JB weld (was In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement)

R Mangas porter_dog at hotmail.com
Tue Dec 24 09:07:50 EST 2002

James might well be right about JB weld and creep, but FWIW the specs say
it's good to 600F!  I love that stuff :)


>From: <James at ringsperformance.com>
>To: "Alan Kramer" <ackramer at hotmail.com>, <quattro at audifans.com>
>Subject: Re: In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement
>Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2002 22:45:10 -0700
>Haudi and happy holidays to all.
>How about drilling a coaxial hole from the front and driving it out with a
>drift? Or threading the hole and screwing it out. Any polymer-based
>material (epoxy, JB weld, etc) will likely suffer too much creep under the
>amazing g loads and temps inside the bell housing.
>cu, James Marriott
>'87 4kq (alias "late-B2 90q") with rare ersatz NG engine, 184k, being
>restored from rear-end total loss
>'89 200q (MC1, ProconTen/no bag, 1.8 blah blah), 142k, already been
>Boise, ID, USA     http://www.webpak.net/~marriott/
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alan Kramer" <ackramer at hotmail.com>
>To: <quattro at audifans.com>
>Sent: Monday, December 23, 2002 7:15 AM
>Subject: In-situ flywheel timing pin replacement
> > I've got a need for a creative solution here...   Have a car with a
> > pin that's now only 5mm long.  It should be 12mm.  Problem is that it no
> > longer passes in front of the crank position sensor so the CPS no longer
> > picks it up.
> >
> > I'd like to fix this w/o pulling the tranny.  I have decent access to it
> > through the starter hole.

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