From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Thu Mar 1 00:06:29 2001 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:37 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: <012a01c0a1e3$9287df00$de6fa8c0@jim> This seems like something dreamed up by a film director but unfortunately...... Early this morning a guy set out in a Land Rover and trailer combination to transport a Renault car cross-country to Manchester. Part way through his journey he lost control of his vehicles which left the M62 motorway at a point where there were no guard-rails and slid down an embankment on to the main East Coast London-Scotland railway line. He got out of the Land Rover and phoned the emergency services using his mobile but within seconds a southbound passenger train 20 minutes out of York and travelling at 125mph, hit the vehicles, derailed and skidded onto the northbound track. Moments later, a freight train heading north loaded with 1,000 tonnes of coal, ploughed into the wreckage at 60mph. 13 dead. I can't even start to imagine how that driver feels now - as for myself, that south-bound passenger train just happens to be the one that I catch when I visit my company's London office. Jim Haseltine From daveglu at hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 01:33:13 2001 From: daveglu at hotmail.com (David Glubrecht) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:38 2003 Subject: Project VW/4K Message-ID: Having played with valve timing adjustments a fair amount, a full tooth is almost always too far. The only way to try different valve timing adjustments is to get an adjustable timing sprocket ~$100. One for a rabbit/golf will fit. I have one on my 4kq and would generally agree that on a single cam motor that at best, when you gain on top end, you loose on bottom. Great for adjusting where your power band is but not how much. Very important in matching engine components. If your intake and exhaust are tuned for flow at high rpm, the cam should be timed for the same. Dave G _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From enzeder at home.com Thu Mar 1 02:12:52 2001 From: enzeder at home.com (Arryn Milne) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: timing belt change - advance/or not In-Reply-To: <03e501c0a211$84eb49d0$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> References: <288ED3A0030D8C4EAF193AE02220AEE41B0B9F@cxoexc12.americas.cpqcorp.net> <3A9D6D56.D6E87936@teleport.com> <3A9DB828.B1BBA73@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <4.2.2.20010301020720.025f6310@mail> I advanced the cam on my MC a tooth when I did the timing belt. Figured I'd go back if I didn't like it. Seat of the pants says more low end go (a little), and I vary rarely run over 5k, so I don't much care for the high end. If you're counting votes, mine is for it. Arryn At 10:36 PM 2/28/01 -0700, Zsolt wrote: > From the sound of it I should either leave it at the factory setting or get >an adjustable pulley. >Wonder if anyone run that on a 5ktq. > >Zsolt > >----- Original Message ----- > > > IIRC, each tooth on the cam gear is 8 degrees. Too much to move at one > > > IMO -- I agree on the 4 degrees thought. > > > > I just counted one (from an NG, wrong motor I suppose) and it had about > > 52 teeth (+/-1...) which would be 6.9 degrees/tooth. > > > > of course if the teeth don't line up "perfectly" that change how many > > degrees from exactly TDC the first tooth in each direction sets it. > > > > -- > > Huw Powell > > > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > > > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From zed123 at telusplanet.net Thu Mar 1 00:39:50 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: timing belt change - advance/or not References: <288ED3A0030D8C4EAF193AE02220AEE41B0B9F@cxoexc12.americas.cpqcorp.net><3A9D6D56.D6E87936@teleport.com><3A9DB828.B1BBA73@mediaone.net> <4.2.2.20010301020720.025f6310@mail> Message-ID: <042501c0a222$cc1fae70$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> So you don't find 1 whole tooth too much of an advancement? What kind of car do you have? Thanks, Zsolt ----- Original Message ----- From: Arryn Milne To: Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 12:12 AM Subject: Re: timing belt change - advance/or not > I advanced the cam on my MC a tooth when I did the timing belt. Figured > I'd go back if I didn't like it. Seat of the pants says more low end go (a > little), and I vary rarely run over 5k, so I don't much care for the high end. > If you're counting votes, mine is for it. > Arryn > > At 10:36 PM 2/28/01 -0700, Zsolt wrote: > > From the sound of it I should either leave it at the factory setting or get > >an adjustable pulley. > >Wonder if anyone run that on a 5ktq. > > > >Zsolt > > > >----- Original Message ----- > > > > IIRC, each tooth on the cam gear is 8 degrees. Too much to move at one > > > > IMO -- I agree on the 4 degrees thought. > > > > > > I just counted one (from an NG, wrong motor I suppose) and it had about > > > 52 teeth (+/-1...) which would be 6.9 degrees/tooth. > > > > > > of course if the teeth don't line up "perfectly" that change how many > > > degrees from exactly TDC the first tooth in each direction sets it. > > > > > > -- > > > Huw Powell > > > > > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > > > > > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > From cobram at juno.com Thu Mar 1 02:46:17 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: water pump bolt torque spec? Message-ID: <20010301.024618.-196171775.1.Cobram@juno.com> Keith Lawyer writes: > I've gotta replace the water pump in my '81 4k > tomorrow, 1.7l engine. Anyone know of the appropriate > torque spec upon replacement? Even a ballpark? Don't know what the factory spec is, I usually just tighten bolts by feel. But a rule of thumb is 15 ft/lbs for new bolts with clean holes, wait a while for any settling, then torque to between 20-25 ft/lbs. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Thu Mar 1 22:34:46 2001 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave.Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: bugatti veyron eb 16.4 announced at geneva In-Reply-To: <200103010222.VAA05629@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000c01c0a232$dd651e30$49c9a7cb@DellBoy> if there has been any doubt about the ultimate potential of the "w" engines, it can now be put to rest with announcement at the geneva show of the bugatti veyron eb 16.4 16 cylinders, "w" formation, 8 litres 4-cam, 64v, variable valve timing, direct petrol injection 4 turbos with a (water/air) charge cooler mounted on each cylinder head 1001 bhp, 885 lb ft between 2500-5500rpm. (736kw, 1,250nm) only 710mm long x 771mm high (28" x 30") ! mid-mounted (rear facing) ahead of the rear axle, fully visible from the outside. awd. available 2003. man, those vw engineers must be having a ball.... dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q From quattroking at hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 02:34:09 2001 From: quattroking at hotmail.com (The Quattro King) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: WTB: 1991 100Q Tranny Message-ID: I have a friend who is looking for a tranny for a 100Q from 1991. It is a 5 speed manual. Anyone have one available? How much? Where is it? please email me direct as I am not currently active on the list. quattroking@hotmail.com Thanx, Shayne P. 1972 MB 280 SEL 1984 4ksq 1991 v8q5 1991 200q Sedan 1992 S4 Parting: 1972 Mercedes Benz 280 SE 4.5 From roger-mounsey at webtv.net Thu Mar 1 05:51:12 2001 From: roger-mounsey at webtv.net (Roger Mounsey) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1140 - 15 msgs In-Reply-To: quattro-request@audifans.com's message of Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:29 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <1993-3A9E29A0-856@storefull-292.iap.bryant.webtv.net> Re: Youngblood You should note that audifans is more than just the list. If you check back to audifans.com, you will find recommended shops in your area and a large list of parts suppliers. If you wanna go fast, consider trading for a 200tq. Regards, Roger. -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: quattro-request@audifans.com Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1140 - 15 msgs Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:32:29 -0500 (EST) Size: 27853 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/9b6f639a/attachment.eml From alexaudi at kki.net.pl Thu Mar 1 12:20:56 2001 From: alexaudi at kki.net.pl (Aleksander Mierzwa) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: valve cover gasket In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.20010228164406.0079d580@trex2.oscs.montana.edu> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010301122056.02c53100@kki.net.pl> At 16:44 01-02-28 -0700, James Russell wrote: >I am a bit confused. I went to the Audi dealership, they said a valve >cover gasket runs about $37. I go on line and can find a valve cover set >with the semicircular plug for about $4-$6 online. Granted they are made >by different companies, but I am I missing something??? These gaskets are >about 15% of the cost at the dealership. Is there suppose to be a line of >bonding material on the gaskets or something. If the $6 dollar one is >about the exact same as the dealership, then I am going to order one up >right away. The $4-$6 gaskets are most likely cork ones. They don't seem to last very long. The dealer ones are rubber. $37 seems high to me, though. Last time I needed one I paid maybe $15. -- Aleksander Mierzwa Warsaw, Poland 87 5KT From colincohen at email.msn.com Thu Mar 1 06:19:27 2001 From: colincohen at email.msn.com (colin cohen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: %%TEST%% Message-ID: <030b01c0a242$536d09d0$0a0611ac@onesoft.com> Test #$% From colincohen at email.msn.com Thu Mar 1 06:22:40 2001 From: colincohen at email.msn.com (colin cohen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: ***test Message-ID: <030c01c0a242$547d1a40$0a0611ac@onesoft.com> ***test From jzwahlen at cerrejon.com Thu Mar 1 06:32:54 2001 From: jzwahlen at cerrejon.com (jzwahlen@cerrejon.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Porsche comments Message-ID: Although Audis are one of if not my only favorite sedan, owing in great part because of the quattro system, with two door coupes my heart belongs to Porsche. Check out my 1994 Porsche 968 http://www.968.net/registry/images/zwahlen_jim_01.jpg The front engine waterpumpers from P are simply perfectly balanced and perfect sports cars. My 968 has a 3.0L 4 cyl. (that's a big 4!) with 236HP and top track speed of 155mph. The 968 is a rare bird with just over 4000 imported to the US between 1992-95. Because of there rarity my 968 has held it's value or actually appreciated a little in the 2 years I've owned it. If you get the craving for a P, consider the 924/944/968 series as well as the 928. And of course the 911s are classics which will never go out of style. From jzwahlen at cerrejon.com Thu Mar 1 06:37:03 2001 From: jzwahlen at cerrejon.com (jzwahlen@cerrejon.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Was: city lights NOW: DUH! Message-ID: Let me be the first one to admit when I make a mistake (usually it's my wife). I was questioning you guys about city lights. Well, last night I checked my 99 VW Polo Classic and discovered it has city lights! I thought they were separate parking lights but they are integrated into the headlights. Signed Dumb 'Murcan South of the border. jazman From dritter at up.net Thu Mar 1 07:32:36 2001 From: dritter at up.net (dritter@up.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: ALMS in TX Message-ID: <200103011232.f21CWa508679@btc1.up.net> Greetings, If I missed previous discussions on this subject, I've missed it. I'm currently on a "no mail" option, stuck in TX doing some training. While dining at a resturant yesterday, I observed Audi sport, Porsche racing and Corvette racing support trucks passing in rapid succession on a nearby highway. Is the upcoming event on March 4th worth attending? Any local listers going to the Texas Speedway for this? A visit to the track website indicated that the tickets were fairly expensive. My schedule is pretty busy and I can only hope to break away for an afternoon, the morning is impossible for me. If this message is offensively formatted with html or some other, I apologize. I'm stuck using a web mail interface for this account. David --------------------------------------------- This message was sent via GetMail Check your up.net email: http://getmail.up.net From MCTXR4 at aol.com Thu Mar 1 07:53:23 2001 From: MCTXR4 at aol.com (MCTXR4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: In a message dated 02/28/2001 7:32:11 PM Eastern Standard Time, Jim@ur-q.freeserve.co.uk writes: > 13 dead. > > I can't even start to imagine how that driver feels now - as for myself, > that south-bound passenger train just happens to be the one that I catch > when I visit my company's London office. > Now I know why I read in the travel section of the paper a few days ago that train ridership was down in Britain and that the roads are suffering from increased car use. Mike Torio From BSWANN at arinc.com Thu Mar 1 08:06:06 2001 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: re. Irregular Idling MC Emission Test Problem Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B100576748D@exanpmb1.arinc.com> Verify that you are actually getting 12V to the cnter pin if the WOT switch. I had this problem, and after extensive trouble shooting and WOT/idle switch replacement, found the wires to the WOT/idle switch connector had broken. I was not getting controlled idle, or proper WOT operation. Ben '87 5Kcstqw [I have a late 1986 Audi 5000 CD Turbo Quattro. the car will not keep consistent rpm's between 1000-2000 rpm and between 2000-3000rpm. The test lasts two to three minutes at these varying 1000-3000 rpm levels. The motor, when held without load races up to over 3000 rpm, where it comfortably can maintain a consistent rpm level. Anything below 3000 rpm tends to either climb past this mark or if the throttle is gently lifted, drops by several hundred rpm. When driven, under load, the car does not exhibit any of these odd symptoms. If it was a FWD, it would surely pass the dyno pollution test without problems. I have checked Scott Mockrey's web site for help. The temperature sensor for the Idle Stabilizer Valve has been changed (new). The ISV valve has been changed with one from my other Audi Turbo (without this symptom). The wiring to the temperature sensor, ISV valve and ISV control unit checks out. I have even changed the ISV control unit. The car does not have any vacuum leaks that I am aware of. I have replaced or checked all of the lines to set the car up for the increase in boost. The car runs 1.8 bar of boost consistantly (Intended Acceleration ECU / WG Spring). It has a new throttle switch and multi-purpose temperature sensor. The idle problem occurs both when motor is hot and cold. Could it be the O2 sensor? If anyone has any other suggestions I would be greatful. Alex Nikolic 86 5000 CD TQ] From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Thu Mar 1 14:08:34 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Weird 10v turbo engine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > I checked out the engine in a late '89 200TQ today, and I found the > regular stuff, as dual knock sensors, water cooled turbo etc., but one > thing made me wonder. The engine block was stamped JY, which should be > a mechanical lifter, oil-cooled turbo engine from a mid 80s 200 > (Euro), but this engine had hydraulic lifters/head, dual knock sensors > and water cooled turbo. It looked like a late MC or an 1B engine.. > > What could this be? He has used a JY short block. But most turbos are water cooled. To my knowledge only the 84's wasn't watercooled. At least I have two complete JY from 85 that are watercooled. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From BSWANN at arinc.com Thu Mar 1 08:20:29 2001 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: re. audifans archive suggestion Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B100576748E@exanpmb1.arinc.com> Hear, hear! Ben I have an idea. How about a form or interface of some sort, that would allow subscribed listers who are reading posts from the archive site, to reply to a thread without having to copy and paste into their email client? You could insert your text into the box above or below the quoted text (also in the box), for example. It would only help people browsing and responding to threads, like I'm doing lately. Later, Ken From BSWANN at arinc.com Thu Mar 1 08:28:37 2001 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Door trim Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B100576748F@exanpmb1.arinc.com> Some of mine warped, and I had to use stainless steel screwws to hold them on. Clean well; Use adhesive caulk/ double stick rubber tape. Drill carefully - 1/16" bit, and #8 3/4 screws. 2 on each end - one at top, one at bottom. This definately won't come off. Downside - poking holes in the car. Ben '85 4Kcsq [I have a rear door trim piece that's bent and the trailing edge keeps lifting off. I've tried several adhesives, but it keeps detaching at highway speeds. I understand from postings here in the past that the adhesive used to mount these trim pieces make it impossible to detach them from a wreck and reinstall them without the chromed surface looking terrible.] From ssgacc at yahoo.com Thu Mar 1 05:38:50 2001 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Jorgen (was The Rack) In-Reply-To: <200102281154156.SM00210@default> Message-ID: <20010301133850.16418.qmail@web4403.mail.yahoo.com> --- "Tex Terry, II" wrote: > Jim - Do you have web site info for Jorgen you > mentioned below? > Thanks, Tex '83 5000 turbo auto > > After checking different options > > including used and rebuilding it myself, I replace > > both racks with rebuilds from Jorgen. I've been > very > > satisfied so far. 2 yrs. on one and about a year > and > > a half on the other. Apparently they put > stainless > > steel sleeves in their rack bodies where the alloy > > wears. They say they offer a lifetime warranty > (which > > I hope I'll never use) and were the cheapest by > > far.(excepting used) > > > > HTH > > Jim Accordino > > jorgenauto.com will get you there. From groa at Cinergy.com Thu Mar 1 08:54:41 2001 From: groa at Cinergy.com (Roa, Greg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Door trim Message-ID: <1260BB69CCBDD2119FB80008C7B1BF34051FB3F3@CINEX1> >Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 20:34:43 -0500 >To: "J Mawhinney" , > "Quattro list" >From: Kneale Brownson >Subject: Re: Door trim > > >I have a rear door trim piece that's bent and the trailing edge keeps >lifting off. I've tried several adhesives, but it keeps detaching at >highway speeds. I understand from postings here in the past that the >adhesive used to mount these trim pieces make it impossible to detach them >from a wreck and reinstall them without the chromed surface looking terrible. Can't remember who recommended doing this, but last week, someone suggested using a piece of the plastic strapping that is often used to bind paper or boxes together. It is thin plastic strapping about 1/2" wide. You fit this between the body and the trim strip and use it as a saw. Worked really well when I tried it. If you can't find any of this, fishing line was also suggested, but I haven't tried it. Greg Roa Cincinnati, OH 86' 4kcsq 93' 90CS 83' 944 From sbigelow at sprint.ca Thu Mar 1 08:59:39 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? References: <60.c07cc7a.27cf1f3a@aol.com> Message-ID: <008d01c0a257$dc553500$12896395@big1> CR= (V1+V2+V3+V4)/(V2+V3+V4) Where V1 is calculated swept volume, V2 is deck height volume, V3 is head gasket volume, and V4 is combustion chamber volume. Cutting pistons increases V2. Steve Bigelow, who found that FIAT X1/9 combustion chambers are remarkably well balanced from the factory. ----- Original Message ----- From: JShadzi@aol.com To: quattro@audifans.com Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 10:42 PM Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? Anyone familiar with doing this? Know how to calculate it or someone who can? I have a high compression motor I want to turbo charge, and want to lower the compression this way..it is an 82.5mm bore, so no low compression pistons are available. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/b3f424ab/attachment.htm From tpsidders1 at netzero.net Thu Mar 1 08:08:11 2001 From: tpsidders1 at netzero.net (Tim Sidders) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: UNCONTROLLABLE IDLE....HELP!!!! Message-ID: <005e01c0a269$d21485c0$7a632e9c@computer> Hi all I just had the weirdest thing happen to my 87 5kcsqt, while driving home last night exiting the freeway, pulled up to a stop light, noticed the car is idleing at 3000 rpm...try to kick the throttle down...maybe its stuck...nope. So I wait until this morning to check and see if the idle screw has worked its way loose....nope. Checked all hoses(visually with a good feel) to see if any are cracked to make for a vaccum leak....nothing....checked the throttlebody to see if it's sticking....nope....checked the throttle cable to see if its getting bound up....nope;(. The Idle screw seems to have no affect at all! The only thing I can think of is.. a couple of weeks ago my mechanic, tweeked my fuel/air mixture so I could pass emmisions, was running too rich, leaned it out a bit ....haven't had it tested yet....then last week my fuel pump took a crap.. so I replaced it. I've checked for any codes that maybe stored., but nothing is coming up!! I really need your help gang, I haven't the faintest clue what this could be?????Thanks for any input in advance. Thanks Tim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/ab36164d/attachment.htm From Sebastian.Costin at connex.ro Thu Mar 1 16:07:11 2001 From: Sebastian.Costin at connex.ro (Sebastian Costin) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: air intake element Message-ID: Hi, On my 1988 A80, 1800cmc injection, there is a cone-shaped rubber... something in the right headlamp assembly that connects to a wide hose going to the air filter casing (the thing looks to me like it's narrowing the air intake path). The question is: what effects would removing this item could have (in terms of how the engine would perform, mpg, something, anything?), as I've done some work on the headlamp assembly and I can't seem to be able to refit this rubber thing properly (it always ends up strangulated or twisted) - so I'm contemplating removing it entirely. Any thoughts? Thx, Sebastian From ackramer at hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 14:13:31 2001 From: ackramer at hotmail.com (Alan Kramer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. Message-ID: Funny, I'm starting on a turbo conversion on a coupe too and was wondering the same thing...but from a different angle. Would a 1987.5 tranny be advantageous over the stock coupe 093 tranny? Alan '83 CGT '86 4kcsq '85 CGT <-> '87 5kt '85, '86 CGT (parts) >From: "Mark Rutherford" <5kcstq@sisna.com> >To: >Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. >Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:49:22 -0000 > >I finally decided to do a turbo conversion on my 86 coupe GT. I ordered a >MC from Chris Semple at force 5 on Monday. Pulled the original motor out >on >Tuesday. While I wait for the motor to get here I was wondering about the >gearing on the original transmission. I think I might like to raise the >final drive a little while it is apart. Is there a easy way to raise the >gear ratios. I was thinking of using parts out of a 5k transmission if >they >are compatable. Any ideas out there, or will the original gearing be OK. > >Any opinions welcome > >5kcstq@sisna.com > > > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From edshred2000 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 1 06:16:50 2001 From: edshred2000 at yahoo.com (ed armstrong) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. In-Reply-To: <002501c0a1ae$c93d67c0$7527fea9@5kcstqsisna.com> Message-ID: <20010301141650.14206.qmail@web3805.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mark: Who is Chrs Semple at force 5 ?? and how much did you pay for your MC. Did it come compelet with manifolds and turbo ?? I'm in the market for a used MC short or long block. -ed --- Mark Rutherford <5kcstq@sisna.com> wrote: > I finally decided to do a turbo conversion on my 86 > coupe GT. I ordered a > MC from Chris Semple at force 5 on Monday. Pulled > the original motor out on > Tuesday. While I wait for the motor to get here I > was wondering about the > gearing on the original transmission. I think I > might like to raise the > final drive a little while it is apart. Is there a > easy way to raise the > gear ratios. I was thinking of using parts out of a > 5k transmission if they > are compatable. Any ideas out there, or will the > original gearing be OK. > > Any opinions welcome > > 5kcstq@sisna.com > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From edshred2000 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 1 06:16:50 2001 From: edshred2000 at yahoo.com (ed armstrong) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. In-Reply-To: <002501c0a1ae$c93d67c0$7527fea9@5kcstqsisna.com> Message-ID: <20010301141650.14206.qmail@web3805.mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mark: Who is Chrs Semple at force 5 ?? and how much did you pay for your MC. Did it come compelet with manifolds and turbo ?? I'm in the market for a used MC short or long block. -ed --- Mark Rutherford <5kcstq@sisna.com> wrote: > I finally decided to do a turbo conversion on my 86 > coupe GT. I ordered a > MC from Chris Semple at force 5 on Monday. Pulled > the original motor out on > Tuesday. While I wait for the motor to get here I > was wondering about the > gearing on the original transmission. I think I > might like to raise the > final drive a little while it is apart. Is there a > easy way to raise the > gear ratios. I was thinking of using parts out of a > 5k transmission if they > are compatable. Any ideas out there, or will the > original gearing be OK. > > Any opinions welcome > > 5kcstq@sisna.com > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From KC3565L at sprintmail.com Thu Mar 1 07:10:00 2001 From: KC3565L at sprintmail.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: 4K trans in denver area Message-ID: <3A9E6648.8F3DA3E@sprintmail.com> That was me. Now it appears that the DPO may have put 90W hypoid grease in the automatic trans. I am going to finish removing the trans and tear it down before I invest in another one. I may be able to get away with giving it a good cleaning. Thanks for your help. Dave >From: "Mark Rutherford" <5kcstq@sisna.com> >To: >Subject: 4K trans in denver area >Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:01:11 -0000 > >A week or so ago someone was looking for a transmission for a 4000 in the >denver area. There is one on e-bay in Arizona. Here is the link > >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5640257>42 > >5kcstq@sisna.com From KC3565L at sprintmail.com Thu Mar 1 07:18:09 2001 From: KC3565L at sprintmail.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: timing belt change - advance/or not References: <200103011055.FAA18068@audifans.com> Message-ID: <3A9E6831.B799F83C@sprintmail.com> For what it's worth: Mercedes Benz has offset keys for fine tuning the cam timing on its older OHC engines. I haven't had mine apart lately, but I recall it being about the same size as the one on my Audi. Might be worth looking into if you don't want to invest in an adjustable pulley. Dave > Subject: Re: timing belt change - advance/or not > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 22:36:09 -0700 > > >From the sound of it I should either leave it at the factory setting or get > an adjustable pulley. > Wonder if anyone run that on a 5ktq. > > Zsolt From sbigelow at sprint.ca Thu Mar 1 09:37:37 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: timing belt change - advance/or not References: <200103011055.FAA18068@audifans.com> <3A9E6831.B799F83C@sprintmail.com> Message-ID: <019c01c0a25d$2a9a7e00$12896395@big1> As does any American V-8 speed shop, for cam tuning chevys. Peanut$. > For what it's worth: Mercedes Benz has offset keys for > fine tuning the cam timing on its older OHC engines. > > >From the sound of it I should either leave it at the factory setting or get > > an adjustable pulley. > > Wonder if anyone run that on a 5ktq. From Mike.Dewar at uk.sun.com Thu Mar 1 14:45:13 2001 From: Mike.Dewar at uk.sun.com (Michael Dewar - Sun Scotland) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Rear brake not releasing correctly Message-ID: <200103011445.OAA13418@anubis.UK.Sun.COM> Hi all, Hoping someone can advise on a small problem. Patient is an S2 coupe with Girling rear calipers. The handbrake arm can be moved freely by hand and with the handbrake off, the arm can be moved freely towards the stop. If the handbrake is applied and then released, the arm does not return to the same position against the stop. It stops (no pun intended) about 1cm short and therefore does not release the piston from the disc properly. What would cause this ? Regards, Mike From texactii at csonline.net Thu Mar 1 09:56:28 2001 From: texactii at csonline.net (Tex Terry, II) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: bolt torque spec Message-ID: <200103011004328.SM00210@default> Keith - in answer to your message below, the following is from my spec book: (first column is bolt diameter in inches, second column is torque lb-ft, third column is torque n-m) 1/4 9 12 5/16 18 24 3/8 32 43 7/16 50 68 1/2 75 102 9/16 110 149 5/8 150 203 3/4 265 359 7/8 420 569 1 640 868 Hope this helps. I do not know what size the water pump bolts are, so I included multiple sizes. Tex 83 Audi 5000 Turbo auto (non-quattro). > > Message: 5 > Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:23:22 -0800 (PST) > From: Keith Lawyer > Subject: water pump bolt torque spec? > To: quattro@audifans.com > > I've gotta replace the water pump in my '81 4k > tomorrow, 1.7l engine. Anyone know of the appropriate > torque spec upon replacement? Even a ballpark? > Also anyone parting an '81ish 4k? > > Thanx, > Keith L. > '81 4k/'86 4kq/'86 5ktq/'89 200tqa > From tbliss at mestek.com Thu Mar 1 09:57:36 2001 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: V8 Displacement Message-ID: <3A9E6360.DECE554A@mestek.com> Ok, here's my chance to sound like a complete retard. I was curious about a couple of aspects to increase output of my 3.6 liter motor. I have heard that porting and polishing, and blue printing and balancing would greatly improve the output and response of my motor. Here are my questions on that: What is involved in doing this? Will it really make much difference? What kind of costs should I expect? (will I have to sell my kids?) Secondly, I had heard that the 3.6 and 4.2 liter motors have the same block. Does this mean I can get 4.2 heads, and bolt those onto my motor, and have a 4.2 with 270 +/- hp? Do cams do much for these motors? TIA (from a guy who obviously has no clue. Hey, I've been a 4 banger VW guy all my life) Theron J. Bliss Massachusetts 1990 V8 Quattro 198,000 miles Lago Blue, Grey Connolly leather http://sites.netscape.net/theronbliss/homepage From Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com Thu Mar 1 09:06:26 2001 From: Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com (Livolsi, Stephane) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Powder Coat Group purchase? Toronto... Message-ID: <3F24BBFCF4B0D411972E0060948A3BAF9F64D0@IGMAIL2> welllll......I don't know, if we were talking about powdercoating them Yellow, then maybe we could talk......:) It has been scientifically proven that Yellow automotive parts add significant horsepower to a vehicle. I haven't seen any figures on Polyester White.... Stephane > ---------- > From: Dave Hord[SMTP:spokes@mail.the-wire.com] > Sent: February 28, 2001 3:22 PM > To: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Powder Coat Group purchase? Toronto... > > A good friend of mine and I both need to get a set of wheels refinished. > > We have decided on powder-coating the rims white. > > I have found prices for powder coating from $80-200 CDN for a SET of four > rims. The highest bidder will guarantee the finish for the life of the > wheels. > > I have found a chemical stripping company that will strip a set of wheels > for > $100 CDN. > > I'm hoping I can find some more people interested in powdercoating a set > of > wheels white...perhaps I can get the price knocked down further if we have > more > sets! > > Contact me if you are interested. > > At this time I'm only going to arrange for Polyester White, which is UV > resistant. > > -Dave > Richmond Hill, ON (30min North of Toronto, close to the 404, 407 and 400 > hwys) > > > > There are two ways to live life. > I choose to no longer live in fear. > From Audimobiles at aol.com Thu Mar 1 10:08:47 2001 From: Audimobiles at aol.com (Audimobiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. Message-ID: The contact info is available under at the Audifans.com homepage. Dave Farrer '90 V8Q < In a message dated 3/1/2001 6:08:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, sbigelow@sprint.ca writes: > > CR= (V1+V2+V3+V4)/(V2+V3+V4) > Thanks, I will play with that for a while. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/db24cc99/attachment.htm From JShadzi at aol.com Thu Mar 1 10:29:06 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:40 2003 Subject: Coupe GT turbo conversion. Message-ID: <78.11326e30.27cfc4c2@aol.com> In a message dated 3/1/2001 6:19:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, ackramer@hotmail.com writes: > > Funny, I'm starting on a turbo conversion on a coupe too and was wondering > the same thing...but from a different angle. Would a 1987.5 tranny be > advantageous over the stock coupe 093 tranny? > I don't think the ratios are much different, and you would need to use the complete flywheel assy. to make it fit since the input shaft is shorter and thicker. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/6b82cb3c/attachment.htm From BSWANN at arinc.com Thu Mar 1 10:46:23 2001 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: re. UNCONTROLLABLE IDLE....HELP!!!! Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B1005767491@exanpmb1.arinc.com> Another Failed WOT/idle Throttle Body Switch ( or lack of power to it). [I just had the weirdest thing happen to my 87 5kcsqt, while driving home = last night exiting the freeway, pulled up to a stop light, noticed the = car is idleing at 3000 rpm...try to kick the throttle down...maybe its = stuck...nope. So I wait until this morning to check and see if the idle = screw has worked its way loose....nope. Checked all hoses(visually with = a good feel) to see if any are cracked to make for a vaccum = leak....nothing....checked the throttlebody to see if it's = sticking....nope....checked the throttle cable to see if its getting = bound up....nope;(. The Idle screw seems to have no affect at all!] From BeattyR at ummhc.org Thu Mar 1 11:14:10 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Exhaust work :) Message-ID: Anyone have the STOCK diameter of the exhaust on an 87 5ktq? Thanks Rob From BeattyR at ummhc.org Thu Mar 1 11:26:13 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Neat info about catalytic converters Message-ID: Researching things for my new exhaust I am designing for my 5ktq and saw this. Rather good info about how a cat works exactly. http://www.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm While im posting I'll also ask this question. From a performance standpoint, is there an optimal backpressure that is desired with the MC motor and higher boost? Currently using a K-26, but would like to change to the K-24 at some point in the future. Rob From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Thu Mar 1 16:34:29 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Atlanta Dinner Message-ID: > Yesterday's dinner with Phil was quite the pleasant, if not low key > event. A small group of hard core Audifans showed up, and Phil had > pictures of both the UrQ as well as the Big Red Bus to pass around. > He also was happy to pass around some of the tools he has made over > the years for specific applications. Dinner conversation centered > on things Audi, accompanied by the non-stop parade of corporate jets > taxiing by (the restaurant sits just off the runway at PDK). Including one attendee from last year's Cambridge meeting. So one person has a 100% Area "O" attendance record. > And yes, we did try to call the NE dinner group. And no, it wasn't > a collect call, either! They _DO_ go home to bed early up there, don't they? > We wrapped up at about 10 pm - or about 3 am UK time per Phil - and > I dropped Phil at the Marriott for a good night's sleep. Yes - thanks for the running about. Only decent vehicle I rode in all week. > Just wanted to say thanks to all who attended, and especially to > Phil for a very nice evening! There's a photo (171KB) of the rump of the party at http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/atlanta.jpg - but it's so dark as to make almost everything indistinguishable. I'm back in Sheffield now, having managed to sleep most of the way back over the pond. I decided not to eat the meal at take-off, and wait for breakfast. But I wanted a gin and tonic. Mistake. Drinks are served _with_ meals for those taking them, and after the meal break for everyone. The stewardess explained that I should have taken an 'expedite meal' - which would have got me a drink - and then discarded the meal. I said this was wasteful - she said she was throwing ten 'expedite' meals away anyway. Ho hum - another road warrier tip. 'nomail' is off for a while, so I'm reading the lists again. -- Phil From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Mar 1 11:40:18 2001 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: More from the dark side... Message-ID: <99.115208b7.27cfd572@aol.com> A few years ago, I heretically indicated that if WMB ever got back into the awd fray, audis life would get complicated. Well, I just drove a friends 330xi yesterday, and I'm convinced more than ever, audis life will get complicated. 0-60 times are rated at 5.8 (1/4mile at 14.4@96 stock) 62/38 f/r split All I can say, is the above seems quite easy to do, the car handles very well (not as much oversteer as I had expected, but fun, nice and quick), and has the typical awesome brakes. A 30minute blast ride made me think that just maybe the competition for the awd arena has just set a higher standard (I didn't like the ovlov awd system at all). If only it had a turbo... But there's always Dinan for that I suppose. Pretty impressive for a company that got spanked on the first go round (325ix). Scott Justusson From pantg at otenet.gr Thu Mar 1 18:43:27 2001 From: pantg at otenet.gr (Pantelis Giamarellos) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Mooo noise from steering Message-ID: <007401c0a26e$f0e64920$8e6aa7c3@default> Fellow listers, Today I have noticed that when switching the car on and turn the steering wheel left or right a mooo-ing noise with some high resonance transmited to the steering wheel. When the engine is warmed up the noise and resonance disappear. Pentosin level is OK. There is some pentosin leaking (topping up a bit of pentosin about once every two months) but no majot leaking problem. Car is a 1995 model year RS2 Thanks for your suggestions. Take care Pantelis From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Mar 1 11:58:17 2001 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Mooo noise from steering Message-ID: <28.11d87221.27cfd9a9@aol.com> The leak is probably your problem Pantelis. The symptoms you describe sounds like you might have blown or weeping the Hipressure hose to the rack. You need to peel back the protective foam from the outside of the hose, and you will find fluid underneath. If you don't have the correct pressure at the rack, the cow sounds are what you hear. Also, warn out or dirty fluid gets trapped in the screens of some of the banjo bolts, which also prevents correct pressure from getting to the rack itself (these are located on the pump and the bomb, not the rack itself). Also ck to make sure that your bellows on the rack are intact, and, if you find no external fluid leaks, the seals in the rack are most likely bad.... To ck this, a small hole into the bottom of the bellows should identify the culprit. HTH Scott Justusson In a message dated 3/1/01 10:48:58 AM Central Standard Time, pantg@otenet.gr writes: > Fellow listers, > > Today I have noticed that when switching the car on and turn the steering > wheel left or right a mooo-ing noise with some high resonance transmited to > the steering wheel. > > When the engine is warmed up the noise and resonance disappear. > > Pentosin level is OK. > > There is some pentosin leaking (topping up a bit of pentosin about once > every two months) but no majot leaking problem. > > Car is a 1995 model year RS2 > Thanks for your suggestions. > > Take care > Pantelis > From vandervoort at qwest.net Thu Mar 1 11:23:08 2001 From: vandervoort at qwest.net (Tom Vandervoort) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Back Issues -- Audi Driver Message-ID: Todd, et al: For back issues of Audi Driver go to: www.mail@autometrix.co.uk where you will receive a reply from a very helpful woman named Marie. I ordered back issues from last year there using a VISA card. They mailed promptly. If you go to their website, you can see what's available going back some years including the old VW/Audi Driver magazine. Tom e//S2 II From Eric.Renneisen at CIGNA.com Thu Mar 1 12:33:21 2001 From: Eric.Renneisen at CIGNA.com (Renneisen, Eric E 475) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: [urq] Re: Testing ISVs Message-ID: <55A201570A49D411B7F9009027B7033FC0CD19@CZKEXU01> > Brett Dikeman wrote: > My ISV(for the 3B) is open slightly when not connected, > I'm guessing for failsafe allow-the-engine-to-idle mode. Yup. For the 7A (NA 20V), the early Hitachi plunger-style ISVs are closed at rest, but the later Bosch rotary units remain slightly open. The BJ test applied across the board would have you tossing perfectly good ISVs. Eric Renneisen '90 CQ 20V - my wife's 'racing-iron' ;^) '85 urq - ol' reliable Chattanooga, TN ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: If you have received this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by e-mail at the address shown. This e-mail transmission may contain confidential information. This information is intended only for the use of the individual(s) or entity to whom it is intended even if addressed incorrectly. Please delete it from your files if you are not the intended recipient. Thank you for your compliance. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ From BeattyR at ummhc.org Thu Mar 1 12:44:59 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Atlanta Dinner Message-ID: - > And yes, we did try to call the NE dinner group. And no, it wasn't > a collect call, either! They _DO_ go home to bed early up there, don't they? We didnt go home... we were out in the rain looking at assorted Audi's :) Where else would a bunch of Audi nuts be when we get together.... Rob From JordanVw at aol.com Thu Mar 1 12:46:33 2001 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: FS:typ44 Eurolights, heater core/blower motor, doorpanels w/ bose Message-ID: <86.7893425.27cfe4f9@aol.com> any interest in these items? open to offers. '86-'91 5000/100 eurolights, perfect lens and reflectors. $300 obo for pair. no pitting or de-silvering. come w/ bulbs and covers and as much of wiring as i could get. (fit non turbo) wont fit 5kt or 200, unless you change your grille. type44 heater blower motor and heater core, complete unit. worked and spun freely when removed. $50 '89-'91 100/200 doorpanels. black w/ wood trim and have Bose speaker grills on front panels. excellent shape, no peeling, no cracks in speaker covers. best offer. '90 200TQ owners manual. $10 plus postage. chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/0ca712bc/attachment.htm From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Mar 1 12:46:56 2001 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/01 11:09:55 AM Central Standard Time, gpowell@ennovatenetworks.com writes: > Did they still have to jack-up the ride-height SUV-style as with the 325ix > to work-around the fact that the car was not designed with AWD in mind? Not obvious that I noticed Glen, but I don't have a 330i to compare to ;). My buddy did indicate that the weight gain for awd was only 175lbs > > Do they still run one of the front axles through the crank-case? I believe it still does that. But after exploring this (in terms of flaws) on the 325ix list, this is *not* a known failure component of the 325ix (the clutchpacks, clutch and other parts are, but not the axles, seals or routing thru the pan) > Just curious.... > > I've raced with a 325ix with an after-market turbo setup - it was a pretty > mean machine! The chassis balance and stiffness of that 330ix will up the ante for sure. SJ From marcswanson at mediaone.net Thu Mar 1 13:00:10 2001 From: marcswanson at mediaone.net (Marc Swanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: audifans archive suggestion In-Reply-To: <3A9D30E9.1543.1AF797E@localhost> Message-ID: > I have an idea. > > How about a form or interface of some sort, that would allow > subscribed listers who are reading posts from the archive site, to > reply to a thread without having to copy and paste into their email > client? You could insert your text into the box above or below the > quoted text (also in the box), for example. > > It would only help people browsing and responding to threads, like > I'm doing lately. Well, this isn't as easy to do as it may initially sound. Consider that all of the archives are pulled through the mailman program so creating a separate link to reply to a thread would first require hacking the mailman code to add said link and then perhaps hack the user information page in mailman to add a "reply to" field so when you send a reply to a thread the mail will have your correct reply address. Not impossible but not something that can be thrown together in a few hours either... If I didn't have so much on my plate right now I'd be willing to help with it but I just don't have the time.. -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From BeattyR at ummhc.org Thu Mar 1 13:03:36 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:41 2003 Subject: Info about custom exhaust for 5ktq Message-ID: Ok, i have gathered some info here. From tyoung at wamnet.com Thu Mar 1 12:11:23 2001 From: tyoung at wamnet.com (Todd Young) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... References: Message-ID: <3A9E90CB.C9AF94ED@wamnet.com> Just FYI, Chevrolet is running an axle through the oil pan on their new I6 engine. The differential actually attaches right to the oil pan and engine block! If you think about it, it saves weight, not just ground clearance, no seperate mount needed for the differential. Sure will play havoc with the guys looking to jack up the suspension though. QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: > > Do they still run one of the front axles through the crank-case? > I believe it still does that. But after exploring this (in terms of flaws) > on the 325ix list, this is *not* a known failure component of the 325ix (the > clutchpacks, clutch and other parts are, but not the axles, seals or routing > thru the pan) -- ------------------------------------------------------ Life's a beach. Dig your toes into the sand and enjoy. ------------------------------------------------------ Todd Young WAM!NET Inc. tyoung@wamnet.com 655 Lone Oak Drive, Bldg #A 651-256-5051 Eagan, MN 55121 800-585-1133 ext.5051 http://www.wamnet.com/ '93 Audi 90S (|___\====OOOO====/___|) From mchang at ee.washington.edu Thu Mar 1 10:25:26 2001 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: <001a01c0a272$de44dbc0$1404010a@tst.ennovatenetworks.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 1 Mar 2001, Glen Powell wrote: > Did they still have to jack-up the ride-height SUV-style as with the 325ix > to work-around the fact that the car was not designed with AWD in mind? I was side to side with one a few weeks ago. It looked quite jacked up. From QSHIPQ at aol.com Thu Mar 1 13:39:04 2001 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: More from the dark side... Message-ID: Yes Dave, it ****is**** 62 %REAR, 38 FRONT torque split. Thanks for the catch SJ In a message dated 3/1/01 12:17:08 PM Central Standard Time, Audimobiles writes: > I thought it was a 38/62 split as to stay true to bmw's rear wheel drive > heritage, maybe that was a the 'ix' ? > > Dave Farrer > '90 V8Q > > In a message dated 3/1/2001 11:49:07 AM Eastern Standard Time, QSHIPQ@aol. > com writes: > > << 0-60 times are rated at 5.8 (1/4mile at 14.4@96 stock) > 62/38 f/r split From ti at amb.org Thu Mar 1 10:42:37 2001 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: from "Mark L. Chang" at Mar 01, 2001 10:25:26 AM Message-ID: <200103011842.SAA23970@amb.org> Mark L. Chang writes: > On Thu, 1 Mar 2001, Glen Powell wrote: > > Did they still have to jack-up the ride-height SUV-style as with the 325ix > > to work-around the fact that the car was not designed with AWD in mind? > > I was side to side with one a few weeks ago. It looked quite jacked up. Yes, the 330iX ride height is elevated a bit compared to the 330i. -Ti 01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro 84 5000S 2.1 turbo 80 4000 2.0 96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ /// From cobram at juno.com Thu Mar 1 13:55:53 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... Message-ID: <20010301.135554.-1326509.1.Cobram@juno.com> Todd Young writes: > Just FYI, Chevrolet is running an axle through the oil pan on their > new I6 engine. The differential actually attaches right to the oil pan > and engine block! If you think about it, it saves weight, not just > ground clearance, no seperate mount needed for the differential. Sure will > play havoc with the guys looking to jack up the suspension though. Not exactly a new concept at GM, my old Eldorado used to have the split oil pan. There was something to be said for a 500CID engine and front wheel drive. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Thu Mar 1 19:05:24 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] Re: Testing ISVs Message-ID: >> My ISV(for the 3B) is open slightly when not connected, >> I'm guessing for failsafe allow-the-engine-to-idle mode. > Yup. For the 7A (NA 20V), the early Hitachi plunger-style > ISVs are closed at rest, but the later Bosch rotary units > remain slightly open. The BJ test applied across the board > would have you tossing perfectly good ISVs. The early units are conical and use a bimetal strip. They too are slightly open at rest. The plunger type used on the turbo 10Vs (and the 7A, etc.) is made by VDO and is closed at rest. The rotary unit is made by both Bosch and Hitachi, and is again slightly open at rest. -- Phil From lindgre at online.no Thu Mar 1 20:44:20 2001 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... References: <20010301.135554.-1326509.1.Cobram@juno.com> Message-ID: <3A9EA693.78D84833@online.no> One thing you'll should take notice of immideately is that while the old 4wd bimmer was an iX, the new models are in fact Xi. (or Xd) And raised susp. on a 4wd car vs. the 2wd sister is quite normal. The bimmer 3-series is 19 mm taller, the Merc. E-class is 10 mm taller (not the AMG 4-matic), the Skoda Octavia is 25 mm taller, the Bora (Jetta 4) is 2 mm LOWER and the Passat is 2 mm higher. PerL 92 Cabrio 2.3 From matrault at videotron.ca Thu Mar 1 14:49:13 2001 From: matrault at videotron.ca (Mathieu Tetrault) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: coupe gt to coupe gt quattro? Message-ID: Hi i have a 1986 coupe GT automatic . i want to know if one day i found a 4000 quattro for part. can i switch the manual transmission and the differential to fit on my GT it is difficult? can i fit any year on my 1986. if you have experience tanks to let me know. mathieu -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/c511272c/attachment.htm From BeattyR at ummhc.org Thu Mar 1 14:59:04 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: coupe gt to coupe gt quattro? Message-ID: Skipped content of type multipart/alternative From jiipm at sci.fi Thu Mar 1 21:54:06 2001 From: jiipm at sci.fi (Jukka Majanen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Mooo noise from steering Message-ID: <00a801c0a289$75f0aba0$482ac5c3@default> Hi Pantelis wrote: >Fellow listers, >Today I have noticed that when switching the car on and turn the steering >wheel left or right a mooo-ing noise with some high resonance transmited to >the steering wheel. >When the engine is warmed up the noise and resonance disappear. >Pentosin level is OK. >There is some pentosin leaking (topping up a bit of pentosin about once >every two months) but no majot leaking problem. >Car is a 1995 model year RS2 Same kind (I think) of thing happened to me last summer. In my situation (?91CQ) the reason was the steering column flange, which is located near pedals. It`s bushing got dry and became noisy. All I did, was to cover the surrounding areas with some rags and sprayed (flooded:) that flange with WD40 or something like it, while turning the wheel same time. Helped in my case. HTH j-pm From jiipm at sci.fi Thu Mar 1 22:04:09 2001 From: jiipm at sci.fi (Jukka Majanen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Mooo noise from steering 2 Message-ID: <000901c0a28a$c7c46f60$8329c5c3@default> Hi I just forgot this: Can there be ventilation in Your pumps suction line =air in the pump? j-pm From audi at mediaone.net Thu Mar 1 15:28:20 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: coupe gt to coupe gt quattro? References: Message-ID: <3A9EDB14.F476C2DE@mediaone.net> > i have a 1986 coupe GT automatic . i want to know if one day i found > a 4000 quattro for part. can i switch the manual transmission and the > differential to fit on my GT > > it is difficult? can i fit any year on my 1986. if you have > experience tanks to let me know. Sure, you'd need a lot of parts though. drivetrain, of course. floorpan. front subframe. entire rear suspension. rear brake lines, proportioning valve. exhaust system. worth it, maybe if you also swap in a turbo engine... but not exactly a weekend project. More like a summer of weekends! Martin Pajak has done it, but he's crazy. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From dan_masi at mentorg.com Thu Mar 1 15:27:03 2001 From: dan_masi at mentorg.com (Dan Masi) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: NAC/MAC: Renting in Germany In-Reply-To: <3A9EDB14.F476C2DE@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <048ABB357F0AD4119AF600508B556AA19ADBAA@svr-njw-exc-01.warren.mentorg.com> Headed for Germany for a week's visit, and while we can't afford an RS4, it'd be nice to rent something Audi. Does anyone have recommendations for rental companies, preferably those with presence at the Munich airport? Thanks, Dan Masi From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Thu Mar 1 21:02:18 2001 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (alan pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: hunting hedz! Message-ID: <01a401c0a292$e6ff9b90$0200a8c0@kamikazepv9ctc> hi guys, i think this thread was done long ago but..... im after a head to recon/port on my 84 cgt, engine code ke, i would obviously like a 10v head with mechanical followers, but i was wondering what options i have regarding valve sizes, compression ratios etc, i shall be hunting through the scrap yards very soon. thanks ps i seem to remember the ng head to be the one to go for, any tips? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/f41e22fa/attachment.htm From audi at mediaone.net Thu Mar 1 16:29:36 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: hunting hedz! References: <01a401c0a292$e6ff9b90$0200a8c0@kamikazepv9ctc> Message-ID: <3A9EE970.F159907B@mediaone.net> > alan pritchard wrote: > > hi guys, i think this thread was done long ago but..... im after a > head to recon/port on my 84 cgt, engine code ke, i would obviously > like a 10v head with mechanical followers, but i was wondering what > options i have regarding valve sizes, compression ratios etc, i shall > be hunting through the scrap yards very soon. thanks ps i seem to > remember the ng head to be the one to go for, any tips? NF head. from a mid/late 80's 5k/100. The NG requires swapping in the two piece intake manifold and fuel lines. How to recognise the NF in a bay... 5 cyl (duh), normal asp., locking plate riveted over the dist adj nut, knock sensor attached way down in front on the left side of the block (near water pump). That head gets you the bigger inlet valves. it's a hydraulic lifter head. don't know if it changes the compression or not. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca Thu Mar 1 13:23:23 2001 From: ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca (Support Services School District 27) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Powder Coat In-Reply-To: <200103011703.MAA23484@audifans.com> Message-ID: > welllll......I don't know, if we were talking about powdercoating them > Yellow, then maybe we could talk......:) It has been scientifically proven > that Yellow automotive parts add significant horsepower to a vehicle. I > haven't seen any figures on Polyester White.... That's true only for black vehicles :-) ... on a white/light colored car they just make it look too cute, some would even say "sissy", for instance, daisy wheels on a new bug From ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca Thu Mar 1 13:27:46 2001 From: ttiholov at rodeo.sd27.bc.ca (Support Services School District 27) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Dark side In-Reply-To: <200103011703.MAA23484@audifans.com> Message-ID: > 62/38 f/r split you got that backwards From matrault at videotron.ca Thu Mar 1 16:27:34 2001 From: matrault at videotron.ca (Mathieu Tetrault) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: i saw this sentence on audiquattroparts.com " Fall & Winter Super Specials! Heater Core Occasionally a heater core fails. Does your windshield have an oily film on it? If the inside of your car smells like anti-freeze or the windshield fogs up when the vehicle warms up, the heater core may be a problem. Make sure you replace it right away. The fumes are carcinogenic and breathing them can be unhealthy. mmm when i start my car sometime it smell anti-freeze. it can be this. can it resolve my new problem to. when i run the car high and stop at a light it smell like batterie acid. very nocive mathieu From ti at amb.org Thu Mar 1 13:35:28 2001 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: coupe gt to coupe gt quattro? In-Reply-To: from "Mathieu Tetrault" at Mar 01, 2001 02:49:13 PM Message-ID: <200103012135.VAA24417@amb.org> Mathieu Tetrault writes: > i have a 1986 coupe GT automatic . i want to know if one day i found a > 4000 quattro for part. can i switch the manual transmission and the > differential to fit on my GT > it is difficult? can i fit any year on my 1986. if you have experience > tanks to let me know. The rear floorpan and suspension is different between the CGT and the 4Kq. To do such a conversion would require you to cut out the entire rear floor pan of the 4Kq and weld it to the CGT. If that's the level of work you're willing to do then it's possible, but as you can imagine it is not a simple swap-over proposition. -Ti 01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro 84 5000S 2.1 turbo 80 4000 2.0 96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ /// From Kwattro at aol.com Thu Mar 1 16:36:25 2001 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Exhaust work :) Message-ID: <7f.10dc8413.27d01ad9@aol.com> I have a 5000Turbo test pipe for a cat, and it's exactly 2.5 inches. I would guess that most of the rest of the exhaust was smaller, but that gives you an idea at what it starts... Later! Carter From alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu Thu Mar 1 16:39:07 2001 From: alng at expert.cc.purdue.edu (Albert Ng) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: <20010301.135554.