Cylinder head - donor needed ... maybe not
John Cody Forbes
cody at 5000tq.com
Thu Jun 29 21:03:49 EDT 2006
> 180k miles on the engine which ran great up til now, as near as I can
> I would need some justification for a "valve job" ...
> What would a typical valve job include. What would I gain? What
> would be a ballpark cost estimate for a "valve job"?
> Thanks for any advice re: valve job, etc.
> DAve C.
Honestly at very least replacing the old valve stem seals (they come in your
head gasket kit anyways!) is a pretty easy process. To do a decent valve job
yourself you'll only need 2 tools, a few hours, and some valve grinding
compound (availible at any FLAPS). I'd say theres a 90% change your valve
stem seals need to be replaced, and a 90% chance the valve guides DON'T need
replacement. Get a spring compressor (or make one, easy to make for a OHC
head - see http://jcforbes.com/jcfpics/codysaudi/spiro_brett_valve_springs_2
for an idea of what you need, which is something to lever against, and a
lever to push the spring cap downward while you hold the valve in place),
remove the springs and remove the seals. Then use a suction cup valve
grinding tool and the grinding compound to seat the valves, then install new
seals and assemble head. None of it is *hard* work, but it can be time
consuming. Seriously though I'd recomend it, since you should already have
all of the parts required (comes in head gaskget kit) and only need 3-4
hours to spend on the head. Do this and you'll be sure that you aren't going
to end up burning oil in the near future due to leaky valve stem seals, and
you'll improve performance and possibly fuel economy.
If you are interested I'd gladly go into a full step by step detailed
tutorial on what you need to do as described breifly above, just let me
'86 5k noT noQ
'86 5k noT noQ - Parting Out
'87 5ktq - Fast. Really Fast.
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