From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Wed Jan 1 00:14:27 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:48 2003 Subject: Happy New Year to all! Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030101001310.00ac6d38@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> I just wanted to wish a Happy New Year to all of you! May the new year bring you joy, love, money and less issues with your Audis! Mihnea From klkinc at gis.net Wed Jan 1 00:37:35 2003 From: klkinc at gis.net (Kevin Kingan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:48 2003 Subject: 1988 Audi 90 Q For Sale Message-ID: <002101c2b157$e3c980a0$8169d63f@pc> For Sale 1988 Audi 90 Quattro, with 110,000 miles, Diamond Schwarz(Blk) Metallic, with Grey Leather. All options except Headlight Washers. Car is in Great shape, for its age. Interior is Perfect!! New parts include new Full exhaust with Stebro muffler, New Spax springs and shocks all around(also have H & R) New windshield, Timing Belt just done. All new Synthetic fluids, (Trans, Diff, Rear end) Has good set of 4 Snows on it. Many Extra Euro Parts too!! Well Maintained by Mechanic. Ready for Snow!! Asking $2500 or B/O. Hate to part with but Need to sell quickly because new car is waiting!!! Email or Call Kevin at (508)-238-8210 anytime before 11pm EST. Email @ klkinc@gis.net Car Located in Mass (North Easton MA just south of Boston) Will meet within reason From ricematthews at msn.com Wed Jan 1 01:23:48 2003 From: ricematthews at msn.com (ricematthews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:48 2003 Subject: Tires Message-ID: <001101c2b15e$59b87c20$adb69d40@k6m9q4> To address the issue of 195 as the tire width, I'm sure there are Plus 0 options that you can use for the A6 Avant which will 1) enable you to expand your options, 2) give you better grip and more agressive looks and 3) still allow you to use your stock wheels. Assuming your stock tires are 195/65/15's, 205/60/15 should be an acceptable alternative. 215/60/15 is probably as well. -Mark ********************************************* The last tires I put on my 5000CS and then my 200 CS Quattro wagons were Firestone Firehawk Touring LH radials. Wonderful handling, riding, and lasting tires for really good prices when I bought them. I bought one of the first sets available in Maine, actually, for my 5000 CS wagon, and when I took that car to auction, I replaced them with some 'rubber', and kept the LH's for the "new" to me, 200. It was very disappointing to me to find out that my wife's "new" '94 100 CS Avant has so few choices in tires, due to the 195 tire size. Roger From rmwoodbury at downeast.net Wed Jan 1 03:15:12 2003 From: rmwoodbury at downeast.net (Roger M. Woodbury) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:48 2003 Subject: Tires References: <001101c2b15e$59b87c20$adb69d40@k6m9q4> Message-ID: <000401c2b16d$e97b9fe0$8686ccd8@tomcat> You are correct...almost. The only alternative that I would be willing to use is one that creates no alteration in the overall diameter of the tire/wheel ensemble. In the past when I have looked at this approach with other vehicles that I have owned, there is always a difference...however small...when an alternative, or plus Zero option is used. On the 100CS we will probably maintain it in "box-stock" configuration. The tires on the car right now are Continental somethings, that were installed by the selling dealer just before we bought the car. It had 39,000 miles in June, 2001, and had been traded wearing the OEM tires. According to the dealer they were changed due to age, as there was some tread remaining. Now with 60,000 miles and a smidgen more, the Continentals are doing fine, but will have to be replaced by next fall for certain, as they will serve through this winter, but not next. Thirty thousand miles and two winters is spot on to what I have found my Audi Quattro wagons could do reliably on "All Season" tires. If I could use the 206/60/15 size with zero change in tire diameter, and I haven't looked at this up to this point, then I would use the Touring LH tire again. Overall on my Audi wagons, that tire was the best that I have ever used, including the new Michelins that were on the 5000CS when I bought that car, ten years ago. Roger ----- Original Message ----- From: "ricematthews" To: Cc: ; Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 1:23 AM Subject: Re: Tires > To address the issue of 195 as the tire width, I'm sure there are Plus 0 > options that you can use for the A6 Avant which will 1) enable you to expand > your options, 2) give you better grip and more agressive looks and 3) still > allow you to use your stock wheels. > > Assuming your stock tires are 195/65/15's, 205/60/15 should be an acceptable > alternative. 215/60/15 is probably as well. > > -Mark > > ********************************************* > The last tires I put on my 5000CS and then my 200 CS Quattro wagons were > Firestone Firehawk Touring LH radials. > > Wonderful handling, riding, and lasting tires for really good prices when I > bought them. I bought one of the first sets available in Maine, actually, > for my 5000 CS wagon, and when I took that car to auction, I replaced them > with some 'rubber', and kept the LH's for the "new" to me, 200. > > It was very disappointing to me to find out that my wife's "new" '94 100 CS > Avant has so few choices in tires, due to the 195 tire size. > > Roger > > > > > From iain.atkinson at tesco.net Wed Jan 1 13:00:28 2003 From: iain.atkinson at tesco.net (iain.atkinson@tesco.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Computer Prob Now Solved Message-ID: <20030101130028.RVHN21072.mta2-svc.business.ntl.com@[10.137.101.71]> This is a big thank you to all who replied to my problem with the dispaly on my laptop, i have now re installed the video drivers and all seems to be well again. So thanks again to all who replied very much appreciated. Happy New Year Iain From porter_dog at hotmail.com Wed Jan 1 09:46:34 2003 From: porter_dog at hotmail.com (R Mangas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 4000q rear clunk Message-ID: Very common; I've not repaired it on either of my 4kq's but believe it to be the rubber bushings in the differential mounts. I've heard some others suggest it could be tranny mounts as well- actual source may be moot in that at this age all of them should likely need replaced anyway :) hth, Robert >From: "Rich Walker" >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: 4000q rear clunk >Date: 1 Jan 2003 01:38:27 -0000 > >Hi. > >I'm in the market for an 85-87 4kq. Two that I've driven recently have had >an audible "clunk" coming from the rear differential area when letting the >clutch out after shifting. Both had around 130k miles. One seller >suggested the noise was caused by worn "rubber stoppers". Any suggestions >on what the cause of this could be and possible expense of repair? >Thanks for your help > >Rich Walker >Portland, OR _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From ricematthews at msn.com Wed Jan 1 10:12:51 2003 From: ricematthews at msn.com (ricematthews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Tires References: <001101c2b15e$59b87c20$adb69d40@k6m9q4> <000401c2b16d$e97b9fe0$8686ccd8@tomcat> Message-ID: <001001c2b1a8$5b503380$e8db1843@k6m9q4> 205/60/15 will probably result in a slightly smaller diameter, but there are differences in tire brands and models too. Tire Rack usually has the actual dimensions available for the tires they sell. If keeping the stock configuration is important, then yeah - your tire selections will probably be more limited, though usually cheaper. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger M. Woodbury" To: "ricematthews" Cc: ; Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 3:15 AM Subject: Re: Tires > You are correct...almost. The only alternative that I would be willing to > use is one that creates no alteration in the overall diameter of the > tire/wheel ensemble. In the past when I have looked at this approach with > other vehicles that I have owned, there is always a difference...however > small...when an alternative, or plus Zero option is used. > > On the 100CS we will probably maintain it in "box-stock" configuration. The > tires on the car right now are Continental somethings, that were installed > by the selling dealer just before we bought the car. It had 39,000 miles in > June, 2001, and had been traded wearing the OEM tires. According to the > dealer they were changed due to age, as there was some tread remaining. > > Now with 60,000 miles and a smidgen more, the Continentals are doing fine, > but will have to be replaced by next fall for certain, as they will serve > through this winter, but not next. Thirty thousand miles and two winters is > spot on to what I have found my Audi Quattro wagons could do reliably on > "All Season" tires. > > If I could use the 206/60/15 size with zero change in tire diameter, and I > haven't looked at this up to this point, then I would use the Touring LH > tire again. Overall on my Audi wagons, that tire was the best that I have > ever used, including the new Michelins that were on the 5000CS when I bought > that car, ten years ago. > > Roger > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "ricematthews" > To: > Cc: ; > Sent: Wednesday, January 01, 2003 1:23 AM > Subject: Re: Tires > > > > To address the issue of 195 as the tire width, I'm sure there are Plus 0 > > options that you can use for the A6 Avant which will 1) enable you to > expand > > your options, 2) give you better grip and more agressive looks and 3) > still > > allow you to use your stock wheels. > > > > Assuming your stock tires are 195/65/15's, 205/60/15 should be an > acceptable > > alternative. 215/60/15 is probably as well. > > > > -Mark > > > > ********************************************* > > The last tires I put on my 5000CS and then my 200 CS Quattro wagons were > > Firestone Firehawk Touring LH radials. > > > > Wonderful handling, riding, and lasting tires for really good prices when > I > > bought them. I bought one of the first sets available in Maine, actually, > > for my 5000 CS wagon, and when I took that car to auction, I replaced them > > with some 'rubber', and kept the LH's for the "new" to me, 200. > > > > It was very disappointing to me to find out that my wife's "new" '94 100 > CS > > Avant has so few choices in tires, due to the 195 tire size. > > > > Roger > > > > > > > > > > > > From crankshaft at adelphia.net Wed Jan 1 07:50:32 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: UrQ trans and diff in 4000Q Message-ID: <3E130E48.7080706@adelphia.net> Hi, I had another question about the URQ trans and rear diff. What should I pay for the set? Thanks, Aaron From ur-quattro at msn.com Wed Jan 1 08:17:32 2003 From: ur-quattro at msn.com (Doug Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter (Was: Should we be using lighter weight oil?) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000601c2b1b1$49ae90a0$1b68fa43@doug> Has anyone used the Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter? -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of R Mangas Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 10:08 PM To: desmo888@comcast.net; harchris@smokesignal.net; Greg.Roa@Cinergy.COM; quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: Should we be using lighter weight oil? That's a great question. Part of the answer lies in marketing I think- there are some posts on the oil board at www.bobistheoilguy.com indicating that M1 15w50 could be labled with a lower winter number by virtue of its actual cold viscosity but isn't. Robert From tob4000 at excite.com Wed Jan 1 13:31:42 2003 From: tob4000 at excite.com (tob4000@excite.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 4000q wheels on ebay Message-ID: <20030101183142.1A696B720@xmxpita.excite.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Fellow list members,in a blatant self-promotional attempt. I'm writing thi= s to let you know I have some wheels listed on ebay that some of you might = be interested in. They are Borbet type 'S' 15x7, with contiTouringContact = tires size 205/50/hr15. The wheels and tires have about 4000 summertime mi= les on them. They are almost perfect with a couple of scratches here and t= here. nothing very noticeable. ThanksToby Potvintob4000@excite.com _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web! From george164 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 1 10:46:26 2003 From: george164 at earthlink.net ( george nimmer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter Message-ID: Doug, I think the VAG specified Mann or Mahle oil filters are probably the best filter for our Audi's. I've had other "store" brand oil filters collapse internally (and you probably won't notice unless you have an oil pressure gauge). Every VW/Audi/Porsche mechanic I've spoken to has recommended the same thing. I believe the Mann and Mahle oil filters have a more rigid internal construction to deal with the higher oil pressures of VAG (and especially Porsche) engines. Also, they have internal pressure valves which allow the oil to bypass the filter element when it's still cold and viscus. Other filters which don't have these valves will not provide as much oil to engine until the oil gets hotter. Another consideration is the material seperating the filtered oil from the unfiltered oil inside the canister. Take the popular Orange colored filter that can be found at many parts stores. These could have the best filtering element in the world - but you wouldn't know it because the material that seperates filtered oil from unfiltered oil is a thin piece of cardboard. Thats right, cardboard - which tends to disintegrate when hot oil is flowing along side it at a high pressure. That being said, my only experience with a Mobil 1 oil filter was on my Porsche 911 SC engine. The filter collapsed internally in less than 600 miles. I've never had that problem with the Mann and Mahle filters although the 3.0 Porsche 911 engine also relies on oil for cooling, and probably has a higher pressure system than most older Audi's. Just my 2 cents. George > From: "Doug Johnson" > To: > Subject: Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter (Was: > Should we be using lighter > weight oil?) > Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 08:17:32 -0800 > > Has anyone used the Mobil 1 High Efficiency Oil Filter? From george164 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 1 10:57:29 2003 From: george164 at earthlink.net ( george nimmer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: PAYPAL MONEY MARKET FUND Message-ID: Steve, I'd avoid keeping any large sums of money in any paypal account. Paypal is not "legally" a bank, and is not FDIC insured. Also, they have the right to seize your assets in any of your accounts at any time without an explanation, and with no appeals process available. Also, all of their customer "service" is outsourced to India, and have a look at their web site - can you even find their phone number?? I know someone to whom this happened. Have a look at www.paypalsucks.com and some of the posts on that site before you make your decision. Regards, George From: "Steve Marinello" To: "audifans qlist" , Subject: PAYPAL MONEY MARKET FUND Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 23:09:38 -0600 Anyone have any opinions or experience with the Paypal MM fund? Is it worth it to set one up? ...other than to keep monies, ahem, away from the joint account? TIA, Steve From tigran at tigran.com Wed Jan 1 11:13:09 2003 From: tigran at tigran.com (Tyson Varosyan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Door handles In-Reply-To: <20030101130028.RVHN21072.mta2-svc.business.ntl.com@[10.137.101.71]> Message-ID: <007101c2b1c9$d2a3d3d0$0411030a@tyson> Well, I knew it would happen... I heard it many times that the '80s Audi door handles had problems and finally my car with almost 200k on the clock started to do it. It is the classic symptom, the little level inside needs to be pushed all the way in and even then the door is hard to open. Now I am wondering if there is a fix for this and what it takes to make it so I don't have to struggle with the door handle to get into my car. Tyson '85 4ksq From rizov_d at shaw.ca Wed Jan 1 12:26:22 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: '86 4000 csq power loss - fuel system problem Message-ID: <2dc6442db281.2db2812dc644@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hello, I'm experiencing performance loss on my '86 4000 cs q. With full throttle the limit is 130 km/h. When measured the differential pressure regulator (KE Jetronic) current is steady 17,7 mA as for rich stop. (Elevation is 3300 feet) No fluctuations. O2 sensor works (fluctuates by himself). Full throttle suitch when closed reduses current to 10.7 mA Adjustment of CO : the engine changes rpms but the readings remain 17.7 mA. Any suggestions are hihgly appreciated! Dobby From george164 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 1 11:37:15 2003 From: george164 at earthlink.net ( george nimmer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: motor oil comparison Message-ID: I found this web page and thought it might benefit someone here on the list. It is an objective comparison of popular brands and weights of motor oil. The chart provides specification numbers that are available from the oil manufacturers, and leaves the reader to form his/her own conclusions. I found it interesting... http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html See about half way down the page for the chart. Regards, George From snufy58 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 1 11:55:59 2003 From: snufy58 at yahoo.com (Greg Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: radio illumination again Message-ID: <20030101195559.41483.qmail@web11402.mail.yahoo.com> Hi all. Saw the post re: pin 3 on the radio connector providing illumination. But where does the wire attach to the harness exactly? Due to dashboard removal for heater core replacement, and various other repairs on my Syncro, the wire is now detached. I'm tired of switching on the overhead light to see how to change stations etc., at night. Anyone know where it goes? Greg 86 QSW __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From spsherm at attglobal.net Wed Jan 1 13:12:51 2003 From: spsherm at attglobal.net (Steve Sherman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5K Intercooler-Throttle Hose Message-ID: <3E134BC3.1050700@attglobal.net> On my 87 5KCSTQW I just replaced my second of these hoses in a year. This is the "Michelen-man" hose, with the corregations and the metal reinforcing rings. Two hoses in one year seems a bit much, and I was curious if any listers had any ideas of what might be causing this hose to fail so often on this car? I was thinking that perhaps an engin mount was going, causing some extra flexing in the hose. Any other ideas of what to look for? TIA From ti at amb.org Wed Jan 1 12:33:42 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: radio illumination again In-Reply-To: <20030101195559.41483.qmail@web11402.mail.yahoo.com> from "Greg Smith" at Jan 01, 2003 11:55:59 AM Message-ID: <200301012033.UAA13596@amb.org> Greg Smith writes: > Saw the post re: pin 3 on the radio connector > providing illumination. But where does the wire attach > to the harness exactly? Due to dashboard removal for > heater core replacement, and various other repairs on > my Syncro, the wire is now detached. I'm tired of > switching on the overhead light to see how to change > stations etc., at night. Anyone know where it goes? You're probably referring to my post about radio illumination for the 4000 and coupe series. Pin 3 of the connector provides radio illumination, but that comment refers *only* to the Audi Rothenburg radio setup. I don't know what radio you're running in the Quantum Syncro, so it may not apply. Anyway, on the Audi type 81/85 the radio illumination lead goes to the cigarette lighter plug illumination ring, and is daisy chained to a number of other dash illumination components, all in the same circuit downstream from the illumination dimmer rheostat. On the Quantum YMMV. You should look at the wiring diagram in the appropriate Bentley manual. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From jhanson at westmont.edu Wed Jan 1 13:08:22 2003 From: jhanson at westmont.edu (James Hanson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: rally marathon (NAC) Message-ID: <3E1358C6.9050707@westmont.edu> speed channel has a rally marathon going on at the moment. Jim From gselby4x4 at earthlink.net Wed Jan 1 15:03:26 2003 From: gselby4x4 at earthlink.net (George Selby) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4414 - 7 msgs In-Reply-To: <20030101170028.10247.50316.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <5.1.1.6.0.20030101144707.02beaec0@pop.earthlink.net> At 12:00 PM 1/1/03, you wrote: >If I could use the 206/60/15 size with zero change in tire diameter, and I >haven't looked at this up to this point, then I would use the Touring LH >tire again. Tire sizes have an industry standard 7% variance allowable from "true" dimensions stamped on the side. So a 195/65/15 has a theoretical diameter of 24.98", a 205/60/15 has a diameter of 24.68" and a 215/60/15 has a diameter of 25.15". Doing some computation, the 205/60 is 1.2% smaller in diameter than the 195/65, and the 215/65 is 0.5% larger. Both of these tires are very close in size to the stock size, and when you include industry allowable variances, you discover that either tire will not result in any noticeable speedo differences. In fact, you may discover some brands 215/60/15 are smaller in diameter than some other brands 195/65/15. What I'm trying to say, is that, in my opinion, that the "wanting it the exact diameter" is not a valid excuse for not getting larger tires in the plus 0 size, since the exact diameter is a 7% window, not an exact number, and several plus 0 sizes came within 1.2% or less of the stock size. Did you know that most German speedos read very high (they read faster than you are going, as much as 5-8 mph on BMW's for instance) to accommodate larger tires being fitted on the vehicle (German law mandates the car CANNOT be travelling faster than the speedo reads) so I would be inclined to stick on the 215/60/15's George Selby gselby4x4@earthlink.net From Stpndsmnn at aol.com Wed Jan 1 16:40:57 2003 From: Stpndsmnn at aol.com (Stpndsmnn@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Audi Starter Grounded to Block?? Message-ID: <73.2b601690.2b44ba69@aol.com> Was trying to replace the starter in my '83 CGT since the current one is 20 yrs old. Anyway, I got it all hooked up but not back into the hole, and I figured I'd give it a test with the key but nothing happens. I get all sorts of clicking from the relay but the starter does nothing. Do I just need a new relay, or does the starter ground to the block through it's mounting?? thanks Matt Kramer '83 CGTt From edkellock at juno.com Wed Jan 1 14:37:26 2003 From: edkellock at juno.com (edkellock@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: All-season tires for 5kcstq Message-ID: <20030101.144559.-1412897.0.EdKellock@juno.com> On my 89 200q, I ran my Hakka Q's one summer. Didn't do any track events of course, but they handled it well without any apparent increased wear. Ed Colorado Springs On Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:06:05 -0500 "Lee Levitt" writes: > Wallace White > > > It's about time to replace the Dunlop SP4000's on my 5kcstq. I've > been > > happy with them overall. They've done almost 50k miles and have a > bit > > left. Handling and traction have been good, noise fine. > > > > So, how's the SP5000? This would be the symmetrical version, at > > 205/60-15. I'd appreciate advice on it or other tires that might > fit the > > bill: > > - H- or V-rated all season > > - decent snow performance (I drive to Tahoe a few times a year) > > - good tread life > > - low noise > > I ran a set of SP5000s in 16" size on my wife's car. Pretty good all > around > tire, almost as good in the snow as the Nokia NRW which is on the > car now. > The Nokias are damn good all season tires...you should consider them > too. > > I just find it difficult to think of a Nokian tire for use in the > summer...been thinking of them as the ultimate in snow tires for so > long. > But the NRW is a pretty good year round tire, and the only reason I > don't > run them in the summer on the wife's car is that I have a set of > Dunlop > 9000s in a wider size for that car for the summer! > > Note, there may be some variation between 15" and 16" tire > construction and > tread, so YMMV. :) > > Lee > '95.5 S6 avant > '96 A6 quattro avant > > > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Wed Jan 1 22:10:47 2003 From: Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Audi Starter Grounded to Block?? References: <73.2b601690.2b44ba69@aol.com> Message-ID: <005a01c2b1e2$ccc234c0$de6fa8c0@rhiannon> ----- Original Message ----- From: > > does the starter ground to the block through > it's mounting?? Yes. Regards, Jim Haseltine From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jan 1 19:37:37 2003 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Door handles In-Reply-To: <007101c2b1c9$d2a3d3d0$0411030a@tyson> References: <20030101130028.RVHN21072.mta2-svc.business.ntl.com@[10.137.101.71]> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030101193038.00aee850@traverse.com> At 11:13 AM 01/01/2003 -0800, Tyson Varosyan wrote: >Well, I knew it would happen... I heard it many times that the '80s Audi >door handles had problems and finally my car with almost 200k on the clock >started to do it. It is the classic symptom, the little level inside needs >to be pushed all the way in and even then the door is hard to open. Now I am >wondering if there is a fix for this and what it takes to make it so I don't >have to struggle with the door handle to get into my car. > >Tyson '85 4ksq I've found that if you routinely (every two-three months) lubricate the handles themselves and the latches in the doorjamb that they operate, even sloppy, poorly functioning Team Doorhandle handles from the '80's can be kept in working order. I use a spray lubricant that contains a little teflon. I spray (with the ubiquitous red straw) into the handle where the actuator lever disappears, into the handle from the area available if you pop out the oval rubber plug in the edge of the door at the handle level and liberally into the latch mechanisms from every potential angle. A little operating then usually restores fading function. A little spray in the locks (doors and trunk lid) also keeps them operating despite the weather. To keep reduce wear on doorhandle parts, if you press in on the door while squeezing the trigger, it helps. From JShadzi at aol.com Wed Jan 1 19:38:12 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Audi Starter Grounded to Block?? Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I've found, however, when reloacating the battery to the trunk, that an additional ground strap form the passenger side frame rail to starter bolt may be necessary - if the battery is grounded to the rear of the same passengerside frame rail. If not done properly, the starter won't turn over. HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/1/2003 2:20:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, Jim@Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk writes: > > > > does the starter ground to the block through > >it's mounting?? > > > Yes. > > Regards, > > Jim Haseltine From knotnook at traverse.com Wed Jan 1 19:44:16 2003 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5K Intercooler-Throttle Hose In-Reply-To: <3E134BC3.1050700@attglobal.net> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030101194257.00e70830@traverse.com> At 01:12 PM 01/01/2003 -0700, Steve Sherman wrote: >On my 87 5KCSTQW I just replaced my second of these hoses in a year. >This is the "Michelen-man" hose, with the corregations and the metal >reinforcing rings. Two hoses in one year seems a bit much, and I was >curious if any listers had any ideas of what might be causing this hose >to fail so often on this car? I was thinking that perhaps an engin >mount was going, causing some extra flexing in the hose. Any other >ideas of what to look for? Usual cause of deterioration is oil from the crankcase breather system. Maybe there's excess oil in yours??? From kranski at worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 1 18:32:07 2003 From: kranski at worldnet.att.net (Danae Kranski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Looking for a new catalytic converter for a 1990 80series Q Message-ID: <000001c2b1fe$c4f0a530$6ca7510c@richardpqbzv3u> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I am finding it difficult to locate an aftermarket cat, any source suggestions? I would prefer an original style. Regards Richard -- From kranski at worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 1 18:32:07 2003 From: kranski at worldnet.att.net (Danae Kranski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Oxygen sensor test Message-ID: <000501c2b1fe$c793ffd0$6ca7510c@richardpqbzv3u> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have been trying to pass the NOx portion of an emission test and would like a practical way that I could test the O2 sensor (3 wire -2 white & 1 black) with a digital multimeter if possible. The car in question is a 1990 80 series Q, 2.3L. I have had a shop test the sensor with a scope and they said it was working fine. They also said that they enriched the mixture on this fuel injection system which I have come to find out that with the KE-Jetronic system, enrichment is not adjustable and is control by the ECU automatically. Suspicious Richard -- From kranski at worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 1 18:32:07 2003 From: kranski at worldnet.att.net (Danae Kranski) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 1990 80 series Q, vacuum pump question Message-ID: <000a01c2b1fe$ca4e64e0$6ca7510c@richardpqbzv3u> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have had an intermittent knocking coming from the vacuum pump which is mounted on the front of the engine. I removed the unit and disassembled to investigate the noise. Noted nothing abnormal but what appears to be a port plugged with silicone. This port exits forward from the pump assembly and appears that it could accept a hose fitting. Does anyone know if this port should be used and routed to some other component or blocked like it is presently? My understanding of the vacuum pump is that it is used to ensure vacuum to the brake booster diaphragm when the intake manifold vacuum is not adequate to do the job. Is there any other function it performs Regards Richard -- From msvphoto at pacbell.net Wed Jan 1 17:28:31 2003 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Motor Sport Visions Photography) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Tires Message-ID: <3E1395B7.8565EF76@pacbell.net> On the C4 chassis 100CS and A6 the stock size is 195/65/15, however the fuel door flap and owner's manual both mention 215/60/15 as an alternate size. I know what size our '95 A6q Avant will get next time ;-) (Assuming we don't manage to score a set of 16" takeoffs from someone's A4 that is.) Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From rizov_d at shaw.ca Wed Jan 1 20:56:03 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq Message-ID: <2f9f2b2f9845.2f98452f9f2b@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hello, Could anybody help me to clarify what a"rich stop" on CIS- E (KE Jetronic) means('86 4ksq)? What could cause the current when measured at differential pressure regulator to stay steady at 17,7 mA. This value is described as "rich stop"- 10 mA above normal readings, but I could not find eventual explanations what causes that condition. Any help is highly appreciated. Dobby From bswann at worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 1 23:08:25 2003 From: bswann at worldnet.att.net (Ben Swann) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5K Intercooler-Throttle Hose Message-ID: <01C2B1EA.B38819E0.bswann@worldnet.att.net> Steve, I was blowing mine at 2 bar boost without a bypass valve installed. I have had no problems after I installed the bypass valve. Oh, I did keep from blowing them by wrapping lots of hose bandage tape, with silicone sealant inside the tape. It would not blow, but was plain ugly. Ben Happy New year to all. Sad story forthcoming. [On my 87 5KCSTQW I just replaced my second of these hoses in a year. This is the "Michelen-man" hose, with the corregations and the metal reinforcing rings. Two hoses in one year seems a bit much, and I was curious if any listers had any ideas of what might be causing this hose to fail so often on this car? I was thinking that perhaps an engin mount was going, causing some extra flexing in the hose. Any other ideas of what to look for? TIA] From bswann at worldnet.att.net Wed Jan 1 23:22:47 2003 From: bswann at worldnet.att.net (Ben Swann) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Very Sad story about my avant Message-ID: <01C2B1EC.B5142630.bswann@worldnet.att.net> [During this drive I figured something out. It appears that many if not most drivers are instant hazards. Just add water in any form. Bob] Well, this driver did not need water or alcohol ( I don't think) - somewhat geriatric and just wasn't paying attention. Made a left turn right in front of my '87 turbo quattro avant while I was transporting family to a Chrismas Party. Well we were very late for the party, and the avant never made it. It will not be going anywhere soon if at all. It's a damn shame, and I have been trying to keep from getting depressed as I have tallyed my time and expenses in the car to over $17K, mostly this year with all the work I've done. One minute near perfect, next minute totalled. I am thankful that no one was hurt. I am also thankful it was not my fault, so I will at least get something. I am glad I did a good job of recordkeeping and have a spreadsheet of expenses and the receipts to back it up. For those who have had questions regarding how this might work with insurance, stay tuned. I'll try to post pics and spreadsheet, as it shows good stuff on cost of ownership of these cars, even if you go overboard. Ben (now sad) and looking for a replacement ( see marketplace for details). '87 5000 CS turbo quattro avant 160kmiles - to not yet RIP! Car was in near perfect condition without a spot of rust - underneath looks new. Engine rebuilt in April '02 incl. following - T03/K26 hybrid turbo. Elgin 260i254e cam adjustable cam sprocket - currently set for 0 new valve seals, lifters & techtonics springs new piston rings, connecting rod and main bearings, all new seals. 2-Piece Exhaust manifold, highflow cat and 2.5" Stebro exhaust. All visible casting flash removed from components. Mild port and polish to head and manifolds with ports matched. Bypass valve located in intercooler where untapped hole was with bypass flow directed toward turbo Supplementary fuel injector installed in intercooler controlled by 034EFI - injector is inline just prior to throttle body hose. 200 Flywheel, Clutch and Pressure plate, slave cyl. QLCC chip with variable resistor modded ECU, Schrapnel Knob + 2 bar SJM spring for control - currently set for 16 PSI. I can at least tell the engine is salvageable. From spsherm at attglobal.net Wed Jan 1 22:25:29 2003 From: spsherm at attglobal.net (Steve Sherman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5K Intercooler-Throttle Hose References: <4.3.2.7.2.20030101194257.00e70830@traverse.com> Message-ID: <3E13CD49.1050401@attglobal.net> Probably is. Seemd to have a bit more than usual, but I did not think excessive... What would the possible causes of excess oil from the breather system be? Kneale Brownson wrote: > > Usual cause of deterioration is oil from the crankcase breather > system. Maybe there's excess oil in yours??? > From Stpndsmnn at aol.com Thu Jan 2 00:33:27 2003 From: Stpndsmnn at aol.com (Stpndsmnn@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Starter help Thanks Message-ID: <4d.29b2dcbd.2b452927@aol.com> Thanks for confirming that the starter does ground through it's casing. The Biggest trouble was that I was installing what I guess is a later, larger starter. The small terminals are a different style than the original and I had to do some retrofitting. Works great now, The new starter has no trouble turning the I-5, takes about a half turn and the engine fires right up. Wish I would have done that sooner.... Thanks again Matt Kramer From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Thu Jan 2 06:55:07 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Very Sad story about my avant In-Reply-To: <01C2B1EC.B5142630.bswann@worldnet.att.net> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030102065321.02b16d20@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> I'm sad to hear that Ben!! As you said it, hopefully no one was hurt and it wasn't your fault! Keep us posted on the insurance details! Mihnea At 23:22 1/01/2003 -0500, Ben Swann wrote: >[During this drive I figured something out. It appears that many if not >most drivers are instant hazards. Just add water in any form. >Bob] > >Well, this driver did not need water or alcohol ( I don't think) - somewhat >geriatric and just wasn't paying attention. Made a left turn right in >front of my '87 turbo quattro avant while I was transporting family to a >Chrismas Party. Well we were very late for the party, and the avant never >made it. It will not be going anywhere soon if at all. It's a damn shame, >and I have been trying to keep from getting depressed as I have tallyed my >time and expenses in the car to over $17K, mostly this year with all the >work I've done. One minute near perfect, next minute totalled. > >I am thankful that no one was hurt. I am also thankful it was not my >fault, so I will at least get something. I am glad I did a good job of >recordkeeping and have a spreadsheet of expenses and the receipts to back >it up. For those who have had questions regarding how this might work with >insurance, stay tuned. > >I'll try to post pics and spreadsheet, as it shows good stuff on cost of >ownership of these cars, even if you go overboard. > >Ben (now sad) and looking for a replacement ( see marketplace for details). > >'87 5000 CS turbo quattro avant 160kmiles - to not yet RIP! Car was in >near perfect condition without a spot of rust - underneath looks new. >Engine rebuilt in April '02 incl. following - > T03/K26 hybrid turbo. > Elgin 260i254e cam > adjustable cam sprocket - currently set for 0 > new valve seals, lifters & techtonics springs > new piston rings, connecting rod and main bearings, all new seals. > 2-Piece Exhaust manifold, highflow cat and 2.5" Stebro exhaust. > All visible casting flash removed from components. > Mild port and polish to head and manifolds with ports matched. > Bypass valve located in intercooler where untapped hole was with > bypass > flow directed toward turbo > Supplementary fuel injector installed in intercooler controlled > by 034EFI > - injector is inline just prior to throttle body hose. > 200 Flywheel, Clutch and Pressure plate, slave cyl. > QLCC chip with variable resistor modded ECU, Schrapnel Knob + 2 > bar SJM > spring for control - currently set for 16 PSI. > >I can at least tell the engine is salvageable. From wallace at stanfordalumni.org Wed Jan 1 22:28:08 2003 From: wallace at stanfordalumni.org (Wallace White) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: All-season tires for 5kcstq In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3E13DBF8.4060103@stanfordalumni.org> I think the asymetrical SP5k is for 55-series and below; my car would get the symetrical design. So perhaps Lee's experience was with the asym. tire? Thanks, all, for the replies. I got one other reply about SP5k's, a very positive experience. The Nokian NRW sounds intriguing, though--I don't drive in the snow more than a few days a year, and the SP4k's did fine, but I wouldn't mind having more confidence in those conditions. I'll look around for those. - Wallace '87 5kcstq 195k Lee Levitt wrote: > Wallace White > >>It's about time to replace the Dunlop SP4000's on my 5kcstq. I've been >>happy with them overall. They've done almost 50k miles and have a bit >>left. Handling and traction have been good, noise fine. >> >>So, how's the SP5000? This would be the symmetrical version, at >>205/60-15. I'd appreciate advice on it or other tires that might fit the >>bill: >>- H- or V-rated all season >>- decent snow performance (I drive to Tahoe a few times a year) >>- good tread life >>- low noise > > > I ran a set of SP5000s in 16" size on my wife's car. Pretty good all around > tire, almost as good in the snow as the Nokia NRW which is on the car now. > The Nokias are damn good all season tires...you should consider them too. > > I just find it difficult to think of a Nokian tire for use in the > summer...been thinking of them as the ultimate in snow tires for so long. > But the NRW is a pretty good year round tire, and the only reason I don't > run them in the summer on the wife's car is that I have a set of Dunlop > 9000s in a wider size for that car for the summer! > > Note, there may be some variation between 15" and 16" tire construction and > tread, so YMMV. :) > > Lee > '95.5 S6 avant > '96 A6 quattro avant > > > From Simplstupd at aol.com Thu Jan 2 04:10:05 2003 From: Simplstupd at aol.com (Simplstupd@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: coil resistance Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I know in order to test an ignition coil, you check primary and secondary resistance. If the numbers are not in spec, replace coil. The primary resistance # max should be .76 ohms. Mine is at 1 ohm. My secpndary resistance # was in spec. Yet I have no problems at all on this engine other than slow to start when cold. I tested a new-on-the-shelf coil and it too had the same #'s. What do you think? Paul '82 Coupe 2.2 WE From ti at amb.org Thu Jan 2 01:27:00 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: coil resistance In-Reply-To: from "Simplstupd@aol.com" at Jan 02, 2003 04:10:05 AM Message-ID: <200301020927.JAA15417@amb.org> Simplstupd@aol.com writes: > The primary resistance # max should be .76 ohms. Mine is at 1 ohm. My > secpndary resistance # was in spec. Yet I have no problems at all on this > engine other than slow to start when cold. Your reading may not be out of spec. Many meters (except the fancier, expensive ones) read a fraction of an ohm even when you short the two leads together. Try that, and if you read something like 0.24 ohm resistance, then the actual resistance of the coil would be right on target. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From lee at wheelman.com Thu Jan 2 06:26:41 2003 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: All-season tires for 5kcstq In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Wallace, Yep, my experience is with the asymetric 55 series Nokian NRWs. If I remember correctly, we had a set of 15" NRWs for a while and they weren't nearly as impressive dry weather tires. Still damn good in the snow. Of course, you could pick up an inexpensive set of 16" wheels and run 205/55 16s :) Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From snowman650 at chartermi.net Thu Jan 2 07:38:45 2003 From: snowman650 at chartermi.net (j) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: No Spark-- '88 90 Quattro Message-ID: <000001c2b25b$e70619e0$6a00a8c0@springlake.gov> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hi All, I have a question about a 1988 90 Quattro that I just bought: It had a warm start problem together with a sudden stalling problem. In looking at things after I bought it I noticed some water in the oil, to be safe I pulled the head replaced the head gasket and went through the head replacing the stem seals (head checked out ok) because it had 190,000 miles. Got it all back together and I can not get spark. When I hit the key initially it will spark between the coil wire and ground once (one spark) and then nothing. I did some of the Bentley tests on the coil and those came out ok. Not sure if that means anything though. I pulled the codes after cranking it for awhile and 4444 comes out. I did the output checks and that was good also. Could the problem lie in the ignition switch, if so how would I check that? Any other things to check? Is there a crank position sensor, I could not see one? Anyone have a spare (known good) ECU and/or coil I could borrow? Also, after cranking for awhile I pulled the spark plugs and they were dry? Any help is appreciated, Jim Bush Holland, MI -- From siambisg at uchastings.edu Thu Jan 2 06:33:57 2003 From: siambisg at uchastings.edu (siambisg@uchastings.edu) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Problem removing radiator - 88 90q Message-ID: <520714203.1041518038636.JavaMail.siambisg@pericles.uchastings.edu> Javad & Huw, Thanks for the advice (last friday) on ignoring the Bentley. I attempted yesterday, aaaannnnd the fan shroud came out with some fair amount of coaxing and twisting. With that gone, the radiator was easy. George S '88 90q >Never followed the Bentley for stuff like that, its a pretty straight forward >procedure, I can pull a radiator in about 10 minutes if I have to (w/o AC), >25 min with AC maybe, its just a matter of knowing what has to come out. > >Javad > >In a message dated 12/27/2002 7:21:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, >siambisg@uchastings.edu writes: > > >> hmm, remove fan shroud first, then radiator?? It sounds doable, yet the >> Bentley seemed adamant about the radiator and "cowling" being removed as >> one unit. I'll try separating them tomorrow. >> >> thanks for the quick replies :) >> George >> > > > From siambisg at uchastings.edu Thu Jan 2 06:59:28 2003 From: siambisg at uchastings.edu (siambisg@uchastings.edu) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: coolant hose flange with divet?? Message-ID: <520670011.1041519568750.JavaMail.siambisg@pericles.uchastings.edu> Just wondering if anyone has seen this. This flange holds the MFS switch on bottom and a dual temp sensor on the top. The divet, dime sized, is located on the outside top of the flange approx where the upper rad hose clamp goes around. It's as if something was eating into the flange. Also a black and brittle substance filled in the divet and created a small mound. It's either corrosion or a past repair with some type of filler. In any case, the relative thinness of metal at the center of the divet makes me nervous about putting it back in. George S '88 90q From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Thu Jan 2 10:21:18 2003 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Very Sad story about my avant Message-ID: <55.3513f328.2b45b2ee@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 1/2/03 12:01:15 AM Central Standard Time, mik@info.fundp.ac.be writes: > I'm sad to hear that Ben!! As you said it, hopefully no one was hurt and it > wasn't your fault! > > > Keep us posted on the insurance details! > > > Mihnea Ben, What you do is ask for the maximum bodily injury for all persons in the car. In Texas that amunt is 20K. If you had 7 people in the car that's 140K. That should more than make up for your 17K in the car. Scott Scott From Mohammed.Bhatti at si-intl.com Thu Jan 2 10:52:28 2003 From: Mohammed.Bhatti at si-intl.com (Bhatti, Mohammed) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Steering Wheel Knock Sound Message-ID: Jim, I appreciate the detailed response. I have yet to re-check things out. Things have been pretty busy at home with all the er...bowl games I have been watching. Anyway, I plan on getting around to this as soon as they stop playing those damn games. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted as to what I find out. mohammed 88 80q -----Original Message----- From: james accordino To: Bhatti, Mohammed Cc: audi list Sent: 12/31/2002 5:03 PM Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Knock Sound No only the mount. This is a steel plate bolted to the strut tower with 3 nuts. The top of the strut rod passes through the center metal bushing with a large washer and nut on top. This can be replaced without either replacing/removing the strut or trashing your alignment. Carefully mark its position before removing. Although, if it's really hosed, you probably need an alignment anyway, because it's surely out of spec. "Leaning in." The struts, if original are now hosed as well. BUT... often times you get the $69. brake job deal. Like they just jam the pistons back and put on pads. Same deal here. They may have replaced your struts (cartridges) without doing ANY hardware or "soft" parts. VERY common. On the wheel bolts, I never used to care, now I check them all the time with the torque wrench when I get home. Too loose, too tight. Usually pretty good though, cause they use the "torque stick." Some sh*t they stick on the end of the air gun. As long as they pick the right one off the chart, the #'s are usually right there. Jim Accordino --- "Bhatti, Mohammed" wrote: > Jim, > > That I didn't check. Ok, assuming that I have a > problem here, do I need to > replace the struts? > > Loose wheel bolts i.e. I didn't need monkey lad > brute force strength to > loosen the wheel bolts. They came loose fairly > easily, more so than I had > expected especially after having taken the car to > the local tire shop to > have the tires balanced. > > And now that I think about it some more, the > steering wheel knock sound was > more of a clunk. > > Anyway, thanks for the advice. I'll be looking into > this some more. > > mohammed > 88 80q > > -----Original Message----- > From: james accordino > To: Bhatti, Mohammed; 'George Harris '; > 'quattro@audifans.com ' > Sent: 12/28/2002 1:35 AM > Subject: RE: Steering Wheel Knock Sound > > > --- "Bhatti, Mohammed" > wrote: > > only thing that I noticed was that the wheel bolts > > were a tad loose. > > Loose wheel bolts? Yikes! > > > I > > re-tightened the strut housing bolts and checked > all > > the other bolts. > > Re-mounted wheels and re-tightened. > > I'm pretty sure he was talking about tears in the > rubber of the strut mount which will allow metal to > metal contact. Usually the steel bushing to the > cutout. Turn it to lock and look carefully at the > rubber of the mount under the little plastic cover. > (If they're still there.) > > Jim Accordino __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From JShadzi at aol.com Thu Jan 2 11:05:39 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: coolant hose flange with divet?? Message-ID: <29.34fcc768.2b45bd53@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] George, sounds like you have the basis for a majory Hollywood SciFi script, do you have an agent?? ;) This is pretty common, not sure if its the result of electrolosys or just plain old corrosion, but I've never seen a flange badly damaged from it to where it couldn't be used, usually the main problem is that it hurts the sealing surface for the hose. I think a new one from the dealer isn't too bad, don't quote me, but it may be in the $30 range or so. Also, these coolatn necks are all over, and maybe a lister has one in better shape he'd like to donate to the cause?? HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/2/2003 7:03:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, siambisg@uchastings.edu writes: > Just wondering if anyone has seen this. This flange holds the MFS switch on > bottom and a dual temp sensor on the top. The divet, dime sized, is > located on the outside top of the flange approx where the upper rad hose > clamp goes around. It's as if something was eating into the flange. Also > a black and brittle substance filled in the divet and created a small > mound. It's either corrosion or a past repair with some type of filler. > > In any case, the relative thinness of metal at the center of the divet > makes me nervous about putting it back in. > > George S > '88 90q > From wallace at stanfordalumni.org Thu Jan 2 08:38:31 2003 From: wallace at stanfordalumni.org (Wallace White) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: All-season tires for 5kcstq In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3E146B07.8000201@stanfordalumni.org> Oh--it's the Dunlop SP5000 that comes in two styles: asymetric (uni-directional) at 55-series and lower, symetric at 60-series and higher. I think the NRW is the same throughout. But... the Nokian dealer (in Denver--none in the Bay Area) says the 205/60-15 NRW is NLA, being replaced with the WR. The dealer has a set of WRs and says they're at least as good. Anybody have experience with the WR? They're $86/ea plus shipping, $21 than the SP5k at Tire Rack... - Wallace '87 5kcstq 195k Lee Levitt wrote: > Wallace, > > Yep, my experience is with the asymetric 55 series Nokian NRWs. If I > remember correctly, we had a set of 15" NRWs for a while and they weren't > nearly as impressive dry weather tires. Still damn good in the snow. > > Of course, you could pick up an inexpensive set of 16" wheels and run 205/55 > 16s :) From qshipaz at juno.com Thu Jan 2 16:46:25 2003 From: qshipaz at juno.com (qshipaz@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Sad avant crash story Message-ID: <20030102.114702.564.183789@webmail5.nyc.untd.com> Happy new year Audinauts, Ben, please keep us up to date on this one. This is exactly the sort of thi= ng that gives me nightmares. My 5ktq is currently a hangar queen (actually.= .=2E she's beginning to look like a motor holder!) but my Datsun 240Z is a = good example of this phenomenon... how do you put a value on the retrofitte= d 5-speed? The factory new weatherstripping? The (fill in the blank), etc.,= because although I'm nowhere near 17k into the Z, I'd be hard pressed to r= eplace it for less than $6K- she is almost spotless! and the blue book bare= ly scrapes four figures. Actual replacement value, like your Avant, is many= times higher. Fight the good fight! ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From benswann at comcast.net Thu Jan 2 12:07:25 2003 From: benswann at comcast.net (ben swann) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 20 V TQ questions Message-ID: <1c43df1ca14d.1ca14d1c43df@icomcast.net> I am looking at a 200 20V Turbo Quattro Avant as a replacement for the '87 5000 tqa. I'd like to know a little more about the engine and other differences between the MC-1 setup and the one in the 20V T Q. Is it CIS, CIS-E, EFI? Is this the car with the UFO's? Other PITAs? How much of a pain is the timing belt. To pull the motor, or the trans - I will need to replace the flywheel/pin on the 20V, so am trying to see what I am in for. Any other caveats I ned to be aware of. I'm a little hesitant as I am not totally turned onto torsen, and know the MC setup, but nothing about the 20V turbo setup. Don't mind learning though. So TIA for any enlightenment, disuasion or encuragement toward buying the '91 200 20V tqa. Ben From rizov_d at shaw.ca Thu Jan 2 10:11:44 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Coolant temperature sensor test Message-ID: <313b62317a8a.317a8a313b62@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hello, Could anybody describe to me what is the procedure to check the coolant temperature sensor on 86 4 ksq? Thx, Dobby From benswann at comcast.net Thu Jan 2 12:14:01 2003 From: benswann at comcast.net (ben swann) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Damage to my '87 5000 Turbo Quattro avant. Message-ID: <1e47dd1e7515.1e75151e47dd@icomcast.net> Recap - driver in '2001 Camry made left turn directly in front of me both cars doing ~30mph, both declared totalled AFAIK. Picture of the damage to my '87 5000 tqa are at: http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=1327 Id appreciate suggestions towards possibility of repair. The damage extent is that there is slight paint cracking where strut tower meets firewall, but no deformation of tower. Passenger front door opens, but fender binds it ever so slghtly. Windsheild stress cracked through the qfans sticker a lower left of windsheild. Fender is wasted and support is deformed. Car was declared totalled, but I have seen a similar damaged tqa repaired. If the car can be put back on the road safely for reasonable cost, it would be ashamed not to. I'd rather not have to strip it, but need to make an educated decision. Thanks, Ben From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Thu Jan 2 18:24:12 2003 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 90q exhaust Message-ID: A friend of mine has got a 90q (10v) which has started smoking a lot lately. It's cold here now, so I know that moisture in the exhaust makes some smoke, but this car smokes thick, the exhaust really stinks and it idles very rough.. The exhaust is white in color. I don't really know what it smells like. It might smell a bit of coolant, but these engines are not known for blowing head gaskets? A radiator hose popped off recently, and he drove about 1 mile after the low coolant warning lighted up. Could this cause a blown head gasket? -- E. Spangen '86 Audi 100 2.2 CS quattro From JordanVw at aol.com Thu Jan 2 12:33:44 2003 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Damage to my '87 5000 Turbo Quattro avant. Message-ID: <191.12de74e2.2b45d1f8@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 1/2/03 12:24:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, benswann@comcast.net writes: > both cars doing ~30mph, both declared totalled AFAIK. > > Picture of the damage to my '87 5000 tqa are at: > http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=1327 > > Id appreciate suggestions towards possibility of repair. The damage > extent is that there is slight paint cracking where strut tower meets > firewall, but no deformation of tower. Passenger front door opens, but > fender binds it ever so slghtly. Windsheild stress cracked through the > qfans sticker a lower left of windsheild. Fender is wasted and support > is deformed. Car was declared totalled, but I have seen a similar > damaged tqa repaired. > > If the car can be put back on the road safely for reasonable cost, it > would be ashamed not to. I'd rather not have to strip it, but need to > make an educated decision. > > Thanks, > ouch ben, i feel your pain...ive seen your tqa in person, i know it was a nice car... its hard to see the pass side damage fromt he pic but it looks like the strut tower was pushed in? hard to tell from the pics. you know, there was a lister from SE pa near me - he's also been to my place, who had a nice red '87 tqa who was trying to sell it cheap a month or so ago... john valhalla (sp?) i got his phone number here if you want.. chris From wphelps at rizzo.com Thu Jan 2 12:32:48 2003 From: wphelps at rizzo.com (Bill Phelps) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I've recently had to repair the fuel return line on my 4KQ in a few places. The lines seem to be rusting around the rubber isolator clamps that hold them to the body. Anyone know if replacement lines are available or will it have to be a custom job? Thanks Bill From JordanVw at aol.com Thu Jan 2 12:37:24 2003 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] a friend of mine is selling his red '90 200TQ w/ platinum grey sport interior.. everything works, body and interior in super shape. car in atlanta but can deliver. email me for more details chris From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 2 09:44:35 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 90q exhaust In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030102174435.83929.qmail@web20005.mail.yahoo.com> --- Eyvind Spangen wrote: > A friend of mine has got a 90q (10v) which has > started smoking a lot > lately. It's cold here now, so I know that moisture > in the exhaust > makes some smoke, but this car smokes thick, the > exhaust really stinks > and it idles very rough.. The exhaust is white in > color. I don't > really know what it smells like. It might smell a > bit of coolant, but > these engines are not known for blowing head > gaskets? No, but.... > A radiator hose popped off recently, and he drove > about 1 mile after > the low coolant warning lighted up. Could this cause > a blown head > gasket? If he warped the head all bets are off, and he probably needs a new head and head gasket. If it was only 1 mile, he may be fine as far as the head goes. The blown head gasket may have caused the hose failure if it was weak by over-pressurizing the system. Either way, it sounds like that head is coming off. Does the oil have water in it? It will be nice and foamy if it does, then you know for sure it's the head gasket. Based on what you say though, I will assure you it's blown, even without checking the oil. Does mysteriously loose coolant? HTH, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From nokian at aaahawk.com Thu Jan 2 12:14:36 2003 From: nokian at aaahawk.com (Greg Galinsky) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: All-season tires for 5kcstq References: <3E146B07.8000201@stanfordalumni.org> Message-ID: <3E14818C.000006.05129@vaio> -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The WR are little quieter on dry roads; 5% and a little better in deep, deep rain and slush. Winter function in snow does not seem to be noticeably better. Greg Galinsky G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Wallace White Date: Thursday, January 02, 2003 01:17:06 PM To: lee@wheelman.com Cc: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: All-season tires for 5kcstq Oh--it's the Dunlop SP5000 that comes in two styles: asymetric (uni-directional) at 55-series and lower, symetric at 60-series and higher. I think the NRW is the same throughout. But... the Nokian dealer (in Denver--none in the Bay Area) says the 205/60-15 NRW is NLA, being replaced with the WR. The dealer has a set of WRs and says they're at least as good. Anybody have experience with the WR? They're $86/ea plus shipping, $21 than the SP5k at Tire Rack... - Wallace '87 5kcstq 195k Lee Levitt wrote: > Wallace, > > Yep, my experience is with the asymetric 55 series Nokian NRWs. If I > remember correctly, we had a set of 15" NRWs for a while and they weren't > nearly as impressive dry weather tires. Still damn good in the snow. > > Of course, you could pick up an inexpensive set of 16" wheels and run 205/55 > 16s :) . -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From kentmclean at mindspring.com Thu Jan 2 13:18:54 2003 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 90q exhaust Message-ID: Eyvind Spangen wrote: >A friend of mine has got a 90q (10v) which has started smoking a lot >lately. It's cold here now, so I know that moisture in the exhaust >makes some smoke, but this car smokes thick, the exhaust really stinks >and it idles very rough.. The exhaust is white in color. The rules of thumb I go by are: white = water blue = oil black = fuel That is, a white exhaust indicates water, either condensation in/from the exhaut system, or water from the cooling system getting into the combustion chamber. The strong odor indicates more than just condensation. Blue exhaust indicates oil burning. And black indicates carbon from too much fuel (rich mixture). HTH, Kent '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" From porter_dog at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 13:24:33 2003 From: porter_dog at hotmail.com (R Mangas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Coolant temperature sensor test Message-ID: If you're referring to the one that feeds the ecu, the only check I know of is resistance vs. temp. IIRC, it should be about 2.5k ohms at 68F, lower resistance at higher temps and higher at lower temps. Wish there was a published curve, but I've never seen one... hth, Robert >From: rizov_d@shaw.ca >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Coolant temperature sensor test >Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 10:11:44 -0700 > >[ Converted text/html to text/plain ] > >Hello, > > > >Could anybody describe to me what is the procedure to check the coolant >temperature sensor on 86 4 ksq? > > > >Thx, > > > >Dobby _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com Thu Jan 2 12:57:36 2003 From: Eric_R_Kissell at whirlpool.com (Eric_R_Kissell@whirlpool.