Fw: 1990 Coupe Quattro
s1wood at attglobal.net
Wed Jun 27 20:09:00 EDT 2001
I don't think this made it the first time around because I e-mailed from my
work address and not my subscribed list.
> From: scott.wood at bankofamerica.com
> To: dfautohaus at aol.com; mdaniels at ivy-rose.com
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com; s1wood at attglobal.net; audi20v at rennlist.org
> Subject: FS: 1990 Coupe Quattro
> Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2001 1:07 PM
> Okay, this is long. I believe in being honest and want anyone interested
> know everything there is to know.
> I also attached the original e-mail at the bottom of this.
> For what it's worth, I have window sticker, original owners manual, etc.
> Also, this car is black w/tan leather. My opinion (mine) is that this is
> the best color for this car based on the wrap around tail lights and the
> black strip at the bottom of the car.
> Also, get back to me ASAP as there is interest in the car. I want
> to buy this that really wants one and hope the price can be worked out.
> don't have a picture/pictures up yet but hope to in the next couple of
> I am pretty detailed here and don't want to scare anyone. I think
> will definately be favorable to me. I am probably going through this
> much more thouroughly than most people do when they go to buy a car, so
> The good news (there really isn't any bad news) is everything is original
> and works. The headlight washers, the lights, the radio, the heated
> the a/c, the heater, the power windows and mirrors, the sunroof, the rear
> wiper, the rear defrost, the cruise, the diff lock, the winshield
> the in dash computer, etc. I don't even know what else to list.
> everything is functional.
> I also have, to go with the car, A BENTLEY, new parts - timing belt
> water pump(OEM-German), idler tensioner, a/c belt (Audi), alternator belt
> -this one I actually installed because the old one was squeeling (Audi),
> power sterring belt (Audi), bushings for rear control arms(Audi), rear
> joints(OEM), fuel filter (Audi), a couple of oil filters (Audi),
> rotor (Audi), K&N cone filter and brackets that I had on for about a
> in California but took off and reinstalled the original stuff when I
> out that great state wouldn't pass my car with it on -don't know if true
> not, but I didn't want to take chances. There may be other things I
> think of at the moment.
> A few items of note: This is a late model build 1990, so it came with
> rear stabilizer and the cooler strut style of two piece with the cast
> control arms - not the stamped steel ones. The air box assembly and
> emissions in the engine bay are also the later style - I'll assume
> This is in sections. What have I fixed/repaired/replaced/maintained.and
> What is wrong.
> Here is some more info:
> Oil and filter changed every 3-5k miles with Mobil 1 synthetic and
> filter (from dealer)
> timing belt was replaced at 90k miles - about due again (depending
> your view of 'when it should be done')
> - for the record, the reason I had it replaced so late was 1. the
> owners manual service schedule never showed it to be required, 2.
> Audi service department was adament about it not being required, 3. I
> decided, based on other makes
> recomendations, etc. that I wanted it done.
> regular maintenance done on a general adhearance to service
> new plugs, wires and rotor cap at 138k miles (3rd set of plugs,
> change of wires and cap)
> rotor was cleaned up but not replaced (I didn't want to break
> and understand it needs to be broken off to replace). Have new
> rotor in box if you want to replace.
> car has passed emissions flawlessly to date. I haven't done it this
> year yet, not due until July.
> the left CV joint failed (due to split boot and long drive
> to Kansas City- at 70-80mph -highway speed-) the good news is, it
> didn't fail while driving -I parked at a restaraunt and when I went to
> the car it must have had a ball get loos and popped the race- and I
> replaced not only that one, but the right front one as well just to be
> I replaced the control arm bushings and ball joints on the front
> I have these for the rear, but haven't done these yet.
> The struts seem to be fine, no bounce when you push on the fender.
> Again, these have probably lasted due to mostly highway driving and no
> I replaced the front rotors with cross drilled Brembos at about 110k
> with new pads and hardware. Pads appear to last me about 60-70k
> Probably due to the fact I don't drive this car aggressively. I replaced
> the originals at about 65k and these when I changed the rotors (even
> though they weren't worn out). The rotors had warped -pulsing felt when
> braking- was reason for replacement.
> Rear pads were replaced at somewhere in the 120-130k range. These
> second set, first were with the first fronts.
> I re-sealed the rear lenses in 1997 and have not had a leak since.
> According to what I read on the lists, this is a very common problem.
> There is no damage due to this.
> Driver side door window regulator received a new cable assembly
> part- to fix this common problem.
> Driver side door lock was replaced with new assembly to repair this
> common problem.
> Airbag recall was done and now have problem of warning light being
> for about a minute when car is started.
> Car has been washed and waxed fairly regularly in it's life so paint
> glossy -with a couple of places-hood front, very minor door dings (I
> two). I washed and waxed by hand almost every time it has been cleaned,
> it hasn't been beaten by automatic car washes. Since 1996 it has
> out of the sun in a parking garage -I work downtown.