-1326509.1.Cobram@juno.com> Message-ID: Hi All, I think the old MB 300E 4matic has the pretty much same design too. Albert Ng '87 5kcst On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 cobram@juno.com wrote: > Todd Young writes: > > Just FYI, Chevrolet is running an axle through the oil pan on their > > new I6 engine. The differential actually attaches right to the oil pan > > and engine block! If you think about it, it saves weight, not just > > ground clearance, no seperate mount needed for the differential. Sure > will > > play havoc with the guys looking to jack up the suspension though. > > Not exactly a new concept at GM, my old Eldorado used to have the split > oil pan. There was something to be said for a 500CID engine and front > wheel drive. > > BCNU, > Cobram@Juno.Com > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html > > ________________________________________________________________ > GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! > Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! > Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: > http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. > From amsk at lehigh.edu Thu Mar 1 16:44:19 2001 From: amsk at lehigh.edu (Aaron Sherrick) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: Well, I'm going on an adventure to New Jersey (shudder) this weekend to check out the car. Since the car isn't drivable (blown auto tranny), any BTDT's to look out for on a used 5kt? Also, this '86 5kt should have G60 brakes, right? Thanks! Can't wait for Saturday! Aaron '86 4kq From audi at mediaone.net Thu Mar 1 17:09:37 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Exhaust work :) References: <7f.10dc8413.27d01ad9@aol.com> Message-ID: <3A9EF2D1.3726E436@mediaone.net> > I have a 5000Turbo test pipe for a cat, and it's exactly 2.5 inches. I would guess that most of the rest of the exhaust was smaller, but that gives you an idea at what it starts... try 55 mm, seems typical. that's approx 2 1/4" -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From lee at wheelman.com Thu Mar 1 17:11:15 2001 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee M. Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: dinner with Phil In-Reply-To: <200103011704.MAA23510@audifans.com> Message-ID: Some diehard Atlanta lister wrote: > Yesterday's dinner with Phil was quite the pleasant, if not low key > event. A small group of hard core Audifans showed up, and Phil had > pictures of both the UrQ as well as the Big Red Bus to pass around. > He also was happy to pass around some of the tools he has made over > the years for specific applications. What I want to know is how Phil got those tools through security at Heathrow. "No sir, those are not terrorist tools, they're for removing the MC from a 3B on a Type 44..." "Okay, sir, put those down carefully and come with us, sir." :) Lee From Audi_80 at email.msn.com Thu Mar 1 17:27:27 2001 From: Audi_80 at email.msn.com (Alexander van Gerbig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Vermont Tire Co. Message-ID: <012001c0a29e$cccd1a20$0101fea9@99e6s> Yesterday I dropped my wheels and new tires at a shop in So. Burlington called Dave's, on the recommendation of a lister. They got to those today and realized their machine couldn't do the low profile stuff without damaging the rim. So I loaded it all up and went to the conglomo VT Tire Co. They said no problem, looked at the wheels and tires, and then tell me it'll be $140+. Well that doesn't sound right to me, usually costs about $7 per wheel. Then he points to the sign and says $30 for 16" mounting, we don't support our competitors, usually it's $7.50. Sure I'd love to buy tires at a local shop like this, but their prices are exceedingly high, but $30 for mounting tires that were bought somewhere else? Seems a bit silly, just a note to those in BTown. Cheers, Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 The Audi 80 Pages----------------- http://surf.to/the80pages.com North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 From creisig at home.com Thu Mar 1 17:34:05 2001 From: creisig at home.com (Chuck Reisig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Carfax Message-ID: <3A9ECE5D.239714D5@home.com> Does anyone know of any free Carfax sites? TIA, Chuck Reisig Reston, VA '90 V8q, 70k From j_shost at excite.com Thu Mar 1 14:40:59 2001 From: j_shost at excite.com (John Shost) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: ALMS in TX Message-ID: <3626140.983486459599.JavaMail.imail@almond.excite.com> ALMS is a great series, by all means go. On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 07:32:36 US/Eastern, dritter@up.net wrote: > Greetings, > If I missed previous discussions on this subject, I've missed it. I'm > currently on a "no mail" option, stuck in TX doing some training. > While dining at a resturant yesterday, I observed Audi sport, Porsche > racing and Corvette racing support trucks passing in rapid succession on > a nearby highway. > Is the upcoming event on March 4th worth attending? Any local listers > going to the Texas Speedway for this? A visit to the track website > indicated that the tickets were fairly expensive. > My schedule is pretty busy and I can only hope to break away for an > afternoon, the morning is impossible for me. > > If this message is offensively formatted with html or some other, I > apologize. I'm stuck using a web mail interface for this account. > > David > > > --------------------------------------------- > This message was sent via GetMail > Check your up.net email: http://getmail.up.net > > _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ From AllradAudi at aol.com Thu Mar 1 17:42:53 2001 From: AllradAudi at aol.com (AllradAudi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: <78.11334664.27d02a6d@aol.com> I didn't see the first thread but Im assuming youre looking for a 5ktq I have 2 of them VERY reasonable, I complete car and one parts car, (complete drivetrain) I would let the parts car go REALLY cheap, where are you?? Im in Buffalo. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/3e16157e/attachment.htm From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Thu Mar 1 22:42:32 2001 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC References: Message-ID: <015001c0a2a1$036a33e0$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: > Now I know why I read in the travel section of the paper a few days ago that > train ridership was down in Britain and that the roads are suffering from > increased car use. The reason behind that is an accident last year caused by a broken rail which prompted a massive nation-wide check of all rail lines, speed restrictions and major disruption to time tables. Two hour journeys became 10 - people just gave up on the trains and took to the roads. By a massive coincidence, the locomotive involved in the broken rail accident is the same one that was pulling the passenger train yesterday. Couple of hours ago I spoke to a friend who has been on duty in one of the police control rooms today. She said that although 13 dead is the current figure, they have still got two very badly damaged carriages to clear tomorrow and are expecting to find more victims. She added that according to one of the police accident investigation officers, the lack of surface evidence on the motorway surface coupled with the straight tire tracks along the embankment make it highly likely that the driver fell asleep at the wheel. He (the driver) continues to deny that this was what happened. Regards, Jim Haseltine From caliban at sharon.net Thu Mar 1 14:47:32 2001 From: caliban at sharon.net (c a l i b a n) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: <99.115208b7.27cfd572@aol.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: ]Pretty impressive for a company that got spanked on the first go round ](325ix). what 8did* happen with this, anyway? why did it not catch on then? i see them every time i go to tahoe. -- rocky mullin - chaotic good http://caliban.sf.ca.us/ two strokes are faster than four! this message was composed using the vi editor. From v8q at bellsouth.net Thu Mar 1 18:20:23 2001 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [Fwd: Sebring info] Message-ID: <3A9ED936.82C1DCE@bellsouth.net> Here's the scoop for those thinking of attending... -------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: RELAYER@aol.com Subject: Sebring info Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 15:52:19 EST Size: 5791 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/cc4aff20/attachment.eml From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Mar 1 18:40:42 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Rear brake not releasing correctly In-Reply-To: <200103011445.OAA13418@anubis.UK.Sun.COM> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010301183752.00af6cd0@traverse.com> I'll bet that if you take the piston out of the caliper, you'll find some corrosion on the walls of the caliper cylinder or on the piston. The external spring on the cable can move the arm all the way to its stop and the brake piston still won't retract totally if there's some rust on the piston or cylinder walls to cause some friction. At 02:45 PM 03/01/2001 +0000, Michael Dewar - Sun Scotland wrote: >Hi all, > >Hoping someone can advise on a small problem. Patient is an S2 coupe >with Girling rear calipers. > >The handbrake arm can be moved freely by hand and with the handbrake >off, the arm can be moved freely towards the stop. If the handbrake is >applied and then released, the arm does not return to the same position >against the stop. It stops (no pun intended) about 1cm short and >therefore does not release the piston from the disc properly. What >would cause this ? > > >Regards, >Mike > > From jbr at montana.edu Thu Mar 1 16:51:04 2001 From: jbr at montana.edu (James Russell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 4ksq issues Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010301165104.007ab6b0@trex2.oscs.montana.edu> Thanks to all that replied to my previous inquiries about the steering rack and valve cover gasket. It seems like my car is getting all of it's problems out at once. The water temp light(the one with the water and the thermometer looking thing) has been flashing during hard acceleration. It seems like there is plenty of fluid and about 5 months ago the whole system was flushed due to a burst pipe. I look around briefly, cause it all that warm outside here in Montana, the only thing I noticed was there was fluid on the cover below the radiator, which leads me to believe that my radiator may have a leak or something. I hope not. It didn't look like there were any pipes around this area to be leaking fluid at this location. If you have any ideas please let me know. I will likely take it to the shop and have it checked out as I am planning on making a trip up to Calgary for Spring Break. Thank Brad Russell 84 4ksq From audi at mediaone.net Thu Mar 1 19:14:15 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 4ksq issues References: <3.0.6.32.20010301165104.007ab6b0@trex2.oscs.montana.edu> Message-ID: <3A9F1007.D3A2FBD4@mediaone.net> > Montana, the only thing I noticed was there was fluid on the cover below > the radiator, which leads me to believe that my radiator may have a leak or > something. I hope not. It didn't look like there were any pipes around > this area to be leaking fluid at this location. two hoses, one in front, one in rear of rad, and a coolant temp sensor for the fan relay, all at the bottom. that's 3 easy places it could be leaking. good rule of thumb - when coolant system parts start to go kablooey, replace them *ALL* (hoses, at least). The rest will follow soon and it's so much easier to do them all at once. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Mar 1 19:20:56 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010301191836.00bbfbd0@traverse.com> What car can you smell battery acid in? If it's a 5000/100/200 with the battery under the rear seat, you may have a battery that is not vented properly. The battery is supposed to have a vent tube to a hose that leads beneath the car. Coolant odor in the cabin only occasionally sounds like maybe a leak in the hose connecting to the heater core. I'd think that a leaking heater core would make the odor continuous. At 04:27 PM 03/01/2001 -0500, Mathieu Tetrault wrote: >i saw this sentence on audiquattroparts.com " > >Fall & Winter Super Specials! > >Heater Core > >Occasionally a heater core fails. Does your windshield have an oily film on >it? If the inside of your car smells like anti-freeze or the windshield fogs >up when the vehicle warms up, the heater core may be a problem. Make sure >you replace it right away. The fumes are carcinogenic and breathing them can >be unhealthy. > > >mmm when i start my car sometime it smell anti-freeze. it can be this. can >it resolve my new problem to. when i run the car high and stop at a light >it smell like batterie acid. very nocive > > >mathieu > > From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 00:18:00 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: dinner with Phil Message-ID: >> Yesterday's dinner with Phil was quite the pleasant, if not low key >> event. A small group of hard core Audifans showed up, and Phil had >> pictures of both the UrQ as well as the Big Red Bus to pass around. >> He also was happy to pass around some of the tools he has made over >> the years for specific applications. > What I want to know is how Phil got those tools through security at > Heathrow. > "No sir, those are not terrorist tools, they're for removing the MC from a > 3B on a Type 44..." > "Okay, sir, put those down carefully and come with us, sir." Got IN just fine. I carry a fair bit of electronic equipment in a small carry-on 'conference organiser' type of satchel. On the way OUT, Atlanta security decided to make _me_ the target of a random check. I love the way they do it. "Excuse me, sir, but are you in a hurry for your flight? We'd like to do a spot check." "No - I've got over five hours and my immediate plans only included getting roaring drunk in the Delta Business Elite lounge. But if you want to give me the third degree, go ahead." I wonder what they'd have done if I'd said I was in a hurry? Anyway, they have some clever stuff there for doing simultaneous drugs and explosives checks using wipes and a gas chromatograph. Quite entertaining. Body search wasn't very good - I gave them a few tips. -- Phil From knotnook at traverse.com Thu Mar 1 19:25:09 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Carfax In-Reply-To: <3A9ECE5D.239714D5@home.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010301192449.00af45d0@traverse.com> The FREE Carfax promo page is back up at: http://www.carfax.com/cfm/PromoPage1_New02.cfm At 05:34 PM 03/01/2001 -0500, Chuck Reisig wrote: >Does anyone know of any free Carfax sites? > >TIA, >Chuck Reisig >Reston, VA >'90 V8q, 70k > > > From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 00:35:58 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: > She added that according to one of the police accident investigation > officers, the lack of surface evidence on the motorway surface > coupled with the straight tire tracks along the embankment make it > highly likely that the driver fell asleep at the wheel. He (the > driver) continues to deny that this was what happened. The driver has said nothing - his wife has made a statement denying that he fell asleep but carefully not actually attributing this information to direct input from her husband. I may be a jaded old fart, but her television appearance failed to impress me one jot. I thought her comments shallow and her 'breakdown' theatrical. He was towing a trailer with another car on it. If you lose control of a rig like that for mechanical reasons such as a tyre failure, all hell breaks loose in a handbasket. But the aerial pictures of the crash scene show a nice pair of parallel tracks going right down to the railway. He got all the way to the tracks with the trailer upright. -- Phil From nathan.stuart at maine.edu Thu Mar 1 20:00:53 2001 From: nathan.stuart at maine.edu (Nate Stuart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 4ksq issues References: <3.0.6.32.20010301165104.007ab6b0@trex2.oscs.montana.edu> <3A9F1007.D3A2FBD4@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <001b01c0a2b4$3c0be780$0f00a8c0@emachine> > > Montana, the only thing I noticed was there was fluid on the cover below > > the radiator, which leads me to believe that my radiator may have a leak or > > something. I hope not. It didn't look like there were any pipes around > > this area to be leaking fluid at this location. > > two hoses, one in front, one in rear of rad, and a coolant temp sensor > for the fan relay, all at the bottom. 3 hoses at the rear of the Rad, one large one on top for coolant flow, another smaller one at the top to the overflow tank, and the other at the bottom for the overflow/fill tank. > that's 3 easy places it could be leaking. 5... ;-P > good rule of thumb - when coolant system parts start to go kablooey, > replace them *ALL* (hoses, at least). The rest will follow soon and > it's so much easier to do them all at once. Good advice, AMHIK.... :-) Later, -Nate '89 90q (with even more holes/hoses into the rad....:) From ameer at snet.net Thu Mar 1 20:15:52 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: UNCONTROLLABLE IDLE....HELP!!!! In-Reply-To: <005e01c0a269$d21485c0$7a632e9c@computer> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010301195906.00a3eba0@pop.snet.net> sounds like you have a vac. leak somewhere....if you're absolutely sure the throttle isn't stuck, sometimes the return spring on the throttle can get gummed up and stick. The vac. leak is prolly between the throttle body and cylinder head. There's a lot of stuff to check here...like ISV valve hoses, oil cap...basically anything that gets vacuum. A vac. diagram would help. Since the idle screw is doing nothing now, and since the idle screw is really just a small vac. leak, there must be another bigger one somewhere making any idle-screw adjustment insignificant. This can be intermittent too, if the hose is rotted and moving around. good luck. -ameer At 11:08 AM 3/1/2001 , you wrote: >Hi all >I just had the weirdest thing happen to my 87 5kcsqt, while driving home >last night exiting the freeway, pulled up to a stop light, noticed the car >is idleing at 3000 rpm...try to kick the throttle down...maybe its >stuck...nope. So I wait until this morning to check and see if the idle >screw has worked its way loose....nope. Checked all hoses(visually with a >good feel) to see if any are cracked to make for a vaccum >leak....nothing....checked the throttlebody to see if it's >sticking....nope....checked the throttle cable to see if its getting bound >up....nope;(. The Idle screw seems to have no affect at all! > The only thing I can think of is.. a couple of weeks ago my mechanic, > tweeked my fuel/air mixture so I could pass emmisions, was running too > rich, leaned it out a bit ....haven't had it tested yet....then last week > my fuel pump took a crap.. so I replaced it. I've checked for any codes > that maybe stored., but nothing is coming up!! I really need your help > gang, I haven't the faintest clue what this could be?????Thanks for any > input in advance. > > >Thanks >Tim From spsherm at attglobal.net Thu Mar 1 18:39:41 2001 From: spsherm at attglobal.net (Steve Sherman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Vacuum Noise in 5K Message-ID: <3A9EF9DD.1DFA69CB@attglobal.net> Hi. My 5LTQW has an unusual noise, whenever I let up on the gas pedal. It sounds like a faint vacuum leak. I am still on the trail of this elusive noise. It happens after running the engine at power then letting all the way off the gas at once. A low volume hissing noise comes from under the dash and last for a few seconds. I'm guessing this is a vacuum leak, because of the sound and that it happens at throttle close which should spike the vacuum. Unfortunately I have not been able to find this leak (if that is indeed what it is). And the noise does not happen at idle/stationary so I cannot reproduce it with my head under the dash listening. I suspect it is a pinhole or other small leak and so likely to be hard to spot visually. Any thoughts of likely places to look, or other problems to look for? TIA From orin at WOLFENET.com Thu Mar 1 17:44:30 2001 From: orin at WOLFENET.com (Orin Eman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: fan fuse In-Reply-To: from "Lee M. Levitt" at Feb 28, 2001 09:06:25 PM Message-ID: <200103020144.RAA13511@gonzo.wolfenet.com> > > "Ken Keith" writes: > > > And yes, the original issue that we were discussing making > > failsafe, was cracking or blowing of the fuse, resulting in > > overheating (without warning?). It wasn't clear why the high temps > > weren't caught by checking the gauges or idiot lights. > > In the interest of continued marital bliss, I have to answer this one very > carefully. > > In my case, it was the lack of loud sirens and flashing lights that kept my > wife from pulling off the highway immediately and shutting the engine down. > A small electronic simulation of a volcano in the instrument cluster just > didn't convey the appropriate amount of urgency. Indeed. Because it's the low windshield washer fluid warning. The over-temperature warning is a red thermometer (which some think looks like a key). Orin. From l.leung at juno.com Thu Mar 1 19:52:00 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Audi Spottings 3/1 Message-ID: <20010301.204554.-3995135.5.l.leung@juno.com> Late '86 - '87 Pearl 5KSQ, CT plates, aftermarket 5 spoke alloys, Euros. Seen about 7:00 PM in Nanuet, NY, right near Rt. 59 and a side road near Rt 304. I was heading East towards Nyack in a Pearl 200Q, with UrQ wheels. Lister? LL - NY From l.leung at juno.com Thu Mar 1 20:35:58 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Exterior trim 89 90q Message-ID: <20010301.204554.-3995135.8.l.leung@juno.com> They keep dirt and scum off of the door sill (thus keeping ones pant legs clean) AND serve to aerodynamically (not water) seal the bottom edge of the door, thus assisting in reducing aerodynamic drag by some infinitesimal degree. LL - NY On Wed, 28 Feb 2001 23:00:55 +0100 Tom Nas writes: >Dave Hord wrote: > >>Sigh...While coming out from under the car last night my shoulder >caught the >>passenger side lower door trim. POP! The whole piece came off. The >dealer >>wants MEGA bucks for these... >> >>Anyother options? I had heard rumours that the european cars don't >have >>these...what seals off the doors?? > >My 87 90q has those (assuming you mean the rubber flaps on the outside > >bottom edge of the doors), but my 87 80 doesn't, nor does any 80 I've >seen >so far. >I'm not sure what task these things actually perform. They don't seal >off >the doors, that's what the interior rubber seals are for. They seem to >be >purely cosmetical, AFAIK. > >Tom > From t44tq at mindspring.com Thu Mar 1 21:07:33 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001f01c0a2bd$8b8bfda0$d97afea9@noone> Scott, Glen, et al.: The 330xi definitely has a noticeable difference in ride height compared to the RWD 330i. The 330i has nearly no wheelwell gap with the sport package 17s, but the xi definitely has a noticeable wheelwell gap. It doesn't look "jacked up" like the old 325ix, but not as low as the "regular" car. I have yet to drive an xi so I'll reserve judgement for now. However, for the price, I'd rather take an S4tt, even without having driven the xi. Taka From munrof at sympatico.ca Thu Mar 1 21:17:47 2001 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Rear brake not releasing correctly References: <200103011445.OAA13418@anubis.UK.Sun.COM> Message-ID: <017101c0a2be$f9867b40$0200a8c0@fredmunr> There are two common problems with the rear brakes, Mike. Note that my experience is with the Girling brakes on the Type 44, not the S2 - I don't know if you have the same system. Remove the cable from the e-brake cam at the caliper. Pry the cam to apply the brake and release. The cam should return to the stop on it's own. If it doesn't, it certainly won't return with the cable attached. On the Type 44, these cams can be popped out of the caliper body about 1/2", allowing you to clean and lubricate the shaft. This usually restores free movement and allows the cam to return to the stop. It should actually return to the stop on it's own without the return spring installed if it is properly freed up. While the cable is off, push/pull the cable in and out. It should move easily. If it drags in the housing, the e-brake cam return spring will not be able to return the cam to the stop. Most of the problems I've seen have been a combination of a sticking cable and a sticking e-brake cam. HTH Fred Munro '94 S4 125k km ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Dewar - Sun Scotland" To: Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:45 AM Subject: Rear brake not releasing correctly > Hi all, > > Hoping someone can advise on a small problem. Patient is an S2 coupe > with Girling rear calipers. > > The handbrake arm can be moved freely by hand and with the handbrake > off, the arm can be moved freely towards the stop. If the handbrake is > applied and then released, the arm does not return to the same position > against the stop. It stops (no pun intended) about 1cm short and > therefore does not release the piston from the disc properly. What > would cause this ? > > > Regards, > Mike > From t44tq at mindspring.com Thu Mar 1 21:09:17 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: <3A9EA693.78D84833@online.no> Message-ID: <002001c0a2bd$c9183760$d97afea9@noone> Per, They make an AMG version of the 4Matic? You Europeans get all of the cool stuff. Make mine an E55 4Matic Estate. Taka -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Per Lindgren Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 2:44 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: [urq] More from the dark side... One thing you'll should take notice of immideately is that while the old 4wd bimmer was an iX, the new models are in fact Xi. (or Xd) And raised susp. on a 4wd car vs. the 2wd sister is quite normal. The bimmer 3-series is 19 mm taller, the Merc. E-class is 10 mm taller (not the AMG 4-matic), the Skoda Octavia is 25 mm taller, the Bora (Jetta 4) is 2 mm LOWER and the Passat is 2 mm higher. PerL 92 Cabrio 2.3 From t44tq at mindspring.com Thu Mar 1 21:16:43 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? Message-ID: <002301c0a2be$d3300740$d97afea9@noone> Hi listers, I keep hearing about seized rear brake calipers on our quattros, and just thought of something- if it wasn't extraordinarily expensive, couldn't one chrome plate the brake caliper? That would prevent corrosion, as long as the plating didn't make the pistons fit the caliper body. Is this a crazy idea? Taka Thinking of chrome plating and powdercoating stuff (not on the exterior of the car) From adhand at san.rr.com Thu Mar 1 18:35:40 2001 From: adhand at san.rr.com (Anand Dhanda) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Anyone in San Diego??? Message-ID: well, the SCAC/Audiworld is planning a Krispy Kreme run tonite if any san diegan listers are interested, please email me if you need to know where it is... we are meeting there at 9PM - Anand Dhanda President, Southern California Audi Club Anand@5vTurbo.net www.SoCalAudiClub.com '00 A4 1.8TQMSx Silver/Onyx Modded '91 200tqm In Search Of From RyanWeath at aol.com Thu Mar 1 21:37:31 2001 From: RyanWeath at aol.com (RyanWeath@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: NO audi content: E46 m3 SGM (paddle shifters) first pics Message-ID: <15.107de260.27d0616b@aol.com> Since you know you want to check out the competition: http://www.bmwclub.org.hk/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000049.html -Ryan '91 CQ 5 speed, no paddles From mwvogt at mindspring.com Thu Mar 1 21:58:01 2001 From: mwvogt at mindspring.com (Mark Vogt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: 80/90 Door Trims: DUMB! Message-ID: I've read some comments recently about what purpose door base trims on type 89's serve. IMHO they are just plain "dumb", look dirty all the time, catch curbs and either lift off eventually from the dirt they collect underneath or bend or warp. I finally got rid of mine and no water, no wind, no fuss...no muss. The sill is deep enough and the door seals are tight enough too. At the same time I got rid of the center door moldings that (if you've lived in a hot climate like I had for a couple of years) warp and lift right off the car right in front of your eyes, because the adhesive heats up and weakens. I had replaced three of these buggers from the dealer (because they won't come off anything else without trashing them) before I smartened up. My 80 looks a little different (which I like) and it's a lot easier to deal with. Mark Vogt '90 80 '89 200tqa '87 5Ks From munrof at sympatico.ca Thu Mar 1 22:32:32 2001 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? References: <002301c0a2be$d3300740$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <00d401c0a2c9$6ac20400$0200a8c0@fredmunr> I machined and inserted polished stainless sleeves into the caliper cylinders of my '67 Rover 2000TC to solve the caliper cylinder corrosion problem. Worked like a charm. I've never had this problem on an Audi, though. If you flush the brake fluid every 2 years, the internals remain rust free. The problem I've had with the rear brakes have been corroded and seized caliper guide pins, sticky e-brake cams, and seized e-brake cables. I put 180k km on the e'86 and 280k km on the '91 200q in with no internal problems with the brake calipers. Fred Munro '94 S4 125k km ( the rear brakes are the best yet - they keep the disc clean all winter!) ----- Original Message ----- From: "TM" To: "Quattro List" Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 9:16 PM Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? > Hi listers, > I keep hearing about seized rear brake calipers on our quattros, > and just thought of something- if it wasn't extraordinarily > expensive, couldn't one chrome plate the brake caliper? That would > prevent corrosion, as long as the plating didn't make the pistons > fit the caliper body. Is this a crazy idea? > > Taka > > Thinking of chrome plating and powdercoating stuff (not on the exterior > of the car) > From niederst at telerama.com Thu Mar 1 22:22:33 2001 From: niederst at telerama.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Audi LeMans car FS on eBay Message-ID: <002101c0a2c8$06c35f40$9028c9cd@oemcomputer> Link is below: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=565685806& r=0&t=0 Opening bid is $120k (reserve not met). Craig '92 100S (92k) '86 CGT (197k) From spokes at mail.the-wire.com Thu Mar 1 22:38:33 2001 From: spokes at mail.the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: One happy Audi Owner Message-ID: <983504313.3a9f15b93cbf3@webmail.the-wire.com> Ahhh...the two weeks of hell are almost over. I have: Replaced both rear strut inserts. Replaced both clutch master and slave cylinders Replaced Pads, Rotors, and BOTH rear calipers. Repaired damaged heat shielding Now, when I get in the car it MOVES like it should. It does not bounce, sway or rock. It STOPS like it should (both rear calipers were siezed, barly working rear brakes (rust inside the pad grooves). WOW four wheel disc brakes are cool! :-) And now, when I down-shift I don't get that catalytic converter vibrating off of heatshielding sound. The car is fixed, the wallet and bank accounts are empty, but wow...I am a happy guy. -Dave P.S. not to mention...it's snowing!! There are two ways to live life. I choose to no longer live in fear. From firestream at mindspring.com Thu Mar 1 22:36:46 2001 From: firestream at mindspring.com (Horace K. Sawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [A8] V8 Displacement In-Reply-To: <3A9E6360.DECE554A@mestek.com> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010301202241.00ba54a0@pop.mindspring.com> Well, thats a tall order. : ) You could do plan one: do a head job only where they are removed. The air passageways of the intake manifold and head are ground out, polished smooth, and shaped to improve air flow. Now *how* it is done can be subject to debate. It is probably possible to remove material in the wrong place, take out too much material, not enough, or otherwise disturb the air flow, all of which may actually worsen things. Generally, you see some improvement unless the shop doing it is completely and hopelessly lame. Some posit the theory that airflow surfaces should be roughed in some areas to create turbulence, swirl the air to more or less mix it up -- all for the purpose of obtaining a fuel mixture that will burn more efficiently, ergo more power. Plan two: do all that, plus remove the engine, pull the crankshaft, rods and have all that balanced perfectly. It seems that stock cranks are not perfectly balanced. Perfecting this has been known to produce marvelous results, with longer engine life, and of course increased power. Expense: I haven't the foggiest -- but you see it would be substantial unless you are doing much of the labor yourself on the remvoval and installation. hk At 09:57 AM 3/1/01 -0500, Theron J. Bliss wrote: > Ok, here's my chance to sound like a complete retard. I was >curious about a couple of aspects to increase output of my 3.6 liter >motor. I have heard that porting and polishing, and blue printing and >balancing would greatly improve the output and response of my motor. >Here are my questions on that: >What is involved in doing this? >Will it really make much difference? >What kind of costs should I expect? (will I have to sell my kids?) > > Secondly, I had heard that the 3.6 and 4.2 liter motors have the >same block. Does this mean I can get 4.2 heads, and bolt those onto my >motor, and have a 4.2 with 270 +/- hp? >Do cams do much for these motors? > >TIA (from a guy who obviously has no clue. Hey, I've been a 4 banger VW >guy all my life) > >Theron J. Bliss >Massachusetts >1990 V8 Quattro >198,000 miles >Lago Blue, Grey Connolly leather > >http://sites.netscape.net/theronbliss/homepage > > > > >_______________________________________________ >a8 mailing list >a8@audifans.com >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/a8 From cobram at juno.com Thu Mar 1 22:40:49 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? Message-ID: <20010301.224050.-1549165.1.Cobram@juno.com> hAudi: Looking for some BTDT. Skip to bottom for the "meat" of the post if you want. Previous Pento$in leaks had eaten away at the rubber, and the EASY replacement of the front subframe bushings on the 1984 5KS has been anything but. First I get two bushings about 4 months ago....and store them so well I can't find them. Ordered another set, formerly great parts guy at the local wholesaler sends two transmission mounts after 5 days...then, after I fax him the ETKA picture and Audi part number (which happens to be the same part number for after market) three days later he sends strut mount bushings...arggh. Call Worldpac and they send one bushing instead of two...fine, I'll install it on the passenger side, since there is no bushing left, eaten away. (I had adapted the strut bushing as a temp measure with a dremel tool.) Some silicone and an exhaust holder and the new bushing slides right in...nice. Put the bolt in, lines right up with the nut in the frame. HAND tighten with ratcheting box end, can hear the nut in frame clacking back and forth. Get bolt head up to big washer and F(*&, it just spins and doesn't tighten. Take the bolt out.....and the threads of the new bolt now contain the wedges from the frame nut. There is a small hole in the front of the frame, where you can almost get your finger in, can't even feel the nut. NOW WHAT? From what I can see, I'm going to have to cut a hole in the frame to get to the nut and replace it. I'm thinking of tapping it one size larger, but would have to remove the subframe, and the way the nut in the frame moves up and down I don't think I'll be able to do it. FWIW: The nut probably got damaged because I drove the car for so long with a bad (almost gone) subframe bushing. The constant whacking the bolt was taking from the subframe was probably responsible for the damage. Any suggestions welcome, especially ones that don't involve cutting into the frame. There are no access holes that I could see. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From quattro at brettd.dsl.speakeasy.net Thu Mar 1 23:18:46 2001 From: quattro at brettd.dsl.speakeasy.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Mooo noise from steering In-Reply-To: <28.11d87221.27cfd9a9@aol.com> References: <28.11d87221.27cfd9a9@aol.com> Message-ID: I think a while back I asked Phil, or someone else, to put together a list of the various bolts, which ones can be replaced/reused after cleaning, which ones need new washers, etc. Any volunteers? I don't have enough knowledge of the hydraulics to do it myself. B At 11:58 AM -0500 3/1/01, QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: >Also, warn out or dirty fluid gets >trapped in the screens of some of the banjo bolts, which also prevents >correct pressure from getting to the rack itself (these are located on the >pump and the bomb, not the rack itself) -- ---- Brett Dikeman Systems Engineer ProAct Technologies Corporation 914-872-8043 (formerly CFN[formerly iClick, Inc]) 914-872-8100(fax) 120 Bloomingdale Rd. http://www.proacttechnologies.com White Plains, NY 10605 PGP Fingerprint: 06C2 5D5B D2B4 7626 BB24 2BBC 9E4A C8B3 PGP Key location: http://pdikeman.ne.mediaone.net/pgp/brett.pgp From TheRingmeister at aol.com Thu Mar 1 23:48:03 2001 From: TheRingmeister at aol.com (TheRingmeister@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: a few observations. Message-ID: After 7 weeks at the dealerachip, I've noticed some strange things. One....approximately 250 or so of the 225hp TT roadsters were built with manual tops. These are all supposed to have power tops standard. Someone just all of a sudden realized this as they were in production...whoops, too late! Audi gave price breaks of an additional $900 just to move them. It seems, as we might have guessed, that they were all produced when? you guessed it, in Oktober!!! hmmm....coincidence? there are also a fair number of A6's without the immobilizer. you know what it says on the sticker? "Special Build without Immobilizer" (part of the anti-theft) ...they offer you a whopping $100 credit! like they're doing you a favor...... Last, we have a TT roadster (225hp) sitting on the lot right now without the "halo" alarm...the one that supposedly develops a field over the interior compartment and sets off the alarm if it senses someone trying to snatch something out of the car if you leave the top down.. why? we haven't figured that out, but there's just a blank where the button to disable it goes. It's a wonder ANY of our cars are at all alike for any given model/year Wylie Bean TheRingmeister@aol.com Audi Brand Specialist Flow Motors, Inc Winston-Salem, NC '90 coupe' quattro '99.5 A4 Avant Sport 1.8TqTiptronic From powellae at home.com Thu Mar 1 22:16:27 2001 From: powellae at home.com (Al Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Brake Light Shenanigans Message-ID: <01C0A29D.434DA0E0.powellae@home.com> The brake warning light on my 1990 200 is becoming pesky. The bomb is known good, passes all pump-down tests, and is relatively fresh. No problems with Pentosin levels, although a past leak forced me to replace the front half of the HP hose last summer. No leak now. But the darn brake light takes 30+ seconds to go off in the AM, and when the car is warm, I sometimes get flickers from it while idling at a stoplight! It's clearly a non-bomb related problem. Any BTDT's? I think I recall some discussion of a possibly related problem in the past couple of months, but I can't recall specifics. Was there some mention of a check valve in the pump? TIA, friends. Direct replies are appreciated. ************************************ Al Powell Fort Collins, CO powellae@home.com cougfan1@gocougs.wsu.edu ************************************ From ti at amb.org Thu Mar 1 21:44:21 2001 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:42 2003 Subject: Brake Light Shenanigans In-Reply-To: <01C0A29D.434DA0E0.powellae@home.com> from "Al Powell" at Mar 01, 2001 10:16:27 PM Message-ID: <200103020544.FAA27030@amb.org> Al Powell writes: > The brake warning light on my 1990 200 is becoming pesky. > ... Did you check the *brake* fluid level? -Ti 01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro 84 5000S 2.1 turbo 80 4000 2.0 96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ /// From edkellock at juno.com Thu Mar 1 22:41:39 2001 From: edkellock at juno.com (edkellock@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: More steering noises Message-ID: <20010301.230242.-1550693.3.EdKellock@juno.com> Since we're already on the topic... I've noticed recently a noise in the steering on my 89 200q. It happens while the steering is being turned. Think of the sound and sensation of power steering when you put a higher load on it, like when you're trying to turn the wheel while sitting still or when someone turns it to lock and holds it against. It's almost like that but it comes and goes as the steering goes from lock to lock. Seems to do it more when warm. It's like the steering is having to work harder for a moment and then not and then harder and then not. It's almost like there is a rough spot that it rotates past over and over. It's been doing this for about a week, that I've notice anyway. I haven't noticed any leaks. The amount of assist or effort I have to exert to turn the wheel does not seem to change. Any ideas? Ed Colorado Springs 89 200q ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From edkellock at juno.com Thu Mar 1 22:52:32 2001 From: edkellock at juno.com (edkellock@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... Message-ID: <20010301.230242.-1550693.4.EdKellock@juno.com> I test drove one when new, way back when... Actually I think it was one of the last few that was still hanging around. I drove it back to back with the rwd version. It was noticeably slower. And I'm sure for the truly vain BMW buyer, the ride height was probably an eye sore. This was in sunny SoCal, Manhattan Beach specifically. As I recall they were willing to discount it fairly heavily at the time. Ed Colorado Springs On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 14:47:32 -0800 (PST) c a l i b a n writes: > On Thu, 1 Mar 2001 QSHIPQ@aol.com wrote: > > ]Pretty impressive for a company that got spanked on the first go > round > ](325ix). > > what 8did* happen with this, anyway? why did it not catch > on > then? i see them every time i go to tahoe. > > -- > rocky mullin - chaotic good > http://caliban.sf.ca.us/ > two strokes are faster than four! > this message was composed using the vi editor. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010301/6965331b/attachment.htm From tech at flashmail.com Fri Mar 2 00:33:01 2001 From: tech at flashmail.com (Richard J. Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Vacuum Noise in 5K In-Reply-To: <3A9EF9DD.1DFA69CB@attglobal.net> Message-ID: <5.0.1.4.2.20010302003223.009f3670@mail.flashmail.com> Possibly the dick lock panel? these are run off of vacuum.. that or the climate control... HTH! rich '86 4kq At 07:39 PM 3/1/01, you wrote: >Hi. > >My 5LTQW has an unusual noise, whenever I let up on the gas pedal. It >sounds like a faint vacuum leak. I am still on the trail of this elusive >noise. It happens after running the engine at power then letting all >the way off the gas at once. A low volume hissing noise comes from >under the dash and last for a few seconds. I'm guessing this is a >vacuum leak, because of the sound and that it happens at throttle close >which should spike the vacuum. > >Unfortunately I have not been able to find this leak (if that is indeed >what it is). And the noise does not happen at idle/stationary so I >cannot reproduce it with my head under the dash listening. I suspect it >is a pinhole or other small leak and so likely to be hard to spot >visually. > >Any thoughts of likely places to look, or other problems to look for? > >TIA From ameer at snet.net Fri Mar 2 01:42:37 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? In-Reply-To: <002301c0a2be$d3300740$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010302013156.00a3adc0@pop.snet.net> btw, chrome affects the brittleness in materials. It makes things harder, but more brittle, and heavier. I'm not sure how chrome plating would be done, but I don't think it would affect the brakes seizing unless you plated the internal passages. Ii think good preventative maintenance, like replacing fluid, would keep away most problems. My experience w/ 5kt calipers is 1. the parking cable mechanism seize, esp. on A/T's...solution: use the parking brake. 2. calipers seize after sitting for long periods and no fluid change...solution: flush the fluid when needed...don't drive w/ black brake fluid... -ameer At 09:16 PM 3/1/2001 , you wrote: >Hi listers, >I keep hearing about seized rear brake calipers on our quattros, >and just thought of something- if it wasn't extraordinarily >expensive, couldn't one chrome plate the brake caliper? That would >prevent corrosion, as long as the plating didn't make the pistons >fit the caliper body. Is this a crazy idea? > >Taka > >Thinking of chrome plating and powdercoating stuff (not on the exterior >of the car) From nathan.stuart at maine.edu Fri Mar 2 01:58:06 2001 From: nathan.stuart at maine.edu (Nate Stuart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Vacuum Noise in 5K References: <5.0.1.4.2.20010302003223.009f3670@mail.flashmail.com> Message-ID: <000901c0a2e6$23117ba0$0300a8c0@newt> Huh, that's an option I've not heard of before, got a P/N? It's no wonder some folk reffer to the Gen 1 'lockers' as being superior to the t*rsens... > Possibly the dick lock panel? > these are run off of vacuum.. Later, -Nate (now missing his two previous gen 1's...) '89 90q (dick lockless) From DGraber460 at aol.com Fri Mar 2 02:09:51 2001 From: DGraber460 at aol.com (DGraber460@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: More steering noises, Denver get together Message-ID: My 91 100 did the same thing. It ended up being a dry tie rod end. Another lister suggested putting the front end up on jack stands. Then start it up and have someone turn the steering lock to lock. When I did this, it didn't make any noise, but by putting my hand on the different pivot points, I was able to feel the vibration in the offending part. Solved it by pushing the rubber boot up and "injecting" oil into it as it moved back and forth. Haven't heard from it since. Very relieved, as I thought my pump or rack was going out. HTH Dennis PS FWIW, I had an angiogram today, and am scheduled for open heart surgery on the 13th. I would like to get together with some area listers for a beer before they gut me like deer. Anyone interested post up. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010302/0e1cbeba/attachment.htm From alexaudi at kki.net.pl Fri Mar 2 09:43:55 2001 From: alexaudi at kki.net.pl (Aleksander Mierzwa) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.20010302013156.00a3adc0@pop.snet.net> References: <002301c0a2be$d3300740$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010302094355.02c5de20@kki.net.pl> At 01:42 01-03-02 -0500, Ameer Antar wrote: >btw, chrome affects the brittleness in materials. It makes things harder, >but more brittle, and heavier. I'm not sure how chrome plating would be >done, but I don't think it would affect the brakes seizing unless you >plated the internal passages. When I had my rack rebuilt, the tech said they would check the sleeve for wear and if it's out of spec, they would need to get it chrome plated. Fortunately, the seal kit and boot was all that was needed. Just my PLN 0.02 -- Aleksander Mierzwa Warsaw, Poland 87 5KT From cz137 at home.com Fri Mar 2 00:14:07 2001 From: cz137 at home.com (cz137@home.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq Message-ID: <01c401c0a2e8$5f043ec0$a0670641@boulder1.co.home.com> I am sure that this has been covered here before, but alas I am new to the list. One or more of the lifters on my new to me '87 4kcsq intermittently sticks. tick tick tick tick. I use Mobil 1. What does the list wisdom reccomend as far as oil additives go? BG MOA? Marvel Mystery Oil? What has worked for you? Or is the only remedy to have the lifters replaced? What makes them stick in the first place? Thanks in advance:-) If anyone knows the approximate date of the last in depth sticky lifter thread I would love to look it up in the archives. Cory '87 4kcsq -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010302/073bfab4/attachment.htm From tech at flashmail.com Fri Mar 2 03:42:59 2001 From: tech at flashmail.com (Richard J. Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq In-Reply-To: <01c401c0a2e8$5f043ec0$a0670641@boulder1.co.home.com> Message-ID: <5.0.1.4.2.20010302033557.00a9fe50@mail.flashmail.com> At 01:14 AM 3/2/01, you wrote: i don't know honestly... drive the car and let it warm up thoroughly... i am using mobil 1 15w50 in my 4kq.. the lifters are a bit noisy from time to time.. i should replace them... but after warming the engine it seems to end all lifter noise. make sure you don't run the car hard and shut it off.. this seems to make the noise worse and last longer after the next startup. i have been changing the oil every 1000miles for the last 5,000 miles... and doing a filter change every 500 miles (or every week).... oil is definately clean in the engine.. got some Audi oil filters tonight.. will let you guys know if this helps @ all..... BTW, i have cut open several oil filters to compare... the ones i have opened are: Audi, Mann, Mobil 1, Ac-Delco, and STP, the Audi and the Mobil 1 are the best.. the Audi filter is the ONLY filter with a nice little meshtype filter added.. the Mobil 1 has more paper than any other. but no mesh type filter.. and the Mann rates 3rd... The STP looks cheesy... never use one of those again... but pricewise.. The Mann only cost's 2.99.. and the mobil 1 is 9.99... so either Audi or Mann... but the Mobil 1 is nice.... just not worth 9.99 IMO HTH! -rich '86 4kq >I am sure that this has been covered here before, but alas I am new to the >list. One or more of the lifters on my new to me '87 4kcsq intermittently >sticks. tick tick tick tick. I use Mobil 1. What does the list wisdom >reccomend as far as oil additives go? BG MOA? Marvel Mystery Oil? What >has worked for you? Or is the only remedy to have the lifters >replaced? What makes them stick in the first place? Thanks in advance:-) > >If anyone knows the approximate date of the last in depth sticky lifter >thread I would love to look it up in the archives. > >Cory >'87 4kcsq From avinash at acm.org Fri Mar 2 06:55:10 2001 From: avinash at acm.org (Avinash Chopde) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 1990 Audi 100, stutters, wheezes. Message-ID: <3A9F8A1E.CEAC17EC@acm.org> Anyone have ideas on this - the dealer was stumped for 14 days and even now the car is not working as well as it used to. 1990, Model 100, non-quattro, 200K miles. Two weeks ago, it rained heavily, and after that, the car would stutter when I hit the gas pedal - around 20MPH, it would loose all power until I let off on the gas pedal. The dealer replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and then said it was fixed. They were wrong, that did nothing to fix it (I had to pay for all that anyway :-). Then after two weeks of trying a lot of stuff, they replaced the air sensor potentiometer. This fixed the problem to a large extent, now I don't have any problem hitting the gas pedal. But when the car is driven a lot or if it gets warm, the idle becomes extremely rough - sounds like the car is wheezing - like a smoker with bad lungs???!! Any ideas on what else to look for, mechanically the car still runs fine, but the electronics seems to have the dealer stumped here. He did say that the ECU seems ok. -- Avinash Chopde e-mail: avinash@acm.org http://www.aczone.com/ From mjmjr at optonline.net Fri Mar 2 06:38:56 2001 From: mjmjr at optonline.net (Michael Murphy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq References: <01c401c0a2e8$5f043ec0$a0670641@boulder1.co.home.com> Message-ID: <3A9F8650.6E860AFA@optonline.net> cz137@home.com wrote: > One or more of the lifters on my new to me '87 4kcsq intermittently sticks. tick tick tick tick. I use Mobil 1. What does the list wisdom reccomend as far as oil additives go? BG MOA? Marvel Mystery Oil? What has worked for you? Or is the only remedy to have the lifters replaced? What makes them stick in the first place? Thanks in advance:-) Additives are not recommended. Noisey lifters, according to those that have investigated this, are normal in the I5 when it's cold and should go away once the engine has warmed up. If you're using Mobil 1 15w50 in a cold climate, this can contribute to initial lifter noise. If the noise continues on a warm engine it indicates one of the following: - low oil level (my 100 will start ticking when it's 1/2 qt. low) - oil is wearing "thin" - obviously not the case w/you. - there is a build up of "crud" in the oil passages. Use an engine flush - some listers have reported sucess w/Marvel and other brands. We "punt" Lubro-Moly MotorClean because it works. - You do have worn lifters and it's time for replacement. > If anyone knows the approximate date of the last in depth sticky lifter thread I would love to look it up in the archives. Easier to answer this than find that. -- Mike Murphy From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 12:28:50 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq Message-ID: > i don't know honestly... drive the car and let it warm up > thoroughly... i am using mobil 1 15w50 in my 4kq.. the lifters are > a bit noisy from time to time.. i should replace them... > but after warming the engine it seems to end all lifter noise. make > sure you don't run the car hard and shut it off.. this seems to make > the noise worse and last longer after the next startup. There's an official test - I think it's engine warm and 3,000 rpm for two minutes (or is it 2,000 rpm for three minutes?) to make sure the lifters are pumped up. From an engineering point of view, it doesn't matter if they're noisy at idle - it's what they do at higher rpm that matters, and they have to be pretty damn bad to cause problems then. If only one lifter is noisy, the noise is often cyclical. The reason is that the cam lobes touch the lifter surface slightly off-centre - this rotates the lifter to distribute the wear. You can see the marks on the tops of the lifters. The noise is cyclical because the lifter is fed with oil from a hole on only one side of the head. This oil runs round a groove in the side of the lifter and into a hole. When the two holes are facing each other, the oil going into the lifter doesn't have to force its way round the groove - both pressure and flow are better, and the lifter is more easily pumped up. As it rotates, the holes get further apart and the oil path gets longer, so the lifter isn't pumped up so much. This is no problem if the seals inside the lifter are still good - there's more than enough oil supply to keep it up. If the seals are worn, there might not be enough to do the job and the lifter will partly collapse, causing a tick. There's a very good cross-section of a hydraulic lifter in the V8 service documentation - I wonder if anyone could put it on a web site? The cycle is a few seconds - perhaps around five. If only one lifter is doing this and you want to change it, take care to stop the engine when the lifter is at its quietest. When you take the cam out, the suspect lifter is the one with its supply hole closest to the head's feed hole. I've also found that listening very carefully to the side of the cam cover using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and marking the side of the head is a very good way of identifying a bad lifter. Audi's test requires you to push the side of the lifter down with a plastic instrument and judge whether you have significant movement before the valve opens. Not always easy. Just recently I've been 'testing' lifters. If you take a lifter out, you can easily pull the internal piston down and push it back in to feel how tight the seals are. I tried to do this a few years ago using pliers but never got anywhere - now I use a small strong magnetic pick-up tool. If you turn the lifter so the supply hole points downwards, you can also pump it to get all the old oil out. YEUK!! WARNING - this paragraph is unfounded speculation. The oil feed to the lifters also serves to lubricate the sides of the lifter. If the seals go inside the lifter, does the oil flow through the lifter increase to the point that oil pressure around the sides is reduced? I wouldn't think it enough to do this, but it's worth a thought. The magnetic pick-up tool is also the easiest way (by far) to get the lifters out of the head. I use a Sykes-Pickavant one with a narrow pick-up magnet - it's much more useful for ferreting down spark plug holes than the ones with wider magnets. On a 'black sludge' engine - one that has seen few oil changes or inferior oil - it's a good idea to poke out the feed holes while the lifters are out. The best thing for this is strimmer ('weed whacker') plastic wire, but it needs to be the very small diameter sort. Also - certainly on the MC/MB/1B engines - I find that ticking is minimised by filling with oil to the second line of dots below the 'Max' mark on the dipstick. I don't know why this should be - it doesn't seem to affect oil pressure. There's a similar cyclical tick phenomenon with solid lifter engines. This time it's usually caused by a piece of sh1t under a shim - you can spot it via the shim wear pattern. One worthwhile check on all lifter types is the wear pattern where the lobe bears on it. Any asymmetry should be investigated. [snippage] > the Audi filter is the ONLY filter with a nice little meshtype filter added.. [snippage] Also the pressure relief valve has the correct spring strength for the engine and there's an anti-drainback valve. I cannot understand people trying to save $5 every five thousand miles and taking risks with cheap filters. It's not even worth the time to think about it, let alone do it. I've also got my Audi dealer trained to put a new drain plug crush washer in the box without me asking. -- Phil From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 12:58:17 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 1990 Audi 100, stutters, wheezes. Message-ID: > Anyone have ideas on this - the dealer was stumped for 14 days > and even now the car is not working as well as it used to. I know dealers who've been stumped for 14 _YEARS_. > Two weeks ago, it rained heavily, and after that, the > car would stutter when I hit the gas pedal - around 20MPH, it would > loose all power until I let off on the gas pedal. Check the fusebox seals - the rubber gasket inside the lid and the seal to the body. Moisture in the fuse box can cause all manner of symptoms, including false indication of engine overspeed to the fuel pump relay. Also check that both clips and both hinges on the fuse box lid are OK. This problem is _VERY_ common after heavy rain when the fuse box lid isn't quite clipped home. Roger Galvin left the fuse box lid off his MB ur-quattro and the damn thing was doing wierd things for weeks - the interior lights would suddenly come on, and then the radiator fan suddenly woke up in Jumbo jet reverse thrust mode at 3:00am in his garage. Frightened the bajesus out of his wife, who thought it was a _real_ Jumbo! One for the brains trust - anyone know a part number for the lid gasket separate from the lid? Might be another 'timing belt' item, like the coolant header tank cap. It may well be worth giving the fusebox a thorough going over with a hair dryer. Pull each relay and dry its pins and socket. -- Phil From KC3565L at sprintmail.com Fri Mar 2 05:55:38 2001 From: KC3565L at sprintmail.com (Dave) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1147 - 16 msgs References: <200103020701.CAA06092@audifans.com> Message-ID: <3A9FA65A.D6A15B63@sprintmail.com> I was all set to remove the power steering pump on my 90Q a while back when another lister suggested checking the bushings on the sway bar link pivots. Sure enough, a shot of oil to each one fixed it. They made a groaning sound exactly like a failing power steering pump. Maybe your 200Q has a similar setup. Dave > > Message: 12 > From: edkellock@juno.com > To: quattro@audifans.com > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2001 22:41:39 -0700 > Subject: More steering noises > > Since we're already on the topic... > > I've noticed recently a noise in the steering > on my 89 200q. It happens while the steering > is being turned. Think of the sound and > sensation of power steering when you put > a higher load on it, like when you're trying to > turn the wheel while sitting still or when > someone turns it to lock and holds it against. > It's almost like that but it comes and goes as > the steering goes from lock to lock. Seems to > do it more when warm. It's like the steering is > having to work harder for a moment and then > not and then harder and then not. It's almost > like there is a rough spot that it rotates past > over and over. It's been doing this for about > a week, that I've notice anyway. I haven't > noticed any leaks. The amount of assist or > effort I have to exert to turn the wheel does > not seem to change. > > Any ideas? > > Ed > Colorado Springs > 89 200q From Mike.Dewar at Sun.COM Fri Mar 2 13:18:34 2001 From: Mike.Dewar at Sun.COM (Michael Dewar - Sun Scotland) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq Message-ID: <200103021318.NAA19579@anubis.UK.Sun.COM> The test I have seen for hydraulic lifters is to rev a warm engine at 3k rpm for 2 minutes. If the noise persists, the lifter(s) require replacement. Regards, Mike From Tom.Thomas at doa.state.wi.us Fri Mar 2 07:52:43 2001 From: Tom.Thomas at doa.state.wi.us (Thomas, Tom) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? Message-ID: <28EDA1B41BC1D411BDEA00D0B71DBF8432C929@doamail04.doa.state.wi.us> Cobram@juno.com said: Some silicone and an exhaust holder and the new bushing slides right in...nice. Put the bolt in, lines right up with the nut in the frame. HAND tighten with ratcheting box end, can hear the nut in frame clacking back and forth. Get bolt head up to big washer and F(*&, it just spins and doesn't tighten. Take the bolt out.....and the threads of the new bolt now contain the wedges from the frame nut. There is a small hole in the front of the frame, where you can almost get your finger in, can't even feel the nut. To which I respond: I ran into this *exact* same problem. I ended up getting a longer bolt and a new nut (american) and you could just get the nut into that hole you describe and hold it with an offset wrench and tighten down the new bolt. This (as you can guess) was not easy. I think I may have had to grind the nut down a bit. But, I finally got it to work and it's been all good for 50K miles. I left the old nut in place (after I had stripped it completely), and put the new nut on top. Use the heavy-duty locktite, you don't want to deal with this again. If you need more assistance, let me know. Tom E Thomas Data Network Engineer | Project Manager BadgerNet | BNS | DTM | DOA | State of Wisconsin tom.thomas@doa.state.wi.us "the Net treats censorship as damage and routes around it." -John Gilmore From BeattyR at ummhc.org Fri Mar 2 09:05:32 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: cobram@juno.com [mailto:cobram@juno.com] Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 10:41 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? Some silicone and an exhaust holder and the new bushing slides right in...nice. Put the bolt in, lines right up with the nut in the frame. HAND tighten with ratcheting box end, can hear the nut in frame clacking back and forth. Get bolt head up to big washer and F(*&, it just spins and doesn't tighten. Take the bolt out.....and the threads of the new bolt now contain the wedges from the frame nut. There is a small hole in the front of the frame, where you can almost get your finger in, can't even feel the nut. NOW WHAT? From what I can see, I'm going to have to cut a hole in the frame to get to the nut and replace it. I'm thinking of tapping it one size larger, but would have to remove the subframe, and the way the nut in the frame moves up and down I don't think I'll be able to do it. