B4 90q Clutch vs Rear Main Bearing Seal
ldc007usa at yahoo.com
Mon Aug 14 13:33:59 EDT 2006
I'm in the process of a clutch job on an '85 VW QSW
(same drive train as in the Audi 4KQ) with 5 cylinder,
10v, 2.2 engine.
If your car is a 5 can, it probably has the same set
up on the engine block.
Anyway, if that seal leaks, oil will hit the flywheel
first and on the other side of it, obviously, is the
clutch, followed by the pressure plate.
If the leak is really bad, it is possible for oil to
drip past the flyweel, most likely from top 12
O'Clock, and on to the clutch.
Obviously, if you decide to change the seal, replace
the clutch and pressure plate, if needed, along with
tranny seals while it's out. Don't forget to replace
also the pilot bearing and thow out bearing. Ah, slave
master cylinder wouldn't be a bad idea either since
tranny is out, you'll be glad you did, or had it done
that is. The clutch master cylinder you could handle
And yes, it's a lot of work if you do it yourself, the
--- Bob Gregory <rggpa1 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Now that the 90q is running again, the rear main
> bearing seal is very obviously leaking. Not
> unexpected after 18 years and car having been
> used/sitting idle for so long. With continued use,
> will oil get on the clutch or is the configuration
> the motor/gearbox such that the clutch is somewhat
> protected? I have driven the car less than 20 miles
> (laps around the neighborhood only) since getting it
> running again. The plan was to get the car
> this week and have it as a daily driver again. If I
> get the seal replaced soon, is it possible the
> will be OK?
> Trying to evaluate if shop (I'm not doing this fix)
> should replace clutch (134K miles) while the gearbox
> is out for the RMB seal. Original clutch still has
> life left, but may be ruined by this oil leak.
> Anyone familiar with differences/preferences for OEM
> RMB seal, vs silicone seal vs redesigned seal w/o
> spring (as listed on WorldPac sites)?
> Once again, TIA
> Bob Gregory
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