conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu
Tue Feb 19 11:23:18 EST 2002
> The whole calpier is replaceable. In my experience, i would highly
>I know the are expensive but its worth it! if you get them to work correctly,
>the are just going to screw up again.
I've had some experience with these, and I agree with Jeremy.
I'll add a couple of points...
#1. DO NOT use "penetrating oil" on the e-brake mechanism! Penetrant is
usually some kind of solvent/corrosive intended to free up rusted bolts,
etc. It is guaranteed to ruin any remaining function you may have had in
the mechanism. If you doubt this, try an experiment with two bolts... soak
one in oil, soak the other in Kroil (penetrant). "Lubricant" is what Fred
Munro and others are recommending that we use ... not penetrant.
#2. Once the shaft seal is damaged, you might as well start budgeting to
replace the caliper. If you want to ensure total siezure, drip some Kroil
down the shaft. Yes, the seal is replaceable, but good luck finding the
right size, etc. Also, disassembly/reassembly of the internal mechansim is
#3. rebuilt vs. new calipers ... Rebuilt is usually less costly than new,
but others have warned that rear caliper rebuilds are not all equal and
many are poorly done. Last time I checked with Rod at TPC he told me he
does not sell used calipers because he hasn't found a reliable rebuilder.
I have heard there are reliable rebuilders but I don't know any to
recommend. I think I remember someone once wrote that Beck-Arnley was
reliable? Maybe someone else can chime in here. Also ... a rebuilt
caliper most likely will need to be painted. It will be bare metal and
rust like the devil if you don't paint it, so factor that into the decision
re: new vs rebuilt. Front calipers are entirely different and relatively
easy to rebuild properly.
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