MC hall sender same used in 93-95 Golf/Jetta, replacement report

Eric Maxon emaxon at
Thu Oct 11 16:10:32 EDT 2001


        I'm in the process of replacing the hall sender in a 1990 200,
        and read Peter Berrevoets' post suggesting the Bosch Part
        Number: 1 230 329 038 .  I've decided to install a used sender
        from an older distributor, but during my search for a
        resonably priced example of the above number, I found that
        this is the same hall sender used in 1993-1995 Golf/Jetta
        III's with the 2.0L motor. This tidbit may help the next poor
        soul w/ a no-start MC engined car find a cheaper used (or new)
        example.  FYI, Bernard Littau is right on in describing how
        difficult it is to punch out the pin securing the pinion to
        the distributor shaft-- You (next poor soul) should watch out
        for 3 things:

        1. Be very careful to support the pinion in such a way that
        you can strike the pin with extreme brutality w/o digging the
        pinion teeth into anything.

        2. Use the closest size punch you can find to the diameter of
        the small end of the pin because...

        3. The pin is made of a very soft metal, and mushroomed out
        when struck-- You'll need a very sharp chisel (or file I
        suppose) to trim off the "mushroom head" as you continue to
        beat on the pin.

        As for retrofitting an older hall sender, I'm using the sender
        from a 1984 NA car w/ a substantially different distributor,
        mounting plate, etc, and even a different molding for the
        plug, but, it still fits perfectly... Instead of the plug
        snapping onto the mounting plate, it slides tightly into the
        slot in the side of the distributor body.

        Tips for R&R the sensor:

        1.  File the back of the rivet heads securing the dead sensor
        flat with a file (they are pointed!) before attempting to
        center-punch & drill.

        2.  Just drill the heads of the rivets out-- Don't drill all
        the way through-- You'll want plenty of material to tap on the
        keeper sensor, and to retain the proper ID of the holes in the
        keeper plate.

        3.  *Slightly* ream the holes in the keeper mounting plate to
        allow you to fit the old rivets of the "new" sensor through.
        (Unless you're a surgeon, they are likely to be a bit
        dog-eared after you drill them out.)

        4.  Secure the "new" sensor from the bottom w/ machine screws
        threaded into the center of the rivets.

        5.  Be certain that the trigger wheel is in no way
        bent/distorted-- make sure that it turns freely at +/- 2.5mm
        of axial thrust-- remember how much axial slop the shaft had
        before you pulled the pinion-- you don't want to do this again
        do you?


Best regards,
 Eric                          mailto:aud at

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