christmasexhaust stud r&r /torque for head bolts?

james accordino ssgacc at
Thu Dec 19 16:47:22 EST 2002

Just my experience, but I used new studs in retapped
holes, cleaned with brake clean and embeddded with
blue loctite.  I then used new thick washers and
mechanical locking studs.  All stock. Worked well so
far.  Just my $.02.

Jim Accordino

--- scott thomas <scott at> wrote:
> Well, looks like I'll be using the thick washers
> underneath the
> shouldered nuts :)
> Next question, I don't want to do this job again and
> am afraid of the
> bolts loosening. Do I need blue loctite for the
> nuts? I'm definately
> not going to use the red on the studs, as per
> another's
> recommendation.
> Too bad the entire job (with new head and turbo and
> oil lines) was
> done just before I got the car. To make it easy, I
> might just pull
> one of the mc1 heads out of my storage unit, along
> with one of my
> uncracked exhaust manifolds and build them up to be
> ready. I just
> need to swap the cams and the intake manifold. Any
> cons in swapping
> the cams, but not the bearings? While I'm there,
> I'll swap the
> lifters out of the head that's on the car (known
> good) to the
> replacement. The replacement doesn't have too many
> miles, but just
> want to be sure.
> Torque specs for the head bolts are needed, too.
> I'll go in stages,
> too.
> A funny conversation with Rod @TPC yesterday:
> So Rod, what do you drive? I had an 87.5 Coupe, but
> I didn't have
> enough time to drive it anymore. We had a chuckle
> about the old Audis
> being the only cars you don't have enough time to
> drive because of
> things like this that come up :)
> The Official Dream Theater Site -
> Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at

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