E@uswest.net> My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They should be facing toward the back. Joe John Naitove wrote: > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of > the car or the back of the car? > > John Naitove > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 13:40:47 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Avant 85 Parting out (Ottawa, ON) Message-ID: <003101c02bc6$5aa5ace0$fd8f6395@big1> My 85 Avant S parts car is going to be moved soon, stripped, and tossed. trans/diff mine bomb/pump mine turbo suspension/brakes/wheels is mine (but my S bits are available, I guess) rear seat is spoken for sunroof is mine Pretty much all else is up for grabs, shipping possible (it's in Ottawa Ontario) interior is in great shape! From kevphill at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 10:46:11 2000 From: kevphill at yahoo.com (Kevin Phillips) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 Message-ID: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but maybe it should have been the M-401. Thanks __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From lubedealer at juno.com Sun Oct 1 12:50:42 2000 From: lubedealer at juno.com (lubedealer@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Can I do a Search on archives/ Message-ID: <20001001.115042.-344779.0.lubedealer@juno.com> How do you do a search on the archives?___ Lookin to replace my headliner in my 87 5000sQ Thanks, Bob _________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From sbigelow at sprint.ca Sun Oct 1 14:02:49 2000 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 References: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005a01c02bc9$7707e1c0$fd8f6395@big1> I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks From critchie1 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 1 18:44:23 2000 From: critchie1 at hotmail.com (Christopher Ritchie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal Questions ('88 5KSQ) Message-ID: I need to replace the radiator on my '88 5KSQ. Some questions on how to remove the old one. 1. Can the radiator come out by itself? That is, without the fan assembly and the A/C condensor. I can see where they are all bolted together on the tops. Is there anything holding them together at the bottoms? 2. Will it clear the hydraulic pump? Or, does that need to be moved? 3. Any helpful hints? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com. From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 13:01:14 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: free at last! (was stuck oxy sensor) Message-ID: <20001001190114.580.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> The subject line says it all: A good overnight drenching in "blaster" penetrating oil, along with using a deep 22mm socket (1/2" drive) did the trick. I broke the top of the sensor off with vise grips to shorten the sensor enough to fit inside the deep socket. This includes cutting the wires off. Then with a 12" extension and a small hammer, I beat down on the affair to insure the socket was seated on the remnants of the hex (somewhat rounded off yesterday). Once I heard the socket making solid contact with the exh. manifold, I was set. One good 1/4 turn from my breaker bar, and voila'! The re-use of the existing harness to accomodate the Bosch 13913 only adds 10~15 minutes of stripping, soldering and use of heat shrink tubing per sensor. That part is easy for me because I do that stuff for a living. The money saved makes it well worth the time. I don't know who came up with the sub, but THANK YOU! Lunch at the Waffle House is on me (whenever you are in Atlanta). Thanks too to those who put the $0.02 on getting the old ones out. The sensors appear to have a date code of "47/92" on them...which leads me to believe that they've been in there since this '93 100 was built. Did I decode the date code correctly? Now, my tech tip-disconnect the battery while you're doing this work. Not only is it safer for you and the car, you'll also erase the fault memory from the ECU. Won't it be nice to see "$$$$" when I dump the codes after a drive? Oops, there I go thinking of the type $$ again! One last question on this topic...will this Bosch 13913 oxy sensor also replace the one in an '86 5kT? If I wind up keeping the car, it's probably next on the list to replace. Thanks again to all, Bill Magliocco 2 VW Diesels, a better running 100 and a sick 5kT __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 13:04:19 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in Seattle, WA. Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very factory: The non-factory mods: 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) The factory-looking mods: 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper cover assemblies were painted full body color. 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that were very nice looking. I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. -- Software suppliers are trying to make their software packages more "user- friendly"... Their best approach, so far, has been to take all the old brochures, and stamp the words, "user-friendly" on the cover. - Bill Gates From Kevphill at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 16:01:33 2000 From: Kevphill at yahoo.com (Kevin Phillips) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 References: <20001001164611.29828.qmail@web207.mail.yahoo.com> <005a01c02bc9$7707e1c0$fd8f6395@big1> Message-ID: <004a01c02bda$0b465f00$f1975ed1@natedog> Well I can exclusively that the Mobil M-301 filter won't fit the MC-2 engine, too fat by quarter inch or so. So I compared the internal structure of the Mobil filter and the Bosch that I had and they looked to be of similar high quality with anti-drain + pressure by-pass valves. I used Mobil Tri-synthetic 15-50 on sale at Kmart for $3.50/q for the 200 and the Saab got a Mobil filter and Castrol 10-30 synthetic. ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Bigelow To: ; Kevin Phillips Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 13:02 Subject: Re: oil filters for MC-2 I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From GMBCHEF at aol.com Sun Oct 1 16:39:07 2000 From: GMBCHEF at aol.com (GMBCHEF@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Could be a Tresor 4000? -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: "Mark L. Chang" Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:04:19 -0700 (PDT) Size: 3009 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/c92ec38f/attachment.eml From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 13:43:40 2000 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Bosch database Message-ID: <20001001194340.3012.qmail@web804.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks....got it now mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 13:48:20 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) In-Reply-To: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Message-ID: On Sun, 1 Oct 2000 GMBCHEF@aol.com wrote: > Could be a Tresor 4000? Don't think so - no other body kit stuff was evident. -- Windows NT crashed. I am the Blue Screen of Death. No one hears your screams. -- Peter Rothman From mx at snet.net Sun Oct 1 13:48:23 2000 From: mx at snet.net (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) References: <5e.157553d.2708ecdb@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D79507.52EB0E01@snet.net> Sounds like an 84 with later bumpers. Bob GMBCHEF@aol.com wrote: > Could be a Tresor 4000? > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) > Date: Sun, 1 Oct 2000 12:04:19 -0700 (PDT) > From: "Mark L. Chang" > To: Quattro List > > Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in > Seattle, WA. > > Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things > off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very > factory: > > The non-factory mods: > 1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) > 2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) > 3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) > > The factory-looking mods: > 1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper > cover assemblies were painted full body color. > 2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. > 3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about > knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: > http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg > But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that > were very nice looking. > > I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find > it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. > > -- > Software suppliers are trying to make their software packages more "user- > friendly"... Their best approach, so far, has been to take all the old > brochures, and stamp the words, "user-friendly" on the cover. > - Bill Gates > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 13:55:31 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: oil filters for MC-2 Message-ID: <20001001195531.11075.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> Heya, Not sure how this thread started but I use the Mobil MI-205 filter. this is the one spec'd for the Audi Turbo motors. ANd as Kevin mentioned (I think it was Kevin) the Mobil filters are of very high quality. I would venture to say just as high of quality as the Audi filters (Mahle / Mann) but maybe a better filter media. Its a very High flow rate but high filtration synthetic media. l8r Todd Kevin Phillips wrote: Well I can exclusively that the Mobil M-301 filter won't fit the MC-2 engine, too fat by quarter inch or so. So I compared the internal structure of the Mobil filter and the Bosch that I had and they looked to be of similar high quality with anti-drain + pressure by-pass valves. I used Mobil Tri-synthetic 15-50 on sale at Kmart for $3.50/q for the 200 and the Saab got a Mobil filter and Castrol 10-30 synthetic. ----- Original Message ----- From: Stephen Bigelow To: ; Kevin Phillips Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 13:02 Subject: Re: oil filters for MC-2 I assume it's a 10V...I use a Amsoil SDF-15 (on my 84 5ks), it's also the 5 litre Ford application. About an inch bigger in diameter, and a little over an inch longer, as well. Exact size was posted to the list...last November maybe. I can measure it if you want. Long story short....1984 (and I'm sure other) Ford 5 litre filter applications screw on to 5 cylinder Audi blocks...at least the 88 and earlier ones. Seem to think they changed mounting somewhere around there, dunno for sure. I just finished an 11 month oil change interval using this filter (changed at 6 month) and Amsoil 0W-30. The amount of material on my magnetic oil plug would fit here--> . <_ Good filter. > Sorry to bring this up again but cannot find it in the archives. > What are the alternative large oil filter applications for the 200TQ. > I think it was a diesel or mustang filter. I bought a Mobil M-301 but > maybe it should have been the M-401. > Thanks _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattroHeya, Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/64a2e752/attachment.htm From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 14:22:30 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors Message-ID: <20001001202230.13440.