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 20 V TQ questions Message-ID: >Is it CIS, CIS-E, EFI? IIRC, Motronic. I believe it uses a mass air flow sensor (hot wire). >Is this the car with the UFO's? Yes. HTH, Eric From human747 at attbi.com Thu Jan 2 14:30:46 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ References: Message-ID: <3E149366.497940D6@attbi.com> > I've recently had to repair the fuel return line on my 4KQ in a few places. > The lines seem to be rusting around the rubber isolator clamps that hold > them to the body. > > Anyone know if replacement lines are available or will it have to be a > custom job? They were not too long ago, maybe they still are - about 150-200 for the pair. A bit tricky to install, but do-able. Certainly nice to have pre-bent lines that fit all the little rubber holders! -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From wphelps at rizzo.com Thu Jan 2 15:10:37 2003 From: wphelps at rizzo.com (Bill Phelps) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ Message-ID: Dealer item I assume? -----Original Message----- From: Huw Powell [mailto:human747@attbi.com] Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 2:31 PM To: Bill Phelps Cc: 'quattro@audifans.com' Subject: Re: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ > I've recently had to repair the fuel return line on my 4KQ in a few places. > The lines seem to be rusting around the rubber isolator clamps that hold > them to the body. > > Anyone know if replacement lines are available or will it have to be a > custom job? They were not too long ago, maybe they still are - about 150-200 for the pair. A bit tricky to install, but do-able. Certainly nice to have pre-bent lines that fit all the little rubber holders! -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From gerard at poboxes.com Thu Jan 2 22:19:00 2003 From: gerard at poboxes.com (Gerard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: What is this? A Triple-K K22???? Message-ID: <3E149EB4.5FEB1F72@poboxes.com> Anyone ever seen something like this? It's supposed to be a K27. Got the picture from a Porsche 930 owner. Looking at the cast number on the compressor housing shows "5223" which, if you read it off like the stock Audi 200 K26 part number, should indicate this is a "K23". Looking at the number on the blue ID plate indicates this as a "K22". Any ideas? It's big, very big, actually and most likely tooo big, but it has me very curious indeed. Here's the picture: http://www.2226.co.za/Mvc-415f.jpg :) G. From human747 at attbi.com Thu Jan 2 15:22:21 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ References: Message-ID: <3E149F7D.9A25016E@attbi.com> > Dealer item I assume? Oh, yes, sorry, I guess I forgot to specify that. > > I've recently had to repair the fuel return line on my 4KQ in a few > places. > > The lines seem to be rusting around the rubber isolator clamps that hold > > them to the body. > > > > Anyone know if replacement lines are available or will it have to be a > > custom job? > > They were not too long ago, maybe they still are - about 150-200 for the > pair. A bit tricky to install, but do-able. > > Certainly nice to have pre-bent lines that fit all the little rubber > holders! -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From tnas at euronet.nl Thu Jan 2 21:21:41 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: My 'new' Audi 80... Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030102212045.05956e60@mail.euronet.nl> Just added a pic to the Registry! http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewMember&userid=65 for those interested. Regards, Tom From wfo16v at earthlink.net Thu Jan 2 13:05:18 2003 From: wfo16v at earthlink.net (TT) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Shipping from Germany References: Message-ID: <003101c2b2a2$aad61c80$6496eb0c@default> Does anybody have any experience with shipping from Germany - particularly what it would cost to get 4 wheels to the US? Thank you for any experience! From auditude at cox.net Thu Jan 2 16:22:01 2003 From: auditude at cox.net (auditude@cox.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: coolant hose flange with divet?? Message-ID: <20030102212202.WIYT20158.fed1mtao02.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> I believe these flanges are on sale for a really reasonable price right now from Blau. In the catalog/flyer that came with the H&R's I just picked up for my CGT, I was surprised to see that it was listed for like $15 or something cheap like that, IIRC. I don't know if it is the same one, but it looked like the one on my CGT. Ken JShadzi@aol.com wrote: < Just wondering if anyone has seen this. This flange holds the MFS switch on > bottom and a dual temp sensor on the top. The divet, dime sized, is > located on the outside top of the flange approx where the upper rad hose > clamp goes around. It's as if something was eating into the flange. Also > a black and brittle substance filled in the divet and created a small > mound. It's either corrosion or a past repair with some type of filler. > > In any case, the relative thinness of metal at the center of the divet > makes me nervous about putting it back in. > > George S > '88 90q >> From JShadzi at aol.com Thu Jan 2 16:50:48 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: What is this? A Triple-K K22???? Message-ID: <740B375A.7D40D73C.0016D39D@aol.com> That's a 3LDZ KKK turbo, early 911 turbo, very big, similar to a K27, but older and less efficient, its really a diesel truck turbo, I wouldn't use it in a 2.2 unles you like making power above 5krpm. They sell all the time on ebay, check it out. Javad In a message dated 1/2/2003 3:19:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Gerard writes: >Anyone ever seen something like this? It's supposed to be a K27. Got the >picture from a Porsche 930 owner. Looking at the cast number on the >compressor housing shows "5223" which, if you read it off like the stock >Audi 200 K26 part number, should indicate this is a "K23". Looking at >the number on the blue ID plate indicates this as a "K22". > >Any ideas? It's big, very big, actually and most likely tooo big, but it >has me very curious indeed. > >Here's the picture: > > http://www.2226.co.za/Mvc-415f.jpg > >:) > >G. > From msvphoto at pacbell.net Thu Jan 2 14:04:12 2003 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Very Sad story about my avant Message-ID: <00e201c2b2aa$e2537560$1f00a8c0@mike> I'm really sorry to hear that Ben. I am happy to hear all inside the car are okay! I hope at least the engine can be moved to your next project and you come away with enough to make that next project happen quickly and easily. Good luck and keep us posted... Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From edshred2000 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 2 14:17:14 2003 From: edshred2000 at yahoo.com (ed armstrong) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Oxygen sensor test In-Reply-To: <000501c2b1fe$c793ffd0$6ca7510c@richardpqbzv3u> Message-ID: <20030102221714.18366.qmail@web40908.mail.yahoo.com> --- Danae Kranski wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I have been trying to pass the NOx portion of an > emission test and would > like a practical way that I could test the O2 sensor > (3 wire -2 white & > 1 black) with a digital multimeter if possible. The > car in question is a > 1990 80 series Q, 2.3L. I have had a shop test the > sensor with a scope > and they said it was working fine. They also said > that they enriched > the mixture on this fuel injection system which I > have come to find out > that with the KE-Jetronic system, enrichment is not > adjustable and is > control by the ECU automatically. > > Suspicious > Richard > -- > Richard, Your system is CIS-3 and the mixture is adjustable externally. The CIS computer controls mixture only within a small range. One can think of the external adjustment as course and the computer adjustment as fine. If you did have high NOx the mixture was too lean so it would appear the mechanics made the right decision. Hows CO now. A high CO would indicate the adjustment went to far rich. ===== -ed __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From timofej.crift at att.net Thu Jan 2 17:23:24 2003 From: timofej.crift at att.net (Timofej H. Crift) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I had my CoupeGT lines copied by Classic Tube in NY state. Price was about $110 ea. for stainless. www.classictube.com -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Bill Phelps Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 12:33 PM To: 'quattro@audifans.com' Subject: Rotting fuel lines on an 87 4KQ This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I've recently had to repair the fuel return line on my 4KQ in a few places. The lines seem to be rusting around the rubber isolator clamps that hold them to the body. Anyone know if replacement lines are available or will it have to be a custom job? Thanks Bill From timofej.crift at att.net Thu Jan 2 17:23:27 2003 From: timofej.crift at att.net (Timofej H. Crift) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Broken 90Q Accelerator Pedal Message-ID: Has anyone had their accelerator pedal break off? The car is a 1995 90Q. It looks to me that the entire assembly needs to be replaced. Am I missing something or did team door handle design the pedal cluster too? TIA, Tim Crift -- timofej.crift@att.net From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 22:28:16 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: JordanVw@aol.com said anyone want a '90 200TQ???? I'll go out on a limb and bet a lot of folks would. You went to this much trouble, how many more key strokes to include price and contact#? Mike a friend of mine is selling his red '90 200TQ w/ platinum grey sport interior.. everything works, body and interior in super shape. car in atlanta but can deliver. email me for more details chris _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 2 14:37:25 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Broken 90Q Accelerator Pedal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030102223725.51803.qmail@web20002.mail.yahoo.com> --- "Timofej H. Crift" wrote: > Has anyone had their accelerator pedal break off? > The car is a 1995 90Q. > It looks to me that the entire assembly needs to be > replaced. Am I missing > something or did team door handle design the pedal > cluster too? Mine decided to retire one day, I replaced it with a used one. Yes, you do have to do the entire pedal. ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From crankshaft at adelphia.net Thu Jan 2 14:38:59 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: Message-ID: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so that those interested parties could ask about said details. I would bet he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the marketplace. Regards, Aaron Mike Del Tergo wrote: > JordanVw@aol.com said > anyone want a '90 200TQ???? > > I'll go out on a limb and bet a lot of folks would. You went to this > much > trouble, how many more key strokes to include price and contact#? > Mike > > > a friend of mine is selling his red '90 200TQ w/ platinum grey sport > interior.. everything works, body and interior in super shape. car in > atlanta but can deliver. email me for more details > > chris > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months > http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup > > From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Thu Jan 2 23:42:33 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: What is this? A Triple-K K22???? In-Reply-To: <740B375A.7D40D73C.0016D39D@aol.com> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030102233225.033a6958@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Hi all! Does any of you have any information on this K27 turbo? It is a K27 from a turbo diesel truck engine, supposedly Daimler-Benz. The numbers on it are: K27-422-1, 5327 970 6425. I guess according to triple K's numbering system it has a 2764 compressor but what does this mean in terms of air flow? The turbine housing is a 6 or 8 bolt type to the DP and the manifold flange is I suppose like a SQ turbo or a Garrett though I'm not sure if the bolt pattern is the same on Garretts and big triple Ks.... I got it brand new on Ebay for 180 Euros and I'm expecting reception soon, I hope I'll be able to do something with it, does anyone know if the cold side is supposed to be able to be bolted up to a MC-1 K26 hot side? Anyway, thanks for any input/thoughts about this turbo, Mihnea At 16:50 2/01/2003 -0500, you wrote: >That's a 3LDZ KKK turbo, early 911 turbo, very big, similar to a K27, but >older and less efficient, its really a diesel truck turbo, I wouldn't use >it in a 2.2 unles you like making power above 5krpm. They sell all the >time on ebay, check it out. > >Javad > >In a message dated 1/2/2003 3:19:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Gerard > writes: > > >Anyone ever seen something like this? It's supposed to be a K27. Got the > >picture from a Porsche 930 owner. Looking at the cast number on the > >compressor housing shows "5223" which, if you read it off like the stock > >Audi 200 K26 part number, should indicate this is a "K23". Looking at > >the number on the blue ID plate indicates this as a "K22". > > > >Any ideas? It's big, very big, actually and most likely tooo big, but it > >has me very curious indeed. > > > >Here's the picture: > > > > http://www.2226.co.za/Mvc-415f.jpg > > > >:) > > > >G. > > From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 22:52:37 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: >I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so >that those interested parties could ask about said details. I would bet he >also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the >marketplace. Quite possibly, He did and I am. No crap avoidance possible, As far as that goes Brett is the self appointed marketplace police officer, and Jordan constantly posts his stuff to the list anyway. If your gonna bother, why fail to include some of the most pertinent info? Anytime anyone posts without price and location, they hear about it. Do you have the 200? Mike _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From human747 at attbi.com Thu Jan 2 17:53:34 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3E14C2EE.536B85B5@attbi.com> > I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so > that those interested parties could ask about said details. Saving what, 15-20 characters? > I would bet > he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the > marketplace. Here's some crap... that's where cars for sale *belong*... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From davidt at opentext.com Thu Jan 2 17:54:08 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5Ks windows Message-ID: Hi all & happy new year Is there something that can be put onto the rubber pieces of the door and windows to prevent them from sticking? A little lubricant? Something like "armor-all" (I don't use the stuff myself but something like that)? Thanks for any tips David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Thu Jan 2 23:53:55 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 20vt fuel injector question Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030102235212.00aca328@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Fellow listers, Does this injector look like it could fit a 3B engine? It seems so to me but would it fit? http://ebay0.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_204ec14571902cde0eeb89773bdea845/i-2.JPG Thanks for your answers, Mihnea the 20vt tweeker From crankshaft at adelphia.net Thu Jan 2 14:59:10 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> <3E14C2EE.536B85B5@attbi.com> Message-ID: <3E14C43E.4040902@adelphia.net> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] True cars and parts do belong in the Marketplace, but nobody ever looks there. Huw Powell wrote: >>I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so >>that those interested parties could ask about said details. >> >> > >Saving what, 15-20 characters? > > > >>I would bet >>he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the >>marketplace. >> >> > >Here's some crap... that's where cars for sale *belong*... > > > -- From iin10ded at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 22:57:42 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: headgasket Message-ID: boy that really sounds like what my car did when the hg let go.. rough idle, white smoke, stinks of coolant, etc. bummer. jim -------------- A friend of mine has got a 90q (10v) which has started smoking a lot lately. It's cold here now, so I know that moisture in the exhaust makes some smoke, but this car smokes thick, the exhaust really stinks and it idles very rough.. The exhaust is white in color. I don't really know what it smells like. It might smell a bit of coolant, but these engines are not known for blowing head gaskets? A radiator hose popped off recently, and he drove about 1 mile after the low coolant warning lighted up. Could this cause a blown head gasket? ---------------- _________________________________________________________________ Protect your PC - get McAfee.com VirusScan Online http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 23:07:19 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: >True cars and parts do belong in the Marketplace, but nobody ever looks >there. Since my search for an Avant I've been looking religiously, actually even more than that as I am not overly religious. And I've had 3 replies to my 5KTQ for sale in the last 3 days. Your statement reminds me of a Yogism, and I paraphrase; Yeah, that used to be a popular restaurant, but the lines are so long that nobody goes there any more. Mike _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Thu Jan 2 23:11:21 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- Aaron said >No sorry no 200 in my driveway. But I would suggest looking in the >Marketplace. Now that is TRULY funny, or as our fearless leader GWB would say "ironical". Mike _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup -- Date: Thu, 02 Jan 2003 15:02:36 -0800 From: Aaron Gibson User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.0.1) Gecko/20020823 Netscape/7.0 To: Mike Del Tergo Subject: Re: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: X-Plaintext: Converted text/html to text/plain [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] No sorry no 200 in my driveway. But I would suggest looking in the Marketplace. Mike Del Tergo wrote: I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so that those interested parties could ask about said details. I would bet he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the marketplace. Quite possibly, He did and I am. No crap avoidance possible, As far as that goes Brett is the self appointed marketplace police officer, and Jordan constantly posts his stuff to the list anyway. If your gonna bother, why fail to include some of the most pertinent info? Anytime anyone posts without price and location, they hear about it. Do you have the 200? Mike _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup[1] ===References:=== 1. http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup From crankshaft at adelphia.net Thu Jan 2 15:15:32 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> <3E14C2EE.536B85B5@attbi.com> Message-ID: <3E14C814.3070606@adelphia.net> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I love getting crap from you Huw........it smells so sweet! Huw Powell wrote: >>I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more details" so >>that those interested parties could ask about said details. >> >> > >Saving what, 15-20 characters? > > > >>I would bet >>he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on the >>marketplace. >> >> > >Here's some crap... that's where cars for sale *belong*... > >-- >Huw Powell > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/ > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > > > -- From dave at expertfriend.com Thu Jan 2 18:18:55 2003 From: dave at expertfriend.com (Dave Arkle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> <3E14C2EE.536B85B5@attbi.com> <3E14C43E.4040902@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <005401c2b2b5$52370f40$9701a8c0@MINIME> Aaron sd >True cars and parts do belong in the Marketplace, but nobody ever looks >there. I am a n00b here, but this HAS to be a troll...lol... Dave Arkle 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for a TQ... From human747 at attbi.com Thu Jan 2 18:19:33 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 5Ks windows References: Message-ID: <3E14C905.5D8BAD90@attbi.com> > Is there something that can be put onto the rubber pieces of the door and > windows to prevent them from sticking? A little lubricant? Something like > "armor-all" (I don't use the stuff myself but something like that)? When I remember to winterize my cars, I usually spray the rubber seals with silicone lube. Seems to work well. Also graphite poweder for the locks, and lithium or teflon spray for the door handles and stuff. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From human747 at attbi.com Thu Jan 2 18:21:33 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? References: <3E14BF83.90805@adelphia.net> <3E14C2EE.536B85B5@attbi.com> <3E14C43E.4040902@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3E14C97D.189A8A8F@attbi.com> > True cars and parts do belong in the Marketplace, but nobody ever looks > there. irrelevant argument, and how do you even "know" they don't? it would help if that's where all for sale (etc) posts went, rather than people using the mailing list (and filling the archives) with items for sale. The marketplace is the "swap meet" portion of this web site, not the mailing list. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From JShadzi at aol.com Thu Jan 2 18:48:05 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: 20vt fuel injector question Message-ID: <5F083876.173FEB5F.0016D39D@aol.com> Yes, looks about right, not saying 100%, but there is a good chance, the only other factor being overall length, which should be withing a mm or two at worst. Javad >Fellow listers, > > >Does this injector look like it could fit a 3B engine? It seems so to me >but would it fit? > > >http://ebay0.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_204ec14571902cde0eeb89773bdea845/i-2.JPG > >Thanks for your answers, > > >Mihnea the 20vt tweeker > > From rizov_d at shaw.ca Thu Jan 2 17:49:58 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq- fuel system problem? Message-ID: <3588be358e39.358e393588be@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I don?t have a spare ECU or altitude compensator. Is there any way to test the compensator? There is something else I have observed: With engine running and differential pressure current steady at 17,7 mA: If I close the full throttle switch the current changes to 10,7 mA Immediately after releasing the switch (open) the current is 7,7 ? 8,4 mA but only for a blink of an eye and changes to steady 17,7mA. I even tested the ECU side of the connector, mainly for ground or broken OXS wire, but tests went o.k. The only thing I can think (beside altitude compensator you suggested) is the flow meter potentiometer. Thx, Dobby ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Lum Date: Thursday, January 2, 2003 5:31 pm Subject: RE: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq > > > -----Original Message----- > From: rizov_d@shaw.ca [mailto:rizov_d@shaw.ca] > Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 3:11 PM > To: Tony Lum > Subject: Re: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq > > > > > > Hello, > > > > Tests I performed and results regarding resistance of coolant > temperaturesensor: > > > > Cold: 4.5 kohm > > Hot: 225 ohm > > > > ECU voltage: 4.97 V > > > > It seems to me that coolant temperature sensor is o.k. > > I have to look for the cause of that rich stop condition (17,7 V) > somewhereelse. > > > > Any suggestions? > > > > Thx, > > > > Dobby > > > Would you happen to have a spare ecu? One last thought is the > altitudecompensator mounted next to the ecu. > > Tony > > > > From tnatili at netzero.net Thu Jan 2 20:12:08 2003 From: tnatili at netzero.net (tnatili) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: ( no subject) No start condition, no spark References: <20021230032039.1730.60407.Mailman@www.audifans.com> <000d01c2b05f$0eba7e80$24905343@dell450> Message-ID: <001001c2b2c5$23e4e4e0$08e6143f@hppav> In reply to my fello audi fans, please excuse my ignorance in reguard to the no subject line. My problem with my 89 200TQ was that I had a no start condition one day when I shut the car off. It would not start. After about 30 min it fired right up. My first place for advice was Scott Mockry. I perused his web site for ideas(his suggestion) and my bently manuals. I also searched through the archives to see if anyone else had the same problems. well alot of the listers had no start conditions ,but none like mine. After about two weeks of trying to figure out what the problem was I ended up going through the list of checks from scott's web page and from the bently manuals . Finally, I found that the ignition timing sensor (black connector) on the bell housing was showing an open circuit when measured with an ohm meter after the car was run for 15min. After 30 minutes of cooling off the sensor read the 1K ohm it should have. I reconnected the connector and it fired up. Tom 89 200TQ ----- Original Message ----- From: "SJ" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 6:56 PM Subject: re:( no subject) > It's no wonder that finding useful information in the archives is so hard. > Subject is "No subject" > No link in the posts to original problem. > > Tom: be nice and post a followup: > Subject line describing problem. > State the problem, car, year, etc > Add all the hints that you got regarding problem. > Resolution of problem. > > Help out the next guy(me) who will have the same problem. > > > > SJ > 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto > 85 4k - - sold but still on the road > 88 5kq > 90 100q > > > > > > > Message: 6 > > From: "tnatili" > > To: , > > Subject: Re: (no subject) > > Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 18:29:46 -0500 > > > > I found the problem it's an ignition timing sensor. Thanks everyone for > your > > suggestions. > > > > Tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: "tnatili" > > Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 3:40 PM > > Subject: Re: (no subject) > > > > > > > Usually this is a leak down of fuel pressure. Check for: > > > > > > 1. leaking injectors > > > 2. leaking fuel pump check valve > > > 3. non-functional injector cooling fan system > > > > > > See Scott Mockry's web site under Warm Start or Hot Start > troubleshooting. > > > > > > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/ > > > > > > HTH, > > > Eric > > > From syljay at optonline.net Thu Jan 2 20:49:41 2003 From: syljay at optonline.net (SJ) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Oxygen sensor test References: <20030102013235.1314.96280.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <001101c2b2ca$61b78430$24905343@dell450> Try this site for oxygen sensor testing > http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/O2_Sensor.html Did you check the archives? Lots of stuff there also under "oxygen sensor test" New sensor is only $60 or thereabouts. If you have close to 50k on yours . .. put a new one in. You do the work yourself right? Oh yes, test the new one as explained in the URL before you put it in. BTDT SJ 85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto 85 4k - - sold but still on the road 88 5kq 90 100q > > Message: 19 > From: "Danae Kranski" > To: > Subject: Oxygen sensor test > Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2003 18:32:07 -0700 > > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I have been trying to pass the NOx portion of an emission test and would > like a practical way that I could test the O2 sensor (3 wire -2 white & > 1 black) with a digital multimeter if possible. The car in question is a > 1990 80 series Q, 2.3L. I have had a shop test the sensor with a scope > and they said it was working fine. They also said that they enriched > the mixture on this fuel injection system which I have come to find out > that with the KE-Jetronic system, enrichment is not adjustable and is > control by the ECU automatically. > > Suspicious > Richard From lsm6 at northcoast.com Thu Jan 2 18:44:21 2003 From: lsm6 at northcoast.com (Lloyd McClelland) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Parting out '88 80Q in Nor Cal... Message-ID: <001201c2b2d2$06536480$4114d1d1@pavilion> I'm keeping the drive train (for now) as my Son says hes looking for another one. BUT I'm stripping it before its last last journey to the ftattening at the wrecker , how sad hopefully some of the parts will live on in the '90 Coupe Quattro. Mauve red with grey interior. Anybody need anything ? Lloyd in Eureka, Calif From bob at audisport.com Thu Jan 2 21:37:49 2003 From: bob at audisport.com (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: Part number wanted Message-ID: <3E14F77D.60301@audisport.com> I cant find it in FA, but does anyone have the part number for the grounding plate for the motor on the 3B? On the intake there is a small plate of metal that has all the grounding wires (intake) TIA Bob From crankshaft at adelphia.net Thu Jan 2 18:58:02 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:49 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: <3E14FC3A.7080004@adelphia.net> I wonder when JordanVW will add his response? This could get ugly when he does. Enjoying myself, Aaron From ssprague at nmgovlaw.com Thu Jan 2 18:59:51 2003 From: ssprague at nmgovlaw.com (Steven Sprague) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Another Possible Lister??? Message-ID: <3E14FCA7.C9E1BE46@nmgovlaw.com> Hi All, Hope your New Year's was fun and safe! Yesterday, 01/01/03, while driving on Hwy 50 westbound between the Folsom blvd and Hazel exits a white 5000CStq Avant with the plates "Audi Dr" blew passed us as we were getting off at Hazel. I've seen this vehicle in the Sacramento, CA area. Anyone? Also, in Roseville, CA, spotted a silver S4 (A4 body) with 17" 5 swirl spoked wheels and fully dark tinted windows. Parked by it off Cirby, in the neighborhood east of Sunrise. Anyone? One last one, a pristine Silver 85-87 4000s, non-quattro in stock condition. This one was in the parking lot in front of REI in Roseville across from the Galleria. Did see a few others, but can't remember... Steve 91 200q20v From rizov_d at shaw.ca Thu Jan 2 20:23:50 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq Message-ID: <35e24735e7e9.35e7e935e247@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] CO adjustment screw has effect on engine work but not on the readings (mA). I was able to kill the engine with lean and rich adjustments. Readings were not changed. What is ?CSV?? Besides the visual inspection for vacuum leaks (cracks) is there any more advanced method? (I have this car for 5 years) Dobby -----Original Message----- From: rizov_d@shaw.ca [mailto:rizov_d@shaw.ca] Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 4:47 PM To: Tony Lum Subject: Re: RE: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq I don?t have a spare ECU or altitude compensator. Is there any way to test the compensator? There is something else I have observed: With engine running and differential pressure current steady at 17,7 mA: If I close the full throttle switch the current changes to 10,7 mA Immediately after releasing the switch (open) the current is 7,7 ? 8,4 mA but only for a blink of an eye and changes to steady 17,7mA. I even tested the ECU side of the connector, mainly for ground or broken OXS wire, but tests went o.k. The only thing I can think (beside altitude compensator you suggested) is the flow meter potentiometer. Thx, Dobby I'll have to look that one up in the Bentley. Basically it is a pot similar to the mass airflow sensor. The "arm" is attached to a pressure chamber which changes the resistance based on air pressure on the chamber. However, the change effect is pretty miniscule, while your readings are almost off the scale. Normal current at idle should be 8-10 mA, so you're running extremely rich. Does the CO adjust screw have any effect at all? (turn to the left to lean, turn to the right to rich). Also are you positive all vacuum connections are air tight? 2 sneaky leaks come via the oil filler gasket which when old gets old and cracked. The second is the plumbling around the CSV. There is a connection there that is hard to see. I accidentally bumped it off and my '85 4kq started to run very rough. If this happened suddenly, then re-check all hoses including the big one to the M-A-S for cracks. If this a new to you car , then someone has "run up" the adjustment to compensate for the extra air and the system is completely out of adjustment. Tony From suffolk.associates at verizon.net Thu Jan 2 22:43:33 2003 From: suffolk.associates at verizon.net (Suffolk GameServer LAN) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 20V avant info In-Reply-To: <20030102220043.22993.79597.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: The motor I think is easier to work around. Not the distributor though. It is EFI and IM is across from the Em not on top like the 10V UFO's were on the car may have been down graded to 1990 10V or 93 S4 rotors.' My Ufo's started pulsing 240 miles into ownership. Wider tires fit nicely. I can take photos etc. HTH - Scott in BOSTON had 1990 10V MC-2 and now 1991 200 20V 3B From george164 at earthlink.net Thu Jan 2 19:35:48 2003 From: george164 at earthlink.net ( george nimmer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: headgasket Message-ID: Yes, my '85 4kq blew a hg this summer and displayed this identical symptoms. rough running, white smoke (extra thick on cold startup), exhaust smells of coolant. Also, when I changed the oil, it came out chocolate-brown colored and very wattery. I had to add a half gallon of coolant every 30 mins to keep it cool for the day or so before the hg was changed. Mine failed b/c the radiator was the original 18+ year old part and didn't work well at all. I just wasn't watching the temp gauge closely and I guess just a quick overheat was enough to blow it. IMO, an hg job on an I5 is a royal PITA. George '84 & '85 4kq's > >boy that really sounds like what my car did when >the hg let go.. > >rough idle, white smoke, stinks of coolant, etc. > >bummer. > >jim > -------------- A friend of mine has got a 90q (10v) which has started smoking a lot lately. It's cold here now, so I know that moisture in the exhaust makes some smoke, but this car smokes thick, the exhaust really stinks and it idles very rough.. The exhaust is white in color. I don't really know what it smells like. It might smell a bit of coolant, but these engines are not known for blowing head gaskets? A radiator hose popped off recently, and he drove about 1 mile after the low coolant warning lighted up. Could this cause a blown head gasket? ---------------- From ti at amb.org Thu Jan 2 19:55:33 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq In-Reply-To: <35e24735e7e9.35e7e935e247@shaw.ca> from "rizov_d@shaw.ca" at Jan 02, 2003 08:23:50 PM Message-ID: <200301030355.DAA18372@amb.org> rizov_d@shaw.ca writes: > CO adjustment screw has effect on engine work but not on the readings (mA). > I was able to kill the engine with lean and rich adjustments. Readings were > not changed. Then this means your ECU isn't really controlling the differntial pressure regulator (oxygen sensor bad or disconnected? ECU not getting power? check fuse in fuse/relay panel position 24 (second one from the right of the horizontal row, near the edge). It's the only one in that row which is not a "spare fuse". > What is CSV Cold start valve. > Besides the visual inspection for vacuum leaks (cracks) is there any more > advanced method? Get a copy of the Bentley manual and debug the system according to the documented procedures. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From 4ktq at myrealbox.com Thu Jan 2 20:05:51 2003 From: 4ktq at myrealbox.com (derek) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 5-cylinder turbo bolt-on question Message-ID: <006801c2b2dd$67f43790$0200000a@desktop> For those who have installed watercooled turbo parts onto 5-cylinder motors not originally equipped, where did you route the lower turbo water line to? Is there some trick to pulling out the freeze plug without removing the manifolds or head? Did you find water somewhere else, like those two plugs on the back of the head? One of the heater core pipes? Stupidly I left this step for last while converting a JT motor with KH turbo parts and wiring. Everything is installed, the motor started today (sounds great with just the downpipe!), but I can't add coolant and test drive until this is resolved. Grr. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. -Derek '86 4ktq mc-1 '84 4ktq kh / jt '84 GTi 2.0 '87 GTi 16v From randrews at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 2 22:06:58 2003 From: randrews at sbcglobal.net (Rob Andrews) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: DTCS 17535, 17537...long term fuel trim rich on my A4... Message-ID: <003d01c2b2dd$8fedad30$7101a8c0@rob> If anyone of you guys has ideas...I'd love to hear em... Below are copies of email between myself and another Audi tech friend.... Ok ....here is the latest in my diagnostic. Bank 1 and 2 still going to -25% I looked at block 001 and 004 for coolant temp to see if that was going crazy but the reading seemed fine. There are no pinched fuel hoses that I can see and I looked from the tank to the rail. I pinched off the purge valve and that made no difference. Swapped FPR and MAF, cleaned thottle body, changed plugs (which seemed to help for a little while...went to -21% and then rich to -25% after a day) What am I missing? I'm about to jump from a cliff! Pinched off the valve (tried both sides, but only 1 at a time) and it made no difference. I did just swap my plugs and I will drive the car tomorrow to see if that helps. The old ones looked tired. I'll get undeneath to check for fuel hose crimps tomorrow, and swap another MAF with an A6 that is known to be good to see if it helps. I'll report back once I have these findings. So far... Still stumped :( > -----Original Message----- > > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 4:52 AM > To: rob@robsaudiworld.com > Subject: Re: Hey Mike... > > > Early 99 probably don,t have 211. > The purge valve is on the right hand side of engine bay on > top of air > cleaner assembly. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rob Andrews" > To: > Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 11:51 PM > Subject: RE: > > > Thanks! > > But where the heck if the fuel tank purge valve? > > Measuring block 211? That seems pretty high. I have an > early 99 model > > (i.e. the first of 99s to make it over here) > > The light only comes only when cruising. My fuel trim is > -25 and -23.4% > for > > bank 1 and bank 2...pretty darn rich. It only takes a few > minutes of > > driving to get it that way as well. > > o2 sensors seem to be fluctuating enough, from around .1 to > almost .9 > volts > > and the heaters look to be working. > > I'm going to try one more MAF tomorrow in hopes that may > cure it...but I > > don't hold my breath... > > I'll poke around bentley somewhere and play with the car tomorrow. > > As always...your help is gratefully appreciated. > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: mike hadley > > > Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 6:51 PM > > > To: rob@robsaudiworld.com > > > Subject: Re: > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Rob Andrews" > > > To: "' > > > Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 10:10 PM > > > Subject: RE: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Well I hate to bug you again, but I figured I could use > > > your expertise. > > > > My 99 A4 2.8Q is throwing DTCs 17535 and 17537...long term > > > fuel trim rich > > > > for bank 1 and bank 2. > > > > I tested the MAF, and swapped with another friends, > swapped the FPR, > > > tested > > > > the 02 sensors with Vag-com and meter and they seem to be > > > within spec. > > > > Any other ideas what could cause such a problem? > > > > > > > > Rob > > > > > > > I take it with a known good mass meter it still came on? > > > I guess the 1rst thing would be to pinch of the fuel tank > > > purge valve to > > > make sure it is not sucking fuel vapors when it is not > supposed to. > > > make sure the fuel return hose did not get pinched > under the car ( > > > sometimes damaged on lifts or jacks) which will raise > fuel pressure. > > > With the Vag com look at measureing block 211 in Engine. > > > See if it shows > > > Maf grams per seconds. There should be a specified and actual > > > amount. Drive > > > the car under load and watch numbers, they should stay > > > close.( does not work > > > on all 99 and earlier cars) > > > Also does the light come on at idle or when cruising? > > > Let me know. > > > P.S. if it cures the problem when pinching off the purge > > > valve it may be > > > the valve or a saturated charcoal canister ( if you like to > > > squeeze every > > > bit of gas when filling. > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- Rob Andrews 99 A4 2.8QS 83 Ur-Q www.robsaudiworld.com Visit my new web page! From tronalex at lek.net Thu Jan 2 23:25:08 2003 From: tronalex at lek.net (tronalex) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: <01C2B2B6.341E7B00.tronalex@lek.net> wrote: "True cars and parts do belong in the Marketplace, but nobody ever looks there." Those of us that wish to are subscribed to the Audifans Marketplace list. Very easy to do, if You wish to. Sorry, Back to Lurk Mode The Other Tyson 86 4kcsq --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.423 / Virus Database: 238 - Release Date: 11/25/02 From edkellock at juno.com Thu Jan 2 21:44:24 2003 From: edkellock at juno.com (edkellock@juno.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: <20030102.214608.-1256509.0.EdKellock@juno.com> Don't bother looking, just subscribe to the Marketplace list. On Thu, 02 Jan 2003 17:53:34 -0500 Huw Powell writes: > > > I would guess that JordanVw decide to add "email me for more > details" so > > that those interested parties could ask about said details. > > Saving what, 15-20 characters? > > > I would bet > > he also wanted to avoid getting crap about not putting the item on > the > > marketplace. > > Here's some crap... that's where cars for sale *belong*... > > -- > Huw Powell > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/ > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > > ________________________________________________________________ Sign Up for Juno Platinum Internet Access Today Only $9.95 per month! Visit www.juno.com From suffolk.associates at verizon.net Fri Jan 3 00:14:03 2003 From: suffolk.associates at verizon.net (Suffolk GameServer LAN) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Door handle woes In-Reply-To: <20030102013235.1314.96280.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: Amen: Just like a traffic cop preventing you from opening your drivers door. (Your) Knee against the trim across the door midsection. Notice how much easier the door handle operates? Hmmmmmmmmmmm. I like that, able to get in and further put off preventive maintenance. LOL HTH - Scott in BOSTON >To keep reduce wear on doorhandle parts, if you press in on the door while >squeezing the trigger, it helps. From dave at expertfriend.com Fri Jan 3 00:18:44 2003 From: dave at expertfriend.com (Dave Arkle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Door handle woes References: Message-ID: <003c01c2b2e7$969daae0$9701a8c0@MINIME> re: door handle woes...check out this link. http://www.audiquattroparts.com/doorprob.htm Dave Arkle DoD #11011 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for an Audi TQ... From JShadzi at aol.com Fri Jan 3 00:29:01 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 5-cylinder turbo bolt-on question Message-ID: <108.1d4b280e.2b46799d@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Derek, yes, you can go back into the heater core line if you want, that's probably the easiest thing to do, just use like a T-fitting with 2-5/8" nipples and one 3/8" or similar. Javad In a message dated 1/2/2003 8:11:01 PM Pacific Standard Time, 4ktq@myrealbox.com writes: > For those who have installed watercooled turbo parts onto 5-cylinder motors > not originally equipped, where did you route the lower turbo water line to? > Is there some trick to pulling out the freeze plug without removing the > manifolds or head? Did you find water somewhere else, like those two plugs > on the back of the head? One of the heater core pipes? > > Stupidly I left this step for last while converting a JT motor with KH > turbo > parts and wiring. Everything is installed, the motor started today (sounds > great with just the downpipe!), but I can't add coolant and test drive > until > this is resolved. Grr. > From rizov_d at shaw.ca Fri Jan 3 00:34:27 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq Message-ID: <37008b36deca.36deca37008b@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Cat is history; fuel filters were replaced last weekend. OXS fluctuates. With or without OXS the current is steady 17,7 mA. I did purge with LM Jectron Cleaner and Ventil Sauber. Fuse 24 is o.k. (I?ve had an issue with it years ago). Measurements I did at the ECU connector (Bentley procedure) did show no problems. Is there any way to test the ECU, or to look to borrow another one for test on the car? Hope to find some in salvages around (Calgary, Canada). I?ll replace the oil filler gasket, but do not see what is the relation with intake manifold? Ti, your web page is rather impressive(and content)!! (I used to manufacture active audio boxes with mechanical feedback) Dobby From human747 at attbi.com Fri Jan 3 02:58:14 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq References: <37008b36deca.36deca37008b@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <3E154296.C8A73933@attbi.com> > > OXS fluctuates. > > With or without OXS the current is steady 17,7 mA. There's something contradictory about those observations. In order for the OXS to fluctuate (properly... up and down around .5 volts), the mixture *must* be oscillating above and below stoich, or a perfect clean fuel/air ratio. For this to happen, in this closed loop system, the actuator current must also fluctuate, since it controls that mixture based on the OXS output... How are you measuring the current? Something seems fishy... Look on my site under "tuning CISE" in... the middle left menu I think, for a picture of this measurement being taken, see if that corresponds to what you are doing. Also, a question I had bu didn't ask earlier on - where is this phrase "rich stop" coming from? bentley? Just curious, never heard it before... and good luck... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From flyboysteve at usa.com Fri Jan 3 02:58:29 2003 From: flyboysteve at usa.com (Steve Beeler) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 4kq vs 5kq rear suspension Message-ID: <20030103075830.99299.qmail@mail.com> I've recently bought my 1st 5k quattro and in looking at the rear suspension geometery (strange to say the least), combined with what I know of the rear suspension in my 4kcsq was wondering if the "passive assist articulated rear wheel steering" that the 4kq has, is not available on the 5kq. Don't get me wrong, the car still handles great, but, the rear suspension on the 4kq was so advanced and ahead of it's time, I would have thought it would have been on the flagship vehicle as well. I can't really tell just by looking at the rear geometry on the 5KQ (it's possible they might turn, but, my guess is probably not). Does anyone know? and What up with that?? -- __________________________________________________________ Sign-up for your own FREE Personalized E-mail at Mail.com http://www.mail.com/?sr=signup Meet Singles http://corp.mail.com/lavalife From Greg.Roa at Cinergy.COM Fri Jan 3 07:37:54 2003 From: Greg.Roa at Cinergy.COM (Roa, Greg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 4kq running cold- SOLVED (long) Message-ID: <03DEE71E2CDCB74A8BDD7194E349A51406D55D@excincybe03.cinergy.com> You know, I almost missed this, as I was scanning the archives after getting back from vacation. My 4kq does exactly the same thing. I can run on the highway on a cold day, and never get past the first mark on the temp gauge (the one outside of the red area). Of course, the thing that always puzzled me was that I had a new thermostat, and the car seemed to reach regular operating temp very quickly when I got off of the highway. I wouldn't doubt that this affects the fuel mileage of our 4kq's in the winter as well. If the CIS sensor is reading that the engine still needs to warm up the entire time I'm driving to work, I'd guess the mixture is a bit off the whole time. Might explain a little of the very marked difference in fuel economy I see when the weather gets cold (outside of the change to winter fuels at the pumps). Thanks for the info Peter. I'm going to make a "windshield" for my sensors this weekend. Greg Roa Cincinnati, OH 86' 4kcsq 93' 90 CS 83' 944 >From: Lines Peter >To: "'quattro@audifans.com'" >Subject: 4kq running cold- SOLVED (long) >Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 10:31:02 -0800 > >About a year ago, I posted that my 4kq seemed to be running too cold in cold >weather. The symptoms were that the water temp gauge would drop to the >first mark on the highway, but then rise to the middle of the range when >stopped and idling. The rad. cooling fan would also cycle normally if >idling for a long period. >I first suspected a stuck open thermostat so I replaced it. No improvement. >It is an 87C thermostat. >I then checked the accuracy of my dashboard water temp gauge by inserting a >borrowed thermocouple into the upper coolant hose connection at the engine. >After 5-10 minutes of idling, the fan cycles on and off as the thermocouple >reads 95-93C and the gauge is steady at the third mark (right above the >center of the gauge). So I'm thinking no problem with the gauge, the water >must really be getting too cold on the highway. >At some point during the past year I replaced the radiator due to a small >leak, although this didn't change any of the temp. behavior and I think it's >unrelated. >I then proceeded to make a cover to block air flow for about 3/4 of the >radiator. A short test drive showed that this did not raise the highway >temperature one bit. Darn. >On a recent trip to Whistler, BC (the skiing was great, BTW) I noticed that >even while the water temp gauge was reading very low, the oil temp was >normal (as it always has been) and I get plenty of interior heat. Both >conditions that seem to indicate that the water temp is OK and something is >wrong with my gauge. >I also noticed how dirty my engine would get when driving on wet winter >roads. All the crap kicked up by other cars would completely coat the >engine. I began to realize that air flow through the grill is directed >straight onto engine (not first through the radiator as on most non-5 cyl >cars). Is my engine getting air-cooled while on the highway? Not likely. >But what about the sender for the water temp gauge? It's just sort of >hanging our there in the breeze. Could it be getting cooled off by the air >flowing over it? On my next fuel stop, I pop the hood and stuff a rag >around the sender to block the direct airflow. Bingo! The gauge is now >rock-steady at the 3rd mark whether I'm driving 80mph or stopped in traffic. >Long story short, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the cooling system >on my car, never has been. It just took me a while to figure out why the >gauge has been reading low... >Now I'm wondering about the affect of the lower temp sender on the CIS >computer. I probably want to block the airflow to this one as well. > >Peter Lines From passat_ts at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 13:24:11 2003 From: passat_ts at hotmail.com (passat TS) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Shipping from Germany Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] It is very expensive. A 5 cyl cam was about $35. Later, Carlos. >From: "TT" >Reply-To: "TT" >To: >Subject: Shipping from Germany >Date: Thu, 2 Jan 2003 13:05:18 -0800 > >Does anybody have any experience with shipping from Germany - particularly what it would cost to get >4 wheels to the US? > >Thank you for any experience! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMFEN/2018 From kris_j_hansen at yahoo.com Fri Jan 3 05:41:02 2003 From: kris_j_hansen at yahoo.com (Kris Hansen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: DTCS 17535, 17537...long term fuel trim rich on my A4... In-Reply-To: <003d01c2b2dd$8fedad30$7101a8c0@rob> Message-ID: <20030103134102.43063.qmail@web9905.mail.yahoo.com> Hey Rob, Have you removed power from the ECU to clear it of any previous learning? Might be worth a shot.. Kris --- Rob Andrews wrote: > If anyone of you guys has ideas...I'd love to hear > em... > Below are copies of email between myself and another > Audi tech friend.... > > > Ok ....here is the latest in my diagnostic. > Bank 1 and 2 still going to -25% > I looked at block 001 and 004 for coolant temp to > see if that was going > crazy but the reading seemed fine. There are no > pinched fuel hoses that I > can see and I looked from the tank to the rail. I > pinched off the purge > valve and that made no difference. Swapped FPR and > MAF, cleaned thottle > body, changed plugs (which seemed to help for a > little while...went to -21% > and then rich to -25% after a day) > What am I missing? I'm about to jump from a cliff! > > Pinched off the valve (tried both sides, but only 1 > at a time) and it made > no difference. > I did just swap my plugs and I will drive the car > tomorrow to see if that > helps. The old ones looked tired. I'll get undeneath > to check for fuel hose > crimps tomorrow, and swap another MAF with an A6 > that is known to be good to > see if it helps. I'll report back once I have these > findings. > So far... > Still stumped :( > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2002 4:52 AM > > To: rob@robsaudiworld.com > > Subject: Re: Hey Mike... > > > > > > Early 99 probably don,t have 211. > > The purge valve is on the right hand side of > engine bay on > > top of air > > cleaner assembly. > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Rob Andrews" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 11:51 PM > > Subject: RE: > > > > > Thanks! > > > But where the heck if the fuel tank purge valve? > > > Measuring block 211? That seems pretty high. I > have an > > early 99 model > > > (i.e. the first of 99s to make it over here) > > > The light only comes only when cruising. My fuel > trim is > > -25 and -23.4% > > for > > > bank 1 and bank 2...pretty darn rich. It only > takes a few > > minutes of > > > driving to get it that way as well. > > > o2 sensors seem to be fluctuating enough, from > around .1 to > > almost .9 > > volts > > > and the heaters look to be working. > > > I'm going to try one more MAF tomorrow in hopes > that may > > cure it...but I > > > don't hold my breath... > > > I'll poke around bentley somewhere and play with > the car tomorrow. > > > As always...your help is gratefully appreciated. > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > From: mike hadley > > > > Sent: Monday, December 30, 2002 6:51 PM > > > > To: rob@robsaudiworld.com > > > > Subject: Re: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: "Rob Andrews" > > > > To: "' > > > > Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2002 10:10 PM > > > > Subject: RE: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Well I hate to bug you again, but I figured > I could use > > > > your expertise. > > > > > My 99 A4 2.8Q is throwing DTCs 17535 and > 17537...long term > > > > fuel trim rich > > > > > for bank 1 and bank 2. > > > > > I tested the MAF, and swapped with another > friends, > > swapped the FPR, > > > > tested > > > > > the 02 sensors with Vag-com and meter and > they seem to be > > > > within spec. > > > > > Any other ideas what could cause such a > problem? > > > > > > > > > > Rob > > > > > > > > > I take it with a known good mass meter it > still came on? > > > > I guess the 1rst thing would be to pinch of > the fuel tank > > > > purge valve to > > > > make sure it is not sucking fuel vapors when > it is not > > supposed to. > > > > make sure the fuel return hose did not get > pinched > > under the car ( > > > > sometimes damaged on lifts or jacks) which > will raise > > fuel pressure. > > > > With the Vag com look at measureing block 211 > in Engine. > > > > See if it shows > > > > Maf grams per seconds. There should be a > specified and actual > > > > amount. Drive > > > > the car under load and watch numbers, they > should stay > > > > close.( does not work > > > > on all 99 and earlier cars) > > > > Also does the light come on at idle or when > cruising? > > > > Let me know. > > > > P.S. if it cures the problem when pinching off > the purge > > > > valve it may be > > > > the valve or a saturated charcoal canister ( > if you like to > > > > squeeze every > > > > bit of gas when filling. > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > Rob Andrews > 99 A4 2.8QS 83 Ur-Q > www.robsaudiworld.com > Visit my new web page! > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From critchie1 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 14:11:12 2003 From: critchie1 at hotmail.com (Christopher Ritchie) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: >Subject: Re: 5Ks windows Message-ID: > > Is there something that can be put onto the rubber pieces of the door >and > > windows to prevent them from sticking? A little lubricant? Something >like > > "armor-all" (I don't use the stuff myself but something like that)? > >When I remember to winterize my cars, I usually spray the rubber seals >with silicone lube. Seems to work well. Also graphite poweder for the >locks, and lithium or teflon spray for the door handles and stuff. > I thought silicone was bad for rubber - caused it to deteriorate??? _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From DGraber460 at aol.com Fri Jan 3 10:15:32 2003 From: DGraber460 at aol.com (DGraber460@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V Message-ID: <23A62C30.437B5A5A.0A36A789@aol.com> What is the consesus of whether the 95 S6 is worth the almost 2-3 times the price of a 91 200 20V. I always feel that one should buy the newest version in the best shape one can afford, but is the S6 that much better of a car? Dennis Denver From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 3 07:47:34 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V In-Reply-To: <23A62C30.437B5A5A.0A36A789@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030103154734.42757.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> --- DGraber460@aol.com wrote: > What is the consesus of whether the 95 S6 is worth > the almost 2-3 times the price of a 91 200 20V. > I always feel that one should buy the newest version > in the best shape one can afford, but is the S6 that > much better of a car? I think the main points you have to look at are, how much are you going to put into it as far as mods go, and how refined do you want it? I think if both of these are high priorities, the S6 is your answer. I've heard the 91 200 20v is a little more of a drivers car for performance though, and the cheeper price leaves room for lots of mods, but it is a type 44. I think that the 95 S6's are finally starting to hit a reasonable price level. Sure the really low mileage cars are still going for $20k plus, but I've also seen them for ~15k which kind of get's me thinking about purchasing my next car, a 95 S6. Did they make those in yellow? :) ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From msvphoto at pacbell.net Fri Jan 3 10:13:31 2003 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 4kq vs 5kq rear suspension Message-ID: <008a01c2b353$d33f6580$1f00a8c0@mike> I'm sure those much more experienced in suspension designs will chime in, but, I have never heard the phrase "passive assist articulated rear wheel steering" associated with 4kq rear suspension. Where did that come from? What does it mean? Anyway, the 4kq rear suspension is really the front suspension, backwards. I have heard it called a "Chapman Strut" design, but am not 100% sure it is. I adore 4kqs (and Ur-Qs of course) and have owned 4 of 'em to date (and drive one pretty much all the time now). However, the rear quattro suspension design first seen in the type 44 (5kq) is a much more complex and, arguably, better design for the larger chassis cars. The downside being a lot more bushings to replace when they wear out though. For a rather large and heavy cars, the type 44, C4, etc. quattros all are exceptional handling cars IMO. Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 3 10:20:03 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Blau 272 sport cam on sale for $199! Message-ID: <20030103182003.43930.qmail@web20006.mail.yahoo.com> I just ordered one of these expecting to pay the normal price of $259, but the when the lady told me $209 for my total with 2nd day air mail, I had to make her double check to make sure it was the right one! Then she said, yes, we have those on sale, with free shipping, and $10 2nd day fedex! Sounds like a pretty good deal to me:) Later, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From gregsj2 at attbi.com Fri Jan 3 10:24:38 2003 From: gregsj2 at attbi.com (Greg Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V Message-ID: <3E15D566.1070801@attbi.com> Dennis Weaver wrote: >What is the consesus of whether the 95 S6 is worth the almost 2-3 times the price of a 91 200 20V. >I always feel that one should buy the newest version in the best shape one can afford, but is the S6 that much better of a car? I faced this same issue before I purchased my '91 200-20V TQA. At the outset, I must state that I have no prejudices one way or the other; I love the 200 and I love the S6. When I was weighing my options, the price differential between a 200 Avant and an S6 Avant (with about the same miles) was about $15K to $18K In the end, I decided this price differential would allow me to do a bunch of mods that would make the 200 better than a stock S6 Avant and still have money in the bank. It took me a fairly long time to find the 200 I wanted (low miles with sports seats). Within weeks of getting the 200 I chipped it. Within the next few months, I installed Turbogas shocks, H&R springs, used 16in OEM S6 Avus wheels, Eurolights, and I replaced any obviously worn bushings. The next spring, I did a G60 conversion with used urS4 parts (should have done this when I did the shocks and springs) and eventually added BIRA Sys 3 brakes (Porsche 996 monoblocs over 314x30mm Euro A8 rotors). Last spring I added a custom mandrel bent exhaust and a Benz Brace. This fall, I finally found some decently priced 17in OZ Superlegs. After the sale of the S6 wheels, the OZ's cost me $400. This spring a good friend in the Fatherland will help me complete the mods, by obtaining an RS2 Turbo and the necessary bits. With all these mods, my 200 will still cost less than what the S6 Avant would have cost and there's no doubt that it's a better car. Will I get all of what I put into the 200 back out it at sale time? Probably not, but it's one heck of car and I'm really enjoying it. Just my opinion, Greg From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 3 10:29:36 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Ceramic coating aftermath Message-ID: <20030103182936.10084.qmail@web20002.mail.yahoo.com> Well, as some may know, the coating I ended up using (Techline Satin Black) has been flaking off ever since I started the car. I went down to the shop that did it, Applied Plastic Coatings in Denver, and had them look at it. Everyone in the shop was out there scatching thier heads, swearing this was a first. Anyways, they really wanted to re-do it, but there is no way I'm taking that header out right now. Instead they gave me a full refund, and I was on my way. I guess it's possible they had a bad batch, but it really looks like they just contaminated the area somehow. So would I still recommend them? Maybe if I was in a time crunch, but I think next time I'll be mailing it out to one of the other places. FWIW, the ares that are still coated are very impressive. It's easy to tell how much cooler they just by putting your hand over it. At least I have money for that new cam now:) Later, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 18:51:56 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Re; any interest in a 20v Avant Message-ID: I didn't give you crap out of idle curiosity, I'm interested. Awaiting details, of course pics are even better. Mike a friend of mine is selling his red '90 200TQ w/ platinum grey sport interior.. everything works, body and interior in super shape. car in atlanta but can deliver. email me for more details chris _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Fri Jan 3 19:53:10 2003 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 90q engine swap Message-ID: The 90q I asked about yesterday (thanks for all replies) did have a blown head gasket, at least. Cylinders 4 and 5 are wet in coolant and have got really low compression, so now we know for sure. In addition, this engine has got ticking lifters, some leaks, old timing belt etc. I have a very good KU engine from an '87 100q sitting here. The engine in the 90q is a KV. We're thinking about putting in the KU engine instead of opening the old KV and possibly finding a warped head etc. Now to the point - I know I have to use the 90q alternator/power steering pump brackets and the 90q intake manifold/flywheel. Can I keep the type 44 exhaust manifold, will it match with the 90q downpipe? The old 90q engine has got a cracked and leaking manifold too.. Any other things that I need to transplant from the old engine to the "new"? -- E. Spangen '86 Audi 100 2.2 CS quattro From toastworks at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 19:41:43 2003 From: toastworks at hotmail.com (Dave NovaK) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: last call for 4k body parts in CT Message-ID: Hey all.. I have a gutted '86 4000 (non-quattro) in my driveway right now and it's going to be taken away to the scrapyard in about a week. It's white, and it isn't terribly pretty. The driver's door has a nice dent in it. All other doors are in ok shape.. trunk lid is good, hood is good. Front fenders are marginal.. I also have the 4-cyl 1.8l engine from the car (drove the thing home and stripped it) in my garage. It has 110k miles on it, and didn't smoke or leak anything. $150 and it's yours. I also have little bits and pieces from the car here and there so feel free to ask if you need anything. I'm not going to ship any of the body parts, but they're free if you wanna come to the car and yank them off yourself. I'm done taking parts off of it, so if you want any, they're yours. The car is basically a shell at this point. I'm in Milford, CT 06460 email me: toastworks@hotmail.com -Dave _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From jeremiahrabe at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 14:58:40 2003 From: jeremiahrabe at hotmail.com (Jay Rabe) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: water cooled... Message-ID: You would want to tap the supply from something below the headgasket, this is a restrictor to the coolant flow, and causes a little higher pressure in the block, thats why the use the freeze plug. I think the 'special' freeze plug is under $10. If you hit the side of a freeze plug with a big screwdriver and a hammer it will usualy spin sideways and its easy to pull out. If they are rusted in a BFH will usualy pursuade it. the return can tap in anywhere above the head gasket. Mine is connected in the water neck coming out of the head. I wouldn't return it into the head, keep the heat out. the water neck (on the head) is where audi normaly returns the line. Anywhere between this neck and the radiator (top hose) is ok. HTH Jay 4kq 20vt efi&i'd _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From donohue at netconnx.net Fri Jan 3 15:08:35 2003 From: donohue at netconnx.net (Tom Donohue) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V References: <3E15D566.1070801@attbi.com> Message-ID: <002701c2b363$e5f94cd0$0300000a@D3N0M621> One other obvious difference...which could be a plus or minus depending how you use the car...is that the 200 20V is considerably larger than the S6. In my case, I have a 91 200 20V Avant and routinely haul substantial amounts of stuff (my wife has a resale shop and does estate cleanouts). The S6 just couldn't handle some of these loads. The Avant is my regular daily driver and sees a good amount of long distance driving as well. I'm sure the S6 would be just as enjoyable in that role, but as a "hauler" (in every sense of the word), the 200 20V is the best choice for me. Regards, Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Johnson" To: ; Sent: Friday, January 03, 2003 1:24 PM Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V > Dennis Weaver wrote: > > >What is the consesus of whether the 95 S6 is worth the almost 2-3 times the price of a 91 200 20V. > >I always feel that one should buy the newest version in the best shape one can afford, but is the S6 that much better of a car? > > I faced this same issue before I purchased my '91 200-20V TQA. At the outset, I must state that I have no prejudices one way or the other; I love the 200 and I love the S6. When I was weighing my options, the price differential between a 200 Avant and an S6 Avant (with about the same miles) was about $15K to $18K In the end, I decided this price differential would allow me to do a bunch of mods that would make the 200 better than a stock S6 Avant and still have money in the bank. > > It took me a fairly long time to find the 200 I wanted (low miles with sports seats). Within weeks of getting the 200 I chipped it. Within the next few months, I installed Turbogas shocks, H&R springs, used 16in OEM S6 Avus wheels, Eurolights, and I replaced any obviously worn bushings. The next spring, I did a G60 conversion with used urS4 parts (should have done this when I did the shocks and springs) and eventually added BIRA Sys 3 brakes (Porsche 996 monoblocs over 314x30mm Euro A8 rotors). Last spring I added a custom mandrel bent exhaust and a Benz Brace. This fall, I finally found some decently priced 17in OZ Superlegs. After the sale of the S6 wheels, the OZ's cost me $400. This spring a good friend in the Fatherland will help me complete the mods, by obtaining an RS2 Turbo and the necessary bits. > > With all these mods, my 200 will still cost less than what the S6 Avant would have cost and there's no doubt that it's a better car. Will I get all of what I put into the 200 back out it at sale time? Probably not, but it's one heck of car and I'm really enjoying it. > > Just my opinion, > > Greg > > From rizov_d at shaw.ca Fri Jan 3 13:42:27 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq Message-ID: <3a7fce3a333b.3a333b3a7fce@shaw.ca> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Please take a look at the attachment for a diagram from the book called ?Bosh Fuel Injection & Engine Management? for clarification what I mean as ?Rich stop? Even Bentley says that current 10 mA above is a rich stop and the cause is grounded OXS wire (green). That?s not the case here ? I checked accordingly the ECU side of the connector. OXS fluctuates 0.5-0.7 V At 3000 rpm is steady 0.8 V Does it detect rich condition? Is the ECU not able to correct (react) accordingly? When I measure the differential pressure regulator current I do not use a harness but simple set up: - a wire between the harness and the regulator - The second contacts are connected through multimeter (digital) As I mentioned previously the car runs fine to about 100 km, beyond gets gradually laboring and max. is (pedal to the floor) 130 km/h. Dobby -- [ 3TMP19.TIF of type application/octet-stream deleted ] From siambisg at uchastings.edu Fri Jan 3 13:35:39 2003 From: siambisg at uchastings.edu (siambisg@uchastings.edu) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: coolant hose flange with divet?? Message-ID: <520778493.1041629739950.JavaMail.siambisg@pericles.uchastings.edu> Yeah, imagine my surprise when I went back in there today and found another new mound sitting right where the old one had been .... :0 in this case the flange was about half way 'eaten' through, from the outside, so I'll just replace it. Wont have it until Monday, unfortunately. Ken, according to the Blau catalog, this flange is common to all 5cylinder models; but Didi has them (will have on Monday) for a little less & no shipping :) thanks, George S 88'90q >George, sounds like you have the basis for a majory Hollywood SciFi script, >do you have an agent?? ;) > >This is pretty common, not sure if its the result of electrolosys or just [....] >In a message dated 1/2/2003 7:03:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, >siambisg@uchastings.edu writes: > >> Just wondering if anyone has seen this. This flange holds the MFS switch on >> bottom and a dual temp sensor on the top. The divet, dime sized, is >> located on the outside top of the flange approx where the upper rad hose >> clamp goes around. It's as if something was eating into the flange. Also >> a black and brittle substance filled in the divet and created a small >> mound. It's either corrosion or a past repair with some type of filler. >> >> In any case, the relative thinness of metal at the center of the divet >> makes me nervous about putting it back in. >> >> George S >> '88 90q >> > > From tronalex at lek.net Fri Jan 3 16:34:51 2003 From: tronalex at lek.net (tronalex@lek.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:50 2003 Subject: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? In-Reply-To: References: <01C2B2B6.341E7B00.tronalex@lek.net> Message-ID: <1041629691.3e1601fb15f9f@webmail.lek.net> Fay, http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/marketplace should get You to the start of the process... HTH, The Other Tyson 864kcsq Quoting "Ice Cat ^. .^ ~" : > > > >Those of us that wish to are subscribed to the Audifans Marketplace > >list. Very easy to do, if You wish to. > > > >Sorry, Back to Lurk Mode > > > >The Other Tyson > > Would you please give us a URL for that ? > > Thanks > > Cheers, Fay > > Graphite iMac DV > OS 9.1 > IE 5.1.5 > Eudora Pro 4.2 > > http://home.earthlink.net/~iceisit/ > "Enjoy the edge you are on--don't think about the one to come!" > > From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Fri Jan 3 17:55:30 2003 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 q 20V salvage in Texas Message-ID: <79.629487f.2b476ee2@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Well I was the lucky, or maybe unluck high bidder on the 20V turbo car in Texas. Engine seems good ECU is toast as well as every other control unit below the transmission tunnel. It stinks too.. So anybody got an ECU I can buy/steal/borrow to see if the engine runs??? Or maybe anyone want to buy a 20V turbo engine minus ECU????? Scott From ssgacc at yahoo.com Fri Jan 3 15:12:24 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior Message-ID: <20030103231224.79769.qmail@web40712.mail.yahoo.com> Subject is an 89 200q, with Bosch 3 bulb (city, low and high) euros. Quad Bosch relays (one for each low and high bulb). Situation is: Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi beam indicator 1/2 bright. Hi Beam- city only on left, low and hi beam on right, hi beam indicator full bright. Flash to pass- same as low beams (low on left, both on right)...except hi beam indicator is full bright. So I'm thinking left high beam is blown? But lights switched off AND key off/out of ignition and BOTH bulbs on right and city only on left but hi beam indicator is now 1/ bright. So, is 30 circuit power leaking through a hosed combi-switch? Load reduction relay? One of the relays at the euros themselves? Or the high bulb on left? I'll investigate more tomorrow (Sat.), but looking for some input. TIA Jim Accordino ps- all connections at relays are tight and watersealed, as are the grounds. Of course I'll look at the grounds/connections again tomorrow. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From tnas at euronet.nl Sat Jan 4 00:13:03 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Three Audis, only one runs... Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030104000105.05969eb0@mail.euronet.nl> Hi all, It's definitely not my lucky day today. Drained the battery for the second time trying to start my '87 80 today, the car that always starts... Anyway, I was casually looking to see if I could find anything wrong when I found out that the air filter housing was rather loose. Ah, just fasten that a little... nope, it's firmly attached to the carb. Found my problem: the carb's no longer attached to the intake manifold! The bottom gasket has torn cleanly in two, which explains the rough running, hard starts and backfires I'd been experiencing over the last week or so. I'd guessed it needed plug leads, which it clearly doesn't. Looks like it shouldn't be too hard to change the gasket, even in an unlit car park at night. Let's hope it'll be at least dry, as it's been raining almost non-stop for the last coupla days here. This also seems to shout 'wash the engine compartment, you fool' as the previous owner's ignoring of the leaking valve cover gasket has covered the entire engine in oil, including the intake manifold. Oil + rubber = mush... Looks like I'll be taking the '77 80 on a 180 km round trip tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Tom From Mrfuzzyhead at aol.com Fri Jan 3 18:55:11 2003 From: Mrfuzzyhead at aol.com (Mrfuzzyhead@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: GT Coupe Quattro Rear wheel locked up, passenger side Message-ID: <03084AE7.7A054B7C.3D271AF9@aol.com> Hi, I am the proud new owner of an 87.5 GT Coupe Quattro, picked it up on 12/10/2002. The next Monday, 12/16/2002 dealer's mechanic installed new parking brake cable. Car runs great. New Years Day, I release the hand brake, it felt a little funny, didn't spring all the way back toward the floor. Sure enough, the wheel is locked up. Turns out it was the passenger side, rear wheel. Got under the car and neither of the new brake cables have any tension, but the brake is locked on. Would rather not attempt to have it towed, especially with the rear wheel locked up. Anybody seen this one before? Or have any suggestions? Sean From lindgre at online.no Sat Jan 4 01:07:47 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: GT Coupe Quattro Rear wheel locked up, passenger side References: <03084AE7.7A054B7C.3D271AF9@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E1625D3.7010808@online.no> Sounds like the rear caliper has seized. Common problem on VAG cars. PerL 87 Cq Mrfuzzyhead@aol.com wrote: >Hi, > >I am the proud new owner of an 87.5 GT Coupe Quattro, picked it up on 12/10/2002. > >The next Monday, 12/16/2002 dealer's mechanic installed new parking brake cable. > >Car runs great. > >New Years Day, I release the hand brake, it felt a little funny, didn't spring all the way back toward the floor. > >Sure enough, the wheel is locked up. Turns out it was the passenger side, rear wheel. > >Got under the car and neither of the new brake cables have any tension, but the brake is locked on. > >Would rather not attempt to have it towed, especially with the rear wheel locked up. > >Anybody seen this one before? Or have any suggestions? > >Sean > > > From 4ktq at myrealbox.com Fri Jan 3 16:39:30 2003 From: 4ktq at myrealbox.com (derek) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 5-cylinder turbo bolt-on, Resolved! Message-ID: <004501c2b389$beb9bc10$0200000a@desktop> I recieved numerous responses to my turbo water line dilemma. Thanks to Matt, Javad, Tony, Frederick, Aaron, Geraldo, Jay, and Elliott who wrote to offer ideas, techniques, parts, and overall encouragement. This project has dragged on beyond the point of being fun, I just want it to run and be finished. It's one step closer today. Now all it needs is a bracket to secure the oil cooler, hood pins, exhaust connection, and a grill to hide the intercooler. After trying and failing to remove freeze plugs from a junk block I decided against that plan. There wasn't enough room to drill and tap the water jacket for a fitting anywhere near the turbo. I ended up splicing a line into the heater core outlet pipe at the back of the block. The 5kt automatic donor supplied the T-fitting, originally intended for the transmission cooler. I cut all but the last inch or so from it, eliminated the restrictor, and spliced in some aluminum AC tube gutted from my Rabbit. I knew I was saving that for something! The AC hose bent easily and runs under the manifold between the wastegate and block, turns downward to escape some of the heat, passes under the motor mount, over the oil cooler thermostat, then splices again into the stock lower water line at the turbo. I'll have to keep an eye on the splices and heat but I think they'll be allright. Thanks everyone. -Derek '86 4ktq '84 4ktq '84 Gti 2.0 '87 Gti 16v From daveglu at hotmail.com Fri Jan 3 16:51:52 2003 From: daveglu at hotmail.com (Dave Glubrecht) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Damage to my '87 5000 Turbo Quattro avant. References: <1e47dd1e7515.1e75151e47dd@icomcast.net> Message-ID: I am in the process of fixing a 90q that appears to have similiar damage to yours from what I can see in the pic's. Mine was hit in the bumper and caused the frame to buckel with the upper inner fender as appears yours. The key to fine a shop willing to work with you. Your attitude and realistic expectations of repairs are crucial. My bodyman claims that german cars are soft and bend back well, but be prepared for some nonfactory contour lines in saved pieces (inner apron, coresupport, etc) Saving pieces that would need to be replaced in order for the repair to be invisible is also a big part. Finding and allowing the use of used parts is also necessary. Often on newer cars you can repair a "total" by allowing the time to locate used parts alone. Remember that if the ins. co. repairs it, they owe you for rental till done. This also sways a borderline total towards a total loss. Dave G ----- Original Message ----- From: "ben swann" To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 9:14 AM Subject: Damage to my '87 5000 Turbo Quattro avant. > Recap - driver in '2001 Camry made left turn directly in front of me > both cars doing ~30mph, both declared totalled AFAIK. > > Picture of the damage to my '87 5000 tqa are at: > http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=1327 > > Id appreciate suggestions towards possibility of repair. The damage > extent is that there is slight paint cracking where strut tower meets > firewall, but no deformation of tower. Passenger front door opens, but > fender binds it ever so slghtly. Windsheild stress cracked through the > qfans sticker a lower left of windsheild. Fender is wasted and support > is deformed. Car was declared totalled, but I have seen a similar > damaged tqa repaired. > > If the car can be put back on the road safely for reasonable cost, it > would be ashamed not to. I'd rather not have to strip it, but need to > make an educated decision. > > Thanks, > > Ben > From l.leung at juno.com Fri Jan 3 21:06:37 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4422 - 4kq vs 5kq rear suspension Message-ID: <20030103.212053.1436.4.l.leung@juno.com> Mike, A Chapman Strut (first used on Colin Chapman's formula cars, hence the name) uses the driven axle as the upper link. The 4KQ (and UrQ) rear suspension, as you say, is simply the front in the back, in other words, it's got MacPherson struts all around. The limitations of MacPherson struts (and Chapman, for that matter) is little ability to compensate for roll camber changes, so as the body rolls (which older Audis do a lot of!) the outside wheels change from negative to positive camber, losing ultimate grip. Perfectly okay for a street car, as it limits the stupid stunts that street drivers would do by limiting the speed at which they go off and making the sliding more progressive and recoverable. It is partially why type 44's have a greater tendency towards understeer, as the rear suspension is more capable of camber change compensation than the MacPherson strut front end. It is possibly, it street guise, why 4KQ's and UrQs have that wonderful balanced feeling. They may not be the ultimate in handling grip, but they sure do feel good! As for Chapman struts, the reason that they worked SO well for Lotus is that they (the cars) didn't roll much, so roll camber change wasn't much of an issue. Also the narrower tires of the day were MUCH less sensitive to camber compared to today's tires. As far as best applications of MacPherson struts, I'd have to admit, BMW seems to do extremely well with them, some of the most capable M-strut cars are from BMW. LL - NY > Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 10:13:31 -0800 > From: Mike Veglia > Subject: Re: 4kq vs 5kq rear suspension > To: quattro@audifans.com > > I'm sure those much more experienced in suspension designs will > chime in, > but, I have never heard the phrase "passive assist articulated rear > wheel > steering" associated with 4kq rear suspension. Where did that come > from? > What does it mean? > > Anyway, the 4kq rear suspension is really the front suspension, > backwards. I > have heard it called a "Chapman Strut" design, but am not 100% sure > it is. I > adore 4kqs (and Ur-Qs of course) and have owned 4 of 'em to date (and > drive > one pretty much all the time now). > > However, the rear quattro suspension design first seen in the type > 44 (5kq) > is a much more complex and, arguably, better design for the larger > chassis > cars. The downside being a lot more bushings to replace when they > wear out > though. For a rather large and heavy cars, the type 44, C4, etc. > quattros > all are exceptional handling cars IMO. > > Mike Veglia > Motor Sport Visions Photography > http://www.motorsportvisions.com > > From JShadzi at aol.com Fri Jan 3 22:23:56 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Ceramic coating aftermath Message-ID: <28.31d886d9.2b47adcc@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Like wise, I'd recommend them, Bruce the owner is a great guy, one of those guys that actually talks your ear off when you call him, and you (the customer) have to end the conversation to get back to your day, usually its the opposite reponse when you call a company! Micro Coat developed the coating for Semi-Tractor turbos and downpipes, which get plenty a work out, I've never had a problem with any of his work. Javad In a message dated 1/3/2003 10:50:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, mswanson@sonitrol.net writes: > you might want to give microcoat a shot.. both myself and Javad have had > good luck with them. I had them do my turbo center bearing section and > hot side.. they still look great with no sign of flaking off. The > coatings are designed to take this kind of heat so my guess is that they > goofed in the application/curing process. > > http://www.sonic.net/~sc7500/ > > no affiliation, just a satisfied customer. > From mdeltergo at hotmail.com Sat Jan 4 03:29:55 2003 From: mdeltergo at hotmail.com (Mike Del Tergo) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 95 S6 vs 91 20V Message-ID: From: "Greg Johnson" <> >I faced this same issue before I purchased my '91 200-20V TQA. At the outset, I must state that I have no prejudices one way or the other; I love the 200 and I love the S6. When I was weighing my options, the price differential between a 200 Avant and an S6 Avant (with about the same miles) was about $15K to $18K In the end, I decided this price differential would allow me to do a bunch of mods that would make the 200 better than a stock S6 Avant and still have money in the bank. Not sure when you bought but that price differential today would mean the 20V 200 would be free! Looking for a 200 Avant (10v or 20V) I've seen quite a few on SCars for the $8-$11K range. The only transaction I've seen is the San Fran example on Ebay for 11+K. I also know that S6 avants with 120K in "nice" shape can be had for ~$16K. Given the low (quotes I've seen vary but 250 is the high) numbers for 200 20V Avants, there sure seem to be alot currently for sale and maybe deals to be had? Mike _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From clerick44 at earthlink.net Fri Jan 3 21:32:33 2003 From: clerick44 at earthlink.net (jesse) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: "passive assist articulated what???" Message-ID: <001701c2b3a1$f246fbc0$eae0020a@ours> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have never heard of "passive assist articulated rear wheel steering". Is this for real? and what is it? -Jesse Erickson -- From JShadzi at aol.com Fri Jan 3 22:33:05 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 5-cylinder turbo bolt-on, Resolved! Message-ID: <33.324d30ff.2b47aff1@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Derek, that will work fine, that's what we did with the ND Turbo kits, the heater core lines worked really well. As far as your project dragging on past the point of being fun, buddy, you need to define your meaning of fun - Comon, after all that work you wouldn't want it to just fire up and run perfectly now would you? - you'd be missing out on all the months of tweeking, re-engineering, fixing, re-attaching, replacing misplaced and burnt wiring and components too close to the newly added inferno generator, etc. Buddy, now that's fun! Then there is the never ending quest for power, that's a whole 'nother realm of fun to be had. Keep us posted on all the "fun" you've got coming up, if you're project is like any of the other's I've done ;) Javad In a message dated 1/3/2003 4:40:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, 4ktq@myrealbox.com writes: > I recieved numerous responses to my turbo water line dilemma. Thanks to > Matt, Javad, Tony, Frederick, Aaron, Geraldo, Jay, and Elliott who wrote to > offer ideas, techniques, parts, and overall encouragement. This project > has > dragged on beyond the point of being fun, I just want it to run and be > finished. It's one step closer today. Now all it needs is a bracket to > secure the oil cooler, hood pins, exhaust connection, and a grill to hide > the intercooler. > > After trying and failing to remove freeze plugs from a junk block I decided > against that plan. There wasn't enough room to drill and tap the water > jacket for a fitting anywhere near the turbo. I ended up splicing a line > into the heater core outlet pipe at the back of the block. The 5kt > automatic donor supplied the T-fitting, originally intended for the > transmission cooler. I cut all but the last inch or so from it, eliminated > the restrictor, and spliced in some aluminum AC tube gutted from my Rabbit. > I knew I was saving that for something! The AC hose bent easily and runs > under the manifold between the wastegate and block, turns downward to > escape > some of the heat, passes under the motor mount, over the oil cooler > thermostat, then splices again into the stock lower water line at the > turbo. > I'll have to keep an eye on the splices and heat but I think they'll be > allright. > > Thanks everyone. > -Derek > '86 4ktq '84 4ktq '84 Gti 2.0 '87 Gti 16v > From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Jan 3 22:38:04 2003 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: What I did over Christmas In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.2.20021231181317.013ded18@mail.charter.net> Message-ID: <001c01c2b3a2$b0ae1df0$6400a8c0@newpc> Bob- That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was driving in heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically in terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 to 1/2 of the original tread? Taka From t44tq at mindspring.com Fri Jan 3 22:44:46 2003 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 20 V TQ questions In-Reply-To: <1c43df1ca14d.1ca14d1c43df@icomcast.net> Message-ID: <001d01c2b3a3$a0e2e260$6400a8c0@newpc> Ben- The 3B engine is much better in terms of engine management systems than the MC. Motronic EFI. Yes, they came w/ UFOs. It's not a PITA if you maintain them properly. Doing the flywheel is really no different from your old car, except for the Procon-Ten cables need to be removed to drop the trans. Taka -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com] On Behalf Of ben swann Sent: Thursday, January 02, 2003 12:07 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Cc: bswann@worldnet.att.net Subject: 20 V TQ questions I am looking at a 200 20V Turbo Quattro Avant as a replacement for the '87 5000 tqa. I'd like to know a little more about the engine and other differences between the MC-1 setup and the one in the 20V T Q. Is it CIS, CIS-E, EFI? Is this the car with the UFO's? Other PITAs? How much of a pain is the timing belt. To pull the motor, or the trans - I will need to replace the flywheel/pin on the 20V, so am trying to see what I am in for. Any other caveats I ned to be aware of. I'm a little hesitant as I am not totally turned onto torsen, and know the MC setup, but nothing about the 20V turbo setup. Don't mind learning though. So TIA for any enlightenment, disuasion or encuragement toward buying the '91 200 20V tqa. Ben From human747 at attbi.com Fri Jan 3 23:54:30 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Rich stop on '86 4 ksq References: <3a7fce3a333b.3a333b3a7fce@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <3E166906.E3D5721E@attbi.com> I'll dig out the doc. references later, I have the Probst book. Attachments get stripped before they hit the list. (since typing that I got the relevant picture, looks like page 28 of Probst) > OXS fluctuates 0.5-0.7 V > > At 3000 rpm is steady 0.8 V it's not working. obviously something is amiss, but you knew that already. since there is no way an OXS can read a steady .8 volts in a closed loop feedback system (it would have to be constantly getting a perfectly slightly lean mixture), the .8 volts is either a bad OXS or a spurious voltage from somewhere. if you disconnect the OXS you can read the .5 volts on the ecu at that point. So. The ecu thinks you are running lean, and it maxes the CPR current. you end up running rich. You might have an air leak in the exhaust prior to the OXS, but I doubt it. i think you have a bad OXS or wiring to it, you cna try this. disconnect the OXS. measure its output, and adjust (if you can) the engine at the static screw from rich to lean - does the OXS output change? Also, you can apply voltage to the ecu input to see if it affects the CPA current. low voltage should get it to increase, to try to lean it out, and vice versa. low voltage would be, say, ground it (0), and high would be around .9-1.0 volts. a half dead remote control cell might work for that. > Does it detect rich condition? > > Is the ECU not able to correct (react) accordingly? > > When I measure the differential pressure regulator current I do not use a > harness but simple set up: > > - a wire between the harness and the regulator > > - The second contacts are connected through multimeter (digital) sounds right, thanks. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From ti at amb.org Fri Jan 3 21:10:53 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: "passive assist articulated what???" In-Reply-To: <001701c2b3a1$f246fbc0$eae0020a@ours> from "jesse" at Jan 03, 2003 09:32:33 PM Message-ID: <200301040510.FAA22191@amb.org> jesse writes: > I have never heard of "passive assist articulated rear wheel steering". Is this for real? and what is it? Sounds like a fancy description of the rear suspension found in some VW/Audi models that has a designed-in toe change during cornering. It's used primarily in some front drive models. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From rizov_d at shaw.ca Sat Jan 4 01:23:16 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: rich stop on '86 4ksq Message-ID: <3dda1c3d63f7.3d63f73dda1c@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] 1. OXS disconnected: -OXS fluctuates 0.5-0.7 V -At 3000 rpm is steady 0.8 V 2. OXS connected: steady 0.01 V , no changes when rev. 3. 1.5 V battery at the OXS wire to the ECU: - diff. Pressure current gets 0.00 V Dobby From ccohen5 at compuserve.com Sat Jan 4 08:30:21 2003 From: ccohen5 at compuserve.com (ccohen5) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Prince Charles Under Fire for Car Deal 'Hypocrisy' Message-ID: <005301c2b3fa$c970e450$6501a8c0@aviallinc.com> ...for buying Audis, but you have probably all see this already. Colin http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story&u=/nm/20021230/od_nm/charles_dc_ 1 From munrof at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 4 09:39:06 2003 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas In-Reply-To: <001c01c2b3a2$b0ae1df0$6400a8c0@newpc> Message-ID: Hi Taka; As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get down to 50% remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and stability in slush and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more like all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time toodling around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my driving is highway. Fred Munro '94 S4 -----Original Message----- From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas Bob- That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was driving in heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically in terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 to 1/2 of the original tread? Taka _______________________________________________ S-CAR-List mailing list S-CAR-List@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sat Jan 4 08:08:34 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior Message-ID: <20030104160834.77303.qmail@web40702.mail.yahoo.com> Subject is an 89 200q, with Bosch 3 bulb (city, low and high) euros. Quad Bosch relays (one for each low and high bulb). Situation is: Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi beam indicator 1/2 bright. Hi Beam- city only on left, low and hi beam on right, hi beam indicator full bright. Flash to pass- same as low beams (low on left, both on right)...except hi beam indicator is full bright. So I'm thinking left high beam is blown? But lights switched off AND key off/out of ignition and BOTH bulbs on right and city only on left but hi beam indicator is now 1/ bright. So, is 30 circuit power leaking through a hosed combi-switch? Load reduction relay? One of the relays at the euros themselves? Or the high bulb on left? I'll investigate more tomorrow (Sat.), but looking for some input. TIA Jim Accordino ps- all connections at relays are tight and watersealed, as are the grounds. Of course I'll look at the grounds/connections again tomorrow. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk Sat Jan 4 16:52:04 2003 From: rob3 at hod3.fsnet.co.uk (rob hod) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Guess who got a digital camera for Xmas Message-ID: <002301c2b411$9cdbf620$42d286d9@robin> Hi Gang, And today I took some photo's and learnt how to get them on the PC, So if anyone's interested theres now a shot of my 88 100 Avant in the regurgitsy. Funnily enough the shot seems to show a very slight shade difference on the rear door that I've never noticed till now, Aaagh must be the onset of frankenpearl! Happy new year all! rob From blur at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 4 11:47:11 2003 From: blur at sympatico.ca (B Vibert) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas References: Message-ID: <3E17100F.A82FF34A@sympatico.ca> I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my Eagle Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two years. This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't get much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they just don't work once they get worn down a bit. Burl Vibert 1987 5kcstq Kingston, Ontario Fred Munro wrote: > > Hi Taka; > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get down to 50% > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and stability in slush > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more like > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time toodling > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my driving is > highway. > > Fred Munro > '94 S4 > > -----Original Message----- > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > Bob- > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was driving in > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically in > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 to > 1/2 of the original tread? > > From nokian at aaahawk.com Sat Jan 4 11:35:27 2003 From: nokian at aaahawk.com (Greg Galinsky) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas References: Message-ID: <3E171B5F.000001.14193@vaio> -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The falloff in function in snow and poor conditions is a result of wearing thru a lot of the sipes on the tread. A lot of tires have sipes that a more for appearance than anything else. On some Blizzak models; 42% of the sipes were only 1 mm deep. Some others tires like the Dunlop D60A2 or 65 were very similar to that. On those Dunlops at about 12 to 15k the good function that you had would disappear. A lot of tires are marketed on looks and not function. More of the Scandinavian tire companies use molds where all the sipes go full depth down to 2/32". Tires there are sold more on function and word of mouth than the marketing machines that say North America has. Here if we see enough ads for a product; sooner or later a lot of people will buy it. When you examine the reults of tire tests and then were to see how that same #1 rated tire did at say half tread depth a lot of people would be surprised My rule of thumb when I tell customers to replace snow tires is at 5 or 6/32" tread depth if you want optimal function and you feel like your life depends on the tires. Greg Galinsky G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Fred Munro Date: Saturday, January 04, 2003 11:16:29 AM To: TM; 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' Subject: RE: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas Hi Taka; As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get down to 50% remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and stability in slush and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more like all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time toodling around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my driving is highway. Fred Munro '94 S4 -----Original Message----- From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas Bob- That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was driving in heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically in terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 to 1/2 of the original tread? Taka _______________________________________________ S-CAR-List mailing list S-CAR-List@audifans.com http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list . -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From JordanVw at aol.com Sat Jan 4 13:10:27 2003 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 q 20V salvage in Texas Message-ID: <144.6db00c8.2b487d93@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 1/3/03 6:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, ScottyCBoy@aol.com writes: > anyone want to buy a > 20V turbo engine minus ECU????? > > Scott > ohh hooo ohhhh you'd better post this to the marketplace or listcop Huw is going to sh*t yellow!! just kidding scotty.. ;<) some people are just TOO serious.. chris From macatawa at hotmail.com Sat Jan 4 20:32:28 2003 From: macatawa at hotmail.com (scott miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Low-pressure hydraulic hose Message-ID: I replaced my high-pressure hydraulic hose to the rack this summer, now the low pressure hose from the reservoir to the pump is leaking. Since it's low-pressure, I'm assuming any thick-walled hose could replace it. My plan is to keep the steel banjo end and tubing. I'll cut off the end that transitions to rubber, and hose clamp a hose from there to the reservoir, where there's already a hose clamp. Still considering what size hose, the reservoir end looks pretty big, 5/8 maybe? Any obvious flaws in this plan? BTDT? Scott Miller Holland, MI '90 200qa _________________________________________________________________ Add photos to your e-mail with MSN 8. Get 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/featuredemail From macatawa at hotmail.com Sat Jan 4 20:43:03 2003 From: macatawa at hotmail.com (scott miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior Message-ID: Are you running stock grounds? I just replaced the grounds on both sides a few weeks ago to clear up some weirdness, much better. When I installed my euros, I bypassed the combi-switch with relays under dash for hi & lo, very simple task, no other mods. I've run 80/100W and 100W bulbs for five years this way, replaced one once. Scott Miller Holland, MI '90 200qa _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From crankshaft at adelphia.net Sat Jan 4 13:01:01 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 q 20V salvage in Texas References: <144.6db00c8.2b487d93@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E174B8D.4010302@adelphia.net> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] What? no marketplace Gestapo? Come on lets hear some snide comments .........anyone? JordanVw@aol.com wrote: >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >In a message dated 1/3/03 6:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, >ScottyCBoy@aol.com writes: > > > > >> anyone want to buy a >>20V turbo engine minus ECU????? >> >>Scott >> >> >> > >ohh hooo ohhhh you'd better post this to the marketplace or listcop Huw >is going to sh*t yellow!! > >just kidding scotty.. ;<) some people are just TOO serious.. > >chris > > > -- From lrickert at covad.net Sat Jan 4 14:22:50 2003 From: lrickert at covad.net (lrickert@covad.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: center reflector leak/removal 4kq Message-ID: Hi folks I am trying to win an on going battle with trunk leaks in my 87 4kq. After a good rain water pours out of the right side of trunk lid reflectors/light unit when I open the trunk. The light socket is supposed to be in there has been missing since I got the car. here is a picture: http://home.covad.net/~rickert/insideview.jpg some monkey appears to have tried very hard to close the trunk when something was in the way http://home.covad.net/~rickert/damage.jpg anyway the questions are: 1. how can water get into the reflector thing? b. how do I get the reflector panel off the car? is it simply a matter of removing the screws under the license plate and cutting the old putty away from under the outer light unit? I can?t find any mention of removing the center panel in Bentley. speaking of removing the license plate, two of the four bolts that hold it on no longer have anything to attach to. (they rusted on at some point and the nuts attached to the plastic were ripped out) any suggestions for a good way to fix this? I will be replacing the steel with stainless hardware one way or anther. thanks Luke From dave at expertfriend.com Sat Jan 4 17:32:20 2003 From: dave at expertfriend.com (Dave Arkle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Wheel sizes Message-ID: <00df01c2b441$24ff9a00$9701a8c0@MINIME> Hi all; Where can I go to find out what wheels will fit my soon-to-be 5K or 200? I see ads for wheels that seem to be contradictory. For examlple, there are a few auctions on eBay that have wheels from an A8, and the auction specifically lists that they fit on the 200 (there is a chart of 'what fits' and it's a big wheel retailer, not an individual). Then there are other auctions that have A8 wheels, but the Type 44 is conspicuously absent from the list. What I'm looking for is a set of 16" wheels, so maybe someone could offer up their experiences? I like the idea of finding OEM Audi wheels from a different model (like A8 maybe) but I can't seem to find conclusively which ones will fit. Thanks! Dave Arkle DoD #11011 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for an Audi TQ... From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Sat Jan 4 23:42:04 2003 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Type 44 engine in type 89 Message-ID: Do I need to swap the exhaust manifold and oil pan when I want to use a 5-cylinder engine from a type 44 in a type 89? -- E. Spangen '86 Audi 100 2.2 CS quattro From haydn_taylor at hotmail.com Sat Jan 4 18:28:22 2003 From: haydn_taylor at hotmail.com (haydn taylor) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Wheel sizes References: <00df01c2b441$24ff9a00$9701a8c0@MINIME> Message-ID: Hi Dave You need to look for wheels that have an ET45 offset, I think the A8 wheels are not youre best bet as the offsets are wrong. look on EBAY for rims from newer A4's and A6's . on 5KTQ's you cant go much above 215's without doing some body mods. Check out http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/susp.html#wwheel this is a great site and should tell you what you need to know. Haydn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Arkle" To: Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 5:32 PM Subject: Wheel sizes > Hi all; > > Where can I go to find out what wheels will fit my soon-to-be 5K or 200? I > see ads for wheels that seem to be contradictory. For examlple, there are a > few auctions on eBay that have wheels from an A8, and the auction > specifically lists that they fit on the 200 (there is a chart of 'what fits' > and it's a big wheel retailer, not an individual). Then there are other > auctions that have A8 wheels, but the Type 44 is conspicuously absent from > the list. > > What I'm looking for is a set of 16" wheels, so maybe someone could offer up > their experiences? I like the idea of finding OEM Audi wheels from a > different model (like A8 maybe) but I can't seem to find conclusively which > ones will fit. > > Thanks! > > Dave Arkle > DoD #11011 > 96 Daytona 1200 > 84 V65 Sabre > 67 Buick LeSabre > On the hunt for an Audi TQ... > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.434 / Virus Database: 243 - Release Date: 12/26/2002 From niederst at pghmail.com Sat Jan 4 18:09:39 2003 From: niederst at pghmail.com (Craig D. Niederst) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) Message-ID: <000a01c2b446$66467880$2702a8c0@craigslaptop> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] My brother managed to blow both of the CV joints out of the '86 CGT, so I'm looking to buy a pair of remanufactured half shafts. I checked locally at the AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts places, and they both run ~$80 per side plus a $45 core charge (with a lifetime guarantee). When looking up the parts, the computer asks before or after chassis # 81D077974= (which according to them is on the center of the firewall). Unfortunately,= that number corresponds to nothing that I can see on the CGT. The last 9 c= haracters of my VIN are 4GA141877, which looks nothing like the chassis # t= hey list. So do I basically buy the one with the later chassis # range? Als= o, they are out of stock of the driver side shaft. Are there other sources = of these shafts online that are reasonable (Blau @ $220 a side is not reaso= nable IMHO). TIA. Craig '92 100S (101k) '86 CGT (221k) -- From kentmclean at mindspring.com Sat Jan 4 18:11:56 2003 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior Message-ID: james accordino wrote: >Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi >beam indicator 1/2 bright. I recall that it's possible to mix the ground wires on the headlights (don't know exactly how; that's why we have some EEs on the list). The result is that when one low-beam light burns out, electricity can feed back through ground to the high beam, causing it to glow at less than 100%. Or something like that. I'm hoping this will jog someone with a better memory and more knowledge than me. Kent '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" From ti at amb.org Sat Jan 4 15:35:02 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) In-Reply-To: <000a01c2b446$66467880$2702a8c0@craigslaptop> from "Craig D. Niederst" at Jan 04, 2003 06:09:39 PM Message-ID: <200301042335.XAA24137@amb.org> Craig D. Niederst writes: > My brother managed to blow both of the CV joints out of the '86 CGT, so > I'm looking to buy a pair of remanufactured half shafts. I checked > locally at the AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts places, and they both run > ~$80 per side plus a $45 core charge (with a lifetime guarantee). When > looking up the parts, the computer asks before or after chassis # 81D077974= > (which according to them is on the center of the firewall). Unfortunately,= > that number corresponds to nothing that I can see on the CGT. The last 9 c= > haracters of my VIN are 4GA141877, which looks nothing like the chassis # t= > hey list. So do I basically buy the one with the later chassis # range? Als= > o, they are out of stock of the driver side shaft. Are there other sources = > of these shafts online that are reasonable (Blau @ $220 a side is not reaso= > nable IMHO). TIA. Looks like they were looking at parts for an early type 81 (4000 sedan with four cylinder), not for a late-ish 5-cyl Coupe. For example, my '80 4000 4-cyl has the old style VIN of 81A0003561. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From lindgre at online.no Sun Jan 5 01:16:36 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) References: <000a01c2b446$66467880$2702a8c0@craigslaptop> Message-ID: <3E177964.4050604@online.no> Craig D. Niederst wrote: >looking up the parts, the computer asks before or after chassis # 81D077974 (which according to them is on the center of the firewall). Unfortunately, that number corresponds to nothing that I can see on the CGT. The last 9 characters of my VIN are 4GA141877, which looks nothing like the chassis # they list. So do I basically buy the one with the later chassis # range? Also, they are out of stock of the driver side shaft. Are there other sources of these shafts online that are reasonable (Blau @ $220 a side is not reasonable IMHO). TIA. > Not to be rude, but it's because you dont know how to read these numbers! If you open up the menu bar, choose the V-pages and read throught them. Basically, what they designate her is 81-D-077974, which is type 81, model year D, serial number 077974. PerL 87 Cq (85-H-012141) From dans at audifans.com Sat Jan 4 19:44:06 2003 From: dans at audifans.com (dans) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Listed here, please let me know at Message-ID: <200301050044.h050i6B51977@logs-mtc-td.proxy.aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on www.audifans.com) Found virus WORM_KLEZ.H in file HREF.pif The file is deleted. --------------------------------------------------------- From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Sat Jan 4 19:47:20 2003 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Well I've got a delima..... What to do with the 1991 200Q... Here's what I do know.... I bought the car for a song from a local salvage auction... Flood damage water up to base of radio housing. Engine untouched there was still oil collected in the accordian boot and intercooler. What it needs: ECU $$$ Very Pricey ABS unit Airbag control units A/C head... Just about every control unit below the trans tunnel... I've got most everything covered with the exception of the ECU, my two 1991 200 parts cars are going to come in really handy!!! I'm going to have to buy an ECU at a cost of 900 bucks from the dealer. I've been unable to find a used one for less.. I guess my question is what to do with the beast... I've been looking at used prices and they range from 4500 all the way to 24, 500 (which is a joke). So I got to thinking if I gave myself a budget of 3K including the price of the car I could have a real screamer... Or do I part it and take the money I made and purchase a running example?? The interior stinks but is probably a 7 out of ten on looks. The body is a 9 out of 10. It was sold by a local dealer and it's first owner was really anal about service he owned it for about 7 years.. It's only been abused by the last two owners (3-4 years ago). If I fix it I have no intention of selling it anytime soon and I realise that since it's going to have a reconstructed title it will be worth less than other examples with a clean title. So I guess I'm wondering if anyone has an opinion on the matter. What I'm considering doing is since that I need an ECU I'll purchase a RS2 unit and go from there with other RS2 parts, but I'm unsure if the RS2 had a distributor... What I've read is that the RS2 was a version of the AAN engine which has coils for each cylinder. Any Suggestions, comments, or insults are appreciated...... Scott From DieMarthaDie at aol.com Sat Jan 4 19:48:01 2003 From: DieMarthaDie at aol.com (DieMarthaDie@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Wheel sizes Message-ID: <64AB4D84.0F827655.1128B6C9@aol.com> Just a thought, but has anyone compiled a cross-mounting options list for the various models? ie. 1990 V8Q can mount 1998 A4 Sport rims or such? It would be very helpful to a lot of folks (me included) if someone had that kind of list around. Kind of shortcutting the whole Plus Size issue, if you can just scan the chart... know what I mean? Just checkin' John 83CGT 90V8Q > Hi Dave > > You need to look for wheels that have an ET45 offset, I think the A8 wheels > are not youre best bet as the offsets are wrong. look on EBAY for rims from > newer A4's and A6's . on 5KTQ's you cant go much above > 215's without doing > some body mods. > > Check out > > http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/susp.html#wwheel From sjensen at mindspring.com Sat Jan 4 20:11:08 2003 From: sjensen at mindspring.com (Steve Jensen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima References: Message-ID: <003f01c2b457$55c196a0$588156d1@oemcomputer> > I'm going to have to buy an ECU at a cost of 900 bucks from the dealer. I've > been unable to find a used one for less.. Before you go to the dealer, try these guys, you may be able to get a used unit thru them but you'll need to specify its a North American car. Not sure if there's any difference between the German version and the NA version but it doesn't hurt to be cautious: http://www.wotan-ag.de/ Also Alexander Van Gerbig has an import thing going but I'm not sure of the URL, I'm sure somebody can pipe in... -Steve Jensen 87 5kcstq From knotnook at traverse.com Sat Jan 4 20:24:19 2003 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030104202131.0244ba50@traverse.com> At 07:47 PM 01/04/2003 -0500, ScottyCBoy@aol.com wrote: >-- > > >What I'm considering doing is since that I need an ECU I'll purchase a RS2 >unit and go from there with other RS2 parts, but I'm unsure if the RS2 had a >distributor... What I've read is that the RS2 was a version of the AAN engine >which has coils for each cylinder. I seem to recall repeated postings to the effect that trying to convert a 3B to AAN is pretty pricey and complicated, but maybe a big part of that was the fact the ECU would need updating????? From brett at cloud9.net Sat Jan 4 20:34:03 2003 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 7:47 PM -0500 1/4/03, ScottyCBoy@aol.com wrote: >I'm going to have to buy an ECU at a cost of 900 bucks from the dealer. I've >been unable to find a used one for less.. you know for a fact the dealer can even get one? >I guess my question is what to do with the beast... I've been looking at used >prices and they range from 4500 all the way to 24, 500 (which is a joke) Correct. I don't know who would be asking $24.5k. It used to be years ago the wagons would go for 15k. Even an S6 wagons aren't worth $24k- 60k examples have a book value of around 16k, supposedly. >The interior stinks but is probably a 7 out >of ten on looks The interior needs to be professionally cleaned and disinfected- the stink is mold+mildew, and it's not good for you. >What I'm considering doing is since that I need an ECU I'll purchase a RS2 >unit and go from there with other RS2 parts, but I'm unsure if the RS2 had a >distributor... What I've read is that the RS2 was a version of the AAN engine >which has coils for each cylinder. Correct. The two are not compatible without modification to wiring harness and more. It is far easier to put RS2-like maps(along with injectors, MAF, manifold, turbo) into the 3B ecu. Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From DieMarthaDie at aol.com Sat Jan 4 20:37:06 2003 From: DieMarthaDie at aol.com (DieMarthaDie@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Wheel sizes (and ATS rims) Message-ID: <264EB37B.11EE5749.1128B6C9@aol.com> In a message dated 1/4/2003 7:48:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, DieMarthaDie writes: > Just a thought, but has anyone compiled a cross-mounting options list for the various models? ie. 1990 V8Q can mount 1998 A4 Sport rims or such? It would be very helpful to a lot of folks (me included) if someone had that kind of list around. Kind of shortcutting the whole Plus Size issue, if you > can just scan the chart... know what I mean? > > Just checkin' To follow up on this... would an ATS DTM 2000 Rim fit my 1990 V8Q with a 17 X 7.5 size 5-112 pattern 38FB offset? Or would I need spacers? The car was converted to G60s before I got it so UFO issues are not a problem. Along those lines - anyone had any experience with these and their durability, quality, etc...? Thanks, John 83CGT 90V8Q From tronalex at lek.net Thu Jan 2 23:27:08 2003 From: tronalex at lek.net (tronalex) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Recall: Re: anyone want a '90 200TQ???? Message-ID: <01C2B434.560D3380.tronalex@lek.net> tronalex would like to recall the message, "Re: anyone want a '90 200TQ????". From pizzoman at yahoo.com Sat Jan 4 18:40:29 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima In-Reply-To: <003f01c2b457$55c196a0$588156d1@oemcomputer> Message-ID: <20030105024029.55895.qmail@web20805.mail.yahoo.com> http://www.euro-audi-parts.com --- Steve Jensen wrote: > > I'm going to have to buy an ECU at a cost of 900 > bucks from the dealer. > I've > > been unable to find a used one for less.. > > Before you go to the dealer, try these guys, you may > be able to get a used > unit thru them but you'll need to specify its a > North American car. Not > sure if there's any difference between the German > version and the NA version > but it doesn't hurt to be cautious: > > http://www.wotan-ag.de/ > > Also Alexander Van Gerbig has an import thing going > but I'm not sure of the > URL, I'm sure somebody can pipe in... > > -Steve Jensen > 87 5kcstq > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu Sat Jan 4 22:16:30 2003 From: conner at cfm.Ohio-State.edu (Dave C) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) Message-ID: <3.0.1.32.20030104221630.0126b108@mail.cfm.ohio-state.edu> Craig wrote... "I'm looking to buy a pair of remanufactured half shafts. I checked Are there other sources of these shafts online that are reasonable" Craig, Jorgen, our friendly supplier of rebuilt steering rack, also deals in rebuilt half shafts. http://www.jorgenauto.com/ I haven't bought rebuilt half shafts from them so can't comment on pricing, etc. Dave C. From Stpndsmnn at aol.com Sat Jan 4 22:17:59 2003 From: Stpndsmnn at aol.com (Stpndsmnn@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: LF: Silver (Zermatt SIlver?) CGT or 4k hood in good shape.. Message-ID: <86.243550c4.2b48fde7@aol.com> This evening my hood and the roof made contact through some unfortunate absent-mindedness on my part. I am now in search of a replacement hood, I am sure I could get a straight hood at the local junkyard but it would really be great if I could find one that I didn't need to paint. If you have or know of someone that might have a silver (Zermatt silver?? it's a 1983 kind of goldy silver) hood they want to get rid of please let me know. I live in Portland, OR Thanks Matt Kramer '83 CGTt From rdeis at io.com Sat Jan 4 22:03:59 2003 From: rdeis at io.com (Robert Deis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Bad short! Argh ! Message-ID: Here's what I know: 1> Car was *fine* last Sunday. I parked it with no sign of trouble until today- though it has snowed since then. 2> Went to start it today, no juice. 3> Jumped it and it started, but when I shut it off battery drained to zero in seconds, even with the key off. 4> While driving, the ABS light flashes in a regular rythm if and only if the car is moving. Panel lights dim and radio has a popping noise at the same rythm. Frequency is constant regardless of RPM or speed, so long as speed is non-zero. 5> Turn the ABS off, and the popping and flashing go away, but the short doesn't. 6> Removed ABS controller and fuse #12, short is still there. Last time I had a big short it was the alternator, which was replaced in September. Any ideas? If not I'll start pulling fuses... Bleah.. If it *is* the alternator, this will be the third one this year- what's could be eating them up? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Sat Jan 4 23:05:14 2003 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: European ETKA??? Message-ID: <131.18e2421f.2b4908fa@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Does anybody know where I can download or obtain a european version of the ETKA????? Thanks bunches... Scott From bandybrew1 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 4 21:36:03 2003 From: bandybrew1 at yahoo.com (JOHN BANDY) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: CIS-E III problem, idle only no rev Message-ID: <20030105053603.80801.qmail@web20418.mail.yahoo.com> Hey Everybody, Well I put the 15" of snow we recieved in northern VT to good use, first having a blast with the 90Q on all the unplowed roads I could find and , second carving up the powder on the slopes. But now the '89 90Q don't wanna run right. On my way to work tonight, just crusing along, the motor lost all power like I ran out of gas. At first I thought the fuel pump which has been buzzing loudly for years finally died. So I pulled over, to find motor idling, FP buzzing as normal. Step on the gas and when the rpm's get to 1200 it cuts out. But idles perfect, so I limp to work, 3rd gear 1000rpm 20mph, it was only a half mile at that point. Get to work pop the hood and start checking connections. The first one I check is the control pressure actuator, I unplug it, open the throttle and problem is gone, plug it back in and problem returns. I unplug it and go for a quick drive and all is normal, idles ok, power is good. So my question is is this thing toast or is it getting a bad signal? If it's a bad signal what controls it? And how long can I drive with it unplugged. Thanks for all the help, John '89 90Q - daily his '88 80Q - daily hers '87 Scirocco 16v - autocrosser/hillclimber '88 5KS - for sale, see the marketplace add ===== BEER It is the drink of men who think And feel no fear nor fetter-Who do not drink to senseless sink, But drink to think the better. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From doublem at srv.net Sat Jan 4 22:25:11 2003 From: doublem at srv.net (James Bell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) References: <000a01c2b446$66467880$2702a8c0@craigslaptop> Message-ID: <003601c2b47e$10323500$a6ca1341@hppav> Craig: There is a difference between Auto-Z shafts and Blau units. The re-man cheepys are generally not hardened after regrinding. You get what you pay for. For cost savings go with good used OEM ones. J.B. in ID. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig D. Niederst" To: "Quattro List" Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 4:09 PM Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] My brother managed to blow both of the CV joints out of the '86 CGT, so I'm looking to buy a pair of remanufactured half shafts. I checked locally at the AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts places, and they both run ~$80 per side plus a $45 core charge (with a lifetime guarantee). When looking up the parts, the computer asks before or after chassis # 81D077974 (which according to them is on the center of the firewall). Unfortunately, that number corresponds to nothing that I can see on the CGT. The last 9 characters of my VIN are 4GA141877, which looks nothing like the chassis # they list. So do I basically buy the one with the later chassis # range? Also, they are out of stock of the driver side shaft. Are there other sources of these shafts online that are reasonable (Blau @ $220 a side is not reasonable IMHO). TIA. Craig '92 100S (101k) '86 CGT (221k) -- From doublem at srv.net Sat Jan 4 22:49:04 2003 From: doublem at srv.net (James Bell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 200 Q delima References: Message-ID: <004301c2b47e$8d949880$a6ca1341@hppav> Scotty: You bought it for a song, for a reason! You will not know what the water got into until 5000 Miles down the road. The percentages that your up against are, high, not very good long term. If you value your time and patience for anything... Sell it for parts! and RUN! BTDT. 90% chance that the chassis parts are full of water and dirt. Wheel bearings, tie rods, Sub frame mounts, and C/V'S. Don't get emotionally involved with Flooded cars. They will burn you. J.B. in ID. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 5:47 PM Subject: 200 Q delima > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > Well I've got a delima..... > > What to do with the 1991 200Q... > > Here's what I do know.... > > I bought the car for a song from a local salvage auction... > Flood damage water up to base of radio housing. Engine untouched there was > still oil collected in the accordian boot and intercooler. What it needs: > > ECU $$$ Very Pricey > ABS unit > Airbag control units > A/C head... > > Just about every control unit below the trans tunnel... > > I've got most everything covered with the exception of the ECU, my two 1991 > 200 parts cars are going to come in really handy!!! > > I'm going to have to buy an ECU at a cost of 900 bucks from the dealer. I've > been unable to find a used one for less.. > > I guess my question is what to do with the beast... I've been looking at used > prices and they range from 4500 all the way to 24, 500 (which is a joke). So > I got to thinking if I gave myself a budget of 3K including the price of the > car I could have a real screamer... Or do I part it and take the money I made > and purchase a running example?? The interior stinks but is probably a 7 out > of ten on looks. The body is a 9 out of 10. It was sold by a local dealer and > it's first owner was really anal about service he owned it for about 7 > years.. It's only been abused by the last two owners (3-4 years ago). If I > fix it I have no intention of selling it anytime soon and I realise that > since it's going to have a reconstructed title it will be worth less than > other examples with a clean title. So I guess I'm wondering if anyone has an > opinion on the matter. > > What I'm considering doing is since that I need an ECU I'll purchase a RS2 > unit and go from there with other RS2 parts, but I'm unsure if the RS2 had a > distributor... What I've read is that the RS2 was a version of the AAN engine > which has coils for each cylinder. > > Any Suggestions, comments, or insults are appreciated...... > > Scott From human747 at attbi.com Sun Jan 5 01:18:55 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: CIS-E III problem, idle only no rev References: <20030105053603.80801.qmail@web20418.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3E17CE4F.97E7E989@attbi.com> > But now the '89 90Q don't wanna run right. On my way to work > tonight, just crusing along, the motor lost all power like I ran out of > gas. At first I thought the fuel pump which has been buzzing loudly for > years finally died. So I pulled over, to find motor idling, FP buzzing > as normal. Step on the gas and when the rpm's get to 1200 it cuts out. I would venture to guess that your idle switch is bad, and shorted constantly. CIS kills the fuel above 1200-1500 or so rpms when the idle switch is closed - since it means you took your foot off the gas. > The first one I check is the control pressure > actuator, I unplug it, open the throttle and problem is gone, plug it > back in and problem returns. when you unplug the CPR, at warm idle, since its "rest" current is 0 mA, nothing changes. But now you have removed the computer's way of killing the fuel. Try unplugging the idle/wot switch connector and seeing if, other than probably a high idle, it works properly. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From bjturlington at hotmail.com Sat Jan 4 21:02:57 2003 From: bjturlington at hotmail.com (B. Turlington) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I'm moving soon, and so need to sell the following vehicles: 1986 Audi 5000s Avant....It needs a wheel bearing and driver side fron cornerning lamp. Body's in good shape. Auto tranny, headliner sags, but otherwise decent $400, obo 1985 VW Quantum Synchro - good parts car or restorable, good mechanically, but ugly body....$400, obo 1985 VW Vanagon, Cracked head, some body damage, interior good - $100 obo anyhoo, my number is 360.274.8435, gimme a call or email me your interested... thanx... Robert ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Help STOP SPAM: Try the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE*[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMUEN/2023 From billzcat1 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 00:59:52 2003 From: billzcat1 at hotmail.com (Richard Hoffman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Brake System troubles, 1990 CQ Message-ID: Hello all, I have been noticing some odd behavior of the brake light (in the dash) on my 90 CQ. Symptoms: *Light lights up upon cold start-up and stays lit for approximately one minute. Once the light goes out, the brakes can be pumped vigorously without it coming on. *During moderately spirited driving, it will light up, then extinguish itself. It seems to be related to rear suspension travel, as if compressing the suspension causes the light to come on. *Situation occurs with ABS on and off. Known: *Bomb was replaced one year ago with a NEW (not recharged) OEM unit. *Brake pads are at about 50% *Front rotors replaced one year ago *Rear rotors show a little wear *Fluid is ATE DOT4, fresh from one year ago *ABS system is hyperactive. Likes to engage randomly at parking lot speeds. This symptom has persisted for the last 3 years, I have not had it diagnosed. I believe this problem to be unrelated, as it matters not whether the ABS is on or off. Also ABS operates normally under lock-up conditions - rain, snow, etc. *Rear suspension clunks a little. Needs bushings and mounts, etc. Looking for some help on this one before the car goes into the shop. The only thing I plan on having them do is the diagnosis, unless it is absolutely necessary (ie: work on the ABS system, which scares me) Thanks a ton! Richard 1990 CQ 213K 1970 100LS 46K _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 07:16:21 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: VIN vs. chassis # (and blown CV joints) In-Reply-To: <3.0.1.32.20030104221630.0126b108@mail.cfm.ohio-state.edu> Message-ID: <20030105151621.98661.qmail@web40709.mail.yahoo.com> Also, others posted about a Raxles.com. I looked at the site and they use NEW Lobro joints and the nice "real" rubber boots. Jim Accordino --- Dave C wrote: > Craig wrote... > "I'm looking to buy a pair of remanufactured half > shafts. I checked > Are there other sources of these shafts online that > are reasonable" > > Craig, > Jorgen, our friendly supplier of rebuilt steering > rack, also deals in > rebuilt half shafts. > http://www.jorgenauto.com/ > I haven't bought rebuilt half shafts from them so > can't comment on pricing, > etc. > Dave C. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 07:23:32 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030105152332.61560.qmail@web40707.mail.yahoo.com> No, I made new heavy gauge grounds for each side. Both high and low relays on each side share a ground on their side. Jim Accordino ps-that's GREAT bulb life for higher wattage units BTW --- scott miller wrote: > Are you running stock grounds? I just replaced the > grounds on both sides a > few weeks ago to clear up some weirdness, much > better. When I installed my > euros, I bypassed the combi-switch with relays under > dash for hi & lo, very > simple task, no other mods. I've run 80/100W and > 100W bulbs for five years > this way, replaced one once. > > Scott Miller > Holland, MI > '90 200qa > > _________________________________________________________________ > STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months > FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 07:26:25 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030105152625.19573.qmail@web40706.mail.yahoo.com> Both low beams work. The high on the left is out. I'm still trying to determine where the power is coming from when the key is off/out. I really think now it's either a bad relay or the combi switch. Jim Accordino --- Kent McLean wrote: > james accordino wrote: > >Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi > >beam indicator 1/2 bright. > > I recall that it's possible to mix the ground wires > on > the headlights (don't know exactly how; that's why > we have some EEs on the list). The result is that > when one low-beam light burns out, electricity can > feed back through ground to the high beam, causing > it to glow at less than 100%. > > Or something like that. I'm hoping this will jog > someone > with a better memory and more knowledge than me. > > Kent > '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" > > > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Jan 5 11:36:44 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season Message-ID: <41.291edd9c.2b49b91c@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I heard from a friend of mine yesterday who works for the Champion S4 team that they will be racing RS6's next year, they're developing and building the cars right now, with motor development in conjunction with Cosworth. Pretty exciting stuff, next season should be even more competitive than this years. Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a 6-speed here in the states, well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) Javad From Jpinkowish at aol.com Sun Jan 5 12:18:43 2003 From: Jpinkowish at aol.com (Jpinkowish@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: 4kq trunk center reflector removal / leak repair Message-ID: <17c.14ae42fb.2b49c2f3@aol.com> In a message dated 1/4/03 8:40:36 PM EST, lrickert@covad.net writes: > After a good rain water pours out of the right side of trunk lid reflectors/light unit > when I open the trunk. The light socket is supposed to be in there has been > missing since I got the car. > > anyway the questions are: > > 1) how can water get into the reflector thing? Hi Luke, I occasionally get the water drip thing too. Only for me, the h2o comes out of the stamped metal piece on the inside of the lower trunk lip that is just below the center section light unit. Even though I installed new automotive caulking around the center section and lights, water prolly gets in through capillary action somewhere. You can also check around the bolts that hold the spoiler to the trunk lid. Look more closely next time you open the trunk after a rain. If the plastic reflector/light isn't cracked, water shouldn't be getting into it. > 2) how do I get the reflector panel off the car? is it simply a matter of > removing the screws under the license plate and cutting the old putty away from > under the outer light unit? Remove the screws that are behind the license plate and also the 2 nuts on the backsides of the L/R light sections. Use a 1-2" putty knife to gently separate the lights from the trunk lid. Remove the schmutzy caulking and replace with new. I used glass setting butyl tape from a NAPA store. Part #4195, 5/16" diameter. It's really more like a rope. Now that you have the center section off, you may discover rust spots. Good time to repair. > 3) speaking of removing the license plate, two of the four bolts that hold it on no > longer have anything to attach to. (they rusted on at some point and the nuts > attached to the plastic were ripped out) any suggestions for a good way to fix > this? I will be replacing the steel with stainless hardware one way or another. Forget stainless; black plastic is the way to go. You can buy kits at any FLAPS. My suggestion for fastening the new nuts in the kit to the center section is to use GOOP adhesive(not the hand cleaner and not the shoe repair stuff) that is available at all Sears Hardware stores and prolly Lowes/Home Depot. A little antiseize on the plastic screws and you're all set. BTDT for 2 yrs with no problems. HTH Jan Pinkowish '85 4ksq Bristol, CT From JordanVw at aol.com Sun Jan 5 12:43:20 2003 From: JordanVw at aol.com (JordanVw@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS Message-ID: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] In a message dated 1/5/03 2:10:55 AM Eastern Standard Time, bjturlington@hotmail.com writes: > > 1986 Audi 5000s Avant....It needs a wheel bearing and driver side fron > cornerning lamp. Body's in good shape. Auto tranny, headliner sags, but > otherwise decent $400, obo > > 1985 VW Quantum Synchro - good parts car or restorable, good mechanically, > but > ugly body....$400, obo > > 1985 VW Vanagon, Cracked head, some body damage, interior good - $100 obo > > anyhoo, my number is 360.274.8435, gimme a call or email me your > interested... > > thanx... > > Robert > > watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS to the list... just a fyi From lindgre at online.no Sun Jan 5 18:47:58 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Installed headlight relays today Message-ID: <3E186FCE.4050109@online.no> Hey all! I installed a headlight relay kit today, and I must say that that was really an improvement. As we know, the headlight switch on the 4k/CGT isn't the best switch around. Together with no relays in the headlight system makes it a real bottleneck in providing juice to the lights. At idle, lows on, I had 13.8V at the battery and only 11.6 at the headlights! Off to the FLAPS, and get this nice kit, similar to this: http://209.87.151.155/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=HH-H4 ( http://www.autodynamic.com ). This kit was a nice kit, pretty much plug and play, and it only cost $23 here. It took me about an hour to install it, and the improvement was big! After the installation I still ahd 13.8 at the battery, and 13.6 at the lights. An improvement of 2 volts! The only thing that wasn't that good was that the H1 highs (dual lights) didn't benefit of this relay upgrade, so they still get their juice through the headlight switch. OTOH I do not have the highs on that much, so it'll pass for now. So what's the bottom line? If you do not have relays on your lights, check your voltage and install them if needed. They're worth it! PerL 87 Cq From macatawa at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 18:33:10 2003 From: macatawa at hotmail.com (scott miller) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior Message-ID: >No, I made new heavy gauge grounds for each side. >Both high and low relays on each side share a ground >on their side. So the brown wire coming out of each bulb also goes to your new grounds? Also, if you can, check the connections inside the bulb, that thin, brown wire connects to all three bulbs. Your dilema is what I feared with adding relays and complication. I'm not sure if you can back-feed power through your hi-beams and relays because of a bad ground, depends on what kind of relays were used. Water in components or wiring could provide a backward path to ground. >ps-that's GREAT bulb life for higher wattage units BTW My brother has run big bulbs in euros on his 4kcsq for over ten years with few new bulbs. No relays. My Mitsu used to gobble them. Scott _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From auditude at cox.net Sun Jan 5 11:54:28 2003 From: auditude at cox.net (auditude@cox.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS Message-ID: <3E181CF4.5986.51ACEE@localhost> I think I am more on Huw's side on this one. Since there is a marketplace, it should be used. I personally don't mind if someone puts it on the marketplace, and then mentions it on the list that it is there. But I think it's wrong for it to be posted "only" on the list, and not even in the marketplace. I think the marketplace is a great thing, and I encourage it to be used. I remember a time when we didn't have it, and we didn't have a registry. These are good resources, that will grow if they are used. I don't think we have been able to put together a lasting and workable FAQ or knowledgebase (am I wrong on this one?), and a large part of that is probably a lack of support and interest from the list members. I don't want this type of thing to happen to the marketplace. As it has been posted many times, people can sub to the marketplace mailing list if they want to be let known immediately of new ad/adds. Perhaps if they don't want to know of them, like if they don't want to be tempted, then they might intentionally "not" sub to it. I don't think Huw should be singled out for mentioning it. He just happened to speak up on it. It's a bit of the on-topic, off-topic thing. I don't see people posting a bunch of ur-q stuff on the v8 list, or vice-versa. That's because there are lists for that stuff, and people follow the idea. It's important to know that it is not because I don't want to know about new offerings, I'm often interested in the stuff Chris posts, as a matter of fact. I have however noticed that the many times in the past someone has asked that ads be placed in the marketplace, it has been ignored by some. It's not unthinkable that the marketplace might charge everyone to place ads. In that situation, posting stuff to the main list instead of on the marketplace might be cause for getting unsubbed or something bad like that. I am subbed to the marketplace list, and yet I have nomail turned on for the main list, and read the archives online. So, in my case, posting it to the list and not the marketplace will make it less likely to see it. And I'm always buying other people's crap. Peace and harmony and good commerce... Later, Ken JordanVw@aol.com JordanVw@aol.com wrote: > > bjturlington@hotmail.com writes: > > > > 1986 Audi 5000s Avant....It needs a wheel bearing and driver side fron > > cornerning lamp. Body's in good shape. Auto tranny, headliner sags, but > > otherwise decent $400, obo > > > > 1985 VW Quantum Synchro - good parts car or restorable, good mechanically, > > but ugly body....$400, obo > > > > 1985 VW Vanagon, Cracked head, some body damage, interior good - $100 obo > > > > anyhoo, my number is 360.274.8435, gimme a call or email me your > > interested... > > > > thanx... > > > > Robert > > watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS to the > list... > just a fyi From rizov_d at shaw.ca Sun Jan 5 12:04:50 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: ECU or OXS ? Message-ID: <419791420624.420624419791@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hello Everybody, I?m looking for help with clarification the work of OXS. My car is ?86 4000 sq end the problem firs appeared when I measured the differential pressure regulator current ? it is steady at 17.7 mA. Testing the OXS showed weird results that do not go along with manual?s directions: When measure disconnected (open loop ) OXS: Steady readings from 0.00 V to 0.7 V Readings are changed when adjusting CO. Readings are not changed when accelerate. Connected (closed loop) OXS: Steady from 0.01 V to 0.23 V Reading are changed when adjusting CO (Measurement is done at the clip between OXS wire and green ECU probe wire.) Closed loop with readings taken at green OXS probe: Steady 0.01V and cannot be changed with CO adjustment. ECU changes differential pressure current when voltage (+) small battery) is applied at the green wire ( OXS ) - to 0.00 V. Tests at the connector side of the ECU went o.k.- there is a power and no short or disconnected green OXS wire ( Bentley points short in OXS probe wire as cause for readings of 10 mA above normal) In both open loop (OXS disconnected) and closed loop differential pressure current is steady 17.7 mA (Bentley point a predetermined value of ~10 mA if running in open loop). Is there anybody experienced such weird behavior of controls? Any testing procedure for ECU? Any help is highly appreciated! Dobby From scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com Sun Jan 5 14:01:29 2003 From: scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com (scott thomas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: broken flywheel pin should've used 2084 Message-ID: Well, I tried to use the controversial bolt through the bellhousing on my 200q, only to break the tdc timing pin. I ended up buying 2084 anyway, and what was left of the pin broke off 200 miles after my upper end rebuild. Anyway, I'm looking to get a shop to weld up some new material in the shape of a pin through the starter hole. I might try Chris Semple's idea of buying the pin from a dealer and extracting the stub of the old one. Lesson learned: I'll be another $150 in the hole with the repair of the pin. I paid $68 for 2084 from Zelenda. My lesson learned is to not take anymore shortcuts and buy the proper tools. 2084 was cheap. A flywheel job isn't . Anyway, there were no holes at 9 o'clock on the bellhousing except for the observation holes for the pin. I would just buy the proper tools from now on. Anyone repair their pin with success? Any BTDT's? The Official Dream Theater Site - http://www.dreamtheater.net/ ___________________________________________________________ Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com From brett at cloud9.net Sun Jan 5 14:18:36 2003 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS In-Reply-To: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> References: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> Message-ID: At 12:43 PM -0500 1/5/03, JordanVw@aol.com wrote: >watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS to the >list... >just a fyi Huw's "fit", which was 50% in response to slander*, 50% reminding people of list policy, does not compare to the temper-tantrum you and Aaron are engaged in...which seems to be about 50% bitterness and 50% immaturity, and has raged on for days. If you can't play by the -few- rules that exist on a FREE resource(one of which happens to be somewhere along the lines of "be nice to others", the other which asks you to use a separate, FREE resource which reaches a rather targeted audience, instead of spamming 2,000 people), don't let the door smack you on the ass on the way out. There are rules, and they are designed to keep the list an enjoyable, useful resource to all; you do not have some inalienable right to do whatever you damn well please here. Brett *Aaron claimed 'nobody looks at the marketplace' despite having zero access to such information, making for uninformed rambling at best and slander at worst. Having just analyzed the webserver logs, I can tell you he's wrong, to the tune of about 400 hits per day, 13,000-20,000 per month. It is, in fact, the most popular area of the website. -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com Sun Jan 5 14:19:25 2003 From: scott at dreamtheater.zzn.com (scott thomas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: using hall sender to trigger tdc sensor? Message-ID: I was wondering if I could use the hall sender in the distributor to trigger the tdc terminals of my ecu to get my 200q running? I have a couple of books for the wiring, but the conflict is if the dist gives off more signals than the flywheel, but the ecu eliminates the other signals because the flywheel confirms the position of tdc? I'm gonna get a new tdc pin welded up tomorrow, but just wondering. BTW- what's the vag part number of the replacement pin? The Official Dream Theater Site - http://www.dreamtheater.net/ ___________________________________________________________ Get your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com From dans at audifans.com Sun Jan 5 14:20:55 2003 From: dans at audifans.com (dans) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Bordercolor Message-ID: <200301051920.h05JKtc242981@logs-we.proxy.aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on www.audifans.com) Found virus WORM_KLEZ.H in file links The file is deleted. --------------------------------------------------------- From pizzoman at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 11:30:08 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season In-Reply-To: <41.291edd9c.2b49b91c@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030105193008.69925.qmail@web20803.mail.yahoo.com> FWIW, was watching SPEED the other night and saw a bunch of imola TT's and Merc C-Classes going around a track and the RS6 was the pace car. ALMS? Joe --- JShadzi@aol.com wrote: > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I heard from a friend of mine yesterday who works > for the Champion S4 team > that they will be racing RS6's next year, they're > developing and building the > cars right now, with motor development in > conjunction with Cosworth. Pretty > exciting stuff, next season should be even more > competitive than this years. > Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a > 6-speed here in the states, > well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) > > Javad > _______________________________________________ > S-CAR-List mailing list > S-CAR-List@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Sun Jan 5 19:36:51 2003 From: Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior References: <20030105152625.19573.qmail@web40706.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000a01c2b4f1$cea31ef0$ea2a883e@JIM> When I relayed my lights I found that the UK 'Dim Dip' circuit could cause the relays to be self-energising if the ignition was switched off before the lights were. Tried a solution with a diode pack to stop the problem, lasted 12 months before one of the diodes burned out. Replaced the pack with another relay and a change to the circuit. Now I've got relayed lights and a working 'Dim Dip' setting. Regards, Jim Haseltine ----- Original Message ----- From: "james accordino" To: Cc: "audi list" Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 3:26 PM Subject: Re: Really weird Euro light behavior > Both low beams work. The high on the left is out. > I'm still trying to determine where the power is > coming from when the key is off/out. I really think > now it's either a bad relay or the combi switch. > > Jim Accordino > > --- Kent McLean wrote: > > james accordino wrote: > > >Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi > > >beam indicator 1/2 bright. > > > > I recall that it's possible to mix the ground wires > > on > > the headlights (don't know exactly how; that's why > > we have some EEs on the list). The result is that > > when one low-beam light burns out, electricity can > > feed back through ground to the high beam, causing > > it to glow at less than 100%. > > > > Or something like that. I'm hoping this will jog > > someone > > with a better memory and more knowledge than me. > > > > Kent > > '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. > http://mailplus.yahoo.com > > From dave at expertfriend.com Sun Jan 5 14:44:01 2003 From: dave at expertfriend.com (Dave Arkle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: The Sickness Message-ID: <009f01c2b4f2$cc4870a0$9701a8c0@MINIME> Hi all; As many of you have read, I'm actively shopping for a type44 car right now. I only just realized how deep my sickness is with regard to these cars... I have actually only looked at 1 car (the auto 100 I asked about last week), haven't decided on or even necessarity found a car yet (though several are promising), and yet somehow I just won an auction on eBay for a set of 15x7 5x112 ET45 oem A4 wheels. Is there a doctor in the house? Anyway, I thank everyone for the wheel info, and after considering my options, I decided on these because of 1) hassle-free fitment 2) el cheapo ($265 for a nice set) and 3) I always liked the looks of the 6 spoke wheels. Dave Arkle DoD #11011 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for an Audi TQ... From kentmclean at mindspring.com Sun Jan 5 15:28:58 2003 From: kentmclean at mindspring.com (Kent McLean) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season Message-ID: Javad wrote: >Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a 6-speed here in the states, >well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) So how far down the waiting list are you? :-) Kent '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" From davidt at opentext.com Sun Jan 5 15:49:38 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: A really good day :-) Message-ID: Hi all, Well the wagon is in the garage and I started to do the head replacement at about 10am this morning. I started undoing all the harnesses and labeling them, did the vacuum hoses as well. As we all know this has to be done cause I can't remember where they all go after reassembly :-) I figured I would try to unbolt the intake with the head in the car. Presto, all the intake bolts came out with very little problem. So off with the intake. 20% of the hassles out the way. With the exaust manifold in plain site, figured had nothing to loose and started to undo the manifold nuts. 9 out of 10 were on with less than 5lbs of torque! The last one on the bottom would not allow a wrench :-( So, after trying for an hour I then looked at the exaust manifold to pipe connection. 3 bolts, not a problem right? Well, the first two came out easy, the last one, right by the block was the hard one. After 20 minutes of scratched hands and 1/8th turn ratchets, the last one came out. So, I have stopped there cause I still need to drain the antifreeze before proceeding. Just a note, it seems DPO put on a scrap yard starter and when they bolted it on the didn't put the top bolt in all the way. It was 1/4" from being completely seated! No wonder the starter had a hard time starting :-) So far I have had estimates of 8 hours from shops to do this job, so far I have 5 hours into it, I'm thinking not bad so far. Fun and games... More to come, stay tuned... David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Jan 5 13:14:59 2003 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS In-Reply-To: ; from brett@cloud9.net on Sun, Jan 05, 2003 at 02:18:36PM -0500 References: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> Message-ID: <20030105131459.B24944@brain.ee.washington.edu> The marketplace url is the number 2 entry point to the web site, just behind www.audifans.com. 445 visits in the past 5 days, and that's just people 'coming in the marketplace door'. Definitely active, as is the registry. -- www.mchang.org | www.acmelab.org | decss.zoy.org From davidt at opentext.com Sun Jan 5 16:23:25 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Warm up valve Message-ID: Hi all, My wagon is missing the warm-up valve! Is this normal? Some DPO take it off? Emmisions requirement? Thanks David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From crankshaft at adelphia.net Sun Jan 5 13:35:46 2003 From: crankshaft at adelphia.net (Aaron Gibson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS References: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E18A532.3070605@adelphia.net> Hi Brett, Your right I didnt have the concrete #'s that you have access to,but I have offered items on the Marketplace with no success. I guess I should have worded my response better and for that I am very sorry. I have noticed how you and Huw get so upset over a minor thing. I must also say that you tend to word your responses to the offending party in a condescending manner. I personally don't care about Mr JordanVW posting his item to the general list ,but I do care how some listers treat the offending member. If you expect kindness then offer it to others. Brett I do have a question for you. Are you the moderator? I have seen you post many times about what not to do ,but I have never heard anyone mention that you personally are the head guy. I've also noticed after reading the subscription page (audifans.com) that posting items F/S to the quattro list is not forbidden. Now before I say for sure that it is infact not posted Im asking you to confirm it for me. If it is posted on the site send me the link please. So if we have no ground rules how do you expect us to conform? Because you say what is and what isnt correct? So me the rules and I will follow them to the letter! Regards, Aaron Brett Dikeman wrote: > At 12:43 PM -0500 1/5/03, JordanVw@aol.com wrote: > >> watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS >> to the >> list... >> just a fyi > > > Huw's "fit", which was 50% in response to slander*, 50% reminding > people of list policy, does not compare to the temper-tantrum you and > Aaron are engaged in...which seems to be about 50% bitterness and 50% > immaturity, and has raged on for days. > > If you can't play by the -few- rules that exist on a FREE resource(one > of which happens to be somewhere along the lines of "be nice to > others", the other which asks you to use a separate, FREE resource > which reaches a rather targeted audience, instead of spamming 2,000 > people), don't let the door smack you on the ass on the way out. > > There are rules, and they are designed to keep the list an > enjoyable, useful resource to all; you do not have some inalienable > right to do whatever you damn well please here. > > Brett > *Aaron claimed 'nobody looks at the marketplace' despite having zero > access to such information, making for uninformed rambling at best and > slander at worst. Having just analyzed the webserver logs, I can tell > you he's wrong, to the tune of about 400 hits per day, 13,000-20,000 > per month. It is, in fact, the most popular area of the website. From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Jan 5 16:41:15 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Warm up valve Message-ID: <67.663cb7e.2b4a007b@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] David, not sure what you're referring to exactly, but on your '85 I believe you should have CIS-E, in which case it has an ISV which takes care cold idling. All CIS cars should have a cold-start valve, but I think you're referring to the aluminum aux. air valve that lets in extra air for cold starts, which your car shouldn't have if its a CIS-E (aluminum colored fuel distributor). HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/5/2003 1:31:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, davidt@opentext.com writes: > Hi all, > > My wagon is missing the warm-up valve! Is this normal? Some DPO take it > off? Emmisions requirement? > > Thanks > David A. Templeton > '85 5Ks wagon From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Jan 5 16:44:28 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] About 10-15 years, my typical lead time on aquiring an Audi since its release ;) Javad In a message dated 1/5/2003 12:31:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, kentmclean@mindspring.com writes: So how far down the waiting list are you? :-) Kent '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" Javad wrote: > > >Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a 6-speed here in the states, > >well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) > > From sam at edgetoedge.co.nz Mon Jan 6 11:01:42 2003 From: sam at edgetoedge.co.nz (e2e) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Wounded window winder Message-ID: Happy new year folks. Just spent two weeks at the beach, but that?s another story... My 1990 200TQA has eaten its drivers (RHD) electric window winder. The plastic drum that the cable spools around and back gave up and has eaten the cable nicely. Hooray now I can be a member of both team door handle and team windwoe! Ok so how do I extract the cable off the window??? The cable does not want to come off the rail that the window runs up and down neither does the rail want to come off the runner that is attached to the window, nor does the runner want to come off the widow. Now wire cutters will work in a flash but that won't help me in the long run. Do any of you kiwis out there have a spare window winder, mine is electrically 100% all I must have is the plastic drum I can at a pinch get the cable remade but would rather replace the whole lot. -- Sam Clarkson From davidt at opentext.com Sun Jan 5 17:18:16 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Warm up valve Message-ID: It is the valve on the rad side of the block, just back from cyl 3, the Haynes manual calls it a warm up valve. The donor car, also an '85 had one, just wondered. I had to take it off to get the had off cause it staddled the head/block joint. Any ideas? David A. Templeton -----Original Message----- From: JShadzi@aol.com To: davidt@opentext.com ; quattro@audifans.com Sent: Sun Jan 05 16:41:15 2003 Subject: Re: Warm up valve David, not sure what you're referring to exactly, but on your '85 I believe you should have CIS-E, in which case it has an ISV which takes care cold idling. All CIS cars should have a cold-start valve, but I think you're referring to the aluminum aux. air valve that lets in extra air for cold starts, which your car shouldn't have if its a CIS-E (aluminum colored fuel distributor). HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/5/2003 1:31:46 PM Pacific Standard Time, davidt@opentext.com writes: Hi all, My wagon is missing the warm-up valve! Is this normal? Some DPO take it off? Emmisions requirement? Thanks David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From ti at amb.org Sun Jan 5 14:38:37 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Warm up valve In-Reply-To: from "David Templeton" at Jan 05, 2003 05:18:16 PM Message-ID: <200301052238.WAA27049@amb.org> David Templeton writes: > It is the valve on the rad side of the block, just back from cyl 3, the > Haynes manual calls it a warm up valve. The donor car, also an '85 had one, > just wondered. I had to take it off to get the had off cause it staddled the > head/block joint. Your car doesn't have one. The "warm up valve" you refer to is properly called the "control pressure regulator" and is only used on the earlier CIS cars. Your car has CIS-E, and the function of the CPR has been supplanted by the differential pressure regulator on the fuel distributor, under ECU control. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From quattro at centurytel.net Sun Jan 5 14:43:22 2003 From: quattro at centurytel.net (Joseph Rae) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle Message-ID: <000601c2b50b$da9f0ec0$1100a8c0@achtung> Hey Everybody, I need the part number for the little white plastic sockets that clip onto the door handle of the 5000cstq for the locking mechanism and for the door striker mechanism. Both of mine on the drivers side have broken the little clip that locks it around the ball joint so I can only get 2 or 3 good opens out of the door, before having to take the handle off again. Thanks in advance Joe From munrof at sympatico.ca Sun Jan 5 18:46:29 2003 From: munrof at sympatico.ca (Fred Munro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behaviour In-Reply-To: <20030105152625.19573.qmail@web40706.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Jim; This is stirring up vague memories of a problem I had with my '91 200q when I installed the Euros and relays. As I recall, somewhere in it's previous life a relay had been installed in the normally empty fog light relay socket in the under-hood relay/fuse box. This was back-feeding enough power into the headlight circuit (it was not the right relay for the application, so the pin-out was incorrect) that the headlight relay operation was totally fouled up. It took me a long time to track it down - I was sure the combi switch was bad, but it tested out good three times before I finally believed it was OK. It might be worth checking out. Good luck! Fred Munro '94 S4 -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of james accordino Sent: January 5, 2003 10:26 AM To: kentmclean@mindspring.com Cc: audi list Subject: Re: Really weird Euro light behavior Both low beams work. The high on the left is out. I'm still trying to determine where the power is coming from when the key is off/out. I really think now it's either a bad relay or the combi switch. Jim Accordino --- Kent McLean wrote: > james accordino wrote: > >Low Beam- low beam on left, low and hi on right, hi > >beam indicator 1/2 bright. > > I recall that it's possible to mix the ground wires > on > the headlights (don't know exactly how; that's why > we have some EEs on the list). The result is that > when one low-beam light burns out, electricity can > feed back through ground to the high beam, causing > it to glow at less than 100%. > > Or something like that. I'm hoping this will jog > someone > with a better memory and more knowledge than me. > > Kent > '89 200 TQ, "Bad Puppy" > > > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From Simplstupd at aol.com Sun Jan 5 18:49:04 2003 From: Simplstupd at aol.com (Simplstupd@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: odd running/CTS/mystery plug Message-ID: <184.14b0a566.2b4a1e70@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] On my 82 Coupe CIS it has always cranked for 6-8 seconds when cold before starting. Then it idles a little rough. Once warmed up it cranks for 1 second then runs well. I'm in FL and it has gotten colder then normal(down in mid 30's). Anyway, if I go out on a 35F morning and start it, it fires the instant I hit the ignition switch. Then it has the most beautiful idle, and runs purrfect. But, if it was a 45 or above morning, thats when it crank 6-8 seconds before firing. Thoughts? I unplugged the CTS and will see if it has any effect, there was some mention in archives. What is the female plug for right by the oxy sensor wiring. Part # 171 971 999A I get 8.2 volts across terminals when running...what does this mean? Paul From urq at pacbell.net Sun Jan 5 15:56:29 2003 From: urq at pacbell.net (urq) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: using hall sender to trigger tdc sensor? References: Message-ID: <006001c2b516$1128f500$b97ba8c0@RAPID> > I was wondering if I could use the hall sender in the distributor to > trigger the tdc terminals of my ecu to get my 200q running? I have a > couple of books for the wiring, but the conflict is if the dist gives > off more signals than the flywheel, but the ecu eliminates the other > signals because the flywheel confirms the position of tdc? ... I don't think I'd even suggest trying to fake the signals ... the timing signals from the pins are used by the ECU to precisely determine the ignition timing, and there are errors in the path from the crank to the dizzy which might well create even more problems in your engine. Furthermore, the output of the Hall Sender is a digital signal (1 or 0) while the timing sensors have a much more analog signal coming from them as the pin flies by ... > > I'm gonna get a new tdc pin welded up tomorrow, but just wondering. > > BTW- what's the vag part number of the replacement pin? > I don't know if you have an MC or a 3B, but from TFA it doesn't seem to matter. It also appears that TFA is a bit confused as the pins go. From the diagram I would say that your part number is N 904 013 210 1 (Item #11, MG 1, SG 5, Ill 5-00), quantity is stated as two ... but the description is "housing for lighter" ... ??? There are two other dowels listed ... Item 11A, Qty 1 N 902 318 01 "dowel pin 4H8X20" and item 12, Qty 3 N 013 210 1 "dowel pin 6M6X16". I'm pretty sure Item 12 is for the pins that locate the pressure plate ... Good luck! Sorry to hear you learned the lesson about not using the proper tools the hard way. I figure that the money I save on doing the job one time more than pays for the tools ... and they usually end up saving my time in doing the job as well. With all the Audis in my garage and driveway I've found I've needed them pretty often as well ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From urq at pacbell.net Sun Jan 5 16:00:33 2003 From: urq at pacbell.net (urq) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS References: <1a3.e8eef8a.2b49c8b8@aol.com> Message-ID: <006401c2b516$a21fdba0$b97ba8c0@RAPID> > > watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS to > the list... > just a fyi ... I am finding it less and less possible to keep up with this list anymore so I don't know any details on what prompted this and other responses to FS posters, but from what I've seen over time I'd say that Huw has been pretty reasonable about when he calls people on the carpet for selling things on the main list. To me, someone posting one car for sale, or a single post with several cars in it is not a sign of someone using the list to create income for themselves ... which is when I start to have problems with FS ads on the list. There are folks who seem to be on the list to sell stuff ... when you look at their list posts a significant percentage of them are FS ads ... to my mind this is abuse of the list. As others have noted there is a Marketplace on the audifans site ... I know that I monitor the list for items for sale, and actually have been fairly active there. If someone doesn't think anyone looks there because they don't get responses to their ads it may well be that they are trying to sell things that noone wants ... or they are asking too much for what they have for sale ... Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From raveracer77 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 19:12:07 2003 From: raveracer77 at hotmail.com (Rave Racer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season References: <20030105212044.17861.55297.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: If you're asking if the car is for the series, could be. Mosport is owned by Panoz, but the track is sponsored by Audi so all the pace cars were either A4's, S4's, or the odd TT. Even with series that had other sponsors. If there was an S6 I never saw it. That's not to say there wasn't one. The Grand Am series is sponsored by Ford, so I'm guessing they'll be using their pace cars for all the tracks that don't have a brand sponsorship. At least I think that's how it works. For the upcoming ALMS season, I don't know who the brand sponsor for the series is. Of course last year it was Audi, this may change with the alleged tentative drop of Audi from factory support. Do you remember what track you saw that RS6 pace car at? You may be able to look up on the web to see what that track is using as their sponsor, if they have one. Rave Racer '89 Jetta 1.8L 16V GTX gone but not forgotten http://www.vwot.org/members/Pete.html '87 Audi 4000 Quattro Sedan another victim of time http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=110 '72 Triumph GT6 http://www.triumphowners.com/uploaded/50-50-111014_20raveracer-gt6-1.jpg '83 Toyota Tercel (yoda) ...is no more > > Message: 11 > Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:30:08 -0800 (PST) > From: Joseph Pizzimenti > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season > To: JShadzi@aol.com, quattro@audifans.com, s-car-list@audifans.com, > urq@audifans.com > > FWIW, was watching SPEED the other night and saw a > bunch of imola TT's and Merc C-Classes going around a > track and the RS6 was the pace car. ALMS? > > Joe > --- JShadzi@aol.com wrote: > > -- > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > I heard from a friend of mine yesterday who works > > for the Champion S4 team > > that they will be racing RS6's next year, they're > > developing and building the > > cars right now, with motor development in > > conjunction with Cosworth. Pretty > > exciting stuff, next season should be even more > > competitive than this years. > > Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a > > 6-speed here in the states, > > well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) > > > > Javad From JShadzi at aol.com Sun Jan 5 19:06:59 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:51 2003 Subject: using hall sender to trigger tdc sensor? Message-ID: <38.33acde9c.2b4a22a3@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The output of the hall sener is a 0-5v signal, what do you mean by "digital signal"? Javad In a message dated 1/5/2003 4:01:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, urq@pacbell.net writes: > Furthermore, the output of the Hall Sender is a digital signal (1 or 0) > while the timing sensors have a much more analog signal coming from them as > the pin flies by ... > From dans at audifans.com Sun Jan 5 19:05:03 2003 From: dans at audifans.com (dans) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Listed here, please let me know at Message-ID: <200301060005.h06052379695@logs-tq.proxy.aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on www.audifans.com) Found virus WORM_KLEZ.H in file to The file is deleted. --------------------------------------------------------- From adamb at net1plus.com Sun Jan 5 19:23:37 2003 From: adamb at net1plus.com (Adam Brodeur) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Bad short! Argh ! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: What brand of alternator are you using? I went through 3 Nastra (cheap product from economy parts store) alternators from on my 84 4KSQ before figuring out that Nastra is a cr*p remanufacturer. Replaced it with an Excel unit and haven't had any problems since. Just my .02. -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Robert Deis Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 11:04 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Bad short! Argh ! Here's what I know: 1> Car was *fine* last Sunday. I parked it with no sign of trouble until today- though it has snowed since then. 2> Went to start it today, no juice. 3> Jumped it and it started, but when I shut it off battery drained to zero in seconds, even with the key off. 4> While driving, the ABS light flashes in a regular rythm if and only if the car is moving. Panel lights dim and radio has a popping noise at the same rythm. Frequency is constant regardless of RPM or speed, so long as speed is non-zero. 5> Turn the ABS off, and the popping and flashing go away, but the short doesn't. 6> Removed ABS controller and fuse #12, short is still there. Last time I had a big short it was the alternator, which was replaced in September. Any ideas? If not I'll start pulling fuses... Bleah.. If it *is* the alternator, this will be the third one this year- what's could be eating them up? -- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 From ti at amb.org Sun Jan 5 17:04:39 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: odd running/CTS/mystery plug In-Reply-To: <184.14b0a566.2b4a1e70@aol.com> from "Simplstupd@aol.com" at Jan 05, 2003 06:49:04 PM Message-ID: <200301060104.BAA27360@amb.org> Simplstupd@aol.com writes: > On my 82 Coupe CIS it has always cranked for 6-8 seconds when cold before > starting. Then it idles a little rough. Once warmed up it cranks for 1 > second then runs well. > I'm in FL and it has gotten colder then normal(down in mid 30's). Anyway, if > I go out on a 35F morning and start it, it fires the instant I hit the > ignition switch. Then it has the most beautiful idle, and runs purrfect. > But, if it was a 45 or above morning, thats when it crank 6-8 seconds before > firing. Thoughts? Maybe your CIS fuel enrichment devices are activating at too low a temperature. These involve: - Thermo-time switch (for cold starting) - Control pressure regulator, auxiliary air regulator, OXS thermoswitch (for cold running). > I unplugged the CTS and will see if it has any effect, there was > some mention in archives. What's a CTS? > What is the female plug for right by the oxy sensor wiring. Part # 171 971 > 999A > I get 8.2 volts across terminals when running...what does this mean? That's probably the diagnostic connector used for measuring the frequency valve duty cycle. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From l.leung at juno.com Sat Jan 4 17:44:55 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - What I did over Christmas Message-ID: <20030105.201059.1436.7.l.leung@juno.com> Greg Galinsky or Marc Rosenkratz could probably correct me on this, but snow tires tend to have more elastomers or some such to keep their durometer soft in cold weather conditions (i.e. lower the glassing point so that they actually act like rubber when cold, rather than like glass), but these additives are rather volatile and eventually get driven off by high temperatures (generally caused by extended highway travel, especially on dry pavement). So generally, snow tires become "hard" and less capable with age MUCH quicker than other types of tires, in spite of their tread depth. When I used to commute 120/day in the snow belt, I used to give up on my snowies on a 2 yr cycle religiously, even though most of the time I had between 30 - 50% original tread depth. By the time the 2 yrs were up, the tire rubber was so hard that the tires were useless as snows by the third season. Now, with a shorter commute, I can generally pull about 3 -4 yrs per set, and even wear them down to maybe 4 -5 32nds tread depth with no problems. The biggest problem at that this point of tread depth wear is snow stability (not traction), ice capability is less compromised. LL - NY > Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:47:11 -0500 > From: B Vibert > To: Fred Munro > Cc: TM , 'Robert Myers' , > s-car-list@audifans.com, 'Quattro list' > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my > Eagle > Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two > years. > This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't get > much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. > Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they just > don't work once they get worn down a bit. > > Burl Vibert > 1987 5kcstq > Kingston, Ontario > > > > Fred Munro wrote: > > > > Hi Taka; > > > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get > down to 50% > > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and > stability in slush > > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more > like > > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time > toodling > > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my > driving is > > highway. > > > > Fred Munro > > '94 S4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > Bob- > > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was > driving in > > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically > in > > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 > to > > 1/2 of the original tread? > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > quattro mailing list > quattro@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > End of quattro Digest > > From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 18:02:11 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Really weird Euro light behavior In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030106020211.87225.qmail@web40709.mail.yahoo.com> I turns out it's a bad relay for the high bulb on the left side. I noticed rust colored residue at the cover/base joint on the relay. The ADI (calcium hypochlorite?) they use on the highways here in PA do a great job at keeping the slop from freezing on the roadsurface, but also apparently a great job at penetrating electricals. Oh well, guess I'll need to cover/encase them somehow. BTW, the grounds are attached with stainless hardware and coated and were very clean, as were all the shrinksleeved and coated terminals. Jim Accordino --- scott miller wrote: > >No, I made new heavy gauge grounds for each side. > >Both high and low relays on each side share a > ground > >on their side. > > So the brown wire coming out of each bulb also goes > to your new grounds? > Also, if you can, check the connections inside the > bulb, that thin, brown > wire connects to all three bulbs. > > Your dilema is what I feared with adding relays and > complication. I'm not > sure if you can back-feed power through your > hi-beams and relays because of > a bad ground, depends on what kind of relays were > used. Water in components > or wiring could provide a backward path to ground. > > >ps-that's GREAT bulb life for higher wattage units > BTW > > My brother has run big bulbs in euros on his 4kcsq > for over ten years with > few new bulbs. No relays. My Mitsu used to gobble > them. > > Scott > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months > FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From ssgacc at yahoo.com Sun Jan 5 18:13:51 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030106021351.50112.qmail@web40707.mail.yahoo.com> I believe it's DTM. The main combatants are C-class Mercs. and Audi TT's. Caught some on SpeedChannel. Jim Accordino --- Rave Racer wrote: > > If you're asking if the car is for the series, > could be. Mosport is > owned by Panoz, but the track is sponsored by Audi > so all the pace cars were > either A4's, S4's, or the odd TT. Even with series > that had other sponsors. > If there was an S6 I never saw it. That's not to > say there wasn't one. The > Grand Am series is sponsored by Ford, so I'm > guessing they'll be using their > pace cars for all the tracks that don't have a brand > sponsorship. At least > I think that's how it works. For the upcoming ALMS > season, I don't know who > the brand sponsor for the series is. Of course last > year it was Audi, this > may change with the alleged tentative drop of Audi > from factory support. Do > you remember what track you saw that RS6 pace car > at? You may be able to > look up on the web to see what that track is using > as their sponsor, if they > have one. > > Rave Racer > '89 Jetta 1.8L 16V GTX gone but not forgotten > http://www.vwot.org/members/Pete.html > '87 Audi 4000 Quattro Sedan another victim of > time > > http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.php?action=viewCar&carid=110 > '72 Triumph GT6 > > http://www.triumphowners.com/uploaded/50-50-111014_20raveracer-gt6-1.jpg > '83 Toyota Tercel (yoda) ...is no more > > > > > > Message: 11 > > Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 11:30:08 -0800 (PST) > > From: Joseph Pizzimenti > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] Speed World Challenge > Champion Racing RS6 next > season > > To: JShadzi@aol.com, quattro@audifans.com, > s-car-list@audifans.com, > > urq@audifans.com > > > > FWIW, was watching SPEED the other night and saw a > > bunch of imola TT's and Merc C-Classes going > around a > > track and the RS6 was the pace car. ALMS? > > > > Joe > > --- JShadzi@aol.com wrote: > > > -- > > > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > > I heard from a friend of mine yesterday who > works > > > for the Champion S4 team > > > that they will be racing RS6's next year, > they're > > > developing and building the > > > cars right now, with motor development in > > > conjunction with Cosworth. Pretty > > > exciting stuff, next season should be even more > > > competitive than this years. > > > Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a > > > 6-speed here in the states, > > > well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) > > > > > > Javad > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From l.leung at juno.com Sun Jan 5 20:52:35 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4425 - 18 msgs Message-ID: <20030105.211536.1436.10.l.leung@juno.com> In my experience clearances are tight I have A4 rims (16 x 7, 45 mm offset), rear fender clearances are tight (about 6 mm) and front steering knuckle clearances are even tighter (about 1 mm) with 205/55-16 Kumho 711's. Front spacers would help or the use of A8 16 x 7, 37 mm ON THE FRONT only. Note, although my car is lowered (H+R's) the clearance issues would be the same. LL - NY > From: "Dave Arkle" > To: > Subject: Wheel sizes > Date: Sat, 4 Jan 2003 17:32:20 -0500 > > Hi all; > > Where can I go to find out what wheels will fit my soon-to-be 5K or > 200? I > see ads for wheels that seem to be contradictory. For examlple, > there are a > few auctions on eBay that have wheels from an A8, and the auction > specifically lists that they fit on the 200 (there is a chart of > 'what fits' > and it's a big wheel retailer, not an individual). Then there are > other > auctions that have A8 wheels, but the Type 44 is conspicuously > absent from > the list. > > What I'm looking for is a set of 16" wheels, so maybe someone could > offer up > their experiences? I like the idea of finding OEM Audi wheels from > a > different model (like A8 maybe) but I can't seem to find > conclusively which > ones will fit. > > Thanks! > > Dave Arkle > DoD #11011 > 96 Daytona 1200 > 84 V65 Sabre > 67 Buick LeSabre > On the hunt for an Audi TQ... > From l.leung at juno.com Sun Jan 5 21:02:56 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4428 - 16 msgs Message-ID: <20030105.211536.1436.11.l.leung@juno.com> FYI, IF we are talking 4KQ, there are no bolts holding on the rear spoiler, just adhesive. If it's a 90Q, then I don't know. LL - NY > From: Jpinkowish@aol.com > Date: Sun, 5 Jan 2003 12:18:43 EST > Subject: Re: 4kq trunk center reflector removal / leak repair > To: quattro@audifans.com, lrickert@covad.net > > In a message dated 1/4/03 8:40:36 PM EST, lrickert@covad.net > writes: > > > After a good rain water pours out of the right side of trunk lid > reflectors/light unit > > when I open the trunk. The light socket is supposed to be in > there has been > > missing since I got the car. > > > > anyway the questions are: > > > > 1) how can water get into the reflector thing? > > Hi Luke, > I occasionally get the water drip thing too. Only for me, the h2o > comes out > of the stamped metal piece on the inside of the lower trunk lip that > is just > below the center section light unit. Even though I installed new > automotive > caulking around the center section and lights, water prolly gets in > through > capillary action somewhere. You can also check around the bolts > that hold > the spoiler to the trunk lid. > > Look more closely next time you open the trunk after a rain. If the > plastic > reflector/light isn't cracked, water shouldn't be getting into it. > > > 2) how do I get the reflector panel off the car? is it simply a > matter of > > removing the screws under the license plate and cutting the old > putty away > from > > under the outer light unit? > > Remove the screws that are behind the license plate and also the 2 > nuts on > the backsides of the L/R light sections. Use a 1-2" putty knife to > gently > separate the lights from the trunk lid. Remove the schmutzy > caulking and > replace with new. I used glass setting butyl tape from a NAPA > store. Part > #4195, 5/16" diameter. It's really more like a rope. > > Now that you have the center section off, you may discover rust > spots. Good > time to repair. > > > 3) speaking of removing the license plate, two of the four bolts > that hold > it on no > > longer have anything to attach to. (they rusted on at some point > and the > nuts > > attached to the plastic were ripped out) any suggestions for a > good way to > fix > > this? I will be replacing the steel with stainless hardware one > way or > another. > > Forget stainless; black plastic is the way to go. You can buy kits > at any > FLAPS. My suggestion for fastening the new nuts in the kit to the > center > section is to use GOOP adhesive(not the hand cleaner and not the > shoe repair > stuff) that is available at all Sears Hardware stores and prolly > Lowes/Home > Depot. A little antiseize on the plastic screws and you're all set. > BTDT > for 2 yrs with no problems. > > HTH > > Jan Pinkowish > '85 4ksq > Bristol, CT > From l.leung at juno.com Sun Jan 5 20:37:04 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4427 - Speed World Challenge RS6's Message-ID: <20030105.211536.1436.9.l.leung@juno.com> > From: JShadzi@aol.com > Other good thing, the RS6 is finally getting a 6-speed here in the > states, > well, about 3 or 4 of them anyway ;) > > Javad > Aha! I was wondering HOW they'd be racing an RS6. The only other issue I can think of is whether or not the Speed World Challenge has homologation requirements. From ur-quattro at msn.com Sun Jan 5 18:21:24 2003 From: ur-quattro at msn.com (Doug Johnson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" In-Reply-To: <20030105.201059.1436.7.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <003101c2b52a$4f37b520$4068fa43@doug> I've got a set of the original Blizzaks (1996?) that are still incredibly pliable. I was expecting them to be hard by now. Could the rubber still be soft because they've got only about 1,000 miles on them? - Doug -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Larry C Leung Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:45 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - What I did over Christmas Greg Galinsky or Marc Rosenkratz could probably correct me on this, but snow tires tend to have more elastomers or some such to keep their durometer soft in cold weather conditions (i.e. lower the glassing point so that they actually act like rubber when cold, rather than like glass), but these additives are rather volatile and eventually get driven off by high temperatures (generally caused by extended highway travel, especially on dry pavement). So generally, snow tires become "hard" and less capable with age MUCH quicker than other types of tires, in spite of their tread depth. When I used to commute 120/day in the snow belt, I used to give up on my snowies on a 2 yr cycle religiously, even though most of the time I had between 30 - 50% original tread depth. By the time the 2 yrs were up, the tire rubber was so hard that the tires were useless as snows by the third season. Now, with a shorter commute, I can generally pull about 3 -4 yrs per set, and even wear them down to maybe 4 -5 32nds tread depth with no problems. The biggest problem at that this point of tread depth wear is snow stability (not traction), ice capability is less compromised. LL - NY > Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:47:11 -0500 > From: B Vibert > To: Fred Munro > Cc: TM , 'Robert Myers' , > s-car-list@audifans.com, 'Quattro list' > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my > Eagle > Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two > years. > This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't get > much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. > Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they just > don't work once they get worn down a bit. > > Burl Vibert > 1987 5kcstq > Kingston, Ontario > > > > Fred Munro wrote: > > > > Hi Taka; > > > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get > down to 50% > > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and > stability in slush > > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more > like > > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time > toodling > > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my > driving is > > highway. > > > > Fred Munro > > '94 S4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > Bob- > > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was > driving in > > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically > in > > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 > to > > 1/2 of the original tread? > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > quattro mailing list > quattro@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > End of quattro Digest > > From mchang at ee.washington.edu Sun Jan 5 18:23:32 2003 From: mchang at ee.washington.edu (Mark L. Chang) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: LAC: Armchair rallying over the internet Message-ID: <20030105182332.H24944@brain.ee.washington.edu> Okay, really I'm talking about computer racing. Some of us just don't have the flow or the properly maintained car to do the real track thing :). I've got Colin McRae Rally 2 (CMR2) and have been playing a buddy of mine over the internet for the past couple days. Honestly, it's a BLAST. I propose something along the lines of the Audifans GetTogether that we had around Thanksgiving, but in addition to the IRC thing, perhaps we could get some armchair rallying going? I think this would be great fun for people. I can set up a voice chat server for everyone to talk head-to-head as well as on IRC. It might be fun to see some old hats out there school us non-rally folk. Also, perhaps we could get out some of the aggression that I've seen on-list in the wetlands of the UK? See Huw battle JordanVW, qshipq take on Dave Eaton, Dan Simoes vs. Brett Dikeman! Whoo-eee... could be fun! Anyone that has this already, email me off list to play :). -- www.mchang.org | www.acmelab.org | decss.zoy.org From rollins_ray at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 21:36:58 2003 From: rollins_ray at hotmail.com (Ray Rollins) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: 1991 AUDI V8 QUATTRO 5 SPD CLEAN on Ebay Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] No affiliation at all. I just wish I had money to buy it :( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876500246&category=6055[1] ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months[2] ===References:=== 1. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1876500246&category=6055 2. http://g.msn.com/8HMPEN/2018 From nokian at aaahawk.com Sun Jan 5 20:41:11 2003 From: nokian at aaahawk.com (Greg Galinsky) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" References: <003101c2b52a$4f37b520$4068fa43@doug> Message-ID: <3E18ECC7.00001A.43023@vaio> -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] One possible reason for the soft feel is that the tires may have been stored under favorable conditions. Were they kept out of UV rays and sunlight when not in use? Were they also stored in a kind of a controled temperature; in the 50 to 75degree range? Those two things will help prolong the life of the rubber; or more accuratly the miles that the rubber compounds work effectively. I'm not 100% certain how the multicell rubber compound in the Blizzaks respond to sun or heat. Their chemistry may help prolong their lifespan; when driven it certianly does not. They seem to be good for 15 to 18k on the outer tread compound Greg Galinsky G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Doug Johnson Date: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:07:01 PM To: Larry C Leung; quattro@audifans.com Subject: RE: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" I've got a set of the original Blizzaks (1996?) that are still incredibly pliable. I was expecting them to be hard by now. Could the rubber still be soft because they've got only about 1,000 miles on them? - Doug -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Larry C Leung Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:45 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - What I did over Christmas Greg Galinsky or Marc Rosenkratz could probably correct me on this, but snow tires tend to have more elastomers or some such to keep their durometer soft in cold weather conditions (i.e. lower the glassing point so that they actually act like rubber when cold, rather than like glass), but these additives are rather volatile and eventually get driven off by high temperatures (generally caused by extended highway travel, especially on dry pavement). So generally, snow tires become "hard" and less capable with age MUCH quicker than other types of tires, in spite of their tread depth. When I used to commute 120/day in the snow belt, I used to give up on my snowies on a 2 yr cycle religiously, even though most of the time I had between 30 - 50% original tread depth. By the time the 2 yrs were up, the tire rubber was so hard that the tires were useless as snows by the third season. Now, with a shorter commute, I can generally pull about 3 -4 yrs per set, and even wear them down to maybe 4 -5 32nds tread depth with no problems. The biggest problem at that this point of tread depth wear is snow stability (not traction), ice capability is less compromised. LL - NY > Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:47:11 -0500 > From: B Vibert > To: Fred Munro > Cc: TM , 'Robert Myers' , > s-car-list@audifans.com, 'Quattro list' > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my > Eagle > Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two > years. > This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't get > much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. > Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they just > don't work once they get worn down a bit. > > Burl Vibert > 1987 5kcstq > Kingston, Ontario > > > > Fred Munro wrote: > > > > Hi Taka; > > > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get > down to 50% > > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and > stability in slush > > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more > like > > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time > toodling > > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my > driving is > > highway. > > > > Fred Munro > > '94 S4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > Bob- > > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was > driving in > > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically > in > > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 > to > > 1/2 of the original tread? > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > quattro mailing list > quattro@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > End of quattro Digest > > . -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From DieMarthaDie at aol.com Sun Jan 5 21:51:29 2003 From: DieMarthaDie at aol.com (DieMarthaDie@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands Message-ID: <0135A05C.2BF5CC4D.1128B6C9@aol.com> Ok, I've had Blizzaks and Arctic Alpins and liked both under different conditions (ice=Blizzakville, dry=Alpinland) and am in need of new snows. Just FYI, Cooper Cobras really suck in snow/slush/ice... They were on the car (w/95% tread) and I haven't needed to get snows until now. Being a quattro only helps if the tires grip better than slicks. So there are lots of choices out there from Goodyear to Semperit. I want good tires for the MD/PA winters which are mostly slush and ice and less real deep snow. I want good tires and I'm ready to pay for them. What I don't want is to pay special pricing for a "boutique" label so I can make people say "huh?" when I say I have Vreedsteens or something. Unless of course they really are worth it. I know we've gone round and round about tires, and there are lots of archives, but now its really snowing and people will have fresh opinions. So, before I go back to Blizzaks or Alpins, please give me your unabashed thoughts on the lesser known brands, like the Nokian, Semperit, Gislavad, etc... And I really don't care if anyone has ever heard of my tires, I want them to work. This will be on a 1990 V8Q with 15" rims, most likely. Thanks for your opinions. I know there are some out there ;) John 83CGT Alpins 90V8Q slipnslide Cobras From knotnook at traverse.com Sun Jan 5 21:55:13 2003 From: knotnook at traverse.com (Kneale Brownson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle In-Reply-To: <000601c2b50b$da9f0ec0$1100a8c0@achtung> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030105215332.024836a0@traverse.com> Someone reported recently they found substitute parts for those plastic sockets at a radio-control model shop. Maybe you can find the posting through a Google search on Audifans.com ??? At 02:43 PM 01/05/2003 -0800, Joseph Rae wrote: >Hey Everybody, > >I need the part number for the little white plastic sockets that clip >onto the door handle of the 5000cstq for the locking mechanism and for >the door striker mechanism. Both of mine on the drivers side have broken >the little clip that locks it around the ball joint so I can only get 2 >or 3 good opens out of the door, before having to take the handle off >again. > > >Thanks in advance > >Joe From desmo888 at comcast.net Sun Jan 5 22:38:17 2003 From: desmo888 at comcast.net (Dave K.) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands References: <0135A05C.2BF5CC4D.1128B6C9@aol.com> Message-ID: <025601c2b535$0d179a60$9b575244@DDGCH321> Nokian Hakka 1 - they are amazing. The grip unbelievealby well and they last a long time (probably 6 or 7 seasons). etires.com has them but you might be able to find them locally too. I have put these on my Quattros as well as the wife's minivan. In all cases they provided amazing traction. Dave Kase south central PA '90 Coupe Quattro ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 9:51 PM Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands Ok, I've had Blizzaks and Arctic Alpins and liked both under different conditions (ice=Blizzakville, dry=Alpinland) and am in need of new snows. Just FYI, Cooper Cobras really suck in snow/slush/ice... They were on the car (w/95% tread) and I haven't needed to get snows until now. Being a quattro only helps if the tires grip better than slicks. So there are lots of choices out there from Goodyear to Semperit. I want good tires for the MD/PA winters which are mostly slush and ice and less real deep snow. I want good tires and I'm ready to pay for them. What I don't want is to pay special pricing for a "boutique" label so I can make people say "huh?" when I say I have Vreedsteens or something. Unless of course they really are worth it. I know we've gone round and round about tires, and there are lots of archives, but now its really snowing and people will have fresh opinions. So, before I go back to Blizzaks or Alpins, please give me your unabashed thoughts on the lesser known brands, like the Nokian, Semperit, Gislavad, etc... And I really don't care if anyone has ever heard of my tires, I want them to work. This will be on a 1990 V8Q with 15" rims, most likely. Thanks for your opinions. I know there are some out there ;) John 83CGT Alpins 90V8Q slipnslide Cobras From auditude at cox.net Sun Jan 5 21:44:20 2003 From: auditude at cox.net (auditude@cox.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: broken flywheel pin should've used 2084 Message-ID: <3E18A734.24812.26D9DAA@localhost> Hi Sachelle, Sorry to hear about that. That really does suck. I was going to suggest you used the wrong hole, but then I read your post more carefully and see that you did use a different hole. Hindsight is 20/20 of course, but the observation hole isn't the "official" hole for that unofficial method. I don't know why your tranny doesn't have the same hole mine do. I still believe that as long as you have the right hole present, the biggest risk is to the crankshaft itself from twisting, and the flywheel pins aren't in any jeopardy. Since you now bought the tool this won't help you, but I think the next best thing to buying the tool, and what I'm going to try to do, is to construct a 2084-type of tool out of a piece of square tubing and angle iron. Here is the webpage that describes its simple construction: http://home1.gte.net/pdooley/AUDITOOL.html I am going to try to make one of these, as I need to pull the crank pulley off of a motor on a stand, so that I can put it in the 4ksq without doing the usual core support mod. It worked for pulling the motor out of there, but for that motor I had a bellhousing to do the tranny bolt method with. I just am not sure where to get bits of metal like that around here (AZ) like I did in CA. That's crazy that recently there was another timing pin breaking incident. Too bad there isn't already a hole behind it to devise some sort of a pusher tool or something to get the remnants of the old one out. As recent as it was, I have already forgotten what the resolution to the other listers broken timing pin was. It was solved, perhaps it was with JB Weld, I can't remember which option actually ended up being used and worked. I think it did get resolved tho'. Good luck with getting that resolved. Ken scott thomas scott@dreamtheater.zzn.com wrote: > > Well, I tried to use the controversial bolt through the bellhousing > on my 200q, only to break the tdc timing pin. I ended up buying 2084 > anyway, and what was left of the pin broke off 200 miles after my > upper end rebuild. > > Anyway, I'm looking to get a shop to weld up some new material in the > shape of a pin through the starter hole. I might try Chris Semple's > idea of buying the pin from a dealer and extracting the stub of the > old one. > > Lesson learned: I'll be another $150 in the hole with the repair of > the pin. I paid $68 for 2084 from Zelenda. My lesson learned is to > not take anymore shortcuts and buy the proper tools. 2084 was cheap. > A flywheel job isn't . Anyway, there were no holes at 9 o'clock on > the bellhousing except for the observation holes for the pin. I would > just buy the proper tools from now on. > > Anyone repair their pin with success? Any BTDT's? From rinard at execpc.com Sun Jan 5 23:00:41 2003 From: rinard at execpc.com (Russ Maki) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: 4000q has an "episode" References: <20030106025034.2218.98189.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <000401c2b540$90d7ee80$867acfa9@execpc.com> My '87 4000 quat had an odd episode over the weekend. I had just got done replacing the right E-brake cable and pull rod (twisted off at a rusty point when I was trying to install the cable). I fired it up and it acted as though the wiring to the differential pressure regulator was disconnected -- hard to keep it running, some backfiring, etc. Shortly thereafter I noticed that the trip computer was shutting down whenever I'd turn the ignition key from "off" to "on." Shutting down, as in the clock reset to Zero with a blinking hour numeral. I went out to the car Sunday morning with my Bentley and multimeter, and the thing fired up and idled smoothly, with no symptom of the prior trouble. I scratched my head a bit and took it out for an extended test drive. About 8 miles into the circuit, I experienced a sudden and extreme loss of power. I finally disengaged the clutch and the car stalled immediately. I let out the clutch again (at about 45 mph) and in a fraction of a second the car lurched and resumed running smoothly. After that it purred for another 20 miles. The fuel pump relay is brand new. The fuel pump is a salvage part but seems pretty quiet -- although I can hear it hum when I turn the ignition on, even when the car was running poorly. The on/off nature of the condition has me thinking switch or relay, but I'm pretty much stumped. I don't want to use the car for my 40-mile second shift commute with this hanging over my head. Does anyody have any suggestions? Thanks, Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis From bjturlington at hotmail.com Sun Jan 5 19:17:21 2003 From: bjturlington at hotmail.com (B. Turlington) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Audi/VW FS Message-ID: [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] I'm really sorry about the WOB. I will certainly post these items on the audifans site. I haven't been really active on the list of late. Sorry for the inconvience.... Robert >From: urq >To: quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: Audi/VW FS >Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 16:00:33 -0800 > > > > > watch out for listcop huw powell- he has a fit when you post cars FS to > > the list... > > just a fyi > >... I am finding it less and less possible to keep up with this list anymore >so I don't know any details on what prompted this and other responses to FS >posters, but from what I've seen over time I'd say that Huw has been pretty >reasonable about when he calls people on the carpet for selling things on >the main list. To me, someone posting one car for sale, or a single post >with several cars in it is not a sign of someone using the list to create >income for themselves ... which is when I start to have problems with FS ads >on the list. There are folks who seem to be on the list to sell stuff ... >when you look at their list posts a significant percentage of them are FS >ads ... to my mind this is abuse of the list. > >As others have noted there is a Marketplace on the audifans site ... I know >that I monitor the list for items for sale, and actually have been fairly >active there. If someone doesn't think anyone looks there because they >don't get responses to their ads it may well be that they are trying to sell >things that noone wants ... or they are asking too much for what they have >for sale ... > >Steve Buchholz >San Jose, CA (USA) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The new MSN 8 is here: Try it free* for 2 months[1] ===References:=== 1. http://g.msn.com/8HMOEN/2018 From laraa at sympatico.ca Mon Jan 6 00:23:15 2003 From: laraa at sympatico.ca (Louis-Alain Richard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: MM actual ride is... Message-ID: <000001c2b543$b713a730$680bfea9@LARAA> ... just read an article on Michele Mouton at http://www.caradisiac.com/php/actu_enq/inter/sportif/mg_1509_mouton.php and the dear lady is still faithful to her former employer; she now rides in an Audi Cabriolet. Louis-Alain From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Jan 6 00:24:23 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: 4000q has an "episode" Message-ID: <15c.1965a246.2b4a6d07@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Russ, I had a very similar probelm once, caused by a brand new fuel pump relay. Juste couse its new does't mean its good. Try jumping your relay with a wire with a switch in it. Once the car dies, hit the switch, jump the relay bypassing it, if the car fires right up you know what the problem was. HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/5/2003 9:12:05 PM Pacific Standard Time, rinard@execpc.com writes: > The fuel pump relay is brand new. The fuel pump is a salvage part but seems > pretty quiet -- although I can hear it hum when I turn the ignition on, > even > when the car was running poorly. The on/off nature of the condition has me > thinking switch or relay, but I'm pretty much stumped. I don't want to use > the car for my 40-mile second shift commute with this hanging over my head. > Does anyody have any suggestions? From posne at cts.com Sun Jan 5 21:25:16 2003 From: posne at cts.com (mike posner) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: AC problem Message-ID: <002b01c2b544$0014ec50$260578d8@S0027245160> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Airflow stops when I accelerate(come on boost). Sounds like vacuum valve getting pressure instead of vacuum? Is this a one way valve malfunction, and if so, where is it located ? Mike Posner. -- From davidt at opentext.com Mon Jan 6 00:31:09 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Head transplant update Message-ID: Hi all, As of 10pm EST, the near head is in place ready to be torqued down, the dizzy is in, the exaust manifold is on. The upper rad hose connections are back on. So, making good progress. Hopefully, sometime tomorrow the engine will be roaring back to life, much happier than before. So far, I have spent 9 hours on this. Not bad at all IMHO. :-) More to come later. David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From rinard at execpc.com Mon Jan 6 00:00:18 2003 From: rinard at execpc.com (Russ Maki) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: 4000q has an "episode" References: <15c.1965a246.2b4a6d07@aol.com> Message-ID: <002501c2b548$e4639740$867acfa9@execpc.com> Thanks, Javad. I have a couple old FP relays I saved from the scrapyard for emergencies -- I tested them satisfactorily in happier times. Perhaps I should keep one in the trunk just in case. OR, just swap them out now... I was pondering the possibility that the ignition switch might be on the way out, since the weird trip computer clock shutdown that occurred when I turned the ignition on coincided with the barely-running condition off the road. But the clock *didn't* reset when I lost power on my test drive. Hmm. Well, I'll see what happens the next time Mr. Intermittent Condition rears his ugly head. I'm at least pretty convinced that it's a fuel rather than ignition problem, as the spark seems strong and the engine pulls well throughout the rpm range. Russ Maki Ixonia, Wis ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:24 PM Subject: Re: 4000q has an "episode" > Russ, I had a very similar probelm once, caused by a brand new fuel pump > relay. Juste couse its new does't mean its good. Try jumping your relay > with a wire with a switch in it. Once the car dies, hit the switch, jump > the relay bypassing it, if the car fires right up you know what the problem > was. > > HTH, > Javad > From ScottyCBoy at aol.com Mon Jan 6 02:04:36 2003 From: ScottyCBoy at aol.com (ScottyCBoy@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Items for sale.. Pre Spring Cleaning.... Message-ID: <110.1e1e4c83.2b4a8484@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Guys, i've got to thin the fleet here are some items I have for sale..... Not to sure If it's cosher to post to the list but here goes anyways... All parts located in Corpus Christi TX.. 1990 Audi 200 turbo engine complete with fuel system and ECU... 350.00 198K miles runs excellent 1987 audi 5000 turbo engine 153K miles ran good three years ago complete swap with ECU and harnesses... 250.00 Also have two 200's that are mostly complete... Auto trans possibly good 200.00 G60 brake calipers.. 50/set I need to get rid of some of this stuff to make way for some new iron.... Scott From willng at netzero.net Mon Jan 6 02:21:41 2003 From: willng at netzero.net (William Ng) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: AC problem In-Reply-To: <002b01c2b544$0014ec50$260578d8@S0027245160> Message-ID: <4.3.2.7.2.20030106012753.03d48570@pop.netzero.net> At 12:25 AM 1/6/2003, you wrote: >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Airflow stops when I accelerate(come on boost). Sounds like >vacuum valve getting pressure instead of vacuum? Is this a one way valve >malfunction, and if so, where is it located ? Mike Posner. >-- I had the same symptoms. I checked my check valve, the vacuum reservoir, and vacuum lines to the cruise control. None were the culprit. Turns out it was the vacuum line to the motor for the fresh air/recirc flap. The poorly designed plastic mount had cracked releasing the vacuum motor and dislodging the vacuum line. This was the source of the vacuum leak. I fixed it with 30-lb test nylon wire ties. The vacuum motor consists of a rigid half, and a half with the diaphram. These snap together, and at those locations, there's enough space to create 4 loops. I used stainless steel guy wire of the appropriate gauge. With 2 wire ties through these loops, you anchor the motor back in its original position. Simply pull up the slack around the 2 plastic frame 'beams'. When done, it's mounted firmly and permanently in place. It took about 1/2 hour to do. And given the lack of space in there, it's much easier than the Audi TSB and kit which requires mounting a metal plate by drilling into the plastic frame with self tapping screws. BTW, this method can also apply to re-attaching the spring for the recirc flap should your's be broken. HTH, Will 1990 200q w/190k miles. -- Regards, Will ================================================================ William Ng....................................willng@netzero.net ---------------------------------------------------------------- "Never knock on death's door, ring the doorbell and run away..." "he just hates that." ================================================================ From Stpndsmnn at aol.com Mon Jan 6 02:32:07 2003 From: Stpndsmnn at aol.com (Stpndsmnn@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: SQ hood Group buy???? Message-ID: <122.1ceaace1.2b4a8af7@aol.com> Was there a Group buy on SQ replica hoods a while ago?? Anybody end up with an extra SQ hood?? I am in need of a hood and thinking I may like to upgrade but not for TAP's $695.. Anyone with some kind of a lead or info please e-mail me. Thanks Matt Kramer ' 83 CGTt From human747 at attbi.com Mon Jan 6 02:33:56 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands References: <0135A05C.2BF5CC4D.1128B6C9@aol.com> <025601c2b535$0d179a60$9b575244@DDGCH321> Message-ID: <3E193164.1F65343C@attbi.com> > Nokian Hakka 1 - they are amazing. The grip unbelievealby well and they > last a long time (probably 6 or 7 seasons). I have to second that... although I don't know about the longevity. I put a set I picked up used on my 90Q, and I am completely stunned by their performance in poor traction situations. They not only "go", but they stop well, too. Even more, they corner. The only drawback is, they make it really hard to do donuts! And guess what? We're getting a lot of opportunities to appreciate them this winter. I put them on 12/24, and I think they've seen dry pavement less than half the time since then. Perfect timing... -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From human747 at attbi.com Mon Jan 6 02:38:26 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: odd running/CTS/mystery plug References: <184.14b0a566.2b4a1e70@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E193272.DBF15BB8@attbi.com> > On my 82 Coupe CIS it has always cranked for 6-8 seconds when cold before > starting. Then it idles a little rough. Once warmed up it cranks for 1 > second then runs well. > > I'm in FL and it has gotten colder then normal(down in mid 30's). Anyway, if > I go out on a 35F morning and start it, it fires the instant I hit the > ignition switch. Then it has the most beautiful idle, and runs purrfect. > But, if it was a 45 or above morning, thats when it crank 6-8 seconds before > firing. Thoughts? Audis often seem to like to start really well when it is quite cold, and not quite so happily when it is half warm out. General tune up issues might affect that sluggish cold weather start - remembering that your normal "cold" weather is pretty mild up here. Your 35 degree temp is just beginning to enter into "slightly cool out." > I unplugged the CTS and will see if it has any effect, there was some mention > in archives. what is a "CTS"? > What is the female plug for right by the oxy sensor wiring. Part # 171 971 > 999A > I get 8.2 volts across terminals when running...what does this mean? What I think you are referring to is the test port for the frequency valve duty cycle. small white connector (may be yellowed by now) with two round female connectors in it? Don't measure voltage there, you measure duty cycle, or how much the valve is "on" as a percentage. Stuff about that is here, along with some photos, if that helps: http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/timing.htm (middle menu on left of main page, under "tuning CIS Jetronic") -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/ http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From j.d.larson at verizon.net Mon Jan 6 08:02:41 2003 From: j.d.larson at verizon.net (John Larson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle Message-ID: <01a001c2b59d$a9a65b60$3801a8c0@cdp350> The plastic ends aren't available as replacement parts. You have to buy the rods. The PN is on the cups, but is meaningless. John From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Jan 6 10:05:45 2003 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Test (sorry) Message-ID: <000101c2b595$16a56d90$6400a8c0@newpc> From mdg3369 at newtsplace.com Sun Jan 5 22:14:01 2003 From: mdg3369 at newtsplace.com (Michael Gough) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: MM actual ride is... Message-ID: > ... just read an article on Michele Mouton at > http://www.caradisiac.com/php/actu_enq/inter/sportif/mg_1509_mouton.php > and the dear lady is still faithful to her former employer; she now > rides in an Audi Cabriolet. > > Louis-Alain You'd ride in an Audi Cabriolet too if Audi gave it to you! Mike From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 11:35:53 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: O2 signal wire? Message-ID: <1041870953.3e19b0698aba9@webmail.the-wire.com> Patient: 1989 90 quattro Anyone know which wire in the stock connector is the signal wire from teh O2 sensor? The harness has three wires, and I need the signal wire for an air- fuel mixture gauge. -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Jan 6 11:47:00 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: O2 signal wire? Message-ID: <102.22f8a1f3.2b4b0d04@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ITs the black wire that goes into the green, single pin connector. HTH, Javad In a message dated 1/6/2003 8:43:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, spokes@the-wire.com writes: > Anyone know which wire in the stock connector is the signal wire from teh O2 > sensor? The harness has three wires, and I need the signal wire for an > air- > fuel mixture gauge. > > -Dave From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 11:51:27 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: O2 signal wire? In-Reply-To: <102.22f8a1f3.2b4b0d04@aol.com> References: <102.22f8a1f3.2b4b0d04@aol.com> Message-ID: <1041871887.3e19b40feed38@webmail.the-wire.com> That was quick! Thanks Javad! -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting JShadzi@aol.com: > ITs the black wire that goes into the green, single pin connector. > > HTH, > Javad > > In a message dated 1/6/2003 8:43:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, > spokes@the-wire.com writes: > > > Anyone know which wire in the stock connector is the signal wire from teh > O2 > > sensor? The harness has three wires, and I need the signal wire for an > > air- > > fuel mixture gauge. > > > > -Dave > > From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 11:53:37 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands In-Reply-To: <3E193164.1F65343C@attbi.com> References: <0135A05C.2BF5CC4D.1128B6C9@aol.com> <025601c2b535$0d179a60$9b575244@DDGCH321> <3E193164.1F65343C@attbi.com> Message-ID: <1041872017.3e19b49179a39@webmail.the-wire.com> The hakka 1's ARE amazing!! I'll 'third' that. If you can't find/afford them, however, check out the "Nordman" winter tire. It's the hakka 1 tread (mold purchased from Nokia) made in Indonesia. I had two great seasons on them, only to blow two rallying. Can't find 'em here in the great white north now. Sigh. -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Huw Powell : > > > Nokian Hakka 1 - they are amazing. The grip unbelievealby well and they > > last a long time (probably 6 or 7 seasons). > > I have to second that... although I don't know about the longevity. > > I put a set I picked up used on my 90Q, and I am completely stunned by > their performance in poor traction situations. They not only "go", but > they stop well, too. Even more, they corner. The only drawback is, > they make it really hard to do donuts! > > And guess what? We're getting a lot of opportunities to appreciate them > this winter. I put them on 12/24, and I think they've seen dry pavement > less than half the time since then. Perfect timing... > > -- > Huw Powell > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/ > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > From rdeis at io.com Mon Jan 6 10:58:51 2003 From: rdeis at io.com (Robert Deis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle In-Reply-To: <01a001c2b59d$a9a65b60$3801a8c0@cdp350> Message-ID: On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, John Larson wrote: > The plastic ends aren't available as replacement parts. You have to buy the > rods. The PN is on the cups, but is meaningless. And they are $30 for the door latch and $20 for the lock, US. However, a 4.7 mm ball/socket joint happens to be a very common thing in radio control car suspensions. I got a handful of them from my local hobby shop for $7. Required a little bit of fabbing to get the new sockets to thread onto the rod (R/C parts aren't so long as these..) but it wasn't difficult. I can provide details and pictures if need be. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 From Charles.DePenning at EmersonProcess.com Mon Jan 6 11:03:42 2003 From: Charles.DePenning at EmersonProcess.com (DePenning, Charles [FRCO/MTN]) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: broken flywheel pin should've used 2084 Message-ID: <619264F5DAF02344BC3B7F279A4742450284ACD3@MXSFRCOMTN1.mt.frco.com> I discovered a method/tool to use to hold the crankshaft in place way back when I did my first t-belt job on my 83 5kt, and I have used it probably 10 times on my sucessive Audis and other's as well. In the vein of simpler is better, I use a "wonderbar"- the prybar/nail remover type of tool that you can get at any home center for about $5- $10. I just place the end with the sharp 90 degree bend in the harmonic balancer, resting on the side of the cast lug in the i.d. of the pulley bore. There is enough room to get the socket into the remaining space, which also has the benefit of holding the bar in place. The other end rests on the front motor mount/anti torsion device or whatever Audi calls it-the same thing the 2084 uses to react the torque. Works great, both for loosening and tightening. Sometimes twists the wonderbar a little bit, but nothing a BFH won't fix. Much easier and foolproof than the bolt through the bellhousing, 5th gear with parking brake business, I think. And cheep! I took a picture yesterday of this setup while doing the t-belt on my '89 90q, if anybody is interested. Got a new digital camera! Charley DePenning '90 CQ; '89 90q; '84 4kq; '83 5kt > Well, I tried to use the controversial bolt through the bellhousing > on my 200q, only to break the tdc timing pin. I ended up buying 2084 > anyway, and what was left of the pin broke off 200 miles after my > upper end rebuild. > > Anyway, I'm looking to get a shop to weld up some new material in the > shape of a pin through the starter hole. I might try Chris Semple's > idea of buying the pin from a dealer and extracting the stub of the > old one. > > Lesson learned: I'll be another $150 in the hole with the repair of > the pin. I paid $68 for 2084 from Zelenda. My lesson learned is to > not take anymore shortcuts and buy the proper tools. 2084 was cheap. > A flywheel job isn't . Anyway, there were no holes at 9 o'clock on > the bellhousing except for the observation holes for the pin. I would > just buy the proper tools from now on. > > Anyone repair their pin with success? Any BTDT's? From nokian at aaahawk.com Mon Jan 6 11:08:15 2003 From: nokian at aaahawk.com (Greg Galinsky) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands References: <1041872017.3e19b49179a39@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: <3E19B7FF.000011.13623@vaio> -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Most of the Nordman that I have seen have been of the old Hak 10 tread style They are somewhat more difficult to come by. Nokian North America does not stock them; dealers have to generally get them direct by the container load. Greg Galinsky G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Dave Hord Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 01:39:09 PM To: human747@attbi.com Cc: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands The hakka 1's ARE amazing!! I'll 'third' that. If you can't find/afford them, however, check out the "Nordman" winter tire. It's the hakka 1 tread (mold purchased from Nokia) made in Indonesia. I had two great seasons on them, only to blow two rallying. Can't find 'em here in the great white north now. Sigh. -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Huw Powell : > > > Nokian Hakka 1 - they are amazing. The grip unbelievealby well and they > > last a long time (probably 6 or 7 seasons). > > I have to second that... although I don't know about the longevity. > > I put a set I picked up used on my 90Q, and I am completely stunned by > their performance in poor traction situations. They not only "go", but > they stop well, too. Even more, they corner. The only drawback is, > they make it really hard to do donuts! > > And guess what? We're getting a lot of opportunities to appreciate them > this winter. I put them on 12/24, and I think they've seen dry pavement > less than half the time since then. Perfect timing... > > -- > Huw Powell > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/ > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > . -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 12:11:08 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands In-Reply-To: <3E19B7FF.000011.13623@vaio> References: <1041872017.3e19b49179a39@webmail.the-wire.com> <3E19B7FF.000011.13623@vaio> Message-ID: <1041873068.3e19b8aceed39@webmail.the-wire.com> Perhaps I've mixed up my 1's and 0's. I had thought they were Hakka 1's...but I think you may be correct, perhaps they are 10s. Stupid Binary system ;-) -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Greg Galinsky : > Most of the Nordman that I have seen have been of the old Hak 10 tread > style > They are somewhat more difficult to come by. Nokian North America does > not > stock them; dealers have to generally get them direct by the container > load. > > Greg Galinsky From nokian at aaahawk.com Mon Jan 6 11:20:24 2003 From: nokian at aaahawk.com (Greg Galinsky) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands References: <1041873068.3e19b8aceed39@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: <3E19BAD8.000017.13623@vaio> -- -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The Hak 10 were a good deep snow tire; a bit on the noisy side on dry roads and not as good a handling on dry roads as the Hak 1. The Hak 1 has a higher pinch bead in the sidewall; giving a slightly more ridgid sidewall. Have not driven the Nordman; but assume them to have most of the Hak 10 properties. The Nordman does not have Nokian's rubber chemistry; they did not release that to the Indonesian manufactuer. They came up with sample tires and checked with Finland if they met the standards. Greg G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Dave Hord Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 01:47:25 PM To: Greg Galinsky Cc: human747@attbi.com; quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands Perhaps I've mixed up my 1's and 0's. I had thought they were Hakka 1's.. but I think you may be correct, perhaps they are 10s. Stupid Binary system ;-) -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Greg Galinsky : > Most of the Nordman that I have seen have been of the old Hak 10 tread > style > They are somewhat more difficult to come by. Nokian North America does > not > stock them; dealers have to generally get them direct by the container > load. > > Greg Galinsky . -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From brett at cloud9.net Mon Jan 6 12:48:04 2003 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: MM actual ride is... