Idleing and start problems - 200 1B
adavidmichael at gmail.com
Mon Sep 22 18:55:35 PDT 2008
See below for comments:.
> From: Per Lindgren per.lindgren at c2i.net
> First of all, it has problems holding an idle, it will bog down and die. If
> I feather the throttle for a good minute or so, it will eventually hold an
> idle around 800 rpms. When I let off the throttle to change gears, or stop
> at a crossing, it will also bog right down and die. I've checked the ISV,
> and it appears to be ok.
1. Check for vacuum leaks. Then check again. Then one more time.
2. Do you have all the proper CIS fuel pressure gauges? You need to check
system and control pressures. This sounds like a probable candidate.
3. Check that fuel filter is not plugged
4. Check multi function temp sensor and both fuel injection temp sensors
5. Check fuel pump flow (easiest done by disconnecting at the tank and
attaching a hose). I doubt this is the problem
all of the above is outlined in Scott Mockreys web site
> Second problem, and it's probably related to the first problem. When the
> engine dies, and I try to start it with the key, it will not start, it gives
> a tiny stumble, but then I can crank and crank till no end. I have to let it
> sit for at least 2-3 minutes. After a few minutes, it will start like
> nothing ever happened. If I however let the clutch out when the car is still
> rolling, it also starts without a problem, but not when I crank it with the
1. Check temp sensors
> Third, I've noticed that it runs a bit rough at a steady 2000 rpms. I've
> yet to check the ignition system, but I'm going to replace plugs, rotor and
> cap, just to be on the safe side.
1. Fuel system -
2. If you can, can put an oscope on the hall sensor output. Mine was sending
false triggers at about 200,000 miles. It noticed because when cranking
during start , the car it would have a false "catch" I could here. Oscope
trace showed it clearly.
> One thing I can't figure out is how to pull any fault codes. I've read on
> Phil Payne's excellent Urquattro pages how to do it (insert fuse into fuel
> pump relay, watch CEL light), but this car does not have any CEL light that
> I know of. No 2x2 diagnostics ports either, for that matter...
1. You need to make up an LED readout - see Scott's site
> Finally, I feel that I should mention that this car also has a bad voltage
> regulator. When driving, the voltmeter shows just below 13 volts, with only
> low beams on. If I switch to high beams and also light up the fogs, it falls
> below 12 volts. I've not read the voltage at the battery posts yet, because
> the car has problems idling... Do you think that the voltage may be a part
> of the problem? Maybe it is all of the problem? Any kind of input is
1. Typical problem - some people find a bad connection in the main harness
between the battery and alternator. Check the voltage between that battery
2. Check the connection on the blue exciter wire - its gets corroded
3. You can buy adjustable voltage regulators and set the set point a little
higher. DON"T buy the standard VR - it will be the same. I have also found
that output varies from one rebuilt alternator to the next
> Arendal, Norway
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