'91 200q drive shaft bearing/BMW p/n?

james accordino ssgacc@yahoo.com
Sat, 5 May 2001 17:26:01 -0700 (PDT)

--- Steve Marinello <smarinello@newpark.com> wrote:
> Anyone know offhand the p/n for the BMW part that
> subs for the drive shaft
> support bearing on the '91 200q?
> Thanks,
> Steve
--- Avi Meron <avim@pacbell.net> wrote:
> This should do it Phil
> OK guys,
> > I stopped by a local M-B dealer and matched up the
> bearing and the
> > rubber cap against the M-B parts. Below are the
> long awaited part
> > numbers:
> >
> > Both parts are from a 240D or 300D, chassis # 123:
> >
> > Bearing: 0039812325
> * Rubber cap: 1234101081
> Take care,
> Avi

I posted this previously and can confirm the p/n's are
correct.  I paid $9 for the bearing and $15 for the
support from Import Parts Specialists in Boise, Idaho
on 21 Dec 99.  The support is NOT an exact match and
does require modifications.  I used the Audi strap and
the new ring.  It is made by Febi.  It is attached to
it's own strap by 7 spot welds and 2 tack welds on
both ends.  I ground off the tack welds and drilled
out the spot welds.  The pieces will seperate pretty
easily, but the Febi ring is a lighter gauge steel and
will bend pretty easily.  My welder did a great job
joining them without melting the rubber.  The u-joint
is also available from AEC Products in Defiance, Ohio.
 They have a web site.  Rod at the Parts Connection
has the end CV's if you need them.  My u-joint and
CV's were in great shape.  If the shaft is aligned
properly and greased, there is almost no stress on
this thing.  If you are careful, you can remove the
u-joint without damaging it.  The AEC bearing is p/n
1677.  26mm cap dia. and 70mm cross.  Center grease
fitting.  Save yourself some money and buy a good
quality sealed ball bearing sized 30mm x 55 mm x 13mm.
 I took some video of this sh*t, if anyone can make
pics out of VHS, let me know.

Jim Accordino

more follow up-I now have 5k miles on this set-up and
so far it works great.  No noises/issues.  I did NOT
put any type of threadlocker on the CV joint to flange
bolts after removing the locktite red.  I checked the
bolts twice; once at about 100 miles along with a
through inspection of the center section itself and
again at about 2500 miles.  All the bolts were fully
tight using a torque wrench to verify.