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.htmlRJ Cobram, I have an 87 5ktq and have seen this problem before in my car. In the 86/87/88 5k there is an access hole in the frame horn where it bends upward after the subframe mount. It is possible to get a wrench in there. What I had to do was superglue a 15mm nut into my box end wrench and manouver it over the bolt hole, lining it up visually 1st and then sliding a new bolt up in there and tightening it down. It was surprisingly easy to do when i did this, i had already jacked up the subframe against the car and just had to line up the wrench/nut correctly and it tightened right up. If you dont have this access hole, the only thing i can think of is cutting a hole for access into that part of the frame. I dont know if you could just retap it, someone else here on the list may have that wisdom, perhaps Phil??? Good luck Rob From smitty at pcrealm.net Fri Mar 2 09:13:10 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Vacuum Noise in 5K References: <5.0.1.4.2.20010302003223.009f3670@mail.flashmail.com> Message-ID: <3A9FAA75.1CE3D2B0@pcrealm.net> I have heard the hissing vacuum noise on a few cars, my own urQ for one, and it sounded like it was coming from the ECU area. I put a small in-line type fuel filter in the line and the hiss disappeared. Could have been a poor connection that got fixed in the process though. Smitty From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Fri Mar 2 15:17:31 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?US-ASCII?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: <60.c07cc7a.27cf1f3a@aol.com> Message-ID: I don't like the idea of taking material of the piston in a turbo engine. You want the piston rings as low as possible on the piston to ease the detonation load on the rings and ring lands. The piston top shoud also be as thick as possible to handle detonation. I think that a call to JE pistons will be the best deal in the long run. Or you could use a thick copper gasket to lower compression. Jorgen From sbigelow at sprint.ca Fri Mar 2 09:15:22 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? References: <20010301.224050.-1549165.1.Cobram@juno.com> Message-ID: <005f01c0a323$38a9aa40$3d906395@big1> > Looking for some BTDT. > > and doesn't tighten. Take the bolt out.....and the threads of the new > bolt now contain the wedges from the frame nut. There is a small hole in > the front of the frame, where you can almost get your finger in, can't > even feel the nut. > > NOW WHAT? From what I can see, I'm going to have to cut a hole in the > frame to get to the nut and replace it BTDT. Cut a hole in the frame to replace a stripped captive nut in my coupe when doing subframe bushes. No ill effects. From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Fri Mar 2 14:07:24 2001 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC References: Message-ID: <007901c0a323$c08999c0$de6fa8c0@jim> ----- Original Message ----- From: ; > > The driver has said nothing - his wife has made a statement denying that > he fell asleep but carefully not actually attributing this information > to direct input from her husband. The driver has said nothing to the press - he has however, been 'helping the police with their enquiries' - on and off for the last couple of days. > He was towing a trailer with another car on it. If you lose control of > a rig like that for mechanical reasons such as a tyre failure, all hell > breaks loose in a handbasket. But the aerial pictures of the crash > scene show a nice pair of parallel tracks going right down to the > railway. He got all the way to the tracks with the trailer upright. When I saw the first news footage of the Land Rover and trailer come in on Wednesday morning I thought 'No way'. Not only was the trailer still connected to the Land Rover, the Renault was still on the trailer. The only comforting thought is that the field that the passenger train ended up in was several feet under water a few months ago. Regards, Jim Haseltine From tbliss at mestek.com Fri Mar 2 09:40:45 2001 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: [V8] Re: [A8] V8 Displacement References: <4.3.2.7.2.20010301202241.00ba54a0@pop.mindspring.com> Message-ID: <3A9FB0ED.81693C73@mestek.com> Ya, the good news, is I have a shop with lift, and power and air tools. I'd do what I could myself. Thanks. "Horace K. Sawyer" wrote: > Well, thats a tall order. : ) You could do plan one: do a head job only > where they are removed. The air passageways of the intake manifold and > head are ground out, polished smooth, and shaped to improve air flow. Now > *how* it is done can be subject to debate. It is probably possible to > remove material in the wrong place, take out too much material, not enough, > or otherwise disturb the air flow, all of which may actually worsen > things. Generally, you see some improvement unless the shop doing it is > completely and hopelessly lame. Some posit the theory that airflow > surfaces should be roughed in some areas to create turbulence, swirl the > air to more or less mix it up -- all for the purpose of obtaining a fuel > mixture that will burn more efficiently, ergo more power. > > Plan two: do all that, plus remove the engine, pull the crankshaft, rods > and have all that balanced perfectly. It seems that stock cranks are not > perfectly balanced. Perfecting this has been known to produce marvelous > results, with longer engine life, and of course increased power. > > Expense: I haven't the foggiest -- but you see it would be substantial > unless you are doing much of the labor yourself on the remvoval and > installation. > > hk > > At 09:57 AM 3/1/01 -0500, Theron J. Bliss wrote: > > Ok, here's my chance to sound like a complete retard. I was > >curious about a couple of aspects to increase output of my 3.6 liter > >motor. I have heard that porting and polishing, and blue printing and > >balancing would greatly improve the output and response of my motor. > >Here are my questions on that: > >What is involved in doing this? > >Will it really make much difference? > >What kind of costs should I expect? (will I have to sell my kids?) > > > > Secondly, I had heard that the 3.6 and 4.2 liter motors have the > >same block. Does this mean I can get 4.2 heads, and bolt those onto my > >motor, and have a 4.2 with 270 +/- hp? > >Do cams do much for these motors? > > > >TIA (from a guy who obviously has no clue. Hey, I've been a 4 banger VW > >guy all my life) > > > >Theron J. Bliss > >Massachusetts > >1990 V8 Quattro > >198,000 miles > >Lago Blue, Grey Connolly leather > > > >http://sites.netscape.net/theronbliss/homepage > > > > > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > >a8 mailing list > >a8@audifans.com > >http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/a8 > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans v8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:v8@audifans.com > Manage your list options: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 From parting4kq at hotmail.com Fri Mar 2 10:05:34 2001 From: parting4kq at hotmail.com (Chris Woodward) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Parting out 2x Audi 4kq Message-ID: Sorry for the BW all. I have 2 1984 Audi 4kq's that I am selling for parts. I didn't end up needing many for my track car project so there is still quite a bit left. Decent dk brown interior (excellent except for cig burns on driver seat), 2 complete running engines & good trannys, 4 ronal wheels, glass, body panels, tail lenses, bumpers, MAS, ISV, many interior bits, etc. WHY am I selling? I bough these cars from a Q-lister thinking I would make one into a track car. It ended up being way too rusty underneath for my southern tastes. I have made a deal for a low-mile CA car that will make a much nicer track car. Since I won't be needing many of these parts, I'd rather recoup some money and let people who need them use them. Cars are near Atlanta, GA, so you can pick up or I have the means to ship most items. Obviously shipping is less of a cost effective option for large items like hoods, doors, complete interior, etc. But I will nonetheless accomodate you for actual shipping costs + packaging if it's extreme. I have a digital camera so if aesthetics is important for the parts you are considering, I can e-mail photos. Everything is cheap, please make offers. I only have vague ideas what most of this goes for on the used market so use that to your advantage when making offers. I just want rid of these things so my fiancee' doesn't kill me when the next car arrives later this month. Reply requests direct, NOT to the list, or to parting4kq@hotmail.com Thanks again for the BW all. Now back to your regularly scheduled programming. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From robert at s-cars.org Fri Mar 2 10:08:16 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Strange happenings - ABS Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010302095756.0212c790@mail.charter.net> Hi Y'all, The patient - my '95 urS6. For some time now the "Antilock Off" indicator light has been flashing on sometimes. I suspected that the "gear teeth" portion of the speed sensor somewhere has gotten futched up (technical term) and that was the cause of the problem. This morning I started the engine and switched the headlights and wipers on. The indicator light came on immediately. I turned the lights off and the ABS light went off. The ABS light came on regardless of which lights may or may not have been operating at the time. Turn the stalk light switch to the first or second position with the dimmer switch set to either high or low beams and with auxiliary lights either on or off made no difference. Turn the stalk switch on the ABS light turned on. Turn the stalk switch off and the ABS light went off. I drove the car on slick (freezing drizzle) roads and did a panic stop test with the ABS warning light shining brightly. The ABS activated as it is supposed to do under these circumstances and the warning light turned off and stayed off regardless of the position of the light switch. Does anyone have a clue as to what the dickens is going on? Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From mvanbogart at hotmail.com Fri Mar 2 07:37:42 2001 From: mvanbogart at hotmail.com (Matt Van Bogart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: WTB: MC engine for conversion Message-ID: Ideal donor: Totaled, running car, non-auto. Or maybe you have a 5kt parts car you wouldn't mind selling the motor, ancillaries and harness out of. Matt mvanbogart@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From JShadzi at aol.com Fri Mar 2 10:53:04 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? Message-ID: <22.129d46c1.27d11be0@aol.com> In a message dated 3/2/2001 6:16:43 AM Pacific Standard Time, jurg@pp.sbbs.se writes: > > I think that a call to JE pistons will be the best deal in the long run. > Yes, I agree, but if I could remove a small amount and still have a strong piston, it could be an affordable option. $1000 for pistons would make the project impossible anyway...if it was'nt for that mortgage...maybe I could live in the car....hmmm. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010302/d5cf7ea3/attachment.htm From steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca Fri Mar 2 10:57:51 2001 From: steve.sears at soil-mat.on.ca (Steve's Mail) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Fan Fuse Message-ID: <002b01c0a331$89c3a800$21b8e2d1@steve> Orin wrote: > A small electronic simulation of a volcano in the instrument cluster just > didn't convey the appropriate amount of urgency. Indeed. Because it's the low windshield washer fluid warning. The over-temperature warning is a red thermometer (which some think looks like a key). Man, did that ever fool me when I took my 5ktq out for its inaugural run after buying it and doing some major PO-inattention catchup - went flying down the highway at about 11:00 pm when all of a sudden [volcano!] light comes on - WAAAAAH!! Slammed clutch to floor and coasted off nearest off ramp - shut car down for about 20 min. and then limped back home along same highway doing about 40 km/h and low RPM - light coming on occasionally. Pulled into driveway and parked it - shorted out the after run switch to allow coolant to flow immediately after shutdown until about 5 min afterwards - I did note that the coolant did not seem to be boiling over, but hey, what do I know. Two days later the owner's manual arrives from Dyment Publishing - DOH! (insert slap to the forehead sound here) - installed blue cheap stuff and haven't seen the light since. Cheers! Steve 1987 5ktq - thinking about hooking ww fluid level sensor to my coffee cup - coffee runs out more and it's more expensive to replace 1980 5k - no sensor, but at least a couple of wwaf in the trunk 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - hard to burn out a manual wwaf pump From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Fri Mar 2 17:09:20 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: <22.129d46c1.27d11be0@aol.com> Message-ID: > Yes, I agree, but if I could remove a small amount and still have a strong > piston, it could be an affordable option. $1000 for pistons would make the > project impossible anyway...if it was'nt for that mortgage...maybe I could > live in the car....hmmm. I think that you could get away with a bit less money then that for the JE pistons. I think that somewhere between $600 and $700 is possible. I will experiment with a 3mm copper gasket to lower compression during this year. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden From quattro at brettd.dsl.speakeasy.net Fri Mar 2 11:31:54 2001 From: quattro at brettd.dsl.speakeasy.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: <22.129d46c1.27d11be0@aol.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 2 Mar 2001 JShadzi@aol.com wrote: > > > > I think that a call to JE pistons will be the best deal in the long run. > > > Yes, I agree, but if I could remove a small amount and still have a strong > piston, it could be an affordable option. $1000 for pistons would make the > project impossible anyway...if it was'nt for that mortgage...maybe I could > live in the car....hmmm. My father's Calloway 944 turbo has pistons milled down to lower the compression for the fairly high levels of boost the engine sees. Calloway is considered one of the top turbo guys, if it means anything(he's best known for crazy twin turbo corvette mods...yikes!) Too bad it's sitting in a million pieces right now... B From fdekat at sentex.net Fri Mar 2 08:33:34 2001 From: fdekat at sentex.net (Frank de Kat) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: (no subject) Message-ID: <3.0.6.32.20010302083334.009b1160@sentex.net> >Message: 3 >Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2001 15:28:20 -0800 >From: Huw Powell >Reply-To: one@humanspeakers.com >Organization: HUMAN Speakers >To: Mathieu Tetrault >CC: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: coupe gt to coupe gt quattro? > > >> i have a 1986 coupe GT automatic . i want to know if one day i found >> a 4000 quattro for part. can i switch the manual transmission and the >> differential to fit on my GT >> >> it is difficult? can i fit any year on my 1986. if you have >> experience tanks to let me know. > >Sure, you'd need a lot of parts though. drivetrain, of course. >floorpan. front subframe. entire rear suspension. rear brake lines, >proportioning valve. exhaust system. > >worth it, maybe if you also swap in a turbo engine... but not exactly a >weekend project. More like a summer of weekends! > >Martin Pajak has done it, but he's crazy. > >-- >Huw Powell In response to Mathieu's original question, could not a 4000q transmission go directly into a coupe, *IF* the rear diff lock was permanantly locked? This may give other gear ratio options to the coupe racers too...? Regards, Frank de Kat fdekat@sentex.net Dundas, Ontario, Canada Audi 4000CSq (x2 !) http://www.sentex.net/~fdekat (To see "The Rally Pictures") From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 16:35:00 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: > The driver has said nothing to the press - he has however, been > 'helping the police with their enquiries' - on and off for the last > couple of days. And an appeal for witnesses to the vehicle leaving the road today. Even at 06:00 am, there were probably quite a few about on the M62 - especially because the Snake is _STILL_ closed! > When I saw the first news footage of the Land Rover and trailer come > in on Wednesday morning I thought 'No way'. Not only was the trailer > still connected to the Land Rover, the Renault was still on the > trailer. The only comforting thought is that the field that the > passenger train ended up in was several feet under water a few > months ago. Not so funny part 1 - the Landrover's insurance company is likely to be liable for the lot. They've confirmed the policy is "unlimited third party liability". I bet their calculations allowed for a few other cars and compensation to their passengers - not for an InterCity HST set, a Type 56 locomotive, a dozen or so coal trucks and compensation claims from a couple of hundred people, including for thirteen (at least) fatalities plus the rescue and clearup costs. HST sets are like hen's teeth - Richard Branson was recently reported as offering GBP20 million a pop. No one was selling. See http://www.drake.co.uk for what happens when a UK motor insurer is forced out of business by claims. The PPB only indemnifies private individuals - the legal battles will last for years. Unless they can somehow wriggle out of liability, which I doubt. Not so funny part 2 - Fortis is also my insurance company and I have a claim in process. Still, compared with being killed or maimed I have to be one of the less affected of the victims. -- Phil From rrrrraudi at yahoo.com Fri Mar 2 08:58:00 2001 From: rrrrraudi at yahoo.com (mike mcclurg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Hurrah, fixed an intermittent ABS light! ..was.. Strange happenings - ABS In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.2.20010302095756.0212c790@mail.charter.net> Message-ID: <20010302165800.35697.qmail@web12508.mail.yahoo.com> --- Robert Myers wrote: > For some time now the "Antilock Off" indicator light > has been flashing on > sometimes. This seems to be a popular, timely topic, so I’ll give you my BTDT. The catch is – I’ll tell you what I did....and I hope there is someone out there who can tell me and the rest of us why it worked. First thing is don’t let your car (’89 100q) know that you are trying to fix an intermittent ABS light. A few weeks ago mine had started to come on very sporadically for a few seconds at what seemed pretty random times. Next, I noticed that sometimes there was a relationship with turning on various electrical loads, e.g. turn signals, sun roof, etc. So I was starting to think it may be related to a bad circuit or ground. More recently, it was just on most of the time with it going off briefly and randomly. However, as I said, don’t let your car know you are going to try to fix it. Instead, announce in a loud voice that you are going to chase down the reason that the cruise control doesn’t work. Use your MityVac to identify a vacuum leak in the portion of the system under the dash. Clear as much as you can out of the way to get access to the clutch and brake switch/valve assemblies (this may be the key, since I had to loosen the mounting for the relay panel under the dash, which includes the ABS relay). Put it back together and take it apart at least two times, with road tests in between (to check whether the cruise control would work). That done, I still had not fixed the cruise control, but the next day I noticed that the ABS light was out and I haven’t had the light in a week. I know the ABS works because we had some ice and I tested the function. Maybe this weekend I’ll try to fix the cruise control some more and end up fixing something else this time. HTH?????? Mike ’89 100q ’85 4kq __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From BeattyR at ummhc.org Fri Mar 2 12:19:46 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: Speaking of bad days..... Here at the hospital there is a patient up here in the or getting skin grafts because he was drunk, got into the back of his car, and fell asleep/passed out while smoking. WHOOSH! Over 80% of his body is burned, and let me tell you, it doesnt look pretty. All I can say is I NEVER want to experience the pain this guy is going to feel when he wakes up. Rob From audi at mediaone.net Fri Mar 2 12:40:25 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? References: <002301c0a2be$d3300740$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <3AA00539.4C0A2FF3@mediaone.net> TM wrote: > > Hi listers, > I keep hearing about seized rear brake calipers on our quattros, > and just thought of something- if it wasn't extraordinarily > expensive, couldn't one chrome plate the brake caliper? That would > prevent corrosion, as long as the plating didn't make the pistons > fit the caliper body. Is this a crazy idea? OK, I'll bite. How about powder coating the caliper (masking off the piston bore, etc.), using a new spring, and cutting a stainless steel hand brake lever out of some stock, using the rusty old one as a template? -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From audi at mediaone.net Fri Mar 2 12:52:39 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: References: <3.0.6.32.20010302083334.009b1160@sentex.net> Message-ID: <3AA00817.E36DA725@mediaone.net> > >> i have a 1986 coupe GT automatic . i want to know if one day i found > >> a 4000 quattro for part. can i switch the manual transmission and the > >> differential to fit on my GT > >> > >> it is difficult? can i fit any year on my 1986. if you have > >> experience tanks to let me know. > > > >Sure, you'd need a lot of parts though. drivetrain, of course. > >floorpan. front subframe. entire rear suspension. rear brake lines, > >proportioning valve. exhaust system. > > > >worth it, maybe if you also swap in a turbo engine... but not exactly a > >weekend project. More like a summer of weekends! > > > >Martin Pajak has done it, but he's crazy. > > In response to Mathieu's original question, could not a 4000q transmission > go directly into a coupe, *IF* the rear diff lock was permanantly locked? > This may give other gear ratio options to the coupe racers too...? the shifter linkage won't work - which will probably require swapping the tunnel to get the 4kq shifter mounting system. Not saying don't try it, but be prepared for a nightmare... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From Scott at TheHinckleys.com Fri Mar 2 09:48:32 2001 From: Scott at TheHinckleys.com (Scott) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Unlimited Insurance? (Re: Bad day... NAC) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20010302094635.00b53e90@mail.thehinckleys.com> At 16:35 02-03-01 +0000, quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk wrote: >be liable for the lot. They've confirmed the policy is "unlimited >third party liability". No there is a type of insurance unheard of in the US. Here you get insured for x 100 thousand or x million, never unlimited. Scott From armanmik at n-jcenter.com Fri Mar 2 14:00:50 2001 From: armanmik at n-jcenter.com (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Bad day... NAC Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20010302140050.2fb7ec76@mail.n-jcenter.com> > >Message: 12 >To: >From: > >Not so funny part 1 - the Landrover's insurance company is likely to >be liable for the lot. They've confirmed the policy is "unlimited >third party liability". I bet their calculations allowed for a few >other cars and compensation to their passengers - not for an >InterCity HST set, a Type 56 locomotive, a dozen or so coal trucks >and compensation claims from a couple of hundred people, including >for thirteen (at least) fatalities plus the rescue and clearup >costs. > >HST sets are like hen's teeth - Richard Branson was recently reported >as offering GBP20 million a pop. No one was selling. > >See http://www.drake.co.uk for what happens when a UK motor insurer >is forced out of business by claims. The PPB only indemnifies >private individuals - the legal battles will last for years. Unless >they can somehow wriggle out of liability, which I doubt. > >Not so funny part 2 - Fortis is also my insurance company and I have >a claim in process. Still, compared with being killed or maimed I >have to be one of the less affected of the victims. > I see grey-suited corporate lawyers already gathering and hovering like grinning, ghostly vultures on this one . . . "Your Lordship, we feel it is the real fault of the MOT (or whoever is in charge of the road system in the UK) because there was no guard rail to prevent our client's insured from landing on the railway tracks after a gust of wind ("Act of God") caused him to lose control of his vehicle." There's gonna be some real creative blame-shifting done here, and for a LONG time to come. What's it worth to the insurance company in legal fees to get out of paying for this claim? This is a real mess, and my heart goes out to everyone involved in it. Best Regards, Mike Arman From cobram at juno.com Fri Mar 2 15:08:06 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? Message-ID: <20010302.150806.-1468541.0.Cobram@juno.com> Thanks for all the replies. The value in knowing that others have been there and it's not as bad as it seems can never be underestimated. Moral support of immeasurable value. Things seem so much worse than they are until you stand back for a while. The hole in the frame of the 5KS is too small to accomodate a wrench, barely fits a medium size screwdriver. After reading the posts, I think the best way to do this will be to cut a hole in the frame large enough to get a nut in there, drill out of remove the existing nut in the frame. Put the bolt up through the old nut and attach it on top of that with a new nut. Lister says it fits with old nut in place...sounds reasonable since it is a pretty long bolt. Will probably be doing it on Wednesday, ordered the bolts from Mac at Clair ($3.25) but the order will only get into the system Monday. Thanks again. If you think or remember anything else on the subject please let me know. Last time this happened was when I was helping a friend with his Fiero...but evidently it's a common problem on the rear of those cars, because when we pulled up the carpeting, someone had already cut access holes in body for replaceing the weld nuts. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From Kwattro at aol.com Fri Mar 2 15:28:31 2001 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Quattro 20 Years poster - incorrect listings? Message-ID: <39.1155597d.27d15c6f@aol.com> Wow. Just got the 20 years celebration poster from Audi. Nice pictures, nice design. Several misprints, though - all of which are interesting. It has a 1990 coupe quattro listed - however, it's not a 1990 coupe quattro - more like an 84. It has the four sealed beam headlights, which, to my knowledge, weren't available anymore after 85, right? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. It also lists a 80 or 90 DTM car as a V8 DTM, has a COUPE GT listed (how is this related to celebrating the quattro, I ask, although I am happy that I have a factory picture of one now..), and a few major models are missing - specifically, the S2 or 90 Coupe Quattro 20V, the 100 and 200 quattros, and the 5000TQ, all of which surprise me. Also, they list the Rally quattros as Sport Quattros, but the Sport Quattro raod car is missing. Too bad, but still a neat item. Anyone else notice, or am I just nuts? Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From cobram at juno.com Fri Mar 2 15:26:32 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: dinner with Phil Message-ID: <20010302.152633.-1468541.1.Cobram@juno.com> quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk writes: > entertaining. Body search wasn't very good - I gave them a few tips. What did you suggest? Purple exam gloves and synthetic CV grease instead of vaseline? Couldn't resist. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From cz137 at home.com Fri Mar 2 12:06:51 2001 From: cz137 at home.com (cz137@home.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq References: <5.0.1.4.2.20010302033557.00a9fe50@mail.flashmail.com> Message-ID: <003801c0a34b$f0a39160$a0670641@boulder1.co.home.com> Damn, I though that Mann/Mahle would be the same as the genuine Audi. I think I will change my filter first. However when I bought the car a month ago there was no lifter noise, and there was a Fram oil filter on the car. Go figure. Thanks for the response Rich. Cory '87 4kcsq > At 01:14 AM 3/2/01, you wrote: > i don't know honestly... > drive the car and let it warm up thoroughly... > i am using mobil 1 15w50 in my 4kq.. > the lifters are a bit noisy from time to time.. > i should replace them... > > but after warming the engine it seems to end all lifter noise. > make sure you don't run the car hard and shut it off.. > this seems to make the noise worse and last longer after the next startup. > > i have been changing the oil every 1000miles for the last 5,000 miles... > and doing a filter change every 500 miles (or every week).... > oil is definately clean in the engine.. > got some Audi oil filters tonight.. > will let you guys know if this helps @ all..... > > BTW, > i have cut open several oil filters to compare... > the ones i have opened are: > Audi, Mann, Mobil 1, Ac-Delco, and STP, > the Audi and the Mobil 1 are the best.. > the Audi filter is the ONLY filter with a nice little meshtype filter added.. > the Mobil 1 has more paper than any other. but no mesh type filter.. > and the Mann rates 3rd... > The STP looks cheesy... never use one of those again... > but pricewise.. The Mann only cost's 2.99.. > and the mobil 1 is 9.99... > so either Audi or Mann... > but the Mobil 1 is nice.... just not worth 9.99 IMO > HTH! > > -rich > '86 4kq > >I am sure that this has been covered here before, but alas I am new to the > >list. One or more of the lifters on my new to me '87 4kcsq intermittently > >sticks. tick tick tick tick. I use Mobil 1. What does the list wisdom > >reccomend as far as oil additives go? BG MOA? Marvel Mystery Oil? What > >has worked for you? Or is the only remedy to have the lifters > >replaced? What makes them stick in the first place? Thanks in advance:-) > > > >If anyone knows the approximate date of the last in depth sticky lifter > >thread I would love to look it up in the archives. > > > >Cory > >'87 4kcsq > > From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Fri Mar 2 22:20:12 2001 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 200TQ fuel pump & other q's Message-ID: When I turn the ignition on in my '90 200TQ (10v), I can hear the fuel pump run all the time. Isn't it supposed to only run for the time it takes to build up pressure? In addition, the car is hard to start when the temperature drops below 0 (Fahrenheit).. I have to crank it for 10-15 seconds before it catches, today with -10 degrees, it wouldn't start at all, and when it runs, it idles at 2500-3000 rpm most of the time.. Idle/WOT switch and/or vacuum leaks? And in case anyone wonder: I got the car 2 days ago and haven't had the time to sort out the problems yet.. :-) -- Regards, ES From JShadzi at aol.com Fri Mar 2 16:39:41 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq Message-ID: <77.10f3bdac.27d16d1d@aol.com> The best and only true cure is to replace the lifters, BTDT, I threw every concoction into my CGT to no avail, changing the lifters was what finally solved it. Javad From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Fri Mar 2 21:50:05 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: dinner with Phil Message-ID: >> entertaining. Body search wasn't very good - I gave them a few tips. > What did you suggest? Purple exam gloves and synthetic CV grease > instead of vaseline? > Couldn't resist. Comes from an incident in Frankfurt at the height of the RAF terrorist scare in the early 1980s. I went through security with a motorised Leica M4-P hanging - as was my custom - over my left shoulder under my coat. Five or six pounds of steel, not spotted by their checks. I told them, and not long after they adopted the body search used in Stuttgart, Munich, etc. - one pass looking for objects, and then one pass looking for weight. If you get frisked in Germany, you'll notice they slide their hands up inside your inner jacket and lift it to see if there's any great weight or asymmetry. Anything you carry has to be attached to your frame somewhere - it's easier to check for attachment points than search for an object. They also make free-hanging coats swing so they can see if there any concealed weights. Atlanta's body search was the sort of thing used on professional boxers or footballers joining a field - a surface scan for objects, nothing more. -- Phil From sbigelow at sprint.ca Fri Mar 2 16:50:46 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Subframe bushing mounts, now what? References: <20010302.150806.-1468541.0.Cobram@juno.com> Message-ID: <001701c0a362$d74dda60$e8946395@big1> > The hole in the frame of the 5KS is too small to accomodate a wrench, > barely fits a medium size screwdriver. After reading the posts, I think > the best way to do this will be to cut a hole in the frame large enough > to get a nut in there, drill out of remove the existing nut in the > frame. Put the bolt up through the old nut and attach it on top of that > with a new nut. Exactly what I did. Futher memory synapse jogging revealed the bolt snapped off flush in the captive nut, and then the easy-out broke off in the stub. Titanium drill bit cleaned it out, and a cold chisel/hammer cut a hole large enough for a washer and nut to be lowered over the new bolt. I guess the hole could be welded up, but I never worried about it. Patient was an '82 coupe. Damn I miss that car. From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Mar 2 16:59:13 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Brake Light Shenanigans In-Reply-To: <01C0A29D.434DA0E0.powellae@home.com> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010302165857.00bcbea0@traverse.com> Parking brake switch sensitivity? At 10:16 PM 03/01/2001 -0700, Al Powell wrote: >The brake warning light on my 1990 200 is becoming pesky. > >The bomb is known good, passes all pump-down tests, and is relatively >fresh. No problems with Pentosin levels, although a past leak forced >me to replace the front half of the HP hose last summer. No leak >now. > >But the darn brake light takes 30+ seconds to go off in the AM, and >when the car is warm, I sometimes get flickers from it while idling >at a stoplight! It's clearly a non-bomb related problem. > >Any BTDT's? I think I recall some discussion of a possibly related >problem in the past couple of months, but I can't recall specifics. > Was there some mention of a check valve in the pump? > >TIA, friends. Direct replies are appreciated. > >************************************ >Al Powell >Fort Collins, CO >powellae@home.com >cougfan1@gocougs.wsu.edu >************************************ > > From knotnook at traverse.com Fri Mar 2 17:29:25 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 200TQ fuel pump & other q's In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010302172751.00bce2a0@traverse.com> I'd start by checking (squeezing by hand, feeling the bottoms) all air hoses on the engine. Oil mists settling in the bottoms of those hoses rots them there and they can look brand new on top but be leaking air in the bottoms. At 10:20 PM 03/02/2001 +0100, Eyvind Spangen wrote: >When I turn the ignition on in my '90 200TQ (10v), I can hear the fuel >pump run all the time. Isn't it supposed to only run for the time it >takes to build up pressure? In addition, the car is hard to start when >the temperature drops below 0 (Fahrenheit).. I have to crank it for >10-15 seconds before it catches, today with -10 degrees, it wouldn't >start at all, and when it runs, it idles at 2500-3000 rpm most of the >time.. Idle/WOT switch and/or vacuum leaks? > >And in case anyone wonder: I got the car 2 days ago and haven't had >the time to sort out the problems yet.. :-) > >-- >Regards, >ES > > > From sf5ktq at hotmail.com Fri Mar 2 14:36:56 2001 From: sf5ktq at hotmail.com (jim rose) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 44 suspension review... Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010302/9c233c7c/attachment.htm From Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Fri Mar 2 22:36:19 2001 From: Jim at ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Monkey boy strikes again - NAC Message-ID: <000701c0a369$52adf680$de6fa8c0@jim> Overhauled the rear brakes on my ex-wife's car this morning and then took a look at the ABS. The complaint was that after driving the car for a short distance (less than a mile) the ABS warning light would come on - she'd been told that this was 'only an electrical fault, nothing to worry about'. It didn't take me long to find what I think the real fault is. The ABS sensors work in a similar way to those fitted to VAG vehicles but in place of the fine teeth on the cv joint there are large square section 'teeth'. One cv joint has 30 large teeth and the other, obviously newer joint has 48 slightly smaller ones. Couldn't believe my eyes - unless I'm way off track and the car is designed that way, the ABS unit must be very confused. Regards, Jim Haseltine From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Mar 2 18:56:59 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: a few observations. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001801c0a374$786b36c0$d97afea9@noone> Wylie, Although the immobilizer is nice, it also makes chipping the car very difficult. I'll take mine w/o the immobilizer- chip it and put a good alarm in it and a hidden kill switch. Taka From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Mar 2 19:01:35 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.20010302013156.00a3adc0@pop.snet.net> Message-ID: <001901c0a375$1cdcafe0$d97afea9@noone> Ameer, I'm talking about chrome plating the entire assembly. That would help the e-brake mechanism (much less corrosion) and much smoother guide pins. So does anyone know if this is feasible and if it would help significantly? Taka From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Mar 2 19:22:48 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: dinner with Phil In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001d01c0a378$13c42ac0$d97afea9@noone> What, no metal detector? If you managed to carry 5 lbs. of steel through the security checkpoint, you may as well pack a Desert Eagle .50 under your jacket, like Vinnie Jones in "Snatch". :-) Taka From randrews at austin.rr.com Fri Mar 2 18:48:12 2001 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: It's a common misconception to put a thicker gasket in to lower the CR. That won't due. I'd recommend reading Corky Bell's book on turbocharging if you going to get really advanced > -----Original Message----- > From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > Behalf Of Jorgen Karlsson > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 8:18 AM > To: JShadzi@aol.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: RE: Machining Piston to lower compression? > > > I don't like the idea of taking material of the piston in a turbo engine. > You want the piston rings as low as possible on the piston to ease the > detonation load on the rings and ring lands. The piston top shoud > also be as > thick as possible to handle detonation. > > I think that a call to JE pistons will be the best deal in the long run. > > Or you could use a thick copper gasket to lower compression. > > Jorgen > From sitzman at core.binghamton.edu Fri Mar 2 20:02:28 2001 From: sitzman at core.binghamton.edu (Andrew Sitzer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Binghamton NY get together! Message-ID: Hey all.. Dinner is still on. So far eight people are interested. Ps. Please send me a confirmation if possible just so I know how big a table to reserve. Also, Binghamton is only 1 hr south of Syracuse and right near PA -- long distance audi owners are definitly welcome :) When: Tuesday March 6th at 7pm (Wont order until 7:30 though as some people will be arriving late) Where: TGI-Fridays on Vestal parkway (Walmart Shopping center) in Binghamton NY. Who: > DPotter@stny.rr.com > sitzman@core.binghamton.edu - Andrew Sitzer '86 5000S > RIPPMODS@aol.com - 87TQ > dcooke@ptd.net - Dan Cooke, 96 A6Q Avant > dievwsel@hotmail.com - John Emm, 91 CQ Brillant Black w/ Platinum interior > AudiBiTurbo@aol.com - Mark Rosenkrantz > BrutKobain@aol.com - Ian, 85 5kt > mafagan@hotmail.com From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Sat Mar 3 02:32:26 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > It's a common misconception to put a thicker gasket in to lower the CR. > That won't due. I'd recommend reading Corky Bell's book on > turbocharging if > you going to get really advanced There's lots of gaps in the quench area theory. Even well engineered combustion chambers like those on the honda vtec engines respond very positive to thick gaskets. I leave the quench area experiments to the pros, thicker gaskets usually work well. Thicker gaskets are inexpensive, piston sets aren't. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From randrews at austin.rr.com Fri Mar 2 20:08:59 2001 From: randrews at austin.rr.com (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: <00c801c0a380$7f150800$0101fea9@99e6s> Message-ID: I quote from Maximum Boost... " A variety of methods exist to change a compression ratio. Almost all are UNacceptable. The crux of the matter is upsetting the "squish volume" around the rim of the chamber. A chamber is designed so that the charge is pushed towards its center as the piston achieves top dead center. The is perhaps the strongest deterrent to detonation designed into the system, as it tends to either eliminate end gas or keep charge turbulence high. This squish volume is a rim about .3 to .4" wide around the chamber, and approx .04 thick-a big washer-shaped volume between the piston and the head. Consider "squish volume" sacred and do not tamper. It is possible to err so badly in removing the squish that a resulting 7-1 compression ratio may ping worse than a 9-1 with proper squish. Clearly then, choices for reducing compression ratio are limited to opening up selected parts of the head side of the chamber, installing a new piston with a dish in the center, or remachining the original piston to create a dish. It is perhaps a little risky to undertake remachining a combustion chamber, because the thickness of the material is usually unknown. Furthermore, chamber shapes are closely controlled features of most modern engines. If the chamber must be recut, ultrasonic inspection can determine the thickness of the material. Commercial inspection service companies frequently offer this service. An entirely new piston, with the required dish that maintains the squish volume, is a proper approach. Machine a dish into the original piston is sound, provided the top thickness is adequate. A reasonable rule would require the top thickness to be at least 6% of the bore. Approaches to lowering the compression ratio that do NOT work are thicker head gaskets and shorter connecting rods." The reason these companies offer it because they don't know better I presume. Why do you think APR has a Stage IV for the 1.8 with new pistons? They actually have engineers that design this product extensively. You don't increase gasket thickness to get a lower CR. Shame on those other companies for making others think so :) > -----Original Message----- > From: Alexander van Gerbig [mailto:Audi_80@email.msn.com] > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 7:23 PM > To: Rob Andrews > Subject: Re: Machining Piston to lower compression? > > > Than how come Callaway, ND, 8vTurbo, and so on offer this to lower > compression and run higher boost? I am not being critical, I'm really > curious. I will turbocharging my N/A engine shortly, 6psi, and I will not > be lowering my compression via a double gasket. > > Cheers, > > Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 > > The Audi 80 Pages----------------- > http://surf.to/the80pages.com > > North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 > > > From avim at pacbell.net Fri Mar 2 18:25:30 2001 From: avim at pacbell.net (Avi Meron) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: V8 Parts, rod, main bearings, piston rings, std. size Message-ID: Hi girls and boys, I am looking for V8 parts, 3.6 liter (90-91). Rod bearings, std. size Main bearings, std. size Piston rings, std. size Any parts, leads, help, will be appreciated! TIA Avi From amsk at lehigh.edu Fri Mar 2 21:56:57 2001 From: amsk at lehigh.edu (Aaron Sherrick) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: sounds of Stebro (and my "website") Message-ID: Due to the HIGH volume of requests (ok, so maybe 3 or 4), I made an MP3 sound clip of the Stebro exhaust on my 4kq. The clip goes something like this: start --> idle --> ~2500rpm --> idle --> ~4000rpm --> idle. I also made a simple web page that has the links to my picture galleries and the sound clip. Enjoy! http://www.lehigh.edu/~amsk Aaron '86 4kq From Doyt at nwonline.net Fri Mar 2 21:58:21 2001 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq upper rad hose ID Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010302214540.00a55170@mail.nwonline.net> I need to know the inside diameter of both ends of the upper radiator hose. I'm trying to cobble a temporary upper radiator hose for my 87 5ktq, and the car is outside and it is cold and dark, and I can't go out there and take off the old leaking hose and measure the inside diameter. If one of you knows that dimension, I can walk up to the hardware store and buy a short length of radiator hose of the correct inside diameter, and also buy a coupler that same size, and have something that will keep my car running until Tuesday or Wednesday next week, when the correct dealer part gets here.......probably. I ordered it today along with a new banjo fitting-plus-short-hose for the feed to the turbo cooling circuit. I have a Krazy Glue cloth patch on that hose, which had a quarter inch split in it. Both these hoses started leaking at the same time, and I spent two hours on a side street in a strange city trying to patch them up well enough to get home. So, I'm gathering info and planning how to best use my time on Saturday morning, when the stores open up. And that inside diameter info will be real helpful. Doyt Echelberger From spokes at mail.the-wire.com Fri Mar 2 23:20:01 2001 From: spokes at mail.the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Rusty handbrake adjuster...ideas? Message-ID: <983593201.3aa070f1886dd@webmail.the-wire.com> Well, the euphoria of having an amazingly well-working Audi has passed, and I'm back to battling the huge list of 'things to do'. While doing the brakes this week, I went to go adjust the handbrake adjustment back out (it was adjusted a year ago to accomidate worn pads). PLENTY of penetrating oil (as it is just RUST) and away-we-go. Well, I didn't get very far. I had the socket on tight (or, maybe I really didn't) regardless...I rounded the nut. Any ideas on what to do? It seems the only way I can get in there is to un-do the centre support for the driveshaft so I can lower it enough that I can work in there. I have two thoughts: A) I don't want to touch the driveshaft for fear of upsetting some cosmic balance that has built itself up over the 12 year life of the car. I'd hate to have a working emergency brake, only to have problems related to the driveshaft! B)I'm thinking of getting out MR. Dremel and cutting the adjustment rod from the INSIDE of the car, sliding it through the boot and replacing it with a new one. I don't, however, know how it attaches to the actual handle. Does anyone know? Is this a removable piece? If so, I think that's my easiest angle... Ideas, comments, heck..even flames welcomed. -Dave I swear, one day I'm going to work down the list of things to do so that all I have is to worry about is the cosmetics of the car! There are two ways to live life. I choose to no longer live in fear. From orin at WOLFENET.com Fri Mar 2 21:12:30 2001 From: orin at WOLFENET.com (Orin Eman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq upper rad hose ID In-Reply-To: <4.2.0.58.20010302214540.00a55170@mail.nwonline.net> from "Doyt W. Echelberger" at Mar 02, 2001 09:58:21 PM Message-ID: <200103030512.VAA03048@gonzo.wolfenet.com> > I have a Krazy Glue cloth patch on that hose, which had a quarter inch > split in it. Both these hoses started leaking at the same time, and I > spent two hours on a side street in a strange city trying to patch them up > well enough to get home. A few layers of tightly wrapped electrical tape worked for me in the same situation. I'd imagine duct tape would work too. Orin. From cobram at juno.com Sat Mar 3 00:09:25 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: V8 Parts, rod, main bearings, piston rings, std. size Message-ID: <20010303.000926.-1385953.0.Cobram@juno.com> Never needed anything for the V8, but I have bought parts for similar "no internal parts available" engines by going to a good machine shop or rebuilder that does 4N stuff. The Deves Company (I think they're in California) can match up any piston rings you might need, make sure and specify that you need rings for a hypereutectic alloy/aluminum etch cylinder (ala Mercedes and BMW). The Rod and Mains should be an easy match IF you have the old ones. This has saved mucho bucks, especially the Deves rings, as some teutonic companies will not sell piston rings, but only offer the complete piston/ring sets for prices that would put Audi to shame. If you do find anything, please post the specifics. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html On Fri, 02 Mar 2001 18:25:30 -0800 Avi Meron writes: > Hi girls and boys, > I am looking for V8 parts, 3.6 liter (90-91). > Rod bearings, std. size > Main bearings, std. size > Piston rings, std. size > > Any parts, leads, help, will be appreciated! ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From audi at mediaone.net Sat Mar 3 00:29:04 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Rusty handbrake adjuster...ideas? References: <983593201.3aa070f1886dd@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: <3AA0AB50.E792B44F@mediaone.net> > While doing the brakes this week, I went to go adjust the handbrake adjustment > didn't) regardless...I rounded the nut. Any ideas on what to do? It > seems the only way I can get in there is > > B)I'm thinking of getting out MR. Dremel and cutting the adjustment rod from > the INSIDE of the car, sliding it through the boot and replacing it with a new > one. I don't, however, know how it attaches to the actual handle. Does anyone > know? Is this a removable piece? If so, I think that's my easiest angle... I put a new one on my coupe - maybe the design is similar... the rod attaches to the actuator with a rivet, which is available new like the rod is from the dealer. cut off the old one, bimfed the rivet on with a BFH and a punch or two, voila, no rust. of course there was no prop shaft in my way! nice time to get a new saddle/equaliser while you're in there. and use some antiseize on the rod (to protect the threads against rust) and a new stainless lock nut for future ease of adjustment. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From l.leung at juno.com Fri Mar 2 23:36:07 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010303.011221.-3984829.0.l.leung@juno.com> Anyone know who's carrying the Formula 1 season in the US now? If so, what's the schedule for the 4 March 2001 Race in Australia? Thanks! LL - NY From lsm6 at northcoast.com Fri Mar 2 22:18:56 2001 From: lsm6 at northcoast.com (Lloyd McClelland) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Fog lights without headlights? Message-ID: <008001c0a3a9$d5752a80$083ea03f@pavilion> I would like to be able to run the fogs whenever I want by jumping the 30 & 87 terminals do I do that IN the relay or below the relay ? 