[s-cars] Right angle drill I could borrow (CT area)?
mswanson at sonitrol.net
Thu Jul 15 08:26:11 EDT 2004
> I feel your pain, I worried that this might happen to me, but I was
I think I was more 'gleefully ignorant', since I found it so easy to
remove the studs on the used 7A head I bought. still, they do seem to
come out easier than 10v studs.. I just got VERY unlucky..
> This happened to another lister and he ended up flat bedding the car to
> a mechanic, who used a right angle drill and a reverse drill bit (turns
> counter-clockwise) to remove the broken stud. As the drill bites into
> the stud, it removes it at the same time and you might not need a
Hrmm, I was thinking about that last night. I'll see if the local
fastener place has any of those in stock on my lunch break.
> I would use a center punch and heavy hammer and make a dimple
> in the stud so the drill gets started in the center.
Therein lies part of the problem.. I made a real mess of the stud in my
feeble attempts at removing it with standard extractors. I should be
able to get a straight shot on it with the jig I made.. just need the
right tools to get in there!
> When you mean shoulders on the studs, you mean shank right? The studs
> should have a shank about 10 mm long with a 10 mm thread on one end and
> about 17 mm thread on the other. The 27 mm length is measured from the
> end of the shank.
Huh, guess I got the wrong parts then! Not a big deal since I can just
modify a few of the full length studs but I thought I was buying the
right parts based on the listing on s-cars.org, which shows PN N... (net
down, fill in here..)
Is there a correct part number for these or are you just supposed to cut
the stock ones? I wish that was all I had to worry about on this
95.5 //S6 Avant
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