<P> THis is a VERY late post. Sorry,</P>
<P> But I have never had a problem with my Method. Or rather, After using this method. ANd've I've had some VERY stubbgorn ones. Probably done a total of 5 cars with this method. </P>
<P> I use what is basically a hub puller. It has two claws that grab the Tie rod arm and then the threaded screw that sits on the nut side of Tie rod end. Take off nut, screw it down and when its REALLY tight pop the arm with a real hammer. The shock will break it loose. Or if it doesnt, tighten it some more and tap again. Keep going like this. I've never ruined a set of thereads (except Before I used this tool) and It works every time. </P>
<P> Then, once the tie rod end is off, take out the entire Tie Rod and put it in a vise. soak with penatrant and use muscle to break loose the nuts. YOu will likely have a hell of a time getting them off so what I do is unscrew the center portion of the tie rod off the two ends. Then use a Die to clean up the well corroded threads. Then remove nut and replace with a nice new stainless Jam Nut. then reassemble wiht some anti-sieze. IF your end was in good shape then your good to go wihtout spending $100 x 2 on new tie rods. And you alignment shop will LOVE you and be able to do a proper alignment. I take cars to a friend that works at a shop so I always do this ont he 4kq's so it makes his job easy. ITs almost impossible to align the back if those tie rods have been on for a while.</P>
<P> l8r</P>
<P> Todd<BR></P>
<P> <B><I>Suffolk <suffolk@erols.com></I></B> wrote: <BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subject: Re: Need advice on breaking free rear 4kq tierods and ball joints<BR>Date: Tue, 19 Sep 2000 08:09:17 -0400<BR><BR>If you have air tools the Home Depot sells a ~ Campbell Hausefield air<BR>chisel for ~$30 and there are 5 chisels in a set, for ~$ 12. Those that<BR>don't come out with liquid penetrant and the sledge (on the nut covering the<BR>end of the treads) get the magic air chisel. As you look at the treads<BR>sticking thru the hub assembly (conical "V" Shape), place a nut and thread<BR>down until flush with the end of the treaded shaft ( to keep the threads in<BR>tact and help keep the chisel point ( use the round pointed one) from<BR>slipping off the end of the threaded stud as you squeeze the trigger and<BR>BRUp,brup,brup the whole thing loose. It will only go to the nut (broken<BR>free) so you'll have to socket off the nut to pull the assembly free. BUT<BR>if you did alot of chisel point walking to the nut at the contact point with<BR>the treads you may now need a nut splitter to take off the nut. I'll<BR>be doing that this week or so.<BR>-Scott BOSTON just some input.<BR><BR>Had a similar problem with my 86 4kcsq as well. I was able to get the rear<BR>tie rod ends loose with a torch, and a large hammer. They were not reusable<BR>when I was done though. The ball joint on the drivers side was nearly<BR>impossible to remove. What I ended up doing was pulling the ball joint<BR>seat(not sure what it is called)out from the control arm, and removing it<BR>and the strut assembly as one piece. I then went down to the workshop, and<BR>tried to remove it with a torch. Couldn't get it. Then I tried a torch,<BR>and a large sledge. Still couldn't get it. Eventually, I took the bolts<BR>off of the joint, where it seats into the bottom of the strut assy, and<BR>cut/pried the joint out, so I just had the ball joint and seat as a piece.<BR>Then the drill press got the ball joint out. Took me a total of 3.5 hours<BR>for that side. Funny enough, the passenger side ball joint popped right out<BR>with a little heat and a tap from the hammer, and I was able to use the<BR>appropriate tool to get the joint out of the strut assembly. That side took<BR>much less time. Wasn't a very elegant way to fix it, but it worked, and<BR>the rear suspension is much tighter. The guy at the alignment shop was<BR>appreciative. I dropped off the car, and he rolled his eyes and started<BR>cussing under his breath. When I went back to pick it up though, he was<BR>smiling, and said "that was the easiest alignment I've ever done on one of<BR>those damn cars". I guess it helps when every component on the suspension<BR>has just been replaced. :)<BR>Sorry for my ramble, and good luck with yours.<BR><BR>groa@Cinergy.com><BR>To: "'quattro@audifans.com'" <QUATTRO@AUDIFANS.COM>,<BR>"'mrobinso@CH2M.com'"<BR><MROBINSO@CH2M.COM<BR><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>Quattro mailing list Quattro@audifans.com<BR>To remove yourself, change to digest mode, or temporarily stop delivery<BR>please visit the web interface at<BR>http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/quattro</BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Todd Phenneger<br> 83' ur-q (awaiting a 20vt)<br> 84' 4ktq fun but I'm sick of CIS.<p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
<a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/">Yahoo! Photos</a> - 35mm Quality Prints, Now Get 15 Free!