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> There are quite a few vendors that have slotted rotors. If you want zinc plated ones then I know that 2-Bennett has them available but at like $200+ a set I think. I know there is a company in Cadada that advertises in European car that has very cheap prices after exchange rate and will slot them. They are Brembo disks and I think they actually order them slotted from Brembo but they may do it in house. Which is not a problem for slotting. just never buy drilled rotors that are drilled after the fact. I am using 2-bennet rear slotted rotors as they will drill the 5-bolt pattern into them for me since I need 4kq rears with 5-bolt holes. ANd I get the zinc plated rotor as well. No one else would drill the 5-holes for a reasonable price. :-) IF you call around though, there are others that do this. I just cant think of their names. Wolf Sport maybe. ANd there is a Brake only place in EC that has them. Good luck. l8r Todd Ameer Antar wrote: Where can you get slotted rotors for 5k's? I bought the powerdiscs for only a few bucks more than the OE discs. Are there slotted rotors avail. for as good a price? Also, are there any places w/ zinc coated discs? The only one I can find are drilled, which is not what I'm looking for...too espensive + shorter life. The zinc coated ones look nice though and keep from rusting where the pads don't touch. Any advice appreciated. -ameer '84 5kT...190k At 04:32 AM 9/30/00, you wrote: >While a hot brake disk may not have moisture on it, Driving around in >deep snow and heavy deep rain sure as hell does get them wet and after say >10 minutes on the highway in 6" snow when you slam on the brakes (or >rather ease into them) wet disks dont stop. IMHO (and the exp of many >rally drivers) slotted rotors do clean the moisure off and thus eliminate >that moment of panic when you feel you have no brakes. Granted, cold pads >sometimes dont work to well but some do. Comparison is with same pads >that work great when cold, jsut not wet. > > Also, the cleaning action also works for Mud, dirt, grime (that > includes brake dust) etc. I like draditional slotted rotors better than > powerdisc's because they clean better. water is a non issue of > comparison but mud and dirt is. The ATE's dont give it anywhere to be > thrown, other slotted rotors do. If you live in LA or somewhere where > you get now snow and mud then they are fine, otherwise I prefer the other > options. > > Just my opinion. And in response to Greg's question, I believe that > most people install with the slots moving backwards. IE< the hub > portion of slot leads the outer portion when driving forward. The other > way tends to suck the pads in which I remember from a theread a few > months ago some people liked for soem reason. But I think most havbe > them suck out. > >l8r > > Todd > > Kwattro@aol.com wrote: >>In a message dated 00-09-29 23:44:01 EDT, you write: >> >><< On the other rotor, the slots are front slash /. Which rotor goes on >>the left side and which goes on the right? Does it make any difference? It >>would >>seem that in one instance the squeezing brake pads will cause the gases >>and/or >>moisture to flow towards the hub and in the other instance they would flow >>towards >>the edge of the rotor. Which is better and why? >> >>Greg J >> >> >> >> >>Get Ate powerdiscs (radius cut rotors...) , and remember that there isn't >>any >>moisture on a activated brake disc, and the pad compounds of today do not >>generate gases like old compounds. So what are the slots for? Massive >>amounts of brake dust - they provide a channel for it. For those interested, >>this was from a BMWCCA school lecture on brake performance, in which I asked >>a brake expert (t! he founder of DECH mustangs, which mostly concentrate on >>braking/suspension work) if I had spent the money in the right area by >>getting slotted instead of drilled. The answer was a resounding yes, with >>the aforementioned explaination why... >> >>Later! >>Carter J >>Kwattro@aol.com >>_______________________________________________ >>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >>please visit the web interface at >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro >Sure > >Todd Phenneger >83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) >84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. > > > >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 >Free! _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/6edf65ec/attachment.htm From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 17:29:32 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Radiator Removal Questions ('88 5KSQ) References: Message-ID: <39D79EAC.3F56FC8F@worldnet.att.net> Remove the pump, leave the lines on - shift it over to the valve cover. The AC condensor rests in a wedge at the bottom - lift and pull forward slightly. There is a rubber mount on the bottom of the radiator - order it, it will need replacement. There are 2 -3 other bolts under there that hold the lower shroud to the bottom. Romove the fan wires and pull the radiator/fan & shroud as an assembly - its easiest! Christopher Ritchie wrote: > I need to replace the radiator on my '88 5KSQ. Some questions on how to > remove the old one. > > 1. Can the radiator come out by itself? That is, without the fan assembly > and the A/C condensor. I can see where they are all bolted together on the > tops. Is there anything holding them together at the bottoms? > > 2. Will it clear the hydraulic pump? Or, does that need to be moved? > > 3. Any helpful hints? > _________________________________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. > > Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at > http://profiles.msn.com. > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From tquattroguy at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 14:32:14 2000 From: tquattroguy at yahoo.com (Todd Phenneger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Tie rod ends. 4000 Q Rears Message-ID: <20001001203214.13961.qmail@web5203.mail.yahoo.com> THis is a VERY late post. Sorry, But I have never had a problem with my Method. Or rather, After using this method. ANd've I've had some VERY stubbgorn ones. Probably done a total of 5 cars with this method. I use what is basically a hub puller. It has two claws that grab the Tie rod arm and then the threaded screw that sits on the nut side of Tie rod end. Take off nut, screw it down and when its REALLY tight pop the arm with a real hammer. The shock will break it loose. Or if it doesnt, tighten it some more and tap again. Keep going like this. I've never ruined a set of thereads (except Before I used this tool) and It works every time. Then, once the tie rod end is off, take out the entire Tie Rod and put it in a vise. soak with penatrant and use muscle to break loose the nuts. YOu will likely have a hell of a time getting them off so what I do is unscrew the center portion of the tie rod off the two ends. Then use a Die to clean up the well corroded threads. Then remove nut and replace with a nice new stainless Jam Nut. then reassemble wiht some anti-sieze. IF your end was in good shape then your good to go wihtout spending $100 x 2 on new tie rods. And you alignment shop will LOVE you and be able to do a proper alignment. I take cars to a friend that works at a shop so I always do this ont he 4kq's so it makes his job easy. ITs almost impossible to align the back if those tie rods have been on for a while. l8r Todd Suffolk wrote: Subject: Re: Need advice on breaking free rear 4kq tierods and ball joints Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:09:17 -0400 If you have air tools the Home Depot sells a ~ Campbell Hausefield air chisel for ~$30 and there are 5 chisels in a set, for ~$ 12. Those that don't come out with liquid penetrant and the sledge (on the nut covering the end of the treads) get the magic air chisel. As you look at the treads sticking thru the hub assembly (conical "V" Shape), place a nut and thread down until flush with the end of the treaded shaft ( to keep the threads in tact and help keep the chisel point ( use the round pointed one) from slipping off the end of the threaded stud as you squeeze the trigger and BRUp,brup,brup the whole thing loose. It will only go to the nut (broken free) so you'll have to socket off the nut to pull the assembly free. BUT if you did alot of chisel point walking to the nut at the contact point with the treads you may now need a nut splitter to take off the nut. I'll be doing that this week or so. -Scott BOSTON just some input. Had a similar problem with my 86 4kcsq as well. I was able to get the rear tie rod ends loose with a torch, and a large hammer. They were not reusable when I was done though. The ball joint on the drivers side was nearly impossible to remove. What I ended up doing was pulling the ball joint seat(not sure what it is called)out from the control arm, and removing it and the strut assembly as one piece. I then went down to the workshop, and tried to remove it with a torch. Couldn't get it. Then I tried a torch, and a large sledge. Still couldn't get it. Eventually, I took the bolts off of the joint, where it seats into the bottom of the strut assy, and cut/pried the joint out, so I just had the ball joint and seat as a piece. Then the drill press got the ball joint out. Took me a total of 3.5 hours for that side. Funny enough, the passenger side ball joint popped right out with a little heat and a tap from the hammer, and I was able to use the appropriate tool to get the joint out of the strut assembly. That side took much less time. Wasn't a very elegant way to fix it, but it worked, and the rear suspension is much tighter. The guy at the alignment shop was appreciative. I dropped off the car, and he rolled his eyes and started cussing under his breath. When I went back to pick it up though, he was smiling, and said "that was the easiest alignment I've ever done on one of those damn cars". I guess it helps when every component on the suspension has just been replaced. :) Sorry for my ramble, and good luck with yours. groa@Cinergy.com> To: "'quattro@audifans.com'" , "'mrobinso@CH2M.com'" _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro Todd Phenneger 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt) 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS. --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001001/71b24821/attachment.htm From sjensen at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 17:24:53 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? Message-ID: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump off post, vroom and off and running. Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News but no joy. Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling the carpet back now. Please help! -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq 87 5kcstqw From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Sun Oct 1 23:08:05 2000 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: 1991 200T References: Message-ID: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: ; > > > Anyway, there is no way to mistake the rear fog lights for brakelights, IMHO. > > The loght output is about twice that of the brake light, even though both use a > > 21 watt bulb. It's all in the reflector/lense. > > Yes, you see the difference when you're staring at the car. But the > peripheral startle reflex is masked when you're looking elsewhere, > such as in your mirrors or at the instruments. It all depends - some vehicles have a really stupid combined tail & fog light setup, SAAB 9000 for example. Couple of years ago my ex complained to me that her car (9000) had failed inspection because the rear fog didn't work (like it was _my_ problem). I took a close look to discover that some monkey lad had fitted the bulbs incorrectly (not a difficult thing to do, actually) so everytime she switched on her lights she got 21w and when she added the fogs it was just another 5w which nobody could see. In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... Regards, Jim Haseltine From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Sun Oct 1 22:56:28 2000 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: Correct Struts for Ur-Q Hood?? References: <4.3.2.7.0.20001001104828.00ae9400@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <00a801c02beb$e9c848e0$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Nas" > "John Corbishley" wrote: > > >I have now seen a number of Ur-Qs with hood struts. > > > > > >Which are the best to use, and how are they mounted? > > If your car wasn't equipped with one from new, you have to go aftermarket. > The OE items are mounted on a special bracket, and even the shape of the > inner hood panels is different. We compared this on a CGT without and an > Urq with the struts recently. My 88 Ur-q now has a bonnet donated from my 83 CGT, all the hardware swapped over without problems. The bonnet fitted to my 81 Ur-q has also got all the holes and slots required for the strut brackets to fit. All three bonnets have both the slots for the strut brackets and the hole for the single prop. Regards Jim Haseltine From alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu Sun Oct 1 17:43:26 2000 From: alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu (Albert Ng) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: ALMS report In-Reply-To: <39D6BE5C.C26AD1A2@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: Damn, I wonder when they gonna bring ALMS to Indy!!!! I hope they do it next year! Albert Ng On Sun, 1 Oct 2000, David Head wrote: > Audi squeaks by with a 1-2 win, Panoz charging hard at the end for 2nd > after the final yellow, number 77 throws a blocking move... In GTS, > Corvette charges hard in the last 4 laps and overdives the Viper leader > into a spinoff - Corvette goes 1,3. In 1000 miles of driving, the last 4 > laps, the distance between the top 3 ccars in both classes was under 2 > seconds! The evening was spent watching a Direct TV Speedvision feed on > the side of the Rogers/Corell RV. > BMW - #43 does a 360 the hard way early on when he catches air in a > Mercedes Lemans manner and walks away. #42 damages the rear wing & > suspension in the final 1/2 hour and takes himself outa contention in a > seriously loooong pit stop. > The qlist/QCUSA was very well represented with over 65 cars, only one of > which was a V8 (Ed?...). A superb condition local 87.5 CGT arrived late > - 130hp eng and rear disks - had never heard of the qlist... Most > unusual older Audi - Paul Cassara's early 5Ktq in Sport colors with > Jetta headlights. Nicest older Audi - a drop dead gorgeous tornado red > 4000CSq, lowered. Several early Avants, one each 91 200 tqa and tqs, > urS4s and S6s abounded, 6 tts, one tt roadster, coupla coupe qs > including Erics 'runnin iron'. Most unusual non - Audi: the '61 35' > Gatorojo custom coach brought by the kindly and erudite Unka Bart. > A good time was had by all - except the poor 70# doe that narrowly > avoided being hit TWICE by the SAME Porsche GT in the first 15 minutes > of the race at the chicane. Rare to see a caution due to frantic > wildlife... > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 16:19:49 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:08 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ Message-ID: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> I just did this in August on an '86 5kt (a/t)...this may not be exact: 1) Pull the hydraulic (p/s) pump. Get it out of there completely. Move hoses so you don't get goo2000 all over. 2) Disconnect the battery...safety tip. Don't forget you have a fan and fan switch to contend with. 3) There are three rubber mounts. Two small ones on the top, one larger one on the botttom. There are also shield mounting bolts to contend with too. Get the latest revision on the top mounts. These will have a "cup" of metal around half the rubber part. I can get the revison letter for you if you need it. The "cup" improves axial (sideways) rigidity. 4) Get the Modine radiator. Don't put the same problem back into your car. 5) Drain as much coolant as you can before you begin the process. 6) Might as well change those hoses while you're at it>good luck finding the top "3 way" hose at a traditional auto parts store. You are going to need the dealer or the specialists (Blau, GPR, etc.). __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 16:25:19 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: changing o2 sensors-V6 motors Message-ID: <20001001222519.6881.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> Forgot to add that pulling the battery not only is safer, wipes the memory, but also resets the "learning curve" of the ECU back to its base values. I don't know if that is absolutely necessary, but it certainly can't hurt. After all, the ECU started life at the Audi factory in a car with new o2 sensors. For those with CIS and earlier, and non-lambda models, sorry for the BW. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Mon Oct 2 00:41:26 2000 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: cgt clutch change (long) Message-ID: <001701c02bf8$d10f52a0$31e331d4@thebeast> ok the time came for the clutch change, i got a sachs clutch from german and swedish for ?89 +vat, that included drive plate, friction plate and release bearing. followed the haynes manual - remove airbox disconnect and remove downpipe disconnect track rods from joining bracket (not exact words so i didnt understand and left that) unbolt and slide driveshafts out of the way disconnect reverse light switch support front of engine (cant see any reason why so i wont bother) disconnect clutch cable unbolt gearchange mechanism unbolt top gearbox bolts unbolt and push to one side gearbox steady and remove mount unbolt lower gearbox bolts ok the gearbox is now free, easy peasy you think. well so far i have snapped a downpipe stud, so inlet manifold off, then exhaust manifold off......... so now its just a case of sliding the box back, ok put a jack under the box, and pull back...... 10mm of movement and stop, ok wiggle gearbox....... no more....... crow bar gearbox, ok weve got about an inch and a half of movement, stuck looking ontop of the box i find out what the manual was talking about when it mentioned the track rod brackety thingy... the gearbox wont move because it is now hitting this bracket DOH!!!! ok its easier to shift that out of the way before you move the box, but, lesson learned. wiggle and lever some more and its almost free, then stuck again, after much messing i constructed a 'table' out of bricks and a sheet of ply about an inch below the gearbox, got to large crowbars and forced the gearbox to drop, it worked!!!. upon examining the release bearing i realised what the spring was that i found lodged between the front gearbox cover and the gearbox, several months before, it was on of the springs of the release bearing, so the release bearing always slid back crooked. my friends-girlfriend's-brother came round and told me he could do this job in four hours!! this is after 12 maybe.... apparently it helps if you jacke the front of the engine up, LESSON 2 anyway sorry about the long email just a bit of info for anyone wanting to do something like this From jimknopf at bigfoot.com Mon Oct 2 01:54:23 2000 From: jimknopf at bigfoot.com (Jens) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Could use help on US specs References: <200010012026.QAA03900@audifans.com> Message-ID: <39D7CEAE.A89B87D6@bigfoot.com> Hi there listers! I finally started working on a thorough restructuring on parts of my page. However, as I am German, I don't know too much about the US versions. So, if you want to help me, I would be very happy. The "task": ;) Go to http://home.germany.net/100-157656/el.htm (It is part of www.audistory.de in case you wonder.) And find all the mistakes I have committed. Feel free to send e-mails to me directly, if you prefer. Also, if you find mistakes concerning the European versions: tell me. Nothing is uglier than mistakes on a page I think. (Well, except for animated gifs ;) ) TIA Jens PS: If anyone finds out that I use his/her pic(s) without his/her knowledge and/or credit given, please tell me. PPS: Two new pics of Steppenwolf on my page. From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Mon Oct 2 00:46:30 2000 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: exhaust manifold insulating Message-ID: <002501c02bf9$71b4cfa0$31e331d4@thebeast> since i have it off, i waas going to remove all the loose rust, paint it and insulate it. my plan was hi temp paint, then tinfoil, then a fabric of some kind ( iwant to do this cheaply and easily and tomorrow) ill probably do the same on the downpipe. has anyone got anty recommendations as to how i can keep this lot in situe, can i use epoxy to bond the fabric?? i dont know what kind of temperatures this will see/take. any help would be really cool From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Sun Oct 1 16:58:30 2000 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan Message-ID: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Hello list, I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the drain plug, went to change the oil today and found that the threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit there with no oil in it? As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I would be interested in it. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:05:51 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? In-Reply-To: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html At 04:24 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: >Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der >Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: > >Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, >but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. >Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump >off post, vroom and off and running. > >Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, >but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News >but no joy. > >Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling >the carpet back now. > >Please help! > >-Steve Jensen >87 5kcstq >87 5kcstqw > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Mon Oct 2 12:33:39 2000 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors In-Reply-To: <970325512.22668@egroups.com> Message-ID: <000201c02bfc$c517acf0$cb164290@DAVE> ditto for the ap's on my ur-q. according to their mounting instructions that is.... dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 23:20:54 -0500 From: "Jimmy Pribble, Managing Editor, UrS4.com" Subject: RE: Slotted Rotors My Zimmerman rotors slotted by Weston Motorsports (Hi Paul!) are both slotted "back." That is, facing the rotor, the slot curves clockwise from inside to the outside. I think this is the correct configuration, but I'm not exactly sure why. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle that the slot cuts across the pad. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:16:15 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan In-Reply-To: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001191325.00bba140@traverse.com> Another vote for Fumoto? http://www.fumotovalve.com/ Maybe drop the pan, install the Fumoto and add a seal and nut to the inside? At 03:58 PM 10/01/2000 -0700, Ron Wainwright wrote: > Hello list, > > I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the >drain plug, > went to change the oil today and found that the >threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I >tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay >torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first >question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around >for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit >there with no oil in it? > >As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get >this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably >the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I >would be interested in it. >Thanks >Ron > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! >http://photos.yahoo.com/ >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From gregsj at iea.com Sun Oct 1 17:15:38 2000 From: gregsj at iea.com (Greg Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Slotted Rotors References: <000201c02bfc$c517acf0$cb164290@DAVE> Message-ID: <39D7C599.85D5DB83@iea.com> Thanks to all who replied. Its been nearly unanimous and I have my rotors mounted the correct way. What caused all this is the picture of the new Saleen on the front of Autoweek. His rotors are mounted the other direction. Greg J Dave Eaton wrote: > ditto for the ap's on my ur-q. according to their mounting instructions > that is.... > > dave > '95 rs2 > '90 ur-q > > -----Original Message----- > Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 23:20:54 -0500 > From: "Jimmy Pribble, Managing Editor, UrS4.com" > Subject: RE: Slotted Rotors > > My Zimmerman rotors slotted by Weston Motorsports (Hi Paul!) are both > slotted "back." That is, facing the rotor, the slot curves clockwise from > inside to the outside. I think this is the correct configuration, but I'm > not exactly sure why. I'm guessing it has something to do with the angle > that the slot cuts across the pad. From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 20:20:48 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: "Footwell Splice"? addendum In-Reply-To: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> References: <001801c02be5$a94d6260$951356d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001191939.00bc4830@traverse.com> At 07:05 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Kneale Brownson wrote: >Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all >Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html >When you get there, search on "alternator to battery cable splice repair" > >At 04:24 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: > >>Just limped back from an outstanding time at Road Atlanta, and Der >>Schwarzenwagen threw me a curve: >> >>Stopped to clean the windows and no restart. Have a good charge on battery, >>but solenoid clicking when hitting the key. Battery cables clean and tight. >>Jumper cables to battery gives same sound. Jumper cables to block and jump >>off post, vroom and off and running. >> >>Strongly suspect the "splice" in the footwell mentioned in previous posts, >>but I can't find it in the archives. Have also tried searching on Deja News >>but no joy. >> >>Anybody have the general location of this mysterious splice? I'm peeling >>the carpet back now. >> >>Please help! >> >>-Steve Jensen >>87 5kcstq >>87 5kcstqw >> >>_______________________________________________ >>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >>please visit the web interface at >>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Sun Oct 1 19:25:33 2000 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan In-Reply-To: <20001001225830.6910.qmail@web1006.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As a very temporary solution, I have seen expandable replacement plugs. As you tighten them, a piece of rubber expands to seal the opening. Again, this would be a pretty sketchy set-up, but it will make the car usable, and at least hold oil in the engine. I think that these can be found at most national chain-type auto parts stores. -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Ron Wainwright Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 5:59 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: oil pan Hello list, I'v run into a little problem with my oil pan and the drain plug, went to change the oil today and found that the threads for the pan and the bolt are pretty striped I tried everything to make sure the bolt would stay torqued but it wont the threads are shot, my first question is does anybody have a oil pan sitting around for an 87 5ksq? and how long should I let the car sit there with no oil in it? As you guy's and gal's can assume I would like to get this fixed asap if anybody in the Mass area preferably the Springfield area has an extra pan sittin around I would be interested in it. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sjensen at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 20:16:56 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Help - Where is "Footwell Splice"? References: <4.3.1.2.20001001190451.00bb8e20@traverse.com> Message-ID: <004401c02bfd$b1ea0c80$cf0345cf@default> Earlier, Kneale said: > Alternator to battery cable splice repair is basically the same for all > Type 44's, I've read, so use Chris Miller's Page's report on the process: > > http://members.aol.com/c1j1miller/index.html Thank you, thank you, thank you! This is what I was looking for but I couldn't remember where it was. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq 87 5kcstqw From mwvogt at mindspring.com Sun Oct 1 20:44:58 2000 From: mwvogt at mindspring.com (Mark Vogt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: WTB: 6Jx15H2 ET 45 4 lug RIMS Message-ID: <200010012343.TAA12969@smtp10.atl.mindspring.net> Friends, I'm looking for (4) 15" 4lug ET45 RIMS for my (hopefully running soon) 5000s Avant. I'm redoing auto-wagon for wife/family car, so nothing fancy or too costly. The 14's on there now are beat to s--t and probably bent from Boston curbs. I think this size was used on 100's. TIA Mark Vogt, Exeter, NH '90 80 '89 200tqa '87 5000sa (in intensive care) From l.leung at juno.com Sun Oct 1 20:53:52 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: <389029829.970444432960.JavaMail.root@web649-wra> Was your car bought new? If not, then this was a P.O. mod. Not one of the better ones, IMHO. LL - NY ------Original Message------ From: =?iso-8859-1?q?mike?