SPEC/3B Flywheel, and now break in recomendations...
cody at 5000tq.com
Sun Apr 16 00:14:02 EDT 2006
Won the auction today for $50.50. Got a 3B flywheel, plus a good/used 3B disc and a good/used 3B PP that I'll hang on to as emergency spares. I'd say it was a decent deal! Now shipping on all that stuff is probably be costly, but oh well. With any luck I'm looking at putting the engine in this coming weekend!! Really getting antsy about it now! Looking at dyno times availible during the first week of May.
Ok now that it's getting close I'd like to discuss everybody's break in procedures. On our Porsche race cars we tended to get maybe 5 hours (*maybe* 100 miles) of run time at a reduced rev limit, say 6000rpm rather then 9000rpm. After 5 hours the oil came out (all 15-18 quarts!), new oil in and it was turned loose. This was of course only because of limited time before we needed all of the performance. Most of out engines would then get oil changed every 7-10 hours, and run for up to 60 hours (roughly 1 whole season) before comming apart for a check over. Some of the more extreme race engines we will only let run for 35 hours, and the really out there ones go for no more then 20 before tear down. It's cheaper to tear it down and slap all new bearings in then it is to replace broken parts, especially Por$che parts.
Our street engines usually get a much nicer treatment, 500 miles of light use, no more then 4000rpm or so, and never ever is WOT condoned. After 500 miles they get an oil change, and we recomend to the customer to take it easy for another 250, but don't demand it.
All of our cars, both race and street run exclusively Castrol GTX 20-50 weight oil, so this is where most of my questioning is. I'd like to run Mobil 1, but I am told never to break in an engine on synthetic, to start with dyno, then go synthetic at the first oil change. I was thinking of running the Castrol 20-50 for 500 miles of very light use, then going Mobil 1 and call the breaking done. What do you guys think about the procedure (and don't try to convince me on the "run it WOT at 30psi first thing is best for it" theory)? When I do go Mobil 1, what grade should I be running in 75-100 degree weather? The P-cars always run thick oil, but they are oil cooled of course and also have 100 thousand potential leak points, so I have a feeling I should be a bit thinner with my Q-car.
'87 5ktq - Fast.
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