10V head ID questions
Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:28:02 -0400
>But my '83 has the solid-lifter head, as I understand it; I'm getting a
>hydraulic cam, in part because I figured on doing the head (at least a val=
>job and possibly cleaning up the ports) before the swap, so it made sense =
>get a used hydro head, do the work when convenient, and then swap it all
>over at once (oh and why not do the timing belt while you're at it...).
>So I'm open to suggestions on good 10V heads to build up -- whether in ter=
>of donor cars or in terms of suppliers. =A0I'm aware that at least some of=
>2.3L engines mount the injectors in the manifold, not the head, and I don't
>really feel like swapping out all the FI plumbing, wiring, etc. =A0I'm
>consciously trading away an "ultimate" engine in exchange for simplicity,
>overall cost, and reliability.
>What years should I ask for when I shop the used parts places? =A0Is there=
>particular year/part number I should look for, or just as important one I
>should stay away from?
Scott, you can use any of these with good results: JT (85-87 4kq or Cgt), N=
F (late 100 2.3 with bigger intake valves but injectors still in the head),=
any of the 2.2 NA 5k heads, you could even use an MC head if you wanted (w=
ith sodium exh. valves). The NG you'll want to stay away from.
>(Side question: is there an easy way to ID a
>hydraulic head externally, without pulling the cam and popping out a lifte=
Well, if the cam cover is off, you can see the lifters just fine without pu=
lling the cam. If the cam cover is on, chances are its still on a motor, o=
r in a car, in which case you'll be able to identify the application.
>I'm picturing myself standing beside a pick-your-part hulk with no obvious
>identifying marks showing what year it is, but able to read, say, a casting
>number on the head...)
Hmm, you should be able to tell if the car is a T81 or 85, etc, just by the=
dash, body work, etc.