What relays to use for Head light relays
antar at comcast.net
Sat Nov 29 01:16:06 EST 2003
I know ratcheting crimpers are the best, but they're not cheap. I prefer to spend the extra money on ones for CAT5 which is more sensitive to an exact crimp pressure. Once you get the hang of the regular crimpers, it's not so bad, and if you make a mistake it's a hell a lot easier to just start over on a Faston terminal than RJ-45 one w/ all those tiny wires that have to be in order...
That's the page where it has some info on the bulb connectors. If you click on "Ueful Info", there's even more stuff about wiring and lamps. You might want to give a call for more info on the adapter.
From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
Date: 11/28/03 7:17:26 PM
Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2003 16:18:05 -0500
> From: Ameer Antar <antar at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: What relays to use for Head light relays
> To: quattro at audifans.com
> About the crimpers, I know what you guys are talking about. The first ones
I had came in a crimp kit and the sucked balls. They were too thin and
floppy. I bought another one from Radio Shack actually and it works great.
The main difference is that it has a much thicker head, so it doesn't bend,
and the crimp "die" (tool is only 1-piece) has a better defined pattern on
it unlike the el cheapo brand. I think it cost about $15, and I have found a
lot uses for it, like repairing the OE harness and wiring speakers and all
sorts of stuff. But that's if you're into working w/ electricals.
***** The $15 crimper still is not as good as a ratchetting type of crimper.
The quality of crimp depends on how much muscle power you have.
The ratchetting type crimper will not release until you have made a quality
crimp. It too relies on muscle power, but it tells you when enough is
Here are some links for ratchetting crimpers.
> W/ regard to Home Depot wire, that stuff sucks. It's really hard to bend
b/c of the low strand count and I've bad experiences w/ the wires oxidizing
inside the casing. You're better off w/ some automotive wire at the local
FLAPS / electrical store or get special wire online.
**** Amen to that. The regular stranded wire at Home Depot is oil and
gasoline resistant . .thats good. I dont know what the heat specs on it are.
The wire has too few strands in it for good crimping, and its stiff.
The "Primary wire" you find in auto stores has more strands in it, but no
indication of oil and gas tolerance, or heat rating . . .thats bad. And its
Here is some info on what is required
I still have to find a place that sells what I want.
> Last thing about the harness for the bulbs themselves, I believe there is
a small adapter harness that is sold to convert from the standard OE bulb
configuration to H4 config. (I think the ground and low/hi beam connections
are mismatched). The adapter has a male and female which could be cut and
spliced at the ends of the setup. You should be able to get it from most
auto light places, but I remember that these guys (
http://catalog.com/susq/ ) had a nice page describing them and the reason
you need to adapt the OE to H4 setup. They also sell these things for like
$2 or something and free if you buy some lamps I believe. Hope this helps a
bit. Take care all, and have a nice Thanksgiving.
**** I couldnt find the adapter harness on that site. It must be well
85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
88 Audi 5kq
90 Audi 100q
More information about the quattro