Mounting Race Harness in Type 44

Fri Jan 11 08:28:04 EST 2002

[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]
The bolt only needs to be longer (I believe I use a 10mm longer bolt) to
accomodate the thickness of 2 belt mounts, not so long as to "interfere" with
anything.  I've done this a couple times with the 44 chassis cars, I know it
works.  The problem with using the stock bolt on  piggybacked belts, is that
the bolt only threads in a couple turns.  IMS, the rule of thumb for bolt
threads into a nut/receiver is 9turns, I use 10 min.  On piggy backed
mountings you will get about 4 max.

Mounting thru the tunnel is probably the best and safest, but indeed a PITA.
I've also seen several IT/race setups that go to the floor behind the seat
itself.  The most ingenious (not recommending necessarily, it had no papers
on legality) I've worked on is on a 5ktq race car that the guy made a rail
with 2 runners that slid into the stock seat tracks, butted into place by the
stock seat sleds, and under load locked into the teeth of the rail (two
mounting tabs for seat belts attachment).  The nice thing about this system
was the location mounts (constant in relation to seat bottom/back) regardless
of seat fore aft movement.  Race rule of thumb, make the mounts and safety
for YOU alone.  For daily drivers/weekend warrior prep, I'd take the
preference of mounts allowing fore/aft adjustment.


Scott Justusson
QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
Peter G writes:
>The problem with longer bolt is clearance on the seat frame.  I
don'treallythink you >can go much longer than the stock bolt.  Looks like the
plateand a bolt through is >the way to go for me.  I would assume that a
platewelded on the underside would >make for a stronger mount point but
moreof a PITA to prep/weld?Thanks--Peter >Golledge

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