Timing belt align to rotor problem

SJ syljay at optonline.net
Fri Dec 31 15:10:10 EST 2004

Since Denis does have this wacky problem. I would go one step further. And
that is to make absolutely sure that the valve timing is correct by using
the  Mark I Eyeball.

Remove the valve cover.
Line up the flywheel TDC center
Check to make sure the piston is at TDC
Check to make sure the camshaft sprocket is lined up.
Now look at the camshaft itself - Check to make sure the valves are
up(closed) by looking at the valve cam follower.

Just for the hell of it, I would remover the camshaft sprocket and check it.
I dont know how its mounted . . is it keyed?
Maybe the key is gone and the camshaft has moved.
Maybe the camshaft sprocket has the dimple in the wrong place?

There is something fundamentally wrong with the basic mechanicals. The basic
engine stuff is not Voodoo!

The only obvious problem indicator that we can see is the distributor being
about 180 degrees off. And the clamp lock rivet is in place!
The only way for the distributor to be off is for the camshaft to be off.
Everything keeps pointing to the camshaft . . the dist being off . .and
having to move the camshaft a couple teeth to just get the engine to run.

So far, everything has been checked EXCEPT the valve timing. Looking at the
cam sprocket is not checking the valve timing directly. You need to actually
see the cam and the cam followers in action.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ben Swann" <benswann at comcast.net>
To: "Denis" <sparkplugvw at hotmail.com>
Cc: "SJ" <syljay at optonline.net>; <quattro at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2004 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: Timing belt align to rotor problem

> The distributor has no slot in the bottom, so could theoretically be mated
to the cam gear in any tooth to tooth position.  That said, unless the
distributor or camshaft had been removed, the position should be as it was
from the factory.  If your cam to crank position is off, then you will need
to rotate the distribuotr to compensate, and in this case it means cutting,
dremeling, drilling, or chiseling out the threaded rivit and relace with a
normal bolt - not a bad idea anyway.
> Get your timing belt set per factory.  I won't matter much if the sprocket
is off by a half tooth, but you'll need to figure if you want the cam timing
advanced (better low end) or retarded(better top end).
> Ben
> [From: SJ <syljay at optonline.net>
> Subject: Re: Timing belt align to rotor problem.
> To: Denis <sparkplugvw at hotmail.com>
> Cc: quattro at audifans.com
> Message-ID: <000701c4eea0$4e3523e0$096efea9 at dell450>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> Maybe, the distributor shaft jumped gears or something. Who the hell
> You got one weird puppy there.
> If it was me, I would remove the distributor and check it out thoroughly.
> I dont know how to check the gearing inside the head or the block.
> else has to chime in on this.
> I think the distrubutor end has a slot or groove that mates with the slot
> groove inside the engine. Maybe these are rounded off? The distributor end
> is not fully engaging into the gear? Take some measurements and see what
> have.
> If I recall correctly, to remove the distributor, I ground off the rivet
> the dist clamp with a dremel grinding disc. It wasnt hard to do.
> What is the story with the fuel system?
> Fuel pump pressure?
> Fuel pump delivery?
> Fuel pressure regulator?
> I still cannot figure out the relationship between your fuel problem and
> this timing problem.
> Maybe you were having a slowly worsening fuel problem for a long time. And
> this timing problem occured very quickly and very recently. Maybe all that
> cranking caused by your fuel problem had something to do with the
> distributor being 180 degrees out?
> SJ]

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