> I'll let you know if I think of anything else I have
> other than general maintenance (air filter, etc.) if I can think of
> Now for the appearance and broken.
> I would say the original Speedline wheels are about a 7-8 out of 10,
> but I don't have anything to compare to and this is subjective.
> Some dash lights need to be replaced.
> Coolant temp gauge is erratic -works, doesn't- I have seen on the
> that it could be a faulty sensor or wire connection. I don't know
> haven't tried to fix.
> The rubber molding strip is beginning to look a bit old. It looks
> from a blackness perspective, but doesn't lay perfectly flat as
> new and I would be inclined to replace. This one item would enhance the
> 'new' look I think.
> The right fog light lense is busted, but the lights still work. I
> had no need to use them in the last 5-6 years so I never replaced it.
> The primary reason is the crazy $185 (last time I checked) cost since you
> can't just replace the lense.
> The hood has normal rock chip damage on the front lip. I would
> this is an easy fix and I would think would be common for a 11 year
> There is one very minor dent -about 1 inch long- just above the
> on the drivers side (the strip of metal between the tailight lense
> the bumper - on the drivers side, not in the back) where it appears that
> someone was too close either pulling in or out of a parking spot. The
> level seems to indicate a SUV height vehicle but I don't know, they never
> left a note. They probably didn't even notice. This is almost
> unless you really look, so I never had that repaired.
> The interior is very good to excellent with a couple of exceptions.
> The steering wheel looks worn on top. Almost like someone cleaned
> with something they shouldn't have. Of course, it could be just worn.
> The shift knob is likewise worn and looks like it could use a
> or something. These are really pretty minor, but want to be forthcoming
> everything I know.
> The mats are original. Backs are perfect, fronts are 7-8 of 10.
> Pretty good shape overall.
> The seats are a lttle worn looking at the bolsters, but no tears or
> rips or anything and are otherwise in fine shape. The rear seats
> again, perfect.
> The drivers side mirror has a little (about a 1/8th area at bottom)
> delamination or whatever it is that causes it to not reflect. It is
> problem in use and is something I probably wouldn't worry about.
> The front windshield has a stone impact (looks like a circle) that
> there when I bought it in 1994. I suppose I could have insisted
> do something about it, but it is over on the passenger half and doesn't
> cause me any issue. I was more worried they would screw up a
> job than the spot itself, so I left it as it was. In 7 years it has not
> changed, so I guess it isn't an issue.
> Well, that is it. Please let me know what you think and keep in mind - I
> being 100% forthcoming and don't want someone 'discovering' a problem I
> didn't tell them about. I hope I am not being too straight and putting
> anyone off, so keep in mind it is 11 years old. It really does look
> overall and is in good shape.
> Keep perspective. I don't 'need' to sell it and am not a salesman.
> Hopefully, if I do sell it, the individual will enjoy the uniqueness and
> quality and pleasure that I have enjoyed over these many years of
> Take care,
> Scott Wood
> > Scott Wood wrote:
> > >
> > > Evening All,
> > >
> > > I am interested in selling my 1990 CQ and was hoping to sell it to a
> > > lister. Car is 100% original with no track time. Paint and body are
> > > good, interior is very good and everything works. Car is licensed
> > > passes emissions with flying colors. It is Black with tan interior.
> > > heaters are functional, a/c is functional, etc. Mileage is right at
> > > and it has been pretty well cared for (as much as I have time for).
> > > changes are regular and done with Audi original filters and Mobil 1.
> > > have all receipts and some extra oil filters as well as some other
> > > I have really been wanting to do the erS2 sort of thing, but don't
> > > getting to that any time soon (just bought the wife a new car) and I
> > > need my Cherokee as a tow vehicle.
> > >
> > > If anyone is interested, I would like to hear from you. I have owned
> > > full time since 1991, as well as a lister for 4 or 5, and enjoy it
> > > immensely, but I am not a collector and three is really too many for
> > > driveway and garage. As you can imagine, there is no problem with
> > > I have been in California (Bay area) and Charlotte for the past 6
> > >
> > > NADA high is 8550 and average is 7525. I would give back to a lister
> > > to 1550 in essence, because I think my rock bottom would be 7000. It
> > > easy with me, no negotiating, I will give the extra back without the
> > > by selling at a fixed price. If anyone thinks this is a good enough
> > > let me know.
> > >
> > > Also, I installed two new front CV joints and replaced the front
> > > arm bushings. The rear probably need to be replaced, and I have the
> > > but haven't done them yet.
> > >
> > > Call me or e-mail me for more details, etc.
> > >
> > > day time phone: 704-388-6880
> > > work e-mail: scott.wood at bankofamerica.com (easiest to reach me by
> > >
> > > Thanks folks.
> > >
> > > Scott Wood
> > > 1990 CQ
> > > Charlotte, NC
> > >
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