Help - Timing Belt off by tooth - or Vac leak???

siambisg at siambisg at
Tue Jan 28 12:41:41 EST 2003

>Go for the most obvious FIRST.  Check for vacuum leaks, especially at the
>intake boot.
Can it be too early to do a vac leak check?  Engine did sit for two months. I am inclined to get it warmed up and see if things improve.  Any reason not to do this??? Such as no coolant only water b/c i'm planning a cooling sys flush.  I've turned the crank over by hand again and the timing marks _seem_ close.

What i've done:
tightened down the intake boot clamps (were loosened during failed air filter attempt) checked/tightened connections at charc canister shutoff and fired up the engine two more times.

1st time- again long crank time, idled really rough, grey/white smoke out the exhaust, smell of fuel in the air, much like before

2nd time- after few minutes tried again.  this time it started almost like normal, i.e., practically right away, idle was steady at about 1000 rpms.  the idle was still rough but much smoother, much less smoke out the back, but it still isn't right

i pulled oil dipstick, then oil cap, then both.  with dipstick out no change in idle, after oil cap idle dipped but still ran same with both out.  car had _no_ vac leaks before and would stumble/stall with just the dipstick out

Is this a rich or lean condition??  *possible caveat is the cold start valve may still be doing it's thing, no?*

i shut it off before 30-40 seconds b/c the aux rad is not connected, cooling system is still open, and the engine is filled with only water no coolant!  i'm inclined to do the simple thing, warm it up and see if things get better :-)  if not, no harm, right??

Again, thanks for all the help so far!!  The hardest part of all this is never having done it before...
George Siambis
'88 90q

>siambisg at writes:
>> . . it idles terribly . . . and  i couldn't be happier :)
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