'88 5kcstq mods
Mon, 19 Mar 2001 12:28:10 -0700
Fun stuff. This weekend, I replaced my pass. window regulator,
installed a boost gauge, strapped my IC, replaced my ecu with a
TAP chipped one, and replaced the WG spring with a TAP one.
The car is now much quicker under boost. The gauge seems to
read around 12 psi, usually overshooting it by one psi when it
I think when I first drove it, I was getting more like 14 psi. I don't
know why it is different now. Maybe I have a leak now somewhere,
or it took a while to settle in(?). Am I seeing the boost I should be.
When it kicks in, it kicks in pretty good. It's requires a bit of a
different driving style. Are there any resources describing
techniques for driving a turbo car (clutch slippage, rev range, part-
throttle shifting w/o a bypass valve, etc)?
I wonder how much more quickly the boost would build if I put in a
pressure valve/manual boost controller, that would keep any boost
pressure from reaching the WG controller until it reached a specific
pressure. This is like one of the two valves used in the
autospeed.com MBC they put on an ur-S4. This is not a bleeder,
nor does the specific valve I'm talking about affect how much boost
is produced, only how quickly.
I want to put in the stock bypass valve that I bought. I got a plastic
fitting and some cement from the hardware store. It idea is to glue
it through a hole in the right IC end cap from the inside like Peter (I
think it was) did. The plastic fitting I bought was the gray plastic
type. "80" was the type or series of plastic, as opposed to "40" or
something which was used to describe the white pvc. Does
anyone know if I've got the best plastic for this type of application?
I didn't find any of the black plastic in the right diameter. Would
this be better to use?
I think for the return for the bypass valve, I'd like to just take out the
metal intake pipe, and find some radiator shop or someplace to
weld a 1" metal fitting onto it. I'll have to do some trial fitting to
mark the spot for the hole/fitting.
I mounted my boost gauge in the center of the dash where the
switches are ('88 5kcstq), on the left of the switches. This required
removing metal, which justified the purchase of a Dremel. I was
quite surprised to find that the exposed dashboard area was metal!
I thought it was plastic. I got it to fit there very nicely.
The gauge is an autometer, the silver style. It looks really good
with the red bulb sock to make it match the rest of the dash
I'll get some pics up later, after I get some pc things squared away.
Thanks for all the help with where to tap into the pressure signal for
the gauge, and the carbon canister valve thing...
Oh yeah, my carbon canister valve is currently not really
connected. I plugged the intake boot hole, and am awaiting the
arrival of the used replacement valve. No noticeable difference w/o
it, and it's nice to be able to drive.
Hey, btw, does a free flow exhaust help spool up? I'm thinking the
turbo can spin freely until the intake pressure gets to a certain
point, then the impeller has to stop or slow down until the pressure
can go somewhere? I'm trying to ask if a free flow exhaust
specifically helps spool up as opposed to max boost or power
'88 5kcstq, eurolights, TAP stage I, strapped IC, mechanical boost
gauge, bypass valve soon