central door lock/unlock

David Thoresen david at epicfoto.com
Fri Apr 6 08:58:56 EDT 2001

Personally on my Ur-Q I had a local car alarm shop replace all my locks with
electric remote locks... much better system... and it was cheaper than
getting a new vacuum pump.  On your system you have a leak in either the
hoses or one of the lock actuators themselves, you have to listen carefully
to see which one it is by putting your ear up against the door to see if you
can hear a hissing noise.  if not you will have to open the doors one at a
time and disconnect the actuator, and plug it (screw works good) to see
which one is faulty.

This is a problem you will run into frequently now until they all get
replaced.  once one goes they all go soon thereafter.  so Id opt on getting
the electric power locks ($30.00 each door and about $60.00 to install on
each door - alarm will run you about $200 installed)

'85 Ur-2Fast 

on 4/6/01 7:58 AM, Mike Arman at armanmik at n-jcenter.com wrote:

> Car is 86 5Ks, central locking operates from driver's door only (later
> models work on both front doors, this one is driver's door only).
> Problem is this: When locking the car, the knobs move down and the vacuum
> door-locking motor under the rear seat stops running in a few seconds.
> However, when unlocking the car, even though the knobs move up promptly and
> the car unlocks nicely, the motor runs for at least two minutes.
> How long should the motor run for each up cycle and each down cycle? Is it
> also possible that I've never noticed the motor running because usually,
> after I start the engine, I can't hear the vacuum motor running anyway, and
> it is working normally?
> Any ideas as to where to look for this problem (if it even is a problem)?
> Best Regards,
> Mike Arman

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