broken stud removal
ssgacc at yahoo.com
Fri Dec 20 14:56:29 EST 2002
That's really weird. On the second job I used a dot
of the yellow marker paint that junkyards always have.
My dad gave it to me. It's called Nissen "Metal
Marker". It becomes like an epoxy or something. In
every case, it was the studs backing out of the head,
not the nuts. In fact, that's been my best shot at
removing broken studs. If I heat the aluminum around
the broken stud and freeze it, I can screw them out by
89 200q-all studs "blued" in place and still holding.
--- R Mangas <porter_dog at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Dig ;). Still maintain that in that zone you
> could use silly putty in
> place of blue locktite for the same net effect.
> Typically I go the other
> way and use antisieze...
> >From: james accordino <ssgacc at yahoo.com>
> >To: R Mangas <porter_dog at hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Re: broken stud removal
> >Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 17:03:51 -0800 (PST)
> >We're talking about the theaded portion of the
> >not the nuts. We loctite (blue) them into the
> >because they'll back out negating the new nuts and
> >washers. Dig? If the nuts are torqued, but the
> >back out of the head, you lose. BTDT x 2. Now I
> >retap and loctite only all new studs.
> >Jim Accordino
> >--- R Mangas <porter_dog at hotmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > If you can get it out and the threads are
> clean, I
> > > wouldn't helicoil. RE:
> > > loctite, neither of the options you mentioned
> > > (red/blue) will hold up under
> > > exhaust manifold heat. Use those ovaled nuts,
> > > torque them down, leave them
> > > alone, and hope for the best. If you're
> > > scaredy you could safety
> > > wire them, but that's a hard job.
> > >
> > > $0.02,
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