[s-cars] RE: CV joint boots

Theodore Chen tedebearp at yahoo.com
Mon Nov 10 02:35:59 EST 2003

--- Bob Rossato <bob.rossato at att.net> wrote:
> > Teddy,
> >
> > I had to do the LHS (passenger's in the UK) a couple of months ago, and I
> > followed the advice on the list that you do NOT need to disconnect the
> > Anti-Roll Bar (sway bar) to get the CV joint out of the hub.
> >
> > It was true, but required a LOT of effort, and was even more difficult on
> > reassembly.  The problem is, that after disconnecting the inner joint from
> > the transmission flange, there is no free space in the engine bay to
> > withdraw the shaft into so that you can pull the outer joint from
> > the hub -
> > you're about 5mm short.  If you're very strong and don't mind
> > removing a bit
> > of skin from your knuckles, you can do it.
> Turning the wheels to full lock will also make it easier as the CV joint
> comes out at an angle and therefore the driveshaft doesn't have to be pushed
> back as much.

ok, you guys are making me slightly apprehensive about this job.  i
know how to work on cars, but most of my wrenching experience is with
a RWD mustang.  no axleshafts with CV joints in them.  i don't want to
turn this into a gigantic pain in the butt.  if i've understood all the
discussion correctly, i can do this job without having to disassemble
the front suspension - don't have to remove the hub, and don't have to
disconnect the antiroll bar.  right?

but it sounds like i need to remove the inner joint from the transmission
flange, so i can take the whole axleshaft assembly out and work on it
on the workbench.  the tool i need to remove this assembly is the
triple square bit, which somebody said i could acquire from lisle.
can somebody take a look at this lisle catalog:
and tell me which tool it is?

should i replace the inner CV joint boot while i'm at it?  it looks
ok right now.


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