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 10:14 PM -0800 1/5/03, Michael Gough wrote: >You'd ride in an Audi Cabriolet too if Audi gave it to you! ...And conversely, if Michelle Mouton drove for your car company for years with such success, you'd give her a free lease... Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From DieMarthaDie at aol.com Mon Jan 6 12:51:21 2003 From: DieMarthaDie at aol.com (DieMarthaDie@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Audi "Pikes Peak" the Audi "Cayenne"? Message-ID: <2F10BEC0.4BBF94E1.1128B6C9@aol.com> www.audiworld.com/news/03/naias/ It appears that Audi has dropped a new concept at the Detroit Auto Show! Not to be confused with the Cayenne developed by Porsche and VW, I guess, the "Pikes Peak" is a concept running the RS6 V8 pushed over 500hp and a 0-6 of 4.7 sec. The news report on Audiworld is basically the press release, but it's interesting... although the Sport-Utility-Car is still an ungainly ugly idea whether is wears a Porsche or Audi or VW or other badge. John 83CGT 90V8Q From britt at fortcollins.com Mon Jan 6 11:00:13 2003 From: britt at fortcollins.com (Britt Crowell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle References: <20030106161630.3091.95630.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <003401c2b5ad$76466610$09d3a2cd@CROWELLHP6100> Look for Rocket City Ball links, I use them on my helicopters. Britt Crowell Crowell Consulting Inc. 970-484-4995 > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 21:55:13 -0500 > To: "Joseph Rae" , > From: Kneale Brownson > Subject: Re: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for > plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle > > Someone reported recently they found substitute parts for those plastic > sockets at a radio-control model shop. Maybe you can find the posting > through a Google search on Audifans.com ??? > > At 02:43 PM 01/05/2003 -0800, Joseph Rae wrote: > >Hey Everybody, > > > >I need the part number for the little white plastic sockets that clip > >onto the door handle of the 5000cstq for the locking mechanism and for > >the door striker mechanism. Both of mine on the drivers side have broken > >the little clip that locks it around the ball joint so I can only get 2 > >or 3 good opens out of the door, before having to take the handle off > >again. > > > > > >Thanks in advance > > > >Joe > > From lindgre at online.no Mon Jan 6 19:04:57 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Audi "Pikes Peak" the Audi "Cayenne"? References: <2F10BEC0.4BBF94E1.1128B6C9@aol.com> Message-ID: <3E19C549.2080904@online.no> As reported on VWVortex, it is built on the same frame as the Touareg/Cayenne. Touareg frame picture: http://www.vwvortex.com/news/01_03/NAIAS/touareg/t3.jpg PerL 87 Cq DieMarthaDie@aol.com wrote: >www.audiworld.com/news/03/naias/ > >It appears that Audi has dropped a new concept at the Detroit Auto Show! Not to be confused with the Cayenne developed by Porsche and VW, I guess, the "Pikes Peak" is a concept running the RS6 V8 pushed over 500hp and a 0-6 of 4.7 sec. The news report on Audiworld is basically the press release, but it's interesting... although the Sport-Utility-Car is still an ungainly ugly idea whether is wears a Porsche or Audi or VW or other badge. > >John >83CGT >90V8Q > > > From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 13:09:51 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands In-Reply-To: <3E19BAD8.000017.13623@vaio> References: <1041873068.3e19b8aceed39@webmail.the-wire.com> <3E19BAD8.000017.13623@vaio> Message-ID: <1041876591.3e19c66f0e37a@webmail.the-wire.com> Greg, You are correct! The Nordman is a Hak 10, and they definetly don't have the Nokia rubber chemistry. But, then again, they last longer ;-) -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Greg Galinsky : > The Hak 10 were a good deep snow tire; a bit on the noisy side on dry roads > and not as good a handling on dry roads as the Hak 1. The Hak 1 has a > higher pinch bead in the sidewall; giving a slightly more ridgid sidewall. > Have not driven the Nordman; but assume them to have most of the Hak 10 > properties. The Nordman does not have Nokian's rubber chemistry; they did > not release that to the Indonesian manufactuer. They came up with sample > tires and checked with Finland if they met the standards. > > Greg > G & G Service > > -------Original Message------- > > From: Dave Hord > Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 01:47:25 PM > To: Greg Galinsky > Cc: human747@attbi.com; quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands > > Perhaps I've mixed up my 1's and 0's. I had thought they were Hakka 1's.. > but > I think you may be correct, perhaps they are 10s. > > Stupid Binary system ;-) > > -Dave > --------------------------------------------------- > 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... > Roll cage shots available at: > http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm > > > Quoting Greg Galinsky : > > > Most of the Nordman that I have seen have been of the old Hak 10 tread > > style > > They are somewhat more difficult to come by. Nokian North America does > > not > > stock them; dealers have to generally get them direct by the container > > load. > > > > > > Greg Galinsky > > . From iin10ded at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 18:27:27 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. Message-ID: so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. what/where does the "ur" designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old s4/s6's ? ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' or something. i saw a red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive never read an exact explanation of this.. thanx! nappy yew hear! jim _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From clerick44 at earthlink.net Mon Jan 6 12:11:29 2003 From: clerick44 at earthlink.net (jesse) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: just a thought.. Message-ID: <002001c2b5b1$f23a96c0$eae0020a@ours> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have the same problem that some of you do with the water temp droppin= g at highway speeds then coming back up at idle. I too have shielded the e= ngine bay to keep the wind away from those bits. It has worked well, BUT i= t still bugs me that this probably shouldnt happen. I would prefer to trea= t the problem and not symptoms. Anyone have any ideas what might be the ac= tual cause? Thanks, Jesse -- From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 6 10:34:33 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030106183433.29744.qmail@web20007.mail.yahoo.com> --- j fizz wrote: > so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. > what/where does the "ur" > designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old > s4/s6's ? > > ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' > or something. i saw a > red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive > never read an exact > explanation of this.. "ur" is the German word for "original" I believe. ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From rizov_d at shaw.ca Mon Jan 6 11:39:12 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: ECU Message-ID: <4721ba470d5d.470d5d4721ba@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] Hi, CIS-E, When in open loop does the ECU gets in preset values for differential pressure regulator (8-10 mA) , with no fluctuations? Thx, Dobby From j.d.larson at verizon.net Mon Jan 6 10:42:04 2003 From: j.d.larson at verizon.net (John Larson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle References: Message-ID: <001801c2b5b3$4f652f80$84424104@dslverizon.net> The pair of rods lists for under 15 bucks per door. I don't know where the $50 number comes from. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Deis" To: "John Larson" Cc: ; Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 8:58 AM Subject: Re: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle > On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, John Larson wrote: > > > The plastic ends aren't available as replacement parts. You have to buy the > > rods. The PN is on the cups, but is meaningless. > > And they are $30 for the door latch and $20 for the lock, US. > > However, a 4.7 mm ball/socket joint happens to be a very common thing in > radio control car suspensions. I got a handful of them from my local > hobby shop for $7. > > Required a little bit of fabbing to get the new sockets to thread onto the > rod (R/C parts aren't so long as these..) but it wasn't difficult. I can > provide details and pictures if need be. > > -- > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law > MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." > rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 > > From lindgre at online.no Mon Jan 6 19:45:07 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. References: Message-ID: <3E19CEB3.50303@online.no> Ur is often used together with another word in the German language to descript the original. As an example, they can say "die Urtext" as a way of describing the original version of a written text, or "Die Ureinwohner" to describe the ancient native settlements of human beings. Thus, it also began in Germany, that one wrote "die Urquattro" when describing the original quattro, as an effort to distinguish it from the newer family members, the 80 quattro, 100 quattro and 200 quattro. PerL (who knows a bit German) 87 Cq (Urcoupe quattro) j fizz wrote: > so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. what/where does the > "ur" > designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old s4/s6's ? > > ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' or something. i > saw a > red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive never read an exact > explanation of this.. > > thanx! nappy yew hear! > > jim > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > > > From iceisit at earthlink.net Mon Jan 6 13:54:40 2003 From: iceisit at earthlink.net (Ice Cat ^. .^ ~) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Power steering . . . Message-ID: Hi Happy New Year to everyone. This is the second car which the has happened with within a year. Power steering is much stiffer than it should be. The power steering container holds fluid. First it happened on the '88 5000. That was my husband's car for about a year. We put that away for a while in the garage. So we took out the '87 5000 for the winter which has great heated seats. My husband drove that car last year for about a month and now I am driving it. The stiffness didn't seem to bother my husband on his car, but we both need to drive this one and I have a perpetual torn tendon in my right shoulder and it is really aggravating the situation. The idle stabilizer valve needs to be replaced . . . would have have anything to do with it? We are shopping to find the cheapest idle stabilizer right now. Does sitting allow dirt to form and clog something in the power steering/power brake system? Or is there some other sensor which we need to look at? Could it be from a vacuum leak, by chance? Thanks ! Fay '89 Audi 200 Turbo (No Q) Automatic '88 Audi 5000 S Auto '87 Audi 5000 S Auto http://home.earthlink.net/~iceisit/ From rdeis at io.com Mon Jan 6 12:59:46 2003 From: rdeis at io.com (Robert Deis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle In-Reply-To: <001801c2b5b3$4f652f80$84424104@dslverizon.net> Message-ID: On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, John Larson wrote: > The pair of rods lists for under 15 bucks per door. I don't know where the > $50 number comes from. That's what my dealer wanted. For $15 for the pair I'd have gotten them... I assumed it was dealer-only so I didn't call Rod.. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 From pizzoman at yahoo.com Mon Jan 6 11:17:11 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: just a thought.. In-Reply-To: <002001c2b5b1$f23a96c0$eae0020a@ours> Message-ID: <20030106191711.44067.qmail@web20807.mail.yahoo.com> 1994 S4 here. Same thing happens to me and just did the t-stat for elimination purposes. Upon brainstorming with a fellow audiot, he hinted that it may be the water temp sender? Anyone BTDT? Yeah, this bugs me, also, please be an easier (read: cheaper) fix than my recently bent control arm on the left front. (ouch.) Joe --- jesse wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I have the same problem that some of you do with > the water temp dropping at highway speeds then > coming back up at idle. I too have shielded the > engine bay to keep the wind away from those bits. > It has worked well, BUT it still bugs me that this > probably shouldnt happen. I would prefer to treat > the problem and not symptoms. Anyone have any ideas > what might be the actual cause? > > Thanks, > Jesse > -- > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From j.d.larson at verizon.net Mon Jan 6 11:16:10 2003 From: j.d.larson at verizon.net (John Larson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle References: Message-ID: <005901c2b5b8$12e36ea0$84424104@dslverizon.net> That's dealer list, and that's where I get them. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Deis" To: "John Larson" Cc: ; Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:59 AM Subject: Re: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle > On Mon, 6 Jan 2003, John Larson wrote: > > > The pair of rods lists for under 15 bucks per door. I don't know where the > > $50 number comes from. > > That's what my dealer wanted. For $15 for the pair I'd have gotten > them... > > I assumed it was dealer-only so I didn't call Rod.. > > -- > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > Rob Deis "Let the people know beforehand what the law > MiB3347 is and what they are to expect." > rdeis@io.com -- 18th Congress, Rec. 75 > > From Peterl at Warn.com Mon Jan 6 11:20:22 2003 From: Peterl at Warn.com (Lines Peter) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Audis running cold Message-ID: I think by putting a cover over the sensors to shield them from the wind, you are treating the root of the problem, not a symptom. I don't know what model you drive, but Audi originally put a similar type of shrouding behind the grill to direct air through the radiator, not onto the engine. Unfortunately, it was commonly made of fibrous material (fancy cardboard) and usually rots away after a few years... I found that by duplicating the original shrouding, there are several benefits. 1. Better flow through the radiator 2. Lack of false signals from various temp senders 3. Cleaner engine (especially important when changing spark plugs on an I-5 motor!) Peter Lines From Greg.Roa at Cinergy.COM Mon Jan 6 14:24:15 2003 From: Greg.Roa at Cinergy.COM (Roa, Greg) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: just a thought.. Message-ID: <03DEE71E2CDCB74A8BDD7194E349A51406D562@excincybe03.cinergy.com> Let me venture a guess. I'm willing to bet that you don't have a belly pan on your car. In addition, some of the masonite shielding in the engine bay is likely deteriorated or missing. Not saying there is a problem with your car, but I've never seen a 4kq with a belly pan, and most of the time some of the shields that came with the car have seen better days. I would think that the engine bay was set up originally by Audi so that the belly pan and shielding kept air flow at a minimum around the engine while driving, (and therefore the area around the sensors) while maximizing the flow through the radiator itself. I'd say if you really want to fix the problem, restore all of the shielding to it's original condition, and replace the belly pan. If you do go this route, let me know how it turns out. As for me, I've got too many other projects on this car, so I'm going the easy route and making a shield. Good Luck! Greg Roa Cincinnati, OH 86' 4kcsq 93' 90 CS 83' 944 From: "jesse" To: Subject: just a thought.. Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 12:11:29 -0600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I have the same problem that some of you do with the water temp droppin= g at highway speeds then coming back up at idle. I too have shielded the e= ngine bay to keep the wind away from those bits. It has worked well, BUT i= t still bugs me that this probably shouldnt happen. I would prefer to trea= t the problem and not symptoms. Anyone have any ideas what might be the ac= tual cause? Thanks, Jesse From pizzoman at yahoo.com Mon Jan 6 11:34:35 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Alright, who's the sick ba$tard that stole my noisy pads? Message-ID: <20030106193435.48043.qmail@web20807.mail.yahoo.com> Well, after leaving my car buried in the snow in queens for the past 2 weeks, I finally picked it up today. To my surprise, the squeal of the pagid oranges is completely gone. Haven't had the chance to really warm them up yet, but they are no longer squealing at low speeds. Could my mechanic have taken them and replaced them with textars? ;-) He sorted out an alignment issue I was having. (Left control arm, bushings, etc.) Could this elimination of vibration have removed my annoying squeal? I'm going to pull the wheels as the pagids are instantly recognisable (They're Home Depot Orange=). My guess is: Vibration is gone, car tracks semi-straight, so pads are quieter? All of this rain/snow we've had in the northeast somehow built up rust on the rotor that the pads are having a hard time transferring material to the rotor. No rust is visible. Pedal effort is still stiff, we'll see what happens. Joe __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From human747 at attbi.com Mon Jan 6 14:54:58 2003 From: human747 at attbi.com (Huw Powell) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: ECU References: <4721ba470d5d.470d5d4721ba@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <3E19DF12.22F47AD9@attbi.com> > CIS-E, > > When in open loop does the ECU gets in preset values for differential pressure > regulator (8-10 mA) , with no fluctuations? Yes, basically. In open loop the current is fixed by the ecu - when the engine is cold, it is higher than that, though, to provide enrichment. When the WOT switch is closed it is also in open loop, with a slight enrichment to help you accelerate. Perhaps there is also a default for warm engine and no OXS signal, but there might not be, since that is not a "normal" operating condition. The fluctuation in closed loop is due to the ECU constantly adjusting the mixture slightly in response to the OXS signal, so the engine is always veering a tiny tiny bit rich or lean - but very close to perfect mixture. The later CIS E3 cars fluctuate around 0 mA, so in the case of no power to the ECU, they are capable of limping along ok - though not very good at starting when cold. You might want to do some searching of the archives, as I'm sure at times myself and others have written detailed explanations of how CIS-lambda systems work; there is also my web site which might be helpful. -- Huw Powell http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi http://www.humanthoughts.org/ From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 6 12:13:01 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Audis running cold In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030106201301.62825.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> --- Lines Peter wrote: > I think by putting a cover over the sensors to > shield them from the wind, > you are treating the root of the problem, not a > symptom. I don't know what > model you drive, but Audi originally put a similar > type of shrouding behind > the grill to direct air through the radiator, not > onto the engine. > Unfortunately, it was commonly made of fibrous > material (fancy cardboard) > and usually rots away after a few years... > I found that by duplicating the original shrouding, > there are several > benefits. 1. Better flow through the radiator 2. > Lack of false signals > from various temp senders 3. Cleaner engine > (especially important when > changing spark plugs on an I-5 motor!) Let me tell you about my new favorite tool, my pop rivet gun. I've been replacing all the plastic shrouding that I've ripped out over the past few years with some thin gauge anodized aluminum sheet metal. Here's part of the work http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/stage3/front.jpg For around $25 you can get the gun, rivets, and some aluminum, and make all kinds of good stuff! Later, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From clerick44 at earthlink.net Mon Jan 6 14:19:01 2003 From: clerick44 at earthlink.net (jesse) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again Message-ID: <001401c2b5c0$dfb8e560$eae0020a@ours> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] The shrouding makes sense, i'll have to find out which pieces are missi= ng since you were right, i dont have a belly pan. I appreciate the input, = i hate to jury rig things if i can help it. The OE shielding seems like a = great place to start. On an unrelated note, i was poking around a web page that showed what a= ppeared to be an aftermarket airbox. It replaced the lower half of the fue= l metering unit with a K&N type filter box. Anyone seen this, have any opi= nions? Are there other options? BTW it's on an '86 4KQ -- From lsm6 at northcoast.com Mon Jan 6 12:31:55 2003 From: lsm6 at northcoast.com (Lloyd McClelland) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands Message-ID: <001c01c2b5c2$a81ab280$1813d1d1@pavilion> I 2nd the choice... since the 90 CQ can't use 14" rims( from the 80 q) I put the tires ( 4 studded) Hakkaplitta-1's on the Vanagon Westfalia 2 wheel drive when going in the snow, goes right by SUVs with fake all weather tires ...I can't wait to get some 205/60 15 Hakkaplittas for the CQ ! These are snow trips only tires so I also don't have a good idea on total miles. Lloyd in Eureka, Calif no snow but rain . quattro@audifans.com Date: Monday, January 06, 2003 8:16 AM Subject: Re: Snow Tires: Common vs. Boutique Brands > >> Nokian Hakka 1 - they are amazing. The grip unbelievealby well and they >> last a long time (probably 6 or 7 seasons). > >I have to second that... although I don't know about the longevity. > >I put a set I picked up used on my 90Q, and I am completely stunned by >their performance in poor traction situations. They not only "go", but >they stop well, too. Even more, they corner. The only drawback is, >they make it really hard to do donuts! > >And guess what? We're getting a lot of opportunities to appreciate them >this winter. I put them on 12/24, and I think they've seen dry pavement >less than half the time since then. Perfect timing... > >-- >Huw Powell > >http://www.humanspeakers.com/ > >http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > From ackramer at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 15:27:07 2003 From: ackramer at hotmail.com (Alan Kramer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: broken flywheel pin should've used 2084 Message-ID: 'twas I that had the timing pin problem. I had 5mm of in-tact pin so I sheathed it with a 1/4" roll pin and tack welded it to the flyhweel. ...and I backed the sensor off with a washer under the bolt so the new pin wouldn't break off the sensor or vice versa. I suspect you have no pin left. If you do, try what I did. Epoxy should work fine 'stead of welding. Otherwise, make sure the machine shop leaves 11 mm of pin sticking out of the flywheel when they install the new one (instead of only 5mm). Good luck. Oh, and BTW, you can get at the pin real nice through the starter opening. ----------------------------------- Alan Kramer http://www.geocities.com/audikramer '83 CGT 20vt '86 4kcsq '90 v8q ----------------------------------- _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 15:48:05 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again In-Reply-To: <001401c2b5c0$dfb8e560$eae0020a@ours> References: <001401c2b5c0$dfb8e560$eae0020a@ours> Message-ID: <1041886085.3e19eb854b409@webmail.the-wire.com> > On an unrelated note, i was poking around a web page that showed what > appeared to be an aftermarket airbox. It replaced the lower half of the fuel > metering unit with a K&N type filter box. Anyone seen this, have any > opinions? Are there other options? > > BTW it's on an '86 4KQ > I'm aware of only one option ever available to do this, made by Jamex. It was an aluminum frame that replaced the lower filter box. The filter element was yellow foam as I recall. Can you confirm that you have a foam filter? K&N and others use a cotton filter element that is easily identified by the fact that it's pleated (looks like an accordian). Foam, OTH, is simply smooth foam...no pleats. While both can be oiled for maximum efficiency, a foam filter should NEVER be unoiled. Regardless, foam makes a pretty terrible filter element. It lets more dirt in then paper or cotton, it tears easy, and it can dry out and literally 'chunk' out into the engine. Seen all of 'em in the flesh. I've tried for years to find one of the Jamex units (no longer available), so I could do some testing. It shouldn't be too hard for our factory in Taiwan to make something similar using a cotton element. The only problem (and why I've never really done it) is marketability...there isn't a huge market for this sort of thing. -Dave From iceisit at earthlink.net Mon Jan 6 16:03:08 2003 From: iceisit at earthlink.net (Ice Cat ^. .^ ~) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Power steering . . . In-Reply-To: <7F92F035FC7B114FA37864BD82EE07E46BBA@pegasus.Pegasus.com.com> References: <7F92F035FC7B114FA37864BD82EE07E46BBA@pegasus.Pegasus.com.com> Message-ID: >You may need to change the filter and flush the PS system with new >fluid. That said, the only time I had a tough time steering one of >my Audis is when the rack seals on my old '80 5ks totally blew and I >lost most of the fluid. Unless the idle is so low that the engine >is close to dying would the P.S. be affected. Remember that the ISV >for the '87 (CIS-E III fuel injection) is different from the ISV's >on turbos and CIS-E cars. >Regards, Tony Thanks Tony ! Some of my emails were totally deleted, so if anyone else wrote about power steering, please re-send. If not, that is okay too. Fay '89 Audi 200 Turbo (No Q) Automatic '88 Audi 5000 S Auto '87 Audi 5000 S Auto http://home.earthlink.net/~iceisit/ From mikemk40 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 6 21:32:03 2003 From: mikemk40 at yahoo.com (=?iso-8859-1?q?mike?=) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: just a thought.. In-Reply-To: <002001c2b5b1$f23a96c0$eae0020a@ours> Message-ID: <20030106213203.18558.qmail@web14206.mail.yahoo.com> Not sure if you have a real problem....don't forget that the thermostat sets the water temp when driving and the fan thermal switch sets it when idling and so they can vary mike > I have the same problem that some of you do with > the water temp dropping at highway speeds then > coming back up at idle. I too have shielded the > engine bay to keep the wind away from those bits. > It has worked well, BUT it still bugs me that this > probashouldn'tldnt happen. I would prefer to treat > the problem and not symptoms. Anyone have any ideas > what might be the actual cause? > > Thanks, > Jesse > -- > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Everything you'll ever need on one web page from News and Sport to Email and Music Charts http://uk.my.yahoo.com From zaphod at cansafe.com Mon Jan 6 16:32:56 2003 From: zaphod at cansafe.com (Greville H. Bowles) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again In-Reply-To: <1041886085.3e19eb854b409@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: I am quite interested in this thread because I feel that I need to do something to improve the air intake on my '95 90Q. K&N shows nothing available for my car and I don't really know where else to look. I'm very much a novice at this sort of thing, but it puzzles me that I can't find a generic intake that I can adapt to my car. Is there some engineering and design required to match intake to car, beyond simply making the mounts fit properly? Anyway, I'd like to hear what others have to say about what is available (Canadian sources preferred), what is good and what to avoid. I'm not looking for a super high performance upgrade, simply an improvement to what appears to be a restricted air flow situation. TIA ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Mr. Greville H. Bowles RR 5, Rockwood, Ontario CANADA Phone: (519) 856-0213 E-mail: zaphod@cansafe.com '95 90Q '85 245 DL '83 GS650GL ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Dave Hord Sent: January 6, 2003 3:48 PM To: jesse Cc: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: Thanks again > On an unrelated note, i was poking around a web page that showed what > appeared to be an aftermarket airbox. It replaced the lower half of the fuel > metering unit with a K&N type filter box. Anyone seen this, have any > opinions? Are there other options? > > BTW it's on an '86 4KQ > I'm aware of only one option ever available to do this, made by Jamex. It was an aluminum frame that replaced the lower filter box. The filter element was yellow foam as I recall. Can you confirm that you have a foam filter? K&N and others use a cotton filter element that is easily identified by the fact that it's pleated (looks like an accordian). Foam, OTH, is simply smooth foam...no pleats. While both can be oiled for maximum efficiency, a foam filter should NEVER be unoiled. Regardless, foam makes a pretty terrible filter element. It lets more dirt in then paper or cotton, it tears easy, and it can dry out and literally 'chunk' out into the engine. Seen all of 'em in the flesh. I've tried for years to find one of the Jamex units (no longer available), so I could do some testing. It shouldn't be too hard for our factory in Taiwan to make something similar using a cotton element. The only problem (and why I've never really done it) is marketability...there isn't a huge market for this sort of thing. -Dave From ti at amb.org Mon Jan 6 13:48:36 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again In-Reply-To: from "Greville H. Bowles" at Jan 06, 2003 04:32:56 PM Message-ID: <200301062148.VAA01248@amb.org> Greville H. Bowles writes: > I am quite interested in this thread because I feel that I need to do > something to improve the air intake on my '95 90Q. K&N shows nothing > available for my car and I don't really know where else to look. I'm very > much a novice at this sort of thing, but it puzzles me that I can't find a > generic intake that I can adapt to my car. Is there some engineering and > design required to match intake to car, beyond simply making the mounts fit > properly? For the Audi V6 cars I don't believe that you'd find any gains in the air filter or the air box, unless you're running a *very* modified engine. In fact, lots of people are having problems with K&N filters on late model Motronic-equipped VWs and Audis from the filter oil depositing on the MAF sensor. It's not a mod I'd do to my cars. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From rustywww at ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 6 14:52:46 2003 From: rustywww at ix.netcom.com (Rusty Wafer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: O2 sensor Message-ID: <026901c2b5cd$f31c5a80$e6b4c341@Rustynew> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Where is the best place to get a O2 sensor for my V8 1990. Thanks -- From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 16:59:01 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1041890341.3e19fc2580f6a@webmail.the-wire.com> Greville and the list, While I try to avoid the 'product plugs' to the list...I think it's both appropriate, and answers the question here. Vibrant Performance now has a complete line of Universal Air-Intake Tubes available. These are aluminum pipes suitable for creating air-intake piping, and/or intercooler piping on turbo vehicles. The piping comes in 2", 2.5", 2.75" and 3" Diameters. Each size is produced in a straight section (18" long), 90 degree bends (13" long) and 45 degree bends (15" long). We have silicone sleeves and reducers to joing pieces as well. Sleeves are available in both standard and re-inforced styles. We have stainless steel worm clamps to put it all together, and for where you need vacuum hose we have a number of sizes of silicone hose available: 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 1/4" and 3/8". Silicone hose is available in Blue, Red, Silver and Yellow for Huw...should he be so inclined. If cone filters are your thing we have them in two different styles, as well as a pretty interesting stainless steel filter that I'd personally only use for racing. In the case of some Audi's, the above products can be used to create your own air-intake system. Due to the design of the fuel/metering head in the 10V non turbo engines it's not possible to create an air intake system using the above parts. Well, at least not one that would have any benefit. I'm not familiar enough with the V6 engines, but I know Mik Tip has a cone filter installed in his...so something is certainly possible. Turbo guys such as Javad and Jim Green would know much better then I if they have some use on the turbo cars. Vibrant Products are available from a large number of places in both Canada and the US, just check our website (click distributors at the top) to find out. If you can't find a retailler in your area, you can always purchase from www.driverfx.com. Having said all of the above I must make two key points to answer all the un- air-intake related email I'm about to recieve: 1) It is not my intention to use the list as an advertising board for Vibrant...check the archives, I've maybe mentioned the products three times in the last year. So, stop flaming me for it before you start! (happens every time!) 2) I _really_ would like to put together a Group buy system for Audifans. I don't have the time to ship out to individual listers though...so I need some help. I'm willing to put together a group buy for Audifans listers if I can find enough people who can recieve a large shipment, and then farm it out to individual listers. In exchange for your time I'll set up the pricing so that the 're-shipper' can earn a percentage of the sales. We'll also toss a percentage of the sales over to Dan for running Audifans. If you want to HELP with a group buy...contact me. Otherwise, there is no group buy until you hear otherwise! :-) Greville, I'll look at your V6 engine this thursday at the WT_audifans meet (if you're still coming). If I think we can create something, you can join me one night at the office. I've got all the prototyping equipment for air intakes...so I'm pretty sure we can create something for your car! Besides...I do it for Honda's all the time ;-) -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm From spokes at the-wire.com Mon Jan 6 17:11:22 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: Thanks again In-Reply-To: <200301062148.VAA01248@amb.org> References: <200301062148.VAA01248@amb.org> Message-ID: <1041891082.3e19ff0a79a39@webmail.the-wire.com> FWIW, I've seen some testing on aftermarket filters...oiled vs. not oiled. The difference equals whether or not the oil is pulled into the engine. The amount of 'dust' pulled in is so small it can be considered irrelevant. Regardless...IME, MAF damage only occurs when filters are over-oiled. -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Ti Kan : > Greville H. Bowles writes: > > I am quite interested in this thread because I feel that I need to do > > something to improve the air intake on my '95 90Q. K&N shows nothing > > available for my car and I don't really know where else to look. I'm very > > much a novice at this sort of thing, but it puzzles me that I can't find > a > > generic intake that I can adapt to my car. Is there some engineering and > > design required to match intake to car, beyond simply making the mounts > fit > > properly? > > For the Audi V6 cars I don't believe that you'd find any gains in > the air filter or the air box, unless you're running a *very* modified > engine. In fact, lots of people are having problems with K&N filters > on late model Motronic-equipped VWs and Audis from the filter oil > depositing on the MAF sensor. It's not a mod I'd do to my cars. > > -Ti > 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic > 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp > 1984 5000S turbo > 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp > -- > /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik > /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA > /// ti@amb.org > ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ > /// > From iin10ded at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 22:31:11 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. Message-ID: that's the word on the street.. =) -jim >From: Jim Green >To: j fizz , quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: audi 101.. >Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:34:33 -0800 (PST) > > >--- j fizz wrote: > > so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. > > what/where does the "ur" > > designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old > > s4/s6's ? > > > > ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' > > or something. i saw a > > red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive > > never read an exact > > explanation of this.. > >"ur" is the German word for "original" I believe. > > > >===== >Jim Green >'89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 >http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Mon Jan 6 23:46:48 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030106234606.01f1c270@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Actually "ur" comes from "urspruenglich" which indeed means original and "ur" is the contraction thereof. Mihnea At 22:31 6/01/2003 +0000, j fizz wrote: >that's the word on the street.. =) > >-jim > > > > >>From: Jim Green >>To: j fizz , quattro@audifans.com >>Subject: Re: audi 101.. >>Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:34:33 -0800 (PST) >> >> >>--- j fizz wrote: >> > so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. >> > what/where does the "ur" >> > designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old >> > s4/s6's ? >> > >> > ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' >> > or something. i saw a >> > red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive >> > never read an exact >> > explanation of this.. >> >>"ur" is the German word for "original" I believe. >> >> >> >>===== >>Jim Green >>'89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 >>http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html >> >>__________________________________________________ >>Do you Yahoo!? >>Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >>http://mailplus.yahoo.com > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus > From iin10ded at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 22:55:27 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and it looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a side street at about 130. if so your car is dope. -jim 88 90 un urq _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From iin10ded at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 22:57:02 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:52 2003 Subject: audi 101.. Message-ID: un-spring-lick? hmm. that might just be the name of my next punk pand. =) thanx! jim 88 90 un urq > >Actually "ur" comes from "urspruenglich" which indeed means original and >"ur" is the contraction thereof. > >Mihnea > >At 22:31 6/01/2003 +0000, j fizz wrote: >>that's the word on the street.. =) >> >>-jim >> >> >> >> >>>From: Jim Green >>>To: j fizz , quattro@audifans.com >>>Subject: Re: audi 101.. >>>Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 10:34:33 -0800 (PST) >>> >>> >>>--- j fizz wrote: >>> > so here's a silly but never asked audi question.. >>> > what/where does the "ur" >>> > designation come from in the coupe quattro's and old >>> > s4/s6's ? >>> > >>> > ive always assumed it was an abberviation for 'euro' >>> > or something. i saw a >>> > red tcq last night and it occurred to me that ive >>> > never read an exact >>> > explanation of this.. >>> >>>"ur" is the German word for "original" I believe. >>> >>> >>> >>>===== >>>Jim Green >>>'89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 >>>http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html >>> >>>__________________________________________________ >>>Do you Yahoo!? >>>Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >>>http://mailplus.yahoo.com >> >> >>_________________________________________________________________ >>MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE* >>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus >> _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From rustywww at ix.netcom.com Mon Jan 6 16:01:50 2003 From: rustywww at ix.netcom.com (Rusty Wafer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Fw: O2 sensor Message-ID: <029401c2b5d7$996cddc0$e6b4c341@Rustynew> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ----- Original Message ----- From: Rusty Wafer To: quattro@audifans.com Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:52 PM Subject: O2 sensor Where is the best place to get a O2 sensor for my V8 1990. Thanks -- From BenediktRochow at oaktech.com Mon Jan 6 18:05:41 2003 From: BenediktRochow at oaktech.com (BenediktRochow@oaktech.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: [NAC] what VW is this emblem for? Message-ID: This is a multipart message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I got this VW emblem from my brother for Christmas: about 10 cm diameter, pale metallic blue (bumpy finish - like the pock-marked blue metal finish electrical machinery used to be packaged in), plastic, no backing for the holes in the VW letters (i.e. grille emblem?). Part number on the bag (which says "Audi/VW/Skoda/Seat" and thus is fairly new): 3A0 853 600 /EPG Does the leading 3 mean Typ 3? Temblem does remind me of the Typ 3 Karmann Coupe, though plastic seems odd for back then. TIA From rizov_d at shaw.ca Mon Jan 6 16:50:25 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (rizov_d@shaw.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: ECU Message-ID: <4a43134a50d4.4a50d44a4313@shaw.ca> [ Converted text/html to text/plain ] In case when there are: - No fluctuations of control pressure actuator current (steady at 17.7 mA) - No preset values in open-loop (~10 mA) - No ability to enrich (when ground the OXS probe wire), but only to enlean with small battery voltage (+) Could be a conclusion drawn that ECU is faulty? Any experience repairing ECU? What could be a reasonable price for an used ECU? Thx, Dobby ----- Original Message ----- From: Huw Powell Date: Monday, January 6, 2003 12:54 pm Subject: Re: ECU > > > CIS-E, > > > > When in open loop does the ECU gets in preset values for > differential pressure > > regulator (8-10 mA) , with no fluctuations? > > Yes, basically. In open loop the current is fixed by the ecu - > when the > engine is cold, it is higher than that, though, to provide enrichment. > When the WOT switch is closed it is also in open loop, with a slight > enrichment to help you accelerate. > > Perhaps there is also a default for warm engine and no OXS signal, but > there might not be, since that is not a "normal" operating condition. > > The fluctuation in closed loop is due to the ECU constantly adjusting > the mixture slightly in response to the OXS signal, so the engine is > always veering a tiny tiny bit rich or lean - but very close to > perfectmixture. > > The later CIS E3 cars fluctuate around 0 mA, so in the case of no > powerto the ECU, they are capable of limping along ok - though not > very good > at starting when cold. > > You might want to do some searching of the archives, as I'm sure at > times myself and others have written detailed explanations of how > CIS-lambda systems work; there is also my web site which might be > helpful. > > -- > Huw Powell > > http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi > > http://www.humanthoughts.org/ > From mark at reisources.com Mon Jan 6 15:51:52 2003 From: mark at reisources.com (Mark Reis) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? References: Message-ID: <002901c2b5de$99cfe120$6601a8c0@etrade.com> Bit fast for a side street, doncha think? ----- Original Message ----- From: "j fizz" To: Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:55 PM Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? > > just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and it > looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a side > street at about 130. > > if so your car is dope. > > -jim > 88 90 un urq > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > From iin10ded at hotmail.com Mon Jan 6 23:53:57 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: 130 pm.. not mph =) >From: "Mark Reis" >To: "j fizz" , >Subject: Re: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? >Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:51:52 -0800 > >Bit fast for a side street, doncha think? > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "j fizz" >To: >Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:55 PM >Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? > > > > > > just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and it > > looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a side > > street at about 130. > > > > if so your car is dope. > > > > -jim > > 88 90 un urq > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* > > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From Boris813 at aol.com Mon Jan 6 18:55:47 2003 From: Boris813 at aol.com (Boris813@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Squeaky rear suspension over bumps - '93 90CSq Message-ID: <12d.1f4dcf4b.2b4b7183@aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] My '93 90CS quattro rear suspension has developed a bedspringy squeak when going over bumps. Doesn't seem to affect handling, but it's become annoying. Is this a common problem? Any help appreciated. Thanks From l.leung at juno.com Sun Jan 5 21:48:54 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" Message-ID: <20030106.185822.1436.13.l.leung@juno.com> Doug, Maybe. I think most of the hardening occurs from the temp of dry highway driving. Until I had a short commute (under 30 miles, instead of 120, I never had a set that was satisfactory after about 2 seasons, in spite of having at least 5/32 tread depth. Most of my snows were Euro based (Vredistein, Continental, etc) and none of them ever made it beyond half tread depth, which for snowies is at least 6/32s (I think most start at 12 rather than 10 32nds), so I think age and temp have a worse effect than tread depth loss of siping. I DO know that Michelin Artic Alpins are designed to have greater siping as they wear, a patented process in which sipes are the base of a "Y" and the sipes eventually break into two as the tread depth decreases. May help on ice, (they're great there) but I still think they suck on fresh, loose or slushy snow. As for your rather aged Blizzaks, they may still be pliable, but the real test is how pliable are they at below freezing temps on snow or ice. Let us know :-)! LL - NY On Sun, 5 Jan 2003 18:21:24 -0800 "Doug Johnson" writes: > I've got a set of the original Blizzaks (1996?) that are still > incredibly > pliable. > > I was expecting them to be hard by now. Could the rubber still be > soft > because they've got only about 1,000 miles on them? > > - Doug > > -----Original Message----- > From: quattro-admin@audifans.com > [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On > Behalf Of Larry C Leung > Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:45 PM > To: quattro@audifans.com > Subject: Re: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - What I did over > Christmas > > > Greg Galinsky or Marc Rosenkratz > could probably correct me on this, > but snow tires tend to have more > elastomers or some such to keep their > durometer soft in cold weather conditions > (i.e. lower the glassing point so that they > actually act like rubber when cold, rather > than like glass), but these additives are > rather volatile and eventually get driven off > by high temperatures (generally caused > by extended highway travel, especially on > dry pavement). So generally, snow tires > become "hard" and less capable with age > MUCH quicker than other types of tires, in > spite of their tread depth. When I used to > commute 120/day in the snow belt, I used > to give up on my snowies on a 2 yr cycle > religiously, even though most of the time I > had between 30 - 50% original tread depth. > > By the time the 2 yrs were up, the tire rubber > was so hard that the tires were useless as > snows by the third season. Now, with a shorter > commute, I can generally pull about 3 -4 yrs per > set, and even wear them down to maybe 4 -5 32nds > tread depth with no problems. The biggest problem > at that this point of tread depth wear is snow stability > (not traction), ice capability is less compromised. > > LL - NY > > > > > > > Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:47:11 -0500 > > From: B Vibert > > To: Fred Munro > > Cc: TM , 'Robert Myers' > , > > s-car-list@audifans.com, 'Quattro list' > > > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my > > Eagle > > Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two > > years. > > This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't > get > > much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. > > Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they > just > > don't work once they get worn down a bit. > > > > Burl Vibert > > 1987 5kcstq > > Kingston, Ontario > > > > > > > > Fred Munro wrote: > > > > > > Hi Taka; > > > > > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they > get > > down to 50% > > > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and > > stability in slush > > > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more > > like > > > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your > time > > toodling > > > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my > > driving is > > > highway. > > > > > > Fred Munro > > > '94 S4 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > > > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > > > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > > > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > > > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > > > Bob- > > > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was > > driving in > > > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > > > > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off > dramatically > > in > > > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 > > to > > > 1/2 of the original tread? > > > > > > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > > > _______________________________________________ > > quattro mailing list > > quattro@audifans.com > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > > > > End of quattro Digest > > > > > > > From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Jan 6 19:17:13 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: <17644F98.229650D9.0016D39D@aol.com> Ha, that's funny, I read it as 1:30, but after seeing Mark's email, it could have definitely gone either way =) Javad In a message dated 1/6/2003 6:53:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, "j fizz" writes: >130 pm.. not mph =) > > >>From: "Mark Reis" >>To: "j fizz" , >>Subject: Re: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? >>Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:51:52 -0800 >> >>Bit fast for a side street, doncha think? >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "j fizz" >>To: >>Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:55 PM >>Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? >> >> >> > >> > just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and it >> > looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a side >> > street at about 130. >> > >> > if so your car is dope. >> > >> > -jim >> > 88 90 un urq >> > >> > >> > _________________________________________________________________ >> > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* >> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail >> > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Jan 6 19:18:06 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Squeaky rear suspension over bumps - '93 90CSq Message-ID: <2AEA29E1.4E8764B7.0016D39D@aol.com> Try lubing the rear swaybar bushings, they can get noisey, especially if it squeeks by pushing down on the rear bumper. Javad >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >My '93 90CS quattro rear suspension has developed a bedspringy squeak when >going over bumps. ?Doesn't seem to affect handling, but it's become annoying. > Is this a common problem? ?Any help appreciated. ?Thanks > From wphelps at rizzo.com Mon Jan 6 19:19:44 2003 From: wphelps at rizzo.com (Bill Phelps) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: 87 4KQ "grumpy" when cold... Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Recent cold/snowy weather here in Mass seems to be affecting my 87 4KQ. The car starts fine even when stone cold, so I'm guessing its not the thermo-time switch. However, sometimes after starting the idle will fluctuate slightly and the car will just about die when any accelerator is applied. It does not stall, however. Seems to only last for the first 30 seconds to 1 minute or so then the car runs fine. If I wait for the car to fully warm up all is well... I have checked the NTC sensor per the Book of Bentley (OK) and cleaned the connector. The car otherwise runs great and has no apparent vacuum leaks... Could the ISV be hanging up when cold messing with the mixture. I've cleaned it a few times...Ailing 02 sensor not heating up? Any ideas? Thanks Bill From santoliquido at cox.net Mon Jan 6 19:25:17 2003 From: santoliquido at cox.net (SJ&I Santoliquido) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Printing from the Family Album on XP Message-ID: <001801c2b5e3$41513580$6601a8c0@LAPTOP1> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I did an archive search and learned how to get it running on XP (thanks Chris). But I was wondering if anyone out there has yet figured out how to get it to print. Steve -- From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Jan 6 19:54:40 2003 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Air intake mod for 90q (was Thanks again) In-Reply-To: <1041890341.3e19fc2580f6a@webmail.the-wire.com> Message-ID: <000801c2b5e7$5c659830$6400a8c0@newpc> IMHO, it's not worth trying to modify the 12v V6 engine for more power. Better to work on the suspension and make it at least handle nicely or start with a different platform. I think doing an S4tt transplant into a B4 would be interesting. Taka From iin10ded at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 00:54:30 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: yea.. i was totally confused, i read the reply thinking "I DIDNT WRITE THAT!"... not even my penchant for exxaggeration runs that brazen. =) -jim >From: JShadzi@aol.com >To: iin10ded@hotmail.com ("j fizz"), mark@reisources.com, >quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? >Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 19:17:13 -0500 > >Ha, that's funny, I read it as 1:30, but after seeing Mark's email, it >could have definitely gone either way =) > >Javad > >In a message dated 1/6/2003 6:53:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, "j fizz" > writes: > > >130 pm.. not mph =) > > > > > >>From: "Mark Reis" > >>To: "j fizz" , > >>Subject: Re: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? > >>Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 15:51:52 -0800 > >> > >>Bit fast for a side street, doncha think? > >> > >>----- Original Message ----- > >>From: "j fizz" > >>To: > >>Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 2:55 PM > >>Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? > >> > >> > >> > > >> > just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and >it > >> > looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a >side > >> > street at about 130. > >> > > >> > if so your car is dope. > >> > > >> > -jim > >> > 88 90 un urq > >> > > >> > > >> > _________________________________________________________________ > >> > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* > >> > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > >> > > > > > > >_________________________________________________________________ > >MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*. > >http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail > > > > _________________________________________________________________ MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus From t44tq at mindspring.com Mon Jan 6 19:58:54 2003 From: t44tq at mindspring.com (TM) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" In-Reply-To: <20030106.185822.1436.13.l.leung@juno.com> Message-ID: <000901c2b5e7$f37acf60$6400a8c0@newpc> Blizzaks (exc. for the LM-22) generally suck after 1/2 the tread is gone because the multicell compound is worn away and you're left with basically a mediocre tire at that point. I've noticed a significant decrease in performance in the Dunlop Wintersport M2s this year (third season) on our A4 (205/55R16). Maybe it's just because I'm driving the car a lot more, maybe it's because I'm a lot more aggressive in the snow being my fourth season of driving exclusively quattro. I've yet to drive the NRWs in real nice powder snow, all I can say is that they're dicey in deep slush and they're too wide for the car (225/45R17). Taka From tvandervoort at msn.com Mon Jan 6 19:27:53 2003 From: tvandervoort at msn.com (Tom Vandervoort) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner Message-ID: Hey quattrophiles: Check out www.HerringtonCatalog.com for what appears to be an amazing "love it or hate it" model of the Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner comemerative model. Both contemporary and retro, the car was shown at the Paris Auto Salon. Young Bernd Rosemeyer broke Mercedes' strangelhold on Gran Prix racing for Auto Union in the Ferdi Porsche-designed rear engine 8 liter 16 cylinder streamliner with the all-independent suspension. He did it at Nurburgring in "der Deutsche mist" 1934 earning the nickname "Der Nebelmeister" by beating von Brauchitsch, Caracciola and Nuvolari. Rosemeyer dominated GP racing for 3 seasons before ignoring Carraciola's warning that strong cross winds were blowing on the Italian's record run of 268 mph in the Mercedes. At 270 mph at the Frankfurt airport a strong gust somesaulted the Auto Union Special flinging Rosemeyer to eternity. The Streamliner's 1:18 scale and 9.75" long. It's back ordered 3 weeks. 