[urq] urq seen - Euro bumper options...LONG
smitty at pcrealm.net
Fri Jan 12 12:01:51 EST 2001
The bumper shocks are replacable. They are not welded to the car.
"Crushing" the shocks is really not a good description of what must be
done to shorten their length and move the bumper "in" toward the body.
It's not really a "crush tube" it is a real hydraulic shock allowing
deflection in only one direction. Once collapsed it's toast.
I have recessed the rear bumper on my '83 urQ, but have installed a euro
bumper on the front of the car since I wanted the fogs and turn signals.
The rear b/shocks need to be removed from the car to shorten the length.
They are constructed similar to a suspension shock in the that they
have a top sleeve that fits over the hydraulic cylinder, just like a
"Chebby". The top sleeve is int. threaded and the shaft from the hyd.
(approx. 1/2" dia??) is ext. threaded to match. The top sleeve is
along the length of the shaft by turning "in or out" and is them secured
with a lock nut. Turning the sleeve toward shock cyl. doesn't give the
desired result since the shaft isn't threaded along its entire length.
This outer sleeve has a three bolt flange wrapped around it's outer
that attaches the shock to the body of the car.
Most of the modded bumpers I have seen have been "adjusted" by removing
the top sleeve (unscrewing?) and drilling out the internal
thread. You then cut a spacer sleeve,to slip over the shaft on the shock
portion, that prevents the sleeve from slipping completely down the
The sleeve length varies, depending on how far you want to recess the
bumper.(use the "Gill Marks" on the side of the bumper as a gauge).
When it's where you want it (trial fitting a few times) the
spacer sleeve is placed on the shaft, the outer sleeve slipped over
the spacer and it's all secured with a flat washer and double nutted.
The shock can probably be restored to original condition by welding
a nut over the drilled out threaded hole, if you are worried about
This is not a half hour job,believe me. The bumper fascia is attached
to the bumper beam with allen head cap screws accessed via the
removable plugs in the fascia. These corrode and will break off or
the recessed allen head will slip. Since you can't see much from the
rear side either, precise application of your favorite penetrant is
difficult. The bumper beam is attached to the shock with two studs.
These studs are held captive in a small plate, the heads don't
turn so the nuts have to be removed from the rear.
The actual shock is attached to the body by three bolts and it's mating
surface sealed with a gasket.
I did not remove the rear spoiler to do this task,but I probably would
if I do it again........
It's hard to describe in words (for me atleast), so.......any questions
I would be happy to answer.
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