rear tie rods and front struts

james accordino ssgacc at
Tue Aug 13 14:59:03 EDT 2002

I agree.  I read this in someone elses mail also.  If
the car has 10k on it and you're going to aftermarket
carts., of course replace them through the top.  Same
goes for first time replacement if under 100k-150k.
BUT if it's 175-180k or more and you plan on keeping
the car for a while, I think you NEED to remove,
clean, examine and replace and suspect or worn parts.
I follow the same guidelines Huw does.  If I'm opening
it up anyway, I'm replacing all the rubber/wear parts
while I'm in there.  It's actually much easier and
cheaper in the long run if you've got a high mileage
car.  Plus I don't like getting stranded and my cars
DON'T strand me.  Something to think about, maybe.

Jim Accordino

--- Ameer Antar <antar at> wrote:
> Usually, it's a good idea to examine and replace
> worn parts in the suspension
> when replacing shocks. I live in New England and the
> roads are harsh in winter,
> with salt and cold attacking the metal and rubber. I
> know there will be a ton of
> worn parts in my 5kT, so that's what I'll have to
> do.  But, if the suspension in the
> car is in good shape, and it's just bad shocks, then
> replacing the inserts from the
> top is the way to go. I think all of us could
> benefit from a reasonably priced tool,
> especially for those who want to experiment w/
> different types of shocks...I'd buy
> one.
> -ameer
> ---Original Message---
> >
> >To: Ameer Antar <antar at>
> >From: B Vibert <blur at>
> >Date: 8/13/2002 4:11:29 PM
> >Subject: Re: rear tie rods and front struts
> >
> >To simply do 5k strut inserts you don't have to
> remove the strut. I
> >borrowed the factory tool for the weekend and made
> a copy, it works
> >great, just pull everything out from the top.   I
> can do both struts
> >in about half and hour without even jacking up the
> car.
> >
> >Maybe I should market these tools, hmmm.
> >
> >Burl Vibert
> >1987 5kcstq
> >Kingston, Ontario
> >
> >
> >Ameer Antar wrote:
> >>
> >> I don't know about the rear, as I have a 5kT, but
> for the front, you can get
> >away
> >> w/ normal shadetree tools. That's one of the
> reason's why I think the Haynes
> >as
> >> well Bentley manuals are important to have
> around. The Bentley tells you how
> >
> >> Audi wants you to do it, and the Haynes gives you
> how an actual mechanic
> migh
> >t
> >> go at it. Anyway, for the front, you just need to
> be able to loosen the drive
> >shaft
> >> nuts, using a 32mm socket and breaker bar. Then
> you need to remove the tie-
> ro
> >d
> >> from the strut assembly. Also you need to
> separate the lower control arm ball
> >-joint
> >> from the assembly. After that you just remove the
> 3 outer nuts around the str
> >ut
> >> mounting and the whole assembly willl come out
> after pressing out the drivesh
> >aft
> >> from the hub. Beyond that, when disassembling the
> unit, you need a spring-
> >> compressor.

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