newby, clutch question

Tony Hoffman tfh400036 at
Wed Aug 17 14:57:09 EDT 2005

Welcome to the list, Eric!!
You are right on track with the master and slave. The slave is a pain to replace. After which, it works best to "reverse bleed" it. I did drive a 4kq with the same symptom for about five years, no ill effects. Just make sure it doesn't grind or shift hard, or you will have big problems later. 
On the grinding third, probably synchro's. Is it worse when the trans is warm? Either way it can't hurt to change the fluid.
There is no way to check the clutch that I'm aware of, without removing it. If it doesn't slip, I'd say you are good to go.
Tony Hoffman
Oh, and I've had several Audi Foxes. Wish I could get my hands on one now. Fun little car. I even put a VR6 into one of them.

Eric Henning <spiders_2000 at> wrote:
greetings all,

Just subscribed as I most likely will be picking up an
86 4000 Quattro tomorrow. 

Quick background on me - longtime shade tree mechanic,
worked in a garage for a couple years during college. 
List of past interesting cars include, 60's mustangs,
Ford Capri (opel), Jaguar XJ6, air cooled VW's, Fiat
Spider, Audi Fox (remember that one?), 67 Impala, 69
Cougar, motorcycles, etc... Presently have Range
rover, Porsche 928, 76 VW Bug conv, 73 GMC classic
motorhome, not to mention some boring newer Toyota's.

Buddy of mine will sell me his 86 4000 Q cheap. I've
searched the archives for the low clutch issue. 
Problem is the clutch appears to work fine however
clutch pedal is down by the floor and only uses about
two inches. Shifts fine (except 3rd crunches if
you're not careful in the clutch footwork). Would
just like some confirmation that most likely the
master or slave cylinder need replacement. Don't know
if there is any leakage, sorry. Master r&r seems like
a major PITA. Also is there a way to visual inspect
how much disc material is left?

Doylestown PA

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