1988 80Q with stock American headlights and you know what that means... Lloyd in Eureka, Calif -----Original Message----- From: Huw Powell To: Audi Quattro List Date: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:00 PM Subject: Re: Fog lights without headlights? > >> By the way, US cars' fog lights are controlled via a relay such that they >> don't come on until your headlights are turned on to low beam. However, >> there is a modification that can be done to override this and allow >> them to be turned on without turning on the main headlights. Check >> audiworld.com for details. > >Or just say how here... pull the relay adn jump the, um, 30 and 87 >terminals - the ones that form a "T". Then the fogs will be on whenever >the ignition is on. including with the high beams... > >Or, dig around under the fuse box, get to the two wires going to the >relay (one is from the hi/lo switch, the other a roundabout ground) and >connect them to the *high* beam output (from anywhere you can find it) >and the *parking light* output (ditto). Now the fogs will only work >when the parking lights are on and the highs are off. Pix will follow >when I do this to my 90Q... > >-- >Huw Powell > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > From STEADIRIC at aol.com Sat Mar 3 01:26:42 2001 From: STEADIRIC at aol.com (STEADIRIC@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/01 12:24:02 AM, l.leung@juno.com writes: >Anyone know who's carrying the Formula 1 season in the US now? SpeedVision >If so, what's the schedule for the 4 March 2001 Race in Australia? Quallie was live, Sat Night at 9pm Eastern the fun begins! Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From AudiBiTurbo at aol.com Sat Mar 3 01:55:49 2001 From: AudiBiTurbo at aol.com (AudiBiTurbo@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Binghamton NY get together! Message-ID: <6e.840e31b.27d1ef75@aol.com> I'm all good for Tues night. Mark Rosenkrantz AudiBiTurbo@aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010303/51581f3e/attachment.htm From smitty at pcrealm.net Sat Mar 3 01:44:42 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) References: <20010303.011221.-3984829.0.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <3AA092DA.F31F0C37@pcrealm.net> Lawrence C Leung wrote: > > Anyone know who's carrying the Formula 1 season in the US now? > > If so, what's the schedule for the 4 March 2001 Race in Australia? 9:30 est Speedvision From audi at mediaone.net Sat Mar 3 03:23:49 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Fog lights without headlights? References: <008001c0a3a9$d5752a80$083ea03f@pavilion> Message-ID: <3AA0D445.130E8251@mediaone.net> Lloyd McClelland wrote: > > I would like to be able to run the fogs whenever I want by jumping the 30 & > 87 terminals do I do that IN the relay or below the relay ? 1988 80Q with > stock American headlights and you know what that means... Lloyd in Eureka, remove the relay, jump the two little slots with a short wire with males on it or a scavenged A/T relay bypass thing. one caveat - they won't turn off when you turn your highs on anymore. not that you're gonna get flashed with those lights, even in traffic...! > > > > >> By the way, US cars' fog lights are controlled via a relay such that they > >> don't come on until your headlights are turned on to low beam. However, > >> there is a modification that can be done to override this and allow > >> them to be turned on without turning on the main headlights. Check > >> audiworld.com for details. > > > >Or just say how here... pull the relay adn jump the, um, 30 and 87 > >terminals - the ones that form a "T". Then the fogs will be on whenever > >the ignition is on. including with the high beams... > > > >Or, dig around under the fuse box, get to the two wires going to the > >relay (one is from the hi/lo switch, the other a roundabout ground) and > >connect them to the *high* beam output (from anywhere you can find it) > >and the *parking light* output (ditto). Now the fogs will only work > >when the parking lights are on and the highs are off. Pix will follow > >when I do this to my 90Q... > > > >-- > >Huw Powell > > > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > > > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > > -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From lubedealer at juno.com Sat Mar 3 06:54:59 2001 From: lubedealer at juno.com (lubedealer@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Headlight/Park assembly FS Message-ID: <20010303.065500.-547517.0.lubedealer@juno.com> Still have a Headlight/Park assembly for sale... Off of a 87 5000S (non-turbo)... Passenger side, no scratchs, good reflector, not fogged up.. Asking $60 plus normal UPS shipping... Email me at.... lubedealer@juno.com for more details.... ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From lindgre at online.no Sat Mar 3 15:36:05 2001 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: (no subject) References: <3.0.6.32.20010302083334.009b1160@sentex.net> Message-ID: <3AA10155.1A7F4C06@online.no> Frank de Kat wrote: > In response to Mathieu's original question, could not a 4000q transmission > go directly into a coupe, *IF* the rear diff lock was permanantly locked? > This may give other gear ratio options to the coupe racers too...? I guess you mean the *center* diff lock? This was mentioned in the owners manual for one of my earlier AUdi's, an 84 4kq. What the text said was that "if the car's performance is to be tested in a brake stand, the center drive shaft must be removed and the center diff lock must be engaged" PerL 92 Cabrio 2.3 From lindgre at online.no Sat Mar 3 15:36:13 2001 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... References: <002001c0a2bd$c9183760$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: <3AA1015D.478E43C4@online.no> The 4matic is available with the following engines: E280 E320 E430 E55 AMG All also available as Wagons. Probably an effort to fight off the competition from Audi's quattro models :-) Funny enough, the 4matic is not available in the C or S class, nor any of the coupe's. PerL 92 Cabrio 2.3 TM wrote: > Per, > They make an AMG version of the 4Matic? You Europeans get all of > the cool stuff. Make mine an E55 4Matic Estate. From t44tq at mindspring.com Sat Mar 3 10:16:02 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Check engine light? Message-ID: <000801c0a3f4$dc1b53a0$d97afea9@noone> Listers, I'm having an intermittent problem- for the first 15-20 minutes of driving starting from a cold engine, the check engine light comes on any time I go more than about 1/2 throttle. Then after a while, the problem disappears. Anyone have any idea what this may be? I didn't hear any knocking or anything. Oh, BTW- this is an '86 5ktq. Taka From l.leung at juno.com Sat Mar 3 10:23:28 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010303.102931.-4001277.1.l.leung@juno.com> I must need a dish, FOXNY doesn't even seem to have taped coverage, AND what's listed as SV in my area (not availible anyway) lists the Grand Am race in Homestead for nearly the same time slot. Too bad they don't let dishes here unless mounted in my own space, and I've no clear southern exposure. Thanks for the replies, guess I'm gonna have to rely on Autoweek! :-( LL - NY On Sat, 03 Mar 2001 01:44:42 -0500 Frederick Smith writes: > > >Lawrence C Leung wrote: >> >> Anyone know who's carrying the Formula 1 season in the US now? >> >> If so, what's the schedule for the 4 March 2001 Race in Australia? > > >9:30 est Speedvision From ron_01056 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 07:44:15 2001 From: ron_01056 at yahoo.com (Ron Wainwright) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: 02 replacment Message-ID: <20010303154415.3350.qmail@web1005.mail.yahoo.com> Hello list, I'm going to be replacing my 02 sensore on my 87 5ksq(non-turbo) 02 sensore in cat, while specin the job I noticed that the 4 bolt flange that comes off the front pipe thats attatched to the cat is broken on top, it still holds but woried about bending, or just snapin the rest of the flange completly off, I've called around to see about gettin a replacement and as usuall I can't find or get one, anyone have any sugestions or know where I could get one? What would anyone else do If faced with this problem? I do have an extra front pipe the 4 bolt flange is better because it's not cracked but it's still rusty, plus I don't have to tell anyone how much of a pain it would be to fix the bolts commin of the manifold if one snaps(thats what I want to avoid) but If I have no other choise then I'll do it that way. Any help would be great. Thanks Ron __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From smitty at pcrealm.net Sat Mar 3 10:49:06 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) References: <20010303.102931.-4001277.1.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <3AA11272.264FFB05@pcrealm.net> http://www.speedvision.com/custom/schedules.asp?d=3%2F3%2F2001&days=1&zone=eastern From aleknikolic at hotmail.com Sat Mar 3 11:05:22 2001 From: aleknikolic at hotmail.com (Alex Nikolic) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Irregular MC idle Problem - Emission Test Message-ID: I have received your comments and suggestions for my idling problem. Thank you. However, it appears that I am getting into deeper trouble. My problem was (1986 5000 CD TQ) that without load the motor cannot keep consistant rpm between 1000-3000rpm. The motor either races past 3000rpm or drops by several hundred rpm and than climbs back up. I have checked as suggested, and the car does receive 12V at the middle wire of the throttle switch connector. I then disconnected the throttle switch connector and started the car. The motor raced up to 2500 rpm where it stabilized. It would not come down however. I turned off the motor, and restarted it, this time the motor worked around 1500 rpm???. I then reconnected the throttle switch connector and disconnected the ISV valve electrical connection. The car ran very well. It could keep consistant revolutions between 1000-3000rpm. The motor did not race past 3000 or drop hundreds or rpm as before. I was under the impression that this car was suppose to run very rough without the ISV connected. The idle when the ISV is disconnected is around 800-900rpm. One of the responses I received asked how the car ran at idle. When started from cold, the motor turns at 900-1000rpm. After several minutes of operation the motor climbs to 1200rpm where it stays throughout its operating range except for heavy traffic when the cooling fan comes on several times in a row, the rpm's drop to 800-900. I realize that this is not proper. When I have in the past attempted to lower my idle rpm from 1200 by adjusting the screw on the throttle body, the car cooperated and reduced its rpm to 800. However, once restarted it would go back to 1200rpm. (I have always returned the ajustment screw to where I found it when purchased) Last night, following one of the suggestions received on this email list, I inspected my throttle body carefully. I discovered some vertical play (not the regular side to side) on the spindle. Today I will change the throttle body with one I have on a parts car that does not exhibit this looseness. When I change throttle bodies I will carefully adjust my throttle switch as Ned Ritchie has recommended for both closed and open operation. I am confused with my car working better without the ISV connected. Is this caused by a vacuum leak around the loose throttle body door. Peter Berrevoets mentioned a UrQuattro owners club meeting in Mississauga. I would be very interested in attending. Where can I get more info? Alex Nikolic 86 5000 CD TQ _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From DGraber460 at aol.com Sat Mar 3 11:54:08 2001 From: DGraber460 at aol.com (DGraber460@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: "Lap of the Gods" tape Message-ID: Did anyone catch the program "Lap of the Gods" on Speedvision? Nothing but in car video of all the great race tracks (and some not so great) in Formula 1 cars and a variety of drivers. It covers a period of years, and includes the likes of Mario Andretti, Alain Prost, and Niki Lauda, to name a few. Really some great stuff! If it comes around again, and knowing Speedvision it probably will, it's worth a look. I guess health problems and being unable to sleep at odd hours has a few advantages. Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010303/49d8caac/attachment.htm From chrisdyer at hotmail.com Sat Mar 3 17:22:31 2001 From: chrisdyer at hotmail.com (Chris Dyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:43 2003 Subject: Crazy Idea- thoughts? Message-ID: actually i think chrome rusts relatively easily >From: "TM" >To: "Ameer Antar" >CC: >Subject: RE: Crazy Idea- thoughts? >Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 19:01:35 -0500 > >Ameer, >I'm talking about chrome plating the entire assembly. > >That would help the e-brake mechanism (much less corrosion) >and much smoother guide pins. > >So does anyone know if this is feasible and if it would help >significantly? > >Taka > _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From chrisdyer at hotmail.com Sat Mar 3 17:25:03 2001 From: chrisdyer at hotmail.com (Chris Dyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: speedvision just signed a contract w/bernie www.speedvision.com >From: Lawrence C Leung >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) >Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2001 23:36:07 -0500 > > >Anyone know who's carrying the Formula 1 season in the US now? > >If so, what's the schedule for the 4 March 2001 Race in Australia? > >Thanks! > >LL - NY _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From BrutKobain at aol.com Sat Mar 3 12:43:13 2001 From: BrutKobain at aol.com (BrutKobain@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Binghamton NY get together! Message-ID: Well...I'm still on...although I wont have an Audi to bring with me. I unfortunately will show up in a dodge shadow. But I have to work until 7.30 or so, and as a result I'll prolly show up at fridays around 7.45. see you all then. Ian > Hey all.. Dinner is still on. So far eight people are interested. Ps. > Please send me a confirmation if possible just so I know how big a table > to reserve. Also, Binghamton is only 1 hr south of Syracuse and right > near PA -- long distance audi owners are definitly welcome :) > > > When: Tuesday March 6th at 7pm (Wont order until 7:30 though as some > people will be arriving late) > > Where: TGI-Fridays on Vestal parkway (Walmart Shopping center) in > Binghamton NY. > > Who: > > > DPotter@stny.rr.com > > sitzman@core.binghamton.edu - Andrew Sitzer '86 5000S > > RIPPMODS@aol.com - 87TQ > > dcooke@ptd.net - Dan Cooke, 96 A6Q Avant > > dievwsel@hotmail.com - John Emm, 91 CQ Brillant Black w/ Platinum interior > > AudiBiTurbo@aol.com - Mark Rosenkrantz > > BrutKobain@aol.com - Ian Gall, 85 5kt (RIP) now 89 200TQ > > mafagan@hotmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010303/0dda7745/attachment.htm From Doyt at nwonline.net Sat Mar 3 13:33:39 2001 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq upper rad hose ID Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010303120111.00ab9530@mail.nwonline.net> The upper radiator hose failed and dumped coolant at the upper edge of the clamp, on the end that connects with the head. The hose was about 13 years old and looked very good on the outside. The inside lining had become spongy and resembled 1/8 inch thick black gunk. To make a temporary repair with generic FLAPS parts (while waiting on the dealer to get another hose) I needed to know the inside diameter of both ends. No one on the list replied with that value. So, I have assumed no one knew it. This post will document the answer that resulted from measuring the inside diameter of the old hose when I took it off this morning. The upper radiator hose coolant outlet pipe on the head measured 1.25 inches outside diameter at the ridge on top of the outlet. The old hose had stretched beyond that dimension and was more than 1.25 and less than 1.5 inches inside diameter, both at at the head and at the upper plastic radiator connection. You might want to carry a spare piece of such hose, and a connector pipe and some clamps and a sharp knife. To effect the temporary repair, I cut off the hose at the failure point above the clamp, and discarded the one inch section containing the failure where it had been held by the clamp. I could have just pushed the remaining hose down onto the nipple in the head and re-applied the clamp, but that put some tension on the hose between the head and the radiator. The radiator has a historically fragile plastic nipple that might break off from any tension, so I tried to find a way to reduce that tension. Any engine movement might have increased that tension. I bought a 1.5 inch OD straight plastic hose connector pipe at my FLAPS and cut the remaining upper rad hose about half way between the "T" and the head nipple. This preserved the existing bend in the hose near the head. I inserted and clamped the connector pipe between the cut ends and got about an inch extra length at that point. This extra length was enough to eliminate the tension in the hose. So there you have it. The repair looks good for about another 6 months or a year, maybe. But I have a new molded hose on order. Other owners might benefit from replacing that very complex and expensive molded upper hose before it fails, especially if it is about 13 years old. The dealer needs a few days to get another one for you if the failure happens on some cold winter night and dumps all your coolant. Might be a good candidate for planned maintenance. Wish I had been that smart. But the outside of that hose looked so good........ Doyt Echelberger 87 5ktq From rickert at engr.orst.edu Sat Mar 3 10:55:11 2001 From: rickert at engr.orst.edu (Luke Rickert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: stock 90q springs wanted and 15" wheels for sale Message-ID: <3AA13E0F.F150AD2A@engr.orst.edu> I am planning for some major suspension renewal on my 4kq and would like to start amassing the necessary parts. I will be replacing the springs, wheel bearings, struts, strut bearings and probably a few tie rods, the rear ball joints and other assorted parts. As a result of earlier discussion of springs I have decided to go with a set of stock 90q springs. They are stiffer than the 4kq variety which should help to get rid of the rear sag, reduce understeer and gain a little ground clearance. Does anyone have a set of stock 90q springs sitting around they would like to get rid of for a reasonable price? I would also appreciate any recommendations for parts sources. I have used Blau in the past, but would like to look around a little more this time. The Parts Connection seems to be popular from what I have seen on this list. I have a set of 5 spoke "Superior" 15 inch wheels (with concentric spacers) off my 4kq that I do not want anymore. They are in good shape although a bit dirty looking. I can post some photos if anyone is interested. I would be willing trade them for set of stock 14's, a reasonable offer, springs, or something else I need. I live in Corvallis OR, and occasionally head up to the Seattle area where my parents live, so anyone living along the NW, I-5 corridor should be able to avoid messing around with shipping. thanks Luke -- Luke Rickert www.engr.orst.edu/~rickert From arcopunk at hotmail.com Sat Mar 3 19:02:20 2001 From: arcopunk at hotmail.com (d s) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: body trim removal Message-ID: Does anybody have an idea how to remove the plastic mid panel trim off an 87cgt. It is damaged from the recovery of the rollover and i plan to replace it. any help is appreciated. Thank you, derrick stevens 87cgt _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From GMBCHEF at aol.com Sat Mar 3 14:02:45 2001 From: GMBCHEF at aol.com (GMBCHEF@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: "Lap of the Gods" tape Message-ID: I got it on tape last night and am watching it now! Gary From sholtby at yahoo.co.uk Sat Mar 3 19:44:03 2001 From: sholtby at yahoo.co.uk (=?iso-8859-1?q?SIMON=20HOLTBY?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Delco/Bose Radio Reqd (NAC) Message-ID: <20010303194403.97130.qmail@web11501.mail.yahoo.com> The radio/cassette in my camaro is only giving audio output to the left speakers and makes a buzzing sound when switched off. Do any American members know where I can purchase a second hand unit. The radio is a Delco/Bose unit, ie the type that only works with amplified speakers. It has auto reverse,AM/FM stereo, music search etc. By the way I have tested the speakers and they are OK. I was going to buy one from Carparts.com but their latest policy is not to accept UK credit cards because UK banks are the only ones that will not confirm the billing address. I'm a bit dissapointed about this as they have a great web site that sells almost everything for most cars. Finally if any UK members are reading this do you know of any nationwide motor factors that sell that sound deadening material that goes under the bonnet as mine is looking rather tatty. Thanks. Simon Holtby '88 Camaro IROC ____________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.co.uk address at http://mail.yahoo.co.uk or your free @yahoo.ie address at http://mail.yahoo.ie From lee at wheelman.com Sat Mar 3 15:25:40 2001 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee M. Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: A6/S6 - upgrading to e-code headlamps In-Reply-To: <200103010221.VAA05600@audifans.com> Message-ID: I just ordered a set of e-code headlamps from pgperformance for my S6. I have a quick question for anyone that's already done this upgrade. Is this a plug and play upgrade or will I have to fabricate a wiring harness? (I'll be running stock wattage bulbs, at least for now. I understand that higher wattage bulbs requires relays inside the lamp assy.) Any BTDTs with regard to removal and replacement of the headlamp buckets? And finally, pgperformance offered me a set of optional clear side markers. I assume that this is strictly a cosmetic upgrade, correct? I may go for a second set at some point for my wife's A6...we'll see how this first upgrade goes :) Thanks! Lee '95.5 Audi S6 avant '96 Audi A6 quattro avant From msuryadarma at mail.wesleyan.edu Sat Mar 3 16:11:21 2001 From: msuryadarma at mail.wesleyan.edu (Martin Suryadarma) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator advice Message-ID: Hi Listers, I think the time has come for me to replace my car's radiator. It's 89 Audi 100 btw. I talked to my mechanic about it, he told me he doesn't really like the metal radiator because it can't really fit in the car. Now the way I see it, if this original radiator lasts 10 years, then if I put an OEM one it should last another 10 years right? What do you think? How about pricewise? I haven't checked TPC yet, but Blau has the OEM one for $180. How much is the metal radiator? Also, how long does it normally take for shops to replace it? I'm going to call my mechanic again on Monday and compare what you guys suggest with his price. Thanks a lot in advance, as always. Martin From lindgre at online.no Sat Mar 3 22:18:51 2001 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: A6/S6 - upgrading to e-code headlamps References: Message-ID: <3AA15FBB.D1FE62A@online.no> "Lee M. Levitt" wrote: > And finally, pgperformance offered me a set of optional clear side markers. > I assume that this is strictly a cosmetic upgrade, correct? Yes, the Euro unit does not have the orange side reflector. You decide whether you'll keep this US/Can-only safety feature. Even though this car: http://www.kak.net/audi/audis4c4-10s.jpg is an S4 not S6 the side markers will look like this. PerL 92 Cabrio 2.3 From KAMMLER1 at aol.com Sat Mar 3 16:22:45 2001 From: KAMMLER1 at aol.com (KAMMLER1@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: '95 90 sport quattro in Milwaukee Message-ID: <18.998193a.27d2baa5@aol.com> There has been a red 1995 90 sport quattro 5-speed sitting on the lot of our only Audi dealer here in Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA for the last six months or so....... I am highly attracted to it and take a look anytime I'm in the neighborhood :) Does anyone have any info on it, or know why it seems so unsellable (other than the $15,000 asking price, lol)? Does anyone know about how many 1995 90 sport quattros were imported to the US? thanks! Dean Kammler '98 A4 1.8T '76 Corvette -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010303/d6d5bc57/attachment.htm From muellerl at cadvision.com Sat Mar 3 15:25:51 2001 From: muellerl at cadvision.com (Leah and David Mueller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: I may be insane but.... References: <200103031704.MAA25781@audifans.com> Message-ID: <002601c0a420$24cb8400$618d94cf@ibmam82mal> Dear Listers Doing some research regarding the early to mid ninety automatic quattros such as the V8 and 100CS models. My wife is getting some arthritis problems and the shifting of gears in city driving is sometimes taxing for her now. We still would like quattros but wonder if we can afford the V8 or othersk, like the avant quattros, that came with auto and V6 motor. What one of these would be a better choice on a family budget? Maintenance and reliablity? Are the autos of these years more reliable than past ones? What about rack and steering pump leakages? The price of the early V8 are getting down to around 10,000 grand. I have seen a 1994 100cs avant quattro advertised for 16,000 grand. These are in Canadian dollars. Thank you for as many replies and maintenance costs as possible on these issures. Maybe we should get an auto Previa instead? David 86 4kq and Toyota Previa AWD 5spd. From smitty at pcrealm.net Sat Mar 3 18:26:38 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator advice References: Message-ID: <3AA17DAE.CA936E10@pcrealm.net> http://zzmotors.com/cgi-bin/ePages.storefront/839363768/Product/View/16835-328709 $160.00 oem. From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 16:03:12 2001 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator advice In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010304000312.13612.qmail@web4404.mail.yahoo.com> --- Martin Suryadarma wrote: > Hi Listers, > > I think the time has come for me to replace my car's > radiator. It's 89 > Audi 100 btw. I talked to my mechanic about it, he > told me he doesn't > really like the metal radiator because it can't > really fit in the car. Now > the way I see it, if this original radiator lasts 10 > years, then if I put > an OEM one it should last another 10 years right? > What do you think? > > How about pricewise? I haven't checked TPC yet, but > Blau has the OEM one > for $180. How much is the metal radiator? Also, how > long does it normally > take for shops to replace it? I'm going to call my > mechanic again on > Monday and compare what you guys suggest with his > price. Thanks a lot in > advance, as always. > > Martin > I've said this before, for what it's worth. I have OEM plastic in both my type 44's. They lasted 11 and 13 yrs. and over 150k miles before they started weeping at the alloy fins and the plastic became brittle.(I broke the small nipple off both trying to replace the overflow hose) I got mine from Autobahn in Georgia for $160. These were AKG or whatever but were an identical match for the originals in every way. Installation was a snap. I did replace my rubber mountings as they came apart when removed. Jim Accordino From cobram at juno.com Sat Mar 3 19:43:44 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator advice Message-ID: <20010303.194345.-35314159.0.Cobram@juno.com> Go to: http://discountradiators.com/ , they sell all metal radiators. I recently put one in the 1990 TQA, and it fit perfectly, one of the weld nuts under the radiator was a different size from the original, quickly remedied with a different size stud buffer...you should change all the clamps and hardware anyway. Good time to change ALL the hoses and the thermostat as long as you're there. Put all the old hoses in a bag and keep them in the trunk in case of an emergency, and you won't have to go chasing around hardware and parts stores on Saturday mornings pulling a "McGiver". If you plan on keeping the car the all metal radiator is your best bet. The other big advantage is the line that goes to the reservoir, these have a tendency to break off of the plastic radiators rather easily, on the metal replacement there is a nice long SOLID metal line for attaching the reservoir. I think the radiator in your car is the same as the 200TQA, $124.00 delivered to your door. Your mechanic is wrong about them not fitting. I went through the receipts for the Avant, and the radiator was changed at the dealer about 6 years ago (charged owner almost $500), this OEM radiator blew the top hose right off about 3 weeks ago. I would only opt for a plastic radiator if I was selling the car, or there is no other option available. IMHO It's a very simple job, only thing that might complicate it is frozen/rusted hardware. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html Martin Suryadarma writes: > I think the time has come for me to replace my car's radiator. It's > 89 Audi 100 btw. I talked to my mechanic about it, he told me he > doesn't really like the metal radiator because it can't really fit in the > car. > for $180. How much is the metal radiator? Also, how long does it > normally > take for shops to replace it? I'm going to call my mechanic again on > Monday and compare what you guys suggest with his price. Thanks a > lot in > advance, as always. ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From cobram at juno.com Sat Mar 3 20:55:45 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 87 5ktq upper rad hose ID Message-ID: <20010303.205547.-35314159.2.Cobram@juno.com> "Doyt W. Echelberger" writes: > one knew it. This post will document the answer that resulted from > measuring the inside diameter of the old hose when I took it off Or you could just make it a habit to replace the hoses whenever you change the radiator, and keep the old ones as spares in the trunk. The top hose (assuming it's the same as the 200TQA) is not a dealer only item. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From hey9811 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 20:03:30 2001 From: hey9811 at yahoo.com (Virtual Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: [urq] More from the dark side... In-Reply-To: <3AA1015D.478E43C4@online.no> Message-ID: > All also available as Wagons. Probably an effort to fight off the competition > from Audi's quattro models :-) Funny enough, the 4matic is not available in the > C or S class, nor any of the coupe's. Rumorville has it that C and S class will soon get 4-Matics. To me, the most amazing thing was Jaguar/Ford X-Type. I heard a lot of MFRs talk about AWD, but X-Type is definitely the surprise which the talk actually followed through without delays or canceled altogether. ------------- clip here with virtual scissors -------------- ************************************************************ Keyboard stuck error. Press F1 to continue. Any unsolicited e-mails will be charged US$500 per e-mail, plus court cost. Your contribution to Bill Gates' personal wealth: US$359.17 ************************************************************ From msuryadarma at mail.wesleyan.edu Sat Mar 3 21:24:04 2001 From: msuryadarma at mail.wesleyan.edu (Martin Suryadarma) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: More from the dark side - Jaguar X-Type In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Actually, according to their website, www.x-type.com, the X-Type will have AWD. The system is called Traction4. The system transfers 60% of the engine's torque to the rear wheels and 40% to the front. Martin On Sat, 3 Mar 2001, Virtual Bob wrote: > most amazing thing was Jaguar/Ford X-Type. I heard a lot of MFRs talk > about AWD, but X-Type is definitely the surprise which the talk actually > followed through without delays or canceled altogether. > From amsk at lehigh.edu Sat Mar 3 22:14:16 2001 From: amsk at lehigh.edu (Aaron Sherrick) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: Today I went on my adventure to New Jersey to check out the 5kt. Overall I was a little disappointed, but I guess for the price I should have expected that would be the case. I appreciate any and all thoughts. Thanks! The Engine: - 113k miles, started right up and settled into a nice idle, no smoke from tailpipe, made a sort of grinding noise shortly after being started but then went away, extensive use of duct tape on hoses, (see pictures below) high resolution photos of engine: - http://www.lehigh.edu/~amsk/5kt/ Exterior: - large scratches on the hood that have rusted, below-average paint overall, headlights in good condition, average wheels with scratched up center caps, mismatched tires in good condition, rusted exhaust, should have G60's but not sure Interior: - worn brown interior, torn headliner, smoker, nice working stereo (6 or 8 speaker?), computer looks functional, not sure sunroof works Aaron '86 4kq From cobram at juno.com Sat Mar 3 22:41:48 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: <20010303.224148.-96519543.0.Cobram@juno.com> I woldn't offer more than $100. With a blown tranny you've still got the expensive of towing it. Leave your phone number and a standing offer at or below $100. When he gets tired of looking at it, he'll call the boneyard which will probably want to charge him to haul it away. From the pictures you took that thing should be nicknamed FrankenAudi. Doesn't look like it's had a correct part installed since it left the factory. BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html On Sat, 3 Mar 2001 22:14:16 -0500 "Aaron Sherrick" writes: > Today I went on my adventure to New Jersey to check out the 5kt. > Overall I > was a little disappointed, but I guess for the price I should have > expected > that would be the case. I appreciate any and all thoughts. Thanks! ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From nathan.stuart at maine.edu Sat Mar 3 22:50:27 2001 From: nathan.stuart at maine.edu (Nate Stuart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 References: Message-ID: <003b01c0a45e$40c55850$0300a8c0@newt> Looks as it should for the price. Why worry about the body, and hoses at all? You'll be replacing the hoses in the transplant, and the body is, well.... useless. There is a very limited market for used body panels for these cars due to the galvanization. You will, remember, have to get a manual flywheel, and throttle cam, or rig up a setup using the 4kq cable, and retain the mechanical linkage from the rear of the IM to the TB. Otherwise, if the engine runs properly, and has good compression on all 5 cyl, go for it. It still should have plenty of life left in it at only 113k. You'll probably make money back on the car in the end if you put the effort into parting the rest out and selling it. Later, -Nate > Today I went on my adventure to New Jersey to check out the 5kt. Overall I > was a little disappointed, but I guess for the price I should have expected > that would be the case. I appreciate any and all thoughts. Thanks! > > The Engine: > - 113k miles, started right up and settled into a nice idle, no smoke from > tailpipe, made a sort of grinding noise shortly after being started but then > went away, extensive use of duct tape on hoses, (see pictures below) > > high resolution photos of engine: > - http://www.lehigh.edu/~amsk/5kt/ > > Exterior: > - large scratches on the hood that have rusted, below-average paint overall, > headlights in good condition, average wheels with scratched up center caps, > mismatched tires in good condition, rusted exhaust, should have G60's but > not sure > > Interior: > - worn brown interior, torn headliner, smoker, nice working stereo (6 or 8 > speaker?), computer looks functional, not sure sunroof works > > Aaron > '86 4kq > From radmethod at hotmail.com Sun Mar 4 02:16:15 2001 From: radmethod at hotmail.com (Ricky H.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 4KQ Idle wandering? Questions and Thoughts. Message-ID: In my 4KQ I have an aftermaket cam shaft, and its pretty big. 282 to be exact, and needless to say it changed the way my car runs greatly, the horsepower increase is large but the starting and running of the car is terrible. It only has trouble cold staring, and in warn weather it runs like a top but lately when I come to a stop after driving, the idle wanders up and down up and down like a balance scale but never levels out. Each time it dips it gets progessevly worse. We have disconnected the O2 sensor because the car runs better on a fixed CO setting, but I want to know what else could cause the hunting or wandering of my idle like that, temp sensor? ignition? Any thoughts clues. I have had the cam for about 4 months now and when the car is in motion it pulls hard, and runs like NEW, just idle and start up sucks, the idle lopes, but that is not the wandering problem, the lope is due to the large duarion, i know that, so any help or advice would be apriciated. Thanks. -Rick Heinlein 1987 4000CS Quattro w/super suspension http://www.rickyphunk.iwarp.com/carpage.html "The Audi 4000CS Quattro... a suspension so over built that Audi never built it again!" _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From zed123 at telusplanet.net Sun Mar 4 02:25:37 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: pls help with climate control Message-ID: <04ad01c0a48d$12fdc9a0$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> well, my climate control quit yesterday, and it's stuck on maximum. any suggestions? the car is an 88 5ktq. thanks, Zsolt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010304/0d78fba3/attachment.htm From tnas at euronet.nl Sun Mar 4 11:44:06 2001 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Anyone else notice this? Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010304113910.00b0a500@mail.euronet.nl> Yesterday, BBC2, "I love 1986"- item about the very temporary success of the band 'Five Star', showing their large house and their cars (two Countaches, a Ferrari 328, a Benz SL and a bright red SEC with horrible wheels and chrome wheelarch trim) One of the guys from the band: "Yeah, I had this flash Merc. But what I really wanted in '86 was an Audi Quattro". With chrome wheelarch trim, presumably? Tom From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Sun Mar 4 12:12:56 2001 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: MC intake manifold + ABS Message-ID: When replacing some hoses on my '90 200TQ today, I found this small tube going from the space between the injectors and the intake manifold and ending in a small pipe between the air cleaner housing and the intake manifold. It just goes from one side of the manifold to the other, it is not connected to anything. What is this? Now to the ABS: Is the on/off switch supposed to have 4, 5 or 6 wires connected? The switch has got 6 connectors, but the harness has got 4 or 5 wires to the switch, and two wires continuing to something else. I wonder because the whole harness looks a bit "hacked" by monkey lads/PO.. BTW: I discovered that somebody had connected the cold start valve directly to the starter.. I fixed it, but kept wondering how anyone could do such a hack.. :-) -- Regards, ES From jzwahlen at cerrejon.com Sun Mar 4 08:26:54 2001 From: jzwahlen at cerrejon.com (jzwahlen@cerrejon.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator Advice Message-ID: Based on my experience with our old '85 Audi 5000S, and some additional anecdotal evidence, the plastic on the radiators start to become brittle at 80K miles. This caused my wife to blow the head gasket on this car when his was driving in rush hour traffic in Houston and couldn't get off the expressway. She finally was able to limp the car off the exit ramp but by that time it had lost compression and then wouldn't restart. You can avoid damage to the head gaskets if you stop your car immediately after the radiator dumps, but sometimes this isn't safe to do. My advice is to replace the radiator soon after 80k miles, it's a lot cheaper and easier that pulling the head. I don't think this would be too difficult a job for most do-it-yourselvers. jazman '99 VW Polo Classic 1.6L '94 Porsche 968 '93 Audi 100CS (gone but in good hands) '87 Audi 5000CS TQ (best car I ever owned, also gone) '85 Audi 5000S (I think this car must have died) From Audimobiles at aol.com Sun Mar 4 08:38:21 2001 From: Audimobiles at aol.com (Audimobiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 325xi, A4tq, Sube, vw4motion comparison in new C&D Message-ID: <5b.12a83ee4.27d39f4d@aol.com> Car and Driver putted wagon versions of these cars against each other. I'm not one to let these comparisons sway my opinion on a car, but seeming how the A4 whooped 'em all, it's worth the read. About 10 pages of detailed info and pics. What I find amusing is that of all the cars tested the A4 had the lowest price. Dave Farrer '90 V8Q From Doyt at nwonline.net Sun Mar 4 08:48:33 2001 From: Doyt at nwonline.net (Doyt W. Echelberger) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Anyone else notice this? In-Reply-To: <4.3.2.7.0.20010304113910.00b0a500@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010304080254.00ac5240@mail.nwonline.net> Give the guy a break, Tom :~) He was probably suffering from peer pressure and had to conform or perish in his own insane professional environment. But some little voice inside was screaming his real values and it knew what was in good taste, but he was unable to act on it. He sensed that the 1986 Audi quattro was ten years ahead of its time and had already set the mark that eventually all the others would have to hit. For different reasons, I also was unable to act on my values in 1986. I didn't have $30,000+ to hand over for a car or anything else. But when I saw that 1986 Audi 5000CS turbo quattro on the showroom floor I _knew_ that I would eventually own it somehow, even if I had to wait ten years for it to depreciate to a price I could afford. And I eventually got one about ten years later. It was the most attractive car that I had ever seen in my life. And I drove a used Rabbit (Polo?) at the time. And he drove a Countach or something. Here is an excerpt from the January 1986 Car and Driver, in their 4th annual "Ten Best Cars in The World" series: (Text from above a photo of a red 5000CS turbo quattro) "When will the world bow down to the Audi 5000CS Turbo Quattro and acknowledge that it is the most modern and sophisticated 4 door sedan on the planet? Probably not as long as the prestige leaders- BMW, Jaguar, and Mercedes Benz- keep building cars the old fashioned way." They had it right and lots of people knew it, even that misguided and overly conforming rock star. I'll bet he is probably playing with Elvis right now. Many of them never made it out of the eighties......... Hope you get some sunshine pretty soon. I could use some. It makes my pearl white tq look really fine. I think I can keep my dream alive for a few more years. I wonder what Andre Rieu gets around in........... Doyt Echelberger 87 5ktq >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At 11:44 AM 3/4/01 +0100, you wrote: Yesterday, BBC2, "I love 1986"- item about the very temporary success of the band 'Five Star', showing their large house and their cars (two Countaches, a Ferrari 328, a Benz SL and a bright red SEC with horrible wheels and chrome wheelarch trim) One of the guys from the band: "Yeah, I had this flash Merc. But what I really wanted in '86 was an Audi Quattro". With chrome wheelarch trim, presumably? Tom From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Sun Mar 4 15:41:07 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Corky Bell are of course right, but his 'will NOT work' yelling is not a good idea. There are far to many applications where thicker gaskets work well, this is not only with low power engines but it is successfully used on engines that produce close to 200hp/litre. With the boost levels we are talking about when turbocharging a N/A five cylinder I don't think that there will be any need for a compression reduction anyway. But if it detonates, a thicker gasket is worth a try. I haven't seen any good results with double gaskets, they tend to fail. J?rgen > I quote from Maximum Boost... > " A variety of methods exist to change a compression ratio. > Almost all are > UNacceptable. The crux of the matter is upsetting the "squish volume" > around the rim of the chamber. A chamber is designed so that the > charge is > pushed towards its center as the piston achieves top dead center. The is > perhaps the strongest deterrent to detonation designed into the system, as > it tends to either eliminate end gas or keep charge turbulence high. This > squish volume is a rim about .3 to .4" wide around the chamber, and approx > .04 thick-a big washer-shaped volume between the piston and the head. > Consider "squish volume" sacred and do not tamper. It is > possible to err so > badly in removing the squish that a resulting 7-1 compression > ratio may ping > worse than a 9-1 with proper squish. Clearly then, choices for reducing > compression ratio are limited to opening up selected parts of the > head side > of the chamber, installing a new piston with a dish in the center, or > remachining the original piston to create a dish. It is perhaps a little > risky to undertake remachining a combustion chamber, because the thickness > of the material is usually unknown. Furthermore, chamber shapes > are closely > controlled features of most modern engines. If the chamber must be recut, > ultrasonic inspection can determine the thickness of the material. > Commercial inspection service companies frequently offer this service. An > entirely new piston, with the required dish that maintains the squish > volume, is a proper approach. Machine a dish into the original piston is > sound, provided the top thickness is adequate. A reasonable rule would > require the top thickness to be at least 6% of the bore. Approaches to > lowering the compression ratio that do NOT work are thicker head > gaskets and > shorter connecting rods." > The reason these companies offer it because they don't know better I > presume. > Why do you think APR has a Stage IV for the 1.8 with new pistons? They > actually have engineers that design this product extensively. You don't > increase gasket thickness to get a lower CR. Shame on those > other companies > for making others think so :) > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Alexander van Gerbig [mailto:Audi_80@email.msn.com] > > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 7:23 PM > > To: Rob Andrews > > Subject: Re: Machining Piston to lower compression? > > > > > > Than how come Callaway, ND, 8vTurbo, and so on offer this to lower > > compression and run higher boost? I am not being critical, I'm really > > curious. I will turbocharging my N/A engine shortly, 6psi, and > I will not > > be lowering my compression via a double gasket. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 > > > > The Audi 80 Pages----------------- > > http://surf.to/the80pages.com > > > > North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 > > > > > > From lindgre at online.no Sun Mar 4 16:12:46 2001 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Unsubbing for a few weeks Message-ID: <3AA25B6E.56497992@online.no> Hi all. I just wanted to notice you I'll be unsubbing for a few weeks. NATO will be holding a huge maneuver in Northern Norway, it's a yearly winter training for many NATO forces. In addition, Norwegian army drafts are to return for rehearsal training at least once every ten years, and now it is my turn :-( The Norwegian Army wants me to come and drive one of their ambulances (probably a Mercedes G-wagen) in this 11.000 troop NATO maneuver called Joint Winter 2001. So I'll be flying up north on Wednesday and will be gone for almost three weeks. Until then, drive safely! PerL From pjberr at home.com Sun Mar 4 10:56:26 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000501c0a4c3$abcde7b0$1100a8c0@JATER> Not knowing what engines he was generalizing about, but it should be noted that the aidi turbo pistons are a deep dish type already. The addition of a thicker head gasket is unlikely to cause the problems that he is talking about here because the typical north american piston of that vintage was either marginally dished or was in fact crowned to raise compression. just my $0.02 Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of J?rgen Karlsson > >Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 9:41 AM > >To: Rob Andrews; Alexander van Gerbig; Audi List > >Cc: Audi List > >Subject: RE: Machining Piston to lower compression? > > > > > > > > > >Corky Bell are of course right, but his 'will NOT work' > >yelling is not a > >good idea. There are far to many applications where thicker > >gaskets work > >well, this is not only with low power engines but it is > >successfully used on > >engines that produce close to 200hp/litre. > > > >With the boost levels we are talking about when > >turbocharging a N/A five > >cylinder I don't think that there will be any need for a compression > >reduction anyway. But if it detonates, a thicker gasket is > >worth a try. > > > >I haven't seen any good results with double gaskets, they > >tend to fail. > > > >J?rgen > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >> I quote from Maximum Boost... > >> " A variety of methods exist to change a compression ratio. > >> Almost all are > >> UNacceptable. The crux of the matter is upsetting the > >"squish volume" > >> around the rim of the chamber. A chamber is designed so that the > >> charge is > >> pushed towards its center as the piston achieves top dead > >center. The is > >> perhaps the strongest deterrent to detonation designed > >into the system, as > >> it tends to either eliminate end gas or keep charge > >turbulence high. This > >> squish volume is a rim about .3 to .4" wide around the > >chamber, and approx > >> .04 thick-a big washer-shaped volume between the piston > >and the head. > >> Consider "squish volume" sacred and do not tamper. It is > >> possible to err so > >> badly in removing the squish that a resulting 7-1 compression > >> ratio may ping > >> worse than a 9-1 with proper squish. Clearly then, > >choices for reducing > >> compression ratio are limited to opening up selected parts of the > >> head side > >> of the chamber, installing a new piston with a dish in the > >center, or > >> remachining the original piston to create a dish. It is > >perhaps a little > >> risky to undertake remachining a combustion chamber, > >because the thickness > >> of the material is usually unknown. Furthermore, chamber shapes > >> are closely > >> controlled features of most modern engines. If the > >chamber must be recut, > >> ultrasonic inspection can determine the thickness of the material. > >> Commercial inspection service companies frequently offer > >this service. An > >> entirely new piston, with the required dish that maintains > >the squish > >> volume, is a proper approach. Machine a dish into the > >original piston is > >> sound, provided the top thickness is adequate. A > >reasonable rule would > >> require the top thickness to be at least 6% of the bore. > >Approaches to > >> lowering the compression ratio that do NOT work are thicker head > >> gaskets and > >> shorter connecting rods." > >> The reason these companies offer it because they don't > >know better I > >> presume. > >> Why do you think APR has a Stage IV for the 1.8 with new > >pistons? They > >> actually have engineers that design this product > >extensively. You don't > >> increase gasket thickness to get a lower CR. Shame on those > >> other companies > >> for making others think so :) > >> > >> > >> > -----Original Message----- > >> > From: Alexander van Gerbig [mailto:Audi_80@email.msn.com] > >> > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 7:23 PM > >> > To: Rob Andrews > >> > Subject: Re: Machining Piston to lower compression? > >> > > >> > > >> > Than how come Callaway, ND, 8vTurbo, and so on offer > >this to lower > >> > compression and run higher boost? I am not being > >critical, I'm really > >> > curious. I will turbocharging my N/A engine shortly, 6psi, and > >> I will not > >> > be lowering my compression via a double gasket. > >> > > >> > Cheers, > >> > > >> > Alexander van Gerbig -- '88 80 > >> > > >> > The Audi 80 Pages----------------- > >> > http://surf.to/the80pages.com > >> > > >> > North Ferrisburg, VT 05473 > >> > > >> > > >> > > > From munrof at sympatico.ca Sun Mar 4 11:17:44 2001 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: A6/S6 - upgrading to e-code headlamps References: Message-ID: <014a01c0a4c6$a533f720$0200a8c0@fredmunr> Lee M. Levitt wrote: > I just ordered a set of e-code headlamps from pgperformance for my S6. I > have a quick question for anyone that's already done this upgrade. > > Is this a plug and play upgrade or will I have to fabricate a wiring > harness? (I'll be running stock wattage bulbs, at least for now. I > understand that higher wattage bulbs requires relays inside the lamp assy.) > The installation is plug and play, Lee, if you use stock wattage bulbs. Higher wattage bulbs do require relays due to the limited current-carrying capacity of the OEM switches and wiring. > Any BTDTs with regard to removal and replacement of the headlamp buckets? Check out www.urs4.com which has a complete write-up under the Technical section. > > And finally, pgperformance offered me a set of optional clear side markers. > I assume that this is strictly a cosmetic upgrade, correct? The clear side markers are a cosmetic option which came standard on the European cars. I like the way they look on my S4, but YMMV. Fred Munro '94 S4 125k km From tnas at euronet.nl Sun Mar 4 17:42:41 2001 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Attention Doyt Echelberger Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010304174005.00b16d90@mail.euronet.nl> Sorry all- Doyt, tried to reply but got a second bounce just now. Maybe your provider doesn't like Euronet for some reason? : host darla.nwonline.net[208.231.144.26] refused to talk to me: 501 Blocked by Filter 0 Tom From v8q at bellsouth.net Sun Mar 4 12:24:33 2001 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: [V8] Help: Momo steering wheel BTDT install References: Message-ID: <3AA27A51.FE7132D3@bellsouth.net> Actually, I think that was Jeff Goggins who put one on his airbag model 200. He fabricated a ring with the earlier model 5K/100/200 hub. Lidasan@aol.com wrote: > > Finally decided to change the steering wheel on my > '90 V8Q. Any suggestions from listers about the install process is greatly appreciated. > > I am planning to put either a Momo Daytona 4 or a Momo Fighter Zebrano and from calls I've made so far to online sources, there is no Momo hub available for the V8. I remember one lister (Graydon?) installing one using the hub for the 200(?). > > Please skip the airbag removal admonitions. > > Thanks! > > Thor > _______________________________________________ > Audifans v8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:v8@audifans.com > Manage your list options: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Mar 4 17:37:10 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Anyone else notice this? Message-ID: > Yesterday, BBC2, "I love 1986"- item about the very temporary > success of the band 'Five Star', showing their large house and their > cars (two Countaches, a Ferrari 328, a Benz SL and a bright red SEC > with horrible wheels and chrome wheelarch trim) One of the guys from > the band: "Yeah, I had this flash Merc. But what I really wanted in > '86 was an Audi Quattro". > With chrome wheelarch trim, presumably? I'd rather have had Patsy Kensit. Mike Oldfield's first car after the success of Tubular Bells was a quattro. It's still on the road, owned by a UK club member. There's also a car once owned by someone from Pink Floyd, but it was horribly "restored" and sold a couple of years ago. The new owner brought it to Roger and myself for appraisal and we gave him a list - we haven't seen him since. -- Phil From wbr90 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 09:53:36 2001 From: wbr90 at yahoo.com (Keith Lawyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Radiator Advice In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20010304175336.49007.qmail@web10403.mail.yahoo.com> Yahoo was uncooperative last nite when I tried to post this so I apologize if it goes thru twice: I got an all metal CSF from Olympic Distributing for $135, $142 delivered - they're in the parts suppliers list at audifans.com. The quality seems fine to me and it dropped right into my '89 200, no fitment issues. I agree that the OEM's can last a long time but the cheapest OEM's I personally was able to find (I called a lot of places) were $230-260. I can't see paying this when you can get an all-metal for $100 LESS. Searching the archives I got the general impression people were pleased w/CSF's quality, it was also suggested they make Modine's rads but I can't confirm that. I do seem to recall the box said made in Singapore, could be wrong. Also, again from the archives, CSF apparently stands for Cooling Systems and Flexibles. That's all I know, FWIW. Keith L. --- jzwahlen@cerrejon.com wrote: > Based on my experience with our old '85 Audi 5000S, > and some > additional anecdotal evidence, the plastic on the > radiators > start to become brittle at 80K miles. This caused > my wife > to blow the head gasket on this car when his was > driving in > rush hour traffic in Houston and couldn't get off > the > expressway. She finally was able to limp the car > off the > exit ramp but by that time it had lost compression > and then > wouldn't restart. > > You can avoid damage to the head gaskets if you stop > your > car immediately after the radiator dumps, but > sometimes this > isn't safe to do. > > My advice is to replace the radiator soon after 80k > miles, > it's a lot cheaper and easier that pulling the head. > > I don't think this would be too difficult a job for > most > do-it-yourselvers. > > jazman > > '99 VW Polo Classic 1.6L > '94 Porsche 968 > '93 Audi 100CS (gone but in good hands) > '87 Audi 5000CS TQ (best car I ever owned, also > gone) > '85 Audi 5000S (I think this car must have died) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 12:55:20 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Tresser sighting Message-ID: <20010304.125743.-3990311.3.l.leung@juno.com> Seen, heading southbound, Rt. 304 New City, NY. Silver 5K Tresser. I was heading north in a Pearl 200Q with UrQ rims. Lister? LL - NY From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 12:57:40 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010304.125743.-3990311.4.l.leung@juno.com> I am assuming from your posts (thanks BTW) and the fact that there is no listing anywhere in the local paper) that FoxSports is no longer rebroadcasting Speedvision broadcasts of F1. Am I right in this? LL - NY On Sat, 03 Mar 2001 10:49:06 -0500 Frederick Smith writes: >http://www.speedvision.com/custom/schedules.asp?d=3%2F3%2F2001&days=1&zo ne=eastern From mh1492 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 10:47:21 2001 From: mh1492 at yahoo.com (mike harris) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Who's CGT Message-ID: <20010304184721.55546.qmail@web12709.mail.yahoo.com> I just got home from Buffalo cutting through Canada and east of London near the 401 & 403 junction a nice looking dark blue Coupe GT pulled by with a yellow S4 from NY following so I joined in. The CGT had been lowered, a mesh grill, no rings or side panel trim, flared fenders and custom front and rear spoilers, 16 or 17 in. rims and great sounding exhaust. The only thing that identified it as a CGT was the coupe graphics across the rear. He suckered us to about 80 mph then took off and smoked us. Even the S4 couldn't catch him. I owned a '84 CGT so I'm impressed, any Canadians no what this was. Mike H '98 A4 1.8T '87 5KCSTQ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From STEADIRIC at aol.com Sun Mar 4 13:50:53 2001 From: STEADIRIC at aol.com (STEADIRIC@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: In a message dated Sun, 4 Mar 2001 1:08:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lawrence C Leung writes: >I am assuming from your posts (thanks BTW) and >the fact that there is no listing anywhere in the >local paper) that FoxSports is no longer >rebroadcasting Speedvision broadcasts of F1. Am >I right in this? Yup Speedvision only. They have the exclusive contract for F1 in the US. Which sucks if you ask me since they have Sam Posey commenting. He is So clueless when it come to F1 racing. Last night they replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal "Radio Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." To top it off my Girlfriend hates the host's too, and wants Fox Sports back. Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From audi at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 14:31:51 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Unsubbing for a few weeks References: <3AA25B6E.56497992@online.no> Message-ID: <3AA2C257.46AE0902@mediaone.net> > I just wanted to notice you I'll be unsubbing for a few weeks. NATO will > be holding a huge maneuver in Northern Norway, it's a yearly winter > training for many NATO forces. In addition, Norwegian army drafts are to > return for rehearsal training at least once every ten years, and now it > is my turn :-( > The Norwegian Army wants me to come and drive one of their ambulances > (probably a Mercedes G-wagen) in this 11.000 troop NATO maneuver called > Joint Winter 2001. it's all just a cover for launching the Greater Norwegian Empire, eh? -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From smitty at pcrealm.net Sun Mar 4 14:32:46 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) References: Message-ID: <3AA2985E.5920242E@pcrealm.net> I keep saying to myself, when Posey interupts to say something irrelevant, "he will probably go back to sleep soon". The unfortunate part is that he has the ability to put ME asleep. Interesting that Schuey decided to replace his Bell helmet sponsors lid with a german brand....at the cost of $15,000 a day. Of course the "commentators?????" couldn't pronounce the name!!! Read about it in next weeks Autosport. Time for the ALMS race..hurray for Speedvision. From pjberr at home.com Sun Mar 4 14:43:10 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Who's CGT In-Reply-To: <20010304184721.55546.qmail@web12709.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000101c0a4e3$581c3930$1100a8c0@JATER> Sorry we do that alot to 'muhricans up here ;) Don't know who, but unlikely that a coupe gt could do that to you, you were probably taken by a stealth UrQuattro. Dark Blue Stealthy - if you're on the list and relatively local to Mississauga you're welcome to join us at our Canadian UrQ / West Toronto Audifans pub night. E-mail me privately off list. Jouko, Mike, Martin - any of you know this guy? Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of mike harris > >Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 1:47 PM > >To: quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: Who's CGT > > > > > >I just got home from Buffalo cutting through Canada > >and east of London near the 401 & 403 junction a nice > >looking dark blue Coupe GT pulled by with a yellow S4 > >from NY following so I joined in. The CGT had been > >lowered, a mesh grill, no rings or side panel trim, > >flared fenders and custom front and rear spoilers, 16 > >or 17 in. rims and great sounding exhaust. The only > >thing that identified it as a CGT was the coupe > >graphics across the rear. He suckered us to about 80 > >mph then took off and smoked us. Even the S4 couldn't > >catch him. I owned a '84 CGT so I'm impressed, any > >Canadians no what this was. > > > >Mike H > >'98 A4 1.8T > >'87 5KCSTQ > > > >__________________________________________________ > >Do You Yahoo!? > >Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. > >http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk Sun Mar 4 20:03:21 2001 From: rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk (rob hod) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1154 - 15 msgs References: <200103041603.LAA09630@audifans.com> Message-ID: <001c01c0a4e6$2e579920$a9a2893e@robin> Yeah I was watching too, so you can get the Beeb in holland? rob ----- Original Message ----- Message: 8 Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2001 11:44:06 +0100 To: quattro@audifans.com From: Tom Nas Subject: Anyone else notice this? Yesterday, BBC2, "I love 1986"- item about the very temporary success of the band 'Five Star', showing their large house and their cars (two Countaches, a Ferrari 328, a Benz SL and a bright red SEC with horrible wheels and chrome wheelarch trim) One of the guys from the band: "Yeah, I had this flash Merc. But what I really wanted in '86 was an Audi Quattro". With chrome wheelarch trim, presumably? Tom From pjberr at home.com Sun Mar 4 14:57:03 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) In-Reply-To: <3AA2985E.5920242E@pcrealm.net> Message-ID: <000201c0a4e5$487d9670$1100a8c0@JATER> (MAC) - Came back from an incredible day of racing the 200TQ around on the ice with a bunch of audi-philes! What a blast - haven't been able to wipe the grin off my face yet! :)!!! <-- BSEG!! (Yes it was my first time on the ice) How about the generally crappy coverage and lack of good camera angles on anything! For instance; what exactly happened to Hakkinen, all we saw was a backwards slide into the gravel? Really impressed with the way the Ambulance pulled over to let the racers by... NOT! And who is that Vacuous Bimbo in the pits doing interviews?? Too short - lousy commentators - generally lackluster coverage - why show lap after lap of the indominable leader when there is at least some action happening back in the pack - lets see some more of the closer battles and leave the solo rider alone - AND HOW THE HECK DO YOU COMPLETELY MISS WHAT HAPPENED TO HAKKINEN!!! Just my griping, Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of Frederick Smith > >Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 2:33 PM > >To: STEADIRIC@aol.com > >Cc: l.leung@juno.com; blur@sympatico.ca; quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: Re: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) > > > > > >I keep saying to myself, when Posey interupts to say > >something irrelevant, > >"he will probably go back to sleep soon". The unfortunate > >part is that he > >has the ability to put ME asleep. Interesting that Schuey > >decided to replace > >his Bell helmet sponsors lid with a german brand....at the > >cost of $15,000 > >a day. Of course the "commentators?????" couldn't pronounce > >the name!!! > > > >Read about it in next weeks Autosport. > > > >Time for the ALMS race..hurray for Speedvision. From mh1492 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 12:19:58 2001 From: mh1492 at yahoo.com (mike harris) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Who's CGT In-Reply-To: <000101c0a4e3$581c3930$1100a8c0@JATER> Message-ID: <20010304201958.32437.qmail@web12702.mail.yahoo.com> Thanks but it wasn't a Ur-q it was a CGT and driver looked older maybe in his 50's. My wife said he had a personalized plate either PM CGT or DM CGT. I'm interested because I've never seen a CGT outrun anything like an S4, so I assume its not stock and curious. Mike H '98 A4 1.8T '87 5KCSTQ --- Peter Berrevoets wrote: > Sorry we do that alot to 'muhricans up here ;) > > Don't know who, but unlikely that a coupe gt could > do that to you, you were > probably taken by a stealth UrQuattro. > > Dark Blue Stealthy - if you're on the list and > relatively local to > Mississauga you're welcome to join us at our > Canadian UrQ / West Toronto > Audifans pub night. E-mail me privately off list. > > Jouko, Mike, Martin - any of you know this guy? > > Peter Berrevoets > 1990 200TQ > Toronto, Canada > http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From adhand at san.rr.com Sun Mar 4 12:36:48 2001 From: adhand at san.rr.com (Anand Dhanda) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? Message-ID: I have been exploring other options, and came across an idea... i know that 90 Coupe quattros have a 20v NA motor in them, is it possible to just get a 200q20v's exhaust manifold and turbo and turn it into a 3B engine? also, is it possible to get a 10v, and put a 20v head on it??? thanks! - Anand Dhanda President, Southern California Audi Club Anand@5vTurbo.net www.SoCalAudiClub.com '00 A4 1.8TQMSx Silver/Onyx Modded '91 200tqm In Search Of From smitty at pcrealm.net Sun Mar 4 16:07:24 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) References: <000201c0a4e5$487d9670$1100a8c0@JATER> Message-ID: <3AA2AE8C.9ACC6A14@pcrealm.net> From marcswanson at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 16:15:41 2001 From: marcswanson at mediaone.net (Marc Swanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > I have been exploring other options, and came across an idea... i > know that > 90 Coupe quattros have a 20v NA motor in them, is it possible to > just get a > 200q20v's exhaust manifold and turbo and turn it into a 3B > engine? also, is > it possible to get a 10v, and put a 20v head on it??? Well, you can use a 20v NA head in place of the 3B head but the blocks are way different. One option would be to take an MC block which has the piston oil squirters and associated turbo related parts like the flange for the oil return line and coolant for the turbo built into it already. There are some issues with coolant passages that some have expressed but I'm pretty sure I've heard that somebody has actually done this (put a 20v head on an MC 10vt block).. anyone?? Later -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Mar 4 16:18:33 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? Message-ID: <80.7a49fcc.27d40b29@aol.com> In a message dated 3/4/2001 12:42:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, adhand@san.rr.com writes: > > I have been exploring other options, and came across an idea... i know that > 90 Coupe quattros have a 20v NA motor in them, is it possible to just get a > 200q20v's exhaust manifold and turbo and turn it into a 3B engine? also, is > it possible to get a 10v, and put a 20v head on it??? > > It is not that simple, there is not just one 20v motor, all 20v's are not the same. The 7A, which comes in the 90q is different than the 3B, it has lower compression via different pistons for one. Also, the 7A and 3B come with their own engine control systems. The 7A fuel and ignition systems are not designed with forced induction in mind, and fueling would be of huge concern. Likewise, a 20v head will fit on a 10v motor, but adapting the CIS fuel system to a head designed for EFI is also a very big deal. These swaps you are considering are very involved and would require much part-matching and fabrication to make possible and work reliably. There are no easy swaps when it comes to engines, each engine is designed with its own management system, and is designed to fit in specific models. The only thing you can be sure of is that all the 5 cylinder motors mount basically the same, and have the same dimensions. Beyond that, it is customization that will make things fit and work. HTH, Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010304/d44d56a2/attachment.htm From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Sun Mar 4 22:22:13 2001 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Unsubbing for a few weeks In-Reply-To: <3AA25B6E.56497992@online.no> References: <3AA25B6E.56497992@online.no> Message-ID: On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:12:46 +0100, you wrote: >Hi all. > >I just wanted to notice you I'll be unsubbing for a few weeks. NATO will >be holding a huge maneuver in Northern Norway, it's a yearly winter >training for many NATO forces. In addition, Norwegian army drafts are to >return for rehearsal training at least once every ten years, and now it >is my turn :-( >The Norwegian Army wants me to come and drive one of their ambulances >(probably a Mercedes G-wagen) in this 11.000 troop NATO maneuver called >Joint Winter 2001. So I'll be flying up north on Wednesday and will be >gone for almost three weeks. Me too. I'm leaving the south tuesday evening, and will stay up north until April 6th. I'm only attending Joint Winter 2001 from March 10th to the 20th. I'm placed in the armored cavalry in the Norwegian Army, where I drive - a "Leopard" tank. Old and outdated, but the sound of the 37.4 liter V10 diesel is not bad.. :-) -- Regards, ES From wallace at stanfordalumni.org Sun Mar 4 13:37:09 2001 From: wallace at stanfordalumni.org (Wallace White) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Darn rack bolt Message-ID: <3AA2B585.D5F350DC@stanfordalumni.org> Fellow listers - I'm trying to install a new pump-to-rack hose today, but I can't get the banjo bolt to screw into the rack. Not while the hose is on it, anyway. I've done this twice before, and it's always a pain but I get it eventually. This time I've been trying for about an hour, just to screw in that bolt. No luck. Any tips? I've taped the crush washer to the hose, which keeps me from dropping the crsuh washer over and over (figured that trick out the first time I had to do this). I've got the Pentosin reservoir out of the way, mostly. I can get my left hand in there to turn the bolt with thumb and forefinger or just two fingers, but either way I can't really see to tell if the bolt is going in at the right angle. Oh, and I have not connected the hose at the pump; I suppose I could try that for a change of pace. Thanks, - Wallace '87 5kcstq 170k From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 13:10:08 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Anyone else notice this? Message-ID: <20010304.163449.-4003143.0.l.leung@juno.com> The US VW Rabbit was the A1 series Golf everywhere else. On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 08:48:33 -0500 "Doyt W. Echelberger" writes: > >life. And I drove a used Rabbit (Polo?) at the time. And he drove a > From BeattyR at ummhc.org Sun Mar 4 16:51:25 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Darn rack bolt Message-ID: Wallace, This is a major PITA as im sure you already know. 2 main ways to do this.... 1. leave rack in its position, try super glueing the washer to the fitting ( you wont need the tape anymore) and from there its just REALLY hard to get that bolt started. 2. Remove the 2 bolts holding the rack in place at either end and then pull the rack forward to get more access to the fitting's location. I think you will also have to disconnect the tie rods from the rack as well, dont know if they will prevent the rack from moving forward. Good luck either way Rob -----Original Message----- From: Wallace White [mailto:wallace@stanfordalumni.org] Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 4:37 PM To: Quattro List Subject: Darn rack bolt Fellow listers - I'm trying to install a new pump-to-rack hose today, but I can't get the banjo bolt to screw into the rack. Not while the hose is on it, anyway. I've done this twice before, and it's always a pain but I get it eventually. This time I've been trying for about an hour, just to screw in that bolt. No luck. Any tips? I've taped the crush washer to the hose, which keeps me from dropping the crsuh washer over and over (figured that trick out the first time I had to do this). I've got the Pentosin reservoir out of the way, mostly. I can get my left hand in there to turn the bolt with thumb and forefinger or just two fingers, but either way I can't really see to tell if the bolt is going in at the right angle. Oh, and I have not connected the hose at the pump; I suppose I could try that for a change of pace. Thanks, - Wallace '87 5kcstq 170k From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Mar 4 17:40:33 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Darn rack bolt In-Reply-To: <3AA2B585.D5F350DC@stanfordalumni.org> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010304173844.00be89f0@traverse.com> I got mine started by using long extensions and a flexhead socket to reach in via the passenger side wheelwell and having a friend guide the bolt into place while turned it. Did the torque wrench tightening with this setup too. At 01:37 PM 03/04/2001 -0800, Wallace White wrote: >Fellow listers - > >I'm trying to install a new pump-to-rack hose today, but I can't get the >banjo bolt to screw into the rack. Not while the hose is on it, anyway. > >I've done this twice before, and it's always a pain but I get it >eventually. This time I've been trying for about an hour, just to screw >in that bolt. No luck. > >Any tips? > >I've taped the crush washer to the hose, which keeps me from dropping >the crsuh washer over and over (figured that trick out the first time I >had to do this). I've got the Pentosin reservoir out of the way, mostly. >I can get my left hand in there to turn the bolt with thumb and >forefinger or just two fingers, but either way I can't really see to >tell if the bolt is going in at the right angle. Oh, and I have not >connected the hose at the pump; I suppose I could try that for a change >of pace. > >Thanks, > >- Wallace > '87 5kcstq 170k > From lee at wheelman.com Sun Mar 4 17:39:02 2001 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee M. Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: panavise cellular mount bracket for A6 In-Reply-To: <200103010221.VAA05600@audifans.com> Message-ID: Has anybody used a panavise cellular mounting bracket in a '95-'98 A6? This bracket mounts a cell phone, and in the A6, is *supposed* to mount onto the radio. I bought one from Panavise for my wife's A6 and it didn't work for me...either they wanted me to remove the climate control system and mount it to that, or it was just the wrong bracket... Anyone know the correct Panavise part number to mount to the Bose radio in this vehicle? I'd appreciate it! I've been to the Panavise site and they haven't changed it since I bought my last bracket (last summer) Thanks, Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Mar 4 22:42:05 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) Message-ID: > For instance; what exactly happened to Hakkinen, all we saw was a > backwards slide into the gravel? Front suspension failed. > Really impressed with the way the Ambulance pulled over to let the > racers by... NOT! It had a dead marshall in it at the time. I saw a report from someone who witnessed the incident - apparently it was pretty obviously a quick death and the spectators around the area were wondering why the race wasn't abandoned. Coultard said something similar after the race. -- Phil From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Mon Mar 5 11:49:37 2001 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) In-Reply-To: <200103042126.QAA13587@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000001c0a4fd$999b0b10$3ac4a7cb@dellboy> well, you could subscribe to the digital feed, which means access to literally dozens cameras, which you can choose, including most of the cars. bernie the bean has locked up all the good stuff for digital, and left the rest for the terrestrial coverage. it's the same for everyone who does not subscribe (or can't get) the digital feed. definitely state of the art, and a huge undertaking as the "tv station" moves around to all the venues - it is completely independent of the location (including power, satellite etc). at least we get the itv coverage with martin brundle. however, they didn't do particularly well on sunday... missing from the aussie coverage: replay of the start - the fretzen, panis couthard sandwich barichello's passing of ralf, although they got his barging of fretzen villeneuve's red mist moment from early enough (what is it with that boy at the moment?) hakkinens off from early enough highlight was the in-cockpit shots of montoya, trying to keep the car on the island - he was all over the place - he has a lot to learn of f1. dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- From: Frederick Smith Reply-To: smitty@pcrealm.net To: Peter Berrevoets Cc: "1 Quattro List (E-mail)" Subject: Re: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) >From what I understand, they were watching it on TV, just as you and I. The broadcast was by Ausrtralian Television, probably because of right's demanded/sold by that egocentric Ecclestone boob. The fact that it wasn't 'till the podium ceremony that we learned of the death of the marshal. If they were in a proper viewing/broadcasting position there would have been better commentary. The camera that recorded the Villenueve crash was fixed to view the straightaway and couldn't pan to a better angle as the car approached. Primitive technology at best. From smitty at pcrealm.net Sun Mar 4 17:52:26 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Audi continues 1-2 finish....... Message-ID: <3AA2C72A.1106CDF8@pcrealm.net> in Texas. The Panoz ran very strong...new motor etc. finished 3rd. Champion Racing R8 finished 4th. Not so bad, three aout of 4 places. From jzwahlen at cerrejon.com Sun Mar 4 17:50:54 2001 From: jzwahlen at cerrejon.com (jzwahlen@cerrejon.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Phil: Anyone else notice this? Message-ID: Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells became a smash in 1973 with the release of The Exorcist. I didn't think quattros were available until 1980? jazman From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Sun Mar 4 23:09:40 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Who's CGT Message-ID: > I just got home from Buffalo cutting through Canada > and east of London near the 401 & 403 junction a nice > looking dark blue Coupe GT pulled by with a yellow S4 > from NY following so I joined in. The CGT had been > lowered, a mesh grill, no rings or side panel trim, > flared fenders and custom front and rear spoilers, 16 > or 17 in. rims and great sounding exhaust. The only > thing that identified it as a CGT was the coupe > graphics across the rear. He suckered us to about 80 > mph then took off and smoked us. Sounds like an ur-quattro in standard European trim. F600 will give an S4 a run for its money at some rpm ranges and in some gears - we've tried it with John Robinson's S4. Of course, the S4 will always win on long runs - hideous low-end torque. See http://www.isham-research/freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything like that? -- Phil From t44tq at mindspring.com Sun Mar 4 18:23:31 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Repair receipts- aka '86 5ktq for sale Message-ID: <000501c0a502$20453ce0$d97afea9@noone> Hi listers, In preparing my receipts for the sale of my 5ktq, I decided I'd quickly add them up, parts and labor, to see how much money has gone into this car. $7995!!!!! In about 13 months! Ouch. Wow. Maybe a little bit less than that- I may have inadvertently used Canadian Dollars for maybe $700 of that total, so it may be closer to $7600. I must be one crazy Audiphile to maintain a car to this expense. Well, my '86 5ktq is for sale, over $7500 in receipts, runs great. Zermatt silver, black sport interior, 193k miles, two sets of wheels- summer and winter (both sets OEM alloys). Bilstein sport suspension. Email me for details. $2800 or best offer, located in Philadelphia, PA. Why am I selling? Because my '91 200q is my primary car and I really don't need two (actually three) cars. I will (been saying that too long) have some photos up on the web shortly, they're sitting next to my computer, waiting for me to fire up the scanner. I'll put it up on the Audifans marketplace shortly. Taka From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Mon Mar 5 00:34:20 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > > Really impressed with the way the Ambulance pulled over to let the > > racers by... NOT! > > It had a dead marshall in it at the time. I saw a report from someone > who witnessed the incident - apparently it was pretty obviously a > quick death and the spectators around the area were wondering why the > race wasn't abandoned. Coultard said something similar after the > race. FIA's rules are pretty clear about this, a race should be abandoned if someone dies as a result of the race activity. But I guess that there is to much money involved. J?rgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From audi at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 18:44:19 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? References: Message-ID: <3AA2FD83.FB33B589@mediaone.net> > > I have been exploring other options, and came across an idea... i > > know that > > 90 Coupe quattros have a 20v NA motor in them, is it possible to > > just get a > > 200q20v's exhaust manifold and turbo and turn it into a 3B > > engine? also, is > > it possible to get a 10v, and put a 20v head on it??? > > Well, you can use a 20v NA head in place of the 3B head but the blocks are > way different. One option would be to take an MC block which has the piston > oil squirters considering that the 2.3 130 hp has them, I bet the 20v n/a block has them too > and associated turbo related parts like the flange for the oil > return line and coolant for the turbo built into it already. but not those... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From sitzman at core.binghamton.edu Sun Mar 4 18:58:42 2001 From: sitzman at core.binghamton.edu (Andrew Sitzer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Repair receipts- aka '86 5ktq for sale In-Reply-To: <000501c0a502$20453ce0$d97afea9@noone> Message-ID: Hey there.. I wish I could afford it.. but being a 5k owner myself, have no money for another car :) Anyways, I was just wondering, in your calculations did you include your own time or 'real money spent at other mechanics'. I do mostly all my own work -- but $7000 seems very high to me for one years worth of parts/labor.. I even had my engine done a couple years ago and that was only $1100 I'd be curious to know what work you had done! -Andrew S. ps. I have all my my receipts dating back from 1989 when we got the car.. I am tempted to make an excel spreadhsheet/linegraph to figure out how much money I have spent as well as the general trend over time. (It seems like in the past year I put in less then $300 total repairs -- yet in prior years I must have spent nearly $2500-$3000..) On Sun, 4 Mar 2001, TM wrote: > Hi listers, > In preparing my receipts for the sale of my 5ktq, > I decided I'd quickly add them up, parts and labor, > to see how much money has gone into this car. > > $7995!!!!! > > In about 13 months! Ouch. Wow. Maybe a little bit less > than that- I may have inadvertently used Canadian > Dollars for maybe $700 of that total, so it may be closer > to $7600. > > I must be one crazy Audiphile to maintain a car to this > expense. > > Well, my '86 5ktq is for sale, over $7500 in receipts, > runs great. Zermatt silver, black sport interior, 193k > miles, two sets of wheels- summer and winter (both sets OEM > alloys). Bilstein sport suspension. Email me for details. > > $2800 or best offer, located in Philadelphia, PA. > > Why am I selling? Because my '91 200q is my primary car > and I really don't need two (actually three) cars. > > I will (been saying that too long) have some photos up on > the web shortly, they're sitting next to my computer, waiting > for me to fire up the scanner. > > I'll put it up on the Audifans marketplace shortly. > > Taka > From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Mon Mar 5 01:30:10 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: <3AA2FD83.FB33B589@mediaone.net> Message-ID: > considering that the 2.3 130 hp has them, I bet the 20v n/a block has > them too That was interesting, what's the engine code of the 130hp engine. My 80q-83 is a 130hp engine, I haven't had the sump of it yet. But it will be turboed next month... Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From wallace at stanfordalumni.org Sun Mar 4 16:33:39 2001 From: wallace at stanfordalumni.org (Wallace White) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist Message-ID: <3AA2DEE3.C5F8DBD5@stanfordalumni.org> Thanks for the replies about screwing in the bolt for the pump-to-rack hose. A little while later I finally got it. Once again, there was no secret to getting it. Just took many, many tries. Once I got things back together, I started it up for a test drive. Brake light comes on, which happened the last time I replaced the hose. No brake assist, too--again like last time. It must take some time before the brake system is repressurized. But, I ran the engine for maybe fifteen minutes, and still no brake assist. It didn't take more than a minute or two last time. Any ideas? I hope the pump didn't get hosed (pardon the pun) when the hose burst. It did run for, oh, 15 seconds without fluid. Thanks, - Wallace '87 5kcstq 170k From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Mar 5 00:36:22 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Subject: Phil: Anyone else notice this? Message-ID: > Mike Oldfield's Tubular Bells became a smash in 1973 with > the release of The Exorcist. I didn't think quattros were > available until 1980? And? Smash hit in 1973 (and 1980-ish - QE2) and a cheque in 1981? My daughter's boyfriend is in the business. Royalty payments take _YEARS_. The car in question is a LHD, so I assume it's one of the very first to reach these shores. As to the Pink Floyd member - I don't think it was Nick. He's quite prominent over here in the vintage racing scene (and quite quick) so I think I'd have noticed if it was him. He's been at both Goodwood and Coy's in recent years, but never in an Audi. -- Phil From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Mar 5 00:39:47 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Typo Message-ID: >> See http://www.isham-research/freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything >> like that? > This doesn't seem to work. Is there a / that should be a . or something? See http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything like that? -- Phil From tech at flashmail.com Sun Mar 4 18:44:44 2001 From: tech at flashmail.com (Richard J. Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: References: <3AA2FD83.FB33B589@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.0.20010304184316.02781040@mail.flashmail.com> At 01:30 AM 3/5/01 +0100, you wrote: i believe he is referring to the NG 2.3 Liter i-5... available in later 5000's and the 80q/90's 1988-90? as i recall... the older i-5's 2.2/2.1 did not have oil squirters unless they were turbos.. HTH! -rich > > considering that the 2.3 130 hp has them, I bet the 20v n/a block has > > them too > >That was interesting, what's the engine code of the 130hp engine. My 80q-83 >is a 130hp engine, I haven't had the sump of it yet. But it will be turboed >next month... > >Jorgen Karlsson >Gothenburg, Sweden. From rahoitink at students.wisc.edu Sun Mar 4 18:56:16 2001 From: rahoitink at students.wisc.edu (Ryan Hoitink) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Typo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: try this http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/f600.jpg it works the F in f600 is lower-case -Ryan -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:00 AM To: quattro@audifans.com; kfahlgren@acs.wooster.edu Subject: Typo >> See http://www.isham-research/freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything >> like that? > This doesn't seem to work. Is there a / that should be a . or something? See http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything like that? -- Phil From caliban at sharon.net Sun Mar 4 17:01:23 2001 From: caliban at sharon.net (c a l i b a n) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: tahoe sighting! Message-ID: as usual, many sightings - lots of ur-s cars, and a cool 5k or 100/200 with those old old rims - fuchs? same ones steve b has on his urrkie. BUT the cool sighting was a white urquattro, big aftermarket rims, stickers on the sides. obviously an enthusiast, and i honked and pointed as i went by. perhaps he noticed my stock urq ronals being worn by my a4 avant. lister? -- rocky mullin - chaotic good http://caliban.sf.ca.us/ two strokes are faster than four! this message was composed using the vi editor. From audi at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 20:18:28 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? References: Message-ID: <3AA31394.F8B74AF4@mediaone.net> Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > > > considering that the 2.3 130 hp has them, I bet the 20v n/a block has > > them too > > That was interesting, what's the engine code of the 130hp engine. My 80q-83 > is a 130hp engine, I haven't had the sump of it yet. But it will be turboed > next month... NF or NG. but your euro engines always had more power back in those days. these days, too, I think... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From munrof at sympatico.ca Sun Mar 4 20:25:11 2001 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist References: <3AA2DEE3.C5F8DBD5@stanfordalumni.org> Message-ID: <003f01c0a513$1fe46f80$0200a8c0@fredmunr> If the pump goes empty, Wallace, you have to manually prime it before it will pump. Try removing the belt and the discharge hoses and manually turn the pulley until you see oil pulsing out of the discharge. Reconnect and try again. I always filled the pumps before installing them whenever I had them off for repairs. HTH Fred Munro '94 S4 125k km ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wallace White" To: "Quattro List" Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:33 PM Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist > Thanks for the replies about screwing in the bolt for the pump-to-rack > hose. A little while later I finally got it. Once again, there was no > secret to getting it. Just took many, many tries. > > Once I got things back together, I started it up for a test drive. Brake > light comes on, which happened the last time I replaced the hose. No > brake assist, too--again like last time. It must take some time before > the brake system is repressurized. > > But, I ran the engine for maybe fifteen minutes, and still no brake > assist. It didn't take more than a minute or two last time. > > Any ideas? I hope the pump didn't get hosed (pardon the pun) when the > hose burst. It did run for, oh, 15 seconds without fluid. > > Thanks, > > - Wallace > '87 5kcstq 170k From JordanVw at aol.com Sun Mar 4 20:17:27 2001 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: FS: grey leather type 44 interior Message-ID: for sale: grey leather power/heated interior for type44, 5000/100/200 doorpanels, seats, etc. perfect shape. also has the Bose speakers. front seats are non-sport seats. from '90 200. email for more info. chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010304/2cd6a1ea/attachment.htm From pjberr at home.com Sun Mar 4 20:24:51 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: <3AA31394.F8B74AF4@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <000801c0a513$13f1cfb0$1100a8c0@JATER> Biggest problem - valves The 20 valve NA has regular valves while the 20V (and 10V) have sodium filled valves to withstand the turbo temps. Reliability and maximum boost will be decreased. Sorry, Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of Huw Powell > >Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 11:18 PM > >To: Jorgen Karlsson > >Cc: quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: Re: 90cq to 20v turbo??? > > > > > > > > > >Jorgen Karlsson wrote: > >> > >> > considering that the 2.3 130 hp has them, I bet the 20v > >n/a block has > >> > them too > >> > >> That was interesting, what's the engine code of the 130hp > >engine. My 80q-83 > >> is a 130hp engine, I haven't had the sump of it yet. But > >it will be turboed > >> next month... > > > >NF or NG. but your euro engines always had more power back in those > >days. these days, too, I think... > > > >-- > >Huw Powell > > > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > > > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From JordanVw at aol.com Sun Mar 4 20:27:25 2001 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: FS: type44 full size spare trunk floor covers Message-ID: allows you to use a full size spare in your type44. $25 chris -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010304/7b1bd38b/attachment.htm From david at epicfoto.com Sun Mar 4 17:27:34 2001 From: david at epicfoto.com (David Thoresen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: Silver S4 Sighting/Southcenter Parkway/Friday Message-ID: Hey I saw a nice S4 on Southcenter parkway coming out of Winners Parking lot, driver on cell phone, I think you saw me... Gray Ur-Q with white treser front bumper... Lister? Ciao, David '85 Ur-Q '85 4k-Q From adhand at san.rr.com Sun Mar 4 17:41:55 2001 From: adhand at san.rr.com (Anand Dhanda) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: tahoe sighting! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: isn't this a 2Bennett car??? - Anand Dhanda President, Southern California Audi Club Anand@5vTurbo.net www.SoCalAudiClub.com '00 A4 1.8TQMSx Silver/Onyx Modded '91 200tqm In Search Of -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of c a l i b a n Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 5:01 PM To: urquattro@audifans.com; quattro Subject: tahoe sighting! as usual, many sightings - lots of ur-s cars, and a cool 5k or 100/200 with those old old rims - fuchs? same ones steve b has on his urrkie. BUT the cool sighting was a white urquattro, big aftermarket rims, stickers on the sides. obviously an enthusiast, and i honked and pointed as i went by. perhaps he noticed my stock urq ronals being worn by my a4 avant. lister? -- rocky mullin - chaotic good http://caliban.sf.ca.us/ two strokes are faster than four! this message was composed using the vi editor. From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 20:32:55 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:44 2003 Subject: A4Q 1.8T Tipo or Passat 4 motion V6, Opinions Message-ID: <20010304.204753.-4026225.13.l.leung@juno.com> I know this has been discussed on the list before, but the overall consensus is not clear to me. My parents are looking to buy a new car, either the A4Q Tipo 1.8T or a Passat GLS 4-motion with the 2.8 30V V-6 and Tipo. Both wagons. Neither are performance drivers. So, in terms of RELIABILITY, which would be preferable? I recall comments on the turbos failing on the 1.8T's. Is this only for modded engines? Is the 170 HP model, better or worse than the 150's? And is the suspension front A-arm bushing squeak issue been solved in the more recent cars? Any opinions appreciated, TIA! LL - NY From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 16:55:16 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Unsubbing for a few weeks Message-ID: <20010304.204753.-4026225.10.l.leung@juno.com> Maybe you both cold use Q's as service vehicles for when the tanks freeze up. LL - NY On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 22:22:13 +0100 Eyvind Spangen writes: >On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 16:12:46 +0100, you wrote: > >>Hi all. >> >>I just wanted to notice you I'll be unsubbing for a few weeks. NATO >will >>be holding a huge maneuver in Northern Norway, it's a yearly winter >>training for many NATO forces. In addition, Norwegian army drafts are >to >>return for rehearsal training at least once every ten years, and now >it >>is my turn :-( >>The Norwegian Army wants me to come and drive one of their ambulances >>(probably a Mercedes G-wagen) in this 11.000 troop NATO maneuver >called >>Joint Winter 2001. So I'll be flying up north on Wednesday and will >be >>gone for almost three weeks. > >Me too. I'm leaving the south tuesday evening, and will stay up north >until April 6th. I'm only attending Joint Winter 2001 from March 10th >to the 20th. I'm placed in the armored cavalry in the Norwegian Army, >where I drive - a "Leopard" tank. Old and outdated, but the sound of >the 37.4 liter V10 diesel is not bad.. :-) > >-- >Regards, >ES > > From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 16:45:12 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010304.204753.-4026225.8.l.leung@juno.com> Okay, since I'm obviously NOT going to see the race, what WERE the results (I'm assuming Mika was out of the points!). Indominable leader, let me guess, uh, uh, Shuey? (privately Yeah!). On Sun, 4 Mar 2001 14:57:03 -0500 "Peter Berrevoets" writes: >(MAC) - Came back from an incredible day of racing the 200TQ around on >the >ice with a bunch of audi-philes! What a blast - haven't been able to >wipe >the grin off my face yet! :)!!! <-- BSEG!! (Yes it was my first time >on the >ice) > > >How about the generally crappy coverage and lack of good camera angles >on >anything! > >For instance; what exactly happened to Hakkinen, all we saw was a >backwards >slide into the gravel? > >Really impressed with the way the Ambulance pulled over to let the >racers >by... NOT! > >And who is that Vacuous Bimbo in the pits doing interviews?? > >Too short - lousy commentators - generally lackluster coverage - why >show >lap after lap of the indominable leader when there is at least some >action >happening back in the pack - lets see some more of the closer battles >and >leave the solo rider alone - AND HOW THE HECK DO YOU COMPLETELY MISS >WHAT >HAPPENED TO HAKKINEN!!! > >Just my griping, > >Peter Berrevoets >1990 200TQ >Toronto, Canada >http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > > >> >-----Original Message----- >> >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com >> >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On >> >Behalf Of Frederick Smith >> >Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 2:33 PM >> >To: STEADIRIC@aol.com >> >Cc: l.leung@juno.com; blur@sympatico.ca; quattro@audifans.com >> >Subject: Re: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) >> > >> > >> >I keep saying to myself, when Posey interupts to say >> >something irrelevant, >> >"he will probably go back to sleep soon". The unfortunate >> >part is that he >> >has the ability to put ME asleep. Interesting that Schuey >> >decided to replace >> >his Bell helmet sponsors lid with a german brand....at the >> >cost of $15,000 >> >a day. Of course the "commentators?????" couldn't pronounce >> >the name!!! >> > >> >Read about it in next weeks Autosport. >> > >> >Time for the ALMS race..hurray for Speedvision. > From l.leung at juno.com Sun Mar 4 16:44:25 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010304.204753.-4026225.7.l.leung@juno.com> Heck, if it weren't for the sounds of the cars, I'd turn Posey off! LL - NY ---- F1 withdrawl symptoms starting... On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 13:50:53 EST STEADIRIC@aol.com writes: >In a message dated Sun, 4 Mar 2001 1:08:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, >Lawrence C Leung writes: > >>I am assuming from your posts (thanks BTW) and >>the fact that there is no listing anywhere in the >>local paper) that FoxSports is no longer >>rebroadcasting Speedvision broadcasts of F1. Am >>I right in this? > >Yup Speedvision only. They have the exclusive contract for F1 in the >US. Which sucks if you ask me since they have Sam Posey commenting. >He is So clueless when it come to F1 racing. Last night they >replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal "Radio >Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating >that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." > >To top it off my Girlfriend hates the host's too, and wants Fox Sports >back. > > >Eric Fletcher >'00 S4tt From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Mar 4 18:14:20 2001 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Famous Seattle area qhead! Message-ID: For those that get King5 in the Seattle area, I discovered that one of their anchors is a qhead. Well, at least she drives an Audi. Margaret Larson (http://www.king5.com/localnews/hometeambiosdetail.html?StoryID=223) drives a nice black TTq (225hp) coupe. It is nice. I know this because I saw her at the grocery store down the street from my apartment. Guess she lives in the neighborhood (Cougar Mountain). Just thought I'd let the list know :>. From blur at sympatico.ca Sun Mar 4 21:31:38 2001 From: blur at sympatico.ca (Burl Vibert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) References: <20010304.204753.-4026225.7.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <3AA2FA8A.7977CF15@sympatico.ca> Would you rather have Murray Walker back? That's who we had to listen to on TSN in Canada. It's amazing how that man can babble. Burl Vibert 87 5kcstq Kingston, Ontario Lawrence C Leung wrote: > > Heck, if it weren't for the sounds of the cars, I'd turn Posey off! > > LL - NY ---- F1 withdrawl symptoms starting... > > On Sun, 04 Mar 2001 13:50:53 EST STEADIRIC@aol.com writes: > >In a message dated Sun, 4 Mar 2001 1:08:10 PM Eastern Standard Time, > >Lawrence C Leung writes: > > > >>I am assuming from your posts (thanks BTW) and > >>the fact that there is no listing anywhere in the > >>local paper) that FoxSports is no longer > >>rebroadcasting Speedvision broadcasts of F1. Am > >>I right in this? > > > >Yup Speedvision only. They have the exclusive contract for F1 in the > >US. Which sucks if you ask me since they have Sam Posey commenting. > >He is So clueless when it come to F1 racing. Last night they > >replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal "Radio > >Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating > >that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." > > > >To top it off my Girlfriend hates the host's too, and wants Fox Sports > >back. > > > > > >Eric Fletcher > >'00 S4tt From orin at WOLFENET.com Sun Mar 4 18:40:07 2001 From: orin at WOLFENET.com (Orin Eman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fw: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) Message-ID: <200103050240.SAA16392@gonzo.wolfenet.com> As he says, please copy replies to mardkins@email.msn.com Forwarded message: > From mardkins@email.msn.com Sun Mar 4 15:18:12 2001 > Message-ID: <006301c0a502$13579b40$fae00b3f@pattywack> > From: "mardkins" > To: "Orin Eman" > Subject: Fw: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's > Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2001 15:23:07 -0800 > Organization: Microsoft Corporation > X-Priority: 3 > X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 5.50.4133.2400 > X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V5.50.4133.2400 > > Orin, could you forward this to the main list and see if anyone has any > ideas. I am not subscribed so they will need to reply direct. > > Thanks > Pat > > > We finally got Seans car taken apart tonight and yet anouther broken > exhaust valve. This time #3. This makes 3 confirmed valve breakages in > 4ktq's that I know about. All seem to happen the same way. 2 of the 3 had > good intercoolers 1 even being a stock 5kt intercooler. > > So it begs the question why? They were all running less than 15lbs of > boost > which 5kt's dont seem to have a problem with. The other 2 were in cylinder > 4. They all apear to have broke near the base of the stem. So does > anybody > know if the 10v turbo's in 5kt's have had problems with valve breakage? If > they do I have never heard of it. > > I do have a couple of theory's though. > > 1: Fuel volume. One of the things they all have in common is they are > using stock 4k fuel pumps. Is it possible that these fuel pumps arent > supplying the volume to keep things cool. Sean did have an EGT guage but > sadly was not watching it when it gave up. There does not seem to be > problems with knocking and it does not show up on a oxy sensor reading as > lean. Orin seems to think that they typically do not show enough detail to > be worth much valuable information. > > 2: Transmission. With the stock 4kq transmission we are spending alot of > time right near redline. This is true on PIR, Bremerton, and SIR. > Could this be the problem. I have honestly not been watching 5ktq's > tachometers on the track to see where they are running but I would guess > they could run a bit lower in the rev band for 2 reasons. Longer gearing > and better aerodynamics which helps them pull a little better at higher > speeds without stressing the engine as hard. > > So please shoot these theories down if you think they are not valid or let > me know any additional theory's you might have. Are there any solutions > that could be had reletively easy. Sean needs to put his car back together > and we both would like to feel better about pushing are cars. > > Thank you for listening and I cant wait to hear your suggestions/theories. > > Pat Martin > 86 4000csq turbo, 2 1/2 cat back, H&R-Boge holdin it up, MC and loving it. > Drilled and stopping it. Yokohama Avs intermediates turning it, K&N and uh.. > 84 4000sq AKA: The beater. > 95 subaru legacy > Bothell, Wa > > > > From marcswanson at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 21:52:44 2001 From: marcswanson at mediaone.net (Marc Swanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: <000801c0a513$13f1cfb0$1100a8c0@JATER> Message-ID: > The 20 valve NA has regular valves while the 20V (and 10V) have sodium > filled valves to withstand the turbo temps. Reliability and maximum boost > will be decreased. No biggie, swap em' in! Are you SURE that the 20v's have non-sodium exhaust valves? I seem to remember that the newer cars all had sodium exhaust valves turbo or no turbo.. Later -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From bfletcher0000 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 4 21:52:45 2001 From: bfletcher0000 at hotmail.com (Brad Fletcher) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Who's CGT and Typo Message-ID: Mike H wrote: >>I just got home from Buffalo cutting through Canada >>and east of London near the 401 & 403 junction a nice >>looking dark blue Coupe GT pulled by with a yellow S4 >>from NY following so I joined in. The CGT had been >>lowered, a mesh grill, no rings or side panel trim, >>flared fenders and custom front and rear spoilers, 16 >>or 17 in. rims and great sounding exhaust. The only >>thing that identified it as a CGT was the coupe >>graphics across the rear. He suckered us to about 80 >>mph then took off and smoked us. -- Phil Payne wrote: >Sounds like an ur-quattro in standard European trim. F600 will give >an S4 a run for its money at some rpm ranges and in some gears - we've >tried it with John Robinson's S4. Of course, the S4 will always win >on long runs - hideous low-end torque. >See http://www.isham-research/freeserve.co.uk/quattro/F600.jpg - anything >like that? -- I had a good look at it a couple of weeks ago in London at the hospital parking lot. Its a dark blue '85 that sits on a tube frame chassis. Has 17" rims, large displacement race prepared 20v, big KKK turbo custom manifold with a short inverted Y downpipe and dual 4" SS exhaust system with the pipes coming out on each side just in front of the rear wheels. Has a 6 speed gear box, RS2 suspension, hubs, brakes, competition ignition system and coil packs and electronic boost control. Only 2 front seats and the passenger legroom has been slightly sacrificed to make everything fit. All electronics are in a compartment where the back seat was and the fuel tank has been removed and a smaller one sits further back in the trunk so the whole rear area is open. The engine compartment was enlarged so the 1/4 panels were extended, flared and feathered to the side panels. Much more exaggerated than in the picture Phil submitted. With the width of rear being about 6" wider than the front it reminds me more of a Porsche than a Ur-q. He told me he got the weight down just under 2,500 pounds so I know why I couldn't catch him either but he probably has twice the hp of my S4. Brad Fletcher London, ON '01 A6 '94 S4 '87 CGT _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From pdooley at gte.net Sun Mar 4 21:47:42 2001 From: pdooley at gte.net (Pat Dooley) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: FS: Audi 4000 exhaust manifold In-Reply-To: <200103050240.SAA16392@gonzo.wolfenet.com> Message-ID: <001b01c0a51e$a6835280$6bb9173f@patco> Trying to liquidate some parts, free up some space. This is a single outlet 4 bolt pattern EM. Price flexible. I would say around $25 plus shipping. I can send digital pic to interested parties. From adhand at san.rr.com Sun Mar 4 18:59:22 2001 From: adhand at san.rr.com (Anand Dhanda) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: ok, well, back to the main question, what is needed to make a 90 coupe quattro's 20v engine into a turbo'd 20v?(preferably 3Bish) - Anand Dhanda President, Southern California Audi Club Anand@5vTurbo.net www.SoCalAudiClub.com '00 A4 1.8TQMSx Silver/Onyx Modded '91 200tqm In Search Of -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Marc Swanson Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 6:53 PM To: Peter Berrevoets; 1 Quattro List (E-mail) Subject: RE: 90cq to 20v turbo??? > The 20 valve NA has regular valves while the 20V (and 10V) have sodium > filled valves to withstand the turbo temps. Reliability and maximum boost > will be decreased. No biggie, swap em' in! Are you SURE that the 20v's have non-sodium exhaust valves? I seem to remember that the newer cars all had sodium exhaust valves turbo or no turbo.. Later -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From kbogach at home.com Sun Mar 4 22:55:55 2001 From: kbogach at home.com (kbogach) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist References: <3AA2DEE3.C5F8DBD5@stanfordalumni.org> Message-ID: <000801c0a528$2e53e9a0$68810241@ewndsr1.nj.home.com> It is interesting. I don't remember the beginning of the thread. What else did you replaced besides high pressure hose? I have slightly different problem. I replaced the hose from PS to PA (it burst) and lost steering assist. I did not address it yet cause weather is bad and I like tight steering wheel (except when I have to park in city). But it puzzles me. I am going to test PS output pressue sometime next week. Konstantin Bogach 200tq '89 200tqw '89 ----- Original Message ----- From: Wallace White To: Quattro List Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:33 PM Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist > Thanks for the replies about screwing in the bolt for the pump-to-rack > hose. A little while later I finally got it. Once again, there was no > secret to getting it. Just took many, many tries. > > Once I got things back together, I started it up for a test drive. Brake > light comes on, which happened the last time I replaced the hose. No > brake assist, too--again like last time. It must take some time before > the brake system is repressurized. > > But, I ran the engine for maybe fifteen minutes, and still no brake > assist. It didn't take more than a minute or two last time. > > Any ideas? I hope the pump didn't get hosed (pardon the pun) when the > hose burst. It did run for, oh, 15 seconds without fluid. > > Thanks, > > - Wallace > '87 5kcstq 170k From nathan.stuart at maine.edu Sun Mar 4 23:14:14 2001 From: nathan.stuart at maine.edu (Nate Stuart) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Typo References: Message-ID: <005701c0a52a$be93ca60$0300a8c0@newt> No, no, no.... that's not right either. Now that the link is fixed I see that the picture is all backwards. Look, the steering wheel, and wipers are all wrong. Go here to see what it should look like: www.cs.usm.maine.edu/~stuart/f600correct.jpg 8-) There, that's better... -Nate '89 90q > try this > > http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/f600.jpg > > it works > > the F in f600 is lower-case > > -Ryan From marcswanson at mediaone.net Sun Mar 4 23:43:45 2001 From: marcswanson at mediaone.net (Marc Swanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > ok, well, back to the main question, what is needed to make a 90 coupe > quattro's 20v engine into a turbo'd 20v?(preferably 3Bish) Quite a bit.. First off if you really want to keep your coupe block you will at least have to drill and tap for the oil return line on the block. You are lucky here because the casting is the same so you can just drill it out and use a stock oil return line to hook it up. You'll need all the 3b related turbo parts (intake/exhaust manifold turbo, etc) freeze plug for the coolant supply to the turbo Oil supply and return lines maybe some sodium exhaust valves if it isn't stock.. can't remember some means of lowering compression.. I think the 20v NA engine is near 10:1 which is too high for a turbo engine I'm forgetting a lot. This isn't an easy project. Not impossible though. Later -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From threequinns at hotmail.com Sun Mar 4 20:36:37 2001 From: threequinns at hotmail.com (Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: tahoe sighting! Message-ID: >as usual, many sightings - lots of ur-s cars, and a cool > 5k or 100/200 with those old old rims - fuchs?  same ones > steve b has on his urrkie. > > BUT the cool sighting was a white urquattro, big aftermarket >rims, stickers on the sides.  obviously an enthusiast, and >i honked and pointed as i went by.  perhaps he noticed my >stock urq ronals being worn by my a4 avant. > >lister? Hi, He lives in Truckee, I have talked to him once at the Post Office. It is an '83, but I don't think he is a lister, he didn't even glance at my 90q w/ RS2 front bumper parked next to him. Pat _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From mrbeau0 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 23:42:44 2001 From: mrbeau0 at yahoo.com (Matt Beaubien) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? References: <000801c0a513$13f1cfb0$1100a8c0@JATER> Message-ID: <012e01c0a52e$b8f9c830$1ff56c40@C464161A> Peter, Sodium valves are more of a long-term durability item--something that won't turn up for 100k+ miles. Also, the exhaust temps are not necessarily higher on a turbo engine that a NA one (if tuned properly). Modern engines limit their EGT (regardless of induction) to ~1600'F to protect the catalytic converters. Matt Beaubien '86 5kt '73 911E ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Berrevoets" To: "1 Quattro List (E-mail)" Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 8:24 PM Subject: RE: 90cq to 20v turbo??? > Biggest problem - valves > > The 20 valve NA has regular valves while the 20V (and 10V) have sodium > filled valves to withstand the turbo temps. Reliability and maximum boost > will be decreased. > > Sorry, > > Peter Berrevoets > 1990 200TQ > Toronto, Canada > http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Mar 4 23:51:06 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2001 7:12:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, adhand@san.rr.com writes: > ok, well, back to the main question, what is needed to make a 90 coupe > quattro's 20v engine into a turbo'd 20v?(preferably 3Bish) > > 3B intake and exhaust manifolds, turbo, and associated plumbing and exhaust. Also 3B ECU, igniton components, and all associated wiring harnesses. Also, since the stock 7A is 10:1 compression, a 3B long block, so basically the entire engine compartment out of a 200 20v car..a lot of work. Starting out with a 20v 7A does not do much for you...it very well could be a 4kq or other CIS car. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010304/ef3e8b0c/attachment.htm From audi at mediaone.net Mon Mar 5 00:28:55 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Typo References: <005701c0a52a$be93ca60$0300a8c0@newt> Message-ID: <3AA34E47.8D0D158E@mediaone.net> > No, no, no.... that's not right either. Now that the link is fixed I see > that the picture is all backwards. Look, the steering wheel, and wipers are > all wrong. > > Go here to see what it should look like: > www.cs.usm.maine.edu/~stuart/f600correct.jpg 8-) > > > > > http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/f600.jpg nice brick wall. the English sure know how to build brick walls. that car is kinda in the way tho' -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From wallace at stanfordalumni.org Sun Mar 4 22:22:08 2001 From: wallace at stanfordalumni.org (Wallace White) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Got the rack bolt--but now no brake assist References: <3AA2DEE3.C5F8DBD5@stanfordalumni.org> <003f01c0a513$1fe46f80$0200a8c0@fredmunr> Message-ID: <3AA33090.18FE7C34@stanfordalumni.org> Thanks, Fred and Konstantin. Curiously, I went back out to the car and started it up again, and it had brake assist. Hmm. The good news is that the new, factory hose has fixed the steering groan. The restrictor in the rebuilt hose must not have been the right size. Thanks again, - Wallace '87 5kcstq 170k From ja6 at qwest.net Mon Mar 5 00:58:44 2001 From: ja6 at qwest.net (Kim Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Mysterious Miss at 3300 RPM Message-ID: <000201c0a542$57e00e60$eab9e23f@uswest.net> I have been stumped by this for 2 years. The car just begins to "power up" under boost and at about 3300 RPM there is a slight hesitation or stumble. After which the boost will continue and pull up to 1.6/1.7(Charlie Spring) on the factory gauge but that momentary loss of power seems to take a lot of juice out of the power range. I have replaced most every thing over the last couple of years, each time I make a change I expect this stumble to go away but I haven't found the culprit yet. vacuum lines, bypass valve, throttle body hose, fuel pump. fuel lines, fuel injectors, cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires, valve job, control pressure regulator all this and much more have been replaced. Any Ideas?? Thanks Kim Johnson Minneapolis 1986 5ktq -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/208f841d/attachment.htm From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 02:25:47 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Rusty handbrake adjuster...ideas? In-Reply-To: <983593201.3aa070f1886dd@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305020250.00a8c008@pop.snet.net> I just cutoff the brake lever rod. I picked up a new one at the dealer, but they told me the pin was unavailable. Getting the pin out was a little tough, but I finally got it and used a standard clevis pin instead. It's also kinda a pain in the a$$ to get at the brake mechanism from inside, and putting it back right. Look at how it goes in before removing very closely. Put anti-seize on the rod threads to protect them for a while. good luck. -ameer At 11:20 PM 3/2/2001 , you wrote: >Well, the euphoria of having an amazingly well-working Audi has passed, >and I'm >back to battling the huge list of 'things to do'. > >While doing the brakes this week, I went to go adjust the handbrake >adjustment >back out (it was adjusted a year ago to accomidate worn pads). PLENTY of >penetrating oil (as it is just RUST) and away-we-go. > >Well, I didn't get very far. I had the socket on tight (or, maybe I really >didn't) regardless...I rounded the nut. Any ideas on what to do? It >seems the only way I can get in there is to un-do the centre support for the >driveshaft so I can lower it enough that I can work in there. > >I have two thoughts: > >A) I don't want to touch the driveshaft for fear of upsetting some cosmic >balance that has built itself up over the 12 year life of the car. I'd >hate to >have a working emergency brake, only to have problems related to the >driveshaft! > >B)I'm thinking of getting out MR. Dremel and cutting the adjustment rod from >the INSIDE of the car, sliding it through the boot and replacing it with a >new >one. I don't, however, know how it attaches to the actual handle. Does >anyone >know? Is this a removable piece? If so, I think that's my easiest angle... > > >Ideas, comments, heck..even flames welcomed. > >-Dave > >I swear, one day I'm going to work down the list of things to do so that >all I >have is to worry about is the cosmetics of the car! > > > >There are two ways to live life. >I choose to no longer live in fear. From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 02:26:31 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: [Cures for sticky lifters? '87 4kcsq] In-Reply-To: <20010302213314.13729.qmail@nwcst330.netaddress.usa.net> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305015604.017d4f00@pop.snet.net> where can you get lifters for $6...I'm looking for a 5kt. -ameer At 04:33 PM 3/2/2001 , you wrote: >I have bought and sold MANY VW/Audi cars with hydraulic lifters and one >product seems to work well (other then using the correct oil grade)-Wynn's >tune up in a can, Wal-Mart charges $3-4 for two cans and it really works, you >add it to the oil. IF you are going to change the lifters, they are available >for very low cost nowadays, $6 US or so a piece. You can also check the >underside of the lifter, if it is worn through the are used up! (the piece >that rides on the top of the valve can wear right through, alot of high >mileage diesel's do this) or the top of the lifter can sometimes get really >thin, a good indication they are due. >Greg > > > >z137@home.com wrote: > > > --------------------------------------------- > > Attachment: > > MIME Type: multipart/alternative > > --------------------------------------------- >I am sure that this has been covered here before, but alas I am new to the >list. One or more of the lifters on my new to me '87 4kcsq intermittently >sticks. tick tick tick tick. I use Mobil 1. What does the list wisdom >reccomend as far as oil additives go? BG MOA? Marvel Mystery Oil? What has >worked for you? Or is the only remedy to have the lifters replaced? What >makes them stick in the first place? Thanks in advance:-) > >If anyone knows the approximate date of the last in depth sticky lifter thread >I would love to look it up in the archives. > >Cory >'87 4kcsq > > >____________________________________________________________________ >Get free email and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1 From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Mar 5 09:35:40 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fw: Broke exhaust valves on 4000 turbos Message-ID: > We finally got Seans car taken apart tonight and yet anouther > broken exhaust valve. This time #3. This makes 3 confirmed valve > breakages in 4ktq's that I know about. All seem to happen the same > way. 2 of the 3 had good intercoolers 1 even being a stock 5kt > intercooler. > They all apear to have broke near the base of the stem. So does > anybody know if the 10v turbo's in 5kt's have had problems with > valve breakage? If they do I have never heard of it. What engine/head/cam? Sodium-filled valve stems? Was a proper turbo engine head fitted, or is it the original non-turbo head? I've never seen a stock engine break an exhaust valve. -- Phil From BeattyR at ummhc.org Mon Mar 5 07:17:23 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Mysterious Miss at 3300 RPM Message-ID: Skipped content of type multipart/alternative From duane at hunch.zk3.dec.com Mon Mar 5 07:58:13 2001 From: duane at hunch.zk3.dec.com (Andrew Duane USG) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fog lights without headlights? In-Reply-To: <3A9C9E8E.941C5ABA@mediaone.net> from "Huw Powell" at Feb 27, 2001 10:45:34 PM Message-ID: <200103051258.HAA0000087341@hunch.zk3.dec.com> Hairy green toads from Mars made Huw Powell say: > > By the way, US cars' fog lights are controlled via a relay such that they > > don't come on until your headlights are turned on to low beam. However, > > there is a modification that can be done to override this and allow > > them to be turned on without turning on the main headlights. Check > > audiworld.com for details. > > Or just say how here... pull the relay adn jump the, um, 30 and 87 > terminals - the ones that form a "T". Then the fogs will be on whenever > the ignition is on. including with the high beams... Yup, one of the standard little brass jumpers in the shape of a big "7" works perfectly. Did this on the last three Audis I had, and am about to do it on #4. Takes about 3.2 seconds. -- Andrew L. Duane (JOT-7) duane@zk3.dec.com Compaq Computer Corporation (603)-884-1294 110 Spit Brook Road M/S ZKO3-3/U14 Nashua, NH 03062-2698 Only my cat shares my opinions, and she's too psychotic to express it From BeattyR at ummhc.org Mon Mar 5 08:08:46 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Typo Message-ID: ROFL now thats funny! :) Rob -----Original Message----- From: Nate Stuart [mailto:nathan.stuart@maine.edu] Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 11:14 PM To: Ryan Hoitink; quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk; quattro@audifans.com; kfahlgren@acs.wooster.edu Subject: Re: Typo No, no, no.... that's not right either. Now that the link is fixed I see that the picture is all backwards. Look, the steering wheel, and wipers are all wrong. Go here to see what it should look like: www.cs.usm.maine.edu/~stuart/f600correct.jpg 8-) There, that's better... -Nate '89 90q > try this > > http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/f600.jpg > > it works > > the F in f600 is lower-case > > -Ryan From bernefj60 at email.msn.com Mon Mar 5 09:04:56 2001 From: bernefj60 at email.msn.com (Robert Blumel) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: WTB: A4/A6 quattro In-Reply-To: Message-ID: HI. I need to sell my 93 Toyota Land Cruiser and buy a late 90's A4 or A6 Quattro because my wife can't fit the Cruiser in her parking garage at work. Anyway, any suggestions on which years are better or if I might save $ by going with an early 90's V8. Costs associated? We're looking to spend around $16K or so give or take. She wants leather and I want a Quattro. If anyone's interested in the Cruiser, check it out at: http://www.angelfire.com/id/nwcruisers/9380seriesFSr.html TIA, Rob Blumel Bowie, MD 90 90 10v, FWD -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Marc Swanson Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 6:53 PM To: Peter Berrevoets; 1 Quattro List (E-mail) Subject: RE: 90cq to 20v turbo??? > The 20 valve NA has regular valves while the 20V (and 10V) have sodium > filled valves to withstand the turbo temps. Reliability and maximum boost > will be decreased. No biggie, swap em' in! Are you SURE that the 20v's have non-sodium exhaust valves? I seem to remember that the newer cars all had sodium exhaust valves turbo or no turbo.. Later -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From sbigelow at sprint.ca Mon Mar 5 09:04:00 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) References: <20010304.204753.-4026225.7.l.leung@juno.com> <3AA2FA8A.7977CF15@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <007d01c0a57d$2153a9c0$ed8e6395@big1> I'd rather have Murray than _anyone_. Sure, he screws up...but my Gawd what enthusiasm! Plus, he doesn't have to "dumb it down"...he knows his audience. Speedvision coverage was blacked out....they played some 70-80's F1 retrospective stuff. Great for commercial breaks. > Would you rather have Murray Walker back? That's who we had to > listen to on TSN in Canada. It's amazing how that man can > babble. > > Heck, if it weren't for the sounds of the cars, I'd turn Posey off! > > From sbigelow at sprint.ca Mon Mar 5 09:23:29 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) References: <000001c0a4fd$999b0b10$3ac4a7cb@dellboy> Message-ID: <00f501c0a57f$da642640$ed8e6395@big1> ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Eaton > highlight was the in-cockpit shots of montoya, trying to keep the car on > the island - he was all over the place - he has a lot to learn of f1. Agreed, lots of chopping the wheel back and forth.....but as high as 3rd in his first F1 event isn't too bad in my books. But Raikkoden.....whoa! _POINTS_ in his first F1 race....and only his 24th race ever. Zowie. From sbigelow at sprint.ca Mon Mar 5 09:25:40 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fw: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001 (N.A.C.) Message-ID: <010f01c0a580$27f15c20$ed8e6395@big1> > Sub_scribe here: > http://www.galeforcef1.com/ > > > Okay, since I'm obviously NOT going to see the race, what WERE the > > results (I'm assuming Mika was out of the points!). Indominable leader, > > let me guess, uh, uh, Shuey? (privately Yeah!). > > From matrault at videotron.ca Mon Mar 5 09:27:30 2001 From: matrault at videotron.ca (Mathieu Tetrault) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: paint job - what can i do with the side molding? Message-ID: hi this summer i want to get rid of the rust spot on my car. a new paint job for my old 1986 coupe gt. the problem is i dont know how to uninstall the door molding without broken it. the car is old so i dont want to install new one like the bentley manual is saying. Mathieu "the list is better than any mecanic manual. is use it a lot" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/3ea7471f/attachment.htm From sbigelow at sprint.ca Mon Mar 5 09:32:11 2001 From: sbigelow at sprint.ca (Stephen Bigelow) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Typo References: <005701c0a52a$be93ca60$0300a8c0@newt> <3AA34E47.8D0D158E@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <014301c0a581$11130fc0$ed8e6395@big1> > > > http://www.isham-research.freeserve.co.uk/quattro/f600.jpg > > nice brick wall. the English sure know how to build brick walls. that > car is kinda in the way tho' My thoughts exactly! That wall is built with a Flemish bond. From DGraber460 at aol.com Mon Mar 5 09:40:15 2001 From: DGraber460 at aol.com (DGraber460@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Mysterious Miss at 3300 RPM Message-ID: Have you checked the resistance of the air temp sensor. That made a difference on my URQ, per suggestion of Phil Payne. He's never been wrong yet as far as my experience goes. Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/c72ac6eb/attachment.htm From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Mon Mar 5 15:51:15 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?us-ascii?Q?Jorgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) In-Reply-To: <200103050240.SAA16392@gonzo.wolfenet.com> Message-ID: > > We finally got Seans car taken apart tonight and yet anouther broken > > exhaust valve. This time #3. This makes 3 confirmed valve breakages in > > 4ktq's that I know about. All seem to happen the same way. 2 > of the 3 had > > good intercoolers 1 even being a stock 5kt intercooler. I wouldn't say that a stock 5kt intercooler is a good intercooler, have you measured the intake temperature? > > So it begs the question why? They were all running less than 15lbs of > > boost > > which 5kt's dont seem to have a problem with. The other 2 > were in cylinder > > 4. They all apear to have broke near the base of the stem. So does > > anybody > > know if the 10v turbo's in 5kt's have had problems with valve > breakage? If > > they do I have never heard of it. > > > > I do have a couple of theory's though. > > 1: Fuel volume. One of the things they all have in common is they are > > using stock 4k fuel pumps. Is it possible that these fuel pumps arent > > supplying the volume to keep things cool. I don't think that they are not good enough. > > Sean did have an EGT guage but > > sadly was not watching it when it gave up. There does not seem to be > > problems with knocking and it does not show up on a oxy sensor > reading as > > lean. Orin seems to think that they typically do not show > enough detail to > > be worth much valuable information. I aggree with Orin there, lambda meters are very sensitive to exhaust temperature. On lean mixtures they show leaner then it really is. But on rich mixtures they show a richer mixture then it really is. I would say that they are useless as a warning system. I have noticed that the exhaust temperature increases very rapidly after the engine starts to run lean. A lot faster then for example the VDO EGT meters can keep up with. VDO's fast probe combined with an Autometer Gauge is a very fast combination. I can't understand why VDO's meter is three times slower then the autometer gauge when using the same probe...But that's the way it is. I have noticed that when I hit the limit the exhaust temperature increases with more then 100oF/second and that measurement is after the turbo. My highest note is around 1850oF, when I checked the meter three seconds earlier it was stable at 1500. > > 2: Transmission. With the stock 4kq transmission we are > spending alot of > > time right near redline. This is true on PIR, Bremerton, and SIR. > > Could this be the problem. I have honestly not been watching 5ktq's > > tachometers on the track to see where they are running but I > would guess > > they could run a bit lower in the rev band for 2 reasons. > Longer gearing > > and better aerodynamics which helps them pull a little better at higher > > speeds without stressing the engine as hard. The highest fuel demand are at high rpm, I got problems above 5800rpm or something like that. I am pretty sure that the CIS can't supply fuel for more then 220hp even under ideal circumstances. That would be around 13psi with stock exhaust and air box. With a freeflowing exhaust and cool air 10psi would be more like it. Limits can be stretched quite a bit if you allow the engine to lean out, but if you want safety you must get all the fuel the engine demands. My theory is that every time you use the last 1000rpms of the range you get somewhere around 1700-2200oF exhaust temp until you get into the next gear. Then the exhaust temp drops to 1500-1700oF again. This is before the turbo. This cycles the exhaust vavles to death. You could take a look at water injection, that should take care of the problem. But proper fuel injection is a better alternative. Or you could check http://members.tripod.com/turboracer/kits/, Joe has methanol injection kits that could supply you with internal coolant and the additional fuel you need. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From tbliss at mestek.com Mon Mar 5 09:50:33 2001 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: V8 Suspension & carrier bearing Message-ID: <3AA3A7B9.B261A693@mestek.com> I finally put in the straight pipes on Saturday night. Sounds great, and breathes much better. I can't get over how heavy the mid muffler is. It must be close to 40 pounds. I have 2 new projects: 1. Carrier bearing: I noticed when I did the exhaust, that the center drive shaft bearing is pretty mushy, which is probably why I hear a rubbing noise when I accelerate fast. Does anyone know where I can get a new one? I know this was brought up before, but I couldn't find the info. 2: Suspension: I would like to get a suspension set up that would maybe lower the car a little, but not drastically. My struts need replacing anyway, so I figured it was a good time. I looked at tirerack.com, but my car isn't listed. Any suggestions? TIA Theron J. Bliss Massachusetts 1990 V8 Quattro 199,000 miles Lago Blue, Grey Connolly leather http://sites.netscape.net/theronbliss/homepage From peter.a.sperry at syntegra.com Mon Mar 5 08:57:03 2001 From: peter.a.sperry at syntegra.com (Sperry, Peter A -Syntegra US) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 5KQ to 5KTQ Transformation Message-ID: <41C19CA3B7CBD411B59200508B6CBBFF1E7752@AH-Exchange-01.arh.cdc.com> This next weekend, I'll be beginning the process of dropping a turbo engine into my 5KQ. I've got the Engine & related parts, ECU, ECU harness, turbo & related parts, and fuel delivery system. I'm getting the feeling I'm missing something. I want to change (at least) the speedo to the electronic version (vs. mechanical), and I've got the sender & the instrument cluster from a CS, but I'm not sure how I'll connect things. I'm fine with the mechanical changes; it's the electrical connections that have plagued me in my sleep. Any BTDT's would be HUGELY appreciated! Peter '88 5KSQ (soon to have a new identity) '90 90Q20v -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/e142752d/attachment.htm From gja at webtv.net Mon Mar 5 10:13:27 2001 From: gja at webtv.net (gja@webtv.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 90cq to 20v turbo??? In-Reply-To: quattro-request@audifans.com's message of Mon, 5 Mar 2001 07:23:25 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <12250-3AA3AD17-826@storefull-241.iap.bryant.webtv.net> You would need to put in stronger connecting rods, stock 7A ones would bend. Glen Alfano '90 90q20v From sjensen at mindspring.com Mon Mar 5 10:19:53 2001 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (sjensen@mindspring.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Typo Message-ID: Nate Stuart wrote: Go here to see what it should look like: www.cs.usm.maine.edu/~stuart/f600correct.jpg 8-) Yeah, cool brick wall, but now it's got an iduA epuoC orttauQ in front of it. -evetS nesneJ 2 Type 44's From arcopunk at hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 15:28:19 2001 From: arcopunk at hotmail.com (d s) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: sure shot rust removal Message-ID: Is there a way to comepletly rid my car of rust. There are only a few bad spots and I was thinkin of grinding them out and filling them before the car goes to the paint shop.?????? thanks, derrick 87cgt _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From BeattyR at ummhc.org Mon Mar 5 10:34:39 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) Message-ID: Been paying attention to this thread and wanted to ask some pointed questions about my 5ktq.... As i have chipped it and will be putting in a free flowing exhaust, should i be looking at an aftermarket fuel delievery system as well to prevent engine self destruction? Rob -----Original Message----- From: Jorgen Karlsson [mailto:jurg@pp.sbbs.se] Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:51 AM To: Audi Quattro List; mardkins@email.msn.com Subject: RE: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) > > We finally got Seans car taken apart tonight and yet anouther broken > > exhaust valve. This time #3. This makes 3 confirmed valve breakages in > > 4ktq's that I know about. All seem to happen the same way. 2 > of the 3 had > > good intercoolers 1 even being a stock 5kt intercooler. I wouldn't say that a stock 5kt intercooler is a good intercooler, have you measured the intake temperature? > > So it begs the question why? They were all running less than 15lbs of > > boost > > which 5kt's dont seem to have a problem with. The other 2 > were in cylinder > > 4. They all apear to have broke near the base of the stem. So does > > anybody > > know if the 10v turbo's in 5kt's have had problems with valve > breakage? If > > they do I have never heard of it. > > > > I do have a couple of theory's though. > > 1: Fuel volume. One of the things they all have in common is they are > > using stock 4k fuel pumps. Is it possible that these fuel pumps arent > > supplying the volume to keep things cool. I don't think that they are not good enough. > > Sean did have an EGT guage but > > sadly was not watching it when it gave up. There does not seem to be > > problems with knocking and it does not show up on a oxy sensor > reading as > > lean. Orin seems to think that they typically do not show > enough detail to > > be worth much valuable information. I aggree with Orin there, lambda meters are very sensitive to exhaust temperature. On lean mixtures they show leaner then it really is. But on rich mixtures they show a richer mixture then it really is. I would say that they are useless as a warning system. I have noticed that the exhaust temperature increases very rapidly after the engine starts to run lean. A lot faster then for example the VDO EGT meters can keep up with. VDO's fast probe combined with an Autometer Gauge is a very fast combination. I can't understand why VDO's meter is three times slower then the autometer gauge when using the same probe...But that's the way it is. I have noticed that when I hit the limit the exhaust temperature increases with more then 100oF/second and that measurement is after the turbo. My highest note is around 1850oF, when I checked the meter three seconds earlier it was stable at 1500. > > 2: Transmission. With the stock 4kq transmission we are > spending alot of > > time right near redline. This is true on PIR, Bremerton, and SIR. > > Could this be the problem. I have honestly not been watching 5ktq's > > tachometers on the track to see where they are running but I > would guess > > they could run a bit lower in the rev band for 2 reasons. > Longer gearing > > and better aerodynamics which helps them pull a little better at higher > > speeds without stressing the engine as hard. The highest fuel demand are at high rpm, I got problems above 5800rpm or something like that. I am pretty sure that the CIS can't supply fuel for more then 220hp even under ideal circumstances. That would be around 13psi with stock exhaust and air box. With a freeflowing exhaust and cool air 10psi would be more like it. Limits can be stretched quite a bit if you allow the engine to lean out, but if you want safety you must get all the fuel the engine demands. My theory is that every time you use the last 1000rpms of the range you get somewhere around 1700-2200oF exhaust temp until you get into the next gear. Then the exhaust temp drops to 1500-1700oF again. This is before the turbo. This cycles the exhaust vavles to death. You could take a look at water injection, that should take care of the problem. But proper fuel injection is a better alternative. Or you could check http://members.tripod.com/turboracer/kits/, Joe has methanol injection kits that could supply you with internal coolant and the additional fuel you need. Jorgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From BSWANN at arinc.com Mon Mar 5 10:37:17 2001 From: BSWANN at arinc.com (Swann, Benjamin R. (BSWANN)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: re. 4KQ Idle wandering? Questions and Thoughts. Message-ID: <09328AED5429D311A3000008C7911B100576749E@exanpmb1.arinc.com> Rick, I had had some intermittant flakyness prior to installing the 264 cam. It was exacerbated somewhat after installing the cam, although the power and smoothness was notable during acceleration after Cam installation, which included new lifters. Here are among the things I did since to resolve drivablity especially rough idle and warm-up weirdness: Thermo-sensor located on bottom of cooling feed to head - helped, but not perfect. New wires, plugs, cap-and rotor - helped but not perfect. Incidentally had to replace the thermo-time sender/switch located on top of cooling feed to head, as it snapped when removing connector. I had also found the crankcase breather hose was failing/failed when I removed to clean. New/used cat(mine still had good core, but had to remove to find out). This was mainly to replace the OXY sensor - engine now runs smooth, but had some idle bounce. Adjusted throttle screw up a tad - no idle bounce, but idles a tad high.. around 900 RPM. I know everything is tight, and fuel injectors, pump and filter were replaced awhile back and the fuel pressure regulator cleaned, BG44K, etc.. Car idles fairly well now, but not perfect, still some tweaking is in order. Engine pulls solidly past to redline where I discovered there is an ignition/fuel pump cutout. I probably still need to adjust the mixture, as I had progressivly enriched prior to replacing OXY sensor. At this point, I have no real incentive to continue with project 4KQ(87.5 GTCoupe engine mod & transplant), but will anyway, just not as fast, as I expect the novelty of new found power will wear out soon. I expect something will have to break (uhoh!) for my wife to allow me to proceed with the swap{;0}even though I already spent the $$$. In short, there were probably several marginal components that added up to mediocre running that may need to be resolved. I hope this helps. Regards, Ben http://www.homestead.com/Ben_Swann/myaudi.html BTW - 282 is a rather agressive stick to be running in the low compression stock motor. IMHO you'll have to work diligently to get it to idle correctly, but it should not hunt/wander. p.s.Anyone need a complete 2.3l setup with ELGIN 272 CAM? I have a boat which needs work - too many projects for now. [In my 4KQ I have an aftermaket cam shaft, and its pretty big. 282 to be exact, and needless to say it changed the way my car runs greatly, the horsepower increase is large but the starting and running of the car is terrible. It only has trouble cold staring, and in warm weather it runs like a top but lately when I come to a stop after driving, the idle wanders up and down up and down like a balance scale but never levels out. Each time it dips it gets progessevly worse. We have disconnected the O2 sensor because the car runs better on a fixed CO setting, but I want to know what else could cause the hunting or wandering of my idle like that, temp sensor? ignition? Any thoughts clues. I have had the cam for about 4 months now and when the car is in motion it pulls hard, and runs like NEW, just idle and start up sucks, the idle lopes, but that is not the wandering problem, the lope is due to the large duarion, i know that, so any help or advice would be apriciated. Thanks. -Rick Heinlein 1987 4000CS Quattro w/super suspension http://www.rickyphunk.iwarp.com/carpage.html] From JJK1204 at aol.com Mon Mar 5 11:01:34 2001 From: JJK1204 at aol.com (JJK1204@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: Last night they replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal "Radio Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." > Eric Fletcher > From Steadi at swbell.net Mon Mar 5 10:28:41 2001 From: Steadi at swbell.net (Eric Fletcher S.O.C.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > From Michael Schumacher post race interview: "The reason I had my hand on top > of my helmet was that I had taped an air vent to stop wind getting in my > eyes, but it was getting too hot and so I pulled the tape off." > > AND it was Steve Machett who did the tear-off speculation which was dismissed > by the others in the broadcast. > > That?s MUCH different than a Tear-Off (which is to keep the shield clean). It?s no matter anyway, they were still speculating that he was ?Cleaning? the air intake. Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/021146d3/attachment.htm From Steadi at swbell.net Mon Mar 5 10:20:18 2001 From: Steadi at swbell.net (Eric Fletcher S.O.C.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Subject: Phil: Anyone else notice this? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > And? Smash hit in 1973 (and 1980-ish - QE2) and a cheque in 1981? Just more Checks > My daughter's boyfriend is in the business. Royalty payments take > _YEARS_. No they go on for years. First check is back to the artist 60 days from first accounting period (first 30 days is the the first accounting period) Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From Steadi at swbell.net Mon Mar 5 10:20:18 2001 From: Steadi at swbell.net (Eric Fletcher S.O.C.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Audi continues 1-2 finish....... In-Reply-To: <3AA2C72A.1106CDF8@pcrealm.net> Message-ID: > in Texas. The Panoz ran very strong...new motor etc. finished 3rd. ^^^^^^^^^ Try Mule Motor. As in last years motor. Not the motor they plan on running this year. Eric Fletcher '00 S4tt From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Mon Mar 5 17:41:52 2001 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Inoperative oil temperature gauge Message-ID: <76g7at8e2dlrurrvgo4vn2s7p4r6oush8e@4ax.com> The oil temperature gauge on my '90 200TQ doesn't work. How do I find out if it's the sensor (BTW, where is is located?), the gauge or the wiring? One more thing: What pin on the 4-pin connector for multi-function temperature sensor do you connect to ground to see the coolant gauge run to the top and trigger the auto-check warning? The 100/200 Bentley is somewhere in the mail, but in the meantime, I ask the stupid questions here.. :-) -- Regards, ES From de at aztek-eng.com Mon Mar 5 09:59:00 2001 From: de at aztek-eng.com (DeWitt Harrison) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: WTB: interior trim pc., type 44 Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305095554.00b65560@antero> I want to buy a black leather covered cassette box lid for the center console of 5000cs. TIA. DeWitt Harrison Boulder, CO 88 5kcstq From v8q at bellsouth.net Mon Mar 5 12:26:25 2001 From: v8q at bellsouth.net (David Head) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Blaupunkt antenna plug converter Message-ID: <3AA3CC40.CB78DE46@bellsouth.net> I'm planning on adding a rear 'real' AM/FM antenna to the v8q shortly, and running a new cable. Who sells the adaptor to change the male cable end to a female cable end? I was at Radio Shack today and couldn't seem to find the right converter. From Anthony.Altieri at us.millwardbrown.com Mon Mar 5 11:42:56 2001 From: Anthony.Altieri at us.millwardbrown.com (Altieri, Anthony (MBFF cs)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Failed Emissions Message-ID: <7D489410B4D1D2118A0A0090274EA7B9014A21C5@x-ff2.milwrdbrn.com> My '87 4kq recently failed CT emissions. CO was 5.66. (pass is <1.08). HC barely passed at 161.1 (pass is <168.0). Can someone please lay out possible causes for this type of failure? I know it can't be diagnosed like this, but a list of possible culprits would be helpful. As far as I know, the O2 sensor and Cat are suspect, but beyond that, I don't know. TIA, Anthony. PS. The car also failed because they said the fuel cap had a bad seal (???) Any thoughts on that? From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 17:48:32 2001 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 5KQ to 5KTQ Transformation Message-ID: >This next weekend, I'll be beginning the process of dropping a turbo engine >into my 5KQ. I've got the Engine & related parts, ECU, ECU harness, turbo >& related parts, and fuel delivery system. I'm getting the feeling I'm >missing something. Peter, With relatively nice 5KTQ's pulling short dollars these days are you sure you want to go through with this? I would bet with parts cost and your time it would be a wash, not to mention you (might) still have the underpinnings of a non turbo car; 4 bolt hubs, single puck front calipers, softer suspension, lighting, interior, instrumentation, exhaust? The most important that you didn't mention I suppose is the braking system. Make sure you get more powerful binders to go with the turbo. Good Luck Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 12:58:54 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Failed Emissions In-Reply-To: <7D489410B4D1D2118A0A0090274EA7B9014A21C5@x-ff2.milwrdbrn.c om> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305125739.00a3ae88@pop.snet.net> If the NOx test passed, the cat is prolly working. Sounds like it's either a bad o2 sensor or wrong mixture setting. Just buy a new gas cap. good luck. -ameer At 12:42 PM 3/5/2001 , you wrote: >My '87 4kq recently failed CT emissions. CO was 5.66. (pass is <1.08). HC >barely passed at 161.1 (pass is <168.0). Can someone please lay out >possible causes for this type of failure? I know it can't be diagnosed like >this, but a list of possible culprits would be helpful. As far as I know, >the O2 sensor and Cat are suspect, but beyond that, I don't know. > >TIA, > >Anthony. > >PS. The car also failed because they said the fuel cap had a bad seal (???) >Any thoughts on that? From tech at flashmail.com Mon Mar 5 11:57:45 2001 From: tech at flashmail.com (Richard J. Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Inoperative oil temperature gauge In-Reply-To: <76g7at8e2dlrurrvgo4vn2s7p4r6oush8e@4ax.com> Message-ID: <5.0.1.4.2.20010305115703.00aaf8d0@mail.flashmail.com> on my 4kq... if you ground the sensor wire the gauge will peg out... this indicated to me that the sensor is NFG....... HTH! -rich '86 4kq At 10:41 AM 3/5/01, you wrote: >The oil temperature gauge on my '90 200TQ doesn't work. How do I find >out if it's the sensor (BTW, where is is located?), the gauge or the >wiring? > >One more thing: What pin on the 4-pin connector for multi-function >temperature sensor do you connect to ground to see the coolant gauge >run to the top and trigger the auto-check warning? > >The 100/200 Bentley is somewhere in the mail, but in the meantime, I >ask the stupid questions here.. :-) > >-- >Regards, >ES From audi at mediaone.net Mon Mar 5 13:21:34 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Inoperative oil temperature gauge References: <5.0.1.4.2.20010305115703.00aaf8d0@mail.flashmail.com> Message-ID: <3AA4035E.2B23E0F3@mediaone.net> > on my 4kq... > if you ground the sensor wire the gauge will peg out... > this indicated to me that the sensor is NFG....... and the sensor is usually located in the bottom of the oil pump, which is on the front of the block. > >The oil temperature gauge on my '90 200TQ doesn't work. How do I find > >out if it's the sensor (BTW, where is is located?), the gauge or the > >wiring? -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From orin at WOLFENET.com Mon Mar 5 10:12:07 2001 From: orin at WOLFENET.com (Orin Eman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fw: Broke exhaust valves on 4000 turbos In-Reply-To: from "quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk" at Mar 05, 2001 09:35:40 AM Message-ID: <200103051812.KAA25499@gonzo.wolfenet.com> > > We finally got Seans car taken apart tonight and yet anouther > > broken exhaust valve. This time #3. This makes 3 confirmed valve > > breakages in 4ktq's that I know about. All seem to happen the same > > way. 2 of the 3 had good intercoolers 1 even being a stock 5kt > > intercooler. > > > They all apear to have broke near the base of the stem. So does > > anybody know if the 10v turbo's in 5kt's have had problems with > > valve breakage? If they do I have never heard of it. > > What engine/head/cam? Sodium-filled valve stems? Was a proper > turbo engine head fitted, or is it the original non-turbo head? All MC engines with MC heads... Pat's head was 'refreshed' before installation in the 4kq - one would think it would have the right valves though. > I've never seen a stock engine break an exhaust valve. Neither have I. Orin. From j_shost at excite.com Mon Mar 5 10:45:28 2001 From: j_shost at excite.com (John Shost) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Audi continues 1-2 finish....... Message-ID: <10181729.983817928459.JavaMail.imail@bronty> On Mon, 05 Mar 2001 10:20:18 -0600, Eric Fletcher S.O.C. wrote: > > in Texas. The Panoz ran very strong...new motor etc. finished 3rd. > ^^^^^^^^^ > > Try Mule Motor. As in last years motor. Not the motor they plan on running > this year. > > > Eric Fletcher > '00 S4tt > No, this years 4L motor. Just not developed to full power potential. _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Mon Mar 5 19:03:50 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: >> Last night they replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal >> "Radio Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating >> that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." > From Michael Schumacher post race interview: "The reason I had my > hand on top of my helmet was that I had taped an air vent to stop > wind getting in my eyes, but it was getting too hot and so I pulled > the tape off." It obviously was a dead radio, because that's what Flavio said in his pit wall interview: "We couldn't hear Michael and asked him to tap his helmet if he could hear us." One of them is not telling the truth. I'd put money on knowing which. -- Phil From konstantin.bogach at msdw.com Mon Mar 5 14:14:12 2001 From: konstantin.bogach at msdw.com (Konstantin Bogach) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1159 - 16 msgs References: <200103051223.HAA08038@audifans.com> Message-ID: <3AA3E584.EACDDC14@msdw.com> Wallace, I am glad you got it. I could be just air or contamination blockage (hope it was 1st). I am driving without steering assist 2 month already. No hopes left it will fix itself. Konstantin. > > > Thanks, Fred and Konstantin. Curiously, I went back out to the car and > started it up again, and it had brake assist. Hmm. > > The good news is that the new, factory hose has fixed the steering > groan. The restrictor in the rebuilt hose must not have been the right > size. > > Thanks again, > > - Wallace > '87 5kcstq 170k > From Anthony.Altieri at us.millwardbrown.com Mon Mar 5 13:44:29 2001 From: Anthony.Altieri at us.millwardbrown.com (Altieri, Anthony (MBFF cs)) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Failed Emissions Message-ID: <7D489410B4D1D2118A0A0090274EA7B9014A21CA@x-ff2.milwrdbrn.com> Sorry, forgot to mention that the NO reading passed by a wide margin (400, pass is 1200) Thanks. > -----Original Message----- > From: Altieri, Anthony (MBFF cs) > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:43 PM > To: 'quattro@audifans.com' > Subject: 4kcsq Failed Emissions > > My '87 4kq recently failed CT emissions. CO was 5.66. (pass is <1.08). > HC barely passed at 161.1 (pass is <168.0). Can someone please lay out > possible causes for this type of failure? I know it can't be diagnosed > like this, but a list of possible culprits would be helpful. As far as I > know, the O2 sensor and Cat are suspect, but beyond that, I don't know. > > TIA, > > Anthony. > > PS. The car also failed because they said the fuel cap had a bad seal > (???) Any thoughts on that? From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Mar 5 15:43:40 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Delrin Bearing Suport Shipping Today Message-ID: <12.99f58c2.27d5547c@aol.com> Just a quick note to say that all who are paid up will have their parts shipped today, and will likely have them by the end of this week. I have more available if anyone is intersted, $50 shipped. Javad From auditude at neta.com Mon Mar 5 13:45:33 2001 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: 5kcstq MM hose replaced, better power and driveability results Message-ID: <3AA3987D.22343.A18DA0@localhost> While on a road trip, I noticed symptoms indicating a blown Michelin Man hose (juddering upon throttle lift off to part throttle, limited/1.1bar boost levels, maybe some 'sssshhhh' noise). I had the replacement hose in the trunk, and put it on. Wow, I think the old hose must've been leaking a little bit, before it became worse and very noticeable. The car is now faster than it's been for quite a while, perhaps ever while I've owned it. I did check the hose thoroughly in the past, and when I got the new hose, I didn't put it on because the old one was intact. At the time, that hose wasn't the constraint or failed component in the system, so I focused elsewhere and kept the new one as a spare. I'm starting to appreciate that these cars are decently quick when they are stock, as long as everything works. Also, before I started my road trip, I noticed my upper WG hose, the one that comes from the WGFV, had broken and was hanging. I do still have some original/old hoses that I haven't yet replaced. I'm now getting strong 1.3/1.4 bar indicated on the stock gauge. There is usable boost at almost those levels in lower gears, where lately I wasn't getting that much boost except at the very end of 3rd gear and up's usable rpms. Very usable power on the 10 coming back from CA to AZ (400mi one way). Absent any other high speed cars to show me otherwise, I would almost say that there is "enough" power to get the job done. But a chip/spring combo is next. This will most likely be followed by some new struts, since I'll be borderline popping wheelies when the boost hits, it seesaws so much. I'm thinking Bilstein's and stock springs I guess. It was a nice drive, I had just gotten a new cd player installed, and the new tires, tint, a/c charge, and eurolites were all welcome features of the trip. I'm enjoying this car quite a bit now. What a difference a hose makes. It can't be stressed enough, to get all the stock systems working well before looking for other mods. Later, Ken p.s. I finally talked to a muffler shop in CA that I knew had advertised specials for mandrel bent 3" exhaust for like $250. After the guy stood there speculating that he couldn't get 3" over the rear axle without even taking at look under the car first, and then tried to tell me that it was okay to have a 3" piece going into a 2.5", or that 2.5" would be fine everywhere (too damn close to stock for the trouble, I say), I concluded that I'll probably end up piecing together and welding my own catback system when the time comes. From BRIT4VWS at aol.com Mon Mar 5 16:10:15 2001 From: BRIT4VWS at aol.com (BRIT4VWS@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: Fwd: FW: Virus Warning] Message-ID: <3a.11af6db8.27d55ab7@aol.com> Skipped content of type multipart/alternative-------------- next part -------------- An embedded message was scrubbed... From: CO303DENVERBOY19@aol.com Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: Fwd: FW: Virus Warning] Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 16:01:55 EST Size: 8463 Url: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/f6d9b588/attachment.eml From msvphoto at pacbell.net Mon Mar 5 13:16:39 2001 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Help, my 87 5kcstq is not happy--Fool Pump? Message-ID: <3AA40237.40F9A251@pacbell.net> Er, read dead :(. Perhaps the car is jealous of all the attention I have paid of late to the 1983 ovloV 240 turbo wagon project car? I have strived to give the 5kcstq equal attention so it wouldn't get jealous but you know who these things can go ;-) I must have angered the Audi gods in some way anyhow... Here's the saga. Last Thursday night I am driving along (on Felton-Empire Grade for you locals who know the road) and my car starts to buck and gag, much the same way as when hitting overboost of the rev limiter (in other words, abrupt). I find a safe spot to pull off and by the time I get the hood open it died. I wound up getting the car towed home and used the ovloV to get to Laguna Seca Friday for day two of shooting the QCUSA driver's school (where I got some nice shots by the way). When I got home Friday night I tried starting the car and low and behold it ran fine (this bummed me out even more than the no AAA+ tow bill since we all know how fun chasing elusive intermittents can be). I tried driving it the next day...ran great, for a couple miles anyway ;-) Thankfully this time it died close to home (where it is still sitting in a pretty safe spot...I caught a cold at the track on Friday). I recall resoldering my fuel pump relay and decided that it was worth a shot in the dark to start there. Installed a new one yesterday and still no go. It was pouring down rain and working in the fuse box in the rain is not a good idea I found out...it got quite a bit of water in it off the back of the raised hood :( Anyway, I tried to pull codes for "no start" and none appeared to have set. I then ran the fuel pump output test and did not hear that sound I know and love of a working fuel pump. Of course my gas tank would be nearly full now too...just filled it in Monterey on the way home Thursday night. So, my guess is that the fool pump has suddenly gone kaput. But I am not 100% sure hence my long-winded post. I will get the car back home and work on it there, perhaps not 'till the weekend since we have two other running cars (if you can call a couple olvoVs that). Meanwhile, can anyone provide a reliable means of making sure it is the fool pump before I order one? My other thoughts included the in-tank filter screen thing clogging up but I doubt that would cause total and abrupt shut-down (would it?) or an open wiring connection someplace (fuel pump relay has been replaced and the fuse is good). I'll dig in deeper once the car is home and under cover of my carport. I know I should pop the fuse panel up and make sure there is no damage festering from the dousing of water I gave it in the rain yesterday and will examine things closer there. Any and all fool pump replacement BTDTs will also be appreceated. Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From markbyrum at erols.com Mon Mar 5 16:31:58 2001 From: markbyrum at erols.com (Mark W. Byrum, Jr.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Fwd: Badtimes Virus Warning :-) References: Message-ID: <3AA405CE.2000003@erols.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/fab004f5/attachment.htm From msvphoto at pacbell.net Mon Mar 5 13:38:21 2001 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Audi continues 1-2 finish....... Message-ID: <3AA4074D.FD2E0161@pacbell.net> In a message dated 3/5/2001 "Eric Fletcher S.O.C." writes: << The Panoz ran very strong...new motor etc. finished 3rd. ^^^^^^^^^ Try Mule Motor. As in last years motor. Not the motor they plan on running this year. >> Not in the white 2001 LMP07 that finished third. It did run the new 4.0L V8, not the larger Elan Power Products engine they ran last year, according to the PSCR and Panoz website press releases. No doubt there are plans for further development (after all, who can afford to stand pat in motorsports?) but the LMP07 was the complete package and this was only the second race and it already beat an Audi R8 (all be it the Champion car which they had zero test and development time on prior to the race weekend). I did hear one of the announcers mention a "mule motor" in the broadcast but I believe that was in reference to the 2000 chassis (black car). One thing is for sure, the new LMP07 will push the Audis much harder than anything has so far... Now we need to see better car counts, Sebring looks very promising in that regard. Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From quattro at centurytel.net Mon Mar 5 14:20:16 2001 From: quattro at centurytel.net (Joseph Rae) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: paint job - what can i do with the side molding? References: Message-ID: <006801c0a5c2$76a04fb0$0b00a8c0@killerb> I don't think it is possible to remove it without destroying it. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Mathieu Tetrault To: quattro@audifans.com Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 6:27 AM Subject: paint job - what can i do with the side molding? hi this summer i want to get rid of the rust spot on my car. a new paint job for my old 1986 coupe gt. the problem is i dont know how to uninstall the door molding without broken it. the car is old so i dont want to install new one like the bentley manual is saying. Mathieu "the list is better than any mecanic manual. is use it a lot" -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/b9014f64/attachment.htm From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 18:01:23 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> When I send messages to the list now, I keep getting bounced messages as below. Do you guys get it too? How do we wake up this guy...He needs to get rid of some of his emails or shutoff his audifans service. I don't know how any of you guys can be on the list using web-based email...it must take FOREVER to sift thru this sh!t... -ameer >Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2001 14:23:08 -0500 >From: root@mailfo2.xcelcom.com >To: Ameer Antar >Subject: Re: 4kcsq Failed Emissions > >I am sorry, but your message was undeliverable. The user >audiguy@mailroom.com has exceeded his/her account limit. From spokes at mail.the-wire.com Mon Mar 5 18:04:54 2001 From: spokes at mail.the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: Hold on to your door trim! Message-ID: <983833494.3aa41b960e5c3@webmail.the-wire.com> With the whole door trim discussion going on... I have held the door trim on my audi with great sucess using a 3M "weatherstrip adhesive" 3M part number 80119. The best way to use it is to apply it to the weatherstrip, and (if possible) clamp the weatherstrip to the door overnight (I have a piece of plexiglass I use to clamp the door trim) . When I've done that I've had NO problems with furthur peeling. Too bad I never got to doing the piece I knocked off last week!! -Dave There are two ways to live life. I choose to no longer live in fear. From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 18:06:03 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: pressure gradient switch [5kT] Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305175010.00ac99f0@pop.snet.net> I was looking in the Bentley today and noticed that '85+ KH engines have a pressure gradient switch for cold accel. enrichment. Does the MC engine have one? [I couldn't find one in the book]. Would it be worth it to add the valve to my '84 KH? I've noticed that the car could use extra help when cold, but I have other cold-running issues. When I get down to replacing everything, should I add the gradient switch to the list? Ay recommendations on part sources, wiring, BTDT's? Thanks much. -ameer From audi at mediaone.net Mon Mar 5 18:27:12 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs References: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> Message-ID: <3AA44B00.5FD75857@mediaone.net> > When I send messages to the list now, I keep getting bounced messages as > below. Do you guys get it too? I was, but it seems to have stopped. Idea! - Let's discuss it for a week now.... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From auditude at neta.com Mon Mar 5 16:26:45 2001 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: S8 sighting Message-ID: <3AA3BE45.31086.1352824@localhost> This morning I saw a cream colored S8, brand new with dealer plates, go through the McDonald's drive-thru. The driver seemed like a successful exec type. Very nice car. It was so understated- ly classy. Even if I didn't know what it was, it was very obviously a special car. Somehow I don't picture the driver as being a lister, but he could be. This is is Mesa, AZ at the Southern and Greenfield McD's. Later, Ken From dave.eaton at clear.net.nz Tue Mar 6 12:36:20 2001 From: dave.eaton at clear.net.nz (David Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <3aa422f4.6958.0@clear.net.nz> actually, i'd wager both are true. this case perfectly illustrates the perils of the incomplete question. dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q -----Original Message----- From: Date: Mon, 05 Mar 2001 19:03:50+0000 Subject: Re: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) >> Last night they replayed Schuey patting his helmet (Pretty much a universal >> "Radio Dead" signal) when he passed the pit tower and Sam was speculating >> that he was "Checking the intake for a tear off." > From Michael Schumacher post race interview: "The reason I had my > hand on top of my helmet was that I had taped an air vent to stop > wind getting in my eyes, but it was getting too hot and so I pulled > the tape off." It obviously was a dead radio, because that's what Flavio said in his pit wall interview: "We couldn't hear Michael and asked him to tap his helmet if he could hear us." One of them is not telling the truth. I'd put money on knowing which. From ameer at snet.net Mon Mar 5 18:58:09 2001 From: ameer at snet.net (Ameer Antar) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:45 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs In-Reply-To: <3AA44B00.5FD75857@mediaone.net> References: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> Message-ID: <4.2.0.58.20010305185729.00a26858@pop.snet.net> actually, mine keep bouncing back, still...I don't know why yer not getting it now...so what can we do? -ameer At 09:27 PM 3/5/2001 , Huw Powell wrote: > > When I send messages to the list now, I keep getting bounced messages as > > below. Do you guys get it too? > >I was, but it seems to have stopped. Idea! - Let's discuss it for a >week now.... > >-- >Huw Powell > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From pwrr at netzero.net Mon Mar 5 19:05:35 2001 From: pwrr at netzero.net (Pedro Rodriguez) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ Message-ID: <001601c0a5d1$2d19fe40$0c7db6c7@default> I am seriously considering transplanting the 20V turbo engine from my 1991 200TQ into my 1991 CQ. The 200TQ has almost 200K, but all major components are fine (I drive this car everyday). The 1991 CQ has about 70K. I have compiled some very helpful information about the transplant, but I guess there is never enough. So, any comment or suggestions are most welcome. My question, however, has to do with the gearbox/front differential. I believe that physically the gearbox/front differential are the same in both cars. Does anyone know if the gearing is the same? If the gearing is not the same, is the gearing on the 200TQ gearbox closer to the S2 gearing than the CQ's? Thanks, Pedro 1991 200TQ 1991 CQ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/05305803/attachment.htm From robert at s-cars.org Mon Mar 5 19:00:51 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: My _other_ big passion - NAC Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010305185940.02200560@mail.charter.net> Hi Y'all, So ya like snow, huh? Take a gander at: http://www.cabelasiditarod.com/2001/index.html Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From smitty at pcrealm.net Mon Mar 5 19:07:03 2001 From: smitty at pcrealm.net (Frederick Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs References: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> <3AA44B00.5FD75857@mediaone.net> Message-ID: <3AA42A27.58F9FA1C@pcrealm.net> Ok,you moderate. 8-] From 5kcstq at sisna.com Mon Mar 5 17:19:43 2001 From: 5kcstq at sisna.com (Mark Rutherford) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 Message-ID: <000f01c0a598$78e290a0$702afea9@5kcstqsisna.com> My car will not start. Pulled the codes got 2113, from SMJ I came up with Hall sender in distributor, Distributor alignment, faulty sender, Mis-located sensor & distributor. The problem also seems to be tempature related. No start when it is warm, but starts fine when cold. Any ideas where to look next. Thanks 5kcstq@sisna.com From jurg at pp.sbbs.se Tue Mar 6 01:25:48 2001 From: jurg at pp.sbbs.se (=?