Check Engine Light

SJ syljay at
Thu Jan 27 13:24:28 EST 2005

I think you need to test the splice under a load, otherwise you wont see any
difference between one side or the other.

1. Connect Plus side of voltmeter to the battery +
2. Connect neg side of voltmeter to engine jump post. Make sure you have a
good connection here. This post is normally corroded.
3. Crank engine and see what voltage drop you get across the splice. You
might want to ground the center wire going to distributor so engine wont

You will get a voltage drop across the wiring and splice, but I dont know
what would be considered normal. Somebody else can chime in here.

You can always hook up two jumper cables in parallel between the battery +
and the jump post. If the engine now spins over real fast, you have found
your problem.

Typical cranking currents:
4-cylinder engines: 150 to 185 amperes
6-cylinder engines: 160 to 200 amperes
8-cylinder engines: 185 to 250 amperes

85 Dodge PU, D-250, 318, auto
85 Audi 4k - - sold but still on the road
88 Audi 5kq
90 Audi 100q

> From: Kent McLean <kentmclean at>
> Subject: Re: Check Engine Light
> To: Denis <sparkplugvw at>
> Check the voltage at the battery, and also from the
> engine compartment remote start post to ground. If
> they are not close (0.2V?), that might be part of
> your problem.

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