[s-cars] Replacing a CV joint
quattro20v at telus.net
Thu Aug 3 13:15:31 EDT 2006
Good write-up Bob, a few other tips for Chuck:
1. when tightening/loosening the large axle bolt, make sure the car is
on the ground and use a large breaker bar, with a cheater pipe. A 3/4
drive 27 mm socket work well here. The tightening torque is 148 ft-lbs
plus a 1/4 turn.
2. Another way to get the outer CV joint off is to use an old axle bolt
and thread it all the way in the end, when it bottoms out, keep turning
and the joint will pop off. This is for the front outer only, the rear
outer has a hidden circlip that must be removed before.
3. The original inner CV bolts are 10 mm XZN (triple square), but some
of the replacement one can be 12 mm. Tighten these to 59 ft-lbs.
4. Pay attention to the orientation and locations of the circlip, dished
washer and thrust washer. Put the new ones on and drive the joint back
on with a soft, deadblow mallet.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Robert Rossato
> Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 9:46 AM
> To: Charles Rose; s-car-list at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Replacing a CV joint
> Which CV joint? Inner, or outer?
> In either case it starts with removing the axle from the car.
> You'll need a 27mm socket to loosen the axle nut holding the
> outer joint to the hub. The inner CV joint is held to the
> transmission flange via 6 triple square bolts. The size bit
> you need for those is a 10mm triple sq. Do not attempt to
> loosen these bolts unless you fully seat the driver into the
> bolt head. They're easy to strip if you're not careful.
> This is really more of a problem with the smaller 8mm triple
> squares but it doesn't hurt to be careful with the 10's as well.
> Clean out the bolt head with a paper clip to dislodge and
> dirt that's in there and give the bolt head a quick spray of
> brake clean or similar to blow everything out. Use and
> extension on the end of the triple square driver and lightly
> tap it in to the bolt head with a hammer to fully engage it.
> Then put your ratchet on to loosen it. Always keep pressure
> on the driver as you don't want it to back out or you'll
> strip the head.
> You'll either want to have somebody stepping on the brakes as
> you loosen the bolts, or if you're alone, install a couple of
> lug bolts in the flange (I'm assuming you've taken the wheel
> off) and use a long bar between the lug bolts with the end
> resting on the floor. This will lock the axle from turning.
> You'll figure it out.
> Before you remove the inner CV joint from the flange clean
> off the area of as much grime and dirt as possible. Spray it
> all down with Simple Green and wipe it clean. You want to
> avoid getting any dirt in the CV joint. Have a bag ready to
> cover the end of the joint when you pop it off the flange.
> Cleanliness is key with CV joints. Though if this is the one
> you need to replace then you won't have to worry about
> cleaning things off until you go to reinstall.
> Once you remove the inner CV joint from the flange then you
> can pop out the outer CV from the hub. You'll have to turn
> the wheel all the way to one side to give you additional room.
> Now that the axle is out place it in a vise. Cut the clamps
> off for which ever CV you're replacing. The outer one I've
> always knocked off by hitting it with a rubber or rawhide
> mallet on the inside face. The inner one requires that you
> remove a circlip at the end of the shaft before you can
> remove it. May have to press down on the CV slightly to
> allow you to remove the circlip.
> Installation is reverse of removal. The new outer joints
> will probably come with a new axle bolt, though it will most
> likely need a 17mm hex driver to install it instead of the
> 27mm socket needed for the original. The inner CV will also
> come with new bolts, though again, they may be a hex drive.
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
> From: "Charles Rose" <everett2487 at adelphia.net>
> > Hey guys,
> > I noticed my boot was ripped about a week ago and the cv
> joint started
> > making a knocking sound before I received the replacement boot I
> > bought so it looks like I will be replacing the entire joint. I
> > should be receiving it today and I was wondering if someone
> could give
> > me an outline of the steps to replace the cv joint. I have
> never done
> > a cv job before and I don't have a service manual, I know,
> I know I'm
> > going to get one soon. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am
> > driving to school in about a week, Maine to Virginia, and
> need to get
> > this taken care of immediately.
> > Thanks,
> > Chuck
> > 1993 S4
> > _______________________________________________
> > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-car-list
> S-CAR-List mailing list
> S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-> car-list
More information about the S-CAR-List