B7 rear brake tool?
glenahan at vfemail.net
Mon Nov 28 16:29:17 PST 2011
Typically the rear rotors are lifetime - certainly they can survive at least 2 sets of pads. When i did mine (C5 S6 75k), the wear was only 0.5mm TOTAL (2mm limit = stupid tight).
One caveat - dont buy the "low dust" pads that use more of a chemical action between pad materials unless you do turn or replace the rotors - they can have poor interactions with foreign pad material.
To retract the pistons you will likely need a tool that applies pressure and turns the piston simultaneously. This can be bought as a complete kit from Harbor freight for < $30. On the newest e-parking brake cars you need vag-com to signal it to retract.
On Nov 28, 2011, at 5:46 PM, Henry A Harper III wrote:
> I've ordered some rear discs and pads for my 2005.5 A4q avant (2.0T manual)
> after politely refusing the dealer's offer to replace them for $400+. Never
> mind that I'm a little skeptical of the "need" for new discs because "they
> are too thin and can't be turned after going through a set of pads" - not a
> big fan of turning rotors in the first place. Ok, they are ordered anyway.
> There is a small lip on the rear discs indicating some surface wear so not
> completely bogus. Didn't need to replace rear pads on my GTI or 200q in 15
> years or so...this car only has 70k on it, must be some good rear brake
> Not having seen the pad-free calipers yet, and wishing to avoid a delay of
> car-less-ness while it's up on stands: what sort of tool will I need to turn
> the rear cylinders back in when replacing pads? Is it a square drive of some
> sort, pin spanner, Torx?
> I don't have a service manual for this car yet because it's been over a year
> that I've had it and the only thing I've had to do is take apart the hatch
> to figure out why the squirter wasn't working (something jammed in the
> nozzle), and replace some DRL bulbs. I even let the dealer do the oil
> changes (2 now, with courtesy inspection to protect my vehicular
> Henry Harper
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