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Robert Beatty wrote: > Been paying attention to this thread and wanted to ask some pointed > questions about my 5ktq.... > > As i have chipped it and will be putting in a free flowing > exhaust, should i > be looking at an aftermarket fuel delievery system as well to > prevent engine > self destruction? I think that you should invest in an EGT meter, the combination of a VDO probe and an Autometer gauge works very good. The autometer salesman will of course tell you that only their probes can be used, but they are not suitable in our application and they are extremely overpriced. VDO normally delivers the quick probe with a 1/8"tip on a thicker probe body, you must check that they do not deliver the slow probe that are around 5/16" thick all the way. Getting the whole kit from VDO is not a good idea, I don't know why but their meter is a lot slower then Autometers when using the same probe. It is easiest to install the probe after the turbo, we don't have much choice on our cars. If you see temperatures after the turbo that are higher then 1400?F the general rule is that you should back off the throttle. For example water injection or the methanol injection kits I mentioned in an earlier mail is often enough to get back on safe ground again. I will put together a EFI kit for our engines soon, the 'top model' built on my 80TQ is almost finished but I honestly think that it is to expensive. It is somewhere around $2200 including everything. I have heard that the ecu alone is priced around $2500 in the US! I will try to work out a combination that give more bang for the $ when I do the install on the 200TQ. J?rgen Karlsson Gothenburg, Sweden. From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Mar 5 19:32:41 2001 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ In-Reply-To: <001601c0a5d1$2d19fe40$0c7db6c7@default> Message-ID: <001a01c0a5d4$f3f45620$d97afea9@noone> Pedro, Although that's a neat idea, if your '91 200q is in good condition, I hope you don't do it. Call me a purist, but it would be my wish that as many of these cars be kept on the road as possible. Cannibalizing a perfectly good car doesn't make much sense to me. I would rather try and find an engine from a wrecked '91 200q or an S4/S6, preferably the latter for the distributorless ignition. Taka From north at bright.net Mon Mar 5 19:53:26 2001 From: north at bright.net (R. Bristol) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges Message-ID: <000b01c0a5d7$db566d80$e6028fd1@randy> Hello, I'm looking for rear badges for my 86' 4KCSQ. New or in excellent condition preferred. Any help or info is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Reid Bristol 86' 4kcs Q From THEEARTHGUY at cs.com Mon Mar 5 20:12:41 2001 From: THEEARTHGUY at cs.com (THEEARTHGUY@cs.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Rear subframe bushing Message-ID: How much can I expect to pay to get the subframe bushing changed out? The back-end of my 86 4kq is wandering a lot, and I get a loud THUMP when letting out the clutch. I thought I'd ask you guys first before getting potentially reamed from the local Euro mechanic. Thanks, and please email with your ideas. Chris theearthguy@cs.com From sitzman at core.binghamton.edu Mon Mar 5 20:17:38 2001 From: sitzman at core.binghamton.edu (Andrew Sitzer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Binghamton NY get together! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hey All -- despite this awful weather we are having, Im still up for the TGI-Fridays dinner meet tomarrow.. I will definitly be there. If it is a low turnout we can try doing it again somitime -- but do come out if you can :) (Heck, prove that your audi can handle some snow :) When: Tuesday March 6th Time: 7pm Where: TGI-Fridays on vestal parkway in walmart shopping plaza Phone: I can be reached at 607-759-7204 in case of problems -Andrew S. From audi at mediaone.net Mon Mar 5 20:27:31 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs References: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> <3AA44B00.5FD75857@mediaone.net> <3AA42A27.58F9FA1C@pcrealm.net> Message-ID: <3AA46733.57FA4256@mediaone.net> > Ok,you moderate. 8-] I not moderate, I radical ;-p -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From Audimobiles at aol.com Mon Mar 5 20:18:27 2001 From: Audimobiles at aol.com (Audimobiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: paint job - what can i do with the side molding? Message-ID: BTDT, it can be removed with extreme care. Its best to do this on a ~warm~ sunny day. Some of the mouldings I managed to take off peeling from top to bottom, but most had to come off starting with the sides. Using the latter method increases the risk of deforming the trim or bending that aluminum strip. If you do manage to get the trim off the car and it looks reusable, make sure to lay something heavy on the top of them to keep'em from curling. You'll prolly end up with leftover adhesive on the car, make sure to scrape that off before applying 'professional' grade 3M trim adhesive. Although for best results and to save time, if you can afford it, buy new trim. :) Drab looking trim really takes away from a nice glossy paint job. Good Luck. Dave Farrer '90 V8Q From daveglu at hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 01:26:16 2001 From: daveglu at hotmail.com (David Glubrecht) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Fw: Broke exhaust valves and 4ktq's (fwd) Message-ID: I have no idea of the history of the car, but in a local Pull&Save lot I found a 5kt that had broken an exhaust valve. Someone else had pulled the head. What made it memorable was that clearly whoever was driving the car decided not to shut it off and continued to drive it. The piston had a large hole in it and the head was completely destroyed. I know the head will very likely be destroyed before you can shut it off, but this was severe. _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From Kwattro at aol.com Mon Mar 5 21:30:17 2001 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <95.7c3e181.27d5a5b9@aol.com> In a message dated 01-03-05 18:54:36 EST, you write: << One of them is not telling the truth. I'd put money on knowing which. >> Everyone in racing at that level doesn't want to let anyone else know about any potential problems, or want to mislead them as much as possible. In doing so, they diviert any attention from a real potential problem, or give the crew time to figure out if it really is a potential problem. I think that you'll find similar misguidance in all forms of racing (for example, when the guys jump out of poor-handleing, sloppy race cars and pronounce them as great drives...)... Later! Carter J Kwattro@aol.com From dryridgedesign at home.com Mon Mar 5 21:39:21 2001 From: dryridgedesign at home.com (Dry Ridge Design) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Lifter noise-Replacement Message-ID: There was some previous discussion about lifter noise in the I-5. Many people suggested additives such as Wynn's, MMO, etc. I currently have the noise on cold mornings until I reach a good operating temp and very intermittently at other times. Question 1, to the list - Has anyone had problems caused by using an additive? I will probably try this along with a few rapid interval oil changes ( I just acquired this 4Ksq). If this doesn't work i will have the lifters replaced. Question 2 - What kind of costs (from my mechanic can I expect to have the lifters replaced/noise cured? BTW, this is a GREAT car! But I don't have to tell anyone here that. Any info is appreciated. Stefan Weir 85 4Ksq 82 diesel vdub Westy (I bought the Audi b/c I needed something that went from 0-60 in less than 40 seconds) From quattro_toronto at hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 21:41:45 2001 From: quattro_toronto at hotmail.com (quattro toronto) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: "SPECIAL" MR2 tow car in IOWA... WILD! (long) Message-ID: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=566827966 TRI JET TURBINE POWERED TOYOTA MR2 Item #566827966 Everything Else:Aviation:Aircraft and Engines Currently $2,300.00 (reserve not yet met) First bid $2,300.00 Quantity 1 # of bids 0 bid history Time left 9 days, 2 hours + Location IOWA Country/Region USA/Los Angeles Started Mar-04-01 21:11:30 PST mail this auction to a friend Ends Mar-14-01 21:11:30 PST watch this item Seller (Rating) sheldahl77@aol.com (36) view comments in seller's Feedback Profile | view seller's other auctions | ask seller a question High bid -- eBay Online Payments by Billpoint Payment Visa/MasterCard, Money Order/Cashiers Checks, See item description for payment methods accepted Shipping Will ship to United States only, See item description for shipping charges Update item Seller: If this item has received no bids, you may revise it. Seller assumes all responsibility for listing this item. You should contact the seller to resolve any questions before bidding. Auction currency is U.S. dollars ($) unless otherwise noted. Description OH BOY!!!! I AM GONNA HAVE TO WRITE A LONG LIABILITY WAIVER TO SELL THIS ONE!!!!!!!! YOU DONT HAVE TO BE CRAZY TO BUY THIS, BUT IT WILL HELP. UNSAFE @ ANY SPEED!!!!!!!!!! BUT SOOOO MUCH FUN!!!! THIS IS A 1985 TOYOTA MR2 WITH THREE, THATS RIGHT THREE!!!!! TURBOJETS POWERING IT. I HAVE HAD THE CAR TO 85 MPH AND IN ORDER TO TAKE IT ANY FASTER IT NEEDS HIGH SPEED TIRES, AND BY THE WAY IT WILL GO A LOT FASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! UNDER THE HOOD [FRONT] IS A 5 HP HONDA ENGINE THAT DRIVES AN OIL PUMP FOR THE BEARINGS OF THE TURBOS AND A FUEL PUMP THAT SUPPLIES JET A TO THE COMBUSTORS @ 450 PSI, ADDITIONALLY THE ENGINE DRIVES AN ALTERNATOR FOR THE 12 VOLT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. INTERIOR OF THE CAR CONTAINS THE VARIOUS FUEL CONTROLS OIL TEMP, VOLTMETER, OIL PRESSURE, FUEL PRESSURE GUAGES AND THREE [1 FOR EACH TURBO] PYROMETERS. A DC TO AC INVERTER IS INSTALLED TO DRIVE A NEON TRANSFORMER USED TO SUPPLY IGNITION TO THE COMBUSTORS. FUEL QUANITY IS 21 US GALLONS OF JET-A AND OIL CAPACITY IS 12 US QTS TURBOS ARE STARTED WITH A LEAF BLOWER AND YOU ARE OFF AND RUNNING, IDLE RPM IS PROX 25,000 RPM AND FULL SPEED IS ESTIMATED @ 75,000 RPM, TOTAL THRUST @ FULL SPEED IS PROX 190 LB. ITS FAST!!!!!!!!!!!! HEARING PROTECTION IS RECOMENDED BEHIND THE CAR BUT DRIVING IT IS VERY QUIET AND SMOOTH. IT IS SOOOOOOOOOOOOOO MUCH FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CLEAR TITLE AND REGISTERED IN IOWA, IT IS PROBABLY STREET LEGAL EXCEPT FOR THIS LITTLE EXCESSIVE NOISE ISSUE, TURN SIGNALS, WINDSHEILD WIPERS ETC. TOBAR IS INCLUDED, AND IT TOWS VERY SMOOTHLY, <<<<<<<<<<<------------ WILL GIVE HANDS ON INSTRUCTION TO THE SUCCESSFUL BIDDER WHEN PICKING UP THE MR2. SUCCESSFUL BIDDER AGREES TO SIGN A LIABILITY WAIVER HOLDING SELLER HARMLESS SHOULD THE PURCHASER DO SOMETHING ULTRA STUPID WITH MY LITTLE CAR!!!!!!!! SERIOUS BUYERS PLEASE EMAIL ME WITH ANY QUESTIONS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mar-05-01 at 09:38:07 PST, seller added the following information: WEIGHT: FROM THE FACTORY THIS CAR WEIGHED PROX 2350 LB THE ENGINE WAS CAST IRON AND LOCATED MIDPOINT IN THE CAR AFTER STRIPPING THE DRIVE TRAIN AND OTHER HEAVY ITEMS I CALCULATE THE CAR WEIGHED 1500 LB, AFTER ADDING THE TURBINES AND SUPPORT EQUIPTMENT THE CAR WEIGHS PROX 2100 LB.. OH BY THE WAY THE GPS UNIT MOUNTED ON TOP OF THE DASH[INTERIOR PIC] IS NOT INCLUDED. Click on a picture below to enlarge Free Honesty Counters, Listing Tools from Andale. Bidding TRI JET TURBINE POWERED TOYOTA MR2 Item #566827966 Opening bid: $2,300.00 (reserve not yet met) Your maximum bid: (Minimum bid: $2,300.00) eBay will bid incrementally on your behalf up to your maximum bid, which is kept secret from other eBay users. The eBay term for this is proxy bidding. Your bid is a contract - Place a bid only if you're serious about buying the item. If you are the winning bidder, you will enter into a legally binding contract to purchase the item from the seller. How to Bid 1. Register to bid - if you haven't already. It's free! 2. Learn about this seller - read feedback comments left by others. 3. Know the details - read the item description and payment & shipping terms closely. 4. If you have questions - contact the seller sheldahl77@aol.com before you bid. 5. Place your bid! eBay purchases are insured. Top Questions From This Page • How do I place a proxy bid? It looks like I can only place a maximum bid. • Why doesn't my bid show up? • What does "reserve not yet met" mean? • How can I change something or cancel my listing completely? • Why isn't my picture showing up? • As a seller, how can I cancel an unwanted bid? • Why does my email address appear when I have a User ID? • How do I register? • Questions and answers related to Honesty Counter -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Announcements | Register | SafeHarbor (Rules & Safety) | Feedback Forum | About eBay Copyright © 1995-2001 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the eBay User Agreement and Privacy Policy. _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From knotnook at traverse.com Mon Mar 5 21:58:17 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs In-Reply-To: <3AA46733.57FA4256@mediaone.net> References: <4.2.0.58.20010305175736.00aeb768@pop.snet.net> <3AA44B00.5FD75857@mediaone.net> <3AA42A27.58F9FA1C@pcrealm.net> Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010305215449.00b07220@traverse.com> After F. Smith suggested: Ok,you moderate. 8-] Huw Powell wrote: >I not moderate, I radical ;-p > >-- And he has the colors to prove it. From powellae at home.com Mon Mar 5 19:56:23 2001 From: powellae at home.com (Al Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages Message-ID: <01C0A5AE.5BA052A0.powellae@home.com> I note that many posts are sent to the group in HTML format, which causes a ton of extra garbage (a complete copy of the message with HTML codes) to appear with the post. In the hopes that some of my list-friends will be encouraged to TURN THE HTML OFF, I offer this post, which was sent to a friend recently. It is intended to help find the commands in email programs which will turn off the HTML encoding. I should note that sending HTML-encoded emails to friends is often not such a big deal, but sending anything but plain text to a listserv (like the A-list) is a breach of etiquette. It does not make one popular. Here's an attempt at giving some guidance to those who don't know how to set their email program to send messages in plain text...... The encoding command is usually under "Tools" and "Options" (in MS Outlook or Outlook Express). After you get Options, open, look under the tabs with names like "Internet Email" or "Sending" or such. Hopefully it will turn up. There are variations depending on the version of the program you use. If you're using Pegasus Mail or Netscape, the command is probably under "Edit" and "Preferences"...then look under "Mail & Newsgroups" and "Formatting" (those are specific to Netscape version 4.7). Select "Use plain text editor..." and your problems are solved. One of these two paths is common to most email programs. Some use the Tools/Options approach and some use the Edit/Preferences approach. From there in, there are differences in labeling depending on the program and the version. Another possibility is to use the Help/Contents/Index menu in your email program and look for such terms as "plain text". That might get you to the right place. The goal is to disable HTML encoding and send emails in plain text. While this is not such a problem sending emails to individuals, sending HTML to listservs is a no-no. Good luck. ************************************ Al Powell Fort Collins, CO powellae@home.com cougfan1@gocougs.wsu.edu ************************************ From threequinns at hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 19:06:28 2001 From: threequinns at hotmail.com (Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5-speed TT? Message-ID: Hi, Was there ever a TT with a 5-speed? Or. Is there another Audi with a shift knob with an aluminum ring? I really like the TT knob, but do not want the 6-speed pattern on it. Pat '95 90q Lake Tahoe, CA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From robert at s-cars.org Mon Mar 5 22:12:48 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages In-Reply-To: <01C0A5AE.5BA052A0.powellae@home.com> Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010305220533.021f2890@mail.charter.net> Al suggests methods for turning off HTML. Eudora Pro also allows turning off HTML formatting. Click on Tools and then Options. Then high light Styled Text and select Send plain text only. This will turn off HTML. You can also turn off MIME encoding for attachments. Again, Tools - options, attachments. Check Put text attachments in the body of message. This will effectively turn off mime encoding. Unfortunately, the header generated to go with your message does not reflect this choice even though there is no MIME in the message. This prevents me from sending mail to Phil who has a filter set up to reject MIME mail. At 07:56 PM 3/5/01 -0700, Al Powell wrote: >I note that many posts are sent to the group in HTML format, which >causes a ton of extra garbage (a complete copy of the message with >HTML codes) to appear with the post. In the hopes that some of my >list-friends will be encouraged to TURN THE HTML OFF, I offer this >post, which was sent to a friend recently. It is intended to help >find the commands in email programs which will turn off the HTML >encoding. > >I should note that sending HTML-encoded emails to friends is often >not such a big deal, but sending anything but plain text to a >listserv (like the A-list) is a breach of etiquette. It does not >make one popular. > >Here's an attempt at giving some guidance to those who don't know how >to set their email program to send messages in plain text...... > >The encoding command is usually under "Tools" and "Options" (in MS >Outlook or Outlook Express). After you get Options, open, look under >the tabs with names like "Internet Email" or "Sending" or such. > Hopefully it will turn up. There are variations depending on the >version of the program you use. > >If you're using Pegasus Mail or Netscape, the command is probably >under "Edit" and "Preferences"...then look under "Mail & Newsgroups" >and "Formatting" (those are specific to Netscape version 4.7). > Select "Use plain text editor..." and your problems are solved. > >One of these two paths is common to most email programs. Some use >the Tools/Options approach and some use the Edit/Preferences >approach. From there in, there are differences in labeling depending >on the program and the version. > >Another possibility is to use the Help/Contents/Index menu in your >email program and look for such terms as "plain text". That might >get you to the right place. The goal is to disable HTML encoding and >send emails in plain text. While this is not such a problem sending >emails to individuals, sending HTML to listservs is a no-no. > >Good luck. > >************************************ >Al Powell >Fort Collins, CO >powellae@home.com >cougfan1@gocougs.wsu.edu >************************************ Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From adhand at san.rr.com Mon Mar 5 19:19:22 2001 From: adhand at san.rr.com (Anand Dhanda) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5-speed TT? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: yup, all 180HP TT's are 5-speeds - Anand Dhanda President, Southern California Audi Club Anand@5vTurbo.net www.SoCalAudiClub.com '00 A4 1.8TQMSx Silver/Onyx Modded '91 200tqm In Search Of -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:06 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: 5-speed TT? Hi, Was there ever a TT with a 5-speed? Or. Is there another Audi with a shift knob with an aluminum ring? I really like the TT knob, but do not want the 6-speed pattern on it. Pat '95 90q Lake Tahoe, CA _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From audi at mediaone.net Mon Mar 5 22:45:52 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5-speed TT? References: Message-ID: <3AA487A0.377D2537@mediaone.net> > Was there ever a TT with a 5-speed? > Or. > Is there another Audi with a shift knob with an aluminum ring? > I really like the TT knob, but do not want the 6-speed pattern on it. I'd settle for the 6 speed pattern *under* it! -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From j_wood at bigfoot.com Mon Mar 5 22:58:12 2001 From: j_wood at bigfoot.com (Jeff Wood) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? References: <60.c07cc7a.27cf1f3a@aol.com> Message-ID: <01d101c0a5f1$ab4e2320$0dc80b0a@atl.bellsouth.net> Type www.wiseco.com. ----- Original Message ----- From: JShadzi@aol.com To: quattro@audifans.com Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 10:42 PM Subject: Machining Piston to lower compression? Anyone familiar with doing this? Know how to calculate it or someone who can? I have a high compression motor I want to turbo charge, and want to lower the compression this way..it is an 82.5mm bore, so no low compression pistons are available. Javad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010305/c6de8d36/attachment.htm From kyle at clover.net Mon Mar 5 23:13:43 2001 From: kyle at clover.net (Kyle D. Ledford) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Family Album Message-ID: Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the Family Album... I am looking for both the US and Euro Versions. If someone can point me to the right site I can make them available for others.. Kyle 1990 90 CQ From amsk at lehigh.edu Tue Mar 6 00:10:58 2001 From: amsk at lehigh.edu (Aaron Sherrick) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: After careful consideration I've decided to pass on the car. The timing isn't ideal for me, but if I thought the car was a real deal, then I'd take the plunge. I REALLY appreciate everyone's input on this matter. Thank you all. Aaron '86 4kq From Forbye4 at aol.com Tue Mar 6 00:21:51 2001 From: Forbye4 at aol.com (Forbye4@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #1160 - 16 msgs Message-ID: I have a cool 1990 20V quattro, 152,000 on it And it's for sale I'm going to a TT and I need to give this one to a good house/owner email me at ForBye4@ aol..com if interested in It's a nice ride Mike From threequinns at hotmail.com Mon Mar 5 21:45:00 2001 From: threequinns at hotmail.com (Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Was 5-speed TT Message-ID: O.K. Thank you. Now, does anyone have the part number for the 5-speed shift knob from a 180HP TT? Pat _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From audi at mediaone.net Tue Mar 6 01:02:32 2001 From: audi at mediaone.net (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Was 5-speed TT References: Message-ID: <3AA4A7A8.13FF5C51@mediaone.net> 8N0 711 141 C 05A (black) 8N0 711 141 C 27F (red) "Pat, Andrea & Theo Quinn" wrote: > > O.K. > > Thank you. Now, does anyone have the part number for the 5-speed shift knob > from a 180HP TT? > > Pat > _________________________________________________________________ > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 01:43:06 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? Message-ID: <000701c0a608$b4305730$1100a8c0@JATER> Just on a whim, do any of you know what this is? http://www.geocities.com/audiurq/85urq.html Rumours abound but the facts are nowhere to be found. It's a small world and I bet someone out there knows what this is! TIA - Cheers! Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 02:00:53 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000901c0a60b$2fec24b0$1100a8c0@JATER> <> > >It obviously was a dead radio, because that's what Flavio said in his > >pit wall interview: "We couldn't hear Michael and asked him to tap > >his helmet if he could hear us." > > > >One of them is not telling the truth. I'd put money on > >knowing which. > > > >-- > > Phil > > Nah, shoeface wouldn't tell a fibio! He was just saying to the other racers "Look... I restrict my air intake to give you a chance, come-on give me a race... ha! ha! just kidding - bye bye!" Pretty disgusted with F1 racing in general... Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ From ti at amb.org Mon Mar 5 23:08:50 2001 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? In-Reply-To: <000701c0a608$b4305730$1100a8c0@JATER> from "Peter Berrevoets" at Mar 06, 2001 01:43:06 AM Message-ID: <200103060708.HAA29605@amb.org> Peter Berrevoets writes: > Just on a whim, do any of you know what this is? > http://www.geocities.com/audiurq/85urq.html > Rumours abound but the facts are nowhere to be found. > It's a small world and I bet someone out there knows what this is! It's an 85 UrQuattro with some non-stock (ultra wide) flared fenders and H4-only Euro headlights. In case you don't know what an "UrQuattro" is, its official designation is "Audi Quattro" and it's *the* first quattro model that started the high performance AWD revolution. Introduced at the 1980 Geneva auto show, it stunned the world and began a string of winning streak at world rally events as well as rallies and hillclimbs in the US. The rest is history. Shining history. -Ti 01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro 84 5000S 2.1 turbo 80 4000 2.0 96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ /// From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 02:25:52 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? In-Reply-To: <5.0.1.4.2.20010306010108.00aadbb0@mail.flashmail.com> Message-ID: <000b01c0a60e$ad4f4420$1100a8c0@JATER> Whoa!! > >Subject: Re: Does anyone know anything about this car? you didn't answer this one... ;) > >ok.. > >quick question.. Singular? as in one? > >i have the availability to likely purchase a used 2.3 for a > >project i have in > >mind... can you get a number off the block? as in which 2.3 litre is it? NF? > >2.3 w/MC head.. > >this will work? Potentially see previous question to question > >oil squirters.. > >just need to drill for oil lines correct? Does the idea of drilling into a perfectly good engine block sound attracctive to you? Not to me, I think there are other alternatives. > >sounds like time for a custom oil cooler...... or a used on from a 5k or 200 > >i know of a 2.5motor with a MC head... rumour or first hand knowledge - a good machinist mechanic can do almost anything, that doesn't mean it should be done, or was done. The 2.5 is a turbo diesel if I'm not mistaken - from a vanagon - I'll look that up later > >and i'm assuming the MC head will bolt up to a 2.3.. just need to lower the CR? > >or maybe not :) Never use absolutes in a sentence (oops!) and never assume. ;) > >any suggestions? BTDT's? Find an MC complete that maybe just needs a rebuild, they're around... Martin Pajak and others with UrQs, 4kqs and CGTs have saved much grief and aggravation by grabbing an MC with ECU and wiring harness - believe me, the other way - scratch build - will drive you insane! > >TIA! Your welcome! > >rich > >'86 4kq Martin, me and a bunch of others went ice-racing on saturday - Martin came in second place in his 4kq, he lost to a StageII+ modified S6 (285hp+) driven by an ex-ice racer, was followed by a StageII modified S4, and then me in my slightly modded 200TQ, followed by another couple of S4s and others. That 4kq is a nice handling machine and would do nicely with an MC motor. Do yourself a favour and find one complete as mentioned above. Then you will have money and sanity left over to do some real performance mods on it and the car. Just my $.02 cdn. HTH Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 02:32:57 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? In-Reply-To: <200103060708.HAA29605@amb.org> Message-ID: <000c01c0a60f$ab13dda0$1100a8c0@JATER> Yes Ti, I know what it is - generically speaking - I even read the text that went with the pictures, and the owner lives less than a block away from me. This car has extremely well done body-work that looks like an OEM job. Maybe Audisport? The question was does anyone personally know the history of this particular car - or perchance recognize it from somewhere or other. The history of the car itself is in question as the owner - Mike - doesn't know it other than what was written on the page linked above. Yeesh! I do know what an ur-Quattro is - do you know what this particular ur-Quattro is? Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Ti Kan [mailto:ti@amb.org] > >Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 2:09 AM > >To: Peter Berrevoets > >Cc: "1 Quattro List (E-mail)" > >Subject: Re: Does anyone know anything about this car? > > > > > >Peter Berrevoets writes: > >> Just on a whim, do any of you know what this is? > >> http://www.geocities.com/audiurq/85urq.html > >> Rumours abound but the facts are nowhere to be found. > >> It's a small world and I bet someone out there knows what this is! > > > >It's an 85 UrQuattro with some non-stock (ultra wide) flared fenders > >and H4-only Euro headlights. > > > >In case you don't know what an "UrQuattro" is, its official > >designation > >is "Audi Quattro" and it's *the* first quattro model that started the > >high performance AWD revolution. Introduced at the 1980 > >Geneva auto show, > >it stunned the world and began a string of winning streak at > >world rally > >events as well as rallies and hillclimbs in the US. The > >rest is history. > >Shining history. > > > >-Ti > >01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro > >84 5000S 2.1 turbo > >80 4000 2.0 > >96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) > >-- > > /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik > > /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA > > /// ti@amb.org > > ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ > >/// > > > > From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 02:41:11 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: audiguy email probs In-Reply-To: <3AA42A27.58F9FA1C@pcrealm.net> Message-ID: <000f01c0a610$d15b8f20$1100a8c0@JATER> SUBLIST!!! just kidding ;) > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of Frederick Smith > >Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:07 PM > >To: one@humanspeakers.com > >Cc: quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: Re: audiguy email probs > > > > > >Ok,you moderate. 8-] > > From ti at amb.org Mon Mar 5 23:41:37 2001 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? In-Reply-To: <000c01c0a60f$ab13dda0$1100a8c0@JATER> from "Peter Berrevoets" at Mar 06, 2001 02:32:57 AM Message-ID: <200103060741.HAA29784@amb.org> Peter Berrevoets writes: > Yes Ti, I know what it is - generically speaking - I even read the text that > went with the pictures, and the owner lives less than a block away from me. OK, cool. I hope my answer is educational for some others, as the question "what's an urQ?" comes up periodically. > This car has extremely well done body-work that looks like an OEM job. Maybe > Audisport? I doubt it. Audi Sport's wide works body panels (as used on the 2nd generation rally cars) aren't even that wide. Also, the works panels have some vents ahead of the rear wheel well. I don't know the specific history of the car, but the bodywork is a one-off custom job for sure. The front and rear bumper valances are US-spec units, but modified to fit with the wide flares. Personally, I think those flares are too wide. They dominate the looks of the car and distracts from the lines. -Ti 01 S4 2.7 biturbo quattro 84 5000S 2.1 turbo 80 4000 2.0 96 A4 2.8 quattro (sold but not forgotten) -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Research Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.ibiblio.org/tkan/ /// From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 02:56:50 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 In-Reply-To: <000f01c0a598$78e290a0$702afea9@5kcstqsisna.com> Message-ID: <001001c0a613$00a09fd0$1100a8c0@JATER> I'd be inclined to do things in this order; 1) Make sure the distributor cap is securely fastened and in the correct position 2) make sure the two senders, I'm not sure if the 86 has one or two, on the joint between the right side of the engine block and the tranny bell housing are seated correctly and tightly. 3) make sure the distributor is lining up properly as per the bentley manuals - ie make sure static timing is set dead on. 4) make sure all electrical connections on the bulkhead to the above components are clean and securely snapped together 5) if no start still, check for cracked wires on the distributor hall sender 6) replace the hall sender in the distributor 7) if still no start - suspect ignition coil - replace. (this is an expensive part - exhaust all other possibilities first!! There is no way to test the coil for "good/bad") my $0.02 cdn HTH Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > >[mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > >Behalf Of Mark Rutherford > >Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:20 PM > >To: quattro@audifans.com > >Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 > > > > > >My car will not start. Pulled the codes got 2113, from SMJ > >I came up with > >Hall sender in distributor, Distributor alignment, faulty sender, > >Mis-located sensor & distributor. The problem also seems to > >be tempature > >related. No start when it is warm, but starts fine when > >cold. Any ideas > >where to look next. > > > >Thanks > >5kcstq@sisna.com > > > > > > > > > > From alexaudi at kki.net.pl Tue Mar 6 10:59:51 2001 From: alexaudi at kki.net.pl (Aleksander Mierzwa) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Outer CV joing removal Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010306105951.02c73840@kki.net.pl> Dear Audi friens, My 5KT is in need of RH outer CV joint replacement. Yesterday I tried to tackle the job, but run into a problem: the stupid circlip holding the joint to the shaft seemed to be stuck; it didn't want spread open wide enough for the joint to come off the shaft, no matter how hard I tried to persuade it with a BFH ;-) Finally, after yet another attempt to spread it open, one of the ends of the circlip broke off! So now it's much more difficult to spread it open, and did I mention it seemed to be stuck in the first place? So, does anyone have any ideas, or should look for a used halfshaft on the junkyard? -- Aleksander Mierzwa Warsaw, Poland 87 5KT From alexaudi at kki.net.pl Tue Mar 6 11:14:43 2001 From: alexaudi at kki.net.pl (Aleksander Mierzwa) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ In-Reply-To: <001a01c0a5d4$f3f45620$d97afea9@noone> References: <001601c0a5d1$2d19fe40$0c7db6c7@default> Message-ID: <3.0.5.32.20010306111443.02c76e80@kki.net.pl> At 19:32 01-03-05 -0500, TM wrote: >Although that's a neat idea, if your '91 200q is in good condition, >I hope you don't do it. Call me a purist, but it would be my wish that >as many of these cars be kept on the road as possible. I second that. I live in East Europe and I still remember the times when a car, ANY car and any West-made car in particular was considered a treasure, cared for and pampered till the end of the days. I'm having hard time accepting the fact that lot of otherwise good 5Ks end up in US junkyards merely because of broken slushboxes, the thought of destroying a perfect 200Q 20V just to get an engine for transplant is horrifying. -- Aleksander Mierzwa Warsaw, Poland 87 5KT From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Mar 6 12:17:10 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages Message-ID: > I should note that sending HTML-encoded emails to friends is often > not such a big deal, but sending anything but plain text to a > listserv (like the A-list) is a breach of etiquette. It does not > make one popular. It's worth noting that HTML, MIME, etc., are explicitly banned from Dan's lists. Around thirty people, however, regularly ignore Dan's request - including some regulars who I would normally expect to behave better. Dan is a low-enforcement 'police yourselves' kind of guy who seems to prefer keeping a low profile on these matters, making it all the more embarrassing when he finally is roused to comment. Mixed text/HTML posts are not only against the wishes of our host, they're anti-social, potentially dangerous, and deleted on arrival here. So if anyone's waiting for an answer from me - check your email settings. -- Phil From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Mar 6 12:17:14 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? Message-ID: > http://www.geocities.com/audiurq/85urq.html Just a caution that this page is almost pure pictures and takes an age to load on a slow link. Apart from that, it looks a pretty stock car with custom modifications to what look like stock Audi wings. I think someone's just done some metalwork. I note what looks like a factory-pattern cruise control - these are unknown in UK cars. The half-dozen cars I know with cruise controls are all early (1983/4) and use an after-market cable operated system. -- Phil From l.leung at juno.com Tue Mar 6 06:48:07 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: F1 Broadcasts (U.S.) 2001(N.A.C.) Message-ID: <20010306.072652.-135119.7.l.leung@juno.com> WItnessing an artist(e!) at work ain't enough, eh? I guess you could watch, eh, NASCAR for closer racing, .....or perhaps CART, which has had some of the closest racing and points battles yet, and its an OPEN wheel series. Besides, there are still kinooks whom drive for COMPETITVE teams in CART (unlike poor Jacques, I'm surprised at his loyalty, to think he could've been driving for Williams!). LL - NY On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 02:00:53 -0500 "Peter Berrevoets" writes: ><> > >> >It obviously was a dead radio, because that's what Flavio said in >his >> >pit wall interview: "We couldn't hear Michael and asked him to tap >> >his helmet if he could hear us." >> > >> >One of them is not telling the truth. I'd put money on >> >knowing which. >> > >> >-- >> > Phil >> > > >Nah, shoeface wouldn't tell a fibio! > >He was just saying to the other racers "Look... I restrict my air >intake to >give you a chance, come-on give me a race... ha! ha! just kidding - >bye >bye!" > >Pretty disgusted with F1 racing in general... > >Peter Berrevoets >1990 200TQ >Toronto, Canada >http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > > From l.leung at juno.com Tue Mar 6 06:58:53 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ Message-ID: <20010306.072652.-135119.9.l.leung@juno.com> Ditto. LL - NY On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:14:43 +0100 Aleksander Mierzwa writes: >At 19:32 01-03-05 -0500, TM wrote: > >>Although that's a neat idea, if your '91 200q is in good condition, >>I hope you don't do it. Call me a purist, but it would be my wish >that >>as many of these cars be kept on the road as possible. > >I second that. I live in East Europe and I still remember the times >when a >car, ANY car and any West-made car in particular was considered a >treasure, >cared for and pampered till the end of the days. I'm having hard time >accepting the fact that lot of otherwise good 5Ks end up in US >junkyards >merely because of broken slushboxes, the thought of destroying a >perfect >200Q 20V just to get an engine for transplant is horrifying. > >-- >Aleksander Mierzwa >Warsaw, Poland >87 5KT > From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Mar 6 12:46:19 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Mime [was Tyre (tire) pressures] Message-ID: >> What e-mail client are you using that lets you italicize the >> original message in your reply? I like the format! > Good question, it's Microsoft outlook Express for sure, tell me how > to find the version and I'll let you know. I just click on the I > square as in MS word, (hint, not very computer literate!) I was online with the Nokia's browser this morning and saw this - otherwise it would have been deleted before being read. I do most sincerely hope that the discussion proceeds from ignorance and not the gross discourtesy it seems to be. We are Dan's guests on these lists. As such, we are beholden to Dan and I believe (others may believe differently) that we should abide by his rules. Those rules are very clearly stated in simple English on the Audifans web site: "There is no cost for subscribing to the lists, but you must subscribe in order to post a message to the list. This is to prevent spamming from outside parties. Also, messages sent to the list must be in plain text format - no MIME, HTML, image or file attachments." See what it says? Even if you have your email client set to post plain ASCII, selecting some trivial snick-snack like italics, underlining, fonts, etc., will ALWAYS generate a MIME email taking four to five times more of Dan's bandwidth than an ASCII text message. If this proceeds from ignorance, it is discourteous. If it is done in spite of knowing the effects, it is quite breathtaking. You're in good (bad) company, though. This is a recent list of multi-part senders stopped by my system: DGraber460@aol.com HAMRENDAN@aol.com JShadzi@aol.com JanDebL@aol.com JordanVw@aol.com KAMMLER1@aol.com audidudi@mindspring.com julian.stafford@virgin.net kbogach@home.com knotnook@traverse.com quattro@europa.com rmyers@oak.total-web.net smarinello@newpark.com zed123@telusplanet.net All are guilty of the same discourtesy to Dan in ignoring the conditions of use of the lists - clearly posted on the Audifans web sight. Maybe quite a few people need Reading Comprehension 101. And maybe some of the people wasting Dan's bandwidth like this should pony up a donation in recompense. -- Phil From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Mar 6 08:10:32 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages Message-ID: Phil, Could you identify those users either privately or here on the list? I had no idea i was posting in MIME/HTML until a few weeks ago when you talked about who you had blocked because they were not posting in text. I then changed my format. I think a good deal of the people that are doing it are doing it without knowing they are. Its a simple change depending on the email program they are using and I'm sure everyone would like everyone to get messages from each other. Rob -----Original Message----- From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk [mailto:isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk] Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:00 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages > I should note that sending HTML-encoded emails to friends is often > not such a big deal, but sending anything but plain text to a > listserv (like the A-list) is a breach of etiquette. It does not > make one popular. It's worth noting that HTML, MIME, etc., are explicitly banned from Dan's lists. Around thirty people, however, regularly ignore Dan's request - including some regulars who I would normally expect to behave better. Dan is a low-enforcement 'police yourselves' kind of guy who seems to prefer keeping a low profile on these matters, making it all the more embarrassing when he finally is roused to comment. Mixed text/HTML posts are not only against the wishes of our host, they're anti-social, potentially dangerous, and deleted on arrival here. So if anyone's waiting for an answer from me - check your email settings. -- Phil From amsk at lehigh.edu Tue Mar 6 08:32:22 2001 From: amsk at lehigh.edu (Aaron Sherrick) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5kt donor for $495 Message-ID: After careful consideration I've decided to pass on the car. The timing isn't ideal for me, but if I thought the car was a real deal, then I'd take the plunge. I REALLY appreciate everyone's input on this matter. Thank you all. Aaron '86 4kq From peter.a.sperry at syntegra.com Tue Mar 6 08:03:12 2001 From: peter.a.sperry at syntegra.com (Sperry, Peter A -Syntegra US) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: W8 Engine Information Message-ID: <41C19CA3B7CBD411B59200508B6CBBFF1E775C@AH-Exchange-01.arh.cdc.com> Maybe I'm out of the loop, but I keep hearing about the "W8" engine from VW/Audi, but I can't find anything on either of their websites. What is the W8 and where can I get more info (URL's etc.) on this engine? Peter '88 5KSQ '90 90Q20v -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/e0419cfb/attachment.htm From smisko at mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 09:03:30 2001 From: smisko at mindspring.com (Dan Smisko) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: UrS4 Hydraulic Pump (Line) O-Rings Message-ID: <3AA4EE32.A10339D@mindspring.com> Does anybody have the part numbers for these things? I'm putting in a rebuilt pump, and need new o-rings for the lines. The ones I got are too small. Apparently I can't decipher ETKA. Thanks. Dan Smisko 1992 S4 smisko@mindspring.com From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 14:03:50 2001 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 5KTQ Leak? Message-ID: With all of the snow we've had the last 2 days, leaks are easy to spot. I moved the 5KTQ and noticed a chartreuse spot. Normally would think Pentosin, but spots were located to coincide with front and rear diff locations. I noticed the same color leak from wifes 99 Jetta, so I'm thinking no Pentosin but no other clue. Ideas? Thanks Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From robert at s-cars.org Tue Mar 6 09:13:29 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Mime [was Tyre (tire) pressures] In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010306085728.0221aec0@mail.charter.net> Phil, You identify me as a frequent MIME offender (under the guise of an older address ) My mail client, Eudora Pro 5.0.2 is MIME compliant but I have it set to send plain text and to include text attachments as text in the body of the message. I do not send jpegs, etc., to the list - any of the lists - I'm on. I do not send styled text or any of the other activities which require or make use of MIME. I do not italicize. I do not use underlining or color or whatever else might generate MIME codes. I use simple old fashioned plain ASCII text. Unfortunately, the header which is generated somewhere during this process says: MIME-Version: 1.0 and a bit later in the header: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="=======2D4E6CAA=======" In fact, Phil, I have tested my mailer by forwarding (to myself) posts I have received from others with MIME encoding. When I get them back it is obvious that the MIME content has been stripped out leaving simple plain text documents. There appears nothing else remaining for me to do by which I can eliminate the unfortunate header wording which you are apparently catching in your filter. I have tried numerous times to send you private mails. Virtually never have I received a reply. At first I felt that you were, in effect, telling me that I wasn't good enough (or something) to deserve the courtesy of a reply. I have since realized that my messages to you were simply being discarded before you ever even saw them. Because of this I fully expect not to hear directly from you on this matter this time either. I can do nothing more at this end to eliminate the "MIME 1.0" line in the headers. Perhaps, Phil, you can refine your filter. BTW, I passed Reading Comprehension 101 many, many years ago. > >> What e-mail client are you using that lets you italicize the > >> original message in your reply? I like the format! > > > Good question, it's Microsoft outlook Express for sure, tell me how > > to find the version and I'll let you know. I just click on the I > > square as in MS word, (hint, not very computer literate!) > >I was online with the Nokia's browser this morning and saw this - >otherwise it would have been deleted before being read. > >I do most sincerely hope that the discussion proceeds from ignorance and >not the gross discourtesy it seems to be. > >We are Dan's guests on these lists. As such, we are beholden to Dan and >I believe (others may believe differently) that we should abide by his >rules. Those rules are very clearly stated in simple English on the >Audifans web site: > > "There is no cost for subscribing to the lists, but you > must subscribe in order to post a message to the list. > This is to prevent spamming from outside parties. > Also, messages sent to the list must be in plain text > format - no MIME, HTML, image or file attachments." > >See what it says? Even if you have your email client set to post plain >ASCII, selecting some trivial snick-snack like italics, underlining, >fonts, etc., will ALWAYS generate a MIME email taking four to five times >more of Dan's bandwidth than an ASCII text message. > >If this proceeds from ignorance, it is discourteous. If it is done in >spite of knowing the effects, it is quite breathtaking. You're in good >(bad) company, though. This is a recent list of multi-part senders >stopped by my system: > > DGraber460@aol.com > HAMRENDAN@aol.com > JShadzi@aol.com > JanDebL@aol.com > JordanVw@aol.com > KAMMLER1@aol.com > audidudi@mindspring.com > julian.stafford@virgin.net > kbogach@home.com > knotnook@traverse.com > quattro@europa.com > rmyers@oak.total-web.net > smarinello@newpark.com > zed123@telusplanet.net > >All are guilty of the same discourtesy to Dan in ignoring the conditions >of use of the lists - clearly posted on the Audifans web sight. > >Maybe quite a few people need Reading Comprehension 101. > >And maybe some of the people wasting Dan's bandwidth like this should >pony up a donation in recompense. > >-- > Phil Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From robert at s-cars.org Tue Mar 6 09:18:07 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010306091428.0221c3b0@mail.charter.net> Bob, I expanded your post headers and copied them and your message below. Notice that directly above the subject line appears that same MIME 1.0 statement that appears to be causing the entire trouble for Phil. It looks like us birds of a feather are flocking together. At 08:10 AM 3/6/01 -0500, you wrote: >Phil, > >Could you identify those users either privately or here on the list? I had >no idea i was posting in MIME/HTML until a few weeks ago when you talked >about who you had blocked because they were not posting in text. I then >changed my format. I think a good deal of the people that are doing it are >doing it without knowing they are. Its a simple change depending on the >email program they are using and I'm sure everyone would like everyone to >get messages from each other. ____ Return-Path: Received: from mail2.intermedia.net ([206.40.48.152] verified) by front003.cluster1.charter.net (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 3.4b8) with ESMTP id 17831520 for rmyers1@charter.net; Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:13:37 -0500 X-Resent-To-Address: rmyers1@charter.net X-Resent-From-Address: robert@s-cars.org X-Resent-Message: X-Resent-At: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 05:13:58 -0800 Received: from audifans.com (unverified [216.46.70.136]) by mail2.intermedia.net (Rockliffe SMTPRA 4.5.4) with ESMTP id for ; Tue, 6 Mar 2001 05:13:57 -0800 Received: from sdsl-216-46-70-136.dsl.nyc.megapath.net (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by audifans.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA08897; Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:09:17 -0500 (EST) Received: from hcextgw01 (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by audifans.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id IAA08870 for ; Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:08:37 -0500 (EST) Received: from hcmemavgw01.ummhc.org ([10.72.28.8]) by hcextgw01 (8.8.8+Sun/8.8.8) with SMTP id IAA29402; Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:08:33 -0500 (EST) Received: from 10.72.8.7 by hcmemavgw01.ummhc.org (InterScan E-Mail VirusWall NT); Tue, 06 Mar 2001 08:10:34 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) Received: by hcmemexch02.ummhc.org with Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) id ; Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:10:34 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Beatty, Robert" To: "'quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk'" , quattro@audifans.com Subject: RE: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2653.19) Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Sender: quattro-admin@audifans.com Errors-To: quattro-admin@audifans.com X-BeenThere: quattro@audifans.com X-Mailman-Version: 2.0beta6 Precedence: bulk List-Help: List-Post: List-Subscribe: , List-Id: The main audifans.com quattro list List-Unsubscribe: , List-Archive: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/ Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:10:32 -0500 Phil, Could you identify those users either privately or here on the list? I had no idea i was posting in MIME/HTML until a few weeks ago when you talked about who you had blocked because they were not posting in text. I then changed my format. I think a good deal of the people that are doing it are doing it without knowing they are. Its a simple change depending on the email program they are using and I'm sure everyone would like everyone to get messages from each other. Rob -----Original Message----- From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk [mailto:isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk] Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:00 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages > I should note that sending HTML-encoded emails to friends is often > not such a big deal, but sending anything but plain text to a > listserv (like the A-list) is a breach of etiquette. It does not > make one popular. It's worth noting that HTML, MIME, etc., are explicitly banned from Dan's lists. Around thirty people, however, regularly ignore Dan's request - including some regulars who I would normally expect to behave better. Dan is a low-enforcement 'police yourselves' kind of guy who seems to prefer keeping a low profile on these matters, making it all the more embarrassing when he finally is roused to comment. Mixed text/HTML posts are not only against the wishes of our host, they're anti-social, potentially dangerous, and deleted on arrival here. So if anyone's waiting for an answer from me - check your email settings. -- Phil Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From RyanWeath at aol.com Tue Mar 6 09:46:05 2001 From: RyanWeath at aol.com (RyanWeath@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: XPOSTED: where to get custom wheel centercaps made? Message-ID: <78.1169fd38.27d6522d@aol.com> I know that several listers have done this - where can I get custom made (want to do a 4-rings logo) centercaps for my aftermarket wheels? -Ryan '91 CQ From tbliss at mestek.com Tue Mar 6 10:16:53 2001 From: tbliss at mestek.com (Theron J. Bliss) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Audi's for sale Message-ID: <3AA4FF65.58EAA9D7@mestek.com> Just a heads up. I saw some Audi's for sale in the local paper (Massachusetts) and thought I'd pass it along. These are all at dealers. I almost pissed my pants when I found a 1998 A6 Quattro for $9,500, but figured it was a misprint. Sure enough. It was sold, but for $24,900. Anyway, here are some of them: 1993 100 SC Quattro Avant Pearl, AT, 2.8, 140k, AC, PW, PDL, P seats, moon roof, leather $10,795 1987 1/2?? Coupe GT White, 5-speed, AC, PW, PDL, roof, CD, Leather $3,400 1990 Coupe Quattro Red, 5-speed, all the options $8,000 (2 in stock) 1991 100 Quattro (3 in stock) 1998 A6 Quattro Black, leather, tiptronic $22,500 1997 A8 3.7 Black $21,900 As usual, no affiliation, just thought someone might like the heads up. -Theron From DGraber460 at aol.com Tue Mar 6 10:29:16 2001 From: DGraber460 at aol.com (DGraber460@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: HTML posts Message-ID: I plead ignorance, and knowing that is no excuse, I must say I honestly have tried every time this subject has been brought up, to check my settings, obviously to no avail. I apologize profusely to all on the list! Every post has dealt with Microsoft Exchange, etc., not AOL. I have (I thought) checked and set all the options AOL allows a non IT professional. Could someone off-list educate me on what I'm missing? My feelings of remorse are compounded by the overwhelming sense of being a techno moron. I'm terribly sorry. Dan will be compensated. Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/88c29434/attachment.htm From Kwattro at aol.com Tue Mar 6 10:28:39 2001 From: Kwattro at aol.com (Kwattro@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Does anyone know anything about this car? Message-ID: <3e.84e49fb.27d65c27@aol.com> In a message dated 01-03-06 02:41:48 EST, you write: << Yeesh! I do know what an ur-Quattro is - do you know what this particular ur-Quattro is? >> Wasn't it one of Neal Pert (sp? - from Rush)'s Ur-Q's? If so, he had a lot of money, and probably could have done anything to the car... Later! Carter From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Tue Mar 6 16:31:46 2001 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.20010306111443.02c76e80@kki.net.pl> References: <001601c0a5d1$2d19fe40$0c7db6c7@default> <001a01c0a5d4$f3f45620$d97afea9@noone> <3.0.5.32.20010306111443.02c76e80@kki.net.pl> Message-ID: On Tue, 06 Mar 2001 11:14:43 +0100, you wrote: >I second that. I live in East Europe and I still remember the times when a >car, ANY car and any West-made car in particular was considered a treasure, >cared for and pampered till the end of the days. I'm having hard time >accepting the fact that lot of otherwise good 5Ks end up in US junkyards >merely because of broken slushboxes, the thought of destroying a perfect >200Q 20V just to get an engine for transplant is horrifying. Me too. Here in Norway, while we are in Nothern/Western Europe, the cars are so expensive that unless totally wrecked, they usually don't end up in the junkyards before they approach 20 years of age.. Finding a type 44 in a junkyard is very hard, the ones that you can find is either totalled in a crash so bad that almost not a single item survived, or already slaughtered by someone else. In addition, most of them are the base model with 4-cylinder 90 hp engine and 4-speed manual.. -- Regards, ES From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Mar 6 15:35:31 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: What's the difference? Message-ID: > Could you identify those users either privately or here on the list? I've done so both privately and on the list. It seems to have no effect on many of them. Two posts, as received. One is three times the size of the other - if Dan is sending out 1,800 copies of each, he has to fund (out of his own pocket) 8MB more bandwidth for the second one over the first: MAIL02A0.IN C:\NETMAIL\BUFFER\ 2,171 6/03/01 14:10 MAIL02A1.IN C:\NETMAIL\BUFFER\ 6,139 6/03/01 14:10 In fact, there's no difference. They are both three-line emails. The first is pure ASCII as required by the list's rules: Does anybody have the part numbers for these things? I'm putting in a rebuilt pump, and need new o-rings for the lines. The ones I got are too small. Apparently I can't decipher ETKA. Thanks. The second. This guy decides to send us everything encoded in direct and flagrant contravention of the list's rules, and he also thinks we're all interested in the intimate details of his email client's formatting scheme. 3 lines of content, 110+ lines of pure crap: ======================================================================== Maybe I'm out of the loop, but I keep hearing about the "W8" engine from VW/Audi, but I can't find anything on either of their websites. What is the W8 and where can I get more info (URL's etc.) on this engine? Peter '88 5KSQ '90 90Q20v ------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A646.2E817432 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Maybe I’m out of the loop, but I keep hearing about the “W8” engine from VW/Audi, but I can’t find anything on either of their websites.  What is the W8 and where can I get more info (URL’s etc.) on this engine?

