type 44 (200QA) just won't stop :-( The braking is fine. The breaking is not.....

Kent McLean kentmclean at comcast.net
Sun Nov 27 06:07:28 PST 2011

David Michael wrote:
> Anyone have an old type 44 oil cooler and both hoses laying around
> gathering dust ;-)?

When my 1990 10V spewed oil for the 3rd time, I gave up on used parts 
and went with an after market oil cooler.  The Audifans Knowledgebase is 
down and Web Archives can't show my old oil cooler page, so here it is 
again (without images):

Replacing an Oil Cooler and Hoses

After two failures of the oil hoses on my '89 200 TQ, where the contents 
of the sump were pumped out onto the ground (and earning my car the name 
"Bad Puppy"), I decided to fix the problem once and for all. In my case, 
the problem was a separation of the braided hose from the ferrule that 
attaches it to the oil filter adapter. Age, road salt, and corrosion ad 
done taken their toll.

There are a few approaches to fixing the problem:

     New Audi OEM factory replacements -- very expensive. You may also 
find the old fittings are frozen in place, and removing them might 
destroy the oil cooler.
     Non-Audi replacement hoses. Your local truck stop probably has a 
hydraulics repair shop that can create new hoses for a lot less than 
Audi. The Do-It-Yourself types can use AN fittings and hoses to make 
their own. This approach still uses the old and questionable cooler.
     A replacement oil cooler, available at most an local auto parts 
store. The kit I bought included a new adapter (which I didn't use), 
barbed fittings that screwed into the adapter, hose clamps, and about 
10-feet (3 m) of hose. This is the solution I used.

The Kit

I used a new Hayden Automotive Engine Oil Cooler 
(http://www.haydenauto.com/engineoc.html), part number 459. I purchased 
the kit at the local Pep Boys for US$79. Add about $10 for metal 
strapping and some nuts and bolts, and the cost of my fix was under $100.

The new oil cooler is 12-3/4 x 7-1/2 x 3/4 inches (320mm x 190mm x 
19mm), with 1/2-inch (13mm) push-on fittings. It is bigger but thinner 
than the original Audi part. When offered up to the opening vacated by 
the old oil cooler, it fit perfectly when positioned horizontally. The 
air duct for the old cooler would direct air at and over the new cooler, 
so that's where I decided to put it.


ALERT! Disclaimer: Work on your car at your own risk. Although this 
solution worked for the author, he cannot guarantee that it will work 
for you.

1. Remove the Old Parts

Before starting, drain the engine oil. In my case, there was nothing 
left in the sump to worry about.

The old oil cooler came out without much trouble. First take the oil 
hoses come off using a 27mm wrench. Since I wasn't reusing the fittings, 
I used a pipe wrench. With the hoses off, you should see two adapters 
fitted to the oil filter housing. Remove them using a 23mm wrench. 
Again, a pipe wrench works in a pinch. The oil cooler should come out 
with the hoses. You should also remove the ducting that feeds cool air 
to the oil cooler.

You should be left with just the oil filter adapter that has two 
threaded openings for the oil cooler lines.

2. Install the Fittings

The adapter fittings that come with the new oil cooler are English 
measurement, 5/8-inch by 18 threads per inch. The oil filter housing is 
metric, 18mm by 1.5mm threads. My test fit showed the thread size to be 
OK, although the adapter diameter was a loose fit. I used some Permatex 
(R) Threadlocker Blue, the non-permanent kind, to hold the adapters in 
place and keep them from leaking. Following the directions on the 
bottle, I applied it, installed the adapters, and let them dry for 24 hours.


3. Position the Cooler

A trial fit of the new cooler showed a nice shelf on the inside of the 
right fender on which one end of the cooler could sit. The shelf had a 
few holes through which a bolt would fit to secure the outside edge of 
the cooler. Perfect.


That left the other end of the cooler dangling in air, but with the 
inlet and outlet tubes pointing at the adapters on the oil filter. That 
was good. I just needed a way to secure it -- a piece of metal strapping 
would work.


4. Secure the Cooler

I secured the end of the oil cooler opposite the inlet/outlet tubes to 
the fender perch first. I cut a couple pieces of the new oil hose 1 inch 
(25 mm) long to use as grommets. The hose/grommets would fit inside the 
loops of the oil cooler pipes, cushioning the cooler from vibration. For 
the smaller loop, I had to slit the hose to make it fit. I used two 
1/4-inch (6 mm) bolts 1-inch (25 mm) long to secure the oil cooler to 
the fender shelf. The bolts passed through the fender lip/bracket and 
through the hose/grommet inside the loop. Large fender washers, about 
1-inch (25 mm) wide, made sure the bolt didn't slip through the loop.

I secured the other end of the oil cooler with a 1 inch (25 mm) wide 
piece of metal strapping, 8 inches (200 mm) long with 1/4-inch (6 mm) 
holes every inch. A 1/4-inch (6 mm) bolt 1/2-inch (12 mm) long secured 
the bracket to the a convenient part of the frame. The other end of the 
strapping could then be moved to align a strapping hole with one of the 
loops in the oil cooler. Another bolt and nut secured it to the oil cooler.

5. Attach the Hoses

The hoses are the 1/2-inch (13mm) hose supplied with the kit. I cut them 
a little long to fit between the oil cooler and oil adapter. I used one 
worm-type hose clamp at each end. A year later my hoses blew off once 
again. Some Audifans suggested using 2 clamps at each end; it's cheap 

6. Test Your Work

If needed, re-fill the engine with the appropriate oil. Start the 
engine, let it run for 15-20 seconds, and shut it off. Then check the 
hoses and connections for signs of leaks.


It took me about 3 hours to remove and replace the oil cooler. Most of 
that time was spent looking at and thinking about the problem -- how 
much space there was, what would fit, how to connect things. If I were 
to do it again, it would take me about an hour.

The results: The oil temperature remains at the low end of the gauge, 
just as it had before I replace the oil cooler. And now I have a new oil 
cooler and hoses that can be replaced easily using readily available 
hose, at a price much less than just one Audi hose.

-- KentMcLean - 08 Jul 2003

Kent McLean
1999 A4 Avant, V6 Tiptronic
1990 200 Avant mit V8 conversion
gone: too many to count, including my first, "Bad Puppy"

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