45 bucks. Tom S2 From ralphmachorro at hvc.rr.com Mon Jan 6 21:05:06 2003 From: ralphmachorro at hvc.rr.com (Ralph Machorro) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Parts anyone? Message-ID: <000001c2b5f1$366c2cc0$6400a8c0@gooch> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I need a set of power mirrors for my 89 100 quattro. Anyone have a set they want to part with? -Ralph -- From dans at audifans.com Mon Jan 6 21:14:10 2003 From: dans at audifans.com (dans) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Listed here, please let me know at Message-ID: <200301070214.h072EAH232242@logs-wj.proxy.aol.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] ------------------ Virus Warning Message (on www.audifans.com) Found virus WORM_KLEZ.H in file links The file is deleted. --------------------------------------------------------- From MXHOWES at aol.com Mon Jan 6 21:29:02 2003 From: MXHOWES at aol.com (MXHOWES@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Return to idle problem..'88 80q Message-ID: <129.1f6f4733.2b4b956e@aol.com> When you drive around and shift at 3000 the rpm's do not drop right away as you take your foot off the gas, it kind of hangs at 3000 and slowly comes down. If you take it up to 3000 and just hold it there for a few seconds then shift the rpm's will drop as expected, quickley to below 2000 then slowly back to a idle. This is NOT a problem with the throtle cable or the 'Deceleration damper'. The 80q is in proper tune but it does feel like it has a 200# flywheel. Thanks, Jim From quattrofan at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 6 18:58:07 2003 From: quattrofan at sbcglobal.net (Mike Robinson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Jim, I know which car you are talking about, I can't remember the guys name for the life of me. I am pretty sure he is not on the list though. He lives in Santa Clara and works a few buildings away from mine in San Jose. He also has a sliver Ford F150 Lightning with a small Audi Sport sticker on the back window. I used to live two blocks away from him and we chatted a few times, I would always see him on the way to work. That urS4 is heavily modded as I remember. He used to have a bunch of 2Bennet stickers on it. -Mike Robinson 1988 90q SS 245,000+ mi On 1/6/03 2:55 PM, "j fizz" wrote: > > just saw a SWEEEET black 94s4 with r-28's [18's?], big dtm tips and it > looked a wee bit low.. on old bayshore in burlingame pulling down a side > street at about 130. > > if so your car is dope. > > -jim > 88 90 un urq > > > _________________________________________________________________ > The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* > http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From JShadzi at aol.com Mon Jan 6 22:10:19 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: <2AF288AD.12C97CCA.0016D39D@aol.com> Mike, I think you're talking about Chris Leal, but that wasn't his car Jim saw, Chris's car isn't on the street right now, I've seen this other guy around, never met him though. We blasted through some traffic on El Camino one day but I had to turn and he kept going straight, seemed to be quick enough. Javad In a message dated 1/6/2003 9:58:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, quattrofan@sbcglobal.net writes: > > Jim, > > I know which car you are talking about, I can't remember the guys name for > the life of me. I am pretty sure he is not on the list though. He lives in > Santa Clara and works a few buildings away from mine in San Jose. He also > has a sliver Ford F150 Lightning with a small Audi Sport sticker on the back > window. I used to live two blocks away from him and we chatted a few times, > I would always see him on the way to work. That urS4 is heavily modded as I > remember. He used to have a bunch of 2Bennet stickers on > it. > > -Mike Robinson > 1988 90q SS 245,000+ mi From Andrews at columbus.rr.com Mon Jan 6 22:18:01 2003 From: Andrews at columbus.rr.com (Andrew Suttner) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? Message-ID: <000f01c2b5fb$63993940$0300a8c0@default> Ive been looking for a set of wheels and my selection is pretty limited. Anyone with BTDT dealing with focus wheels with a 4 x 108 bolt pattern on an Audi? Is this possible or would they not fit right? TIA Andy From lee at wheelman.com Mon Jan 6 22:30:55 2003 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway In-Reply-To: <99838F2C-21ED-11D7-9511-0050E4F9A21F@mindspring.com> Message-ID: If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs while snow is within 400 miles, TURN THEM DOWN. Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they went with the economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along with no ABS, no traction control, and the thing is completely unusable in the snow. And we only have a dusting! It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the slightest pressure on the go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From l.leung at juno.com Mon Jan 6 19:03:36 2003 From: l.leung at juno.com (Larry C Leung) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" Message-ID: <20030106.224335.1436.18.l.leung@juno.com> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Oh yeah, forgot to mention that, the storage thing.... Thanks, LL - NY On Sun, 5 Jan 2003 20:41:11 -0600 (Central Standard Time) "Greg Galinsky" writes: One possible reason for the soft feel is that the tires may have been stored under favorable conditions. Were they kept out of UV rays and sunlight when not in use? Were they also stored in a kind of a controled temperature; in the 50 to 75degree range? Those two things will help prolong the life of the rubber; or more accuratly the miles that the rubber compounds work effectively. I'm not 100% certain how the multicell rubber compound in the Blizzaks respond to sun or heat. Their chemistry may help prolong their lifespan; when driven it certianly does not. They seem to be good for 15 to 18k on the outer tread compound Greg Galinsky G & G Service -------Original Message------- From: Doug Johnson Date: Sunday, January 05, 2003 11:07:01 PM To: Larry C Leung; quattro@audifans.com Subject: RE: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" I've got a set of the original Blizzaks (1996?) that are still incredibly pliable. I was expecting them to be hard by now. Could the rubber still be soft because they've got only about 1,000 miles on them? - Doug -----Original Message----- From: quattro-admin@audifans.com [mailto:quattro-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Larry C Leung Sent: Saturday, January 04, 2003 2:45 PM To: quattro@audifans.com Subject: Re: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - What I did over Christmas Greg Galinsky or Marc Rosenkratz could probably correct me on this, but snow tires tend to have more elastomers or some such to keep their durometer soft in cold weather conditions (i.e. lower the glassing point so that they actually act like rubber when cold, rather than like glass), but these additives are rather volatile and eventually get driven off by high temperatures (generally caused by extended highway travel, especially on dry pavement). So generally, snow tires become "hard" and less capable with age MUCH quicker than other types of tires, in spite of their tread depth. When I used to commute 120/day in the snow belt, I used to give up on my snowies on a 2 yr cycle religiously, even though most of the time I had between 30 - 50% original tread depth. By the time the 2 yrs were up, the tire rubber was so hard that the tires were useless as snows by the third season. Now, with a shorter commute, I can generally pull about 3 -4 yrs per set, and even wear them down to maybe 4 -5 32nds tread depth with no problems. The biggest problem at that this point of tread depth wear is snow stability (not traction), ice capability is less compromised. LL - NY > Date: Sat, 04 Jan 2003 11:47:11 -0500 > From: B Vibert > To: Fred Munro > Cc: TM , 'Robert Myers' , > s-car-list@audifans.com, 'Quattro list' > > Subject: Re: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > I was playing around in the slushy snow yesterday and noticed my > Eagle > Ultra-Grips weren't gripping as much as they did the last two > years. > This will definitely be their last winter. Good thing we don't get > much snow in my area or they'd be replaced this year. > Probably why I see used snow tires for sale all the time, they just > don't work once they get worn down a bit. > > Burl Vibert > 1987 5kcstq > Kingston, Ontario > > > > Fred Munro wrote: > > > > Hi Taka; > > > > As a rule of thumb, I always replace my snow tires when they get > down to 50% > > remaining tread depth. I find the high speed traction and > stability in slush > > and snow falls off considerably at this point and they act more > like > > all-season tires than snow tires. If you spend most of your time > toodling > > around town it probably doesn't matter as much, but 90% of my > driving is > > highway. > > > > Fred Munro > > '94 S4 > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: s-car-list-admin@audifans.com > > [mailto:s-car-list-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of TM > > Sent: January 3, 2003 10:38 PM > > To: 'Robert Myers'; s-car-list@audifans.com; 'Quattro list' > > Subject: [s-cars] RE: What I did over Christmas > > > > Bob- > > That sounded pretty much like my Christmas, although it was > driving in > > heavy rain in the morning and snow at night. > > > > Is it just me or do Dunlop Wintersport M2s drop off dramatically > in > > terms of traction and directional stability once you use up 1/3 > to > > 1/2 of the original tread? > > > > > > > --__--__-- > > _______________________________________________ > quattro mailing list > quattro@audifans.com > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro > > > End of quattro Digest > > . ____________________________________________________ IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here -- [ IMSTP.gif of type image/gif deleted ] -- From suffolk.associates at verizon.net Mon Jan 6 22:49:12 2003 From: suffolk.associates at verizon.net (Suffolk GameServer LAN) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Tires for icy conditions - NAC In-Reply-To: <20021230032039.1730.60407.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: Winter tires (four) are a major advantage. I read these post about the Hakka's and I must be missing out. Here's my experience for comparision. I can Echo Huw and Brett's snow grip from the days of my Pirelli W210P on my 4KQ and 10V 200 Avant, but they seem to be on a higher level technology/performance wise. The last three NE snowstorms Dec 20 - Jan 5 I logged ~750 miles BOS/NJ/BOS/NH/BOSin two different Q's Both with all seasons: While I could get out and past anyone I wanted to, -on hills-('99 A6Q Tip)Chrsitmas day/Worcester hills & 84 out of Hartford, the car had little stablity at 55-60 MPH in the road's two tires ruts. It was like letting Down Hill snow skis swim at speed. Something not encountered in the past with snows on. The ability to push an extra 10 MPH with stablibity is so worth the price of the snow tires. IMHO Last weekend, the snow storm in NH and Mass: 1991 200QAvant 20V, Started Friday noon with 4 Cooper A/S at 30PSI.(RR was LOW) 70 miles later the car swam as the A6 did and pulled slightly R like the alignment was off. The RR tire was FLAT and further running on it, to get air, broke the side wall thru. The above was @70MPH in less than 1" of accumulation in Manch-vegas.. The 200 Avant seemed to have a better stablity by 5+ MPH (65/70 vs 55/60-A6) However, the 200 speedo isn't checked for accuracy yet and the NH snow was colder 25F and not as icy 32F FWIW. Remember Quattro means go NOT stop. HTH - Scott in BOSTON Subject: Re: Tires for icy conditions - NAC The Hakka Q's spiral sipe supposedly makes it good on sheer ice as > well, but it won't match the studded Hakka 1 which is the "ultimate." > > Either tire would be a -vast- improvement over a standard "all > season" tire- the difference between my "all season" dunlops and the > Hakka Q's was -astounding-. The term "all season" is such a joke... Let me pipe up again with my Hakka 1 testimonial. I am simply amazed at what they do. I mean, you can get around on almost anything with a quattro in the snow, but I put these slightly used hakkas on just before that big storm hit. Driving on packed snow is like being on pavement, unless you floor it. Braking is really good, to my surprise, about 1/2 as good as a dry road. And on top of that, there is great lateral traction too. I expected them to help a bit, but I was truly stunned what they can do. From dave at expertfriend.com Mon Jan 6 22:57:48 2003 From: dave at expertfriend.com (Dave Arkle) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway References: Message-ID: <002401c2b600$f166b310$9701a8c0@MINIME> Hi all; My ex has a base-model Focus and I thought it rocked out in the snow. But I'm guessing that since you're complaining about no traction control or ABS you're not from snow country, so I forgive you :). BTW my present gf has a Hyundai Accent 5spd, and that thing is absolutely unstopable in the white stuff, considering it has cheesy all-season tires. Driving that thing in snow reminds me of the teenage years when I'd go out and drive around with my friends for hours on end whenever it snowed just because it's so fun.... I had a 76 B210 back then, and to this day I have never had a car that was as all-around perfect in snow as it was (RWD btw). Ya, I'm including my old 5KTQ... Of course, living in KY now suck issues are behind me. Anyone for a motorcycle ride? lol... Dave Arkle DoD #11011 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for an Audi TQ... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Levitt" To: "Qlist" ; "s-car list" Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:30 PM Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs while snow is within 400 miles, TURN THEM DOWN. Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they went with the economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along with no ABS, no traction control, and the thing is completely unusable in the snow. And we only have a dusting! It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the slightest pressure on the go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From bob at audisport.com Mon Jan 6 22:50:26 2003 From: bob at audisport.com (Bob) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway References: Message-ID: <3E1A4E82.2020709@audisport.com> I dont think its BoreUs specific. Quattro is one thing we take for granted it seems... I have plenty of friends that complain when they visit because their (typically fwd) cars wont make my driveway. Especially now that theres a foot of snow on it. My quattros make it up withouth even spinning a wheel or locking the diffs. Bob Lee Levitt wrote: >*This message was transferred with a trial version of CommuniGate(tm) Pro* >If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs while snow is within 400 >miles, TURN THEM DOWN. > >Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they went with the >economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along with no ABS, no traction >control, and the thing is completely unusable in the snow. >And we only have a dusting! > >It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the slightest pressure on the >go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. > >Lee >'95.5 S6 avant >'96 A6 quattro avant > > > > > From suffolk.associates at verizon.net Mon Jan 6 22:59:17 2003 From: suffolk.associates at verizon.net (Suffolk GameServer LAN) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/conversion_home3.html In-Reply-To: <20021230032039.1730.60407.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: Outstanding job! Just Looks FAST! -Scott in BOSTON From: Jim Green Subject: The pics of the header install To: Quattro list , Javad Shadzi http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/conversion_home3.html The page should explain most of it. I put the plastic cover on the bottom of the bumper for the first time in a year since I'm finished! From srosen at starxray.com Mon Jan 6 23:11:53 2003 From: srosen at starxray.com (Steve R) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway References: <002401c2b600$f166b310$9701a8c0@MINIME> Message-ID: <001001c2b602$ec193520$2f18bb18@STEVES> And don't forget it was a rental car. Usually the least expensive model with no options. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Arkle" To: "Qlist" Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:57 PM Subject: Re: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway > Hi all; > > My ex has a base-model Focus and I thought it rocked out in the snow. But > I'm guessing that since you're complaining about no traction control or ABS > you're not from snow country, so I forgive you :). > > BTW my present gf has a Hyundai Accent 5spd, and that thing is absolutely > unstopable in the white stuff, considering it has cheesy all-season tires. > Driving that thing in snow reminds me of the teenage years when I'd go out > and drive around with my friends for hours on end whenever it snowed just > because it's so fun.... I had a 76 B210 back then, and to this day I > have never had a car that was as all-around perfect in snow as it was (RWD > btw). Ya, I'm including my old 5KTQ... > > Of course, living in KY now suck issues are behind me. Anyone for a > motorcycle ride? lol... > > Dave Arkle > DoD #11011 > 96 Daytona 1200 > 84 V65 Sabre > 67 Buick LeSabre > On the hunt for an Audi TQ... > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Lee Levitt" > To: "Qlist" ; "s-car list" > Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:30 PM > Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway > > > If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs while snow is within 400 > miles, TURN THEM DOWN. > > Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they went with the > economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along with no ABS, no traction > control, and the thing is completely unusable in the snow. > And we only have a dusting! > > It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the slightest pressure on the > go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. > > Lee > '95.5 S6 avant > '96 A6 quattro avant > > > > > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.435 / Virus Database: 244 - Release Date: 12/30/2002 From davidt at opentext.com Mon Jan 6 23:59:41 2003 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: 5Ks question - help Message-ID: Hi all, I am confused, how do I loosen the pump under the water pulley? Its the one under the rad. I need to loosen the tension to replace the belts. Thanks Signed Standing in garage :-) David A. Templeton '85 5Ks wagon From ti at amb.org Mon Jan 6 21:36:27 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner In-Reply-To: from "Tom Vandervoort" at Jan 06, 2003 07:27:53 PM Message-ID: <200301070536.FAA02199@amb.org> Tom Vandervoort writes: > Hey quattrophiles: Check out www.HerringtonCatalog.com for what appears to > be an amazing "love it or hate it" model of the Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner > comemerative model. Both contemporary and retro, the car was shown at the > Paris Auto Salon. > ... > The > Streamliner's 1:18 scale and 9.75" long. It's back ordered 3 weeks. 45 > bucks. Our local Fry's Electronics has a bunch of them sitting on the shelf. I didn't look at the price, but I'll bet it's less than $45. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From quattrofan at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 6 19:18:41 2003 From: quattrofan at sbcglobal.net (Mike Robinson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? In-Reply-To: <2AF288AD.12C97CCA.0016D39D@aol.com> Message-ID: Yes Javad, I was thinking of Chris Leal, my bad. On 1/6/03 7:10 PM, "JShadzi@aol.com" wrote: > Mike, I think you're talking about Chris Leal, but that wasn't his car Jim > saw, Chris's car isn't on the street right now, I've seen this other guy > around, never met him though. We blasted through some traffic on El Camino > one day but I had to turn and he kept going straight, seemed to be quick > enough. > > Javad > > In a message dated 1/6/2003 9:58:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, > quattrofan@sbcglobal.net writes: > >> >> Jim, >> >> I know which car you are talking about, I can't remember the guys name for >> the life of me. I am pretty sure he is not on the list though. He lives in >> Santa Clara and works a few buildings away from mine in San Jose. He also >> has a sliver Ford F150 Lightning with a small Audi Sport sticker on the back >> window. I used to live two blocks away from him and we chatted a few times, >> I would always see him on the way to work. That urS4 is heavily modded as I >> remember. He used to have a bunch of 2Bennet stickers on >> it. >> >> -Mike Robinson >> 1988 90q SS 245,000+ mi From urq at pacbell.net Mon Jan 6 22:34:13 2003 From: urq at pacbell.net (urq) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: O2 sensor References: <026901c2b5cd$f31c5a80$e6b4c341@Rustynew> Message-ID: <01b601c2b616$cb5869a0$b97ba8c0@RAPID> > Where is the best place to get a O2 sensor for my V8 1990. ... if you want the exact factory part I'd recommend calling Didi at Carlsen Audi and see if she can get an OEM one ... frankly I never bother with that and order a standard Bosch universal 3-wire OXS from just about anywhere ... cost is U$40 or less and it includes all of the crimp ferrules and heat shrink tubing to splice it into the existing sensor's harness ... HTH! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) From urq at pacbell.net Mon Jan 6 22:42:59 2003 From: urq at pacbell.net (urq) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: using hall sender to trigger tdc sensor? References: <38.33acde9c.2b4a22a3@aol.com> Message-ID: <01d101c2b618$04e9d9a0$b97ba8c0@RAPID> ... perhaps I should have used the word binary ... the output has two distinct states ... one/zero, high/low ... whatever you want to call it. The Hall Sender output should be either 0V or 5V ... you should never see it at say 1.23 volts. Hook an oscilloscope up to the timing sensors on the flywheel pins and you will see a signal that is most definitely not binary ... as a matter of fact the voltage will swing both positive and negative as the pin passes the sensor ... HTH! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) > -- > The output of the hall sener is a 0-5v signal, what do you mean by "digital > signal"? > > Javad > > In a message dated 1/5/2003 4:01:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, urq@pacbell.net > writes: > > > Furthermore, the output of the Hall Sender is a digital signal (1 or 0) > > while the timing sensors have a much more analog signal coming from them as > > the pin flies by ... > > > From urq at pacbell.net Mon Jan 6 22:55:00 2003 From: urq at pacbell.net (urq) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Power steering . . . References: Message-ID: <01f201c2b619$b2a21700$b97ba8c0@RAPID> ... this is a tough one to debug remotely ... what is hard steering to some is normal to others ... and Audis tend not to have overboosted steering. Every so often my wife asks me to check the steering on our car because she thinks it has gotten stiffer ... sometimes the tires can use a bit of air, but that's it ... ... and that is my first suggestion ... if your front tires are underinflated ... or the treads are worn ... it will tend to make the steering stiffer ... As far as mechanisms which involve other failures, in general I would say that there isn't much likelihood of coupling some other problem into the steering ... except perhaps one. You mention that the ISV may not be working correctly ... if this means that the engine is idling at too slow a speed that could well affect the pressures in the hydraulic system ... and thus make the car more difficult to steer. I assume the cars are automatics ... so a test for this theory would be to try turning the steering wheel with the car stopped and in neutral with a slight bit of throttle ... say run the engine at 1500-2000 RPM and see if the wheel turns easier than it does normally ... HTH! Steve Buchholz San Jose, CA (USA) > Power steering is much stiffer than it should be. > The power steering container holds fluid. First it happened on the > '88 5000. That was my husband's car for about a year. We put that > away for a while in the garage. So we took out the '87 5000 for > the winter which has great heated seats. My husband drove that car > last year for about a month and now I am driving it. > > The stiffness didn't seem to bother my husband on his car, but we > both need to drive this one and I have a perpetual torn tendon in my > right shoulder and it is really aggravating the situation. > > The idle stabilizer valve needs to be replaced . . . would have have > anything to do with it? > We are shopping to find the cheapest idle stabilizer right now. > > Does sitting allow dirt to form and clog something in the power > steering/power brake system? Or is there some other sensor which we > need to look at? > > Could it be from a vacuum leak, by chance? From JShadzi at aol.com Tue Jan 7 02:15:01 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: using hall sender to trigger tdc sensor? Message-ID: <3A3E2C56.78D401BF.0016D39D@aol.com> Ahh yes, Binary and a square wave. Javad In a message dated 1/7/2003 1:42:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, urq@pacbell.net writes: > ... perhaps I should have used the word binary ... the output has two > distinct states ... one/zero, high/low ... whatever you want to call it. > The Hall Sender output should be either 0V or 5V ... you should never see it > at say 1.23 volts. Hook an oscilloscope up to the timing sensors on the > flywheel pins and you will see a signal that is most definitely not binary > ... as a matter of fact the voltage will swing both positive and negative as > the pin passes the sensor ... > > HTH! > Steve Buchholz > San Jose, CA (USA) > > > -- > > The output of the hall sener is a 0-5v signal, what do you mean by > "digital > > signal"? > > > > Javad > > > > In a message dated 1/5/2003 4:01:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, > urq@pacbell.net > > writes: > > > > > Furthermore, the output of the Hall Sender is a digital signal (1 or 0) > > > while the timing sensors have a much more analog signal > coming from them > as > > > the pin flies by ... > > > > > From Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz Tue Jan 7 22:43:42 2003 From: Dave.Eaton at clear.net.nz (Dave.Eaton) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: the gallardos is launched Message-ID: <000001c2b631$5f154f40$6901a8c0@dellboy> the mid-engined awd lamborghini gallardo has been officially launched - based on an aluminium space frame designed, developed and produced by audi. of interest to audifans is that the new 500-hp, 5-liter v-10 is destined for the next s6, and in twin turbo form for the next rs6. there is a picture of this motor on audiworld. dave '95 rs2 '90 ur-q From lee at wheelman.com Tue Jan 7 07:05:46 2003 From: lee at wheelman.com (Lee Levitt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway In-Reply-To: <3E1A4E82.2020709@audisport.com> Message-ID: Bob writes: > > > I dont think its BoreUs specific. Quattro is one thing we take for > granted it seems... I have plenty of friends that complain when they > visit because their (typically fwd) cars wont make my driveway. > Especially now that theres a foot of snow on it. My quattros make it up > withouth even spinning a wheel or locking the diffs. Yep, we do take the capabilities of our cars for granted. The downside of this rental is that my wife has been demanding the keys to *my* car. And she doesn't drive quite the way I do (avoiding potholes, careless parkers, etc). But that rental car is dangerous. I've already called Enterprise to request a car with more capabilities...perhaps even something with snow tires. Doh. We'll see what they come up with. Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From spokes at the-wire.com Tue Jan 7 08:03:16 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? In-Reply-To: <000f01c2b5fb$63993940$0300a8c0@default> References: <000f01c2b5fb$63993940$0300a8c0@default> Message-ID: <1041944596.3e1ad014b55ac@webmail.the-wire.com> Any independent tire/wheel shop should be willing to pull your car in and 'try' a focus wheel on it. You simply need to take one wheel off and hold up the focus wheel on the car. No personal experience though... -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Andrew Suttner : > Ive been looking for a set of wheels and my selection is pretty limited. > Anyone with BTDT dealing with focus wheels with a 4 x 108 bolt pattern on > an > Audi? Is this possible or would they not fit right? > > TIA > > > Andy > > From apritchard at seaeye.com Tue Jan 7 13:10:33 2003 From: apritchard at seaeye.com (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] As I recall they should be the correct pitch, but I believe the taper on the center that fits over the hub is a smaller diameter, and the offsets are different, I cant remember which way though, 80, 90,100 4 x 108 35...42 57.0 Fiesta, Ka, Puma, Escort, Orion, Focus, Sierra, Mondeo, Granada 4 x 108 35...38 63.3 AHA!!! -----Original Message----- From: Dave Hord [mailto:spokes@the-wire.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 1:03 PM To: Andrew Suttner Cc: quattro@audifans.com; Audi 20V Subject: Re: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? Any independent tire/wheel shop should be willing to pull your car in and 'try' a focus wheel on it. You simply need to take one wheel off and hold up the focus wheel on the car. No personal experience though... -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm Quoting Andrew Suttner : > Ive been looking for a set of wheels and my selection is pretty limited. > Anyone with BTDT dealing with focus wheels with a 4 x 108 bolt pattern on > an > Audi? Is this possible or would they not fit right? > > TIA > > > Andy > > From apritchard at seaeye.com Tue Jan 7 13:39:19 2003 From: apritchard at seaeye.com (Alan Pritchard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: when is a motorbike not a motorbike?? NAC Message-ID: This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] When dodge makes it........ http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story2&cid=569&ncid=738&e=3&u=/nm/2003 0106/tc_nm/autos_show_dodge_dc From duandcc_forums at cox.net Tue Jan 7 09:18:30 2003 From: duandcc_forums at cox.net (duandcc_forums@cox.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Greetings Again Message-ID: <20030107141830.WOVR993.lakemtao08.cox.net@smtp.central.cox.net> Hi (again), I had to drop off the list for a few months while I changed jobs. Well, I'm back. If you remember, I'm the guy with the 1987 Coupe GT Special Build who had problems with a R134a AC conversion. Anyway, that all worked out fine. I ended taking it to another shop and they diagnose the problem withing 1/2 hour and had my vent tents at 36-38* within 2 hours. Turns out that the previous shop had BAD information and had the system WAY over charged. To think, that idiot flushed and refilled it like 4 times. I wanted to thank everyone on the list for their help. Anyway, since do that conversion, I've also done a full body restoration on the Coupe GT. I had every ding fixed and had it repainted in the original black. You can see pics at: http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/front.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/leftfront.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/leftrear.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/rear.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/rear2.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/rightrear.jpg http://members.cox.net/duandcc/pictures/1987.5CGT/rightside.jpg 4 Rings to rule over all that is mortal! Dave 1987 Coupe GT Special Build From lindgre at online.no Tue Jan 7 15:35:32 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: [NAC] what VW is this emblem for? References: Message-ID: <3E1AE5B4.8080303@online.no> BenediktRochow@oaktech.com wrote: >This is a multipart message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >I got this VW emblem from my brother for Christmas: about 10 cm diameter, >pale metallic blue (bumpy finish - like the pock-marked blue metal finish >electrical machinery used to be packaged in), plastic, no backing for the >holes in the VW letters (i.e. grille emblem?). >Part number on the bag (which says "Audi/VW/Skoda/Seat" and thus is fairly >new): >3A0 853 600 /EPG > This is the grille badge for virtually any Polo/Golf/Jetta/Passat/Eurovan from mid 80's to late 90's. > >Does the leading 3 mean Typ 3? Temblem does remind me of the Typ 3 Karmann >Coupe, though plastic seems odd for back then. > 3 does indeed mean type 3 (of which I'm an owner of a 73 Squareback), but it also means Passat. You see, the Passat is also a type 3! Just as the Audi 100 is a type 4, of which the original type 4 was the VW 411/412 series. PerL 87 Cq From armanmik at earthlink.net Tue Jan 7 10:34:25 2003 From: armanmik at earthlink.net (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi type 44 aircraft . . . Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20030107103425.3cd78ce8@mail.earthlink.net> Reading the following exchange brought a smile to my face - "Yup, Clem, these here helicopter parts are genuine Audi!" Seriously now, if the type 44 Audi was an airplane, would YOU fly in one? (Insert tongue in cheek emoticon here) Alternatively, if the type 44 Audi were a helicopter, would you want to be anywhere near one when it started up? We should be very thankful indeed that we are just complaining about team doorhandle instead of team main rotor blades or team landing gear, or maybe even team ejection seat . . . >Subject: Re:Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle >Date: Mon, 6 Jan 2003 11:00:13 -0700 > >Look for Rocket City Ball links, I use them on my helicopters. > >Britt Crowell >Crowell Consulting Inc. >970-484-4995 > >> Message: 2 >> Date: Sun, 05 Jan 2003 21:55:13 -0500 >> To: "Joseph Rae" , >> From: Kneale Brownson >> Subject: Re: Team Door Handle Strikes again! Need Part Number for >> plastic ball sockets for 87 Type44 door handle >> >> Someone reported recently they found substitute parts for those plastic >> sockets at a radio-control model shop. Maybe you can find the posting >> through a Google search on Audifans.com ??? Best Regards, Mike Arman From jrbooth3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 06:48:33 2003 From: jrbooth3 at yahoo.com (John Booth) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: idle switch Message-ID: <20030107144833.75966.qmail@web12404.mail.yahoo.com> I am having a problem with my car running lean at anything much above 2000 rpm. I found I have a bad idle switch where it will not close the circuit when at idle so it doesn't know it's throttle is closed. The car runs rich but fine with the temp sensor unplugged. I have replaced the temp sensor, fuel distributor, idle stabilisor valve, o2 sensor in the past 6 months since buying the car and installed a Nordskog air/fuel gauge. Could the idle switch cause the lean condition? Does anyone know a good source for an idle switch? __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From armanmik at earthlink.net Tue Jan 7 10:59:37 2003 From: armanmik at earthlink.net (Mike Arman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Shot from a cannon (Marginal Audi content) Message-ID: <3.0.3.16.20030107105937.0d172e6c@mail.earthlink.net> There's only marginal Audi content here, but this does involve the "extended family", so here goes. Made a deal last week, I'll wire your car, you give me the motorcycle you want to sell. Deal accepted. Car is a 1975 Porsche 914. Very probably the fastest one (in a straight line, at least) in the known universe. It has been gutted, five-bolt hubs from a 911 installed, and the 2.0 flat four is history - a great big Chevrolet V-8 of about 475 hp is sitting there . . . cam, headwork, fuel injection, Mallory ignition and fuel injection computer, headers, the *full* good-ole-boy hotrod treatment, with cost as no object (the guy can afford it - easily). It has been driven about 200 miles already, so it runs. Task at hand is to re-wire the car. I'm about half done. This is actually pretty easy when all the old wiring and interior are gone, and I'm starting with a clean slate and someone else's evidently bottomless wallet. The fee is one 1975 Hercules (sold as DKW - there's the other family connection) W2000 wankel powered motorcycle, 97% complete, in several large boxes. Brought it home in two trips in the type 44 - no problem. And I am NOT going for a test drive when his 914 is finished - that thing SCARES me! Best Regards, Mike Arman From MAGUID at MAIN.DJJ.STATE.SC.US Tue Jan 7 10:22:37 2003 From: MAGUID at MAIN.DJJ.STATE.SC.US (Michael Guidotti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway Message-ID: yea the focus is GREAT in the snow, I hear if you have the traction control/ stability control system its even better. I miss snow too, (from NY, in SC now) but the nice thing is that its 50 out right now and I am going for a bike ride after work =) Mike >>> "Dave Arkle" 01/06/03 10:57PM >>> Hi all; My ex has a base-model Focus and I thought it rocked out in the snow. But I'm guessing that since you're complaining about no traction control or ABS you're not from snow country, so I forgive you :). BTW my present gf has a Hyundai Accent 5spd, and that thing is absolutely unstopable in the white stuff, considering it has cheesy all-season tires. Driving that thing in snow reminds me of the teenage years when I'd go out and drive around with my friends for hours on end whenever it snowed just because it's so fun.... I had a 76 B210 back then, and to this day I have never had a car that was as all-around perfect in snow as it was (RWD btw). Ya, I'm including my old 5KTQ... Of course, living in KY now suck issues are behind me. Anyone for a motorcycle ride? lol... Dave Arkle DoD #11011 96 Daytona 1200 84 V65 Sabre 67 Buick LeSabre On the hunt for an Audi TQ... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Levitt" To: "Qlist" ; "s-car list" Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:30 PM Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs while snow is within 400 miles, TURN THEM DOWN. Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they went with the economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along with no ABS, no traction control, and the thing is completely unusable in the snow. And we only have a dusting! It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the slightest pressure on the go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. Lee '95.5 S6 avant '96 A6 quattro avant From frank at zk3.dec.com Tue Jan 7 10:32:23 2003 From: frank at zk3.dec.com (Douglas Frank) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: WTB: Beetle wheels (NAC) Message-ID: <3E1AF307.1010007@zk3.dec.com> Haudi, I'm in the market for a set of 4, OEM steel wheels to fit a '00 New Beetle GL (that's a 15 inch wheel, ah b'lieve). I just want the wheels, you can keep your old tires. :-) I'm located in southern NH and will come by to pick up if you're reasonably close. thanks! -- Douglas Frank DigitalWhoopsCompaqImeanHP Co. ZKO 110 Spit Brook Rd. The older I get, 603-884-0501 Nashua, NH USA 03062 the better I was. From Peterl at Warn.com Tue Jan 7 07:34:21 2003 From: Peterl at Warn.com (Lines Peter) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? Message-ID: I recently put some Blizzak snow tires on some cheap black steel wheels that I bought at a local tire store. My car is an '86 4kq. I had trouble finding 4x108 wheels, but once I started asking for the "Ford pattern" there were lots of wheels available. The only problem I had is that the diameter in the center was larger than my hub. Audis are designed to by hubcentric, meaning that this diameter should fit snugly for proper wheel fit. I used the wheels for about 250 miles before making some simple aluminum spacers to fill the gap (I have access to a machine shop). The inner dia. of the Ford wheel is 63mm and the outer Audi hub diameter is 57mm. The spacer is about 15mm wide and has a slight flare on the OD that fits behind the wheel so they won't fall out. Most people will have strong opinions about whether these spacers are actually necessary. I tend to err on the safe side and it only took me like 2 hours to make the spacers, so what the heck... Some people have mentioned that plastic spacers can be bought from various wheel suppliers, but I don't trust plastic anywhere near the brakes my car. The other thing you want to watch out for is the offset. Offset is the side to side spacing between the mounting surface and the centerline of the wheel. I suggest (as someone else did) having a wheel bolted up and check. Make sure to try it on the front and turn the steering side to side with the car on the ground, if possible. Last thing, since Audis use wheel bolts instead of studs, you have to watch out for wheel thickness. I mean the part where the bolt goes through. If the wheel is alot thinner than the stock Audi wheel, then your bolts will stick too far through the back of the hub and could cause damage. Shorter wheel bolts are available at the dealer (and maybe aftermarket) for VAG cars with steel wheels. My car didn't need shorter bolts, though. HTH! Peter Lines From maytagasm at sympatico.ca Tue Jan 7 10:52:45 2003 From: maytagasm at sympatico.ca (luke) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: where to put a boost guage and my new oil lines Message-ID: <006d01c2b664$d2b11280$ded1a4cf@g1d7z0> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] hello everyone... been away from internet for a few weeks (moved back home with ma and pa :() i had to get a flatbed to tow my car here but since then ive fixed it up. i mounted my new oil cooler (a tru-cool unit) directy under my licence plat= e, half of it exposed in the bottom grill, the other half hidden by the bum= per. its upside down so the oil going into the cooler gets the most air. it= uses rubber 3/8 hose which goes to two earl's -6 a.n. to 3/8 barb adapters= , which connect to 16m x1.5 adapters. my car had (stock) 18mx1.5 to 16m x1.= 5 adapters. i thought the mc engines used 18m but i think mine might be spe= cial in using the 16m (kh). the metric adapters arent too perty... especially compared to the red and b= lue aluminum piece from earls... but they look shiney and new and !dont lea= k! i purchased them from a local hydraulic shop. if anyone is having a hard ti= me finding these parts (i did until i knew where to look) lemme know and il= l help get them to you. i ended up paying a whopping $60 cdn... :( at the same time i bought a badly needed boost gauge, but dont know where t= o install it... i guess i could experiment with vacuum lines... but which o= nes are best? do any of the ones from the wastegate work? im kinda baffled.= .=2E i also put a new voltage regulator in which i think runs high 13s almost 14= , which i got for $20 cdn made by unipoint. if anyone wants one of these to= o ill get one fer ya :) my old one was so rusted it only worked 40% of the = time :) hopefully ill have some pics of my car and new oil lines soon...' thanks to everyone who gave me oil line ideas... now time to go out and try to figure out where a boost gauge can go... luke 90tq -- From auditude at cox.net Tue Jan 7 11:30:37 2003 From: auditude at cox.net (auditude@cox.net) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wheel bolt length for locks/aftermarket wheels? Message-ID: <20030107163037.ZDMM27125.fed1mtao04.cox.net@smtp.west.cox.net> Hello, Does anyone know what wheel bolt length I should be using to bolt on a set of TSW's on a Coupe GT? I want to buy some locks, but an unclear as to the correct length. When I have access later on, I can measure the lug bolts I have, but I don't have access to them right now. I believe the wheel bolts are 17mm hex, M14 x 1.50mm thread pattern, right? Thanks, Ken From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 08:49:45 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: where to put a boost guage and my new oil lines In-Reply-To: <006d01c2b664$d2b11280$ded1a4cf@g1d7z0> Message-ID: <20030107164945.47108.qmail@web20009.mail.yahoo.com> --- luke wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > at the same time i bought a badly needed boost > gauge, but dont know where to install it... i guess > i could experiment with vacuum lines... but which > ones are best? do any of the ones from the wastegate > work? im kinda baffled... I have my guage on the same line as the ECU, but I may change that since the added line volume may be slowing down the reaction to changes. It really doesn't matter to much where you get it from as long as it's not behind a check valve. The WG hose would be my last choice though because of it's size, but a T in one of the little hoses right before it on that little manifold works well. HTH, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From iin10ded at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 17:11:43 2003 From: iin10ded at hotmail.com (j fizz) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? Message-ID: yeah i met chris at the last local get together. i remember the lightning. i think this guy works off bayshore, ive seen the car around before. theres another white urs4 back over there too.. jim >From: JShadzi@aol.com >To: quattrofan@sbcglobal.net, iin10ded@hotmail.com, quattro@audifans.com >Subject: Re: lister sighting [urs4] in burlingame, ca? >Date: Mon, 06 Jan 2003 22:10:19 -0500 > >Mike, I think you're talking about Chris Leal, but that wasn't his car Jim >saw, Chris's car isn't on the street right now, I've seen this other guy >around, never met him though. We blasted through some traffic on El Camino >one day but I had to turn and he kept going straight, seemed to be quick >enough. > >Javad > >In a message dated 1/6/2003 9:58:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, >quattrofan@sbcglobal.net writes: > > > > > Jim, > > > > I know which car you are talking about, I can't remember the guys name >for > > the life of me. I am pretty sure he is not on the list though. He >lives in > > Santa Clara and works a few buildings away from mine in San Jose. He >also > > has a sliver Ford F150 Lightning with a small Audi Sport sticker on the >back > > window. I used to live two blocks away from him and we chatted a few >times, > > I would always see him on the way to work. That urS4 is heavily modded >as I > > remember. He used to have a bunch of 2Bennet stickers on > > it. > > > > -Mike Robinson > > 1988 90q SS 245,000+ mi _________________________________________________________________ Help STOP SPAM: Try the new MSN 8 and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From QSHIPQ at aol.com Tue Jan 7 12:28:30 2003 From: QSHIPQ at aol.com (QSHIPQ@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Preview of Detroit Auto Show Message-ID: <21.29c9bb57.2b4c683e@aol.com> Family member does lighting, I became an official "assistant" during setup last week. Detroit makes the biggest splash stateside, cuz they get 2 full months for setup. To put it in perspective, Chicago gets a few days setup, and less for teardown. Top Ten: * Coolest car covers: AUDI. All cars on the floor came in custom model fitted armani classy soft suits, including sewn in windows, zippered openings for doors and gas cap, and all had open front windshields. 25+ years of auto shows, that was downright cool. * Best presentation: Ford had a huge oval above their 90,000 sq feet (second in sq/ft only to GM) of the various marques under the umbrella. * Biggest surprise: 300hp 4.2 v8 on display next to a black VW 'taurus' (the forrester job) so equipped. You could live with the quirky looking front end for 300ponies. This should steal some sales from the lexus RX.300 * Best in person: VW cab, even in putty, not bad. turbo too. * Best display: Mini cooper in rally colors/trim with vintage rally background scene, a great flashback to the old rally days. Their emailable portrait ("let's mini") with you behind the wheel of an S, a nice touch. * Big splash: The "don't touch" nazis around the Hummer1/2's was... oxmoronic? That said, the ditch display with the H1 right front tire suspended 5 feet off the ground was very creative. * Best looker: The D-chrysler 2 door coupe, just the right machine at a time when the Z4 takes a step in the wrong direction (IMO) * Best dressed: The fully chromed and cutaway DOHC v8 in the ford booth, even the bolts were anodized, and the cam chain chromed. The detail was awesome to those into what it took to make (I see Tom Nas drooling for this toy). My host informed me that it ran in the 70k range.... * Quote of the day: Spin those babies. More rotating platforms than I've ever seen. Even Saturn had no less that 5, including the center kiosk. Got dizzy, went back to the cooper S display. * Best hope: RS6 at the front of the audi booth, sitting on tongue and groove oak flooring: the former a realized pipe dream from audi, the latter in sitsu yet to be realized pipe dream (permission on either will be a tough sell to our wive's). That's ten, including audi content, yes the R8 was well placed against the wall 2.5 stories above the floor. Big money spent this year, lot's of debut's, should be well worth the visit. Scott Justusson luminary assistant, emeritus From larichard at compagnonderoute.ca Tue Jan 7 12:55:25 2003 From: larichard at compagnonderoute.ca (Louis-Alain Richard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wheel bolt length... and seating surface Message-ID: I will ring for a warning I am sure everybody here is aware, but anyway Audi and VW use wheel bolts, right, but the seating surface is ball-seat, as opposed to every other manufacturer (at least here in NA) which use cone-seat bolts-nuts. So, in addition to bolt length, you must be careful about the shape of the wheel/bolts/lock/nut you buy for your VAG product. >Does anyone know what wheel bolt length I should be using to bolt on a set of TSW's on a Coupe GT? I want to buy some locks, but an unclear as to the correct length. >When I have access later on, I can measure the lug bolts I have, but I don't have access to them right now. >I believe the wheel bolts are 17mm hex, M14 x 1.50mm thread pattern, right? >Thanks, >Ken From msvphoto at pacbell.net Tue Jan 7 10:13:58 2003 From: msvphoto at pacbell.net (Mike Veglia) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner Message-ID: <00bc01c2b678$8c6bc900$1f00a8c0@mike> In a message dated 1/6/2003 Ti Kan writes: << Our local Fry's Electronics has a bunch of them sitting on the shelf. I didn't look at the price, but I'll bet it's less than $45. >> I saw stacks of them at Costco before X-Mas too, not sure if they are still around though. Mike Veglia Motor Sport Visions Photography http://www.motorsportvisions.com From iceisit at earthlink.net Tue Jan 7 13:55:46 2003 From: iceisit at earthlink.net (Ice Cat ^. .^) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Power steering . . .UPDATE & Question In-Reply-To: <01f201c2b619$b2a21700$b97ba8c0@RAPID> References: <01f201c2b619$b2a21700$b97ba8c0@RAPID> Message-ID: My husband took everything apart and the lines and filters are clear. It seems that there is a little pressure valve of some sort inside the power steering pump and if that is off a little bit the steering will get a little more heavy. So we can only drive one car at this point in time because of the cost of insurance while he is out of work. So since his '88 5000 doesn't drive well at all I suggested he take that pump apart for practice to replace the little pressure valve. Then when he figures out how it should be taken apart and put back together he will be up to speed on the car we are currently driving. Has anyone done this ? Fay '89 Audi 200 Turbo (No Q) Automatic '88 Audi 5000 S Auto '87 Audi 5000 S Auto http://home.earthlink.net/~iceisit/ From Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk Tue Jan 7 19:08:54 2003 From: Jim at Ur-q.freeserve.co.uk (Jim Haseltine) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi type 44 aircraft . . . References: <3.0.3.16.20030107103425.3cd78ce8@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <008501c2b680$5d55fa20$2d2c883e@JIM> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Arman" > > > Reading the following exchange brought a smile to my face - "Yup, Clem, > these here helicopter parts are genuine Audi!" > Citroen used to build helicopters (still might do) - this being a company who would fix a lightweight flap to a car with 14 2mm screws of a diameter so small that watch makers have difficulty fitting them yet mount wings (fenders) with 1 'king big bolt. Regards, Jim Haseltine From tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca Tue Jan 7 11:12:27 2003 From: tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca (tihol_tiholov@sd27.bc.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Ford Wheels on a Coupe? Message-ID: Try this: http://www.tyresave.co.uk/fitment.html It shows the bore on the Ford as too big to do the hubcentric thing - spacers are needed to rectify this. Greetings, Tihol From tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca Tue Jan 7 11:02:46 2003 From: tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca (tihol_tiholov@sd27.bc.