4kq, slipping clutch :(
audi at humanspeakers.com
Wed Dec 7 23:17:25 EST 2005
>> Thanks for the detailed reply, Roy. Pretty obvious that I'll be
>> doing a clutch job, so I have some part related questions as well.
>> My current parts list is as follows:
>> 1. Slave and master
>> 2. Connecting hose
>> 3. Clutch kit (disc, pp, TO bearing)
>> 4. Tranny mounts x2
>> 5. Pilot bearing
>> 6. Throwout bearing guide sleeve
>> 7. Rear main seal
>> 8. Driveshaft seals x2
>> A) Have I forgotten anything?! (either for the clutch job or because
>> it's easier to do with the transmission out)
Seems pretty complete to me.
>> B1) Do I really need to replace the throwout bearing guide sleeve?
>> B2) There seems to be two different ones available, call them Cheap
>> ($3) and NotSoCheap ($15). What gives?
For $12 on this amount of work, why not go for "better" - if it is
indeed better and not just higher priced?
>> C) There seems to be two different pilot bearings available, again
>> cheap and not so cheap. Any help? In this case they appear to be
Maybe they are not even the same part.
>> D) Is there a transmission input shaft seal I should swap? Couldn't
>> find one in the FA but the FA and I don't always get along...
Yes... add that in. I didn't do mine years ago and smelled transmission
goo to regret it.
>> E) Any intel on the least painful place to get part #2?
>> F) I assume the downpipe has to come off (sweet). Is that gasket
Maybe, but again, new is $cheap. The manifold to downpipe gasket (three
"holes", five bolts) should be replaced, as should the locknuts. The
downpipe to cat "donut" can probably be re-used, and is also easy to
deal with if not, later.
>> '87 4kq
> Because I'm a poor college student I'd personally take the tranny mounts
> and clutch hose off the list.
A good point, but if he is not "poor", the mounts are cheap, and the
hose is best replaced now.
> The bearing guide sleeve
> is plastic as I recall but its not subject to UV degradation so I guess
> it would be a matter of how worn it is so it's a maybe.
A plastic, cheap part, that requires many hard hours of labor to get to
is best replaced "while you're in there".
> Rear main seal
> only if leaking badly. They all leak a little bit and with all things
> automotive, maintenance takes a toll of it's own.
Sorry, but they don't all "leak a little bit". just as we replace the
front crank seal when doing a water pump/timing belt, the clutch job is
the time to throw in a new rear main (and tranny input) seal.
> Sometimes you can
> install a new seal and end up with a bigger leak.
Not if you do it right. If you can't do it right, you shouldn't be in
there on your own anyway.
> Really, this is personal preference. If you want to change
> everything than have at it.
Agreed, that preference, available cash, and long term plans for the car
all come into play here. Sorry if some of my preferences seem to
disagree with yours so strongly...
> I'm not sure what you mean by driveshaft seals? The cv joints on both
> the drive axles and the drive shaft bolt onto flanges. There is a gasket
> that goes on the interface between the cv joint and flange that you will
> most likely need to replace. Don't forget to have some bags handy to
> cover up the open end of the cv joints as soon as you unbolt them so
> that dirt can't get in. Try and clean up the area where the joints
> unbolt from the flanges before you start disassembly for the same
> reason. Have some cv joint grease handy to replace what will be left
> behind in the drive flanges.
Agreed. There are these silly little gasket like things, that seem to
be re-usable. Then again, a big parts order with planning might as well
include them. if one is aware they exist, in advance.
> I'm also not sure what you mean by downpipe as that's a term usually
> applied to turbo cars and you are NA as far as I know but then again I'm
> not familiar with the breakdown of the 4kq exhaust.
See above. N/A cars have downpipes, too. They usually lead from the
manifold to the next component under the car.
> As for where to get parts, well that's a real problem now. In general I
> like dealing with places that know and love Audis. They're making money
> off you, the least they can do is send you the right parts.
You would probably do well to at least inquire at Atlantic Imported
(down the road from me):
The web site is kinda psychedelic, to my eye and taste, anyway, but just
call and tell Klaus or Wolfgang what you need. They'll understand.
Klaus made Saturday AM deliveries of TB/WP "kits" long ago when we
embarked on this fiasco:
http://www.humanspeakers.com/audi/NH2.htm (see 1/3 down the "fabulous
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