= To: quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk, quattro@audifans.com Sent: October 1, 2000 11:58:53 AM GMT Subject: Re: foglights >> err.. i think both my (uk) audis have 2 two lights >> '93 V6 80 quattro >Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right hand traffic only'. just been to check..both light up. But, on closer inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run out of proper car wire. mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ _______________________________________________ Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery please visit the web interface at http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Oct 1 17:55:53 2000 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Fwd: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) In-Reply-To: <39D79507.52EB0E01@snet.net> Message-ID: On Sun, 1 Oct 2000, Bob wrote: > Sounds like an 84 with later bumpers. Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- Q: How many surrealists does it take to change a light bulb? A: Two, one to hold the giraffe, and the other to fill the bathtub with brightly colored machine tools. From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Mon Oct 2 03:17:55 2000 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: exhaust manifold insulating In-Reply-To: <002501c02bf9$71b4cfa0$31e331d4@thebeast> Message-ID: There are no high temp paint that will cope with the temps of a turbo exhaust manifold. I dont think that exhaust wrap is good on our cars either. I know people that has had more problems with cracking manifolds with the exhaust wrapping... No experience with audis though... J?rgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden From quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net Sun Oct 1 21:10:20 2000 From: quattro at pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 1991 200T In-Reply-To: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> References: <00a901c02beb$eb17fa60$de6fa8c0@jim> Message-ID: At 10:08 PM +0100 10/1/00, Jim Haseltine wrote: >In the last 24 hours I've followed two vehicles with rear fogs lit, a Volvo >last night and today a rental van - in broad daylight... At least on the 960, it's very hard to "accidentally" leave it on. The rear fog light, when on, also lights a -very- bright orange light in the instrument cluster. it's all in the instrumentation. I think that there would be far less confusion if the diagram was a car, with lines out the back...not just "lines straight out of a reflector"(which is almost -exactly- like the "fog light" symbol(which is lines out of reflector, pointing down.) The diagram is clearly not effective enough...but it's probably some ISO standard, that nobody can touch or question... Brett -- ---- Brett Dikeman Systems Engineer CFN(formerly iClick, Inc) 914-872-8043 120 Bloomingdale Rd. 914-872-8100(fax) White Plains, NY 10605 http://www.iclick.com PGP Fingerprint: 06C2 5D5B D2B4 7626 BB24 2BBC 9E4A C8B3 PGP Key location: http://pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net/pgp/brett.pgp From l.leung at juno.com Sun Oct 1 21:14:28 2000 From: l.leung at juno.com (larry leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Audi Spottings/potential New Lister Message-ID: <390305490.970445668368.JavaMail.root@web315-wra.mail.com> First the spotting: 5:15 PM. Sunday, 10/1. Heading north on NY Rt 9 south of Fishkill, NY, BEAUTIFUL '90 Coupe Quattro in silver, OEM 5 spoke 3 - pieces, I was in a Pearl 200Q with a bicycle roof rack and A4 5 spokes heading south. Lister? Potential New Lister - Guy approached me while I was in the Staples Parking lot in Kingston, NY. Complimented my 200Q and wanted to know of my opinions of Audi's in general :) and what I thought of a '97 A4 2.8Q, especially in terms of maintenance (he had a Saab in the past). I figured if he was used to Saab maintenance, then he'd be more than happy with the A4, which, possibly due to newness just doesn't seem as "maintenance intensive" as the type $$, especially the turbos. He's hooked on the longevity of the cars (and was somewhat shocked at the milage on mine (158K) and on the 4KQ I sold (188K, now the friend whom has it is at 240K), their build, and styling, etc. I think we've another lister (and thanks to my Q-list decals, it was easy for me to give him the web site. Contact Bob Myers, c/o this list....) LL - NY From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Sun Oct 1 21:25:20 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ References: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator that lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you really expect to have the car another 10 years? William Magliocco wrote: > 4) Get the Modine radiator. Don't put the same > problem back into your car. From Identiles at aol.com Sun Oct 1 21:29:51 2000 From: Identiles at aol.com (Identiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: AUDI 200Q Avant High Speed Run Message-ID: Last night, a Pearl black Audi 200 Quatttro Avant made it from Atlantic city NJ to Staten Island NY in one hour. It also stopped for gasoline. This wagon was hauling. The bright xenon wanna be lights lite up the Garden State Parkway quite well. It also got the attention of left lancer's to move very quickly out of the way at 3 am. It must have been pretty scary to have this UFO coming up on the slow people at excess of 100 mph. I just wished that both my rear fog lights worked for those who lingered in the passing lane......... TEAM AUDI !!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone in the NYC or NJ area who would like to get together with there audis e-mail me. From leelevitt at excite.com Sun Oct 1 18:35:47 2000 From: leelevitt at excite.com (Lee Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter Message-ID: <15058998.970446947616.JavaMail.imail@bronty> joe fyffe writes: John Naitove wrote: > CC: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They should > be facing toward the back. Joe > > John Naitove wrote: > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about dealers/dealer > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front of > > the car or the back of the car? What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am assuming that your 85 is a typo...). Lee '96 A6qw _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html From alanpage at connix.com Sun Oct 1 21:39:43 2000 From: alanpage at connix.com (alan page) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start Message-ID: <39D7D934.D84CC7C8@connix.com> Hello, I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the engine? Anything simple I should check on? Thanks, Alan Page Sandy Hook, CT USA '94 S4 '90 80q From BRIT4VWS at aol.com Sun Oct 1 22:01:19 2000 From: BRIT4VWS at aol.com (BRIT4VWS@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: oil pan Message-ID: I fixed mine with an oversize drain plug self tapping and everything. 5 oil changes later works like a beauty and there is another oversize plug after the 1st (1 oversize and 2 oversize). You might give it a try I got mine at pep boys or Napa or checker I can't remember sense they all have them. On another note I bought a new oil pan genuine parts for 30 or around there. The gasket for the pan was more expensive than the pan it self. This was a parts warehouse that I got mine at in Colorado. Britton Ingraham 1987 4000 CS quattro 1986 Quantum GL 1973 Type 1 Sedan From magliocc at rocketmail.com Sun Oct 1 19:27:09 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: I stand corrected (was adaptive ECU-V6) Message-ID: <20001002012709.28211.qmail@web2905.mail.yahoo.com> Forgot all about last versions of CIS ECUs, which had some of the same functionality I was talking about. Sorry, Alex! My frame of reference on CIS was the 85-86 Audi type $$, an '84 VW Quantum, '85 Golf GTI and '88 VW Fox. None of those had diagnostic ECU systems, let alone adaptive controls. Some had buzzer freq valves, some had DPR valves, and the GTI had electronically controlled variable timing and the knock sensor. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Oct 1 23:13:25 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start In-Reply-To: <39D7D934.D84CC7C8@connix.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move ahead to contact the flywheel. At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: >Hello, > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > >Thanks, >Alan Page >Sandy Hook, CT USA > >'94 S4 >'90 80q > >_______________________________________________ >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery >please visit the web interface at >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From Kwattro at aol.com Sun Oct 1 23:18:54 2000 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: In a message dated 00-10-01 20:00:06 EDT, you write: << Definitely not -- had 85+ interior, lights, rear light cluster, etc. etc... I just searched around - did the UrQ have any side mouldings? -- >> Well, a couple of things. First off, some of the 86's and most 87's had the mirrors body color. As for the trim, it would be an easy fit for any trim piece, if you think about it. Sounds like the guy or gal is in with a body shop. There are also paints that can be used on lights, giving the effect of body color - there was a Mercedes show car with titanium colored taillights not too long ago. Duane Hale's turbo 4000CSQ had no side trim, and painted stainless and rubber trim (it was in Eurocar for those who don't know.). Nothing is impossible - it's all about money. The car's actually look nice without the side trim, but somewhat void since the black stripe matches up. However, the character line from the 84 is still present, just covered up by the trim. Grill sounds custom, of course. Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From naitove at bellatlantic.net Sun Oct 1 23:27:16 2000 From: naitove at bellatlantic.net (John Naitove) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A6 Cabin filter References: <15058998.970446947616.JavaMail.imail@bronty> Message-ID: <39D7F283.359C3D75@bellatlantic.net> It's a 95 and the manual recommended replacing it. John Lee Levitt wrote: > joe fyffe writes: > > John Naitove wrote: > > > CC: quattro@audifans.com > > Subject: Re: A6 Cabin filter > > > > My guess is that the arrows indicate the direction of air flow. They > should > > be facing toward the back. Joe > > > > John Naitove wrote: > > > > > Went to replace the cabin air filter (recc'd at 60k miles) on my 85A6qw > > > and found that there was none in there-- just leaves that had found > > > their way in. This confirms what I have always felt about > dealers/dealer > > > service. Anyway I cleaned it out and put the filter in. My question is > > > this: the filter had 2 arrows on top. Should they be facing the front > of > > > the car or the back of the car? > > What year did the A6 start getting the filter? I thought it was '97 (and am > assuming that your 85 is a typo...). > > Lee > '96 A6qw > > _______________________________________________________ > Say Bye to Slow Internet! > http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From sjensen at mindspring.com Mon Oct 2 00:19:19 2000 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: It's always something...(longish) Message-ID: <004001c02c1f$8e94d220$5a9b56d1@default> Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. Oh well, I'll be a minivan pilot for a few days. S'okay, it's an Audi, its always something but it can be fixed... After Dave Head's spot on review of Road Atlanta, I wanted to chime in with my .02 cents. First of all, it was a heckuva lot of fun: I finally got to meet some of the folks from the List whose posts have given me great enjoyment and/or saved me money. After being invited into a motorhome Elliott Potter and I had been admiring, I met Unka Bart, Bob Myers, and Dave Head (whose idea of buying a 5 spd. 4.2L V-8 in Germany, ripping out all the required guts and computers and shipping it back to the US didn't sound half bad). Audi cameraderie was the plan of the day, and Bob Myers said it best when he mentioned the sense of community and friendliness one gets from reading posts (sometimes for years) before finally meeting someone from the List in person. It was a pleasure meeting all three of you. Kudos should also go out to Tom Saltino, who arranged the Audi Corral - 4Ks, 5Ks, S cars (more S cars in one place than I've ever seen), quattros and front drivers. And the neat thing was that everyone left their ego back at the house, I think everyone had a ball (except for that errant deer that wandered out onto the track, she'll probably have nightmares for weeks about racing cars dodging her). I have walked thru the Porsche and Ferrari corrals at other races and the attitude was sometimes so thick you'd need hip waders. Refreshing to walk amongst the various Audi types and see no barriers. In the rest of the infield, the "you don't see that everyday" award goes to the guy with the gas turbine powered pick up truck, followed closely by a guy on a gas turbine powered motorcycle!!! What a hoot! And after the Audis won, who else but Unka Bart would whip out a bottle of champagne to celebrate? Bart, you are truly a class act. The bottom line is this - both my Audis are broken, one with a bum clutch and the other that won't start without a jump - but so what? If I wanted an appliance, I'd put an engine and wheels on my wifes Kelvinator washing machine, life is too short to own boring cars. I have a Bentley, and I have the good List people who don't mind spreading information to help others keep their older and not-so-older Audis running. This is a good place to be. Oh, and the guy driving the Audi 90 that helped jump off my TQW and get me back on the road? Turns out he's got 4 Audis of various types (the 90, a V8, a 5K and the other I forget), but he'd never heard of the List. That has since been rectified. Please give Tom Badger a warm welcome when he posts. Sorry for the long post/rant but I wanted to share. -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq (awaiting clutch transplant) 87 5kcstqw (awaiting splice surgery, but now sporting Audifans stickers) From JordanVw at aol.com Mon Oct 2 00:33:38 2000 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? Message-ID: title sez it all.. anyone know? chris From alanpage at connix.com Mon Oct 2 00:39:35 2000 From: alanpage at connix.com (alan page) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start References: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Message-ID: <39D80363.D00E26FD@connix.com> Kneale, That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and lube the starter? Thanks, Alan Kneale Brownson wrote: > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > >Hello, > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > >Thanks, > >Alan Page > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > >'94 S4 > >'90 80q > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > >To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > >please visit the web interface at > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > From niederst at telerama.com Mon Oct 2 01:18:23 2000 From: niederst at telerama.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? References: Message-ID: <000601c02c27$d0a69a60$5004c9cd@acer> The stock 100 wheels are either 15x6 (non-quattro) or 15x7 (quattro), 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset. I have had the stock 15x6, A4/A6 15x7 and A4/A6 16x7 (all 5x112 bolt pattern, 45 mm offset) on my '92 100 with no problems. If the Fuchs have this offset and bolt pattern (if I remember correctly they do), they will fit. HTH. Craig '92 100S (90k) '86 CGT (191k) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, October 01, 2000 11:33 PM Subject: will 15x7 fuchs fit the '92 up 100 (C4)?? > title sez it all.. anyone know? > chris > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro From erik at aero.und.edu Mon Oct 2 00:21:14 2000 From: erik at aero.und.edu (Erik Addy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Carparts.com cupons Message-ID: Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for carparts.com? I was thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but the # I had is no longer valid. Thanks Erik From tnas at euronet.nl Mon Oct 2 08:50:45 2000 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Intersting 4kq sighted (opinions?) Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20001002074710.00aec8b0@mail.euronet.nl> "Mark L. Chang" wrote: >Saw a very interesting 4kq yesterday on the 520 floating bridge in >Seattle, WA. >Car looked to be a "normal" Type 85 circa 1985-1987. A few things >off-kilter, though -- some obviously non-factory, some looked very >factory: >The non-factory mods: >1) nose grille horizontal slats painted body color (non-factory) >2) red, yes, red, corner marker lamps, front and rear (non-factory) >3) body-colored side mirror housings (factory?) >The factory-looking mods: >1) NO black mouldings on the upper bumper area, front or rear. Both bumper >cover assemblies were painted full body color. >2) Color-matched door handles. This was neat. >3) And the Real kicker - the door side mouldings that are about >knee-height were not the black monsters with chrome tops like, say here: >http://www.audiquattroparts.com/huri%20at%20road%20america.jpg >But, rather they were small, maybe 1" wide body-colored mouldings that >were very nice looking. >I was looking for Tom Nas's "identify the audi" site, but couldn't find >it... is this a Euro 90q? INTERESTING. Very nice. Sounds like a custom paint job to me, as Euro 90qs never had more parts painted body colour than the US 4ks. My site's at http://members.tripod.lycos.nl/AudiJunk/ Regards, Tom -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20001002/955aba5c/attachment.htm From urquattro at phoenixdsl.com Mon Oct 2 01:31:06 2000 From: urquattro at phoenixdsl.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: pulling the rad on type $$ References: <20001001221949.6662.qmail@web2902.mail.yahoo.com> <39D7D5EF.43B5CD40@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <00e001c02c42$ba757f20$0201a8c0@pnix.net> > If you can get the Modine for a good price, fine. Any factory radiator that > lasts 13 years with little or no maintenance is fine in my book - do you > really expect to have the car another 10 years? ... IME the Modines are available for around the same price as the discounted dealer price. When I got the replacement for the 4kSQ from Carlsen it was an all metal rad made in the Netherlands. I'm sorry, but I don't happen to agree here on replacing with plastic at all, but if it is cool for you, go ahead! The thought that an overtightened radiator hose might lead to a warped head is enough to make up my mind ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) ... with experience on just about all of my Audis with an unexpected catastrophic failure of a plastic rad tank, heater hose or pump without warning in almost every case ... I've learnt my lesson! From pjberr at home.com Mon Oct 2 04:32:49 2000 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Plastic Radiator Repair Question and Story (Medium Long) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c02c42$f7b2fca0$3800000a@JATER> Mine broke off three months ago - quite irritating to say the least but it's been on for at least 6000 km no problem. In fact I just did a run to new york city and back 1780km in 27 hours (stopped in for some business). I had forgotten it broke until I just read your post. Peter 1990 200TQ > >snip > >I guess I should be grateful that the car breaks when and > >where it does. > >But I am getting sick of constantly working on the thing. > > > >All this leads to a question. Isn't there a fix for broken radiator > >outlets? Something like epoxying a neck in the remaining > >stub? Anybody > >ever do this? Anybody ever ride around for any length of > >time with the hose > >attached only to a 1 inch neck. (I want to get the radiator > >pressure tested > >before I go to all the trouble of replacing it.) From wbr90 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 01:37:58 2000 From: wbr90 at yahoo.com (Keith Lawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Carparts.com cupons Message-ID: <20001002073758.24615.qmail@web215.mail.yahoo.com> Try coolsavings.com. You can usually get the latest coupon codes there. Keith L. --- Erik Addy wrote: > Anyone know any good promotion (cupon) #'s for > carparts.com? I was > thinkn of using the $50 off $100 or more order, but > the # I had is no > longer valid. > > Thanks > Erik __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:37 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Fwd: AUDI 200 REAR FOG light Message-ID: >>Also the law in the UK allows their use only when > visibility is less than 50 metres and specifically > forbids their use in rain. > Does it?..i thought the law was vauge..."poor > visibility" EU harmonisation. Just be thankful we don't yet have the lastest - automatic 50kph limit in rain. > Also did that stuck plug ever come out?...and if so > how All five plugs were snapped off - not by me. The car's owner claims to have got them out without lifting the head. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:42 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder Message-ID: > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... If we're going to have these: a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few thousand posts? b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe to use this word, and my filters spot it. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:51 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: foglights Message-ID: >>> '93 V6 80 quattro >>Not according to ETKA. Only the right rear has a fog > light - the left rear with fog light is marked 'right > hand traffic only'. > just been to check..both light up. But, on closer > inspection, the wires to the OS one are part of the > car loom while the the wiring to the NS one is done in > household 3 core flex. I suppose Audi must have run > out of proper car wire. It's illegal and should not have passed its last MoT. Just don't pass a bored HM Fuzz patrol with them switched on - it's more than adequate excuse to pull you over and go through the book, including a breath test. Figure on about GBP40, three points, a 'present vehicle repaired within five days' chit and possibly even invalidation of your MoT. And that's if they don't find anything else. I know of one case (illegally low front foglights) where the police notified the DoT and the MoT testing station got a written warning. The MoT station we use (Crossroads Garage, Dunton Basset) would most definitely have failed the car. I know, because Kieth (the tester) failed a 20V ur-quattro that had been converted to LHD by simply adding the right fog light and not deleting the left one. I would strongly suggest you at least take the bulb out. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:51:56 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: changing o2 sensors-V6 motors Message-ID: > Forgot to add that pulling the battery not only is > safer, wipes the memory, but also resets the "learning > curve" of the ECU back to its base values. > I don't know if that is absolutely necessary, but it > certainly can't hurt. After all, the ECU started life > at the Audi factory in a car with new o2 sensors. We had one case of a 20V RR ur-quattro that had a defective inlet air temperature sender. The owner had it replaced but complained that the car still didn't perform. He took it back to the (specialist!) dealer three times. I met him at the Area K meeting one day and he explained this. I just pulled the ECU fuses, whistled 'Dixie' (the recommended tune) for a minute and put them back. The car was transformed. I have a letter from him framed on my office wall. > For those with CIS and earlier, and non-lambda models, > sorry for the BW. No, still good advice for some CIS cars - notably the MAC14 MC-2 engine. Non-volatile memories are not the sole preserve of Motronics. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:52:00 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Outer CV Joint Boot Replacement Message-ID: > Just finished checking the archives. Still a little confused. > Can anyone post the procedure for replacing the outer CV joint boot (on an > '88 5KSQ)? Other than "don't - take it to a dealer"? Half-shaft out, spread the circlip inside the joint, and pound away. Even with the circlip out of the way (there's a new one in the kit, so you can happily destroy the old one) the splines are a very tight interference fit - it's really a two-man job with proper tools. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Oct 2 09:52:05 2000 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start Message-ID: > I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > engine? Anything simple I should check on? Pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor arm is turning. I also have a neat little spark cell - it's a kind of neon tube you put in series with #1 spark plug to see if the engine's trying to fire. You can get much the same effect by tie-wrapping the removed plug to the engine hoist bracket. Don't handle the plug while you're doing this - a full belt from a solid state ignition system can be dangerous. -- Phil Payne UK Audi quattro Owners Club Phone +44 7785 302803 Fax: +44 7785 309674 From wbr90 at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 02:09:10 2000 From: wbr90 at yahoo.com (Keith Lawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Audi 200 rear seat wiring harness? Message-ID: <20001002080910.16154.qmail@web217.mail.yahoo.com> Hello, I'm the proud owner of a new-to-me '89 200tq avant. My first question of many is what are the wires running to the underside of the rear seat? Much thanx, Keith L. '81 4ks '86 4kcsq '89 200tq __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From Peter_Guthrie at agilent.com Mon Oct 2 11:26:17 2000 From: Peter_Guthrie at agilent.com (Peter Guthrie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: audifans.com mailing list memberships reminder References: Message-ID: <39D854B9.C2F291D8@agilent.com> isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk wrote: > > > This is a reminder, sent out once a month, ... > > If we're going to have these: > > a) Can we dispense with the .sig file added to every post? It's not > much on its own, but they sure add up to bandwidth over a few > thousand posts? > > b) How about 'ADMINISTRIVIA' for the title? Several lists I subscribe > to use this word, and my filters spot it. > c) Let's not put unencrypted passwords in the message! Peter From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Oct 2 08:11:17 2000 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: V8 Work Message-ID: <39D86D55.C61DE90@mestek.com> Well, I took the morning Saturday, and installed a new RPM sensor, and a new O2 sensor (now I'm averaging 20 mpg, instead of 12), and that seams to fix it. The car hasn't died out on me yet, and it's running much smoother, as well as starting every time. Now I have to order the Dist. caps. I took them off Saturday to have a look at them, and they have about 1/8" of corrosion on the electrode tabs. I buffed them clean with my drill and wire brush head, but I am planning on ordering new ones this week. Thanks for all your help. I was wondering if I could install generic cat's on the car. Thanks again for all your help. Theron J. Bliss Massachusetts 1990 V8 Quattro 194,000 Miles From Thefredx at aol.com Mon Oct 2 09:18:27 2000 From: Thefredx at aol.com (Thefredx@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge Message-ID: <6d.a00f708.2709d713@aol.com> no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot light does not report trouble! this car is not on the road yet...i just bought it (crunched front pass fender s.b. easy fix) ive owned a urq for 9 yrs so i figured by now i've gotten used to "audi hell"! :-o any help out there for a cheap pass side headlight? car is pearl w/stock pearl rims (not fuchs) 2 owner 128kmiles also, this car has low black rubber deck spoiler...looks factory; i've never seen one on a 5k. any info on this spoiler? From magliocc at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 2 06:20:10 2000 From: magliocc at rocketmail.com (William Magliocco) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: still correcting & being corrected (was adaptive ECU) Message-ID: <20001002122010.10596.qmail@web2903.mail.yahoo.com> Now, Phil adds to the equation...again, I've never owned a MAC-14 ECU equipped car (MC-2 motor)! But, on the subject of non-volatile memory, I will assert that a memory circuit that you can wipe by simply removing power _IS_ VOLATILE! The ECU is simply obtaining some of its power sources straight from the battery rather than through key switches, relays, etc. I've worked on a tremendous amount of electronic gear with backup batteries (often lithium) used for memory, product configuration, clock/calendars, ad nauseam. It is my understanding that true "non-volatile" memory means you have memory that won't change state when all power is removed. There was one group of products that had a very stringent method to change said battery...if you got it wrong, you needed to send the product back to the factory for reprogramming. As I stood corrected, my older gasoline powered V-A-G cars had the simpler ECUs...my thinking did not extend beyond the 1986 5000 kT sitting outside (with bad diff), or the '88 VW Fox (hardly a high-tech ECU by today's standards)... in that latter case, the ECU was not even able to tell me when the coolant temp sensor failed in "cold" mode. Had to diagnose it by the book...cold the car was ok, but when warm, way too rich with attendant driveability problems. The ECU had no diagnostics. I think it was all linear ICs inside the box too. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From BSWANN at arinc.com Mon Oct 2 09:35:44 2000 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B10057671B0@exanpmb1.arinc.com> I intend to re-torque "properly" when all gets re-assembled. As I now have the engine mounted on a proper stand and not dangling, it will be easier to control. I believe it is easier to tighten to torqued specification than to break the friction of the bolt that has been on for years, and in my case of performing a partial overhaul, this was the best way. Regards, Ben Swann 87.5 GT Coupe engine for 4KQ -----Original Message----- From: james accordino [mailto:ssgacc@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, September 30, 2000 10:42 AM To: Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN) Cc: audi list Subject: Re: re. Timing Belt and the Bolt... --- "Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)" wrote: > > I tried several things incl. breaker bar. > Well I borrowed a high torque impact wrench (not my > cheesy SAMS special). > Brapp Brapp - it was off so fast I couldn't believe > I wasted so much time > trying another way. > > 1 vote for the impact wrench. Before I even knew any better, I took mine off like that. CP gun with about 550 ft. lbs. "true" torque. It was off in about 2 seconds. I believe you could damage the key or keyway, but probably could by hand as well. Phil is right about needing to lock the crank to reinstall it correctly though. I cheated by using Loctite blue and the gun to reinstall. I'm NOT recommending this and will probably do it correctly next time. BTW, you can gauge torque surprising accurately with a gun when you become very used to the sound and frequency of the blows. The "cadence" if you will. This assumes you use a quality gun at a constant air pressure, and have a good torque wrench to verify the values occasionally. This will establish your reference and "gauge" your ear occasionally. Again, I'm NOT advocating this, I just believe it is possible. Jim Accordino 2nding the motion From damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca Mon Oct 2 09:36:03 2000 From: damien_gaboury at uqac.uquebec.ca (Damien Gaboury) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: Instrument cluster dead: solved References: <20000928233515.12044.qmail@web2906.mail.yahoo.com> <39D3FD57.FAB02249@abraxis.com> <001c01c02a12$48d6f9c0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> <002201c02a38$797f60a0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> Message-ID: <004701c02c6d$53aa48e0$01c9d484@uqac.uquebec.ca> Thank to the numerous peoples (Todd, Steven, Elliot, Ottar, Dan Z..) that have suggested various solutions for solving my problem. As expected, the problem was related to the wire harness in the truck. 6 of the 7 wires were broken and they were all together in short circuit. I have spited the harness and added a section of wire for all the seven in order to ensure good flexibility in the hinge. The reparation involve soldering of new wire sections that I have grouped under a rubber tubing to protect them. The modification looks stock. For the benefice of the list, below are the problems encountered in relation to the short circuit in the truck wiring harness: 1- Erratic operation of the central looking doors when opening and closing the truck; 2- Alarm doesn't want to be armed sometime. 3- Burned fuse on the licence plate light. 4- Finally the burning of the instrument cluster fuse: everything "dead" including speedometer, odometer, tachometer, clock, warning lights, and the all the gauges (water temp, oil temp, voltmeter, oil pressure and fuel). Hope that the information will help other peoples. Damien Gaboury, PhD Scientifique de recherche Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem ----- Original Message ----- From: Damien Gaboury To: Damien Gaboury ; Cc: Sent: Friday, September 29, 2000 1:12 PM Subject: Instrument cluster dead: update and help > Car: 90SQ 1993, V6-12V 2.8L > > Going to work this morning, I looked at my instrument cluster (dash) and > discovered that it was dead. All instruments were dead. During the lunch > time, I have performed some checks and bought some new fuses. Effectively, > it was the fuse. I replaced it, and it burned out again. Looking at the > situation as a scientist, I realized that the fuse burn out when and only > when I engage the reserve speed (manual). Ouf... > > That a good observation, because, as every bodies known, resolving > electrical problems on Audi is commonly expensive in time and money. > > I have to mention again that I don't have yet the Bentley manual for this > car 90 1993 (it will be available soon). Anyway, any gurus have some tips > for me ? As a way to look up, I know that I have open-circuit problems with > a wire harness in my truck (plate light fuse burned, central looking doors > operate erratically when I open the truck.). That sounds good considering > that the reverse lights use that wire set. However, I have problem to figure > out the electrical link with the instrument cluster and the reverse lights. > > Any help please before the week-end. At the point, I try to use only forward > speed. > > Damien Gaboury, PhD > Scientifique de recherche > Consortium de Recherche en Exploration Min?rale (CONSOREM) > Universit? du Qu?bec ? Chicoutimi > 555 Boul. de l'Universit?, Chicoutimi, Qc, Canada, G7H 2B1 > e-mail: damien_gaboury@uqac.uquebec.ca > Visitez notre site web: http://depcom.uqac.uquebec.ca/consorem > > _______________________________________________ > Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com > To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery > please visit the web interface at > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > From radonut at yahoo.com Mon Oct 2 06:43:08 2000 From: radonut at yahoo.com (Kris Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: A4 fuel smell Message-ID: <20001002124308.21852.qmail@web3101.mail.yahoo.com> Greetings, I have recently began getting a strong gas smell from the rear of my A4 Avant immediately after parking and while driving, with the windows down. I have looked under the car, and there is no real evidence of a leak. I took the access panel over the pump off, and the smell of gas is very strong there, but no wetness. I understand that the gas tank has to vent somewhere, I just don't know where, and if it is normal, it sucks because the smell of gas in the cabin is nauseating at times. Any BTDT appreciated!! ===== Kris Hansen Pomfret Vermont 98 A4 quattro Avant 30v tiptronic 96 A4 quattro 12v 5 speed __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free! http://photos.yahoo.com/ From capalmer at nortelnetworks.com Mon Oct 2 09:55:21 2000 From: capalmer at nortelnetworks.com (capalmer@nortelnetworks.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: S6 - battery dieing, resolution Message-ID: <200010021255.IAA26116@dingo.engeast> And the answer was... bad battery. Split casing, one empty cell. So the sunroof gyrations were a symptom rather than a cause of the low battery. -- Chris Palmer (1995.5 S6 Avant) "Ashes to ashes, Sustaining IBM/Switched Protocols dust to dust, Nortel Networks if Lillee don't get you, capalmer@nortelnetworks.com Thommo must." From dave.head at worldnet.att.net Mon Oct 2 10:05:24 2000 From: dave.head at worldnet.att.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq...no charge References: <6d.a00f708.2709d713@aol.com> Message-ID: <39D88813.67CBCF0D@worldnet.att.net> Normally this is caused by the blue single wire coming off the alternator. You may want to pull and check the regulator/brushes also. Once you have the rear cooling cover off, its only 2 phillips head bolts. Have fun getting the cover off - those upper nuts are a pain. Thefredx@aol.com wrote: > no charge!... as in no alternator current at battery! however, the idiot > light does not report trouble! From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 10:22:46 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: It's always something...(longish) In-Reply-To: <004001c02c1f$8e94d220$5a9b56d1@default> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002092130.00aa2100@traverse.com> Even more thanks to Chris for providing a source anybody could point you to, Steve. At 11:19 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, Steve Jensen wrote: >Well, after being pointed to the exact procedure on Chris Miller's wonderful >page (courtesy of Kneale Brownson, thank you again Kneale), I _think_ I know >what's wrong with the no-start situation on the TQW. Swapping in the known >good battery from the sedan didn't fix it, so it probably is the splice. From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Oct 2 10:35:44 2000 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:06:09 2003 Subject: '90 80q no start In-Reply-To: <39D80363.D00E26FD@connix.com> References: <4.3.1.2.20001001220932.00bbec90@traverse.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20001002092435.00bc3100@traverse.com> I'm not familiar with the set-up in an 80, Alan, but on a predecessor 4Kq, it's two bolts to detach the starter. I'm presuming that if your starter whirrs, it's getting power. Of course, it could be inadequate power (you can test for voltage) or corroded contacts that don't let the power get to the solenoid. My procedure with starters (on vehicles prior to my association with Audis that began a decade ago--never had an Audi starter problem) has been to take them off the car, truck or tractor and take the into a starter repair service. A good one will lube/replace bearings, clean up contacts, etc., in addition to replacing the solenoid or whatever it needs. At 11:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: >Kneale, > >That sounds like it! Does the ignition switch activate a relay that sends the >starting current to the starter? Could one of the connections be corroded? >After I check those connections, how easy is it to remove, disassemble, and >lube the starter? > >Thanks, >Alan > >Kneale Brownson wrote: > > > Your starter is turning without engaging the teeth on the flywheel (the > > means by which it turns the engine over). More than likely the starter is > > corroded and/or dry of lubrication internally so that the solenoid cannot > > advance the gear. So the gear spins (the whirring sound) but does not move > > ahead to contact the flywheel. > > > > At 08:39 PM 10/01/2000 -0400, alan page wrote: > > > > >Hello, > > > > > >I've got a weird problem with my '90 80q. It's been sitting for about a > > >month, and now when I try to start it, I only get an electric motor > > >sound; I'm assuming it's the starter. I jumped the car to make sure the > > >battery had enough juice to turn the engine over sufficiently. It almost > > >sounds like the starter is not connected to the engine-no engine noise > > >at all. Does the starter turn the crankshaft? How does it connect to the > > >engine? Anything simple I should check on? > > > > > >Thanks, > > >Alan Page > > >Sandy Hook, CT USA > > > > > >'94 S4 > > >'90 80q