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/conversion_home3.html Message-ID: >Outstanding job! Agreed. Why two O2 bungs? Greetings, Tihol From larichard at compagnonderoute.ca Tue Jan 7 14:44:54 2003 From: larichard at compagnonderoute.ca (Louis-Alain Richard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: K26 turbo Message-ID: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Read last night a paper on the 2003 S60R from Ovlov; they say the usual Garrett turbo is now replaced by a K26 KKK unit. Is this the same unit Audi put on our models, years ago? Louis-Alain -- From spokes at the-wire.com Tue Jan 7 14:56:48 2003 From: spokes at the-wire.com (Dave Hord) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: speaking of focus wheels...anyone want any? Message-ID: <1041969408.3e1b31009f61c@webmail.the-wire.com> Ray Felice, one of our sponsored rally teams is selling some wheels from their Focus Rally car. http://www.bensrallypage.com/misc_forsale/felice_wheels.html If anyone is interested, and needs a third opinion on condition I'd be willing to help out/digital photograph. I think I might pick up a set for myself, so since I need to go over there...might as well help out any of you if I can. Yeah I know him...but all the usual disclamers apply!! -Dave --------------------------------------------------- 89 90q 300km+ Rally Conversion... Roll cage shots available at: http://home.the-wire.com/~spokes/rollcage/page1.htm From nick at beol.net Tue Jan 7 14:57:38 2003 From: nick at beol.net (Nick Lawrence) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: noise from '90 200tqa Message-ID: <000801c2b687$087daf50$e64d1cd8@pitney> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Vehicle is '90 200 tqa with 162k miles. The noise is a whine or moan coming from underside in the middle I think. H= appens when car is moving, changes sound only slightly with speed change, b= ut only audible 'till about 45mph. Not affected by load or whether car is = in or out gear. Not always present. It did this noise last spring for a short while then gone for several thous= and miles. Any suggestions? What noise may come from the center differential? TIA Nick Lawrence -- From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Tue Jan 7 20:58:29 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: [urq] K26 turbo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030107205127.01f0bba8@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Louis-Alain, I seriously doubt the turbo would be the same but that's very interesting to know that a turbo able to put out 300HP in stock form and torque at just 1900 RPM in a 2.3l engine is a K26... I suppose Volvo revised the design a lot in order to achieve such a good turbo and I'd sure like to know if it can be adapted to my Audi.... Why go RS2 when you can have a K26 that has better low-end response? And though I bet the difference due to displacement won't even be noticeable, however one thing makes me stop and think.... I know for sure Volvo have VVT (as in variable valve timing) because my company (Aisin Europe S.A. in Belgium, part of the Toyota Motor Group) makes the system.... and that could make a serious difference in the low RPM torque... Well, I'm going off topic now but I hope I won't get flamed for saying I work for a japanese company, don't get me wrong guys, the quattros are the best cars ever made IMHO and no Toyota will ever beat them but this company was the only one in the Automotive industry that wanted to hire me and they pay me correctly... But I'll never agree with my colleagues when they say "yeah, the new Corolla is great!" :-))))) My usual answer for such provocating words is "yeah right, keep on driving a car that's been made to last 150k miles and I'll keep on driving my car that has been made to drive safely and with pleasure for 300k" :-))) Mihnea At 14:44 7/01/2003 -0500, Louis-Alain Richard wrote: >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >-- >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] >Read last night a paper on the 2003 S60R from Ovlov; they say the usual >Garrett turbo is now replaced by a K26 KKK unit. >Is this the same unit Audi put on our models, years ago? > >Louis-Alain >-- > >_______________________________________________ >Audifans urq mailing list >Send posts to: mailto:urq@audifans.com >Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/urq From Peterl at Warn.com Tue Jan 7 12:08:54 2003 From: Peterl at Warn.com (Lines Peter) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: bilsteins struts for '93 90q Message-ID: Anyone every find Bilstein struts to fit the front or rear of a '93 90quattro? Part Numbers? TIA! -Peter From pizzoman at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 12:11:35 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: [urq] K26 turbo In-Reply-To: <5.2.0.9.0.20030107205127.01f0bba8@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Message-ID: <20030107201135.2139.qmail@web20808.mail.yahoo.com> So, when is the Supra returning? :-) --- Mihnea Cotet wrote: > Louis-Alain, > > > I seriously doubt the turbo would be the same but > that's very interesting > to know that a turbo able to put out 300HP in stock > form and torque at just > 1900 RPM in a 2.3l engine is a K26... I suppose > Volvo revised the design a > lot in order to achieve such a good turbo and I'd > sure like to know if it > can be adapted to my Audi.... Why go RS2 when you > can have a K26 that has > better low-end response? And though I bet the > difference due to > displacement won't even be noticeable, however one > thing makes me stop and > think.... I know for sure Volvo have VVT (as in > variable valve timing) > because my company (Aisin Europe S.A. in Belgium, > part of the Toyota Motor > Group) makes the system.... and that could make a > serious difference in the > low RPM torque... > > Well, I'm going off topic now but I hope I won't get > flamed for saying I > work for a japanese company, don't get me wrong > guys, the quattros are the > best cars ever made IMHO and no Toyota will ever > beat them but this company > was the only one in the Automotive industry that > wanted to hire me and they > pay me correctly... But I'll never agree with my > colleagues when they say > "yeah, the new Corolla is great!" :-))))) My usual > answer for such > provocating words is "yeah right, keep on driving a > car that's been made to > last 150k miles and I'll keep on driving my car that > has been made to drive > safely and with pleasure for 300k" :-))) > > Mihnea > > At 14:44 7/01/2003 -0500, Louis-Alain Richard wrote: > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >-- > >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > >Read last night a paper on the 2003 S60R from > Ovlov; they say the usual > >Garrett turbo is now replaced by a K26 KKK unit. > >Is this the same unit Audi put on our models, years > ago? > > > >Louis-Alain > >-- > > > >_______________________________________________ > >Audifans urq mailing list > >Send posts to: mailto:urq@audifans.com > >Manage your list connection: > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/urq > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From mik at info.fundp.ac.be Tue Jan 7 21:24:58 2003 From: mik at info.fundp.ac.be (Mihnea Cotet) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: [urq] K26 turbo In-Reply-To: <20030107201135.2139.qmail@web20808.mail.yahoo.com> References: <5.2.0.9.0.20030107205127.01f0bba8@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> Message-ID: <5.2.0.9.0.20030107212426.01ef3eb0@backus.info.fundp.ac.be> WTF is a Supra? :-)))))) heck, I really dunno and I really don't care either :-)))) Mihnea At 12:11 7/01/2003 -0800, Joseph Pizzimenti wrote: >So, when is the Supra returning? :-) >--- Mihnea Cotet wrote: > > Louis-Alain, > > > > > > I seriously doubt the turbo would be the same but > > that's very interesting > > to know that a turbo able to put out 300HP in stock > > form and torque at just > > 1900 RPM in a 2.3l engine is a K26... I suppose > > Volvo revised the design a > > lot in order to achieve such a good turbo and I'd > > sure like to know if it > > can be adapted to my Audi.... Why go RS2 when you > > can have a K26 that has > > better low-end response? And though I bet the > > difference due to > > displacement won't even be noticeable, however one > > thing makes me stop and > > think.... I know for sure Volvo have VVT (as in > > variable valve timing) > > because my company (Aisin Europe S.A. in Belgium, > > part of the Toyota Motor > > Group) makes the system.... and that could make a > > serious difference in the > > low RPM torque... > > > > Well, I'm going off topic now but I hope I won't get > > flamed for saying I > > work for a japanese company, don't get me wrong > > guys, the quattros are the > > best cars ever made IMHO and no Toyota will ever > > beat them but this company > > was the only one in the Automotive industry that > > wanted to hire me and they > > pay me correctly... But I'll never agree with my > > colleagues when they say > > "yeah, the new Corolla is great!" :-))))) My usual > > answer for such > > provocating words is "yeah right, keep on driving a > > car that's been made to > > last 150k miles and I'll keep on driving my car that > > has been made to drive > > safely and with pleasure for 300k" :-))) > > > > Mihnea > > > > At 14:44 7/01/2003 -0500, Louis-Alain Richard wrote: > > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > > >-- > > >[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > >Read last night a paper on the 2003 S60R from > > Ovlov; they say the usual > > >Garrett turbo is now replaced by a K26 KKK unit. > > >Is this the same unit Audi put on our models, years > > ago? > > > > > >Louis-Alain > > >-- > > > > > >_______________________________________________ > > >Audifans urq mailing list > > >Send posts to: mailto:urq@audifans.com > > >Manage your list connection: > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/urq > > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. >http://mailplus.yahoo.com From rizov_d at shaw.ca Tue Jan 7 13:32:15 2003 From: rizov_d at shaw.ca (Dobromir Rizov) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Driveshaft support bearing - 4 ksq Message-ID: <001d01c2b68b$ddecaca0$1802a8c0@heavymetal> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Hello, I've got a grinding(squealing) noise a 2 weeks ago and today it was identified as driveshaft support bearing and u-joint noise. What is the urgency to replace the bearing? I was told that if bearing seizes it will damage the rubber holder(case). The rubber part could not be find!? Should I speed up with repairs (costly) or to shop for options? What are my options for parts and actions here? (I look at H. Powell's page :http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tricks.htm#shaft. The info is regarding replacement parts. What about Audi's parts? ) Thx, Dobby From patrick_opsahl at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 13:18:23 2003 From: patrick_opsahl at hotmail.com (Patrick Opsahl) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Window Switch Cleaning/Replacement? Message-ID: The electric windows are giving trouble on my 1998 A6 Quattro. Window goes down fine but does not want to go back up. Sometime I can get it up by repeatedly pulling the up button and sometimes I have to resort to pulling the window up with one hand and holding the up button with the other. Is the problem the switch? Can it be cleaned or should it be replaced? Patrick Opsahl Riverbank, CA _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From zsolt1 at telusplanet.net Tue Jan 7 14:37:45 2003 From: zsolt1 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Koni Sport adjustment question References: Message-ID: <3E1B48A9.4040204@telusplanet.net> Finally after Koni recalled my rear shocks they are sending me the replacement ones. (only took them 4 months) I am considering cranking them up 50% both front and back. I am wondering though, if the front ones should be stiffer since most of the weight is there. The springs are H&R. What do you guys think? Thanks, Zsolt 88 5k tq From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 14:00:21 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/conversion_home3.html In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030107220021.4028.qmail@web20009.mail.yahoo.com> --- tihol_tiholov@sd27.bc.ca wrote: > > >Outstanding job! > > Agreed. Why two O2 bungs? Why not? One is for the gauge, the other is for the ECU. The real reason for having two is so I can easily add a Wide Band O2 in the future. ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 14:16:16 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: quattro digest, Vol 1 #4424 - Snow tire "hardening" In-Reply-To: <000901c2b5e7$f37acf60$6400a8c0@newpc> Message-ID: <20030107221616.38094.qmail@web40712.mail.yahoo.com> --- TM wrote: > I've yet to drive the NRWs in real nice powder snow, > all I can say is > that > they're dicey in deep slush and they're too wide for > the car > (225/45R17). > > Taka > Wow! No kidding. You want narrower in winter. "Pizza cutters" my friend from Boulder used to call them. I just watched the WRC of Finland? Anyway it was in snow and I was amazed how tall and thin the tires were. Good luck with those rafts. Jim Accordino __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 14:24:37 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: wife's car in the shop - Ford BoreUs in the driveway In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030107222437.88688.qmail@web40703.mail.yahoo.com> The ironic thing about that is that I "think" the car spinning by out of control in VWs 4Motion commerical was infact a Tauri. Jim Accordino ps-I think rental companies use the cheapest, hardest tires. Found that out in the wet also. --- Lee Levitt wrote: > If a rental agency ever offers you a Ford BoreUs > while snow is within 400 > miles, TURN THEM DOWN. > > Gawd, does this thing suck in the snow. I think they > went with the > economy/no tread/hi mileage tires, and that, along > with no ABS, no traction > control, and the thing is completely unusable in the > snow. > And we only have a dusting! > > It will happily spin (or lock) its wheels with the > slightest pressure on the > go or stop pedal. Amazing. Criminal. > > Lee > '95.5 S6 avant > '96 A6 quattro avant > > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From printhead at usinternet.com Tue Jan 7 17:42:52 2003 From: printhead at usinternet.com (Tom Leppke-Hennig) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Bilsteins for 93 90q Message-ID: <20030107224322.1BC4E5AB@www.audifans.com> Lines Peter asked: Anyone every find Bilstein struts to fit the front or rear of a '93 90quattro? Part Numbers? TIA! -Peter --__--__-- Peter, I too, have been on the hunt for 'steins for my 93-95 90q.(1995 in my case). In all of my hunting around, I have come to the conclusion that we are out of luck. I think I even called up Bilstein, once, on the lists recommendation. They were knowledgeable and thorough, even knowing the car well enough to know that 93-95s were unique in the rear only. (ie., you can put the Bilsteins from a previous generation (88-91 80-90) into the front of our cars.) But they were not, at the time, planning a shock for the rear. The contact at 'Stein stated that production quantities were to low to justify the project. So, where does that leave us? If you look carefully at your rear shocks, you may still be able to read the original Boge Turbo-Gas logo and a Boge part number. Cool. Write it down, get on the phone and call the knowledgeable and helpful Boge tech-support line. "Oh, I see, that is an OEM number. Looks like we manufacture that part for VAG. We can't sell that. Thanks for calling." Call the dealer. Ouch. Shockingly expensive. How about some of the part supplier-dot-coms? Better, but still really expensive. The conclusion I have come to is Koni shocks. They offer shocks for all four corners of our unique little 90s, at about 150.00 each. Steep, but a fine price compared to the other options. The thing preventing me from taking the leap is a lack of testimonials on Koni shocks. Anybody out there have anything good or bad to say about Koni? How about Koni specifically installed in the 93-95 90-series? Tom LH 1995 90q From ssgacc at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 14:46:36 2003 From: ssgacc at yahoo.com (james accordino) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi type 44 aircraft . . . In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.16.20030107103425.3cd78ce8@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20030107224636.36376.qmail@web40707.mail.yahoo.com> You mean like the UH-60 Blackhawk aka the "ground magnet" or "lawn dart"? I used to dread flying in these things. Most guys loved them, cause they were so quiet and smooth. I'll take the Huey every time. Jim Accordino --- Mike Arman wrote: > > > Reading the following exchange brought a smile to my > face - "Yup, Clem, > these here helicopter parts are genuine Audi!" > > > Seriously now, if the type 44 Audi was an airplane, > would YOU fly in one? > (Insert tongue in cheek emoticon here) > > > Alternatively, if the type 44 Audi were a > helicopter, would you want to be > anywhere near one when it started up? > > > We should be very thankful indeed that we are just > complaining about team > doorhandle instead of team main rotor blades or team > landing gear, or maybe > even team ejection seat . . . __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From MXHOWES at aol.com Tue Jan 7 18:04:29 2003 From: MXHOWES at aol.com (MXHOWES@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Stuck? electric window regulator motor Message-ID: <84.6994704.2b4cb6fd@aol.com> My rear window is stuck closed (luckely). I am getting power thru the switch, I have continuinty on the two leads going to the motor and when I apply power to the leads in either up or down it draws current and there is a slight clunk. I assume that the window or cable or gear drive is stuck. I cannot find any info on electric window regulator troubleshooting or removal in my Bently therefore I must ask.... 1. Can the motor be removed or disengaged without removing the cable and it's attachment to the window? I can see some sort of brass adjustment(?) screw on the drive housing. It looks like I must have the window down to get at the cable/window attachment. Thanks, Jim From eyvind.spangen at c2i.net Wed Jan 8 00:06:46 2003 From: eyvind.spangen at c2i.net (Eyvind Spangen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Cylinder head/head gasket problems Message-ID: I have pulled the head on the 90q today. 4 missing exhaust manifold studs, lots of rotten rubber hoses etc. But the biggest problem: I can't see any defects on the head gasket.. BUT I can see a hairline crack in the head at cylinder #5.. The crack is not between the valves. What is possible? Can that extremely small crack cause the problems, or is it likely that the head gasket was leaking, but not so much that I could see it? I'll send the head to a machine shop tomorrow to make sure it's flat before I put it back on, if it ever gets back on.. I'll let them pressure test it to find any possible leaks, but it'd be great to hear something from you in here too.. I thought that the I5 gasoline engines were pretty tough, and that a small overheat (driven 2 minutes without much coolant in -20 degrees C) would not cause head problems.. -- E. Spangen '86 Audi 100 2.2 CS quattro From zsolt1 at telusplanet.net Tue Jan 7 16:49:13 2003 From: zsolt1 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Koni Sport adjustment question References: <3E1B48A9.4040204@telusplanet.net> Message-ID: <3E1B6779.8050709@telusplanet.net> Further to the adjustment... is there an easy way to do that or am I going to have to take them almost out. Thanks again Zsolt Zsolt wrote: > Finally after Koni recalled my rear shocks they are sending me the > replacement ones. (only took them 4 months) > > I am considering cranking them up 50% both front and back. I am > wondering though, if the front ones should be stiffer since most of the > weight is there. The springs are H&R. > > What do you guys think? > > Thanks, > Zsolt > 88 5k tq > > From JShadzi at aol.com Tue Jan 7 19:23:26 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Bilsteins for 93 90q Message-ID: <27DE87C1.596A9D17.0016D39D@aol.com> I will vouch for Konis "generally speaking", don't have any direct experience with the B4 90 esp.in the rear, but I've had Bilsteins fail over and over, never had a problem with a Koni, I'd take the Konis even if Bilstein made some shocks. The Koni is a great shock, plus the lifetime warranty doesn't hurt either. Javad > >Anyone every find Bilstein struts to fit the front or rear of a '93 >90quattro? ?Part Numbers? ?TIA! >-Peter > >--__--__-- > >Peter, I too, have been on the hunt for 'steins for my 93-95 90q.(1995 in >my case). In all of my hunting around, I have come to the conclusion that >we are out of luck. I think I even called up Bilstein, once, on the lists >recommendation. They were knowledgeable and thorough, even knowing the >car well enough to know that 93-95s were unique in the rear only. (ie., >you can put the Bilsteins from a previous generation (88-91 80-90) into >the front of our cars.) > >But they were not, at the time, planning a shock for the rear. The >contact at 'Stein stated that production quantities were to low to >justify the project. > >So, where does that leave us? If you look carefully at your rear shocks, >you may still be able to read the original Boge Turbo-Gas logo and a Boge >part number. Cool. Write it down, get on the phone and call the >knowledgeable and helpful Boge tech-support line. "Oh, I see, that is an >OEM number. Looks like we manufacture that part for VAG. We can't sell >that. Thanks for calling." > >Call the dealer. Ouch. Shockingly expensive. How about some of the part >supplier-dot-coms? Better, but still really expensive. > >The conclusion I have come to is Koni shocks. They offer shocks for all >four corners of our unique little 90s, at about 150.00 each. Steep, but a >fine price compared to the other options. > >The thing preventing me from taking the leap is a lack of testimonials on >Koni shocks. > >Anybody out there have anything good or bad to say about Koni? How about >Koni specifically installed in the 93-95 90-series? > >Tom LH >1995 90q > > > From benwalker at direcway.com Tue Jan 7 19:02:01 2003 From: benwalker at direcway.com (Ben Walker) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: 1990 90 nonQ woes Message-ID: <000201c2b6b1$dbd98ed0$8b71140a@bennie8d42ncic> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Thanks in advance for te help on this one. 1990 Audi 90 5cyl. non Quattro n= on tubo 10v. I took the warnings of the improper oil filter to heart and d= ecided to finally switch to the Moile 1 5W30 oil and a Wix filter (with che= ck valve) and a new air filter. Of course the oil and air filter went in w= ithout too much trouble, gotta love that air filter compartment! While in that area I decided to also try to tackle the ISV valve - or what = I thought was the ISV valve. This is where I should start asking questions= . The valve on top of the air box is the air flow meter - does not appear = to have an electrical connection but it does accept fuel. Moved on to a so= lenoid valve located between the port and the intake. Two vacuum hoses and = a wire connector - very corroded. No part number on it. I decide to clean= it with carb cleaner and use a vacuum tester. Pumped to 100 PSI lost all = pressure within 2 seconds. The apparent part number is 034-906-283E. I put everything back together except the crankcase ventilation tube (it wa= s collapsed) and went to start the car. It had a hard time with idle. Con= cerned the fuel delivery system had lost some prime I took it out for a 2 m= ile hard drive. Response was perfect on throttle, auto trans shifting flaw= lessly. Brought it back and it idled at below 1000RPM for the first time i= n 2 months. Running smooth and idled without any problems until I shut it = off and let it sit an hour -now it acts as if it is not getting fuel at all= - all cylinders are producing spark new fuel pump humming along. Tried capping off the solenoid valve mentioned above but still no start. T= oo darn cold to have these problems. I know the problem has to be a simple= one :-P. Thought I would throw this one out here and see if anyone had a= ny technical advice of if I should send this one to the Audi Gods for resol= ution. Ben 1990 Audi 90 NON ANYTHING - included bu not limited to fire. -- From kfahlgren at wooster.edu Tue Jan 7 21:31:51 2003 From: kfahlgren at wooster.edu (Keith Fahlgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Bulb Condoms? Message-ID: Hi All, After just relaying my lights (thanks Huw) I'd like to move on to putting in my radio (a Blaupunkt) rather than the one that's in the car (which also is a Blaupunkt). The reason the existing one is still in is because the green display has been turned red (by my brother). The way to do this is with "bulb condoms." I have no idea where to find these things or what they're called. I think about a month ago somebody (Ti?) mentioned them and I made sure to save the post. Of course, I can't find it anywhere now, including the archives. Any suggestions? TIA, Keith From clerick44 at earthlink.net Tue Jan 7 20:48:06 2003 From: clerick44 at earthlink.net (jesse) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: speedo....no go. Message-ID: <001e01c2b6c0$62d641e0$eae0020a@ours> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] I know there were some issues with the 90's having trouble with the cir= cuit film behind the cluster. Is there a similar problem with the 4K's? Th= e speedo was intermitent for a while, now completely kaput. There also app= ears to be a "check engine" icon there too, which has NEVER lit since i hav= e had the car. I am also still trying to track down the lopeing idle. I sprayed all o= ver the place with engine starting fluid, no air leaks. But i have noticed= that the problem only occurs once the car has warmed up a little. Someone= told me to check the ignition timing? Any other places to check? Lastly, is there a source for A-pillar gage pods that anyone knows of? Thank you yet again, Jesse Erickson "Pizza God" -- From abuc at attglobal.net Tue Jan 7 18:51:30 2003 From: abuc at attglobal.net (Andrew Buc) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Audi type 44 aircraft . . . In-Reply-To: <3.0.3.16.20030107103425.3cd78ce8@mail.earthlink.net> References: <3.0.3.16.20030107103425.3cd78ce8@mail.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20030108025200.7B0F940F@www.audifans.com> ** Reply to message from Mike Arman on Tue, 07 Jan 2003 10:34:25 > Alternatively, if the type 44 Audi were a helicopter, would you want to be > anywhere near one when it started up? I can see it now--the Vic Morrow Special Edition! Some years ago I suggested half-seriously to a Boeing employee (I live in Seattle) that since I liked my Saab 96 and Saab is an aircraft mfr, maybe Boeing should get into the car biz. He laughed and said, "No, you wouldn't want a Boeing car!" From quattrofan at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 7 19:09:30 2003 From: quattrofan at sbcglobal.net (Mike Robinson) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Tail light removal question Message-ID: Hi all, What is the best way to remove the tail lights? On my 90q the gasket seems pretty solid and I can not pull off the tail lights. I am installing a set of European Smoked tail lights and I suppose I need smaller gaskets. I may try the old hair drier trick to melt down the gaskets. I need to keep the originals so I need to be careful not to break or crack the plastic. TIA -Mike Robinson 88 90q From theloves at localaccess.com Tue Jan 7 19:34:38 2003 From: theloves at localaccess.com (The Loves) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: VW QSW info request Message-ID: <00a701c2b6c6$dfca4470$9423d540@tom> Hi all, I am looking at a syncro wagon and have a few questions for those with the experience. To keep the band width in reason, contact me personally. My quattro content? I'm keeping the urq and the 4kq. Just need something to haul the stuff around and still feel like a quattro driver. Thanks all From billzcat1 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 7 20:15:32 2003 From: billzcat1 at hotmail.com (Richard Hoffman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:53 2003 Subject: Tail light removal question Message-ID: I had a similar dilemma when I installed treser smoked tails on my Coupe Quattro. I found that careful use of a screwdriver loosened the gasket enough to slowly peel the taillights off. I used 3M "strip-calk" adhesive weatherstripping which is almost exactly the same as the factory stuff to install the new tails. Good luck! Richard 1990 CQ 213K 1970 100LS 2dr 46K >From: Mike Robinson >To: "'quattro@audifans.com'" >Subject: Tail light removal question >Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 19:09:30 -0800 > >Hi all, > >What is the best way to remove the tail lights? >On my 90q the gasket seems pretty solid and I can not pull off the tail >lights. I am installing a set of European Smoked tail lights and I suppose >I need smaller gaskets. I may try the old hair drier trick to melt down >the >gaskets. I need to keep the originals so I need to be careful not to break >or crack the plastic. > >TIA > >-Mike Robinson >88 90q _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From ti at amb.org Tue Jan 7 21:00:51 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Bulb Condoms? In-Reply-To: from "Keith Fahlgren" at Jan 07, 2003 09:31:51 PM Message-ID: <200301080500.FAA06907@amb.org> Keith Fahlgren writes: > After just relaying my lights (thanks Huw) I'd like to move on to putting i= > n my radio (a Blaupunkt) rather than the one that's in the car (which also = > is a Blaupunkt). The reason the existing one is still in is because the gre= > en display has been turned red (by my brother). The way to do this is with = > "bulb condoms." I have no idea where to find these things or what they're c= > alled. I think about a month ago somebody (Ti?) mentioned them and I made s= > ure to save the post. Of course, I can't find it anywhere now, including th= > e archives. Any suggestions? They should be available from parts stores that offer aftermarket VDO gauges. They come in different sizes for the different types of bulbs, so you will have to know what you want. Another trick that you can play to make the illumination red, is to open up the radio and find the translucent optical pieces that carry light to different areas to the front panel, and color them with red permanent ink marker. Depending on the radio, you might also try using transparent red plastic film (like some report covers that you find at stationary or drug stores). Note that this method of changing the illumination to red means filtering out other colors, and the display might appear much dimmer as a result. You might have to change to brighter bulbs to make up for it. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// From ensch1 at comcast.net Thu Jan 9 01:00:38 2003 From: ensch1 at comcast.net (Steve Ensch) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: vw question (NAC) Message-ID: I am trying to diagnose a 2000 VW Cabrio with a check engine light on. Does anyone know the procedure to check the fault codes on this type IV VW? Is this an oxygen sensor replacement notice. The car has 45000 miles and I just recently did an oil change and replaced the spark plugs. Then five miles later the check engine light came on. thanks in advance Steve From JShadzi at aol.com Wed Jan 8 01:22:28 2003 From: JShadzi at aol.com (JShadzi@aol.com) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: [s-cars] Speed World Challenge Champion Racing RS6 next season Message-ID: -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Yes, that was the original intent ;) Javad In a message dated 1/7/2003 5:56:56 PM Pacific Standard Time, fjamoroso@webtv.net writes: > Sadly, I believe the point was that the only RS6s with manual trannies > will be the Speedvision GT cars campaigned by Audi Sport NA / Champion. > > Same way that the S4 competitions showed up with RS4 bodywork, etc. > > Frank@s-cars.org > > From rick-l at rocketmail.com Tue Jan 7 22:37:50 2003 From: rick-l at rocketmail.com (Richard J Lebens) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: vw question (NAC) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030108063750.7064.qmail@web12505.mail.yahoo.com> Take it to AutoZone and they will hook it up to their OBDII diagnostic tester in the parking lot -- for FREE. This is a cheap scanner (Actron $140) that just reads diagnostic trouble codes. Write down the code(s), do a Google search using OBD DTC and look up the code to see what it thinks is wrong. --- Steve Ensch wrote: > I am trying to diagnose a 2000 VW Cabrio with a check engine light > on. Does > anyone know the procedure to check the fault codes on this type IV > VW? Is > this an oxygen sensor replacement notice. The car has 45000 miles > and I > just recently did an oil change and replaced the spark plugs. Then > five > miles later the check engine light came on. > > thanks in advance > Steve > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From john at craincorporated.com Wed Jan 8 02:28:25 2003 From: john at craincorporated.com (John Forbes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Shot from a cannon (Marginal Audi content) Message-ID: <007101c2b6e7$88360f20$6600a8c0@ctgicody> This is a multi-part message in MIME format. -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Well I'd have to say its not the fastest 914. At my shop in South Florida w= e specialise in 914s and have some pretty wild cars. How about a carbon fib= er bodied 914 with a 345hp '88 3.2l 911 Carrera motor, weighing in at 2265l= bs (with roll cage), or the other that wanted to go even farther - a 3.3l b= iturbo with a bit over 600hp, and again weighing in under 2400lbs. Both wit= h the works for suspension, mostly 911S bits, with 930 brakes. Those Chevy = conversions while being cheap just are way too heavy for the 914 chassis, a= nd they totally kill the handling, which is the one thing that those cars w= ere made to do. In my opinion its kinda ripping the heart out of the car wh= en you do that, but I do agree that are really fun to drive. -John Forbes '86 5ktq - soon to run on EFI, next stop headers and T3/T4! Message: 4 Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 10:59:37 To: quattro@audifans.com From: Mike Arman Subject: Shot from a cannon (Marginal Audi content) There's only marginal Audi content here, but this does involve the "extended family", so here goes. Made a deal last week, I'll wire your car, you give me the motorcycle you want to sell. Deal accepted. Car is a 1975 Porsche 914. Very probably the fastest one (in a straight line, at least) in the known universe. It has been gutted, five-bolt hubs from a 911 installed, and the 2.0 flat four is history - a great big Chevrolet V-8 of about 475 hp is sitting there . . . cam, headwork, fuel injection, Mallory ignition and fuel injection computer, headers, the *full* good-ole-boy hotrod treatment, with cost as no object (the guy can afford it - easily). It has been driven about 200 miles already, so it runs. Task at hand is to re-wire the car. I'm about half done. This is actually pretty easy when all the old wiring and interior are gone, and I'm starting with a clean slate and someone else's evidently bottomless wallet. The fee is one 1975 Hercules (sold as DKW - there's the other family connection) W2000 wankel powered motorcycle, 97% complete, in several large boxes. Brought it home in two trips in the type 44 - no problem. And I am NOT going for a test drive when his 914 is finished - that thing SCARES me! Best Regards, Mike Arman --__--__-- -- From ti at amb.org Tue Jan 7 23:28:59 2003 From: ti at amb.org (Ti Kan) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: vw question (NAC) In-Reply-To: <20030108063750.7064.qmail@web12505.mail.yahoo.com> from "Richard J Lebens" at Jan 07, 2003 10:37:50 PM Message-ID: <200301080728.HAA07167@amb.org> You really need to hook the car up to a VAG-COM setup ( http://www.ross-tech.com ) to see what's going on. There are tons of VAG-specific DTCs and a generic OBDII tool isn't going to be able to give meaningful outputs. -Ti 2003 A4 1.8T multitronic 2001 S4 biturbo 6-sp 1984 5000S turbo 1980 4000 2.0 5-sp -- /// Ti Kan Vorsprung durch Technik /// AMB Laboratories, Sunnyvale, CA. USA /// ti@amb.org ////// http://www.amb.org/ti/ /// Richard J Lebens writes: > Take it to AutoZone and they will hook it up to their OBDII diagnostic > tester in the parking lot -- for FREE. This is a cheap scanner > (Actron $140) that just reads diagnostic trouble codes. Write down > the code(s), do a Google search using OBD DTC and look up the code to > see what it thinks is wrong. > > --- Steve Ensch wrote: > > I am trying to diagnose a 2000 VW Cabrio with a check engine light > > on. Does > > anyone know the procedure to check the fault codes on this type IV > > VW? Is > > this an oxygen sensor replacement notice. The car has 45000 miles > > and I > > just recently did an oil change and replaced the spark plugs. Then > > five > > miles later the check engine light came on. From snufy58 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 7 23:37:52 2003 From: snufy58 at yahoo.com (Greg Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: VW QSW info Message-ID: <20030108073752.3510.qmail@web11401.mail.yahoo.com> -- [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] Message: 16 From: "The Loves" To: Subject: VW QSW info request Hi all, I am looking at a syncro wagon and have a few questions for those with the experience. To keep the band width in reason, contact me personally. My quattro content? I'm keeping the urq and the 4kq. Just need something to haul the stuff around and still feel like a quattro driver. Thanks all =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D Check out syncronized@yahoogroups.com. We're approx. 230 members and good f= olks. Kinda like the bunch here, just not near as many. There were only abo= ut 4300 of these things sold in the U.S. and apparently not many were sold = in the home market either. Good luck, Snuffy --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now From snufy58 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 8 01:49:12 2003 From: snufy58 at yahoo.com (Greg Smith) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Beck-Arnley brand parts Message-ID: <20030108094912.45423.qmail@web11402.mail.yahoo.com> So, how is the quality? Good, or more of the old "you get what you pay for" routine? Looking for a fuel pump for my Syncro. Should I bother with the B-A? Would the Pierburg(correct name?) be a better choice? Or should I just save up my pennies for the Bosch? What is the group's consensus? Thanks everyone, Greg 86 QSW-going for another 160K miles! __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From MAGUID at MAIN.DJJ.STATE.SC.US Wed Jan 8 08:23:59 2003 From: MAGUID at MAIN.DJJ.STATE.SC.US (Michael Guidotti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Beck-Arnley brand parts Message-ID: I would look at the "beck-arnley" pump, I had to replace the transfer fuel pump on my old GTI and went into a autozone cause I HAD to have it, I was very happy to see that the pump in the box was a pierburg pump! as far as quality goes they are supposed to be better than the bosh pump. Mike >>> Greg Smith 01/08/03 04:49AM >>> So, how is the quality? Good, or more of the old "you get what you pay for" routine? Looking for a fuel pump for my Syncro. Should I bother with the B-A? Would the Pierburg(correct name?) be a better choice? Or should I just save up my pennies for the Bosch? What is the group's consensus? Thanks everyone, Greg 86 QSW-going for another 160K miles! __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From wphelps at rizzo.com Wed Jan 8 08:43:15 2003 From: wphelps at rizzo.com (Bill Phelps) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: grumpy 4kq Message-ID: I guess I meant to say the the car runs fine after a minute, but as you indicated, it takes a while to make any heat. I've checked the NTC sensor (aka coolant temp sensor) and it's fine (according to the Bentley specs). I might change it out just in case. Thanks. -----Original Message----- From: Jpinkowish@aol.com [mailto:Jpinkowish@aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 11:26 PM To: wphelps@rizzo.com Subject: Re: grumpy 4kq In a message dated 1/6/03 11:05:25 PM EST, quattro-request@audifans.com writes: > The > car starts fine even when stone cold, so I'm guessing its not the > thermo-time switch. However, sometimes after starting the idle will > fluctuate slightly and the car will just about die when any > accelerator is applied. It does not stall, however. Seems to only > last for the first 30 seconds to 1 minute or so then the car runs > fine. If I wait for the car to fully warm up all is well... Good morning Mr. Phelps, I couldn't resist the Mission Impossible greeting. Sorry. Your 4kq must be the only one on the planet that warms up in 1 minute from stone cold. Mine takes 3-4 just to generate heat. I'll admit that my heater core needs replacing. Your car starts OK because the cold start valve works fine. Check the coolant temp sensor that feeds the ECU. It's the bottom one on the rad hose neck coming out of the cyl head. That thing should read about 2.5-2.8K ohms at 60degF; higher when colder. At operating temp, the resistance will drop to 300-500 ohms. Your sensor may have failed at a low resistance, or it starts out OK and th eresistance immediately drops too fast. This means the ECU thinks your engine is warm and leans out the fool mixcha. If you have a switchable resistor box, pull the connector from the sensor and feed 3-5k ohms into the connector. You should be able to fully rev the engine. This sensor is available at thepartsbin.com, etc. Even at your local store the Bosch replacement is under $30. Let the list know how you make out. As always, if this suggestion doesn't work, I will disavow any knowledge of sending it. Jan Pinkowish '85 4ksq Bristol, CT From konstantin.bogach at morganstanley.com Wed Jan 8 10:48:51 2003 From: konstantin.bogach at morganstanley.com (Konstantin Bogach) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Driveshaft support bearing - 4 ksq References: <20030107212041.21315.45577.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <3E1C4863.EB9243AD@morganstanley.com> It is very likely that on that old car the rubber will be not good as well. Mine was deformed, sagged and I tore it I saw how degraded it was. Audi part is about $150 - direct fit (whole thing with bearing). Konstantin. > > I've got a grinding(squealing) noise a 2 weeks ago and today it was identified as driveshaft support bearing and u-joint noise. > > What is the urgency to replace the bearing? > I was told that if bearing seizes it will damage the rubber holder(case). The rubber part could not be find!? > Should I speed up with repairs (costly) or to shop for options? > > What are my options for parts and actions here? > > (I look at H. Powell's page :http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/tricks.htm#shaft. > > The info is regarding replacement parts. What about Audi's parts? ) > > Thx, > > Dobby > From dans at audifans.com Wed Jan 8 10:49:24 2003 From: dans at audifans.com (Dan Simoes) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: vw question (NAC) References: Message-ID: <3E1C4884.408C306E@audifans.com> Probably a bad MAF (mass airflow sensor), part 06A-906-461A, about $65 at your local dealer. Could also be the oxygen sensor, they've had problems with both on the 2.0 engines (among others). Steve Ensch wrote: > > I am trying to diagnose a 2000 VW Cabrio with a check engine light on. Does > anyone know the procedure to check the fault codes on this type IV VW? Is > this an oxygen sensor replacement notice. The car has 45000 miles and I > just recently did an oil change and replaced the spark plugs. Then five > miles later the check engine light came on. From chrisdyer at hotmail.com Wed Jan 8 08:43:30 2003 From: chrisdyer at hotmail.com (Chris Dyer) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: FS: '87 5kcstq (LONG!) Message-ID: Getting a "new" '72 MB 280se, so my beloved quat's got to go. (In L.A. area.) Silver w/black leather, sunroof, non-heated seats. Overview: car runs fantastic, straight and true--very calm and comfy at 85. Fast (1.3-4 bar) and stops too! 187k mi. when odo quit 2 mos. ago--approx 2k mi./mo. w/my new commute. Nutshell: great daily driver (as it is, duh!) or winter car. I think it's worth 2250...the Good, Bad and Ugly reads like the entire archives of this list (It works/is perfect/etc. unless listed under BAD/UGLY below): GOOD: *I bought in '98 w/118k mi. All service done by list recommended Bob Hoffman of Precicion Motorsports in Hermosa Beach. *new battery *new alternator (rebuilt Bosch) *new steering rack (rebuilt) *new pwr steering pump & all new hoses *new bomb, master and slave *clutch kit, TO bearing *cv's & boots *new radiator (2 wks.!), afterrun switch, hoses, resevoir, cap, thermostat...timing belt/h2o pump service at 171k mi. (& at 118k when I bought it. *Michelin man hose, various other hoses, oil lines, etc. *WOT switch, ISV, temp sensors, injectors (1 mo.!) & seals, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel pump & relay *accel. cable & pulley *Brakes (fr.are Ate Powerdisks) *1 mo. old/1k mi. Dunlop A2's. (awesome tire, BTW) Spare donut & hardware all perfect and working. *regular Mobil 1 & synth. fluid changes by Bob. Diffs gladly lock as they should. Has been a faithful snowboard transporter. *4 new Boge turbo gas, full fr. end rebuilt (mounts, etc.) This chassis/steering feels brand flipping new. (done 2 years ago) *new Sony cd/radio head unit; very reliable and sounds good. *complete CC system recharged, blows freezing; all parts replaced w/rebuilt stuff, new blower motor and heater coil *wiper blades and washer pump (1 mo.) BAD (it all works A+ unless listed): *antennae mast needed, motor runs, in permanent 'up' *either seat memory is broken, or I'm clueless in figuring it out *Odo quit 2 mos. ago. Tach is flaky--once in a while the needle goes dead. 'computer' works, other gauges work fine. *Rear window switches, or driver's window lock, prevent rear passengers from using windows. Driver must raise/lower them. *dr. side rear speakers on shelf & rr. door don't work. Broken door wire maybe? Other 10,316 speakers in car fine. UGLY: *from 10 ft. away, looks great! Orig. paint, usual hood pockmarks, scratches (not deep at all) here n' there. A few dings on pass. side; S.O. 'kissed' a white pillar, as white paint is permently implanted on pass side rr door moulding (but no body damage). All trim, moulding and rubber is there. Still shines & water beads thanks to yours truly. Rubber/seals ok, no leaks or rips. NO rust! *New windshield (1 yr.); side/rear glass perfect. Defroster perfect. *Trunklid 'hump'; my guess is PO tried to slam over large object. (gee, ya think?!) *Seat leather is brittle, not good. Fr. seats are covered w/FLAPS cotton seat covers. Door panels are a 'B', dash and carpet are perfect. Dr. side door panel map pocket (near left foot) is gone. *Shift boot is forcocked--unattached at bottom resulting in 'automatic' ashtray opening sequence. (I'm a non-smoker BTW.) Needs replacement or copious epoxy. Wood knob is 'A-' however. *headliner is okay up front, but 'fancy' staple gun procedure keeps it from drooping in back. Sunroof works perfectly, but its headliner is all bunched up. Nutshell: headliner forcocked, but stabilized. Questions? wk: 310-247-7785 or cell: 310-567-9863 or email. I can get some digital photos for email if you want. Thanks for listening! THANKS TO EVERYONE ON THIS LIST, esp. Swann, Lum, SJM, Lawrence Leung and the rest for your help over the last 4+ years. I hope that the vintage MB list as good...but I doubt it. from chrisdyer@hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail From pizzoman at yahoo.com Wed Jan 8 08:44:23 2003 From: pizzoman at yahoo.com (Joseph Pizzimenti) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: speedo....no go. In-Reply-To: <001e01c2b6c0$62d641e0$eae0020a@ours> Message-ID: <20030108164423.17524.qmail@web20807.mail.yahoo.com> I do not know if they have them for the 90's, but I got my dual gauge pod for the UrS4 from Neuspeed after asking Summit Racing (out of stock), Blau (out of stock) and Supreme Power Parts (told me to call neuspeed). Neuspeed has them for cheap and they are autometer units. --- jesse wrote: > This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > I know there were some issues with the 90's > having trouble with the circuit film behind the > cluster. Is there a similar problem with the 4K's? > The speedo was intermitent for a while, now > completely kaput. There also appears to be a "check > engine" icon there too, which has NEVER lit since i > have had the car. > > I am also still trying to track down the lopeing > idle. I sprayed all over the place with engine > starting fluid, no air leaks. But i have noticed > that the problem only occurs once the car has warmed > up a little. Someone told me to check the ignition > timing? Any other places to check? > > Lastly, is there a source for A-pillar gage pods > that anyone knows of? > > Thank you yet again, > Jesse Erickson "Pizza God" > -- > __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca Wed Jan 8 08:45:49 2003 From: tihol_tiholov at sd27.bc.ca (tihol_tiholov@sd27.bc.ca) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Snow tire "hardening" Message-ID: >... You want narrower in winter. "Pizza cutters" my friend from Boulder >used to call them. I just watched the WRC of Finland? Anyway it >was in snow and I was amazed how tall and thin the >tires were. Make that Sweden - February. Finnland is in the summer. Greetings, Tihol From zsolt1 at telusplanet.net Wed Jan 8 10:04:48 2003 From: zsolt1 at telusplanet.net (Zsolt) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Great videos on Kazaa Message-ID: <3E1C5A30.3090100@telusplanet.net> I just searched for Audi on Kazaa, and it came up with some really cool videos. Lots of RS4 stuff, some Ur quattro flicks, street and drag racing, rally, and reviews. Check it out if you have a chance. Cheers, Zsolt From brett at cloud9.net Wed Jan 8 12:57:15 2003 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Great videos on Kazaa In-Reply-To: <3E1C5A30.3090100@telusplanet.net> References: <3E1C5A30.3090100@telusplanet.net> Message-ID: At 10:04 AM -0700 1/8/03, Zsolt wrote: >I just searched for Audi on Kazaa, and it came up with some really cool >videos. Lots of RS4 stuff, some Ur quattro flicks, street and drag >racing, rally, and reviews. Check it out if you have a chance. Might want to download AdAware while you're at it(http://www.lavasoftusa.com/aaw.html). Kazaa(along with most other semi-commercial P2P programs) installs a slew of other programs- spyware, adware, ad-serving-ware, you name it. Adaware does an excellent job of finding and removing them, along with permanent cookies(used for tracking your activity) left behind by the various major banner ad companies. Just for kicks even if you've never installed any P2P clients, download Adaware and give it a run- you might be unpleasantly surprised by what it finds. A lot of the Audi content on the P2P networks is mostly 'borrowed' from RS4.org, NordicAudi, and other various places on the net. Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 8 10:07:28 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Great videos on Kazaa In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030108180728.84866.qmail@web20008.mail.yahoo.com> --- Brett Dikeman wrote: > At 10:04 AM -0700 1/8/03, Zsolt wrote: > >I just searched for Audi on Kazaa, and it came up > with some really cool > >videos. Lots of RS4 stuff, some Ur quattro flicks, > street and drag > >racing, rally, and reviews. Check it out if you > have a chance. > > Might want to download AdAware while you're at > it(http://www.lavasoftusa.com/aaw.html). > Kazaa(along with most other > semi-commercial P2P programs) installs a slew of > other programs- > spyware, adware, ad-serving-ware, you name it. > Adaware does an > excellent job of finding and removing them, along > with permanent > cookies(used for tracking your activity) left behind > by the various > major banner ad companies. Just for kicks even if > you've never > installed any P2P clients, download Adaware and give > it a run- you > might be unpleasantly surprised by what it finds. > > A lot of the Audi content on the P2P networks is > mostly 'borrowed' > from RS4.org, NordicAudi, and other various places > on the net. Yep, adaware kicks ass, if anyone has Hotbar, it will do a great job of removing that. You can also get the hacked up version of Kazaa that has all the spyware removed at http://www.kazaalite.com/ ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From tnas at euronet.nl Wed Jan 8 19:49:05 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Audi Rosemeyer Streamliner Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194744.052b7e90@mail.euronet.nl> "Tom Vandervoort" wrote: >The Streamliner's 1:18 scale and 9.75" long. It's back ordered 3 weeks. 45 >bucks. Hmm, paid $23 for mine. Tom From tnas at euronet.nl Wed Jan 8 19:50:15 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> http://www.carclassic.com/ From joukoh at sympatico.ca Wed Jan 8 14:44:58 2003 From: joukoh at sympatico.ca (Jouko Haapanen) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: [urq] Check this out! In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: I was looking at buying that red A2 a few years ago, except the price was significantly cheaper then. IIRC, the car was originally built for Petteri Lindstrom for the Finnish Group B championship series in 1987 and 1988. The car was built either in Sweden or Finland (can't remember now), not by Audi Sport. Petteri won the championship both years with this car. Petteri, who is the VW national sales manger in Finland and I know very well, indicated that the car was very tired after two seasons back in the 80's. It has since seen the odd rallysprint outing, and some parts have been replaced. The price at the time I was looking at it about 4 years ago was the equivalent of 17-19 thousand Euros. I passed on it.... Jouko Jouko Haapanen President Georgetown Volkswagen www.georgetownvw.com tel 905-877-5285 fax 905-873-1914 -----Original Message----- From: urq-admin@audifans.com [mailto:urq-admin@audifans.com]On Behalf Of Tom Nas Sent: January 8, 2003 13:50 To: quattro@audifans.com; urq@audifans.com Subject: [urq] Check this out! http://www.carclassic.com/ _______________________________________________ Audifans urq mailing list Send posts to: mailto:urq@audifans.com Manage your list connection: http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/urq From gerard at poboxes.com Wed Jan 8 21:51:02 2003 From: gerard at poboxes.com (Gerard) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: when is a motorbike not a motorbike?? NAC References: Message-ID: <3E1C8126.264B4E7A@poboxes.com> How about this cute little thing? http://www.2226.co.za/images/PIC00006.JPG http://www.2226.co.za/images/PIC00008.JPG Saw it at a recent track event. Interested rear "plate", would you say? :) Alan Pritchard wrote: > > This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand > this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. > -- > [ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ] > > When dodge makes it........ > http://story.news.yahoo.com/news?tmpl=story2&cid=569&ncid=738&e=3&u=/nm/2003 > 0106/tc_nm/autos_show_dodge_dc From brett at cloud9.net Wed Jan 8 14:48:46 2003 From: brett at cloud9.net (Brett Dikeman) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: At 7:50 PM +0100 1/8/03, Tom Nas wrote: >http://www.carclassic.com/ Did you see the red Sport Q? "This car needs little done to it to make it look like new" indeed. Downright depressing- everywhere I looked I saw modifications, kludges, and bastardizations. Looked like a paint can, for chrissake, was being used as a reservoir. Don't get me started about how they scraped away paint to show the chassis #'s. Looks like a car that would take years(and a fortune) to restore. Brett -- ---- "They that give up essential liberty to obtain temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." - Ben Franklin http://www.users.cloud9.net/~brett/ http://www.apple.com/switch/ From tnas at euronet.nl Wed Jan 8 20:55:16 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! In-Reply-To: References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108205244.00a88ec0@mail.euronet.nl> At 14:48 8-1-03 -0500, Brett Dikeman wrote: >>http://www.carclassic.com/ > >Did you see the red Sport Q? "This car needs little done to it to make it >look like new" indeed. It's an old rally car. They weren't done all that nicely and I think this one's had some 'experience'. >Downright depressing- everywhere I looked I saw modifications, kludges, >and bastardizations. Looked like a paint can, for chrissake, was being >used as a reservoir. Don't get me started about how they scraped away >paint to show the chassis #'s. > >Looks like a car that would take years(and a fortune) to restore. Still, it's a pretty interesting shell with lots of interesting bits. Prices are way OTT, I agree. How about that Aztec? Tom From raudi1 at value.net Wed Jan 8 11:58:44 2003 From: raudi1 at value.net (J. Lyons) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: CGT shifter problems References: <20030108170024.11523.66336.Mailman@www.audifans.com> Message-ID: <000e01c2b750$5a33b500$ee82b6d1@tiff> Hello all, Last night while driving home, the shifter in my CGT turbo became loose in my hand, leaving me unable to shift gears. Upon getting under the car, I discovered that the support rod (which connects the shifter side plate to the tranny via a rubber bushing over a ball socket) had popped off the ball leaving no pivot point for the shifter. A friend of mine was kind enough to drive his jack out to me so that I could reconnect this bushing and continue home. I have ordered a new bushing this morning (even though mine appears fine, for $2 it seemed like cheap insurance) but my question is - has anyone had this problem before? A new bushing will probably help, but doesn't strike me as a bulletproof solution. Looking at the current setup, it occurs to me that a cotter pin or something should have been put at this connection from the factory. Any BTDT with this? Can't seem to find anything specific in the archives, and definitely don't want to deal with this again - especially on a long trip! Thanks in advance, J. Lyons 84 CGT turbo 86 4KCSQ 79 5KS From tnas at euronet.nl Wed Jan 8 20:58:03 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: [urq] Check this out! In-Reply-To: References: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108194953.00a95a00@mail.euronet.nl> Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108205603.00a89470@mail.euronet.nl> At 14:44 8-1-03 -0500, Jouko Haapanen wrote: >I was looking at buying that red A2 a few years ago, except the price was >significantly cheaper then. (snip) > The price at the >time I was looking at it about 4 years ago was the equivalent of 17-19 >thousand Euros. I passed on it.... Tired is what it looks like in those pics, indeed. And I don't know anything about classic car valuations, but I've seen a few non-Audis on this site with (IMO) too high prices. Tom From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 8 12:02:21 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20030108200221.772.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> --- Brett Dikeman wrote: > At 7:50 PM +0100 1/8/03, Tom Nas wrote: > >http://www.carclassic.com/ > > Did you see the red Sport Q? "This car needs little > done to it to > make it look like new" indeed. > > Downright depressing- everywhere I looked I saw > modifications, > kludges, and bastardizations. Looked like a paint > can, for > chrissake, was being used as a reservoir. Don't get > me started about > how they scraped away paint to show the chassis #'s. > > Looks like a car that would take years(and a > fortune) to restore. Something looks off about that car, it looks more like a ur-q than a sport q. Intersting 10v motor though, nice IM I must say, it looks kind of like my latest creation! ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From jeg1976 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 8 12:06:22 2003 From: jeg1976 at yahoo.com (Jim Green) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: when is a motorbike not a motorbike?? NAC In-Reply-To: <3E1C8126.264B4E7A@poboxes.com> Message-ID: <20030108200622.44474.qmail@web20004.mail.yahoo.com> --- Gerard wrote: > How about this cute little thing? > > http://www.2226.co.za/images/PIC00006.JPG > http://www.2226.co.za/images/PIC00008.JPG > > Saw it at a recent track event. Interested rear > "plate", would you say? > :) That reminds me of what I saw on TV last night, they had Jay Leno on with one of his motorcyles. When he fired it up I just about fell off the couch when the whine af a jet engine came blaring out of the TV! By far one of the coolest things I've seen. He said it had about a 2 second lag time, but after that you are holding on for dear life. Late, ===== Jim Green '89 90tq 034EFI, Haltech IG5 http://www.geocities.com/jeg1976/car_home.html __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now. http://mailplus.yahoo.com From tnas at euronet.nl Wed Jan 8 21:29:56 2003 From: tnas at euronet.nl (Tom Nas) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! In-Reply-To: <20030108200221.772.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> References: Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20030108212859.051cd580@mail.euronet.nl> At 12:02 8-1-03 -0800, Jim Green wrote: >Something looks off about that car, it looks more like >a ur-q than a sport q. Intersting 10v motor though, >nice IM I must say, it looks kind of like my latest >creation! Yup, it's a long-bodied A2, these guys don't know their SWBs from their LWBs. Tom From lindgre at online.no Wed Jan 8 21:32:25 2003 From: lindgre at online.no (Per Lindgren) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Check this out! References: <20030108200221.772.qmail@web20003.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3E1C8AD9.9030704@online.no> Jim Green wrote: > >Something looks off about that car, it looks more like >a ur-q than a sport q. Intersting 10v motor though, >nice IM I must say, it looks kind of like my latest >creation! > It looks urq because it is an urq, not a Sq! The urq A2 was the final LWB Gr.B evolution of the Urq, before the Sq was introduced in 1984. PerL 87 Cq From benwalker at direcway.com Wed Jan 8 14:33:26 2003 From: benwalker at direcway.com (Ben Walker) Date: Thu Nov 20 12:22:54 2003 Subject: Great videos on Kazaa References: <20030108180728.84866.qmail@web20008.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501c2b755$35802950$8b71140a@bennie8d42ncic> Has anyone tried kazaalite? same as kazaa without the ads and bugs. www.kazaalite.com Ben ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Green" To: "Brett Dikeman" ; "Zsolt" ; "Quattro" Sent: Wednesday, January 08, 2003 12:07 PM Subject: Re: Great videos on Kazaa > > --- Brett Dikeman wrote: > > At 10:04 AM -0700 1/8/03, Zsolt wrote: > > >I just searched for Audi on Kazaa, and it came up > > with some really cool > > >videos. Lots of RS4 stuff, some Ur quattro flicks, > > street and drag > > >racing, rally, and reviews. Check it out if you > > have a chance. > > > > Might want to download AdAware while you're at > > it(http://www.lavasoftusa.com/aaw.html). > > Kazaa(along with most other > > semi-commercial P2P programs) installs a slew of > > other programs- > > spyware, adware, ad-serving-ware, you name it. > > Adaware does an > > excellent job of finding and removing them, along > > with permanent > > cookies(used for tracking your activity)