 

Peter

 

’88 5KSQ

’90 90Q20v

------_=_NextPart_001_01C0A646.2E817432-- From KentMcLean at mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 10:34:22 2001 From: KentMcLean at mindspring.com (Kent) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages In-Reply-To: <200103060515.AAA20083@audifans.com> Message-ID: <3AA4BD2E.24665.492AD7@localhost> Al Powell wrote: > If you're using Pegasus Mail or Netscape, the command is > probably under "Edit" and "Preferences"...then look under "Mail > & Newsgroups" and "Formatting" (those are specific to Netscape > version 4.7). Select "Use plain text editor..." and your problems > are solved. Pegasus Mail (which I just started using at home since Kana no longer needs my services) help says, "When you make a change to your message that will result in it being sent in a rich text format, the Rich text control in the message editor will be automatically checked. You can force the message to be sent as plain text, regardless of any formatting it contains, by unchecking this control." It's at the top of the Message header when you are creating mail. Uncheck it. Or you can go to Tools/Options, Sending Mail tab, check "Always Remove Formatting" button. At least, that's what I'm doing with this message. We'll see what happens. Internet Explorer, even though "Plain Text Only" is checked, will send HTML format if you are replying to an HTML-style message (or if you cut-and-paste), which I think happened to me once or twice. Cheers, Kent McLean '89 200 TQ out in yesterday's snow, staying home today Kent McLean '89 200 TQ From rrrrraudi at yahoo.com Tue Mar 6 08:00:13 2001 From: rrrrraudi at yahoo.com (mike mcclurg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages - A Little Help, Please In-Reply-To: <5.0.2.1.2.20010306091428.0221c3b0@mail.charter.net> Message-ID: <20010306160013.43687.qmail@web12508.mail.yahoo.com> --- Robert Myers wrote: > >changed my format. I think a good deal of the > people that are doing it are > >doing it without knowing they are. Its a simple > change depending on the > >email program they are using and I'm sure everyone > would like everyone to > >get messages from each other. > I agree and may need a little help here, maybe others do also. I just barely know what you are talking about, but certainly do not know enough to tell if I have a problem, let alone fix it. One step at a time. Could someone who is opening all the mail, please tell me if I am MIMEing or HTMLing. Then, if I am a dreaded offender, next we can work on how to cure the disease. By the way, at the bottom of the Yahoo email composer screen is a set of selections and I have checked 'plain text' for this message as I have done for all earlier messages as far as I know. Thanks, Mike __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Mar 6 11:04:58 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages Message-ID: Cheers, Kent McLean '89 200 TQ out in yesterday's snow, staying home today STAYING HOME? In perfect quattro weather???? Come on Kent, I drove to work today, was actually kinda nice with no traffic. Drove all the way up 146 from Woonsocket to Worcester with the center dif locked as there was a good layer of snow on the road. All in all, was able to make the trip a little slower than usual, but was staying at 65 mph pretty much with absolutely no control problems. Love that quattro with new snow tires :) Rob 87 5ktq out and about today!!! :) From urquattro at telocity.com Tue Mar 6 08:45:02 2001 From: urquattro at telocity.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ References: <001601c0a5d1$2d19fe40$0c7db6c7@default> <001a01c0a5d4$f3f45620$d97afea9@noone> <3.0.5.32.20010306111443.02c76e80@kki.net.pl> Message-ID: <003601c0a65c$ca407d80$0201a8c0@phoenix> > Finding a type 44 in a junkyard is very hard, the ones that you can > find is either totalled in a crash so bad that almost not a single > item survived, or already slaughtered by someone else. In addition, > most of them are the base model with 4-cylinder 90 hp engine and > 4-speed manual.. ... same for us here in the USA ... T44s in the USA are so rare that I would never even suggest that folks in Europe waste their time scouring used parts yards here for spares ... remember the sales were way down due to the UI scare ... (wouldn't want the demand to go up too much you know ... ;-) I find it interesting to read this given the fact that we seem to be awash in T44s here according to the laments of the european bretheren ... yet you have things like 4.2 liter 6-speed V8Q's selling for a song! Seems to me someone could make a living shuttling 5kQs from the US over to Europe and returning with the V8s and selling them here! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From quattro_toronto at hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 11:50:16 2001 From: quattro_toronto at hotmail.com (quattro toronto) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Coolant tank repairable???? Message-ID: My A4 coolant tank has cracks and is leaking a bit of coolant. This thing repairable? Im thinking of patching the hairline cracks with something..hopefully you can tell me what to use. I've said it before, Im disappointed with some of the materials that were used on this car, namely the suspension links (squeaks), lighter, electrical gremlins and now the coolant bottle. My 85 coupe has 300,000 km, engine is bullet proof and pulls strong. The original coolant tank is now darkish yellowish but is damn SOLID for crying out loud. I can whine can't I? _________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com. From C1J1Miller at aol.com Tue Mar 6 11:45:36 2001 From: C1J1Miller at aol.com (C1J1Miller@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: UrS4 Hydraulic Pump (Line) O-Rings Message-ID: <30.115d533a.27d66e30@aol.com> > My car will not start. Pulled the codes got 2113, from SMJ I came up with > Hall sender in distributor, Distributor alignment, faulty sender, > Mis-located sensor & distributor. The problem also seems to be tempature > related. No start when it is warm, but starts fine when cold. Any ideas > where to look next. ... so ... did you check the Hall Sender in the distributor? Is the distributor misaligned? Is the sensor faulty? I have had temperature related problems with the Hall Sender that were corrected by proper adjustment of the distributor. One other thing to beware of is that the underlying problem might actually be that the cam timing has shifted due to a bad cam belt ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/a4bf55a5/attachment.htm From urquattro at telocity.com Tue Mar 6 08:53:37 2001 From: urquattro at telocity.com (urquattro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 References: <000f01c0a598$78e290a0$702afea9@5kcstqsisna.com> Message-ID: <007b01c0a65e$2b5c9bc0$0201a8c0@phoenix> > My car will not start. Pulled the codes got 2113, from SMJ I came up with > Hall sender in distributor, Distributor alignment, faulty sender, > Mis-located sensor & distributor. The problem also seems to be tempature > related. No start when it is warm, but starts fine when cold. Any ideas > where to look next. ... so ... did you check the Hall Sender in the distributor? Is the distributor misaligned? Is the sensor faulty? I have had temperature related problems with the Hall Sender that were corrected by proper adjustment of the distributor. One other thing to beware of is that the underlying problem might actually be that the cam timing has shifted due to a bad cam belt ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From conner at cfm.ohio-state.edu Tue Mar 6 11:56:34 2001 From: conner at cfm.ohio-state.edu (Dave Conner) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.20010306115634.00e133f0@mail.cfm.ohio-state.edu> Reid says... "I'm looking for rear badges for my 86' 4KCSQ. New or in excellent condition preferred. Any help or info is greatly appreciated." Reid, Why do you want new badges? Is it because the ones you have are faded with half the silver worn off? One way to deal with this is to take off the rest of the silver and make them all black. Lots of folks have done this, incl me, and it looks pretty sharp. One nice way to do it is to carefully wipe them off with acetone and a soft lint free cotton cloth. The acetone will dissolve the top layer and careful wiping leaves a nice smooth surface. Dave C. From JShadzi at aol.com Tue Mar 6 12:07:58 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Coolant tank repairable???? Message-ID: No, it will leak again, nothing bonds to the plastic. Buy a new one, they are under $50, well worth the saftey and peace of mind. Javad From zed123 at telusplanet.net Tue Mar 6 10:16:51 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question Message-ID: <05af01c0a661$3ddc2510$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> I am just going over some of the recommendations what to check on the turbo for a 10v I5, and have some questions. Why does he recommend to replace the idle/WOT throttle switch, and fuel injector inserts/O-rings, and how much do they cost? Can't they just be checked if they are ok? Thanks, Zsolt 88 5k tq 145,000km 86 5k tq 250,000km -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/cf826cc0/attachment.htm From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Mar 6 12:35:47 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question Message-ID: Skipped content of type multipart/alternative From dans at audifans.com Tue Mar 6 12:42:09 2001 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: subaru gets it Message-ID: <3AA52171.D67B617@audifans.com> Just got an email from Subaru. Everyone purchasing a 2002 Subaru WRX will be given a complimentary 1 year membership to the SCCA. Subaru gets it. They really get it. Audi, are you listening? Oh, never mind. | Dan | From auditude at neta.com Tue Mar 6 10:26:26 2001 From: auditude at neta.com (Ken Keith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question Message-ID: <3AA51DC1.8BFCAD48@neta.com> > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. Hey, your mailer is sending MIME emails. Isn't there a thread about not doing this? (there is :-) ) > I am just going over some of the recommendations what to check on the > turbo for a 10v I5, and have some questions. > Why does he recommend to replace the idle/WOT throttle switch, and > fuel injector inserts/O-rings, and how much do they cost? The WOT switch is most likely bad, because they suck. If you haven't replaced yours, then it probably needs replacing. The o-ring question probably applies to all the rubber items on the car as well, hoses, seals, and boots, probably all should be inspected or better, replaced. > Can't they just be checked if they are ok? In theory, yes. However, the WOT switch is known to test good but be bad. The way I see it, all the rubber items, and a few of the known electronic items, should all be replaced. Somehow, these cars were designed that way. I would like to replace my lower IC hose, but would like to stumble upon "the source" that is not the dealer. My advice, replace the WOT switch, MF temp sensor, FP and radiator fan relays, all the vacuum hoses and rubber boots. Basically, trust SJM's site for advice, it's BTDT. It's not like it says to preventatively replace the steering rack or blower motor, those items are service as needed. The WOT switch is replace first, then look elsewhere. Ken From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 12:41:33 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 In-Reply-To: <20010306.072652.-135119.8.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <000f01c0a664$afb8fb10$1100a8c0@JATER> The bentley states "CAUTION The function of the power output stage of the coil can NOT be checked." reference; 1990 200TQ - MC turbo with 2 Knock Sensors You can test around it and obvious failures require replacement but the final spark can't be tested. Again this applies to the later ignition. It gives tests for the various components, but they could pass them all and still require a new coil. My $0.02 cdn Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Lawrence C Leung [mailto:l.leung@juno.com] > >Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 6:57 AM > >To: pjberr@home.com > >Subject: Re: 86 5kcstq code 2113 > > > > > >Just wanted to be sure. There is a test procedure for this > >in the Haynes, > >and AFAIR, there is also a test procedure in my 100/200 > >series Bentley. > >Both procedures test the primary and secondary coils for resistance > >across the ground (as opposed to inductance), which I > >thought seemed a > >bit shakey. Are these procedures unreliable? > > > >LL - NY > > > >On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 02:56:50 -0500 "Peter Berrevoets" > > > >writes: > >> > >> > >> > >>7) if still no start - suspect ignition coil - replace. (this is an > >>expensive part - exhaust all other possibilities first!! > >There is no > >>way to > >>test the coil for "good/bad") > >> > >> > > From mchang at ee.washington.edu Tue Mar 6 09:41:56 2001 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Marketplace update Message-ID: By popular request the Marketplace now keeps old ads as "archived" instead of first deleting them. I will be still deleting them whenever I feel the urge :>. Mark From zed123 at telusplanet.net Tue Mar 6 10:58:58 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question References: <3AA51DC1.8BFCAD48@neta.com> Message-ID: <05b701c0a667$1e110c90$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> ok, I'm sorry I didn't erealize the MIME thing...do you know how to change it in explorer? I'm a netscape guy, and I only use explorer for this group's e mail. thanks, Zsolt ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Keith To: ; Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 10:26 AM Subject: re: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > Hey, your mailer is sending MIME emails. Isn't there a thread > about not doing this? (there is :-) ) > > > I am just going over some of the recommendations what to check on the > > turbo for a 10v I5, and have some questions. > > Why does he recommend to replace the idle/WOT throttle switch, and > > fuel injector inserts/O-rings, and how much do they cost? > > The WOT switch is most likely bad, because they suck. If you haven't > replaced yours, then it probably needs replacing. The o-ring question > probably applies to all the rubber items on the car as well, hoses, > seals, and boots, probably all should be inspected or better, > replaced. > > > Can't they just be checked if they are ok? > > In theory, yes. However, the WOT switch is known to test good but > be bad. > > The way I see it, all the rubber items, and a few of the known > electronic items, should all be replaced. Somehow, these cars were > designed that way. I would like to replace my lower IC hose, but > would like to stumble upon "the source" that is not the dealer. > > My advice, replace the WOT switch, MF temp sensor, FP and radiator > fan relays, all the vacuum hoses and rubber boots. Basically, trust > SJM's site for advice, it's BTDT. It's not like it says to > preventatively > replace the steering rack or blower motor, those items are service as > needed. The WOT switch is replace first, then look elsewhere. > > Ken From tnas at euronet.nl Tue Mar 6 18:52:30 2001 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: My car is trying to punish me Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010306183752.00b0d860@mail.euronet.nl> Hi all, I thought it was always the nice options (a/c, sunroofs, power windows, seat heaters) on your Audis that failed as a warning from the Audi Gods. Well, it's official: my no-options Audi 80 is punishing mefor not fixing the break-in damage to the driver's door. When I got in the car to drive home tonight, my rearview mirror (complete with furry dice) was on the floor. Driving out of the parking lot, I noticed the speedo was dead. Great, do we consider these options? :-) I guess for the rearview mirror it's clean thoroughly, glue mirror back onto the screen with special UV-curing adhesive? Is there any way (on a type 89 80) to get the metal backing plate out of the mirror stem so that you don't need to load the new adhesive while it's curing? The mirror's a pretty hefty thing, and there's no Allen screw like I've seen on type 81/85s... I don't think it's a good idea to detach the mirror from the stem, as putting it back would put too much stress on the new bond IMO. As for the speedo- a hefty whack on the top of the dash returned it to working order. Standard type 89 problem. Hope this speedo doesn't stop working entirely like my two previous cars' did... Tom 87 90q dead but clean 87 80 falling to bits wherever I touch it 88 80 gone, but not forgotten From pjberr at home.com Tue Mar 6 12:58:14 2001 From: pjberr at home.com (Peter Berrevoets) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: your driving lights in the turn sig spots... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001201c0a667$04c6e5c0$1100a8c0@JATER> egon venkman! ROFL Who you gonna call? That was a good chuckle, sorry! Driving lights, These came from Canadian Tire and are "Pilot" brand. The model # PL-1055C driving light - clear lense 55W H3 halogen bulbs. Cost around $80.00 CDN and are great. This is major stone chip zone and I have replaced one already so the cheap price allows me to not curse and swear WHEN it happens. Wired tham into the high beam circuit and used relays for power from the remot battery post. Awesome difference. If you mount the turn signal in the small reflector in the crappy North American headlights you have a bolt-on HTH Peter Berrevoets 1990 200TQ Toronto, Canada http://frontpage.home.net/pjberr/ > >-----Original Message----- > >From: egon venkman [mailto:sf5ktq@hotmail.com] > >Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:10 PM > >To: pjberr@home.com > >Subject: your driving lights in the turn sig spots... > > > > > >peter, > > > >what kind / model of driving lights are those in your Q? i > >have a 5k, and > >was considering the same mod with a set of piaa's - the make > >a rectangular > >light that would fit with a touch of trimming.... > > > >but if i dont have to trim, id rather not.... > > > >thanx! > > > >jim > >_________________________________________________________________ > >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com > > > > From zed123 at telusplanet.net Tue Mar 6 11:00:53 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question References: Message-ID: <05c401c0a667$62df7d70$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> Thanks Zsolt ----- Original Message ----- From: Beatty, Robert To: 'Zsolt' ; quattro@audifans.com Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 10:35 AM Subject: RE: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question The idle/WOT switch has a common problem of breaking at the solder joint inside the switch. If you are handy with a soldering iron and are familiar with electronics like me, then you can repair the break in the solder. If not, then just replace the switch, they arent that expensive. The fuel injector O-rings have a lifespan and once exceeded they can be deformed and not seal as well as the new ones would. Again they are inexpensive, i think under a $1.00 each. They are just a pain to put back in. Rob -----Original Message----- From: Zsolt [mailto:zed123@telusplanet.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 12:17 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question I am just going over some of the recommendations what to check on the turbo for a 10v I5, and have some questions. Why does he recommend to replace the idle/WOT throttle switch, and fuel injector inserts/O-rings, and how much do they cost? Can't they just be checked if they are ok? Thanks, Zsolt 88 5k tq 145,000km 86 5k tq 250,000km -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/dee63af8/attachment.htm From KentMcLean at mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 11:56:29 2001 From: KentMcLean at mindspring.com (Kent) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: WTB: A4/A6 quattro Message-ID: <3AA4D06D.5571.945B8C@localhost> Robert Blumel wrote: > I need to sell my 93 Toyota Land Cruiser and buy a late 90's > A4 or A6 Quattro ... That was my plan, too, except I wanted an Avant. On Saturday I took a ride to Dove (NH) Auto World. They didn't have a 95/96 in stock, but they did have a real nice 99.5 A4. Hyacinth (Wine) Red with charcoal grey interior. 5-speed. 190HP V6. 6 CD changer in trunk. Took it out for a ride. Loved it. Solid. Quiet. Fast. Supple. Problem was, the $15-16K I wanted to spend blossomed to $23.9K. I was mighty tempted ($5K down, ~$400/mo for 60 months). But I didn't like the color, no heated seats, and a bit small for me and my three boys. But it was sweet. Very sweet. They also had a screaming yellow S4 Avant. Too wild for me, but Huw would love it. :-) Kent McLean '89 200 TQ needing lot's of work From KentMcLean at mindspring.com Tue Mar 6 11:56:29 2001 From: KentMcLean at mindspring.com (Kent) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Typo Message-ID: <3AA4D06D.4358.945BC8@localhost> Stephen Bigelow wrote: > That wall is built with a Flemish bond. I thought the wall was built like Ian Flemming's Bond. Sorry, it must be cabin fever. Kent McLean '89 200 TQ From zed123 at telusplanet.net Tue Mar 6 11:02:38 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question References: <3AA51DC1.8BFCAD48@neta.com> Message-ID: <05d401c0a667$a15d4320$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> changed it to text only. :) how is this? Zsolt ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Keith To: ; Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 10:26 AM Subject: re: SJM Auto-Technik checklist question > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > Hey, your mailer is sending MIME emails. Isn't there a thread > about not doing this? (there is :-) ) > > > I am just going over some of the recommendations what to check on the > > turbo for a 10v I5, and have some questions. > > Why does he recommend to replace the idle/WOT throttle switch, and > > fuel injector inserts/O-rings, and how much do they cost? > > The WOT switch is most likely bad, because they suck. If you haven't > replaced yours, then it probably needs replacing. The o-ring question > probably applies to all the rubber items on the car as well, hoses, > seals, and boots, probably all should be inspected or better, > replaced. > > > Can't they just be checked if they are ok? > > In theory, yes. However, the WOT switch is known to test good but > be bad. > > The way I see it, all the rubber items, and a few of the known > electronic items, should all be replaced. Somehow, these cars were > designed that way. I would like to replace my lower IC hose, but > would like to stumble upon "the source" that is not the dealer. > > My advice, replace the WOT switch, MF temp sensor, FP and radiator > fan relays, all the vacuum hoses and rubber boots. Basically, trust > SJM's site for advice, it's BTDT. It's not like it says to > preventatively > replace the steering rack or blower motor, those items are service as > needed. The WOT switch is replace first, then look elsewhere. > > Ken From msvphoto at pacbell.net Tue Mar 6 10:31:17 2001 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 87 5kcstq Dead Fuel Pump Troubleshooting Message-ID: <3AA52CF5.9D747911@pacbell.net> In between arguments over mime/no mime html/no html, etc. I would like to reach out to you all and ask for a wee bit of "no start" troubleshooting help. Some may recall my first post on this yesterday...a couple folks suggested the fuel pump relay, thank you! But, I had already changed it :( The car now sits safely in my carport awaiting my time to properly troubleshoot it, but based on the way it died my focus is on the Fuel Pump. When running ECU output tests with a new FP Relay the FP did not make any noise, but that was troubleshooting streetside in a rain storm so who knows. I have the book-o-Bentley and decent troubleshooting skills so I am pretty clear on how to determine if the FP is my problem. My specific questions are: 1. Does the tank really need to be drained to R&R the fuel pump? (Suggestions??? Siphon into another car or???) 2. Anyone know where the best place to get a fuel pump is these days? (TPC wants $199.00 for P/N 447 906 091C and Linda wants $190.00 for P/N 443 906 087BE which is supposed to be the latest "sub") I imagine Carlsen/Linda is the way to go? 3. I'll try searching the archives for the old tank screen threads, but in case I don't dig them up can someone remind me with BTDT info on what I need to look for/do there? TIA! Now we may return to our MIME/HTML on/off issues ;-) Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From orin at WOLFENET.com Tue Mar 6 10:36:28 2001 From: orin at WOLFENET.com (Orin Eman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages - A Little Help, Please In-Reply-To: <20010306160013.43687.qmail@web12508.mail.yahoo.com> from "mike mcclurg" at Mar 06, 2001 08:00:13 AM Message-ID: <200103061836.KAA26556@gonzo.wolfenet.com> > One step at a time. Could someone who is opening all > the mail, please tell me if I am MIMEing or HTMLing. > Then, if I am a dreaded offender, next we can work on > how to cure the disease. You are fine. Orin. From isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk Tue Mar 6 18:43:05 2001 From: isham-research.freeserve.co.uk at pop.pol.net.uk (isham-research.freeserve.co.uk@pop.pol.net.uk) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 86 5kcstq code 2113 Message-ID: > The bentley states "CAUTION The function of the power output stage of > the coil can NOT be checked." reference; 1990 200TQ - MC turbo with 2 > Knock Sensors > You can test around it and obvious failures require replacement but > the final spark can't be tested. Oh, I don't know. If you let Roger Galvin mess around with a loose plug held to ground on top of the engine, he'll generally forget what he's doing after a few seconds and take a belt from it. Sends him hopping around the workshop swearing like a demented pixie with a rusty nail in one foot. Not recommended procedure - this system is DANGEROUS. The alternative is a Gunson spark cell. You can even leave it in circuit for start attempts. The 'coil testing' spark is a dull deep orange thing - the real McCoy is MUCH brighter and also visibly of longer duration. Not an official test, but I find it useful. The output stage can't be checked tha way a normal coil can, though. -- Phil From zed123 at telusplanet.net Tue Mar 6 11:51:49 2001 From: zed123 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages - A Little Help, Please References: <200103061836.KAA26556@gonzo.wolfenet.com> Message-ID: <05e801c0a66e$802add00$0a18a8c0@telusplanet.net> in explorer go to tools/options/send and click on plain text under mail sending format. Zsolt ----- Original Message ----- From: Orin Eman To: mike mcclurg Cc: Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 11:36 AM Subject: Re: Turn Off HTML Encoding In Messages - A Little Help, Please > > One step at a time. Could someone who is opening all > > the mail, please tell me if I am MIMEing or HTMLing. > > Then, if I am a dreaded offender, next we can work on > > how to cure the disease. > > You are fine. > > Orin. From tnas at euronet.nl Tue Mar 6 19:42:27 2001 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:46 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.0.20010306193725.00ac6d00@mail.euronet.nl> Eyvind Spangen wrote: >Finding a type 44 in a junkyard is very hard, the ones that you can >find is either totalled in a crash so bad that almost not a single >item survived, or already slaughtered by someone else. In addition, >most of them are the base model with 4-cylinder 90 hp engine and >4-speed manual.. I cordially invite you to visit my local scrapyard here in Utrecht, Holland- at least five near-perfect type 44s there. Must be the accumulated failures and Audi's parts prices/dealer rates which kill them off... I agree though- killing a healthy car (however rare or common) is not a good idea. It's not my car, however... Tom From ss180ss at yahoo.com Tue Mar 6 11:05:19 2001 From: ss180ss at yahoo.com (Percy) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: NAC-need help with CIS lambda problem- Message-ID: <20010306190519.21420.qmail@web11507.mail.yahoo.com> Hello, I'm currently working aon a friends 84 GTi with CIS, a frequency valve, and an O2 sensor. Basically, the carruns like shit. there is low fuel pressure to the fuel lines, and I had to richen the mixure up ALOT just to get it to run at all. I have swapped out the warm-up regulator, the fuel distributor and the freq. valve with known good ones- the fuel lines are new, and the fuel pump seems to be operating OK- no change- If i crack the line from the fuel pump to the fuel disributor, there appaers to be plenty of pressure- If i crack the fuel lines to the fuel injectors, there is hardly any pressure. the Ijectors do not appear to leak, but I haven't ruled out if they are bad or not yet- The spits and sputters, and runs on only 3 cyl. most of the time. it is running very rich, as can be told from the exhaust (black) but that is the only way it will run at all. it hardly has any power, a little more after 4000 rpm, but still hardly what is expected out of a lightweight ur GTi any one BTDT? thanks so much for any and all help! percy. 85 Audi 4kq 90 Gli looking for a rabbit PU __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ From rfrazier1 at triad.rr.com Tue Mar 6 14:13:35 2001 From: rfrazier1 at triad.rr.com (Ron & Janet Frazier) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Outer CV Joint Removing Message-ID: <004e01c0a671$8af681a0$79d05818@triad.rr.com> Alex, I took mine to a machinist that rebilds engines. He pressed it while opening the circlip. I would have never been able to do this at home. It was still difficult for him. You have to able to keep the thing motionless to work with the circlip. Ron Frazier 1990 200tqw 1993 100csqw -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/24b6557f/attachment.htm From JShadzi at aol.com Tue Mar 6 14:14:26 2001 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Parting out a perfectly good car..was 20v in a 90 Message-ID: <9.11ec698b.27d69112@aol.com> Above any etheral or "ethical" conversations, I believe there are very good financial ways to determine the validity of parting out a good, running car. It really all comes down to market value, and unfortunately, market value in other parts of the world are completely independent of market value here in the US when it comes to this decision. If you have a car with a market value of $1000, and it requires a $2000 transmission for example, then the decision to repair the car for any reason becomes a very poor one. Send it to the junk yard, and put that $2k into a better running car that is worth more than $2k. In the case of parting out a perfectly good 200 20v for another project, consider that you could sell the car for $5-10,000. Thus, you will be spending approximately $5-10,000 (what the car could be sold for) for the donation of the parts to the project, when realistically, the parts could be had for around $3000. So, you will incur a minimum of a $2000 (and as much as $7k!) premium for using the parts in the running car you have, which is worth much more running than in parts. Poor decision IMO... Javad From muellerl at cadvision.com Tue Mar 6 12:26:14 2001 From: muellerl at cadvision.com (Leah and David Mueller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: My apologies too, is this correct now? References: <200103061542.KAA15133@audifans.com> Message-ID: <000b01c0a662$a732bd20$3d9294cf@ibmam82mal> My deepest apologies, I hope my settings are correct now? "Unencode" make sense instead of Mime,HTML? Please reply to help me confirm, thankyou. David From Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com Tue Mar 6 13:29:54 2001 From: Stephane.Livolsi at investorsgroup.com (Livolsi, Stephane) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges Message-ID: <3F24BBFCF4B0D411972E0060948A3BAFA5C580@IGMAIL2> Or if you have a black or dark gray car you can paint them yellow and gain a few hp..... It looks sharp too! Stephane > ---------- > From: Dave Conner[SMTP:conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu] > Sent: March 6, 2001 8:56 AM > To: north@bright.net > Cc: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges > > Reid says... > "I'm looking for rear badges for my 86' 4KCSQ. > New or in excellent condition preferred. > Any help or info is greatly appreciated." > > Reid, > Why do you want new badges? Is it because the ones you have are faded > with > half the silver worn off? One way to deal with this is to take off the > rest of the silver and make them all black. Lots of folks have done this, > incl me, and it looks pretty sharp. One nice way to do it is to carefully > wipe them off with acetone and a soft lint free cotton cloth. The acetone > will dissolve the top layer and careful wiping leaves a nice smooth > surface. > Dave C. > From lbox at iitrc.lv Tue Mar 6 21:49:26 2001 From: lbox at iitrc.lv (Haris) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: You Know! Some of us is still driving with A100 '84 Message-ID: <003601c0a676$8dd3e5c0$ba6a02c3@UltraMan> Like me! From BeattyR at ummhc.org Tue Mar 6 14:48:41 2001 From: BeattyR at ummhc.org (Beatty, Robert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges Message-ID: Well the cars that are painted in Tornado Red come with a few more HP !!! :) Rob -----Original Message----- From: Livolsi, Stephane [mailto:Stephane.Livolsi@investorsgroup.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 2:30 PM To: Audi Quattro List Subject: RE: 4kcsq Rear Badges Or if you have a black or dark gray car you can paint them yellow and gain a few hp..... It looks sharp too! Stephane > ---------- > From: Dave Conner[SMTP:conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu] > Sent: March 6, 2001 8:56 AM > To: north@bright.net > Cc: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges > > Reid says... > "I'm looking for rear badges for my 86' 4KCSQ. > New or in excellent condition preferred. > Any help or info is greatly appreciated." > > Reid, > Why do you want new badges? Is it because the ones you have are faded > with > half the silver worn off? One way to deal with this is to take off the > rest of the silver and make them all black. Lots of folks have done this, > incl me, and it looks pretty sharp. One nice way to do it is to carefully > wipe them off with acetone and a soft lint free cotton cloth. The acetone > will dissolve the top layer and careful wiping leaves a nice smooth > surface. > Dave C. > From paulfern2000 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 6 21:04:29 2001 From: paulfern2000 at yahoo.com (paul fernandes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: [V8] V8 Suspension & carrier bearing References: <3AA3A7B9.B261A693@mestek.com> Message-ID: <009c01c0a67a$2fa2e740$0100007f@paulfern> Theron, I had this similar experinece last year I had checked around at dealers seems they only sell the whole shaft..but wait don't spend that much money. I contacted the people at BLAUFERGNUGEN and were able to get me the center shaft bearing (i believe it was around $60 bucks) the price for the whole shaft over $800....By the way they were the only peolpe "WORLD wide " that supply this bearing to the best of my knowledge. As for the the suspension well don't want to say too much as it mite get me in trouble as in the past on the list. but anyway I did this already as well I bought some strut front/shock rear for the V8 at RD enterprises www.shox.com they gave a very nice price for a real nice shock. They other option is the S727 option. Oh hear we go again I can hear the others already, it's the sport version suspension for type 44 chassis... but believe IBACH had a spring similar to the S727 option...may the others will know more about this... Paul F. www.hometown.aol.com/fernaudi/Quattro-nation.html ____________________________________________________________________________ ___________ ----- Original Message ----- From: Theron J. Bliss To: ; ; Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 3:50 PM Subject: [V8] V8 Suspension & carrier bearing > I finally put in the straight pipes on Saturday night. Sounds > great, and breathes much better. I can't get over how heavy the mid > muffler is. It must be close to 40 pounds. > > I have 2 new projects: > > 1. Carrier bearing: > I noticed when I did the exhaust, that the center drive shaft > bearing is pretty mushy, which is probably why I hear a rubbing noise > when I accelerate fast. Does anyone know where I can get a new one? I > know this was brought up before, but I couldn't find the info. > > 2: Suspension: > I would like to get a suspension set up that would maybe lower the > car a little, but not drastically. My struts need replacing anyway, so > I figured it was a good time. I looked at tirerack.com, but my car > isn't listed. Any suggestions? > > TIA > > > Theron J. Bliss > Massachusetts > 1990 V8 Quattro > 199,000 miles > Lago Blue, Grey Connolly leather > > http://sites.netscape.net/theronbliss/homepage > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Audifans v8 mailing list > Send posts to: mailto:v8@audifans.com > Manage your list options: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8 _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com From rubbert at prodigy.net Tue Mar 6 13:29:56 2001 From: rubbert at prodigy.net (Robert Hemphill) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Is my message ascii only now? Message-ID: <3AA548C4.AEE12F29@prodigy.net> RSVP BTW, perhaps html-default email is good for business? Robert Hemphill From J123fs at aol.com Tue Mar 6 15:34:29 2001 From: J123fs at aol.com (J123fs@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Hall sendor Message-ID: Mark, I would look to see if you have a problem with the wiring that runs to the distributor and Hall sender. I have seen many problems over the years with the connection at the wires as they run into the plug; as they are rather thin and fragile they can break right at the plug causing intermittent problems. Try looking there, and if ness go to a junkyard and get another good plug ( take an ohm meter and check the circuit thru the plug while moving it around, if you loose your circuit you know the wire is bad). Also, as you stated it may also be a temp related problem you should check the plastic plug that holds the plug receptacle to the distributor as this also fails, and as things heat up it may pull away or move as it expands causing intermittent contact. If that is not the source of the problem check the wiring under the plastic cover from the plug to the sender unit (after removing the cap and rotor) as it will sometimes break when the distributor shaft gets worn and loose and wobbles the hall sensor window such that it cuts the wire. If that's the case, you can sometimes solder it carefully after taking the distr. out and removing the hall trigger window. Good luck, and e-mail me if you have any other questions, as I have BTDT before on the Hall sender before. See ya Johnny -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/quattro/attachments/20010306/e9c1d546/attachment.htm From robert at s-cars.org Tue Mar 6 15:56:47 2001 From: robert at s-cars.org (Robert Myers) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Well I'll be Damned -MIME solved Message-ID: <5.0.2.1.2.20010306155410.0215c220@mail.charter.net> Hi Y'all, I think I have figured out why the MIME indication was in my headers. I use AVG virus scanner software. It will scan both incoming and outgoing e-mails. I had it set to scan both. I have now changed it to scan only incoming mail. Let's see how this note works... Bob ***** Robert L. Myers 304-574-2372 Rt. 4, Box 57, Fayetteville, WV 25840 USA WV tag Q SHIP '95 urS6 Cashmere Grey - der Wunderwagen ICQ 22170244 http://www.cob-net.org/church/pvcob.htm MediaRing Talk 304-574-1166 ***** From cjcasati at hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 15:57:50 2001 From: cjcasati at hotmail.com (cjcasati@hotmail.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: difference in timing belt job 5kt vs 90 References: <200103061542.KAA15133@audifans.com> Message-ID: Hi, I have mastered a timing belt job on my 5KTQ with the tools from Blau (and Marc) and the Bentley. I (and the Audi)stand to attest that this is manageable as I am far from a mechanic. And the car still runs. Anyway, so while I have the tools I thought I would do the 90s FWD as well. Does anyone have advice on differences or tricks in gaining similar access? Bumper removal isn't obvious, and that radiator is a little inconvenient. Thank you for your help! Christoph 86 5KTQ 164K (still working on the brakes) 88 90s FWD 140K From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Tue Mar 6 21:06:45 2001 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 87 5kcstq Dead Fuel Pump Troubleshooting Message-ID: >My specific questions are: 1. Does the tank really need to be drained to R&R the fuel pump? (Suggestions??? Siphon into another car or???) No, but it really helps. If it died after a fill up, as mine once did, sorry. If you are getting the new pump, you can use it to drain the gas. If your tank is 1/2 full or less you can get away with a few quick dunks. The FP is held in with 3 clips, no tools involved here. The lions share of the work is removing the fuel sender retainer and assorted hoses and electrical connectors. Don't forget to put the sender retaining collar on before reattaching hoses and electrical connectors (outside the tank) on reinstall. >2. Anyone know where the best place to get a fuel pump is these days? Always good to check Chris @ Force 5 >3. I'll try searching the archives for the old tank screen threads, but in case I don't dig them up can someone remind me with BTDT info on what I need to look for/do there? If you have one, remove it. Mike _________________________________________________________________ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com From knotnook at traverse.com Tue Mar 6 16:26:41 2001 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: Mime [was Tyre (tire) pressures] In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.1.2.20010306162156.00bffe50@traverse.com> I have every option I can find on my mailer program (Eudora) set to plain, non-MIME, etc., setting. I'm told by someone more experienced than I (and that includes most everyone) that some internet service providers include some of what everyone else considers objectionable wastes of bandwidth in every message they process. Is that the reason I'm a "banned" poster as far as Phil's concerned? At 12:46 PM 03/06/2001 +0000, quk@isham-research.freeserve.co.uk wrote: > >> What e-mail client are you using that lets you italicize the > >> original message in your reply? I like the format! > > > Good question, it's Microsoft outlook Express for sure, tell me how > > to find the version and I'll let you know. I just click on the I > > square as in MS word, (hint, not very computer literate!) > >I was online with the Nokia's browser this morning and saw this - >otherwise it would have been deleted before being read. > >I do most sincerely hope that the discussion proceeds from ignorance and >not the gross discourtesy it seems to be. > >We are Dan's guests on these lists. As such, we are beholden to Dan and >I believe (others may believe differently) that we should abide by his >rules. Those rules are very clearly stated in simple English on the >Audifans web site: > > "There is no cost for subscribing to the lists, but you > must subscribe in order to post a message to the list. > This is to prevent spamming from outside parties. > Also, messages sent to the list must be in plain text > format - no MIME, HTML, image or file attachments." > >See what it says? Even if you have your email client set to post plain >ASCII, selecting some trivial snick-snack like italics, underlining, >fonts, etc., will ALWAYS generate a MIME email taking four to five times >more of Dan's bandwidth than an ASCII text message. > >If this proceeds from ignorance, it is discourteous. If it is done in >spite of knowing the effects, it is quite breathtaking. You're in good >(bad) company, though. This is a recent list of multi-part senders >stopped by my system: > > DGraber460@aol.com > HAMRENDAN@aol.com > JShadzi@aol.com > JanDebL@aol.com > JordanVw@aol.com > KAMMLER1@aol.com > audidudi@mindspring.com > julian.stafford@virgin.net > kbogach@home.com > knotnook@traverse.com > quattro@europa.com > rmyers@oak.total-web.net > smarinello@newpark.com > zed123@telusplanet.net > >All are guilty of the same discourtesy to Dan in ignoring the conditions >of use of the lists - clearly posted on the Audifans web sight. > >Maybe quite a few people need Reading Comprehension 101. > >And maybe some of the people wasting Dan's bandwidth like this should >pony up a donation in recompense. > >-- > Phil > From marcswanson at mediaone.net Tue Mar 6 16:31:50 2001 From: marcswanson at mediaone.net (Marc Swanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: What's the difference? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > Two posts, as received. One is three times the size of the other - if > Dan is sending out 1,800 copies of each, he has to fund (out of his own > pocket) 8MB more bandwidth for the second one over the first: > > MAIL02A0.IN C:\NETMAIL\BUFFER\ 2,171 6/03/01 14:10 > MAIL02A1.IN C:\NETMAIL\BUFFER\ 6,139 6/03/01 14:10 > So really... how hard is it to parse mime and html mail before blowing it out of the server? Seems to me some quick perl code could be written to intercept the mail before it goes out and bounce it if it is anything but plain text..... In fact i can bet somebody has already done this for other mailing lists.... -Marc- /* +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +Marc Swanson + + + +http://marcswanson.ne.mediaone.net + + + +87 4kcstq + +88 90q + +85 4ksq + +87 5ktq donor (Parting out) + +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ */ From l.leung at juno.com Tue Mar 6 16:16:36 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: My apologies too, is this correct now? Message-ID: <20010306.162557.-3970025.6.l.leung@juno.com> Much better! On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 12:26:14 -0500 "Leah and David Mueller" writes: >My deepest apologies, I hope my settings are correct now? "Unencode" >make >sense instead of Mime,HTML? Please reply to help me confirm, >thankyou. > >David > > From alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net Tue Mar 6 21:23:37 2001 From: alanthecelt at alanthecelt.screaming.net (alan pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: difference in timing belt job 5kt vs 90 References: <200103061542.KAA15133@audifans.com> Message-ID: <00fb01c0a683$b53f6050$0200a8c0@kamikazepv9ctc> well if its anything like the job on the cgt its real simple, on my car there is a grill in the lower part of the front valance, pop this. remove the grill, you should now have full access to the cam cover. it is sometimes easier also if you remove the cardboard radiator duct thingys loosen off the power steering pump and remove the belt. do the same with the alternator belt. completely remove the coach bolt that holds the steering pump in position and you should be able to move the whole assembly out of the way. pop the cam belt cover by undoing the 2 special headed bolts in the front and remove the cover. undo the 2 hex head screws that hold the lower cover in position, i think they are level with the centre of the lower pulley to either side, and are usually covered in road gunk that makes them hard to find. now by loosening offthe water pump the belt can be removed and refitted. hope i dint forget anything, its been a while since i did this job. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 8:57 PM Subject: difference in timing belt job 5kt vs 90 > Hi, > > I have mastered a timing belt job on my 5KTQ with the tools from Blau (and > Marc) and the Bentley. I (and the Audi)stand to attest that this is > manageable as I am far from a mechanic. And the car still runs. > Anyway, so while I have the tools I thought I would do the 90s FWD as well. > Does anyone have advice on differences or tricks in gaining similar access? > Bumper removal isn't obvious, and that radiator is a little inconvenient. > > Thank you for your help! > > Christoph > 86 5KTQ 164K (still working on the brakes) > 88 90s FWD 140K From blur at sympatico.ca Tue Mar 6 16:29:13 2001 From: blur at sympatico.ca (Burl Vibert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 87 5kcstq Dead Fuel Pump Troubleshooting References: <3AA52CF5.9D747911@pacbell.net> Message-ID: <3AA556A9.D018D3BD@sympatico.ca> Motor Sport Visions Photography wrote: > > In between arguments over mime/no mime html/no html, etc. I would like > to reach out to you all and ask for a wee bit of "no start" > troubleshooting help. Some may recall my first post on this > yesterday...a couple folks suggested the fuel pump relay, thank you! > But, I had already changed it :( > > The car now sits safely in my carport awaiting my time to properly > troubleshoot it, but based on the way it died my focus is on the Fuel > Pump. When running ECU output tests with a new FP Relay the FP did not > make any noise, but that was troubleshooting streetside in a rain storm > so who knows. Hi Mike That's pretty much how I determined mine had bit it. But it was also making nasty noises on the way to work, where it died. > > I have the book-o-Bentley and decent troubleshooting skills so I am > pretty clear on how to determine if the FP is my problem. > > My specific questions are: > > 1. Does the tank really need to be drained to R&R the fuel pump? > (Suggestions??? Siphon into another car or???) Mine was 3/4 full. The pump is at the bottom of the tank so you will either get your arm very soaked in gasoline or visit a veterinarian and get a shoulder length glove. I is removed and installed fairly easily, just fold down the clips on the corners and yank it out. Make sure you reinstall it correctly or you will be doing it again. > > 2. Anyone know where the best place to get a fuel pump is these days? > (TPC wants $199.00 for P/N 447 906 091C and Linda wants $190.00 for P/N > 443 906 087BE which is supposed to be the latest "sub") I imagine > Carlsen/Linda is the way to go? I found mine locally (Competition Motors, Belleville) for $250CAD, that's about $1.47USD, no really, it's about $165USD. Audi wanted over $500 and I needed a good laugh. > > 3. I'll try searching the archives for the old tank screen threads, but > in case I don't dig them up can someone remind me with BTDT info on what > I need to look for/do there? Mine was totally missing, maybe the pump sucked it in leading to it's demise. Good luck. Burl Vibert 1987 5kcstq Kingston, Ontario From l.leung at juno.com Tue Mar 6 16:17:10 2001 From: l.leung at juno.com (Lawrence C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges Message-ID: <20010306.162557.-3970025.7.l.leung@juno.com> (W)Huw! LL-NY On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 13:29:54 -0600 "Livolsi, Stephane" writes: >Or if you have a black or dark gray car you can paint them yellow and >gain a >few hp..... >It looks sharp too! > >Stephane > >> ---------- >> From: Dave Conner[SMTP:conner@cfm.ohio-state.edu] >> Sent: March 6, 2001 8:56 AM >> To: north@bright.net >> Cc: quattro@audifans.com >> Subject: 4kcsq Rear Badges >> >> Reid says... >> "I'm looking for rear badges for my 86' 4KCSQ. >> New or in excellent condition preferred. >> Any help or info is greatly appreciated." >> >> Reid, >> Why do you want new badges? Is it because the ones you have are >faded >> with >> half the silver worn off? One way to deal with this is to take off >the >> rest of the silver and make them all black. Lots of folks have done >this, >> incl me, and it looks pretty sharp. One nice way to do it is to >carefully >> wipe them off with acetone and a soft lint free cotton cloth. The >acetone >> will dissolve the top layer and careful wiping leaves a nice smooth >> surface. >> Dave C. >> From cobram at juno.com Tue Mar 6 16:35:19 2001 From: cobram at juno.com (cobram@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 20V turbo into 1991 CQ Message-ID: <20010306.163520.-1763861.1.Cobram@juno.com> "urquattro" writes: > > Finding a type 44 in a junkyard is very hard, the ones that you can The reason the junkyards here in the US usually have a good supply of type 44's can be answered in two words. Automatic Transmission. I have been after some used 5 speed specific parts for my 1984 5KS for years now, have probably come across more than 100 5K parts cars....ALL automatics, and most being parted because they needed a trannie or diff. On this note....does anyone have any links to the pre-type 44 5K's, specifically I'm looking for a site with decent interior pics, I suspect the interior for the 1984 type 44 was carried over from the previous model for the first year. (The window switches are in the console, not on the door, along with other differences that make 1985 and up type 44's incompatible donor cars.) BCNU, Cobram@Juno.Com http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. From JArchibald at whpacific.com Tue Mar 6 13:38:00 2001 From: JArchibald at whpacific.com (Jon Archibald) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: urq/5k Parts for Sale Message-ID: Hello all, Taking care of 3 q-cars out of my tiny single car garage can be a little cramped sometimes, even more so when spare parts start to pile up. I'd really like to keep this stuff around for future needs, but there is just no room. Buyer pays cost+shipping in advance. Write for more info and/or pictures. used urq stuff: -good cond. A/C hardware including newer compressor, condenser, canister (may not fit all urq's-write for details)-$150 -OE front single piston brake calipers w/carriers (from '82)-$60 -OE front brake rotors from '82-recently turned, no warps or lips-$50 -OE rear brakes from '82 (no carriers) (left side working, I screwed up the right pretty bad trying to bore a new bleeder valve, but may be rebuildable)-$40 used 5k stuff: -power steering pump ('99 rebuild)-fits 5kcsq/5ksq, probably others-$50 -oil cooler (no leaks) for 5kcsq (turbo) (won't fit N/A 5k)-$25 Thanks Jon 85 urq 86 5kcsq 87 5ksq From syljay at optonline.net Tue Mar 6 16:48:02 2001 From: syljay at optonline.net (S. Jaworski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: 87 5kcstq Dead Fuel Pump Troubleshooting References: <200103062038.PAA24434@audifans.com> Message-ID: <007901c0a687$1ece3480$0c54be18@pentium450> I called my parts supplier. 443 906 087BE cross references back to 447 906 091C . Family album calls out 447 906 091C in illustration 24-10 "My price(repair shop price)" would be $235 . . . . . can't beat Linda's price of $199 !!! . . + shipping. I would'nt jump to conclusions yet about what failed. Does'nt sound like you did enough troubleshooting yet. I have never tested fuel pump on a 5k yet, but if I were doing it: 1. I would check fuel pump output . . . perhaps disconnect at fuel filter and see what comes out? I always wanted to put some kind of quick connector/adapter at this point for measuring fuel pressure . . . anybody out there done anything like that? 2. If #1 fails, check for 12v at fuel pump . . . or closest connector to fuel pump 3. If #2 fails, check for 12v at some halfway point between fuel pump and battery . . . check schematic 4. Keep working your way back to the battery Ahhh . .what the hell . .I'll do it for you. a.) Green/Yellow wire at fuel pump . . . looks like a connector there . . Brown wire is ground . . . Green/Yellow is +12V b.) Green/Yellow wire goes to fuse S13, 15amps c.) Fuse S13 goes to Fuel Pump Relay d.) Fuel Pump Relay goes to Battery e.) I think you can jump out that fuel pump relay with a fuse .. there is a connector on top of relay for that. Hope that helps Now, lets get back to that Mime/No Mime stuff. Syl 88 5kq 90 100q > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2001 10:31:17 -0800 > From: Motor Sport Visions Photography > To: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: 87 5kcstq Dead Fuel Pump Troubleshooting > > In between arguments over mime/no mime html/no html, etc. I would like > to reach out to you all and ask for a wee bit of "no start" > troubleshooting help. Some may recall my first post on this > yesterday...a couple folks suggested the fuel pump relay, thank you! > But, I had already changed it :( > > The car now sits safely in my carport awaiting my time to properly > troubleshoot it, but based on the way it died my focus is on the Fuel > Pump. When running ECU output tests with a new FP Relay the FP did not > make any noise, but that was troubleshooting streetside in a rain storm > so who knows. > > I have the book-o-Bentley and decent troubleshooting skills so I am > pretty clear on how to determine if the FP is my problem. > > My specific questions are: > > 1. Does the tank really need to be drained to R&R the fuel pump? > (Suggestions??? Siphon into another car or???) > > 2. Anyone know where the best place to get a fuel pump is these days? (TPC wants for P/N 447 906 091C $199.00 and Linda wants P/N 443 906 087BE $190.00 which is supposed to be the latest "sub") I imagine > Carlsen/Linda is the way to go? > > 3. I'll try searching the archives for the old tank screen threads, but > in case I don't dig them up can someone remind me with BTDT info on what > I need to look for/do there? > > TIA! Now we may return to our MIME/HTML on/off issues ;-) > > Mike Veglia > Motor Sport Visions Photography > http://www.motorsportvisions.com > From j_shost at excite.com Tue Mar 6 14:01:56 2001 From: j_shost at excite.com (John Shost) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: W8 Engine Information Message-ID: <31847671.983916116535.JavaMail.imail@bronty> pic @ On Tue, 6 Mar 2001 08:03:12 -0600, Sperry, Peter A -Syntegra US wrote: > Maybe I'm out of the loop, but I keep hearing about the "W8" engine from > VW/Audi, but I can't find anything on either of their websites. What is the > W8 and where can I get more info (URL's etc.) on this engine? > > Peter > > '88 5KSQ > '90 90Q20v _______________________________________________________ Send a cool gift with your E-Card http://www.bluemountain.com/giftcenter/ From Audimobiles at aol.com Tue Mar 6 17:09:16 2001 From: Audimobiles at aol.com (Audimobiles@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:09:47 2003 Subject: subaru gets it, will Mitsu? Message-ID: God, somebody make me stop drooling over this WRX...the free 1 year SCCA membership makes it even harder to fight off buying a new car. One thing that's stopping me is I've heard the new Mitsu Lancer Evo VII might make its way to the states after WRX sales are